Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:38 AM - Re: Wheels (Wizzard187@aol.com)
2. 06:43 AM - Re: walnut shells and airfoil talk (Robert Haines)
3. 07:07 AM - How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short fuse (Michael D Cuy)
4. 08:19 AM - Re: Wheels (Catdesign)
5. 09:30 AM - Landing Gear compression springs (Isablcorky@aol.com)
6. 09:44 AM - Landing gear comparisons (Bill Church)
7. 09:52 AM - Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short (jimboyer@direcway.com)
8. 11:26 AM - Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in (Michael D Cuy)
9. 02:51 PM - Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short fuse Pietenpol (Graham Hansen)
10. 03:16 PM - Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short fuse Pietenpol (Christian Bobka)
11. 04:38 PM - Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a (jimboyer@direcway.com)
12. 04:46 PM - Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short (jimboyer@direcway.com)
13. 06:46 PM - Re: (no subject) (Alex Sloan)
14. 07:06 PM - Re: "Hearty individuals" and cold weather open cockpit flying. (Alex Sloan)
15. 07:54 PM - Re: Wheels (dpaul)
16. 08:20 PM - Info List update (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
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Pieters,
I have been building a piet for about 4 years and started the project
with the idea of using things I have collected over the years. I built axles
like cessna's (1&1/2 by 5 and1/2 to fit goodyear 600 x 6 wheels.Then I wanted
motorcycle wheels so bought two 18 inch rear wheels for $25.00. I bought 7
and 5/8 spokes from JP motorcycle parts in Anamosa, Ia for $80.00. I built
hubs and bushing and rebuilt cleveland brake disk and have only about 4 inches
of space between spokes at the hub because of the length of axles. Here are
my weights. tires-3.5 xby 18 used 11 lbs, hub 2, brake disk 2, rim (steel)
6, bushings and spokes 2, and calipers 2 . This adds up to 25 lbs per wheel or
50 lbs. The goodyear assembly weighs 18 pounds or 36 for both,so I have
added 14 pounds for the motorcycle wheels and have lifted the axles about 4 and
1/2 inches. If I don't like them I can go back to the goodyears. I sure
makes it look like a bigger airplane and I can use a long prop. Having fun in
cold deep Iowa.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: walnut shells and airfoil talk |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Robert Haines" <robertsjunk@hotmail.com>
To the contrary, baking soda sounds like a very nice mild abrasive (although
I have no experience with it's cutting action), my concern was that it would
chemical react with the aluminum like an oven cleaner would and that's why I
would be against using those materials. Also, I have reservation using a
wire brush as well. I must have reread my post three times here to make
sure I didn't phrase something incorrectly, I thought I was pretty clear.
Robert
> Time: 11:33:08 AM PST US
> From: "Christian Bobka" <bobka@compuserve.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: walnut shells and airfoil talk
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka"
<bobka@compuserve.com>
>
> Robert,
>
> You are concerned with the safety of using baking soda as an abrasive but
> yet you are willing to use OVEN CLEANER and a WIRE BRUSH to clean the
> aluminum.
>
> I learned in A & P school that one should never use a wire brush or spun
> wool (unless it is an aluminum wire brush or spun wool) on aluminum as it
> will embed tiny particles of iron (or brass in the case of using a brass
> brush) in the aluminum which will then be the seed for dissimilar metals
> corrosion.
>
> On the other topic, I can drink baking soda but yet would find it
> uncomfortable to drink oven cleaner!
>
> Baking soda is so mild an abrasive that it will not take anodizing off of
> aluminum. As the anodizing is an oxide coating, I doubt the baking soda
> would remove the natural aluminim oxide that would form on the aluminum
> after it is manufactured. Besides, we normally etch the aluminum with
> phosphoric acid and then pickle it with chromic acid to form a "uniform
> layer of corrosion (read as protective oxide layer)" to protect the
> aluminum.
>
> Chris Bobka
>
Message 3
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Pietenpol
| Subject: | How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short fuse |
Pietenpol
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Chuck-- I simply went to Wal Mart (my favorite store) and bought white
poster board. Actually for the fuel tank I used brown cardboard. I made
a mock up tank that is rectangular but has the same shape on top as our
cockpit/instrument panel aluminum cover pieces. The bottom I made slanted
toward the front so that even in a climb, the fuel would want to go forward
and sit in the drain/sump area. This slant also helps passengers get there
feet on the front rudder pedals should I invite them to fly. I have not
learned to weld aluminum yet and did not want to use fiberglass so I took
my cardboard mockup to a welding shop, alum. filler neck flange, and
threaded aluminum drain fitting (all obtained from Wicks) and they made up
the tank. To use a pre-made Cub tank or such does not utilize the space up
front as well as a custom made-to-fit tank does in a Piet. As far as CG
shifts are concerned, the Pietenpol is notoriously tail-heavy with air
cooled engines so a large, full nose tank is very advantageous to those of
us who are not skinny. The CG shift is only felt really when you go long
cross country and only affects the last 45 minutes or so of flight. So I
hold a little nose-down pressure. If I lost 30 lbs. I would have no nose
pressure to even hold then.
Mike C.
Message 4
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Dave:
Got a picture? If so please remember to make the file size small for us dial-up
users.. What bike are they off of? It's had to tell without seeing them. I think
someone else is using the back wheels off a motorcycle as well.
The usual way to build them is a 5 1/2 spacing between spoke flanges so 5" seems
wide enough (If close enough is ok). It's wider then some of the other wheels
people have used. The big question is can you get a large enough axel in them.
Smallest axels I know of are 1" for split gear and 1 1/4 on the strait axel.
Also look at how the casting was designed, your looking for high stress areas
during side loads that might crack a flange or something. Are you planning
on using heavier (thicker) spokes? Will they fit? Finally are YOU satisfied
they will work? If it all looks good to you then give them a try (If they
are not to expensive).
Chris T.
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: dpaul
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 7:15 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wheels
Hello,
I found some motorcycle wheels but didn't want to purchase them with consulting
with the list. They are 18" rear wheels from dirt bikes that measure
about 24" with the tires on. The hubs are 5" wide which makes me think that I
could get away without having to create new 5 1/2 or 6" hubs. They have brake
drums but I'm not sure whether or not I could utilize them. I don't recall
seeing any Piets at Brodhead with this type of wheel or brake system. Opinions
would be appreciated.
Dave Paulsen - Missouri
Message 5
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| Subject: | Landing Gear compression springs |
Pieters,
Someone recently posted on this list a source for the landing gear
compression springs the size required for a Piet. Would that person please repeat
that
source. Thanks
Corky in Cold La
Message 6
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| Subject: | Landing gear comparisons |
A few questions regarding landing gear.
Aesthetics aside, what exactly are the known advantages/disadvantages of the
straight axle gear and the split axle gear? This could relate to ground
handling, drag, smoothness of landings...whatever.
Is there anyone out there that has flown both types? Which did you prefer
and why?
Is one style better suited to hard runways? Grass?
Does it make a large difference, performance-wise, when large, balloon
wheels (like on Ken Perkins' Piet, for example) are used, rather than the
smaller, Cub-size wheels many others have used?
I am sure these questions have been addressed in the past, but maybe there
are some opinions out there that have not been heard.
Bill
<!DOCTYPE HTML PUBLIC "-//W3C//DTD HTML 3.2//EN">
<META NAME"Generator" CONTENT"MS Exchange Server version 5.5.2448.0">
Landing gear comparisons
A few questions regarding landing gear.
Aesthetics aside, what exactly are the known advantages/disadvantages of the straight
axle gear and the split axle gear? This could relate to ground handling,
drag, smoothness of landings...whatever.
Is there anyone out there that has flown both types? Which did you prefer and why?
Is one style better suited to hard runways? Grass?
Does it make a large difference, performance-wise, when large, balloon wheels (like
on Ken Perkins' Piet, for example) are used, rather than the smaller, Cub-size
wheels many others have used?
I am sure these questions have been addressed in the past, but maybe there are
some opinions out there that have not been heard.
Bill
Message 7
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fuse Pietenpol
| Subject: | Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short |
fuse Pietenpol
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: jimboyer@direcway.com
HI Mike,
Does your aluminuim tank have flanges where one side meets another (where edges
meet and you have to make the weld)? I have mocked up my tank and bought the
5052 for it but haven't been able to find any information on how the edges
should meet for max strength.
Thanks, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short fuse
Pietenpol
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> Chuck-- I simply went to Wal Mart (my favorite store) and bought
> white
> poster board. Actually for the fuel tank I used brown cardboard.
> I made
> a mock up tank that is rectangular but has the same shape on top
> as our
> cockpit/instrument panel aluminum cover pieces. The bottom I
> made slanted
> toward the front so that even in a climb, the fuel would want to
> go forward
> and sit in the drain/sump area. This slant also helps passengers
> get there
> feet on the front rudder pedals should I invite them to fly. I
> have not
> learned to weld aluminum yet and did not want to use fiberglass so
> I took
> my cardboard mockup to a welding shop, alum. filler neck flange,
> and
> threaded aluminum drain fitting (all obtained from Wicks) and they
> made up
> the tank. To use a pre-made Cub tank or such does not utilize the
> space up
> front as well as a custom made-to-fit tank does in a Piet. As
> far as CG
> shifts are concerned, the Pietenpol is notoriously tail-heavy with
> air
> cooled engines so a large, full nose tank is very advantageous to
> those of
> us who are not skinny. The CG shift is only felt really when you
> go long
> cross country and only affects the last 45 minutes or so of
> flight. So I
> hold a little nose-down pressure. If I lost 30 lbs. I would have
> no nose
> pressure to even hold then.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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a shortfuse Pietenpol
| Subject: | Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in |
a shortfuse Pietenpol
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Jim-- the guy just edge welded my tank pieces with generous amounts of
alum. filler rod. There are no baffles in my tank either--makes it easier
to build. I just supported the bottom of the tank very well with two s/s
1" wide fuel tank straps that for a nice 'U' under the tank.
Mike
At 09:52 AM 2/4/2004 -0800, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: jimboyer@direcway.com
>
>HI Mike,
>
>Does your aluminuim tank have flanges where one side meets another (where
>edges
>meet and you have to make the weld)? I have mocked up my tank and bought the
>5052 for it but haven't been able to find any information on how the edges
>should meet for max strength.
>
>Thanks, Jim
>
>
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2004 7:06 am
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a
>short fuse Pietenpol
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> > <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> > Chuck-- I simply went to Wal Mart (my favorite store) and bought
> > white
> > poster board. Actually for the fuel tank I used brown cardboard.
> > I made
> > a mock up tank that is rectangular but has the same shape on top
> > as our
> > cockpit/instrument panel aluminum cover pieces. The bottom I
> > made slanted
> > toward the front so that even in a climb, the fuel would want to
> > go forward
> > and sit in the drain/sump area. This slant also helps passengers
> > get there
> > feet on the front rudder pedals should I invite them to fly. I
> > have not
> > learned to weld aluminum yet and did not want to use fiberglass so
> > I took
> > my cardboard mockup to a welding shop, alum. filler neck flange,
> > and
> > threaded aluminum drain fitting (all obtained from Wicks) and they
> > made up
> > the tank. To use a pre-made Cub tank or such does not utilize the
> > space up
> > front as well as a custom made-to-fit tank does in a Piet. As
> > far as CG
> > shifts are concerned, the Pietenpol is notoriously tail-heavy with
> > air
> > cooled engines so a large, full nose tank is very advantageous to
> > those of
> > us who are not skinny. The CG shift is only felt really when you
> > go long
> > cross country and only affects the last 45 minutes or so of
> > flight. So I
> > hold a little nose-down pressure. If I lost 30 lbs. I would have
> > no nose
> > pressure to even hold then.
> >
> > Mike C.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > ========================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short |
fuse Pietenpol
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Graham Hansen" <grhans@cable-lynx.net>
My Pietenpol was built from the 1933 plans drawn by Orrin Hoopman. The
fuselage was modified by extending the firewall six inches forward (BHP's
recommendation when using small Continentals, etc. instead of the Ford A)
and the width from the firewall back to the rear instrument panel was
increased by two inches. This allowed more space for the fuselage tank and I
could have easily made a tank holding at least 17 US gallons. The tank I
made holds about 15 US gal. and is adequate for the kind of flying I have
always done. As it is, the airplane's endurance exceeds mine, and I like to
limit each flight to about 1.5 hours because it isn't very
comfortable---even though I am about 5' 8" and about 175 lbs. I have always
used the wing center section as a storage space and have a small lockable
door on the underside, so 15 gallons is the total fuel capacity.
The original tank was made from 0.028" galvanized steel sheet with folded
and soft-soldered seams. I couldn't locate any terneplate so used galvanized
steel. It was heavier than an equivalent aluminum tank, but:
1. It was less costly because I could do the whole job myself with the
equipment I had at the time.
2. Repairs could be safely accomplished without using a flame (Never needed
repair).
3. The extra weight was tolerable since it was well forward.
4. It is durable.
This tank lasted for 30 years and I replaced it 3 years ago with an
identical new one.Years earlier I had used a sloshing sealer which began to
disintegrate, and bits floating around in the fuel scare me. I removed the
tank and had it steam cleaned, but the problem persisted. So I built a new
tank and won't even think of using sloshing sealer in it (I suspect auto
gasoline is somehow implicated, but have no proof).
Regarding trim change with fuel burn, my 85 hp Pietenpol is nose heavy with
the tank full, so I "trim" with the throttle using about 2350 to 2375 RPM in
cruise initially and gradually back off as the nose lightens up. However,
stick forces are so light that it isn't at all burdensome to cruise at any
RPM one chooses. The above procedure provides a "hands off" condition, but
only in smooth air. My Pietenpol has never been tail heavy in flight, even
with the A65 engine (I switched to a C85 after about 115 hours with an A65).
A friend built a nearly identical airplane from the same jigs and it
exhibits the typical Pietenpol tail heaviness in flight with an A65 engine.
We never found out why they were different in this respect. However, both
are quite nose heavy in a power-off glide, regardless of fuel quantity.
Altogether, I am content with the nose fuselage tank and don't hesitate to
recommend it for the same reasons Mike C. does.
Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN in Camrose, Alberta, Canada)
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short |
fuse Pietenpol
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka" <bobka@compuserve.com>
Have them meet at right angles.
Chris Bobka
----- Original Message -----
From: <jimboyer@direcway.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a
short fuse Pietenpol
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: jimboyer@direcway.com
>
> HI Mike,
>
> Does your aluminuim tank have flanges where one side meets another (where
edges
> meet and you have to make the weld)? I have mocked up my tank and bought
the
> 5052 for it but haven't been able to find any information on how the edges
> should meet for max strength.
>
> Thanks, Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2004 7:06 am
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a
short fuse Pietenpol
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> > <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> > Chuck-- I simply went to Wal Mart (my favorite store) and bought
> > white
> > poster board. Actually for the fuel tank I used brown cardboard.
> > I made
> > a mock up tank that is rectangular but has the same shape on top
> > as our
> > cockpit/instrument panel aluminum cover pieces. The bottom I
> > made slanted
> > toward the front so that even in a climb, the fuel would want to
> > go forward
> > and sit in the drain/sump area. This slant also helps passengers
> > get there
> > feet on the front rudder pedals should I invite them to fly. I
> > have not
> > learned to weld aluminum yet and did not want to use fiberglass so
> > I took
> > my cardboard mockup to a welding shop, alum. filler neck flange,
> > and
> > threaded aluminum drain fitting (all obtained from Wicks) and they
> > made up
> > the tank. To use a pre-made Cub tank or such does not utilize the
> > space up
> > front as well as a custom made-to-fit tank does in a Piet. As
> > far as CG
> > shifts are concerned, the Pietenpol is notoriously tail-heavy with
> > air
> > cooled engines so a large, full nose tank is very advantageous to
> > those of
> > us who are not skinny. The CG shift is only felt really when you
> > go long
> > cross country and only affects the last 45 minutes or so of
> > flight. So I
> > hold a little nose-down pressure. If I lost 30 lbs. I would have
> > no nose
> > pressure to even hold then.
> >
> > Mike C.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > _-
> > ========================================================================
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 11
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shortfuse Pietenpol
| Subject: | Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a |
shortfuse Pietenpol
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: jimboyer@direcway.com
Hi Mike, thanks that will make it easier to fabricate. Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a shortfuse
Pietenpol
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> Jim-- the guy just edge welded my tank pieces with generous
> amounts of
> alum. filler rod. There are no baffles in my tank either--makes
> it easier
> to build. I just supported the bottom of the tank very well
> with two s/s
> 1" wide fuel tank straps that for a nice 'U' under the tank.
>
> Mike
>
>
> At 09:52 AM 2/4/2004 -0800, you wrote:
> >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: jimboyer@direcway.com
> >
> >HI Mike,
> >
> >Does your aluminuim tank have flanges where one side meets
> another (where
> >edges
> >meet and you have to make the weld)? I have mocked up my tank and
> bought the
> >5052 for it but haven't been able to find any information on how
> the edges
> >should meet for max strength.
> >
> >Thanks, Jim
> >
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> >Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2004 7:06 am
> >Subject: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even
> in a
> >short fuse Pietenpol
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> > > <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> > > Chuck-- I simply went to Wal Mart (my favorite store) and bought
> > > white
> > > poster board. Actually for the fuel tank I used brown cardboard.
> > > I made
> > > a mock up tank that is rectangular but has the same shape on top
> > > as our
> > > cockpit/instrument panel aluminum cover pieces. The bottom I
> > > made slanted
> > > toward the front so that even in a climb, the fuel would want to
> > > go forward
> > > and sit in the drain/sump area. This slant also helps passengers
> > > get there
> > > feet on the front rudder pedals should I invite them to fly. I
> > > have not
> > > learned to weld aluminum yet and did not want to use
> fiberglass so
> > > I took
> > > my cardboard mockup to a welding shop, alum. filler neck flange,
> > > and
> > > threaded aluminum drain fitting (all obtained from Wicks) and they
> > > made up
> > > the tank. To use a pre-made Cub tank or such does not utilize the
> > > space up
> > > front as well as a custom made-to-fit tank does in a Piet. As
> > > far as CG
> > > shifts are concerned, the Pietenpol is notoriously tail-heavy with
> > > air
> > > cooled engines so a large, full nose tank is very advantageous to
> > > those of
> > > us who are not skinny. The CG shift is only felt really when you
> > > go long
> > > cross country and only affects the last 45 minutes or so of
> > > flight. So I
> > > hold a little nose-down pressure. If I lost 30 lbs. I would have
> > > no nose
> > > pressure to even hold then.
> > >
> > > Mike C.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > >
> ========================================================================> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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fuse Pietenpol
| Subject: | Re: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short |
fuse Pietenpol
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: jimboyer@direcway.com
Thanks Chris, thats basically what Mike said he did on his tank too. I was just
worried about the seam being strong enough, but the weld is probably stronger
than the material of the tank.
Thanks again, Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Christian Bobka <bobka@compuserve.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even in a short
fuse Pietenpol
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka"
> <bobka@compuserve.com>
> Have them meet at right angles.
>
> Chris Bobka
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <jimboyer@direcway.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 04, 2004 11:52 AM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--
> even in a
> short fuse Pietenpol
>
>
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: jimboyer@direcway.com
> >
> > HI Mike,
> >
> > Does your aluminuim tank have flanges where one side meets
> another (where
> edges
> > meet and you have to make the weld)? I have mocked up my tank
> and bought
> the
> > 5052 for it but haven't been able to find any information on how
> the edges
> > should meet for max strength.
> >
> > Thanks, Jim
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> > Date: Wednesday, February 4, 2004 7:06 am
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: How you get a 17 gallon nose tank--even
> in a
> short fuse Pietenpol
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> > > <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
> > > Chuck-- I simply went to Wal Mart (my favorite store) and bought
> > > white
> > > poster board. Actually for the fuel tank I used brown cardboard.
> > > I made
> > > a mock up tank that is rectangular but has the same shape on top
> > > as our
> > > cockpit/instrument panel aluminum cover pieces. The bottom I
> > > made slanted
> > > toward the front so that even in a climb, the fuel would want to
> > > go forward
> > > and sit in the drain/sump area. This slant also helps passengers
> > > get there
> > > feet on the front rudder pedals should I invite them to fly. I
> > > have not
> > > learned to weld aluminum yet and did not want to use
> fiberglass so
> > > I took
> > > my cardboard mockup to a welding shop, alum. filler neck flange,
> > > and
> > > threaded aluminum drain fitting (all obtained from Wicks) and they
> > > made up
> > > the tank. To use a pre-made Cub tank or such does not utilize the
> > > space up
> > > front as well as a custom made-to-fit tank does in a Piet. As
> > > far as CG
> > > shifts are concerned, the Pietenpol is notoriously tail-heavy with
> > > air
> > > cooled engines so a large, full nose tank is very advantageous to
> > > those of
> > > us who are not skinny. The CG shift is only felt really when you
> > > go long
> > > cross country and only affects the last 45 minutes or so of
> > > flight. So I
> > > hold a little nose-down pressure. If I lost 30 lbs. I would have
> > > no nose
> > > pressure to even hold then.
> > >
> > > Mike C.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > > _-
> > >
> ========================================================================> >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
> _-
> _-
> _-
> _-
> ========================================================================
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
We have a bolt manufacturing plant here in the area. Name is Whitesell Fastners,
Inc. number is 256-381-9410 might give them a call and see if they could
be of help to you.
Alex Sloan
Florence, Alabama
----- Original Message -----
From: Andimaxd@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2004 6:45 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: (no subject)
Hello all:
I need a source for odd bolts, preferrably in or near the Dallas/Ft. Worth metroplex.
I will order though if anyone has a good source...
I need a -- 7mm bolt with a 1 1/4" shank &
-- 7mm bolt with a 1 1/8" shank
We had an over sight making the controls and one of each of the two size bolts
will fix it. They do not have to be aircraft grade bolts, although grade 8
or grade 5 would be nice.
Have already checked Ace Hardware and a couple of car dealerships -- any suggestions?
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: "Hearty individuals" and cold weather open cockpit |
flying.
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Graham,
Thanks for the interesting story.
Alex Sloan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Graham Hansen" <grhans@cable-lynx.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: "Hearty individuals" and cold weather open cockpit
flying.
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Graham Hansen"
<grhans@cable-lynx.net>
>
> To Chuck G., who said it was 4 degrees F outside, and:
>
> "Hearty individuals like Shawn Wolk and Graham Hansen, call this
> 'Pietenpol weather"!!!"
>
> Well, I can't speak for Shawn, but this old geezer never flew his
Pietenpol
> when it was THAT cold! I guess the coldest was around 18 degrees F.,
> but that was when I was young and stupid. Now I am old and stupid, but
> not nearly so tough as I used to be.
>
> On November 15, 2000 I flew my Pietenpol to commemorate the thirtieth
> anniversary of its first flight. The temperature was -6 degrees C (or
about
> 22 degrees F). The flight is well-documented by photographs and, if I get
> a scanner, I'll post a couple. This anniversary flight was made on wheels;
> there wasn't much snow. The very first flight was made using Federal
> A1500A aluminum skis similar to the ones in Shawn's photos. Since then
> I have used home-made skis made from ash and currently have a set of
> old Federal SC-1 aluminum skis rigged for the Pietenpol. In recent years
> snow conditions here have not been favorable for ski flying, but this
winter
> seems to be shaping up to be better. Usually February and March are best
> because the days get longer, the temperatures moderate, and the chances
> of getting a sunny day improve. My Pietenpol is an excellent skiplane.
How-
> ever the open cockpit is a serious limiting factor. A nice canopy for the
> pilot
> and a cover on the front pit would be great for solo ski flying.
Installing
> a
> canopy in the front would be more difficult to accomplish.
> A HISTORICAL NOTE:
> 75 years ago, in early January, two brave men took off from Edmonton,
> Alberta in an Avro Avian two-seater biplane, on wheels, to deliver diph-
> theria antitoxin to Fort Vermilion, about 500 miles to the north. The tem-
> perature on the ground was -33 degrees F when they left. It was a night-
> marish adventure and the round trip took several days. After landing at
> various places along the way, they literally had to be lifted from the
cock-
> pits because they were practically "frozen stiff". This remains one of the
> greatest feats in the history of bush flying. Their names: W.R."Wop" May
> and Vic Horner.(The Avro Avian they flew was a wood-and-fabric open
> cockpit biplane powered by an in-line 4 cylinder Cirrus engine. It was a
> bit larger and heavier than a Pietenpol Air Camper, having a longer fuse-
> lage and an extra wing.)
>
> NOTE: Wop May was set up to be the 81st victim of Manfred Von
> Richthofen on an April day in 1918, but the "Red Baron" was
> shot down while chasing him at a very low altitude.Wop May
> became a WW I "ace" with 7 victories.
>
> Graham Hansen [Pietenpol CF-AUN is in the hangar at Camrose,
> Alberta, where the current temperature is
now
> only -28 C (-21 F), and I think it will stay
> there
> for the time being!]
>
>
Message 15
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Chris,
Didn't think to take pictures of the wheels. However, the questions you posed
provided the help I needed. I don't think that a
1 1/4" axle will fit through those wheels. Thanks a million. My wheel search
will continue.
Dave
Do Not Archive
----- Original Message -----
From: Catdesign
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 03, 2004 10:23 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wheels
Dave:
Got a picture? If so please remember to make the file size small for us dial-up
users.. What bike are they off of? It's had to tell without seeing them. I
think someone else is using the back wheels off a motorcycle as well.
The usual way to build them is a 5 1/2 spacing between spoke flanges so 5" seems
wide enough (If close enough is ok). It's wider then some of the other wheels
people have used. The big question is can you get a large enough axel in
them. Smallest axels I know of are 1" for split gear and 1 1/4 on the strait
axel. Also look at how the casting was designed, your looking for high stress
areas during side loads that might crack a flange or something. Are you planning
on using heavier (thicker) spokes? Will they fit? Finally are YOU satisfied
they will work? If it all looks good to you then give them a try (If they
are not to expensive).
Chris T.
Sacramento, Ca
Message 16
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| Subject: | Info List update |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
Group,
I would like to thank everyone who so far responded to my request to send in
the Infomation List, about their project. I've been getting very good
feedback about the idea.
Be warned though, I'm going to pester those who didn't respond !! :)
I'll soon send out a list of those I need an e-mail for.
I sent out about 165 e-mails.
Out of them about 60 were returned 'Undeliverable'
29 lists were completed and returned to me, and I have them in the archives
of my computer.
Of the 29, 21 were builders. Of these, we can update it as you progress.
Of the 21, 7 are nearly complete, and the first flight is coming soon.
Of the 29, 8 are flying. Of these 8, 8 are lovin' it !!
Keep on building ...you will be rewarded ten fold !!
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
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