Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:26 AM - cables (WPTCorp@aol.com)
2. 05:31 AM - Re: Lift strut question (Michael D Cuy)
3. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: Stromberg Carburetor ()
4. 09:45 AM - Re: cables (DJ Vegh)
5. 11:16 AM - Aircampers in central Mississippi? (Jimmy Courtney)
6. 12:03 PM - Pietenpol Owners Directory------ Mississippi? (Michael D Cuy)
7. 06:05 PM - Stromberg carb problems (Alex Sloan)
8. 08:24 PM - Re: cables (Richard Navratil)
9. 08:58 PM - Re: cables (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
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Would someone please help me on cable tensions, I need to know for control
and also rigging. Thanks Dave
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Lift strut question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Ted-- The upper ends of the struts are open so they allow that 'strap'
fitting that slips in between the wing tab fittings to pivot a bit as you
move your wing back some. I moved my wing back 4" from the tops of the
cabane struts being vertical and the amount of change in that strap fitting
(angle-wise) is very small but it has room to move in that open-ended strut
end. This only applies if you use the plans design and not some of the
other designs I've seen out there where guys use two bolts in the wing
strut to hold that fitting in place. If you do that then the fitting can't
rotate or pivot in the innards of the end of the lift strut opening.
Mike C.
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Stromberg Carburetor |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Hi Mike,
One other tip, when you are overhauling your carburetor.
I bought the Stromberg overhaul kit from Fresno Airparts (inside front cover of
Trade-a-Plane) with the stainless steel needle valve. I assembled the carb and
then tested it and found that it leaked around the needle valve slightly (not
as bad as my J-3 Cub did years ago when I ran car gas in it). In order to
stop the leak, the needle valve and seat need to be "lapped" to get a good seal.
I found the easiest way to do this was to chuck the needle in my drill press
with it set to its slowest speed and then I applied regular Crest toothpaste
to the valve seat and pressed it up against the spinning needle. Crest toothpaste
is a very mild abrasive and makes a decent lapping compound. Once I did
this and reassembled the carb (after cleaning everything thoroughly, it was
totally leak free and worked like a champ. Mind you, I have not yet flown this
engine, so there might be other unforeseen problems.
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
Spraying color coats now on NX899JP
> From: "walt evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
> Date: 2004/06/07 Mon PM 06:02:00 EDT
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
>
> Mike,
> What DJ said about auto gas is on the money. After a few monthes my gascolator
gasket AND the gasket on the fuel cap, both started to distort. So I suspect
you have the neoprene needle in your carb like I did/do.
> Get the parts and do it yourself. Only critical points are to document how far
any needles are in(count in half turns to fully closed) And you have to shim
the float needle seat to get a certain height of fuel in the bowl with a measured
column of fuel on the intake. Not hard to do,,,just fasten a piece of clear
tubibg to the wall and measure the height of gas in the bowl. If it's too
low/high dump it all out, reshim, and try again. Reassemble, replace the zillion
safety wires, and you're good to go.
> If you're not comfortable with it, get the parts and the manual and get a friend
whose mechanically inclined. The manual is literally step by step.
> I did my own and nothing flew off yet :
)
> My biggest headache with the carb was to set the idle mixture screw. Once on
an approach, went to give it fuel from idle, and it coughed, sputtered, and started
puking black smoke. Finally got it right.
> So check what the screw is before taking it apart
> walt evans
> NX140DL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Mike King
> To: Pietenpol Discussion Group
> Sent: Monday, June 07, 2004 4:34 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stromberg Carburetor
>
>
> Hey Gang,
>
>
>
> I need to call upon your expertise regarding a carburetor that is not just
>
> leaking gas, but pouring out. The carburetor is on an Cont. A-80 engine
>
> attached to a GN-1.
>
>
>
> Here is the rest of the story. The plane was last flown two years ago and
>
> has been sitting idle in a hanger. (don't ask why it has not been flown....
>
> .that is another story) It had a tank of auto gas and the gas tank
>
> switched to the on-position. (another story)
>
>
>
> Last weekend, the mechanic came out to do an annual. The compression
>
> on all four cylinders was between 73-78 over 80. He then tried to start it.
>
> After ten tries, the engine fired up and then died. The fuel switch was in
the
>
> Off position. He tried to start it again but it would not. He then drained
all
>
> of the old gas and put in $10.00 of Avgas. Again he tried and tried to start
>
> it but could not. He pushed it back into the hanger and came out again
>
> the next morning. He found the carburetor leaked most of the gas but there
>
> was enough to try to start it again. After a few turns of the prop, gas just
>
> poured out of the carburetor. He feels the carburetor should be overhauled
>
> and bench tested.
>
>
>
> I went through my paperwork and found the original receipt of the carburetor
>
> and saw where the plane builder bought an overhauled and bench checked
>
> Stromberg carburetor in 1983 from El Reno Aviation of Oklahoma for $259.00
>
> (includes postage and insurance)
>
>
>
> I called them this morning and found out they no longer do that kind of work
>
> and recommended nearby Martin Inductions Systems. I talked to a Gene
>
> Martin who said the car gas probably gummed up the inside works.
>
>
>
> He said an overhaul would run $350.00. A needle and seat another
>
> $200 and a float could run the bill up to $650.00. It would take about a
>
> week to ten days for turnaround.
>
>
>
> I called the previous owner of the plane and he said that being an
>
> Experimental, I could carefully take the carburetor apart and clean
>
> it. He felt 95% sure it was just gummed up from the car gas and prolonged
>
> inactivity. He said carburetor cleaner, Q-tips and a clean cloth should
>
> clean it up to working condition.
>
>
>
> I feel his advice is worth taking however, I do not have a manual for the
>
> carburetor as how to do the overhaul. Does anybody in this group have a
>
> manual or can scan the procedure to me? Or do you know of a place online
>
> where I could go and get this information?
>
>
>
> Here are the particulars:
>
> Stromberg NAS3A1 A18033B-4
>
> I do not know if it has the Neoprene tip, steel or Delrin needle.
>
>
>
> If I have to fix or replace the carburetor, where is the best place to send
it to
>
> for repair or to shop for a replacement carburetor.
>
>
>
> I live in Dallas but will drive anywhere within reason to get this carburetor
fixed.
>
>
>
> Thanks guys for any insight or help you can provide.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Mike King
>
> GN-1
>
> Dallas
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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my controls are somewhere near 20lb. (one cable goes slack at extremes anyway)
my cabane X bracing is about 60lb. my plans don't show the tensions but I
based mine on what I have seen on other aircraft.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: WPTCorp@aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cables
Would someone please help me on cable tensions, I need to know for control and
also rigging. Thanks Dave
Message 5
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| Subject: | Aircampers in central Mississippi? |
Hello!
I bought a set of plans from Don Pietenpol about 6 months ago and I'm looking for
any builders in central Mississippi to visit with. I'll be finshed with the
shop and starting construction next month. I know of one fellow who is building
the "steel-tubing fuselage" version (he flys his fine old Baby Ace to every
flyin that he can reach). I will be building the wood version of the Air Camper.
Anyone is welcome to contact me at jbciii5656@yahoo.com or 601-540-6505.
Thanks and good air to all!
Jim Courtney
---------------------------------
Message 6
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| Subject: | Pietenpol Owners Directory------ Mississippi? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Jim-- Doc Mosher sells a complete registered Piet/GN-1 listing that he has
compiled for us and offers it for $5. Ask him for the Pietenpol Owner
Directory. Doc Mosher, 1071 Meadow Lane, Neenah, WI 54956 (920) 727-1534.
docshop@tds.net He's into the 5th or 6th printing already I
believe. A great guy and great Piet supporter Doc is.
Mike C.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Stromberg carb problems |
Mike King,
Please contact me at alexms1@bellsouth.net. I have some thoughts to share on your
carb problems.
Alex Sloan
Message 8
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For the rigging, they need to have roughly even pressure. The easiest way to find
that is to pluk them like a guitar string. If they fwang they are too loose,
if they ping they are too tight. Try for a twang on all, then sight down
the spars for final adjustments.
This works basically for the tail too.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: WPTCorp@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cables
Would someone please help me on cable tensions, I need to know for control and
also rigging. Thanks Dave
Message 9
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 6/8/04 10:25:24 PM Central Daylight Time,
horzpool@goldengate.net writes:
<< For the rigging, they need to have roughly even pressure. The easiest way
to find that is to pluk them like a guitar string. If they fwang they are
too loose, if they ping they are too tight. Try for a twang on all, then sight
down the spars for final adjustments.
This works basically for the tail too.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: WPTCorp@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 08, 2004 7:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cables
Would someone please help me on cable tensions, I need to know for control
and also rigging. Thanks Dave >>
Dave,
The fwang, ping, and twang method works great for the rigging cables, but the
control cables should NOT have any tension on them. Take the slack out, and
that's it...no tension. For the four control cables from the bell crank, to
the flippers, the extreeme limits of the surfaces is the position where they
will have to be rigged. This is the position where the cables are the tightest.
If you take the slack out of the cables with the flippers in neutral, they
will be WAY too tight when the they move to the stops. This is one of the
little quarks about the Pietenpol.
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
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