Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:52 AM - Re: Ash engine support (Kip and Beth Gardner)
2. 05:52 AM - Re: Ash engine support (At7000ft@aol.com)
3. 07:50 AM - WANTED - Metal propeller for C-85 Continental. (Sayre, William G)
4. 08:19 AM - WANTED - Metal propeller for C-85 Continental. (Sayre, William G)
5. 08:24 AM - Re: Ash engine support (Hubbard, Eugene)
6. 01:36 PM - Stromberg Carburetor (Mike King)
7. 01:59 PM - Re: Stromberg Carburetor (DJ Vegh)
8. 02:32 PM - Re: Stromberg Carburetor (Mike King)
9. 03:02 PM - Re: Stromberg Carburetor (walt evans)
10. 03:17 PM - Re: Stromberg Carburetor (Mike King)
11. 03:46 PM - Re: Stromberg Carburetor (BARNSTMR@aol.com)
12. 04:03 PM - Re: Stromberg Carburetor (walt evans)
13. 07:23 PM - Lift strut question (Ted Brousseau)
14. 09:13 PM - Re: Ash engine support (Peter W Johnson)
15. 10:34 PM - Re: Lift strut question (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Ash engine support |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Kip and Beth Gardner <kipandbeth@earthlink.net>
At 9:36 PM -0400 6/6/04, At7000ft@aol.com wrote:
>I am building a long fuselage Piet with a Corvair and have a
>question about the the 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" horizontal ash engine support
>which attaches to the front fuselage vertical braces and firewall.
>Can see the need for it when installing a Ford engine but seems a
>bit hefty for a Corvair installation. Has anyone used a lighter
>piece for this like 1" x 3/4" spruce?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick H
Rick,
You don't use the ash at all for the Corvair. The Corvair uses a
completely different engine mount. If you don't have the plans, they
are available from the Pietenpols, or you can use the version
described in William Wynne's conversion manual.
Kip Gardner
--
North Canton, OH
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Ash engine support |
Yes I have the Corvair mount plans, but I still need to use some kind of
cross member in place of that firewall ash brace don't I?
>I am building a long fuselage Piet with a Corvair and have a
>question about the the 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" horizontal ash engine support
>which attaches to the front fuselage vertical braces and firewall.
>Can see the need for it when installing a Ford engine but seems a
>bit hefty for a Corvair installation. Has anyone used a lighter
>piece for this like 1" x 3/4" spruce?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick H
Rick,
You don't use the ash at all for the Corvair. The Corvair uses a
completely different engine mount. If you don't have the plans, they
are available from the Pietenpols, or you can use the version
described in William Wynne's conversion manual.
Message 3
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| Subject: | WANTED - Metal propeller for C-85 Continental. |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Sayre, William G" <william.g.sayre@boeing.com>
WANTED - Metal propeller for C-85 Continental.
Contact: bannerbill@att.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | WANTED - Metal propeller for C-85 Continental. |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Sayre, William G" <william.g.sayre@boeing.com>
Forgot to mention it is for a flanged-crank.
> WANTED - Metal propeller for C-85 Continental.
>
> Contact: bannerbill@att.net
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Ash engine support |
Rick,
I'm building the Continental version, with the motor mount per BHP's
supplemental plans. I decided to use a 1/4" birch ply forward bulkhead to
back up the firewall and provide a support for the upper cowling. With all
of this material on the front, and no particular stresses (the engine mount
goes directly to the longerons), I used two 3/4" (I think) square ash cross
pieces gusseted to the forward uprights and glued to the forward bulkhead.
The engine mount brackets preclude structural pieces at the top and
bottom--I think I put the ash cross pieces at BHP's original locations where
the radiator floor would have been and about 6" off the cockpit floor. I
used a spruce filler strip across the cockpit floor to have something to
glue to, but it doesn't provide any real structure because the ends can't
meet the longerons.
Of course, this hasn't flown yet, so it's not "tested", but it seems to make
a pretty good package, and provides a good front support for the gas tank.
Let us know how your project goes.
Gene
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
At7000ft@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Ash engine support
Yes I have the Corvair mount plans, but I still need to use some kind of
cross member in place of that firewall ash brace don't I?
>I am building a long fuselage Piet with a Corvair and have a
>question about the the 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" horizontal ash engine support
>which attaches to the front fuselage vertical braces and firewall.
>Can see the need for it when installing a Ford engine but seems a
>bit hefty for a Corvair installation. Has anyone used a lighter
>piece for this like 1" x 3/4" spruce?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick H
Rick,
You don't use the ash at all for the Corvair. The Corvair uses a
completely different engine mount. If you don't have the plans, they
are available from the Pietenpols, or you can use the version
described in William Wynne's conversion manual.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Stromberg Carburetor |
Hey Gang,
I need to call upon your expertise regarding a carburetor that is not just
leaking gas, but pouring out. The carburetor is on an Cont. A-80 engine
attached to a GN-1.
Here is the rest of the story. The plane was last flown two years ago and
has been sitting idle in a hanger. (don=92t ask why it has not been flown=85..=85
=85that is another story) It had a =BC tank of auto gas and the gas tank
switched to the on-position. (another story)
Last weekend, the mechanic came out to do an annual. The compression
on all four cylinders was between 73-78 over 80. He then tried to start it.
After ten tries, the engine fired up and then died. The fuel switch was in
the
Off position. He tried to start it again but it would not. He then drained
all
of the old gas and put in $10.00 of Avgas. Again he tried and tried to
start
it but could not. He pushed it back into the hanger and came out again
the next morning. He found the carburetor leaked most of the gas but there
was enough to try to start it again. After a few turns of the prop, gas
just
poured out of the carburetor. He feels the carburetor should be overhauled
and bench tested.
I went through my paperwork and found the original receipt of the carburetor
and saw where the plane builder bought an overhauled and bench checked
Stromberg carburetor in 1983 from El Reno Aviation of Oklahoma for $259.00
(includes postage and insurance)
I called them this morning and found out they no longer do that kind of work
and recommended nearby Martin Inductions Systems. I talked to a Gene
Martin who said the car gas probably gummed up the inside works.
He said an overhaul would run $350.00. A needle and seat another
$200 and a float could run the bill up to $650.00. It would take about a
week to ten days for turnaround.
I called the previous owner of the plane and he said that being an
Experimental, I could carefully take the carburetor apart and clean
it. He felt 95% sure it was just gummed up from the car gas and prolonged
inactivity. He said carburetor cleaner, Q-tips and a clean cloth should
clean it up to working condition.
I feel his advice is worth taking however, I do not have a manual for the
carburetor as how to do the overhaul. Does anybody in this group have a
manual or can scan the procedure to me? Or do you know of a place online
where I could go and get this information?
Here are the particulars:
Stromberg NAS3A1 A18033B-4
I do not know if it has the Neoprene tip, steel or Delrin needle.
If I have to fix or replace the carburetor, where is the best place to send
it to
for repair or to shop for a replacement carburetor.
I live in Dallas but will drive anywhere within reason to get this
carburetor fixed.
Thanks guys for any insight or help you can provide.
Mike King
GN-1
Dallas
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Stromberg Carburetor |
Mogas is the worst thing you can put through a Stromberg. If you don't have the
stainless needle you'll most certainly have problems with Mogas.
I have an NAS-3A1 on my Corvair/GN-1. I plan to only use 100LL.
Also remember that the NAS-3A1 does not have mixture cut-off and the needles are
notorius for not sealing completely which will cause you to drain your entire
fuel tank unless you shut the fuel off before it gets to the carb.
I think the place that overhauls Strombergs is called Precision Aero or something
like that. Expect to pay big time though. You'd be better off buying the
manual from AS&S and doing the work yourself.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike King
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Hey Gang,
I need to call upon your expertise regarding a carburetor that is not just
leaking gas, but pouring out. The carburetor is on an Cont. A-80 engine
attached to a GN-1.
Here is the rest of the story. The plane was last flown two years ago and
has been sitting idle in a hanger. (don't ask why it has not been flown....
.that is another story) It had a =BC tank of auto gas and the gas tank
switched to the on-position. (another story)
Last weekend, the mechanic came out to do an annual. The compression
on all four cylinders was between 73-78 over 80. He then tried to start it.
After ten tries, the engine fired up and then died. The fuel switch was in the
Off position. He tried to start it again but it would not. He then drained all
of the old gas and put in $10.00 of Avgas. Again he tried and tried to start
it but could not. He pushed it back into the hanger and came out again
the next morning. He found the carburetor leaked most of the gas but there
was enough to try to start it again. After a few turns of the prop, gas just
poured out of the carburetor. He feels the carburetor should be overhauled
and bench tested.
I went through my paperwork and found the original receipt of the carburetor
and saw where the plane builder bought an overhauled and bench checked
Stromberg carburetor in 1983 from El Reno Aviation of Oklahoma for $259.00
(includes postage and insurance)
I called them this morning and found out they no longer do that kind of work
and recommended nearby Martin Inductions Systems. I talked to a Gene
Martin who said the car gas probably gummed up the inside works.
He said an overhaul would run $350.00. A needle and seat another
$200 and a float could run the bill up to $650.00. It would take about a
week to ten days for turnaround.
I called the previous owner of the plane and he said that being an
Experimental, I could carefully take the carburetor apart and clean
it. He felt 95% sure it was just gummed up from the car gas and prolonged
inactivity. He said carburetor cleaner, Q-tips and a clean cloth should
clean it up to working condition.
I feel his advice is worth taking however, I do not have a manual for the
carburetor as how to do the overhaul. Does anybody in this group have a
manual or can scan the procedure to me? Or do you know of a place online
where I could go and get this information?
Here are the particulars:
Stromberg NAS3A1 A18033B-4
I do not know if it has the Neoprene tip, steel or Delrin needle.
If I have to fix or replace the carburetor, where is the best place to send it
to
for repair or to shop for a replacement carburetor.
I live in Dallas but will drive anywhere within reason to get this carburetor fixed.
Thanks guys for any insight or help you can provide.
Mike King
GN-1
Dallas
Message 8
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| Subject: | Stromberg Carburetor |
DJ,
I appreciate the comments. Yes, I took some advice from someone about fuel
for a 1940 aviation engine. Anyway,
I tried Precision Aero and found it to be an R/C web site. Could the
Stromberg overhaul shop be under a different name?
Thanks again.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Mogas is the worst thing you can put through a Stromberg. If you don't have
the stainless needle you'll most certainly have problems with Mogas.
I have an NAS-3A1 on my Corvair/GN-1. I plan to only use 100LL.
Also remember that the NAS-3A1 does not have mixture cut-off and the needles
are notorius for not sealing completely which will cause you to drain your
entire fuel tank unless you shut the fuel off before it gets to the carb.
I think the place that overhauls Strombergs is called Precision Aero or
something like that. Expect to pay big time though. You'd be better off
buying the manual from AS&S and doing the work yourself.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike King <mailto:mike@mking.us>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Hey Gang,
I need to call upon your expertise regarding a carburetor that is not just
leaking gas, but pouring out. The carburetor is on an Cont. A-80 engine
attached to a GN-1.
Here is the rest of the story. The plane was last flown two years ago and
has been sitting idle in a hanger. (don=92t ask why it has not been flown=85..=85
=85that is another story) It had a =BC tank of auto gas and the gas tank
switched to the on-position. (another story)
Last weekend, the mechanic came out to do an annual. The compression
on all four cylinders was between 73-78 over 80. He then tried to start it.
After ten tries, the engine fired up and then died. The fuel switch was in
the
Off position. He tried to start it again but it would not. He then drained
all
of the old gas and put in $10.00 of Avgas. Again he tried and tried to
start
it but could not. He pushed it back into the hanger and came out again
the next morning. He found the carburetor leaked most of the gas but there
was enough to try to start it again. After a few turns of the prop, gas
just
poured out of the carburetor. He feels the carburetor should be overhauled
and bench tested.
I went through my paperwork and found the original receipt of the carburetor
and saw where the plane builder bought an overhauled and bench checked
Stromberg carburetor in 1983 from El Reno Aviation of Oklahoma for $259.00
(includes postage and insurance)
I called them this morning and found out they no longer do that kind of work
and recommended nearby Martin Inductions Systems. I talked to a Gene
Martin who said the car gas probably gummed up the inside works.
He said an overhaul would run $350.00. A needle and seat another
$200 and a float could run the bill up to $650.00. It would take about a
week to ten days for turnaround.
I called the previous owner of the plane and he said that being an
Experimental, I could carefully take the carburetor apart and clean
it. He felt 95% sure it was just gummed up from the car gas and prolonged
inactivity. He said carburetor cleaner, Q-tips and a clean cloth should
clean it up to working condition.
I feel his advice is worth taking however, I do not have a manual for the
carburetor as how to do the overhaul. Does anybody in this group have a
manual or can scan the procedure to me? Or do you know of a place online
where I could go and get this information?
Here are the particulars:
Stromberg NAS3A1 A18033B-4
I do not know if it has the Neoprene tip, steel or Delrin needle.
If I have to fix or replace the carburetor, where is the best place to send
it to
for repair or to shop for a replacement carburetor.
I live in Dallas but will drive anywhere within reason to get this
carburetor fixed.
Thanks guys for any insight or help you can provide.
Mike King
GN-1
Dallas
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Stromberg Carburetor |
Mike,
What DJ said about auto gas is on the money. After a few monthes my gascolator
gasket AND the gasket on the fuel cap, both started to distort. So I suspect
you have the neoprene needle in your carb like I did/do.
Get the parts and do it yourself. Only critical points are to document how far
any needles are in(count in half turns to fully closed) And you have to shim
the float needle seat to get a certain height of fuel in the bowl with a measured
column of fuel on the intake. Not hard to do,,,just fasten a piece of clear
tubibg to the wall and measure the height of gas in the bowl. If it's too
low/high dump it all out, reshim, and try again. Reassemble, replace the zillion
safety wires, and you're good to go.
If you're not comfortable with it, get the parts and the manual and get a friend
whose mechanically inclined. The manual is literally step by step.
I did my own and nothing flew off yet :
)
My biggest headache with the carb was to set the idle mixture screw. Once on an
approach, went to give it fuel from idle, and it coughed, sputtered, and started
puking black smoke. Finally got it right.
So check what the screw is before taking it apart
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike King
To: Pietenpol Discussion Group
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 4:34 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Hey Gang,
I need to call upon your expertise regarding a carburetor that is not just
leaking gas, but pouring out. The carburetor is on an Cont. A-80 engine
attached to a GN-1.
Here is the rest of the story. The plane was last flown two years ago and
has been sitting idle in a hanger. (don't ask why it has not been flown....
.that is another story) It had a =BC tank of auto gas and the gas tank
switched to the on-position. (another story)
Last weekend, the mechanic came out to do an annual. The compression
on all four cylinders was between 73-78 over 80. He then tried to start it.
After ten tries, the engine fired up and then died. The fuel switch was in the
Off position. He tried to start it again but it would not. He then drained
all
of the old gas and put in $10.00 of Avgas. Again he tried and tried to start
it but could not. He pushed it back into the hanger and came out again
the next morning. He found the carburetor leaked most of the gas but there
was enough to try to start it again. After a few turns of the prop, gas just
poured out of the carburetor. He feels the carburetor should be overhauled
and bench tested.
I went through my paperwork and found the original receipt of the carburetor
and saw where the plane builder bought an overhauled and bench checked
Stromberg carburetor in 1983 from El Reno Aviation of Oklahoma for $259.00
(includes postage and insurance)
I called them this morning and found out they no longer do that kind of work
and recommended nearby Martin Inductions Systems. I talked to a Gene
Martin who said the car gas probably gummed up the inside works.
He said an overhaul would run $350.00. A needle and seat another
$200 and a float could run the bill up to $650.00. It would take about a
week to ten days for turnaround.
I called the previous owner of the plane and he said that being an
Experimental, I could carefully take the carburetor apart and clean
it. He felt 95% sure it was just gummed up from the car gas and prolonged
inactivity. He said carburetor cleaner, Q-tips and a clean cloth should
clean it up to working condition.
I feel his advice is worth taking however, I do not have a manual for the
carburetor as how to do the overhaul. Does anybody in this group have a
manual or can scan the procedure to me? Or do you know of a place online
where I could go and get this information?
Here are the particulars:
Stromberg NAS3A1 A18033B-4
I do not know if it has the Neoprene tip, steel or Delrin needle.
If I have to fix or replace the carburetor, where is the best place to send it
to
for repair or to shop for a replacement carburetor.
I live in Dallas but will drive anywhere within reason to get this carburetor
fixed.
Thanks guys for any insight or help you can provide.
Mike King
GN-1
Dallas
Message 10
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| Subject: | Stromberg Carburetor |
Walt,
Great information. I really appreciate everyone=92s input.
I will not again put auto gas in my engine. Now that my health is better,
I will be flying my plane more often and will not go through this experience
again.
I do have a friend who is mechanically inclined. Now I need to get a manual
and
get started. I tried to find one online but will probably have to order one
from a
supply shop.
Thanks again for all the useful information.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of walt evans
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Mike,
What DJ said about auto gas is on the money. After a few monthes my
gascolator gasket AND the gasket on the fuel cap, both started to distort.
So I suspect you have the neoprene needle in your carb like I did/do.
Get the parts and do it yourself. Only critical points are to document how
far any needles are in(count in half turns to fully closed) And you have to
shim the float needle seat to get a certain height of fuel in the bowl with
a measured column of fuel on the intake. Not hard to do,,,just fasten a
piece of clear tubibg to the wall and measure the height of gas in the bowl.
If it's too low/high dump it all out, reshim, and try again. Reassemble,
replace the zillion safety wires, and you're good to go.
If you're not comfortable with it, get the parts and the manual and get a
friend whose mechanically inclined. The manual is literally step by step.
I did my own and nothing flew off yet :
)
My biggest headache with the carb was to set the idle mixture screw. Once
on an approach, went to give it fuel from idle, and it coughed, sputtered,
and started puking black smoke. Finally got it right.
So check what the screw is before taking it apart
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike King <mailto:mike@mking.us>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Hey Gang,
I need to call upon your expertise regarding a carburetor that is not just
leaking gas, but pouring out. The carburetor is on an Cont. A-80 engine
attached to a GN-1.
Here is the rest of the story. The plane was last flown two years ago and
has been sitting idle in a hanger. (don=92t ask why it has not been flown=85..=85
=85that is another story) It had a =BC tank of auto gas and the gas tank
switched to the on-position. (another story)
Last weekend, the mechanic came out to do an annual. The compression
on all four cylinders was between 73-78 over 80. He then tried to start it.
After ten tries, the engine fired up and then died. The fuel switch was in
the
Off position. He tried to start it again but it would not. He then drained
all
of the old gas and put in $10.00 of Avgas. Again he tried and tried to
start
it but could not. He pushed it back into the hanger and came out again
the next morning. He found the carburetor leaked most of the gas but there
was enough to try to start it again. After a few turns of the prop, gas
just
poured out of the carburetor. He feels the carburetor should be overhauled
and bench tested.
I went through my paperwork and found the original receipt of the carburetor
and saw where the plane builder bought an overhauled and bench checked
Stromberg carburetor in 1983 from El Reno Aviation of Oklahoma for $259.00
(includes postage and insurance)
I called them this morning and found out they no longer do that kind of work
and recommended nearby Martin Inductions Systems. I talked to a Gene
Martin who said the car gas probably gummed up the inside works.
He said an overhaul would run $350.00. A needle and seat another
$200 and a float could run the bill up to $650.00. It would take about a
week to ten days for turnaround.
I called the previous owner of the plane and he said that being an
Experimental, I could carefully take the carburetor apart and clean
it. He felt 95% sure it was just gummed up from the car gas and prolonged
inactivity. He said carburetor cleaner, Q-tips and a clean cloth should
clean it up to working condition.
I feel his advice is worth taking however, I do not have a manual for the
carburetor as how to do the overhaul. Does anybody in this group have a
manual or can scan the procedure to me? Or do you know of a place online
where I could go and get this information?
Here are the particulars:
Stromberg NAS3A1 A18033B-4
I do not know if it has the Neoprene tip, steel or Delrin needle.
If I have to fix or replace the carburetor, where is the best place to send
it to
for repair or to shop for a replacement carburetor.
I live in Dallas but will drive anywhere within reason to get this
carburetor fixed.
Thanks guys for any insight or help you can provide.
Mike King
GN-1
Dallas
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Stromberg Carburetor |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: BARNSTMR@aol.com
One thing to add to Walt's and DJ's excellent advice is to be sure to use shop
air and blow out all orifices clear after soaking parts in Carb Cleaner. Lacquer
thinner works well also, to break up that car gas varnish gum.
Terry B
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Stromberg Carburetor |
Mike,
Just keep one great tool in mind. The digital camera. Even the pictures are free,
no film to buy. Just take a pic before every piece it taken off , if you
want to. You can't go wrong. It all looks easy when it's all together, but look
at a basket of parts, and it's a different ballgame!
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike King
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 6:16 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Walt,
Great information. I really appreciate everyone's input.
I will not again put auto gas in my engine. Now that my health is better,
I will be flying my plane more often and will not go through this experience
again.
I do have a friend who is mechanically inclined. Now I need to get a manual
and
get started. I tried to find one online but will probably have to order one
from a
supply shop.
Thanks again for all the useful information.
Mike
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of walt evans
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 5:02 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Mike,
What DJ said about auto gas is on the money. After a few monthes my gascolator
gasket AND the gasket on the fuel cap, both started to distort. So I suspect
you have the neoprene needle in your carb like I did/do.
Get the parts and do it yourself. Only critical points are to document how far
any needles are in(count in half turns to fully closed) And you have to shim
the float needle seat to get a certain height of fuel in the bowl with a measured
column of fuel on the intake. Not hard to do,,,just fasten a piece of clear
tubibg to the wall and measure the height of gas in the bowl. If it's too
low/high dump it all out, reshim, and try again. Reassemble, replace the zillion
safety wires, and you're good to go.
If you're not comfortable with it, get the parts and the manual and get a friend
whose mechanically inclined. The manual is literally step by step.
I did my own and nothing flew off yet :
)
My biggest headache with the carb was to set the idle mixture screw. Once on
an approach, went to give it fuel from idle, and it coughed, sputtered, and started
puking black smoke. Finally got it right.
So check what the screw is before taking it apart
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Mike King
To: Pietenpol Discussion Group
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 4:34 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
Hey Gang,
I need to call upon your expertise regarding a carburetor that is not just
leaking gas, but pouring out. The carburetor is on an Cont. A-80 engine
attached to a GN-1.
Here is the rest of the story. The plane was last flown two years ago and
has been sitting idle in a hanger. (don't ask why it has not been flown....
.that is another story) It had a =BC tank of auto gas and the gas tank
switched to the on-position. (another story)
Last weekend, the mechanic came out to do an annual. The compression
on all four cylinders was between 73-78 over 80. He then tried to start it.
After ten tries, the engine fired up and then died. The fuel switch was in
the
Off position. He tried to start it again but it would not. He then drained
all
of the old gas and put in $10.00 of Avgas. Again he tried and tried to start
it but could not. He pushed it back into the hanger and came out again
the next morning. He found the carburetor leaked most of the gas but there
was enough to try to start it again. After a few turns of the prop, gas just
poured out of the carburetor. He feels the carburetor should be overhauled
and bench tested.
I went through my paperwork and found the original receipt of the carburetor
and saw where the plane builder bought an overhauled and bench checked
Stromberg carburetor in 1983 from El Reno Aviation of Oklahoma for $259.00
(includes postage and insurance)
I called them this morning and found out they no longer do that kind of work
and recommended nearby Martin Inductions Systems. I talked to a Gene
Martin who said the car gas probably gummed up the inside works.
He said an overhaul would run $350.00. A needle and seat another
$200 and a float could run the bill up to $650.00. It would take about a
week to ten days for turnaround.
I called the previous owner of the plane and he said that being an
Experimental, I could carefully take the carburetor apart and clean
it. He felt 95% sure it was just gummed up from the car gas and prolonged
inactivity. He said carburetor cleaner, Q-tips and a clean cloth should
clean it up to working condition.
I feel his advice is worth taking however, I do not have a manual for the
carburetor as how to do the overhaul. Does anybody in this group have a
manual or can scan the procedure to me? Or do you know of a place online
where I could go and get this information?
Here are the particulars:
Stromberg NAS3A1 A18033B-4
I do not know if it has the Neoprene tip, steel or Delrin needle.
If I have to fix or replace the carburetor, where is the best place to send
it to
for repair or to shop for a replacement carburetor.
I live in Dallas but will drive anywhere within reason to get this carburetor
fixed.
Thanks guys for any insight or help you can provide.
Mike King
GN-1
Dallas
Message 13
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| Subject: | Lift strut question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
I can't remember this question being asked. Probably because it is so
obvious, but I can't see it.
If you have to move the wing to balance the center of gravity doesn't that
throw off the alignment of the upper bolt holes where the lift strut
attaches to the wing? How do you handle this? Make the holes big enough to
allow for the movement? Hold off on drilling or welding until you know
where the wing will be placed?
Help.
Thanks, Ted Brousseau
Glad to be moving along enough to ask this question.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Ash engine support |
I put mine in anyway. There is a lot of weight hanging off the front. Any
help in my view is good.
Cheers
Peter.
Wonthaggi Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com <http://www.cpc-world.com/>
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
At7000ft@aol.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Ash engine support
Yes I have the Corvair mount plans, but I still need to use some kind of
cross member in place of that firewall ash brace don't I?
>I am building a long fuselage Piet with a Corvair and have a
>question about the the 1 1/4" x 1 1/2" horizontal ash engine support
>which attaches to the front fuselage vertical braces and firewall.
>Can see the need for it when installing a Ford engine but seems a
>bit hefty for a Corvair installation. Has anyone used a lighter
>piece for this like 1" x 3/4" spruce?
>
>Thanks
>
>Rick H
Rick,
You don't use the ash at all for the Corvair. The Corvair uses a
completely different engine mount. If you don't have the plans, they
are available from the Pietenpols, or you can use the version
described in William Wynne's conversion manual.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Lift strut question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 6/7/04 9:23:36 PM Central Daylight Time,
nfn00979@naples.net writes:
<< If you have to move the wing to balance the center of gravity doesn't that
throw off the alignment of the upper bolt holes where the lift strut
attaches to the wing? How do you handle this? Make the holes big enough to
allow for the movement? Hold off on drilling or welding until you know
where the wing will be placed? >>
Ted,
This is one of the many genius designs of Bernard Harold Pietenpol. I don't
know of any other aircraft, that has the plans type fittings on both ends of
the struts designed to allow movement of the wing. Ya just loosen all the
hardware on the struts and cabanes, and move the wing to the new location, and
tighten them back up, and use paint or torque seal on all the hardware. Do Not
oversize any holes. All drilled holes should be a good fit for the bolt. If
the wing has to be moved very far, new cables will have to be made up for the
lift struts, and the cables on the right side of the front cockpit.
Note: I've never heard of the wing needed to be moved forward, it's always
moved aft, to compensate for the notourious tail heavy condition of Pietenpols.
This is because B.H.P. was only about 160 lbs, and today's flyers average
around 200 lbs. This sets up the tail heavy condition. Moving the engine
forward a couple of inches from plans location, will help...especially if you're
the type that doesn't miss any meals !! :)
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
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