Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:59 AM - Dimensions (rhartwig11@juno.com)
2. 08:04 AM - Re: Official minutes of unofficial meeting (Fmetcalfe)
3. 02:47 PM - Re: T-88 (Christian Bobka)
4. 04:03 PM - A nostalgic site WAY off subject (walt evans)
5. 05:12 PM - Re: A nostalgic site WAY off subject (Larry Ragan)
6. 06:49 PM - Re: wing strut static testing (Bert Conoly)
7. 07:37 PM - Re: Dimensions (Alex Sloan)
8. 09:30 PM - Re: T-88 (Fred Weaver)
Message 1
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
Alex wrote:
>On my fuselage plans at the rear and on top measured
>from tail post location is a dimenssion of 18 7/8" On the original
plans
>the dimension given is 18" Is there any one who can tell me why the
7/8" differance?
Alex,
I did the same as Walt--placed the horiz stab even with the rear of the
fuse and then marked the forward edge of the horiz stab on fuse (the mark
was at 18 inches.) I made my turtle deck as a subassembly by temporarily
clamping the bulkheads to the fuselage and then glued the stringers to
the bulkheads. I will not attach the turtledeck subassembly to the
fuselage until I am ready for final assembly. This allows easier access
for sealing the wood and adding hardware, but what do I know--you may
already be close to final assembly. I have found (sometimes the hard
way) that it is often better to build things to fit rather than follow
the plans to the letter. The rudder is a good example--if you build it
to plans it will be too long, so you are then left with the choice of
shortening the rudder--or adding a little wood to the top of the vertical
stab--or letting the rudder hang below the fuselage a little bit--or
building a new fuselage to match the rudder. My choice was to build a
new fus........strike that.....I added a little spruce to the top of the
vertical.
Dick Hartwig
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Official minutes of unofficial meeting |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Fmetcalfe" <fmetcalf@bellsouth.net>
I want to know what's in the box.... Grin
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: <BARNSTMR@aol.com>
<pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Official minutes of unofficial meeting
> NOTICE: Download of attached photo is optional. I apologize in advance if
anyone is inconvenienced by excessive file size.
>
> **********************************
>
> Minutes of the 1st semi-periodic loosely sporadic un-official meeting of
the North Texas Pietenpol Association (NTPA). Date Tues May 4, 2004
>
> 1. Attendance: 6 - See picture attached.
> 2. 1st item of business: Motion was made to go eat. All were in favor for
flavor.
> 3. Motion was made to eat Dessert. Motion passed 5 - 1
> 4. Meeting was temporarily interrupted due to conversation with Purple Cow
waiter who may indeed be a potential Piet builder and future NTPA convert.
Appointed Jim Markle for follow up discussion with waiter on future date.
> 5. Final order of business: Splitting up the tab with NTPA funds.
Appointed Andi Davis as unofficial NTPA treasurer.
> 6. Meeting adjourned for tour of J.Markle's manufacturing/ production
facility and Pietenpol progress.
>
> All agreed the best part about building a Pietenpol is the friends made
along the way. Thanks to Andi, Max, Julie, and Jim for the wonderful
hospitality shown to Leann and myself. Also, thanks to Andi's parents for
looking after the kids. Hope we didn't keep Andi out too late!
>
> Let us know when the next meeting will be. We had a great time.
>
> Terry B
> DO NOT ARCHIVE
>
Message 3
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka" <sbobka@charter.net>
"I use plain, small, Dixie-type cups" Oscar said.
I thought that the T-88 instruction say to NOT use Dixie cups as the wax in
them will screw up the epoxy bonding ability.
Chris
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: T-88
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> Well, here's a subject I can express an opinion on since my "Flying
> Squirrel" is wood framed and is assembled with T-88 so I have some
> experience with it. Living in Oregon when I did all the wood
construction,
> my workshop was rarely out of the 50's or 60's and I never had a problem
> with the T-88 developing full strength and solidifying. As a matter of
> fact, it was a relief to me to read that this is one of the benefits of
T-88
> (ability to use effectively at lower temperatures). The first time I
mixed
> some up I used hypodermics to accurately measure quantities, but that was
> the only time. From then on I mixed it by eye and again, never had any
> problems with joints developing full strength. The ratio is very
important,
> but not ultra-critical.
>
> My recommendations go along with the others already mentioned: don't clamp
> too tightly, make sure you get squeeze-out to ensure a full joint, make
sure
> your joints are held firmly in place so things don't creep or slide during
> cure, and when you mix the two parts you should have something the
> consistency of honey that you spread onto the surfaces to be glued. I use
> plain, small, Dixie-type cups and plain wood tongue depressors to mix my
> epoxy. You can pay more for these by ordering them from an aircraft
supply,
> but what for? After buying my first lot from one of the suppliers and
then
> seeing the very same thing in my local Costco store for 30% less cost, I
> never went back.
>
> I've had to "unglue" or remove things that were glued and cured, and I can
> say with confidence that (with Douglas fir, anyway) my glue joints were
> stronger than the wood fibers they were bonded to.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | A nostalgic site WAY off subject |
Go here cause things are slow...what do you guys remember?? I remember about 90%
of it. The aviator cap keeps it slightly on subject.
http://www.singingman.us/DYR.htm
walt evans
NX140DL
fly-in next Sunday at Sussex NJ for their EAA
do not archive
Message 5
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| Subject: | A nostalgic site WAY off subject |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Larry Ragan" <lragan@hotmail.com>
Thanks Walt,
I was fortunate enough to remember those.
Larry Ragan
Jacksonville, Fl.
lragan@hotmail.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: wing strut static testing |
At the risk of a collective sigh and eye-roll from some in the group....
Do any of you remember seeing any information on design of aircraft wing struts.
I am especially interested in the engineering approach. That is, do you
treat the two piece wing as a cantilever design, sum moments about the attach
ponits (which are pinned attachments), and design the lift struts around that
OR do you treat the whole shebang as statically determinant and simply divide
the load up by the 4 cabane struts and the 4 lift strut vertical components and
design around a factor of safety to design the optimum member and fittings.
I'm not redesigning anything but I was interested in doing a static load test
(to check those fork ends and welds, you know) on my lift struts and I am curious
what loads are acceptable. One way produces about twice the required as
the other.
Please respond off line.
Thanks, Bert (who heads off to the paint shop next weekend)
do not archive
Message 7
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alex Sloan" <alexms1@bellsouth.net>
Dick,
Thanks for your input. I have yet to build the empennage. Wanting to
complete the fuselage before starting other things. Just needed reassurance
on how to handle the 7/8".
Alex Sloan
----- Original Message -----
From: <rhartwig11@juno.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Dimensions
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
Alex wrote:
>On my fuselage plans at the rear and on top measured
>from tail post location is a dimenssion of 18 7/8" On the original
plans
>the dimension given is 18" Is there any one who can tell me why the
7/8" differance?
Alex,
I did the same as Walt--placed the horiz stab even with the rear of the
fuse and then marked the forward edge of the horiz stab on fuse (the mark
was at 18 inches.) I made my turtle deck as a subassembly by temporarily
clamping the bulkheads to the fuselage and then glued the stringers to
the bulkheads. I will not attach the turtledeck subassembly to the
fuselage until I am ready for final assembly. This allows easier access
for sealing the wood and adding hardware, but what do I know--you may
already be close to final assembly. I have found (sometimes the hard
way) that it is often better to build things to fit rather than follow
the plans to the letter. The rudder is a good example--if you build it
to plans it will be too long, so you are then left with the choice of
shortening the rudder--or adding a little wood to the top of the vertical
stab--or letting the rudder hang below the fuselage a little bit--or
building a new fuselage to match the rudder. My choice was to build a
new fus........strike that.....I added a little spruce to the top of the
vertical.
Dick Hartwig
Message 8
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Fred Weaver <mytyweav@earthlink.net>
Chris.... The small Dixie cups you use for brushing your teeth don't
have the wax.
On Saturday, May 8, 2004, at 02:41 PM, Christian Bobka wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christian Bobka"
> <sbobka@charter.net>
>
> "I use plain, small, Dixie-type cups" Oscar said.
>
> I thought that the T-88 instruction say to NOT use Dixie cups as the
> wax in
> them will screw up the epoxy bonding ability.
>
> Chris
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2004 8:04 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: T-88
>
>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Well, here's a subject I can express an opinion on since my "Flying
>> Squirrel" is wood framed and is assembled with T-88 so I have some
>> experience with it. Living in Oregon when I did all the wood
> construction,
>> my workshop was rarely out of the 50's or 60's and I never had a
>> problem
>> with the T-88 developing full strength and solidifying. As a matter
>> of
>> fact, it was a relief to me to read that this is one of the benefits
>> of
> T-88
>> (ability to use effectively at lower temperatures). The first time I
> mixed
>> some up I used hypodermics to accurately measure quantities, but that
>> was
>> the only time. From then on I mixed it by eye and again, never had
>> any
>> problems with joints developing full strength. The ratio is very
> important,
>> but not ultra-critical.
>>
>> My recommendations go along with the others already mentioned: don't
>> clamp
>> too tightly, make sure you get squeeze-out to ensure a full joint,
>> make
> sure
>> your joints are held firmly in place so things don't creep or slide
>> during
>> cure, and when you mix the two parts you should have something the
>> consistency of honey that you spread onto the surfaces to be glued.
>> I use
>> plain, small, Dixie-type cups and plain wood tongue depressors to mix
>> my
>> epoxy. You can pay more for these by ordering them from an aircraft
> supply,
>> but what for? After buying my first lot from one of the suppliers and
> then
>> seeing the very same thing in my local Costco store for 30% less
>> cost, I
>> never went back.
>>
>> I've had to "unglue" or remove things that were glued and cured, and
>> I can
>> say with confidence that (with Douglas fir, anyway) my glue joints
>> were
>> stronger than the wood fibers they were bonded to.
>>
>> Oscar Zuniga
>> San Antonio, TX
>> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
>> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
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> >
>
>
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