Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:49 AM - Balancing rods and pistons (N321TX@wmconnect.com)
2. 07:09 AM - grounding mag switches (Douwe Blumberg)
3. 02:58 PM - Re: grounding mag switches (walt evans)
4. 04:21 PM - Re: grounding mag switches (Bert Conoly)
5. 05:34 PM - Re: oil & oil temp questions (Richard Navratil)
6. 05:37 PM - Re: grounding mag switches (Richard Navratil)
7. 07:15 PM - A "no shackle" question (Christopher Friel)
8. 07:32 PM - Re: A "no shackle" question (Bert Conoly)
9. 08:06 PM - Re: A "no shackle" question (Richard Navratil)
10. 08:19 PM - Re: A "no shackle" question (Clif Dawson)
11. 08:23 PM - Re: A "no shackle" question (Rcaprd@aol.com)
12. 08:31 PM - Re: Balancing rods and pistons (Rcaprd@aol.com)
13. 08:39 PM - Re: A "no shackle" question (Rcaprd@aol.com)
14. 09:53 PM - Re: A "no shackle" question (Bert Conoly)
15. 11:08 PM - Re: Balancing rods and pistons (rod wooller)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Balancing rods and pistons |
Does anyone have any experience in balancing rods and pistons?
I have a highly accurate digital scale used for weighing letters. I've
weighed my rods and pistons (separately) and have found some minor differences
in
weight. (Have not weighed them with bearings and pins yet...)
I knew guys in El Paso who balanced the rods and pistons on VW's they raced
in Baja and the Mojave desert, but I don't really suspect you get a performance
increase doing this and I'm not even certain if making everything weigh the
same produces less vibration, especially in something as small as a Continental
A-80 engine.
I suspect even if you get all the pistons and rods matching in weight, there
are still some minor issues with true balance of the crankshaft, making the
"balancing act" of the rods and pistons overkill.
The guys who balanced their VW engines, believed there would be less stress
on them.
Thoughts and comments appreciated.
Sterling
Message 2
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| Subject: | grounding mag switches |
What have you guys grounded your mag switches to?
Douwe
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: grounding mag switches |
Douwe,
Since the mags are case grounded to the engine block, obviously has to go to the
engine, but I think I cleaned up one of the studs/nuts holding the rear case
on.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
To: pietenpolgroup
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2004 10:20 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: grounding mag switches
What have you guys grounded your mag switches to?
Douwe
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: grounding mag switches |
My Slicks have a threaded grounding connection just above the P leads. I think
it would be a good idea to install a wire from one mag's grounding terminal to
the other and another wire from there to a case bolt. This would tie noth mags
to the case potential. (grounding it) Then the black (ground ) wire coming
from the mag switch should also be grounded to the case bolt. The problem
could be that if corrosion, or crud, somehow affects the connection betewen the
mag and the case, like say corrosion in the mag studs, , you could wind up
with a mag that is not at the same potential as the case (basically insulated
from the case). Looks to me like this could cause a problem
Bert
----- Original Message -----
From: walt evans
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2004 5:56 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: grounding mag switches
Douwe,
Since the mags are case grounded to the engine block, obviously has to go to
the engine, but I think I cleaned up one of the studs/nuts holding the rear
case on.
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
To: pietenpolgroup
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2004 10:20 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: grounding mag switches
What have you guys grounded your mag switches to?
Douwe
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: oil & oil temp questions |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
I'll give it a try too. I was running at 140 deg today on a beautiful mid
60's day.
Dick N
----- Original Message -----
From: <Rcaprd@aol.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: oil & oil temp questions
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
>
> In a message dated 10/8/04 11:41:38 AM Central Daylight Time,
> BARNSTMR@aol.com writes:
>
> << Its hard to close up airflow around the engine case on an "exposed
> cylinder" cowl. >>
>
> I will try using duct tape over the hole in front of the J3 fiberglass
> nose
> bowl, to see how that affects the temp. I also like the idea of
> insulating the
> oil tank, maybe with fiberglass.
>
> Chuck G.
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: grounding mag switches |
I ran the wire to the engine block and also ran a wire back to a ground plate behind
which also grounds the radio antenna.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Douwe Blumberg
To: pietenpolgroup
Sent: Saturday, October 09, 2004 9:20 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: grounding mag switches
What have you guys grounded your mag switches to?
Douwe
Message 7
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| Subject: | A "no shackle" question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christopher Friel" <cjfriel@ucdavis.edu>
Hello everybody, I've been lurking for about a year now. I've managed to
put together a Piet while going to graduate school; I couldn't have done
it without all of you. I am now threatening to cover the beast but before
I do I have a question about the bracing wires between the spars. Is it
acceptable to connnect the non-turnbuckle end of the cables directly to
the brace wire fitting or is it best to use a shackle and clevis bolt? All
the talk about the hard wire on the tail got me to wondering. I used 1/8"
7x19 stainless wire and a thimble. What do ya think?
Chris
Davis, CA
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: A "no shackle" question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Bert Conoly" <bconoly@earthlink.net>
Chris. In my opinion, the only down side is if you ever needed to replace a
be a problem with the rear spar, but if you use plywood for the leading edge
you may not be able to get to the nut on the bolt for the fitting on the
front spar.
If you use a shackle you can replace the cable fairly easy without that.
Now the reality is .. how often would you need to replace a x-brace cable?
I chose to use shackles.
My 1/50 th of a buck.
BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Friel" <cjfriel@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A "no shackle" question
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christopher Friel"
<cjfriel@ucdavis.edu>
>
>
> Hello everybody, I've been lurking for about a year now. I've managed to
> put together a Piet while going to graduate school; I couldn't have done
> it without all of you. I am now threatening to cover the beast but before
> I do I have a question about the bracing wires between the spars. Is it
> acceptable to connnect the non-turnbuckle end of the cables directly to
> the brace wire fitting or is it best to use a shackle and clevis bolt? All
> the talk about the hard wire on the tail got me to wondering. I used 1/8"
> 7x19 stainless wire and a thimble. What do ya think?
>
> Chris
> Davis, CA
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A "no shackle" question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Richard Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
There is really no reason to use the extra shackle on that end. I just made
the hole in the fitting large enough to accept a thimble. You don't need
1/8" for these. 3/32" is plenty strong for that.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Christopher Friel" <cjfriel@ucdavis.edu>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A "no shackle" question
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christopher Friel"
> <cjfriel@ucdavis.edu>
>
>
> Hello everybody, I've been lurking for about a year now. I've managed to
> put together a Piet while going to graduate school; I couldn't have done
> it without all of you. I am now threatening to cover the beast but before
> I do I have a question about the bracing wires between the spars. Is it
> acceptable to connnect the non-turnbuckle end of the cables directly to
> the brace wire fitting or is it best to use a shackle and clevis bolt? All
> the talk about the hard wire on the tail got me to wondering. I used 1/8"
> 7x19 stainless wire and a thimble. What do ya think?
>
> Chris
> Davis, CA
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: A "no shackle" question |
<003101c4ae71$330e2900$6501a8c0@Nancy>
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
I don't think you'd need to pull the fitting would you? If you have to
replace the cable then it has to be cut off anyway and if you have
enough room to get at the fitting for removal wouldn't you have enough
to nicopress a new end in there? A little like modern appendectomy
maybe but doable isn't it? I must admit, I hadn't thought of ever having
to do it but s$t happens, doesn't it.
Landing gear brackets finally bolted in. Starting LG legs tomorrow.
Clif
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Bert Conoly"
<bconoly@earthlink.net>
>
> Chris. In my opinion, the only down side is if you ever needed to replace
a
> x-brace cable you'd have to pull the fitting off the spar. This may not
> be a problem with the rear spar, but if you use plywood for the leading
edge
> you may not be able to get to the nut on the bolt for the fitting on the
> front spar.
> If you use a shackle you can replace the cable fairly easy without that.
>
> Now the reality is .. how often would you need to replace a x-brace cable?
> I chose to use shackles.
> My 1/50 th of a buck.
> BC
> >
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christopher Friel"
> <cjfriel@ucdavis.edu>
> >
> >Is it acceptable to connnect the non-turnbuckle end of the cables
directly to
> > the brace wire fitting or is it best to use a shackle and clevis bolt?
All
> > the talk about the hard wire on the tail got me to wondering. I used
1/8"
> > 7x19 stainless wire and a thimble. What do ya think?
> >
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: A "no shackle" question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 10/9/04 9:16:19 PM Central Daylight Time,
cjfriel@ucdavis.edu writes:
<< Is it
acceptable to connnect the non-turnbuckle end of the cables directly to
the brace wire fitting or is it best to use a shackle and clevis bolt? All
the talk about the hard wire on the tail got me to wondering. I used 1/8"
7x19 stainless wire and a thimble. What do ya think? >>
Chris,
I used 3/32" 7X19 cable, and attached the non-turmbuckle end of the cable
thimbles directly to the fitting. The hole in the fitting is a straight drilled
hole, so I took a fine file, and beveled the side of the hole, to match the
radius of the thimble. After over 200 hrs of test flying, the cables still have
the same 'twang' as they did when I installed them.
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
- nasty direct cross wind today, so I repaired the leak in the smoke tank,
and a couple of other squawks.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Balancing rods and pistons |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
Sterling,
I weighed my pistons and rods before assembly, and they turned out very
close. I didn't do anything to get them any closer. I suspect those V W engines
turn up over twice the rpm of our Continental engines, where balance may be
more crucial.
Chuck G.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: A "no shackle" question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 10/9/04 10:19:45 PM Central Daylight Time,
CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca writes:
<< I don't think you'd need to pull the fitting would you? If you have to
replace the cable then it has to be cut off anyway and if you have
enough room to get at the fitting for removal wouldn't you have enough
to nicopress a new end in there? A little like modern appendectomy
maybe but doable isn't it? >>
Clif,
Yes, the fitting would have to be removed. I pre-fit the fittings & cables,
then nico-press the cable end on before I permanently bolted the fitting in
place. No way to get the nico-press tool in there. The cables are permanent
fixture, and should never need replacement.
Chuck G.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: A "no shackle" question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Bert Conoly" <bconoly@earthlink.net>
Cliff
I think you'd have a real hard time getting the nicopress sqeezer thingy
into a 4 inch inspection hole at the same time being able to hold and snug
the nicopress sleeve up against the the thimble while holding and squaring
the whole thing up- all the while squeezing that thing on.. Unless there's
a new laproscopic squeezon tool I'm not familiar with. I guess I'm like an
old "wash woman" and worry about every possible problem that could come up.
That's why it's taken me 9 years, 4 months and 3 days to build my plane.
(But that suckers about ready to go.)
Chris. Drill holes in your fitting big enough for the thimble and don't
worry about spending an extra four bucks per cable. (Until later........)
{PS went to Thomasville Ga flyin today but no Piets)
BC
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: A "no shackle" question
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
>
> I don't think you'd need to pull the fitting would you? If you have to
> replace the cable then it has to be cut off anyway and if you have
> enough room to get at the fitting for removal wouldn't you have enough
> to nicopress a new end in there? A little like modern appendectomy
> maybe but doable isn't it? I must admit, I hadn't thought of ever having
> to do it but s$t happens, doesn't it.
>
> Landing gear brackets finally bolted in. Starting LG legs tomorrow.
>
> Clif
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Bert Conoly"
> <bconoly@earthlink.net>
> >
> > Chris. In my opinion, the only down side is if you ever needed to
replace
> a
> > x-brace cable you'd have to pull the fitting off the spar. This may
not
> > be a problem with the rear spar, but if you use plywood for the leading
> edge
> > you may not be able to get to the nut on the bolt for the fitting on the
> > front spar.
> > If you use a shackle you can replace the cable fairly easy without that.
> >
> > Now the reality is .. how often would you need to replace a x-brace
cable?
> > I chose to use shackles.
> > My 1/50 th of a buck.
> > BC
> > >
> >
> > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Christopher Friel"
> > <cjfriel@ucdavis.edu>
> > >
> > >Is it acceptable to connnect the non-turnbuckle end of the cables
> directly to
> > > the brace wire fitting or is it best to use a shackle and clevis bolt?
> All
> > > the talk about the hard wire on the tail got me to wondering. I used
> 1/8"
> > > 7x19 stainless wire and a thimble. What do ya think?
> > >
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Balancing rods and pistons |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "rod wooller" <rodwooller@hotmail.com>
Sterling,
If you want to have a go at balancing the rods etc yourself, get a copy of
Richard Finch's book "How to keep your Corvair alive".
There are diagrams in it that show how to build jigs to balance the engine
parts.
I haven't yet done this myself, but it looks simple enough.
Cheers,
Rod Wooller
Chidlow, Australia
>From: N321TX@wmconnect.com
>Reply-To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Balancing rods and pistons
>Date: Sat, 9 Oct 2004 08:48:29 EDT
>
>Does anyone have any experience in balancing rods and pistons?
>
>I have a highly accurate digital scale used for weighing letters. I've
>weighed my rods and pistons (separately) and have found some minor
>differences in
>weight. (Have not weighed them with bearings and pins yet...)
>
>I knew guys in El Paso who balanced the rods and pistons on VW's they raced
>in Baja and the Mojave desert, but I don't really suspect you get a
>performance
>increase doing this and I'm not even certain if making everything weigh the
>same produces less vibration, especially in something as small as a
>Continental
>A-80 engine.
>
>I suspect even if you get all the pistons and rods matching in weight,
>there
>are still some minor issues with true balance of the crankshaft, making the
>"balancing act" of the rods and pistons overkill.
>
>The guys who balanced their VW engines, believed there would be less stress
>on them.
>
>Thoughts and comments appreciated.
>
>Sterling
>
>
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