Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:18 AM - welding broken powder coated parts (Michael D Cuy)
2. 06:10 AM - Re: Placed plans order...waiting. (Greg Cardinal)
3. 10:00 AM - cutting 4130 (baileys)
4. 10:28 AM - Re: cutting 4130 (DJ Vegh)
5. 10:31 AM - Re: Hardware ()
6. 01:26 PM - Re: Hardware (Christian Bobka)
7. 02:28 PM - Re: cutting 4130 (dpilot)
8. 02:40 PM - Re: cutting 4130 (Jim Ash)
9. 03:41 PM - Re: welding broken powder coated parts (Steve Eldredge)
10. 03:48 PM - Re: cutting 4130 ()
11. 03:52 PM - Re: Hardware ()
12. 07:24 PM - Re: cutting 4130 (Brants)
13. 07:46 PM - Re: welding broken powder coated parts (Waytogopiet@aol.com)
14. 08:23 PM - Movie--"Red Betsy" (rhartwig11@juno.com)
15. 08:31 PM - Re: cutting 4130 (Alex Sloan)
16. 08:42 PM - Re: Pacific Scientific T5 cable tensiometer (Cy Galley)
17. 09:24 PM - red betsy (Christian Bobka)
18. 11:02 PM - Re: Pacific Scientific T5 cable tensiometer (DJ Vegh)
19. 11:42 PM - Re: cutting 4130 (Jim Ash)
Message 1
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| Subject: | welding broken powder coated parts |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Learned something I don't like about powder coated parts. I repaired a
part from a lawn mower for a friend the other day by welding it where it
had broken in two pieces. Normally, I just bead blast around the area to
be welded and the paint comes right off. Not this time. The part was
powder coated and I had to grind, wire wheel, file, and curse the coating
off. When I did try to TIG weld it, I had to file the paint off so the
part would make the 'circuit' ground to the vise ! The toxic fumes
generated from the adjacent powder coating smelled like it could kill you
in a few tries----luckily the ventilation was good tho. It was no
fun. I'll stick to regular paint I think unless I am really certain that
a part won't ever have to see a repair.
Mike C.
PS--- otherwise.........powder coatings are really a neat thing.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Placed plans order...waiting. |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Greg Cardinal" <gcardinal@startribune.com>
Gary,
First words of advice for you are WELD, DON'T BRAZE...........
Greg Cardinal in Minneapolis
>>> g.colwill3@verizon.net 08/07/03 11:07PM >>>
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gary M. Colwill"
<g.colwill3@verizon.net>
I WAS interested in gyroplanes, til I stumbled across the Pietenpol
Aircamper on the Internet. That was a month ago.
...placed my order yesterday for the aircamper plans and the builder's
manual on the Pietenpol family website. Figured it would be here by
now...
Should have this thing whipped together in a week or two (hundred).
I'm also looking forward to Mike Cuy's video. I'll probably be hanging
aroud here alot, too, since the most I've ever done with wood before is
replacing the slats on my fence. Hopefully your collective knowledge
and
my patience (see above for example) and willingness to "redo" will
compensate for my lack of experience. I'm looking forward to this new
journey.
Gary M. Colwill
Do not archive
Message 3
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
There is been recent discussion about not brazing 4130. This brings up some
more questions. How about cutting? Is a plazma cutter acceptable?
How about milling? Should 4130 be annealed after being worked? Is there a
book related to aircraft metal working practices available. Sorry for asking
such simplistic questions but you gotta start somewhere.
Thanks,
Bob B. - Missouri
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: cutting 4130 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
I would think the next best thing to lasercutting would be plasma cutting.
There has been discussion before about filing the hardened edge created after lasercutting
as it is prone to cracking and I would assume the same would be done
for plasma cutting.
I also hear it's a good idea to re-normalize the parts after cutting. As I recall
that is done by baking them at 500 degrees for 24 hours.
DJ Vegh
----- Original Message -----
From: baileys
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 08, 2003 9:59 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cutting 4130
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
There is been recent discussion about not brazing 4130. This brings up some
more questions. How about cutting? Is a plazma cutter acceptable?
How about milling? Should 4130 be annealed after being worked? Is there a
book related to aircraft metal working practices available. Sorry for asking
such simplistic questions but you gotta start somewhere.
Thanks,
Bob B. - Missouri
=
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Message 5
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
Walt,
I do have their catalog it's a great source of information. In fact, I
have one at home and one at work because you never know when you will need to
look something up. The reason I ask is, the catalog says clevis pins "are
used with clevis forks and in secondary controls which are not subject to
continuous operation". I don't have any idea what clevis forks are used for and
as I see it all controls on a Piet are primary, well that is unless you have
hook for towing gliders like John Dilatush's Subaru powered Pietenpol. I'm
finding deciding on what hardware to use to be one of the more perplexing
things about building.
Thanks to all who have responded. I guess I will use clevis pins with a washer
and cotter pin.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
Quoting w b evans <wbeevans@verizon.net>:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "w b evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
>
> Chris,
> Don't know if you have the Aircraft Spruce catalog or not , but it has all
> that little data, with charts and graphs. If you go onto their site and
> follow the links for a free catalog, you get a fresh new one. No strings.
> I've gotten more than one and some for all my friends .
> http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.php
> matter of fact, the catalog prompt is on this page.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <catdesign@intergate.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Hardware
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
> >
> > Can anyone tell me why there are copper Nicopress sleeves and zinc plated
> > Nicopress sleeves? Are they for specific applications? If so, what are
> they?
> > I think I heard about stainless steel cable needing a different type of
> sleeve.
> > Is this what the zinc ones are for?
> > Some where (I think it was in AC43-13) I also read a vague reference that
> left
> > me thinking certain sizes of Nicopress sleeves do not use/need the 3
> compressed
> > sections. Is this true?
> >
> > Also what type of bolt/pin do you use in shackles (AN115-21) and the fork
> end
> > (AN161) of a turnbuckle. Are there special pins or do you just use a
> bolt? Do
> > shackles come with a pin/bolt or do I have to order them separately?
> >
> > Figure I would bite the bullet and buy the stuff now, even though I dont
> need
> > it. I doubt that in the future the prices will be going down so it makes
> sound
> > financial sense to buy now not later (well thats the excuse I am using but
> in
> > reality I just want to buy them to have around when I need them in the way
> far
> > off distant future). I wish my body could build as fast as my mind can.
> At
> > that rate, Id of built three or four planes by now, mistake free of
> course.
> > One nice thing about building so slow is your airplane building fund can
> grow
> > into a nice little sum of money. Almost enough to buy 35
> turnbuckles..now
> > that is depressing.
> >
> > Chris
> > Sacramento, CA
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------
Message 6
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka" <bobka@compuserve.com>
Chris (SMF),
If you are using the shackles in the primary controls, then it is
appropriate to use a clevis bolt and a castelated shear nut with cotter key.
Clevis bolts are AN 23 to 27
Shear Nut AN 320
Ok to use clevis pins AN 392 to 396 for your bracing cables in the wings and
for the LG etc.
Chris Bobka
A & P IA
----- Original Message -----
From: <catdesign@intergate.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Hardware
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
>
> Walt,
>
> I do have their catalog it's a great source of information. In fact, I
> have one at home and one at work because you never know when you will need
to
> look something up. The reason I ask is, the catalog says clevis pins "are
> used with clevis forks and in secondary controls which are not subject to
> continuous operation". I don't have any idea what clevis forks are used
for and
> as I see it all controls on a Piet are primary, well that is unless you
have
> hook for towing gliders like John Dilatush's Subaru powered Pietenpol. I'm
> finding deciding on what hardware to use to be one of the more perplexing
> things about building.
>
> Thanks to all who have responded. I guess I will use clevis pins with a
washer
> and cotter pin.
>
> Chris
> Sacramento, CA
>
> Quoting w b evans <wbeevans@verizon.net>:
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "w b evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
> >
> > Chris,
> > Don't know if you have the Aircraft Spruce catalog or not , but it has
all
> > that little data, with charts and graphs. If you go onto their site and
> > follow the links for a free catalog, you get a fresh new one. No
strings.
> > I've gotten more than one and some for all my friends .
> > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.php
> > matter of fact, the catalog prompt is on this page.
> > walt evans
> > NX140DL
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <catdesign@intergate.com>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Hardware
> >
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
> > >
> > > Can anyone tell me why there are copper Nicopress sleeves and zinc
plated
> > > Nicopress sleeves? Are they for specific applications? If so, what
are
> > they?
> > > I think I heard about stainless steel cable needing a different type
of
> > sleeve.
> > > Is this what the zinc ones are for?
> > > Some where (I think it was in AC43-13) I also read a vague reference
that
> > left
> > > me thinking certain sizes of Nicopress sleeves do not use/need the 3
> > compressed
> > > sections. Is this true?
> > >
> > > Also what type of bolt/pin do you use in shackles (AN115-21) and the
fork
> > end
> > > (AN161) of a turnbuckle. Are there special pins or do you just use a
> > bolt? Do
> > > shackles come with a pin/bolt or do I have to order them separately?
> > >
> > > Figure I would bite the bullet and buy the stuff now, even though I
dont
> > need
> > > it. I doubt that in the future the prices will be going down so it
makes
> > sound
> > > financial sense to buy now not later (well thats the excuse I am using
but
> > in
> > > reality I just want to buy them to have around when I need them in the
way
> > far
> > > off distant future). I wish my body could build as fast as my mind
can.
> > At
> > > that rate, Id of built three or four planes by now, mistake free of
> > course.
> > > One nice thing about building so slow is your airplane building fund
can
> > grow
> > > into a nice little sum of money. Almost enough to buy 35
> > turnbuckles..now
> > > that is depressing.
> > >
> > > Chris
> > > Sacramento, CA
> > >
> > >
> > > -------------------------------------------------
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> -------------------------------------------------
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cutting 4130 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: dpilot <dpilot@yahoo.com>
Whats wrong with a hacksaw and 1020 steel?
JimV.
DJ Vegh <aircamper@imagedv.com> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh"
I would think the next best thing to lasercutting would be plasma cutting.
There has been discussion before about filing the hardened edge created after lasercutting
as it is prone to cracking and I would assume the same would be done
for plasma cutting.
I also hear it's a good idea to re-normalize the parts after cutting. As I recall
that is done by baking them at 500 degrees for 24 hours.
DJ Vegh
----- Original Message -----
From: baileys
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cutting 4130
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys"
There is been recent discussion about not brazing 4130. This brings up some
more questions. How about cutting? Is a plazma cutter acceptable?
How about milling? Should 4130 be annealed after being worked? Is there a
book related to aircraft metal working practices available. Sorry for asking
such simplistic questions but you gotta start somewhere.
Thanks,
Bob B. - Missouri
=
This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by Half
Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more information
on an anti-virus email solution, visit .
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: cutting 4130 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
Those joint-jigger things just use a hole saw. I've also seen people mill
it, but they had a mill and not the joint-jigger.
AC 43.13 "Acceptable Methods, Techniques and Practices" has sections about
working with tubing, but also a bunch of other stuff you'll be using
building a Piet. You can learn about acceptable joints there. This should
be required reading for any airplane builder.
Speaking of, AC 43.13 is the successor to the CAM 18, which was the book
under the CAA. Does anybody know where I can get a copy?
Jim Ash
At 8/8/2003 11:59 AM -0500, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
>
>There is been recent discussion about not brazing 4130. This brings up some
>more questions. How about cutting? Is a plazma cutter acceptable?
>How about milling? Should 4130 be annealed after being worked? Is there a
>book related to aircraft metal working practices available. Sorry for asking
>such simplistic questions but you gotta start somewhere.
>Thanks,
>Bob B. - Missouri
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | welding broken powder coated parts |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Steve Eldredge" <steve@byu.edu>
I've had his problem as well and debate with myself every time it comes
to coating steel. Recently I've been painting with epoxy primer. On
the powder coated stuff, sandblasting as you know will take a long time
to dissipate the powder coat. The times I have done it I burn the
powder coat off with my welding torch and then sand blast the remaining
scale off. I avoid this when I can.....
Steve e.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
D Cuy
Subject: Pietenpol-List: welding broken powder coated parts
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
<Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Learned something I don't like about powder coated parts. I repaired a
part from a lawn mower for a friend the other day by welding it where it
had broken in two pieces. Normally, I just bead blast around the area
to
be welded and the paint comes right off. Not this time. The part was
powder coated and I had to grind, wire wheel, file, and curse the
coating
off. When I did try to TIG weld it, I had to file the paint off so the
part would make the 'circuit' ground to the vise ! The toxic fumes
generated from the adjacent powder coating smelled like it could kill
you
in a few tries----luckily the ventilation was good tho. It was no
fun. I'll stick to regular paint I think unless I am really certain
that
a part won't ever have to see a repair.
Mike C.
PS--- otherwise.........powder coatings are really a neat thing.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: cutting 4130 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
I have cut all my fittings out, so far, by hand with a hack saw. It really
isn't that hard and it is not as slow as you would think. I just cut outside
the
line grind on a grinder then sand on my belt sander to the line. Follow up
with some 200 grit sand paper to take out the scratches. You do need to watch
out for over heating the steel while you are grinding.
As long as the part was designed for 1020 steel nothing wrong with it either.
I use 4130 because it was the only stuff I could get at the time. I gas weld
the 4130 as well but I sure wish I had a fancy TIG welder some times.
Chris
Sacramento, CA
Quoting dpilot <dpilot@yahoo.com>:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: dpilot <dpilot@yahoo.com>
>
> Whats wrong with a hacksaw and 1020 steel?
> JimV.
>
> DJ Vegh <aircamper@imagedv.com> wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh"
>
> I would think the next best thing to lasercutting would be plasma cutting.
>
> There has been discussion before about filing the hardened edge created after
> lasercutting as it is prone to cracking and I would assume the same would be
> done for plasma cutting.
>
> I also hear it's a good idea to re-normalize the parts after cutting. As I
> recall that is done by baking them at 500 degrees for 24 hours.
>
> DJ Vegh
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: baileys
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: cutting 4130
>
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys"
>
> There is been recent discussion about not brazing 4130. This brings up some
> more questions. How about cutting? Is a plazma cutter acceptable?
> How about milling? Should 4130 be annealed after being worked? Is there a
> book related to aircraft metal working practices available. Sorry for asking
> such simplistic questions but you gotta start somewhere.
> Thanks,
> Bob B. - Missouri
>
>
> > This email has been scanned for known viruses and made safe for viewing by
> Half Price Hosting, a leading email and web hosting provider. For more
> information on an anti-virus email solution, visit .
>
>
> ---------------------------------
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------
Message 11
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|
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
HaaHa, I see them listed in the catalog. Makes sense now.
Thanks Chris
Chris
Sacramento, CA
Do not archive
Quoting Christian Bobka <bobka@compuserve.com>:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka"
> <bobka@compuserve.com>
>
> Chris (SMF),
>
> If you are using the shackles in the primary controls, then it is
> appropriate to use a clevis bolt and a castelated shear nut with cotter key.
>
> Clevis bolts are AN 23 to 27
> Shear Nut AN 320
>
> Ok to use clevis pins AN 392 to 396 for your bracing cables in the wings and
> for the LG etc.
>
> Chris Bobka
> A & P IA
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <catdesign@intergate.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Hardware
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
> >
> > Walt,
> >
> > I do have their catalog it's a great source of information. In fact, I
> > have one at home and one at work because you never know when you will need
> to
> > look something up. The reason I ask is, the catalog says clevis pins "are
> > used with clevis forks and in secondary controls which are not subject to
> > continuous operation". I don't have any idea what clevis forks are used
> for and
> > as I see it all controls on a Piet are primary, well that is unless you
> have
> > hook for towing gliders like John Dilatush's Subaru powered Pietenpol. I'm
> > finding deciding on what hardware to use to be one of the more perplexing
> > things about building.
> >
> > Thanks to all who have responded. I guess I will use clevis pins with a
> washer
> > and cotter pin.
> >
> > Chris
> > Sacramento, CA
> >
> > Quoting w b evans <wbeevans@verizon.net>:
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "w b evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
> > >
> > > Chris,
> > > Don't know if you have the Aircraft Spruce catalog or not , but it has
> all
> > > that little data, with charts and graphs. If you go onto their site and
> > > follow the links for a free catalog, you get a fresh new one. No
> strings.
> > > I've gotten more than one and some for all my friends .
> > > http://www.aircraftspruce.com/index.php
> > > matter of fact, the catalog prompt is on this page.
> > > walt evans
> > > NX140DL
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <catdesign@intergate.com>
> > > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Hardware
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "" <catdesign@intergate.com>
> > > >
> > > > Can anyone tell me why there are copper Nicopress sleeves and zinc
> plated
> > > > Nicopress sleeves? Are they for specific applications? If so, what
> are
> > > they?
> > > > I think I heard about stainless steel cable needing a different type
> of
> > > sleeve.
> > > > Is this what the zinc ones are for?
> > > > Some where (I think it was in AC43-13) I also read a vague reference
> that
> > > left
> > > > me thinking certain sizes of Nicopress sleeves do not use/need the 3
> > > compressed
> > > > sections. Is this true?
> > > >
> > > > Also what type of bolt/pin do you use in shackles (AN115-21) and the
> fork
> > > end
> > > > (AN161) of a turnbuckle. Are there special pins or do you just use a
> > > bolt? Do
> > > > shackles come with a pin/bolt or do I have to order them separately?
> > > >
> > > > Figure I would bite the bullet and buy the stuff now, even though I
> dont
> > > need
> > > > it. I doubt that in the future the prices will be going down so it
> makes
> > > sound
> > > > financial sense to buy now not later (well thats the excuse I am using
> but
> > > in
> > > > reality I just want to buy them to have around when I need them in the
> way
> > > far
> > > > off distant future). I wish my body could build as fast as my mind
> can.
> > > At
> > > > that rate, Id of built three or four planes by now, mistake free of
> > > course.
> > > > One nice thing about building so slow is your airplane building fund
> can
> > > grow
> > > > into a nice little sum of money. Almost enough to buy 35
> > > turnbuckles..now
> > > > that is depressing.
> > > >
> > > > Chris
> > > > Sacramento, CA
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > -------------------------------------------------
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > -------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-------------------------------------------------
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: cutting 4130 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Brants" <tmbrant@usfamily.net>
I've used a simple plumbers tubing cutter - gotta have a good one though.
This takes a bit more effort than cutting copper and you might go through a
few cutting wheels but it's a cheap and easy way to make straight cuts. A
motorized unit is better yet but spendy.
Tom B.
----- Original Message -----
From: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cutting 4130
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
>
> There is been recent discussion about not brazing 4130. This brings up
some
> more questions. How about cutting? Is a plazma cutter acceptable?
> How about milling? Should 4130 be annealed after being worked? Is there
a
> book related to aircraft metal working practices available. Sorry for
asking
> such simplistic questions but you gotta start somewhere.
> Thanks,
> Bob B. - Missouri
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: welding broken powder coated parts |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Waytogopiet@aol.com
In a message dated 8/8/2003 7:18:40 AM Central Standard Time,
Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov writes:
> I had to grind, wire wheel, file, and curse the coating
> off. When I did try to TIG weld it, I had to file the paint off so the
> part would make the 'circuit' ground to the vise ! The toxic fumes
> generated from the adjacent powder coating smelled like it could kill you
Mike...How about I send you a few of our local squirrels. They think the
powder coating on my patio furniture is absolutely delicious and have taken it
right down to bare metal !!! Don
Message 14
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| Subject: | Movie--"Red Betsy" |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
My wife and I went to see "Seabisquit" tonight (I know I should be
working on my Piet instead of going to movies.) When the previews
started for the coming attractions, the screen was suddenly filled with a
beautiful red Model A powered Pietenpol flying in a very blue sky. It
looked like Allen Rudolph's (I don't know who the present owner is.) The
movie is "Red Betsy" and the Piet obviously has the title role. Does
anyone know who's Piet is in this movie? As I am writing this I am
downloading the trailer to see if I can find out anything else about the
movie and/or plane.
Dick Hartwig
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: cutting 4130 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Bob B.
If you do not have Richard Finch's book on welding, I highly recommend it.
He was a welding inspector at atomic plants
Alex Sloan
----- Original Message -----
From: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cutting 4130
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
>
> There is been recent discussion about not brazing 4130. This brings up
some
> more questions. How about cutting? Is a plazma cutter acceptable?
> How about milling? Should 4130 be annealed after being worked? Is there
a
> book related to aircraft metal working practices available. Sorry for
asking
> such simplistic questions but you gotta start somewhere.
> Thanks,
> Bob B. - Missouri
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Pacific Scientific T5 cable tensiometer |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
They are not available any more as I understand. I have attached the
instruction sheet which I transcribed from the factory original.
Calibration is done by hanging a known weight on a cable and measuring to
see if the gage reads right. In the lid of the box is the conversion table.
I can scan and get a copy to you if you need.
Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
Editor, EAA Safety Programs
cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
----- Original Message -----
From: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pacific Scientific T5 cable tensiometer
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
>
> I picked up a used Pacific Scientific cable tensiometer on ebay for $100.
> These gor for like $800 new. It did not come with risers.
>
> I've never used one before and am wondering what number risers are used
for
> which size of cable.
>
> Also where can I send it for calibration and where would I buy the risers
> for it?
>
> Anyone have one of these?
>
> DJ Vegh
> N74DV
> Mesa, AZ
> www.imagedv.com/aircamper
>
>
> -
>
>
Message 17
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka" <bobka@compuserve.com>
Dick,
I just did a google search on redbetsy and the second item is the red betsy website.
It does appear to be Allen Rudolph's Piet and the move is shot in WI and
is about a family in Boscobel in the forties. It was shot in some town between
madison and Milwaukee. We will see...
Chris
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Pacific Scientific T5 cable tensiometer |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
actually..... they are now being produced by a company called
Optimanufacuring.
their site is
http://optimanufacturing.com/
they service and sell them.... I'll be sending mine in to them in a few
weeks.
DJ Vegh
N74DV
Mesa, AZ
www.imagedv.com/aircamper
-
----- Original Message -----
From: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Pacific Scientific T5 cable tensiometer
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" <cgalley@qcbc.org>
>
> They are not available any more as I understand. I have attached the
> instruction sheet which I transcribed from the factory original.
> Calibration is done by hanging a known weight on a cable and measuring to
> see if the gage reads right. In the lid of the box is the conversion
table.
> I can scan and get a copy to you if you need.
>
> Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh
> Editor, EAA Safety Programs
> cgalley@qcbc.org or experimenter@eaa.org
>
> Always looking for articles for the Experimenter
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Pacific Scientific T5 cable tensiometer
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <aircamper@imagedv.com>
> >
> > I picked up a used Pacific Scientific cable tensiometer on ebay for
$100.
> > These gor for like $800 new. It did not come with risers.
> >
> > I've never used one before and am wondering what number risers are used
> for
> > which size of cable.
> >
> > Also where can I send it for calibration and where would I buy the
risers
> > for it?
> >
> > Anyone have one of these?
> >
> > DJ Vegh
> > N74DV
> > Mesa, AZ
> > www.imagedv.com/aircamper
> >
> >
> > -
> >
> >
>
>
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: cutting 4130 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
Richard Finch was a welding inspector? Where'd you see that?
Jim Ash
At 8/8/2003 10:33 PM -0500, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
>
>Bob B.
>If you do not have Richard Finch's book on welding, I highly recommend it.
>He was a welding inspector at atomic plants
>Alex Sloan
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