---------------------------------------------------------- Pietenpol-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 09/13/04: 21 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:35 AM - Re: Horizontal stab attach idea (Michael D Cuy) 2. 04:53 AM - Re: Flying adventure (Michael D Cuy) 3. 05:08 AM - Re: Front rudder bar (rhartwig11@juno.com) 4. 05:08 AM - Re: Front rudder bar (rhartwig11@juno.com) 5. 06:17 AM - Re: accurate wood list (Rick Holland) 6. 08:36 AM - Re: Top & Bottom Struts (Rcaprd@aol.com) 7. 08:41 AM - Table Saw Safety (Rcaprd@aol.com) 8. 08:56 AM - Re: Table Saw Safety (del magsam) 9. 09:25 AM - Re: Table Saw Safety (DJ Vegh) 10. 10:19 AM - step a side with your push stick too (Michael D Cuy) 11. 11:01 AM - Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety (Jim Ash) 12. 11:16 AM - Re: Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety (N321TX@wmconnect.com) 13. 12:57 PM - Re: Table Saw Safety (walt evans) 14. 01:45 PM - Re: Table Saw Safety - now drill press (DJ Vegh) 15. 04:12 PM - Re: Table Saw Safety - now drill press (walt evans) 16. 05:38 PM - America Tour part 1 (Rcaprd@aol.com) 17. 07:39 PM - Re:Top & Bottom Struts (Catdesign) 18. 07:40 PM - Elevator control cables (Ted Brousseau) 19. 07:40 PM - Wooden control stick (Ted Brousseau) 20. 09:18 PM - More on welding (Catdesign) 21. 09:37 PM - Re: step a side with your push stick too (Catdesign) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:35:02 AM PST US From: Michael D Cuy Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Horizontal stab attach idea --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy >Did you use any Locktite on that? > >DJ DJ-- I forget. I know I dipped the hardware (all of my hardware that went thru wood) in varnish during the final assy., but don't recall using locktite. Mike (good idea tho) ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:53:23 AM PST US From: Michael D Cuy Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Flying adventure --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy GREAT story Ted. Wow, you got to do some real sightseeing on your way to Lakeland and to fly over Rhinebeck and the Hudson River. There is zero place to land there----but it is gorgeous. When we took a tour of the Vanderbilt Mansion there a few years back, their backyard overlooks the Hudson wayyyy down there. They said that old Waco's etc. used to fly up and down the river every morning and deliver newspapers-----by dropping them (wrapped up) in the yards of the rich folk that lived there. They say quite a few planes went in the river doing that due to engine problems, weather, etc. Mike C. do not archive ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:08:58 AM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Front rudder bar From: rhartwig11@juno.com --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com "concerning moving the rudder bar to the front cockpit and connecting the rear pedals to the front rudder bar using solid tubing as has been discussed on this group" Rick, Others have done this successfully, hopefully they will chime in. There has been a lot said about doing things the way Bernard did them......well......on the "Last Original" built by Bernard there is no rudder bar. So, I guess sometimes even Bernard didn't follow the plans. That plane is owned by Bill Knight of Brodhead. Some have even suggested putting a "rudder bar" behind the rear seat--I haven't thought that one through. Dick Hartwig ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 05:08:58 AM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Front rudder bar From: rhartwig11@juno.com --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: rhartwig11@juno.com "concerning moving the rudder bar to the front cockpit and connecting the rear pedals to the front rudder bar using solid tubing as has been discussed on this group" Rick, Others have done this successfully, hopefully they will chime in. There has been a lot said about doing things the way Bernard did them......well......on the "Last Original" built by Bernard there is no rudder bar. So, I guess sometimes even Bernard didn't follow the plans. That plane is owned by Bill Knight of Brodhead. Some have even suggested putting a "rudder bar" behind the rear seat--I haven't thought that one through. Dick Hartwig ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:17:39 AM PST US From: "Rick Holland" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: accurate wood list --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Rick Holland" AS should recognize the wood kit list, I got it from them in the first place. >Rick, > >Thanks, I've forwarded your list to AS&S. If this didn't happen to me >(wrong kit), it would almost be funny. I have no doubt AS&S will do the >right thing here. > >Stacy > > > hthttp://messenger.msn.click-url.com/go/onm00200471ave/direct/01/ ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:36:29 AM PST US From: Rcaprd@aol.com Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Top & Bottom Struts --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com In a message dated 9/13/04 1:25:06 AM Central Daylight Time, stacy@unicom-alaska.com writes: << Chuck, No, I'm speaking of the literal top and bottom fuselage struts and braces (diagonals) connecting the two sides of the fuselage together. The top and bottom "bridge trusses," if you will. In pics that I see the top & bottom struts/braces meet at the points that the side's struts and braces meet, making (if you were looking at it on the inside from front to back) squares all the way down with the diagonals running on all sides between the squares. On the plans however it appears the top and bottom struts and braces have nothing to do with where the side's struts and braces glue to the longerons. Clear as mud now? :-) >> Stacy, I think once you begin to assemble the fuselage sides together, the method will become clear. Keep in mind the lower cabane strut metal fittings, attach to the top of the #3 and #5 vertical struts. Therefore, the horizontal struts cannot intersect this point...it must be offset a little, to allow the metal fittings to capture the sides of the #3 and #5 vertical struts. Plywood carries the load through this type joint. Be sure you drill straight, accurate holes at these attach points. Chuck G. ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:41:27 AM PST US From: Rcaprd@aol.com Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that sawdust. Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just below the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more digits than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your fingers !! Chuck G. ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:56:18 AM PST US From: del magsam Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety I used to own a carbide sales and service business, and I got into a lot of wood shops. whenever I saw someone without their fingers I asked how it happened, 9 times out of 10 it was because they reached around behind the blade to pull a piece thru the blade. whenever I saw anybody doing that I told them that it was just a matter of time before they would loose some fingers. use those push sticks to PUSH stuff thru!!! and my favorite is a long flat edge of a board with a notch at the end to both hold the piece down and push it thru. and when in doubt use the featherboards to hold your work. and clamp small pieces to large pieces to cut. Del Rcaprd@aol.com wrote: --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that sawdust. Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just below the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more digits than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your fingers !! Chuck G. Del-New Richmond, Wi "farmerdel@rocketmail.com" --------------------------------- ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:25:07 AM PST US From: "DJ Vegh" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table saws and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT! You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a breathing, living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you lose respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part. My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs old. so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to go until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of course I still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada yada yada. DJ ----- Original Message ----- From: Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com > > I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that sawdust. > Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just below > the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more digits > than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your fingers > !! > > Chuck G. > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 10:19:31 AM PST US From: Michael D Cuy Subject: Pietenpol-List: step a side with your push stick too --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy Gosh, I don't think I ever got relaxed with using the table saw, and I'm glad of that. In addition to what Farmer Del M. said about using push sticks, (I used two of them---one to push and the other to keep the material against the fence) I would stay off to one side or the other slightly rather than standing directly behind the blade path------ that is after a piece of wood kicked back and left a huge black and blue mark just above my belt line. I got the saw for free---a used Craftsman, but spent $60 bucks on a carbide tipped blade that still cuts like butter. The best monies I ever spent were on that blade and Tony's books. Mike C. ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 11:01:56 AM PST US From: Jim Ash Subject: Pietenpol-List: Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash The scary tools for me are those that are a little less obvious; bench grinders and hydraulic presses come to mind. These tools are considered relatively benign, but a cracked grinding wheel can suddenly send large chunks of material flying somewhere in a hurry. And I was pressing apart a bearing in my press that, unbeknownst to me, wasn't pressed together. I had a good lean going on the machine when the outer race broke (with a bang) and bearings shot across my garage like buckshot. Fortunately, my press has bad aim and I walked away unscathed. Jim Ash -----Original Message----- From: DJ Vegh Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table saws and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT! You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a breathing, living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you lose respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part. ... ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 11:16:54 AM PST US From: N321TX@wmconnect.com Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Shop safety / was Table Saw Safety When I was a young TV news report many years ago, I covered a story of a poor fellow who was killed when the tank on his air compressor blew up. I was reminded of my tour of duty in Vietnam. Shrapnel went everywhere and this guy suffered a painful, bloody death. When I arrived at the scene, I thought Charlie had fired a mortar into this guys shop. The moral of this tragic story is to DRAIN your air tank every day and don't let water accumulate in the tank. (For that matter, don't let water accumulate in your Air Camper either, or you'll end up with a rotted out fuselage. Either way, rotted fuselage or rusted tank is a recipe for disaster. S.B. ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 12:57:01 PM PST US From: "walt evans" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" Yeah, one of the most bizzare accidents that I heard of when it comes to common tools that we can use every day is,,,If you read the dangers on the package of one of those long drill bits ( about 18" or so) ""Don't use in a drill press"". The bit isn't strong enough to stay straight at high speed. It instantly bends to become a big propellor right about at throat level. Wouldn't know what hit you. walt evans NX140DL ----- Original Message ----- From: "DJ Vegh" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" > > yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table saws > and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT! > > You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a breathing, > living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you lose > respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part. > > My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first > accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got > whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs old. > > so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to go > until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of course I > still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada yada > yada. > > DJ > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:41 AM > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com > > > > I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that > sawdust. > > Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just > below > > the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more > digits > > than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your > fingers > > !! > > > > Chuck G. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 01:45:35 PM PST US From: "DJ Vegh" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety - now drill press --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" the one thing that scares me is watching someone drilling through a piece of steel without clamping the piece... I cringe when I see the piece being drilled is not clamped but rather being held by hand. Once that bit gets near the end of the piece you all know what happens.... It took me once to find that out the hard way... a pretty nasty gash as a .063" piece of 4130 strap swung around and sliced me open like a knife. DJ ----- Original Message ----- From: "walt evans" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" > > Yeah, one of the most bizzare accidents that I heard of when it comes to > common tools that we can use every day is,,,If you read the dangers on the > package of one of those long drill bits ( about 18" or so) ""Don't use in a > drill press"". The bit isn't strong enough to stay straight at high speed. > It instantly bends to become a big propellor right about at throat level. > Wouldn't know what hit you. > walt evans > NX140DL > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "DJ Vegh" > To: > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 12:25 PM > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" > > > > yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table > saws > > and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT! > > > > You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a > breathing, > > living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you lose > > respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part. > > > > My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first > > accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got > > whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs old. > > > > so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to go > > until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of course I > > still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada yada > > yada. > > > > DJ > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:41 AM > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > > > > > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com > > > > > > I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that > > sawdust. > > > Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just > > below > > > the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off more > > digits > > > than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your > > fingers > > > !! > > > > > > Chuck G. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 04:12:04 PM PST US From: "walt evans" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety - now drill press --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" One more for the "ugly story pool" guy in work on a big drill press (that doesn't stop) drilling a strange shapped piece,,,it grabbed and spun. took off the nail and meat of the ring finger and the middle. I was amazed that it was about 10 hours before they reattached the didgets. Even with keeping all on ice, I was surprised the they took. Still you're talking months of Owies walt evans NX140DL do not archive ----- Original Message ----- From: "DJ Vegh" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety - now drill press > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" > > the one thing that scares me is watching someone drilling through a piece of > steel without clamping the piece... I cringe when I see the piece being > drilled is not clamped but rather being held by hand. > > Once that bit gets near the end of the piece you all know what happens.... > It took me once to find that out the hard way... a pretty nasty gash as a > .063" piece of 4130 strap swung around and sliced me open like a knife. > > DJ > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "walt evans" > To: > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 12:56 PM > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" > > > > Yeah, one of the most bizzare accidents that I heard of when it comes to > > common tools that we can use every day is,,,If you read the dangers on the > > package of one of those long drill bits ( about 18" or so) ""Don't use in > a > > drill press"". The bit isn't strong enough to stay straight at high > speed. > > It instantly bends to become a big propellor right about at throat level. > > Wouldn't know what hit you. > > walt evans > > NX140DL > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "DJ Vegh" > > To: > > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 12:25 PM > > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > > > > > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "DJ Vegh" > > > > > > yes... be careful! The word I first think of when I think of table > > saws > > > and other dangerous power equipment is.... RESPECT! > > > > > > You absolutley must respect equipment like that. Treat it like a > > breathing, > > > living being that is capable of eating you for lunch. The minute you > lose > > > respect for the machine is the exact minute you lose a body part. > > > > > > My grandfather lost 4 fingers over the course of 50 years. His first > > > accident happened when he was in his 30's. Then 3 yrs ago my dad got > > > whacked pretty good while working on his Celebrity.... he was 51 yrs > old. > > > > > > so.... I figure by reason of simple math and genetics, I am good to go > > > until I am about 70 or so before I get bit.... hehehe.... but of course > I > > > still respect the saw...... and the drill press, lathe, router, yada > yada > > > yada. > > > > > > DJ > > > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: > > > To: > > > Sent: Monday, September 13, 2004 8:41 AM > > > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Table Saw Safety > > > > > > > > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com > > > > > > > > I just thought I'd kick this out there to everyone making all that > > > sawdust. > > > > Last Thursday, a buddy of mine cut off the tip of his left thumb, just > > > below > > > > the thumb nail, with a Table Saw. Those table saws have lopped off > more > > > digits > > > > than any other power tool. Just stay out of that Red Zone with your > > > fingers > > > > !! > > > > > > > > Chuck G. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 05:38:33 PM PST US From: Rcaprd@aol.com Subject: Pietenpol-List: America Tour part 1 --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com All right, I'm gong to start posting some stories about my Big Adventure. It seemed like everyone I talked with, was a bit envious of this little cross country flight. Life should be Fun and Adventurous...right ?? This trip certainly fit the bill. One of my primary objectives, was that I will NEVER be in a hurry, and always try to be well rested. This will be a series of posts, starting with the first leg, but I should start out with the Preparation: I did a LOT of work on my plane, in the months prior to departure. I built spring struts to replace the bunji struts. That was lots of fit & trim work (the Brits call it 'Fit and Fiddle'), as I had to build them to work with the existing fittings. I also built four new EL brackets on the inside, where the gear lug / lift strut attach points are. I made the two front ones a little long, bent them inboard, and drilled 1/4" holes to use as hard points, for securing baggage. I also installed fittings on the lower engine mounts, to secure cargo. This type rework gave me the chance to re-rig the wing, to take care of a little bit of 'Left Wing Heavy'. I built a battery box out of fiberglass / polyester resin, and added a small sealed lead acid battery to the firewall. It was about $20 @ Interstate Battery. The main reason for the battery was to provide reliable voltage to the GPS. I'm sold on the GPS. now that it is a much more reliable...it was flawless. Last years trip to Brodhead, with the 3 little AA batteries, that thing crapped out on me 3 times in flight !! The other items that the battery was installed for, is the handheld com radio, and the Smoke System. I wasn't able to get the plug from Radio Shack to work with the handheld, so it operated with it's self contained battery pack. Now that I have a battery, I have to keep it charged, so I came up with the idea of a Solar Charger. I found a solar trickle charger at Harbor Freight for about $20, but it had a red plastic frame around it. I removed the plastic housing, to reveal a piece of glass that the photovolactic cells were in. I used a double layer of electric tape around the periphery of the glass, and fabric cloth and poly tac, and patched it to the top aft edge of the wing, to the left side of the cockpit. With the solar cell secure, I ran the wire down across the bottom of the wing, secured with color coded 90 mph duct tape. I tapped it into the wire harness, behind the instrument panel. To monitor voltage, I bought a little 12v voltage tester at Harbor Freight, for $3. It has a row of five LED's, that show line voltage. The more of them that are lit, the more available voltage. I wired the monitor into the harness. The battery voltage goes directly to a 4 amp breaker, mounted to the lower right side of the panel, before it is tapped into the harness. With the breaker pulled, I can see how much the sun provides, and when I push in the breaker, the battery voltage is added. The Solar Cell was not enough to keep up with the demand of the smoke pump motor, but it could easily keep up with the GPS. However, during the entire 26 day trip, I only had to charge the 12v battery one time. With the airframe, engine, B.F.R. and class 3 medical complete, it comes time to pack the plane. I packed, unpacked, repacked the plane 4 or 5 times, rearranging stuff, trying make it fit better, and off loading some more stuff each time. The 'Chair in a Bag' had to stay. Big heavy leather motorcycle jacket had to stay. Extra blue jeans, and some shirts had to stay. The question is - What should be packed for a month long journey, and What could be left behind? Weight is the crucial factor. The final weight of my cargo was 65 lbs. I couldn't have carried that much cargo, if I had the controls in the front pit. Packed and ready to go, I started the engine, climbed in, and realized I'm finally on the way !! After a little prayer for a safe journey, and a big "YEEE HAAAWWW, I took off and pointed the nose to the South. There were 3 guys that watched me depart, so I puffed 'em some big dashed lines in the sky !! It was late afternoon, and I could only make one leg, but I'm on the way. OK, here it is, the middle of July, and the winds are out of the North. The winds are almost Never out of the North this time of year. I have a tailwind !! And the tailwind continued for the two days it took to get to Tick Hill Field. I was seeing groundspeeds well over 80 mph !! Zero Charlie Gulf has never seen sustained speeds over the terrain like this. I patted her on the longeron, and said "Now don't you get too spoiled on speed !!" The evening hours are the very best time of day to fly. Clear skies, thermals settle down, thumb and finger stick control, the noise muffled down to a tolerable rate, all God's creation slipping beneath the wings, I found the 'Zone'. All things are right in the world. 7/17/04 Cook (K50) - Cushing Ok. (CUH) 115 mi. 80 mph 1.4 hrs. 5:35 to 7:00 126.69 tach hrs. On approach to Cushing, I heard the radio call that jumpers were in the air. OK, heads up...we don't want to splat any jumpers on the windshield !! We landed about an hour before dusk, fueled up, paid cash, and pitched the tent. I was invited to the jumpers hanger for some beer & pizza, and to watch the video's from the camera's that they wear on their head. They get some awesome shots of what they do in free fall. Three of them made a night jump, with the required strobe light attached to their ankle. They pointed some car headlights in the landing area, and two of them landed in the lighted area. Another one landed outside the lighted area, and came down with a loud 'UMPH" !! He was all right. In one sense it boggles my mind, why someone would jump out of a perfectly good airplane, at 9,000 feet, into complete blackness. On the other hand, it's all about the Adventure !! OK, I can understand that. Friendly bunch, these skydivers are. The few women are fit and trim, and wear tight spandex clothes !! Their attire held few secrets !! They were all interested in my story, too. If one of them would have chose to go with me, I would have gladly left all 65 lbs of baggage behind !! Oklahoma Skydiving Center www.skydiveok.com Chuck Gantzer NX770CG The Adventure Begins !! ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 07:39:08 PM PST US From: "Catdesign" Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re:Top & Bottom Struts --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Catdesign" Stacy, Yes, I think you're missing something here. From the back seat aft, the cross braces holding the two sides together (or is that apart?) should line up with the verticals in the fuselage sides. Try this, look at the "Layout for the Side of Fuselage" drawing near the top of sheet 1. Look for the verticals labeled 7 (at the rear seat back) 9, 11, 13. Now look at the "Inside Constructional View of Fuselage" drawing near the middle of the sheet, you will see a dimension of 28". This dimension is from the front edge of the upper 3/4" x 3/4" cross strut support at the top of the back seat to the next cross brace. Now, if you look back at the "Layout for the Side of Fuselage" drawing you will see the dimension 27-1/4" for the distance between verticals 7 and 9 . But wait, this 27-1/4" is from the back edge of 7, so if you add the " thickness to 27-1/4" you get the 28" shown on the "Inside Constructional View of Fuselage" drawing. From there on back, the dimensions are the same on both drawings so they should line up with the verticals too. The bottom cross braces are the same, as the top. I should add that the aft Ash cross member does not line up with the cluster formed by members 4, 5, and 6. It's slightly ahead of it. However, the front Ash cross member does line up with the cluster formed by verticals 2 and 3. Chris Tracy. Sacramento, Ca > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Stacy Clark" > > Subject: Top & Bottom Struts and Braces > From: Stacy Clark (stacy@unicom-alaska.com) > Date: Fri Sep 10 - 5:16 AM > > Am I missing something here? Looking at the plans (1933 short fuselage) the > top > and bottom struts and braces don't line up with the fuselage sides struts > and > braces. However, every single picture I look at (from various builders) > shows > them lining up (i.e.: a box pattern). My fuselage sides "are" correct. > > Stacy > > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 07:40:03 PM PST US From: "Ted Brousseau" Subject: Pietenpol-List: Elevator control cables --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" I detect that the front cables tighten and loosen at different rates between full back and full forward on the control stick. I wonder if anyone has offset the cable attachpoints on the stick to account for this and keep the tension even? Ted Brousseau Naples, FL ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 07:40:03 PM PST US From: "Ted Brousseau" Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wooden control stick --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" I have a variation of the wooden control stick debate. Years ago I had a passenger board at a charity event and I was worried about his motivations. It went well, but I immediately sawed of the front stick and inserted a broom stick so I could remove the front stick easily. This came in handy when filling the front passenger compartment full of gear on long X-C. Last year a biplane crashed because they believe a passenger in the front collapsed and forced the stick forward. I decided the best solution would be to make the same change I had already made except use balsa instead. This way I could leave in the stick for the passenger to use, but if he/she tried to overpower me, I would win because the front stick would break away. Just a thought. Ted Brousseau ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 09:18:55 PM PST US From: "Catdesign" Subject: Pietenpol-List: More on welding --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Catdesign" No one really asked but this was one of my big unknowns going into this project so I figure I would put this out there so others can get an idea what I decided to use for welding the fittings. Welding. I'm NOT A PRO OR CERTIFIED WELDER I use a Victor (clone) type welding torch ($375 with kart and tanks). It's been fine for most of things I have welded. I purchased 40cf Oxygen and Acetylene tanks that last me about 6 months to a year depending on the amount of practice welding and fixing stuff for the neighbors. I would not recommend smaller tanks. As for tips, I have one each of the 000, 00, 0 tips ($20 each) and they have worked out fine. I used the larger tip to heat metal for bending and squishing but I really should get a rose-bud tip for this purpose. The smaller 000 worked great on the thin metal but mostly I use the 00 size. I have trouble welding 1/4" plate to 1/4" plate with the tips I have. I use mild steel rods as these are recommended for 4130. I do not remove the brass coating on the rod but I think I will in the future as I have read it might be bad . I read that your a not supposed to use 4130 filler rod unless you are post heating welds (Finch welding book) (post heating should not be confused with stress relieving with the torch). I recently picked up some ER70S TIG rod, as I have seen this discussed as a good gas rod as well as TIG rod. I recently purchased a Meco Midget torch body ($115?) and a full set of tips (only 8 bucks each). I have not used it yet but it's tinny and cute. I saw it demonstrated at an air show and it seemed to work fine. Nice and small and easy to hold. I have trouble with holding the Victor in the right place at times. One thing to watch out for with this torch is my Victor has flash back arrestors built into the torch body but the Meco Midget doesn't. So I had to buy separate flash back arrestors (another 40 bucks). Also the hoses are smaller so I had to get reduces (20 bucks) and hose (25 bucks). I use the plane old gas-welding shade 4(?) lens. I can't afford the nice $100 dollar ones. I have yet to find a good fitting pair. Finches Performance Welding book is a good reference. EAAs welding book and video are ok. BRAZING Think of brazing as gluing two pieces of metal together with another metal. You only have to heat the base metal hot enough to melt the brazing rod (you don't melt the rod in the flame). Contrary to what some believe, brazing is not necessarily weaker then welding. If you use the correct braze material it can be stronger then the base metal. As I understand it, 4130 does not react well to brazing because the braze gets into the crystalline structure and can cause cracks when it cools. Not a good thing. So I weld all my 4130 fittings. For what it's worth Chris Tracy. Sacramento, Ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mike Luther" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Welding torch > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Mike Luther > > Ron: > > I used the special Tinmantech lens for Gas welding aluminum and it works > beautifully. Worth every penny ($100) for Aluminum, but not necessary for > 4130 Chrome Molly. > > Mike L. > > Franck wrote: > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Franck > > > > I'm contemplating the purchase of the Meco Midget welding torch. For those > > of you who have actual experience using this product, what are your > > re-actions and recommendations concerning this product? What size welding > > tips and what other accessories should the end user consider? How about a > > evaluation of the special welding lenses offered by > > http://www.tinmantech.com/html/tm2000.html? Thanks, Ron Franck > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 09:37:08 PM PST US From: "Catdesign" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: step a side with your push stick too --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Catdesign" I bought one of these Grip-tite magnetic feather boards ($39) and I love it! I highly recommend this product. No need to use your left hand to hold the board against the fence anymore. Its easy to put in place holds the wood tight against the fence. I can't afford to loose anymore digits as I lost a finger tip to a front door in 69' and sawed half way through my left thumb with a table saw in 83'. I sill get a cold chill down my spine when I use the table saw. Chris Tracy Sacramento, Ca ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael D Cuy" Subject: Pietenpol-List: step a side with your push stick too > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy > > Gosh, I don't think I ever got relaxed with using the table saw, and I'm > glad of that. In addition to what > Farmer Del M. said about using push sticks, (I used two of them---one to > push and the other to keep the material > against the fence) I would stay off to one side or the other slightly > rather than standing directly behind the blade path------ > that is after a piece of wood kicked back and left a huge black and blue > mark just above my belt line. > > I got the saw for free---a used Craftsman, but spent $60 bucks on a carbide > tipped blade that still cuts like butter. > The best monies I ever spent were on that blade and Tony's books. > > Mike C. > >