Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:35 AM - Re: Horizontal stab attach idea (Michael D Cuy)
2. 04:53 AM - Re: Flying adventure (Michael D Cuy)
3. 05:08 AM - Re: Front rudder bar (rhartwig11@juno.com)
4. 05:08 AM - Re: Front rudder bar (rhartwig11@juno.com)
5. 06:17 AM - Re: accurate wood list (Rick Holland)
6. 08:36 AM - Re: Top & Bottom Struts (Rcaprd@aol.com)
7. 08:41 AM - Table Saw Safety (Rcaprd@aol.com)
8. 08:56 AM - Re: Table Saw Safety (del magsam)
9. 09:25 AM - Re: Table Saw Safety (DJ Vegh)
10. 10:19 AM - step a side with your push stick too (Michael D Cuy)
11. 11:01 AM - Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety (Jim Ash)
12. 11:16 AM - Re: Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety (N321TX@wmconnect.com)
13. 12:57 PM - Re: Table Saw Safety (walt evans)
14. 01:45 PM - Re: Table Saw Safety - now drill press (DJ Vegh)
15. 04:12 PM - Re: Table Saw Safety - now drill press (walt evans)
16. 05:38 PM - America Tour part 1 (Rcaprd@aol.com)
17. 07:39 PM - Re:Top & Bottom Struts (Catdesign)
18. 07:40 PM - Elevator control cables (Ted Brousseau)
19. 07:40 PM - Wooden control stick (Ted Brousseau)
20. 09:18 PM - More on welding (Catdesign)
21. 09:37 PM - Re: step a side with your push stick too (Catdesign)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Horizontal stab attach idea |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>Did you use any Locktite on that?
>
>DJ
DJ-- I forget. I know I dipped the hardware (all of my hardware that
went thru wood) in varnish during the final assy., but don't recall using
locktite.
Mike (good idea tho)
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Flying adventure |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
GREAT story Ted. Wow, you got to do some real sightseeing on your way to
Lakeland and to fly over
Rhinebeck and the Hudson River. There is zero place to land there----but
it is gorgeous. When we took a tour
of the Vanderbilt Mansion there a few years back, their backyard overlooks
the Hudson wayyyy down there.
They said that old Waco's etc. used to fly up and down the river every
morning and deliver newspapers-----by dropping
them (wrapped up) in the yards of the rich folk that lived there. They
say quite a few planes went in the river doing that
due to engine problems, weather, etc.
Mike C.
do not archive
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Front rudder bar |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
"concerning moving the rudder bar to the front cockpit and connecting the
rear pedals to the front rudder bar using solid tubing as has been
discussed on this group"
Rick,
Others have done this successfully, hopefully they will chime in. There
has been a lot said about doing things the way Bernard did
them......well......on the "Last Original" built by Bernard there is no
rudder bar. So, I guess sometimes even Bernard didn't follow the plans.
That plane is owned by Bill Knight of Brodhead.
Some have even suggested putting a "rudder bar" behind the rear seat--I
haven't thought that one through.
Dick Hartwig
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Front rudder bar |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com
"concerning moving the rudder bar to the front cockpit and connecting the
rear pedals to the front rudder bar using solid tubing as has been
discussed on this group"
Rick,
Others have done this successfully, hopefully they will chime in. There
has been a lot said about doing things the way Bernard did
them......well......on the "Last Original" built by Bernard there is no
rudder bar. So, I guess sometimes even Bernard didn't follow the plans.
That plane is owned by Bill Knight of Brodhead.
Some have even suggested putting a "rudder bar" behind the rear seat--I
haven't thought that one through.
Dick Hartwig
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: accurate wood list |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@hotmail.com>
AS should recognize the wood kit list, I got it from them in the first
place.
>Rick,
>
>Thanks, I've forwarded your list to AS&S. If this didn't happen to me
>(wrong kit), it would almost be funny. I have no doubt AS&S will do the
>right thing here.
>
>Stacy
>
>
>
hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Top & Bottom Struts |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 9/13/04 1:25:06 AM Central Daylight Time,
stacy@unicom-alaska.com writes:
<< Chuck,
No, I'm speaking of the literal top and bottom fuselage struts and braces
(diagonals) connecting the two sides of the fuselage together. The top and
bottom "bridge trusses," if you will. In pics that I see the top & bottom
struts/braces meet at the points that the side's struts and braces meet,
making (if you were looking at it on the inside from front to back) squares
all the way down with the diagonals running on all sides between the
squares. On the plans however it appears the top and bottom struts and
braces have nothing to do with where the side's struts and braces glue to
the longerons. Clear as mud now? :-) >>
Stacy,
I think once you begin to assemble the fuselage sides together, the
method will become clear. Keep in mind the lower cabane strut metal fittings,
attach to the top of the #3 and #5 vertical struts. Therefore, the horizontal
struts cannot intersect this point...it must be offset a little, to allow the
metal fittings to capture the sides of the #3 and #5 vertical struts. Plywood
carries the load through this type joint. Be sure you drill straight, accurate
holes at these attach points.
Chuck G.
Message 7
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Subject: | Table Saw Safety |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that sawdust.
Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just below
the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more digits
than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your fingers
!!
Chuck G.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Table Saw Safety |
I used to own a carbide sales and service business, and I got into a lot of wood
shops. whenever I saw someone without their fingers I asked how it happened,
9 times out of 10 it was because they reached around behind the blade to pull
a piece thru the blade. whenever I saw anybody doing that I told them that it
was just a matter of time before they would loose some fingers. use those push
sticks to PUSH stuff thru!!! and my favorite is a long flat edge of a board
with a notch at the end to both hold the piece down and push it thru. and when
in doubt use the featherboards to hold your work. and clamp small pieces to
large pieces to cut.
Del
Rcaprd@aol.com wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that sawdust.
Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just below
the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more digits
than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your fingers
!!
Chuck G.
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
---------------------------------
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Table Saw Safety |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table saws
and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT!
You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a breathing,
living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you lose
respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part.
My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first
accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got
whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs old.
so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to go
until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of course I
still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada yada
yada.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rcaprd@aol.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
>
> I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that
sawdust.
> Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just
below
> the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more
digits
> than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your
fingers
> !!
>
> Chuck G.
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | step a side with your push stick too |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Gosh, I don't think I ever got relaxed with using the table saw, and I'm
glad of that. In addition to what
Farmer Del M. said about using push sticks, (I used two of them---one to
push and the other to keep the material
against the fence) I would stay off to one side or the other slightly
rather than standing directly behind the blade path------
that is after a piece of wood kicked back and left a huge black and blue
mark just above my belt line.
I got the saw for free---a used Craftsman, but spent $60 bucks on a carbide
tipped blade that still cuts like butter.
The best monies I ever spent were on that blade and Tony's books.
Mike C.
Message 11
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Subject: | Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
The scary tools for me are those that are a little less obvious; bench grinders
and hydraulic presses come to mind. These tools are considered relatively benign,
but a cracked grinding wheel can suddenly send large chunks of material flying
somewhere in a hurry. And I was pressing apart a bearing in my press that,
unbeknownst to me, wasn't pressed together. I had a good lean going on the
machine when the outer race broke (with a bang) and bearings shot across my garage
like buckshot. Fortunately, my press has bad aim and I walked away unscathed.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
From: DJ Vegh <djv@imagedv.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table saws
and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT!
You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a breathing,
living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you lose
respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part.
...
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety |
When I was a young TV news report many years ago, I covered a story of a poor
fellow who was killed when the tank on his air compressor blew up. I was
reminded of my tour of duty in Vietnam. Shrapnel went everywhere and this guy
suffered a painful, bloody death. When I arrived at the scene, I thought Charlie
had fired a mortar into this guys shop. The moral of this tragic story is to
DRAIN your air tank every day and don't let water accumulate in the tank. (For
that matter, don't let water accumulate in your Air Camper either, or you'll
end up with a rotted out fuselage. Either way, rotted fuselage or rusted tank
is a recipe for disaster.
S.B.
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Table Saw Safety |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
Yeah, one of the most bizzare accidents that I heard of when it comes to
common tools that we can use every day is,,,If you read the dangers on the
package of one of those long drill bits ( about 18" or so) ""Don't use in a
drill press"". The bit isn't strong enough to stay straight at high speed.
It instantly bends to become a big propellor right about at throat level.
Wouldn't know what hit you.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
>
> yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table
saws
> and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT!
>
> You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a
breathing,
> living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you lose
> respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part.
>
> My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first
> accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got
> whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs old.
>
> so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to go
> until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of course I
> still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada yada
> yada.
>
> DJ
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <Rcaprd@aol.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:41 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
> >
> > I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that
> sawdust.
> > Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just
> below
> > the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more
> digits
> > than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your
> fingers
> > !!
> >
> > Chuck G.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Table Saw Safety - now drill press |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
the one thing that scares me is watching someone drilling through a piece of
steel without clamping the piece... I cringe when I see the piece being
drilled is not clamped but rather being held by hand.
Once that bit gets near the end of the piece you all know what happens....
It took me once to find that out the hard way... a pretty nasty gash as a
.063" piece of 4130 strap swung around and sliced me open like a knife.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "walt evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
>
> Yeah, one of the most bizzare accidents that I heard of when it comes to
> common tools that we can use every day is,,,If you read the dangers on the
> package of one of those long drill bits ( about 18" or so) ""Don't use in
a
> drill press"". The bit isn't strong enough to stay straight at high
speed.
> It instantly bends to become a big propellor right about at throat level.
> Wouldn't know what hit you.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 12:25 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
> >
> > yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table
> saws
> > and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT!
> >
> > You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a
> breathing,
> > living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you
lose
> > respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part.
> >
> > My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first
> > accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got
> > whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs
old.
> >
> > so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to go
> > until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of course
I
> > still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada
yada
> > yada.
> >
> > DJ
> >
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: <Rcaprd@aol.com>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:41 AM
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
> >
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
> > >
> > > I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that
> > sawdust.
> > > Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just
> > below
> > > the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off
more
> > digits
> > > than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your
> > fingers
> > > !!
> > >
> > > Chuck G.
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Table Saw Safety - now drill press |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
One more for the "ugly story pool" guy in work on a big drill press (that
doesn't stop) drilling a strange shapped piece,,,it grabbed and spun. took
off the nail and meat of the ring finger and the middle. I was amazed that
it was about 10 hours before they reattached the didgets. Even with keeping
all on ice, I was surprised the they took. Still you're talking months of
Owies
walt evans
NX140DL
do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety - now drill press
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
>
> the one thing that scares me is watching someone drilling through a piece
of
> steel without clamping the piece... I cringe when I see the piece being
> drilled is not clamped but rather being held by hand.
>
> Once that bit gets near the end of the piece you all know what happens....
> It took me once to find that out the hard way... a pretty nasty gash as a
> .063" piece of 4130 strap swung around and sliced me open like a knife.
>
> DJ
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "walt evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 12:56 PM
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans"
<wbeevans@verizon.net>
> >
> > Yeah, one of the most bizzare accidents that I heard of when it comes to
> > common tools that we can use every day is,,,If you read the dangers on
the
> > package of one of those long drill bits ( about 18" or so) ""Don't use
in
> a
> > drill press"". The bit isn't strong enough to stay straight at high
> speed.
> > It instantly bends to become a big propellor right about at throat
level.
> > Wouldn't know what hit you.
> > walt evans
> > NX140DL
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 12:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
> >
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" <djv@imagedv.com>
> > >
> > > yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table
> > saws
> > > and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT!
> > >
> > > You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a
> > breathing,
> > > living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you
> lose
> > > respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part.
> > >
> > > My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first
> > > accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got
> > > whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs
> old.
> > >
> > > so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to
go
> > > until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of
course
> I
> > > still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada
> yada
> > > yada.
> > >
> > > DJ
> > >
> > >
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: <Rcaprd@aol.com>
> > > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:41 AM
> > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety
> > >
> > >
> > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
> > > >
> > > > I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that
> > > sawdust.
> > > > Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb,
just
> > > below
> > > > the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off
> more
> > > digits
> > > > than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your
> > > fingers
> > > > !!
> > > >
> > > > Chuck G.
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | America Tour part 1 |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
All right, I'm gong to start posting some stories about my Big Adventure.
It seemed like everyone I talked with, was a bit envious of this little
cross country flight. Life should be Fun and Adventurous...right ?? This trip
certainly fit the bill.
One of my primary objectives, was that I will NEVER be in a hurry, and
always try to be well rested. This will be a series of posts, starting with the
first leg, but I should start out with the Preparation:
I did a LOT of work on my plane, in the months prior to departure. I
built spring struts to replace the bunji struts. That was lots of fit & trim
work (the Brits call it 'Fit and Fiddle'), as I had to build them to work with
the existing fittings. I also built four new EL brackets on the inside, where
the gear lug / lift strut attach points are. I made the two front ones a
little long, bent them inboard, and drilled 1/4" holes to use as hard points, for
securing baggage. I also installed fittings on the lower engine mounts, to
secure cargo. This type rework gave me the chance to re-rig the wing, to take
care of a little bit of 'Left Wing Heavy'. I built a battery box out of
fiberglass / polyester resin, and added a small sealed lead acid battery to the
firewall. It was about $20 @ Interstate Battery. The main reason for the battery
was to provide reliable voltage to the GPS. I'm sold on the GPS. now that it
is a much more reliable...it was flawless. Last years trip to Brodhead, with
the 3 little AA batteries, that thing crapped out on me 3 times in flight !!
The other items that the battery was installed for, is the handheld com radio,
and the Smoke System. I wasn't able to get the plug from Radio Shack to work
with the handheld, so it operated with it's self contained battery pack. Now
that I have a battery, I have to keep it charged, so I came up with the idea
of a Solar Charger. I found a solar trickle charger at Harbor Freight for
about $20, but it had a red plastic frame around it. I removed the plastic
housing, to reveal a piece of glass that the photovolactic cells were in. I used
a
double layer of electric tape around the periphery of the glass, and fabric
cloth and poly tac, and patched it to the top aft edge of the wing, to the left
side of the cockpit. With the solar cell secure, I ran the wire down across
the bottom of the wing, secured with color coded 90 mph duct tape. I tapped it
into the wire harness, behind the instrument panel. To monitor voltage, I
bought a little 12v voltage tester at Harbor Freight, for $3. It has a row of
five LED's, that show line voltage. The more of them that are lit, the more
available voltage. I wired the monitor into the harness. The battery voltage
goes directly to a 4 amp breaker, mounted to the lower right side of the panel,
before it is tapped into the harness. With the breaker pulled, I can see how
much the sun provides, and when I push in the breaker, the battery voltage is
added. The Solar Cell was not enough to keep up with the demand of the smoke
pump motor, but it could easily keep up with the GPS. However, during the
entire 26 day trip, I only had to charge the 12v battery one time.
With the airframe, engine, B.F.R. and class 3 medical complete, it comes
time to pack the plane. I packed, unpacked, repacked the plane 4 or 5 times,
rearranging stuff, trying make it fit better, and off loading some more stuff
each time. The 'Chair in a Bag' had to stay. Big heavy leather motorcycle
jacket had to stay. Extra blue jeans, and some shirts had to stay. The
question is - What should be packed for a month long journey, and What could be
left
behind? Weight is the crucial factor. The final weight of my cargo was 65
lbs. I couldn't have carried that much cargo, if I had the controls in the
front pit.
Packed and ready to go, I started the engine, climbed in, and realized
I'm finally on the way !! After a little prayer for a safe journey, and a big
"YEEE HAAAWWW, I took off and pointed the nose to the South. There were 3 guys
that watched me depart, so I puffed 'em some big dashed lines in the sky !!
It was late afternoon, and I could only make one leg, but I'm on the way. OK,
here it is, the middle of July, and the winds are out of the North. The
winds are almost Never out of the North this time of year. I have a tailwind !!
And the tailwind continued for the two days it took to get to Tick Hill Field.
I was seeing groundspeeds well over 80 mph !! Zero Charlie Gulf has never
seen sustained speeds over the terrain like this. I patted her on the
longeron, and said "Now don't you get too spoiled on speed !!" The evening hours
are
the very best time of day to fly. Clear skies, thermals settle down, thumb
and finger stick control, the noise muffled down to a tolerable rate, all God's
creation slipping beneath the wings, I found the 'Zone'. All things are right
in the world.
7/17/04 Cook (K50) - Cushing Ok. (CUH)
115 mi. 80 mph 1.4 hrs.
5:35 to 7:00 126.69 tach hrs.
On approach to Cushing, I heard the radio call that jumpers were in the air.
OK, heads up...we don't want to splat any jumpers on the windshield !! We
landed about an hour before dusk, fueled up, paid cash, and pitched the tent.
I
was invited to the jumpers hanger for some beer & pizza, and to watch the
video's from the camera's that they wear on their head. They get some awesome
shots of what they do in free fall. Three of them made a night jump, with the
required strobe light attached to their ankle. They pointed some car
headlights in the landing area, and two of them landed in the lighted area. Another
one landed outside the lighted area, and came down with a loud 'UMPH" !! He was
all right. In one sense it boggles my mind, why someone would jump out of a
perfectly good airplane, at 9,000 feet, into complete blackness. On the other
hand, it's all about the Adventure !! OK, I can understand that. Friendly
bunch, these skydivers are. The few women are fit and trim, and wear tight
spandex clothes !! Their attire held few secrets !! They were all interested in
my story, too. If one of them would have chose to go with me, I would have
gladly left all 65 lbs of baggage behind !!
Oklahoma Skydiving Center www.skydiveok.com
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
The Adventure Begins !!
Message 17
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Subject: | Re:Top & Bottom Struts |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Catdesign" <catdesign@intergate.com>
Stacy,
Yes, I think you're missing something here.
From the back seat aft, the cross braces holding the two sides together (or
is that apart?) should line up with the verticals in the fuselage sides.
Try this, look at the "Layout for the Side of Fuselage" drawing near the top
of sheet 1. Look for the verticals labeled 7 (at the rear seat back) 9, 11,
13. Now look at the "Inside Constructional View of Fuselage" drawing near
the middle of the sheet, you will see a dimension of 28". This dimension is
from the front edge of the upper 3/4" x 3/4" cross strut support at the top
of the back seat to the next cross brace. Now, if you look back at the
"Layout for the Side of Fuselage" drawing you will see the dimension 27-1/4"
for the distance between verticals 7 and 9 . But wait, this 27-1/4" is from
the back edge of 7, so if you add the " thickness to 27-1/4" you get the
28" shown on the "Inside Constructional View of Fuselage" drawing. From
there on back, the dimensions are the same on both drawings so they should
line up with the verticals too. The bottom cross braces are the same, as
the top.
I should add that the aft Ash cross member does not line up with the cluster
formed by members 4, 5, and 6. It's slightly ahead of it. However, the
front Ash cross member does line up with the cluster formed by verticals 2
and 3.
Chris Tracy.
Sacramento, Ca
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Stacy Clark"
<stacy@unicom-alaska.com>
>
> Subject: Top & Bottom Struts and Braces
> From: Stacy Clark (stacy@unicom-alaska.com)
> Date: Fri Sep 10 - 5:16 AM
>
> Am I missing something here? Looking at the plans (1933 short fuselage)
the
> top
> and bottom struts and braces don't line up with the fuselage sides struts
> and
> braces. However, every single picture I look at (from various builders)
> shows
> them lining up (i.e.: a box pattern). My fuselage sides "are" correct.
>
> Stacy
>
>
Message 18
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Subject: | Elevator control cables |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
I detect that the front cables tighten and loosen at different rates between
full back and full forward on the control stick. I wonder if anyone has
offset the cable attachpoints on the stick to account for this and keep the
tension even?
Ted Brousseau
Naples, FL
Message 19
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Subject: | Wooden control stick |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
I have a variation of the wooden control stick debate. Years ago I had a
passenger board at a charity event and I was worried about his motivations.
It went well, but I immediately sawed of the front stick and inserted a
broom stick so I could remove the front stick easily. This came in handy
when filling the front passenger compartment full of gear on long X-C.
Last year a biplane crashed because they believe a passenger in the front
collapsed and forced the stick forward. I decided the best solution would
be to make the same change I had already made except use balsa instead.
This way I could leave in the stick for the passenger to use, but if he/she
tried to overpower me, I would win because the front stick would break away.
Just a thought.
Ted Brousseau
Message 20
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Catdesign" <catdesign@intergate.com>
No one really asked but this was one of my big unknowns going into this
project
so I figure I would put this out there so others can get an idea what I
decided to use for welding the fittings.
Welding. I'm NOT A PRO OR CERTIFIED WELDER
I use a Victor (clone) type welding torch ($375 with kart and tanks). It's
been fine for most of things I have welded. I purchased 40cf Oxygen and
Acetylene tanks that last me
about 6 months to a year depending on the amount of practice welding and
fixing stuff for the neighbors. I would not recommend smaller tanks. As for
tips, I have one each of the 000, 00, 0 tips ($20 each) and they have worked
out fine. I used the larger tip to heat metal for bending and
squishing but I really should get a rose-bud tip for this purpose. The
smaller 000 worked great on the thin metal but mostly I use the 00 size. I
have trouble welding 1/4" plate to 1/4" plate with the tips I have.
I use mild steel rods as these are recommended for 4130. I do not remove
the brass coating on the rod but I think I will in the future as I have read
it might be bad . I read that your a not supposed to use 4130 filler rod
unless you are post heating welds (Finch welding book) (post heating should
not be confused with stress relieving with the torch). I recently picked
up some ER70S TIG rod, as I have seen this discussed as a good gas rod as
well as TIG rod.
I recently purchased a Meco Midget torch body ($115?) and a full set of tips
(only 8 bucks
each). I have not used it yet but it's tinny and cute. I saw it
demonstrated at an air show and it seemed to work fine. Nice and small and
easy to hold. I have trouble with holding the Victor in the right place at
times. One thing to watch out for with this torch is my Victor has flash
back arrestors built into the torch body but the Meco Midget doesn't. So I
had to buy separate flash
back arrestors (another 40 bucks). Also the hoses are smaller so I had to
get reduces (20 bucks) and hose (25 bucks).
I use the plane old gas-welding shade 4(?) lens. I can't afford the nice
$100 dollar ones. I have yet to find a good fitting pair.
Finches Performance Welding book is a good reference.
EAAs welding book and video are ok.
BRAZING
Think of brazing as gluing two pieces of metal together with another metal.
You only have to heat the base metal hot enough to melt the brazing rod (you
don't melt the rod in the flame). Contrary to what some believe, brazing is
not necessarily weaker then welding. If you use the correct braze material
it can be stronger then the base metal. As I understand it, 4130 does not
react well to brazing because the braze gets into the crystalline structure
and can cause cracks when it cools. Not a good thing. So I weld all my 4130
fittings.
For what it's worth
Chris Tracy.
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Mike Luther" <luther@gci.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Welding torch
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Mike Luther <luther@gci.net>
>
> Ron:
>
> I used the special Tinmantech lens for Gas welding aluminum and it works
> beautifully. Worth every penny ($100) for Aluminum, but not necessary
for
> 4130 Chrome Molly.
>
> Mike L.
>
> Franck wrote:
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Franck <franck@geneseo.net>
> >
> > I'm contemplating the purchase of the Meco Midget welding torch. For
those
> > of you who have actual experience using this product, what are your
> > re-actions and recommendations concerning this product? What size
welding
> > tips and what other accessories should the end user consider? How about
a
> > evaluation of the special welding lenses offered by
> > http://www.tinmantech.com/html/tm2000.html? Thanks, Ron Franck
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: step a side with your push stick too |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Catdesign" <catdesign@intergate.com>
I bought one of these Grip-tite magnetic feather boards ($39) and I love it!
I highly recommend this product. No need to use your left hand to hold the
board against the fence anymore. Its easy to put in place holds the wood
tight against the fence.
I can't afford to loose anymore digits as I lost a finger tip to a front
door in 69' and sawed half way through my left thumb with a table saw in
83'. I sill get a cold chill down my spine when I use the table saw.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael D Cuy" <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: step a side with your push stick too
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
<Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>
> Gosh, I don't think I ever got relaxed with using the table saw, and I'm
> glad of that. In addition to what
> Farmer Del M. said about using push sticks, (I used two of them---one to
> push and the other to keep the material
> against the fence) I would stay off to one side or the other slightly
> rather than standing directly behind the blade path------
> that is after a piece of wood kicked back and left a huge black and blue
> mark just above my belt line.
>
> I got the saw for free---a used Craftsman, but spent $60 bucks on a
carbide
> tipped blade that still cuts like butter.
> The best monies I ever spent were on that blade and Tony's books.
>
> Mike C.
>
>
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