---------------------------------------------------------- Pietenpol-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 02/27/04: 19 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 12:32 AM - Re: Bandsaw (Clif Dawson) 2. 04:09 AM - Re: Bandsaw (VAHOWDY@aol.com) 3. 06:26 AM - Re: Bandsaw (Laurits Larsen) 4. 07:20 AM - Re: Bandsaw (Richard Navratil) 5. 07:40 AM - Re: Bandsaw (John Ford) 6. 08:32 AM - Re: Bandsaw (baileys) 7. 09:13 AM - Re: Bandsaw (Cy Galley) 8. 11:07 AM - Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/26/04 (Michael Fisher) 9. 03:28 PM - Axle (dpaul) 10. 04:00 PM - Re: Axle (Peter W Johnson) 11. 04:59 PM - Re: Axle (Gary Gower) 12. 05:49 PM - Re: Wing tank side reading gauage (Christian Bobka) 13. 06:29 PM - Re: Axle (Cinda Gadd) 14. 07:01 PM - HIPEC again (Shawn Wolk) 15. 07:07 PM - Re: Axle (Richard Navratil) 16. 07:34 PM - Magnetic gauge (Christian Bobka) 17. 07:46 PM - Re: Bandsaw (Christian Bobka) 18. 11:37 PM - Re: Bandsaw (Clif Dawson) 19. 11:49 PM - Re: Bandsaw (Clif Dawson) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 12:32:47 AM PST US From: Clif Dawson Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw <001801c3fca9$d548daa0$1b02a8c0@WorkGroup> <001001c3fcf2$21412af0$4f119241@Spot> I assume the motor is a separate item and not built in? In other words, belt driven? If so, go get a half horse, two speed washer motor and wire it to a two way switch. There will be 1725 rpm on the high speed and 862.5 on the low. This is what I have done with my old beaver and it works just fine. If you can find the older style Speed Queen 2 speed motor, the wiring is dead simple. If it is an integral part of the saw then you're in for a lot more work. :-) Clif ----- Original Message ----- From: Catdesign To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 9:24 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw Hi all, I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. Thanks Chris T. Sacramento, Ca ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:09:34 AM PST US From: VAHOWDY@aol.com Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw Just put a smaller pully on the motor or a larger pully on the saw. Howdy ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:26:51 AM PST US From: "Laurits Larsen" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw Hi: I have a Sears 80" bandsaw too. It dates back to the 80's also. I also have a router varible speed control that I got from Harbor Freight. I got curious after your message and I tried it out on my bandsaw. It worked fine, slows the speed significantly. There is a caveat on the speed control that it is not for use on AC capacitor start motors. I noticed in a recent Harbor Freight catalog that the speed control special price (half price deal) is $12.95. I use mine occasionally on the router and it performs as it should. Hope this is useful. Lou Larsen P.S. Just finished installing the brake assemblies on my straight axle gear, (21" wheels). used 5" go cart brake drums with external brake bands; mechanical /cable system. Have the bird back on the gear now. ----- Original Message ----- From: Catdesign To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 12:24 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw Hi all, I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. Thanks Chris T. Sacramento, Ca ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:20:55 AM PST US From: "Richard Navratil" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord with the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a standard wall plug and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup to control heat on solder irons. Dick N. ----- Original Message ----- From: Catdesign To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:24 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw Hi all, I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. Thanks Chris T. Sacramento, Ca ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:40:51 AM PST US From: "John Ford" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Ford" I would be concerned about burning out the motor doing that. I think the jackshaft would be a preferable alternative if you can figure out how to add one satisfactorily. John John Ford john@indstate.edu 812-237-8542 >>> horzpool@goldengate.net Friday, February 27, 2004 10:20:34 AM >>> You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord with the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a standard wall plug and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup to control heat on solder irons. Dick N. ----- Original Message ----- From: Catdesign To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:24 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw Hi all, I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. Thanks Chris T. Sacramento, Ca ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:32:53 AM PST US From: "baileys" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" Another alternative would be to install a 3 phase motor with one of the new solid state variable speed controls. These things will go from near zero RPM to rated speed with the turn of a dial and still deliver full power. You would still have to change blades for metal but not all metals should be cut at the same speed anyway. Example Aluminum versus 4130 Bob B. ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Ford" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Ford" > > I would be concerned about burning out the motor doing that. I think > the jackshaft would be a preferable alternative if you can figure out > how to add one satisfactorily. > John > > John Ford > john@indstate.edu > 812-237-8542 > > > >>> horzpool@goldengate.net Friday, February 27, 2004 10:20:34 AM >>> > You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord > with the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a > standard wall plug and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup > to control heat on solder irons. > Dick N. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Catdesign > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:24 PM > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > > > Hi all, > > I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone > been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it > can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack > shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it > with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else > has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. > > Thanks > > Chris T. > Sacramento, Ca > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:13:12 AM PST US From: "Cy Galley" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Cy Galley" If the motor drive a belt one can use the motor as the jack shaft with a double pulley on the motor. I made mine with a 14" diameter out of 3/4" plywood. Then when I want to cut steel, which is infrequent, I put a v-belt between this large pulley and a small one on a second motor. Only turn on the 2nd motor. Don't forget to remove the v-belt when done so you don't damage a 2nd motor with extra high speed if your turn on the original motor. I have been doing this on my 20" bandsaw for over 30 years without a problem. Cy Galley, TC - Chair, Emergency Aircraft Repair, Oshkosh Editor, EAA Safety Programs cgalley@qcbc.org or sportpilot@eaa.org Always looking for articles for Sport Pilot ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Ford" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Ford" > > I would be concerned about burning out the motor doing that. I think > the jackshaft would be a preferable alternative if you can figure out > how to add one satisfactorily. > John > > John Ford > john@indstate.edu > 812-237-8542 > > > >>> horzpool@goldengate.net Friday, February 27, 2004 10:20:34 AM >>> > You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord > with the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a > standard wall plug and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup > to control heat on solder irons. > Dick N. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Catdesign > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:24 PM > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > > > Hi all, > > I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone > been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it > can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack > shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it > with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else > has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. > > Thanks > > Chris T. > Sacramento, Ca > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:07:20 AM PST US From: Michael Fisher Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 3 Msgs - 02/26/04 --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael Fisher > From: "Catdesign" > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > > Hi all, > > I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has > anyone been able > to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it can > cut metal? > Woodworking Bandsaw Owners, You might try this before investing in modifications or a new saw. Install an old blade and try your luck at friction sawing. This is kind of scary stuff initially, with lots of noise and sparks --- not for everyone. Wear ear, eye, and hand protection. Faster band speeds work better. Installing the blade with teeth upside down is sometimes worth a try. Nervous Nellies and purists may bring up the matter of edge crack propagation in the heat affected zone. Satisfy yourselves on this point by bending a narrow test piece till it fails. That is what Bernie would have done. Happy landings, Mike Fisher ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 03:28:28 PM PST US From: "dpaul" Subject: Pietenpol-List: Axle Dear List, I ordered my axle (for a wood gear - spoke wheel set up). I ordered 1 1/8 X .083 Chromoly Tubing from Wag-Aero. Never having ordered Chromoly Tubing before I wasn't sure what to expect. It has arrived and it looks and feels just too light and flimsy to serve as an axle. So, did I screw up, or is this the same material that most builders are using? Dave ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 04:00:42 PM PST US From: "Peter W Johnson" Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Axle Dave, I am using 1 1/4 x 0.120 4130. I bought the ready made axle from Aircraft spruce. Looks about the right size too. Cheers Peter. -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dpaul Subject: Pietenpol-List: Axle Dear List, I ordered my axle (for a wood gear - spoke wheel set up). I ordered 1 1/8 X .083 Chromoly Tubing from Wag-Aero. Never having ordered Chromoly Tubing before I wasn't sure what to expect. It has arrived and it looks and feels just too light and flimsy to serve as an axle. So, did I screw up, or is this the same material that most builders are using? Dave ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 04:59:09 PM PST US From: Gary Gower Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Axle --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Gary Gower Dave, Dont spect the weight of a solid axle... remember that airplanes are light. The most important thing is to keep the plane light and as faithfull to the plans as possible. Near here there was a GN-1 built, the owner made the wood pieces "just a hair bigger" on safety sake. Well, the plane was unsafe heavy and could not take off from his airport (about 7,000 ft ASL) even in winter time. The Pietenpol is very well designed, dont overbuild it. Saludos Gary Gower. Do not archive. Keep it light --- Peter W Johnson wrote: > Dave, > > I am using 1 1/4 x 0.120 4130. I bought the ready made axle from > Aircraft > spruce. Looks about the right size too. > > Cheers > > Peter. > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dpaul > Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 12:30 PM > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Axle > > > Dear List, > > I ordered my axle (for a wood gear - spoke wheel set up). I > ordered 1 > 1/8 X .083 Chromoly Tubing from Wag-Aero. Never having ordered > Chromoly > Tubing before I wasn't sure what to expect. It has arrived and it > looks and > feels just too light and flimsy to serve as an axle. So, did I screw > up, or > is this the same material that most builders are using? > > Dave > > __________________________________ http://antispam.yahoo.com/tools ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 05:49:16 PM PST US From: "Christian Bobka" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing tank side reading gauage Max, I would be sure that Rochester knows that in addition to it reading upside down, that it has to show full when the cork is at the position farthest from the indicator. This might not be readily obvious. Also, you may wish to see if they would be willing to make these and offer them up for sale through AS and S as there is a distinct market for them. I would also let them know that the "normal" shortest gauge is no longer offered by AS and S and they may wish to contact AS and S and find out why. I will let you know if I want some after I check a few things. Good work. I used to live in Coppell and Addision before that and always had the instention of looking up Rochester. I think US Gauge is there too. Chris Bobka Minneapolis ----- Original Message ----- From: Andimaxd@aol.com To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 10:54 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing tank side reading gauage In a message dated 2/25/2004 10:35:12 AM Central Standard Time, bobka@compuserve.com writes: Max, Can you give the p/n and the page in the 1999 AS and S catalog. I am having trouble trying to tell which one you are talking of. chris bobka Cris: 1998-1999 AS&S, pg. 152, bottom right corner of the page. P/N 05-16800. It is right under the Stearman type float gauge. This gauge is made to mount from the top down only. It is sealed from the fuel and operates magnetically. They can't tell me at customer service why it would not work if you mounted from the bottom side, but it would register opposite if you mount it from the bottom up. You can pull it up straight from the Rochester Gauge web site and it tells a little more about it. Max, Arlington, TX. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 06:29:14 PM PST US From: "Cinda Gadd" Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Axle Dave, The Flying and glider plans call out 1 1/4 X 12 GA. Chrome-Molybdenum for the axle. 12 GA. is .1045" thick, I think most guys go up to .120" rather than down to .095". 1 1/8 X .083" does sound a little light and flimsy. Mine is split axle and I chose 1 1/4 X .120". Skip I ordered my axle (for a wood gear - spoke wheel set up). I ordered 1 1/8 X .083 Chromoly Tubing from Wag-Aero. Never having ordered Chromoly Tubing before I wasn't sure what to expect. It has arrived and it looks and feels just too light and flimsy to serve as an axle. So, did I screw up, or is this the same material that most builders are using? Dave ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 07:01:38 PM PST US From: "Shawn Wolk" Subject: Pietenpol-List: HIPEC again There is a very good article of a large Jodel variant...FALCONAR F12A finished in HIPEC with NO ribstitching in this months Custom Planes Magazine. This aircraft wing loading is 12.857 lbs. sq.ft. at gross. Much more than any Pietenpol. Shawn Wolk Winnipeg, MB C-FRAZ Pietenpol Aircamper C-GZOT Skyhopper 2 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 07:07:14 PM PST US From: "Richard Navratil" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Axle I used 1 1/8" x .100 and was not happy with the amount of bow in the axle. I switched it to a 1 1/4" x .120 Dick N. ----- Original Message ----- From: dpaul To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 7:30 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Axle Dear List, I ordered my axle (for a wood gear - spoke wheel set up). I ordered 1 1/8 X .083 Chromoly Tubing from Wag-Aero. Never having ordered Chromoly Tubing before I wasn't sure what to expect. It has arrived and it looks and feels just too light and flimsy to serve as an axle. So, did I screw up, or is this the same material that most builders are using? Dave ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 07:34:21 PM PST US From: "Christian Bobka" Subject: Pietenpol-List: Magnetic gauge The key word in Max's post is that these are "magnetic". I beleive the Rochester gauge uses a magnet at the end of the spiral rod. The poles of this magnet align with another magnet that is attached to the indicating card. The magnet on the spiral is in the gas. Then there is the aluminum of the housing and then the card is "outside" of this housing in the air, balanced on a point as is a compass. There is no way for fuel to leak out ever! Hence, the "hermetically sealed" statement. The magnetic field carries through the aluminum of the housing to enable this. Once the poles of the two magnets align, they don't move out of alignment at all. It remains rigid in the magnetic flux. This is the way the fuel gauges in the P-51 Mustang and the PT-19/22/26 worked. Look at one if you ever get the chance. Max, confirm this is the way they are constructed. I am quite sure from the description that this is the case. If it is indeed true then it is the way to go. These would be the most superior of the float style gauges to use! chris bobka ----- Original Message ----- From: Barry Davis To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 2:48 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing tank side reading gauage We may need 6. Barry ----- Original Message ----- From: Andimaxd@aol.com To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, February 25, 2004 11:01 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing tank side reading gauage Pieters: I have been visiting with Rochester Gauges here in Dallas about turning the cylinder inside their spiral action fuel gauge upside down so it will register fuel quantity correctly in a center section wing tank application. This is a precision magnetic gauge with a float traveling on a spiral rod to record fuel level on hermetically sealed side-reading dial marked E,1/4,1/2,3/4,F. All aluminum construction. Housing has 1-1/2" NPT male threads for connection to threaded bushing (they sell aluminum bushings and flanges for this gauge as well). Length "L" 6", Float Travel 4-1/4". In the 1999 AS&S catalogue they sold a top mounted one for $39.00. They manufacture them here in Dallas. If I can talk them into making one that will mount on the bottom of a tank, instead of only from the top, how many of you would be interested in purchasing one. They have a $125.00 minimum order for PO's. I have a tax I.D. # and could purchase them direct, if enough of you are interested. They are supposed to call me back and let me know if they can or will make this gauge as per my request. I thought it might have a greater influence on them if they could sell more than one. We have not got a price yet, or if they will do it, but, I don't expect it would be a lot higher than the 1999 AS&S price on the similarly built top mount fuel gauge. If any of you are interested let me know back ASAP. Bargaining power will be much better with numbers, I'm sure. Thanks, Max Arlington, TX. ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:46:01 PM PST US From: "Christian Bobka" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka" Three phase? You running three phase on single phase? Chris Bobka ----- Original Message ----- From: "baileys" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" > > Another alternative would be to install a 3 phase motor with one of the new > solid state variable speed controls. > These things will go from near zero RPM to rated speed with the turn of a > dial and still deliver full power. You would still have to change blades > for metal but not all metals should be cut at the same speed anyway. > Example Aluminum versus 4130 > Bob B. > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "John Ford" > To: > Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 9:40 AM > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "John Ford" > > > > I would be concerned about burning out the motor doing that. I think > > the jackshaft would be a preferable alternative if you can figure out > > how to add one satisfactorily. > > John > > > > John Ford > > john@indstate.edu > > 812-237-8542 > > > > > > >>> horzpool@goldengate.net Friday, February 27, 2004 10:20:34 AM >>> > > You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord > > with the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a > > standard wall plug and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup > > to control heat on solder irons. > > Dick N. > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Catdesign > > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > > Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:24 PM > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw > > > > > > Hi all, > > > > I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone > > been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it > > can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack > > shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it > > with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else > > has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. > > > > Thanks > > > > Chris T. > > Sacramento, Ca > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 11:37:12 PM PST US From: Clif Dawson Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw <003201c3fd4f$4c1bf450$9070fea9@VALUEDCB7D4C82> <01ae01c3fdac$e8d0b4e0$0101a8c0@domain> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Clif Dawson Again back to those big commercial washers. Those that are not on an inverter drive and in a single phase location use humungus capacitors to "convert" the motors to single phase. There have been all kinds of systems used over the years. An article and assorted letters on this very subject appeared in Fine Woodworking years ago. I never had any need or interest in figuring out how that worked but it does. If you really want to know find your nearest Wascomat or Unimat service place and ask their techs. Clif > > Three phase? You running three phase on single phase? > > Chris Bobka ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 11:49:17 PM PST US From: Clif Dawson Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw <001801c3fca9$d548daa0$1b02a8c0@WorkGroup> <001001c3fcf2$21412af0$4f119241@Spot> <002901c3fd45$42347250$0600a8c0@laptop> This won't work. These motors depend on the current CYCLES not voltage for speed. At North American 60 cycle current you get 1725 rpm. Using the same motor in Europe at 50 cycles gives you 5/6 X 1725 rpm. The only way around this is an inverter drive which takes in the 60 cycle, turns it into DC, then converts it back to variable cycle voltage from 0 up to whatever the designer needs for the application. This is now used in industrial washing machines from 18 lb up through 30,50, 75. 125 175 for places like hospitals and hotels. Electric trains and monorails use huge inverters. The motor in your hand drill is a brush motor that uses variable voltage. It doesn't depend on the cycles at all. ----- Original Message ----- From: Richard Navratil To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 7:20 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord with the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a standard wall plug and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup to control heat on solder irons. Dick N. ----- Original Message ----- From: Catdesign To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:24 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw Hi all, I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions. Thanks Chris T. Sacramento, Ca