Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:45 AM - Re: Axle (Clif Dawson)
2. 04:10 AM - Re: Axle (Cinda Gadd)
3. 05:04 AM - Re: Bandsaw (Carbarvo@aol.com)
4. 05:30 AM - three phase from single phase was Bandsaw (baileys)
5. 05:48 AM - bobka@compuserve.com (Andimaxd@aol.com)
6. 05:53 AM - Re: Magnetic gauge (Andimaxd@aol.com)
7. 06:15 AM - Re: Bandsaw (walt evans)
8. 06:20 AM - bandsaw (Dennis Engelkenjohn)
9. 07:21 AM - bandsaw gear reduction (Jim Cooper)
10. 09:25 AM - Re: Bandsaw (Norman Stapelberg)
11. 10:10 AM - Re: Axle (Clif Dawson)
12. 10:38 AM - Re: Axle (Fred Weaver)
13. 12:13 PM - Spiral Fuel Gauge Interest Group (Andimaxd@aol.com)
14. 07:21 PM - Re: Spiral Fuel Gauge Interest Group (Ted Brousseau)
15. 08:10 PM - Re: Spiral Fuel Gauge Interest Group (Andimaxd@aol.com)
Message 1
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All the plans I've got specify 1 1/2" tubing.
That's the 1932 Fly+Glide Piet, 1933 F+G
Scout split axle and my plans from Don
Pietenpol.
Where's this reference to 1 1/4"? My copies
came from EAA 10 years ago. Did they
make a change somewhere along the line?
So, Richard, I assume your 1 1/4" is holding
up fine? I would rather use that if it does. I
could make it fit my wheels more easily.
Clif
Dave,
The Flying and glider plans call out 1 1/4 X 12 GA. Chrome-Molybdenum for the
axle. 12 GA. is .1045" thick, I think most guys go up to .120" rather than down
to .095".
1 1/8 X .083" does sound a little light and flimsy.
Mine is split axle and I chose 1 1/4 X .120".
Skip
Message 2
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Clif,
Your right. F&g 1 1/2 X 12 GA. The 1934 plans split axle 1 1/2 X 10 GA. (.130")
My landing gear is a combination of 1934 plans, Grega, and Wag Aero Sport trainer,
because I wanted wider tread than Piets 56". Wag Aero has the 1 1/4 X .120".
Skip, reading better with morning light and stronger glasses.
All the plans I've got specify 1 1/2" tubing.
That's the 1932 Fly+Glide Piet, 1933 F+G
Scout split axle and my plans from Don
Pietenpol.
Where's this reference to 1 1/4"? My copies
came from EAA 10 years ago. Did they
make a change somewhere along the line?
Clif
Message 3
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Chris T.......I subscribe to a magazine called "The Home Shop Machinist"
which is published bi-monthly. The Jan/Feb 2004 issue has an article on converting
a wood-cutting bandsaw to a metal-cutter. The conversion he describes
involves the addition of a jackshaft and idler pulley and may be too involved for
your interests, but he has some good data on saw blade speeds. This is kind of
an
obscure publication and you might have difficulty finding a copy. If youre
really interested, contact me off-net and I'll zerox a copy for you and send it
by snail mail. Carl Vought
Message 4
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| Subject: | three phase from single phase was Bandsaw |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "baileys" <baileys@ktis.net>
Chris,
The answer is not exactly, today there are a number of low cost variable
frequency solid state single phase to three phase converters on the market.
I run a small metal lathe with such a beast. For example if I'm drilling
and reaming a number of parts using the three jaw chuck and a drill chuck in
the tailstock. Being very lazy I don't like to change belt pulleys all the
time. So now I can change speed with the twist of a knob. Three phase
motors are a little cheaper than single phase and I got the converter from
ACTECH www.actechdrives.com is their web site. I have no connection with
this company and if anyone is interested in knowing more please contact me
off line.
Bob Bailey
> Three phase? You running three phase on single phase?
>
> Chris Bobka
Message 5
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In a message dated 2/27/2004 7:49:48 PM Central Standard Time,
bobka@compuserve.com writes:
> Max,
>
> I would be sure that Rochester knows that in addition to it reading upside
> down, that it has to show full when the cork is at the position farthest from
> the indicator. This might not be readily obvious.
>
> Also, you may wish to see if they would be willing to make these and offer
> them up for sale through AS and S as there is a distinct market for them.
>
> I would also let them know that the "normal" shortest gauge is no longer
> offered by AS and S and they may wish to contact AS and S and find out why.
>
> I will let you know if I want some after I check a few things.
>
> Good work. I used to live in Coppell and Addision before that and always
> had the instention of looking up Rochester. I think US Gauge is there too.
>
> Chris Bobka
Chris,
The gauge reading backwards was the first concern I had (E for F etc..). My
solution for this was to simply turn the cylinder upside down.
AS&S would not even talk to me about trying to special order the 6" gauge
that they don' carry anymore, let alone take the initiative to pick up the phone
and ask about designing an inverted fuel gauge of the same type. I do not
intend to help AS&S increase sales due to this fact.
The people at Rochester have not been much more help. If the computer says
it cannot be done, these people now days just say "It can't be done" and except
it -- and move on to the next call and the next coffee break. There is no
brain power involved. It is scary to me; how does anything get accomplished in
this country anymore?
At this point, I have taken the initiative done all of the leg work/research
and will market the item myself. If Rochester doesn't come through, I will
take your suggestion and go visit with US Gauge.
Please feel free if you have any more question or concerns,
Max Davis
Arlington, TX. 817.516.1116
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Magnetic gauge |
In a message dated 2/27/2004 9:34:54 PM Central Standard Time,
bobka@compuserve.com writes:
> The key word in Max's post is that these are "magnetic".
>
> I beleive the Rochester gauge uses a magnet at the end of the spiral rod.
> The poles of this magnet align with another magnet that is attached to the
> indicating card. The magnet on the spiral is in the gas. Then there is the
> aluminum of the housing and then the card is "outside" of this housing in the
> air, balanced on a point as is a compass. There is no way for fuel to leak out
> ever! Hence, the "hermetically sealed" statement. The magnetic field
> carries through the aluminum of the housing to enable this. Once the poles of
the
> two magnets align, they don't move out of alignment at all. It remains
> rigid in the magnetic flux.
>
> This is the way the fuel gauges in the P-51 Mustang and the PT-19/22/26
> worked. Look at one if you ever get the chance.
>
> Max, confirm this is the way they are constructed. I am quite sure from the
> description that this is the case. If it is indeed true then it is the way
> to go. These would be the most superior of the float style gauges to use!
>
> chris bobka
>
Chris,
You have described this gauge perfectly, and also why I am so interested in
it.
Max,
Arlington, TX.
Message 7
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Exactly! The brush type motor in a drill or "Skill" saw are called "universal
" motors and can be run on AC or DC. only voltage dependent. Only reason the
modern day ones cant be run on DC is the variable speed trigger is a circuit
by itself and can't deal with the DC.
I'm sure it wouldn't be hard to find an old style 1/2" drill at a flea market and
run it thru a rheostat, and somehow run it through the existing motor
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 2:49 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw
<<<< The motor in your
hand drill is a brush motor that uses variable voltage. It
doesn't depend on the cycles at all.>>>>>>
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Navratil
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 27, 2004 7:20 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw
You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord with
the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a standard wall plug
and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup to control heat on solder
irons.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Catdesign
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2004 11:24 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw
Hi all,
I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone been
able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it can cut metal?
I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack shaft" and a pully to
gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it with the way the motor is mounted
under the table. So, if anyone else has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions.
Thanks
Chris T.
Sacramento, Ca
Message 8
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You could just get a Dayton AC/DC variable speed motor. Comes with its own converter
and is reversible too. Available in 1 1/2 hp rating, 0-2500rpm. Thats what
I did on my Sears 80" bandsaw. Salvaged the motor off some junk.
Dennis Engelkenjohn
Message 9
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| Subject: | bandsaw gear reduction |
Hi, Chris T.
My partner, Tom Schildt, has figured out a neat way to achieve the necessary
reduction to cut 4130 steel on a Delta 14" bandsaw. We purchased a wet-dry grinder
from Harbor Freight with a 1/3hp(?) electric motor for less than $40, (item
#35098). The dry grinder rpm is 3450 and the wet grinder rpm is 160. The
cost of a gear box new that would give a similar reduction is almost $400. To
achieve the blade speed of approximately 270'/min. we had to further reduce the
rpm by about 1/2, so we replaced the wet grinder wheel with a 2" pulley, and
connected it with a 1/2" belt to the 4" pulley on the lower 14" bandsaw wheel.
The bandsaw now has 2 motors which we will operate separately - one is the regular
1hp motor rigged for cutting wood, and the other is the 1/3hp motor rigged
for cutting 4130 steel. We haven't yet hooked all this up so we don't know
how it will work. It should be done in a couple of weeks. If you have any questions
please call at 337/937-6116 or email me at bl
ugoos1@d
lps. Jim Cooper
Message 10
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I am using a frequency drive on my drill press, motor is a three phase
0.75 Kw ( 1Hp) 380/220 volt, cant remember if I got it connected in star
or delta will have open it and check, the drive is a single phase input
and three phase 220volt output. Please note that in South Africa we use
220volt for domestic use. The drive can also be controlled via a
variable resistor for different frequencies (speeds) I use
pre-programmed speeds, found that under 15Hz the current is to high. I
also have one on my three phase compressor programmed to 50Hz. So far no
problems benn about 5 years in use.
Norman Stapelberg
ZS-VJA (rebuilding)
South Africa
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif
Dawson
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw
This won't work. These motors depend on the current
CYCLES not voltage for speed. At North American 60
cycle current you get 1725 rpm. Using the same motor
in Europe at 50 cycles gives you 5/6 X 1725 rpm. The
only way around this is an inverter drive which takes in
the 60 cycle, turns it into DC, then converts it back to
variable cycle voltage from 0 up to whatever the designer
needs for the application. This is now used in industrial
washing machines from 18 lb up through 30,50, 75. 125
175 for places like hospitals and hotels. Electric trains
and monorails use huge inverters. The motor in your
hand drill is a brush motor that uses variable voltage. It
doesn't depend on the cycles at all.
----- Original Message -----
From: Richard Navratil <mailto:horzpool@goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw
You could try making a variable control. Get a pice of electrical cord
with the male end, a steel double outlet box with cover plate, a
standard wall plug and a light switch dimmer control. I used that setup
to control heat on solder irons.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Catdesign <mailto:catdesign@intergate.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bandsaw
Hi all,
I have an older style (more like old) 80" Sears bandsaw. Has anyone
been able to figure out how to slow down this perticular band saw so it
can cut metal? I have been trying to figure out how to add a "jack
shaft" and a pully to gear it down but I can't figure out how to do it
with the way the motor is mounted under the table. So, if anyone else
has this saw I'd apreciate suggestions.
Thanks
Chris T.
Sacramento, Ca
Message 11
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Mistrakes! We don't make no misteaks!........oops!
Clif :-) :-)
I really am doing something on my Piet.
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID=27
----- Original Message -----
From: Cinda Gadd
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 4:10 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Axle
Clif,
Your right. F&g 1 1/2 X 12 GA. The 1934 plans split axle 1 1/2 X 10 GA. (.130")
My landing gear is a combination of 1934 plans, Grega, and Wag Aero Sport trainer,
because I wanted wider tread than Piets 56". Wag Aero has the 1 1/4 X .120".
Skip, reading better with morning light and stronger glasses.
All the plans I've got specify 1 1/2" tubing.
That's the 1932 Fly+Glide Piet, 1933 F+G
Scout split axle and my plans from Don
Pietenpol.
Where's this reference to 1 1/4"? My copies
came from EAA 10 years ago. Did they
make a change somewhere along the line?
Clif
Message 12
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Nice looking work Clif. I especially like your airspeed emblem.
Weav
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 10:09 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Axle
Mistrakes! We don't make no misteaks!........oops!
Clif :-) :-)
I really am doing something on my Piet.
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/photoGalleryList2.cfm?AlbumID27
Message 13
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| Subject: | Spiral Fuel Gauge Interest Group |
Group:
Thanks for your quick response. I visited, in person, with a customer
service rep. and an engineer yesterday about the inverted spiral fuel gauge. They
have experimented a little with the idea and think they can make the
adjustments for us without too much retooling. This is a large company and a very
limited production run on an item they have never had a request for. In order
for
them to produce the item, I will have to purchase at least 10 units at a time.
In order to do this, I will make the purchase through my family's hardware
store in Silverton, Texas, once they've committed to manufacturing them. I am
supposed to hear back from them on Monday or Tuesday of next week.
The cost should be about $45 per unit plus tax and shipping charges to your
destination. I will ship them out to you on demand.
Please email back to confirm your order.
Max L. Davis
Arlington, TX.
817.516.1116
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Spiral Fuel Gauge Interest Group |
Max,
I am sorry I didn't respond to your request for a picture. I just got a chance
to sit down and read a week's worth of email. You have seen the gauge by now
and it has been described very well already by Chris and others. I can see no
reason it won't work, if the readout can be reversed.
However, I would like to throw out a thought and see if others have had a similar
concern or have a solution. The deepest part of the wing tank is usually somewhere
about 1/2 way between the front spar and rear spar. It would seem that
is where the gauge has to go. Here is my concern. When the passenger is getting
in and out their head and back come pretty close to the bottom of the center
section. I have not figured out where to place the gauge so it didn't take
a chunk out of a skull or back. I like the Stearman gauge but have rejected
it for this reason. I hope to fly with a passenger tomorrow and will closely
observe how they get in and out vis a vis the bottom of the wing and report
back.
If someone has a thought on how to overcome this I would love to have this upside
down gauge on mine too.
Ted
PS my tank is not 6" deep. I assume that 6" is measured from the very bottom of
the spiral to the very top of the gauge that is outside of the tank and that
only 4 1/2" is inside the tank?
----- Original Message -----
From: Andimaxd@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2004 3:12 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Spiral Fuel Gauge Interest Group
Group:
Thanks for your quick response. I visited, in person, with a customer service
rep. and an engineer yesterday about the inverted spiral fuel gauge. They have
experimented a little with the idea and think they can make the adjustments
for us without too much retooling. This is a large company and a very limited
production run on an item they have never had a request for. In order for
them to produce the item, I will have to purchase at least 10 units at a time.
In order to do this, I will make the purchase through my family's hardware store
in Silverton, Texas, once they've committed to manufacturing them. I am
supposed to hear back from them on Monday or Tuesday of next week.
The cost should be about $45 per unit plus tax and shipping charges to your destination.
I will ship them out to you on demand.
Please email back to confirm your order.
Max L. Davis
Arlington, TX.
817.516.1116
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Spiral Fuel Gauge Interest Group |
In a message dated 2/28/2004 9:21:49 PM Central Standard Time,
nfn00979@naples.net writes:
> However, I would like to throw out a thought and see if others have had a
> similar concern or have a solution. The deepest part of the wing tank is
> usually somewhere about 1/2 way between the front spar and rear spar. It would
> seem that is where the gauge has to go. Here is my concern. When the
> passenger is getting in and out their head and back come pretty close to the
bottom
> of the center section. I have not figured out where to place the gauge so it
> didn't take a chunk out of a skull or back. I like the Stearman gauge but
> have rejected it for this reason.
Ted:
The gauge is six inches overall. An inch and a half or so is outside of the
tank (the readable part). AS&S has a coupling and a flange just below the
gauges in question that would allow you to adjust the height of the gauge to some
extent. My tank is flat on the bottom, so I could have a larger fuel
capacity. It is probably 4-1/4" in the rear and probably 5" or 5-1/2" in the middle.
I would mount this gauge or a stearman type over to the side (right side) so
as to be out of the way and as far back as possible. I personally, am
concerned primarily about satisfying the FAA rules for a gauge, having a safe gauge
that cannot leak or be broken off by an accident and knowing where or when
"empty" is. Most of the stearman type gauges in current use on Piets, is as
close to the right rear cabane as is allowable; from what I have seen. At any
rate, this gauge does not hang down near as far as a 6" stearman type.
Max
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