Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:35 AM - Mountain Flying (John Dilatush)
2. 07:36 AM - Re: leading edge (Carl D. Vought)
3. 09:46 AM - Western America Tour Charts, EBAY (N321TX@wmconnect.com)
4. 03:00 PM - Lower longerons (TBYH@aol.com)
5. 04:03 PM - Re: Lower longerons (tmbrant1@netzero.net)
6. 04:24 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Galen Hutcheson)
7. 04:29 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Richard Navratil)
8. 04:32 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Galen Hutcheson)
9. 07:48 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Stacy Clark)
10. 08:59 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Javier Cruz)
Message 1
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Chuck G. and other Pieters,
In my earlier post, I forgot to mention the effect that altitude has on the horsepower
of a normally aspirated engine.
A normally aspirated engine will lose about 3% of it's horsepower per thousand
feet. Figure it this way: If you have a 65 hp Continental, at 7500 feet, you
really only have 77.5% of 65 hp available or about 50 hp at full throttle available
for take off and climb!
Another thing to keep in mind when planning your route.
Cordially,
John Dilatush
Salida, Colorado
Boy, I miss "Mountain Piet".
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: leading edge |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Carl D. Vought" <carbarvo@knology.net>
I think that's good advice about the formica. Did Javier mean "Masonite"
maybe? Have you ever heard that BHP used old election posters for his
leading edge? Carl
On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 21:17:52 -0600, Don Morris <pietbuilder@donsplans.com>
wrote :
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Don Morris
<pietbuilder@donsplans.com>
>
> Hi.
>
> I would NOT use Formica on the leading edge. It is very brittle, and
> will crack and disintegrate. I hate to think of what a bird strike
> would do to it. It is also quite heavy. I am also ready for my leading
> edge, and I think I am going to try for the aluminum.
>
> -Don
>
> Javier Cruz wrote:
>
> >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Javier Cruz <javcr@prodigy.net.mx>
> >
> >Thanks for your help Friends
> >I will try to get 1/16 plywood here (Mexico), if not, i will call to
Wicks ,
> >maybe they can send the plywood cut for less expensive shipping. I have
on
> >hand some sheets of formica, but i don't know if it is enought hard for
> >leading edge.
> >Javier Cruz
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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Subject: | Western America Tour Charts, EBAY |
0.04 LOTS_OF_STUFF BODY: Thousands or millions of pictures, movies,
etc.
I just went through my closet looking for charts and sectionals to send to
Chuck for his next extravaganza out west, when I decided to see if Ebay had any
bargains on sectionals. I found the below item, which seems to offer a
substantial savings on sectionals rather than buying them from Sporty's or at your
local FBO.
Ebay item number 4501168927 <IMG SRC="http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.gif" WIDTH="12" HEIGHT="1" BORDER="0" DATASIZE="49">
This item may have some use in planning routes, but I'd sure hate to print
out a slew of charts on my color laser printer. Still, it may be good to keep
loaded in a laptop.
S.B.
Message 4
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|
Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes anyway. I cut some of that
beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the top and bottom longerons.
I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but seems like there will be an
awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up that way. I read the one
fellow steamed the front portion of the lower longeron to get it to bend easier.
What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of getting a length of two- or
three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one end, filling with water,
heating to a boil and then putting longeron in there. If that's the right
solution, how long should I leave the spruce in there? Will that weaken the wood
after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks!
Fred B.
La Crosse, WI
_TBYH@aol.com_ (mailto:TBYH@aol.com)
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Lower longerons |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "tmbrant1@netzero.net" <tmbrant1@netzero.net>
I just glued mine up - didn't seem like that much stress at all. Interested to
see what other say though.
Tom B.
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Lower longerons |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
Hi Fred,
I had the same thoughts a couple to three months ago
when I was faced with the same delima. I found that
after the longerones lay in the jig for awhile, and
they porbably will, they will eventually take on the
shape of the jig and there will be much less stress
than you might think. I don't think you will gain
much by soaking or boiling the ends of the longerones
as they will eventually conform to their new shape.
Seems like spruce just wants to bend (warp) anyway so
all you are doing is guiding it in the direction that
you want it to go. Just be gentle while bending them
into the jig so you don't crack or break one. By
soaking or boiling them, the wood will swell and make
it hard to fit into the jig holding blocks. Others
may have a different opinion than mine, but it worked
well for me. Also be careful that you have the grain
running in the right direction, ie. perpendicular to
the plane of the table top.
Doc
--- TBYH@aol.com wrote:
> Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes
> anyway. I cut some of that
> beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the
> top and bottom longerons.
> I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but
> seems like there will be an
> awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up
> that way. I read the one
> fellow steamed the front portion of the lower
> longeron to get it to bend easier.
> What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of
> getting a length of two- or
> three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one
> end, filling with water,
> heating to a boil and then putting longeron in
> there. If that's the right
> solution, how long should I leave the spruce in
> there? Will that weaken the wood
> after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly
> appreciated.
>
> Many thanks!
>
> Fred B.
> La Crosse, WI
> _TBYH@aol.com_ (mailto:TBYH@aol.com)
>
__________________________________
www.yahoo.com
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Lower longerons |
Fred
The wood will relax it self over time.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: TBYH@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 4:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lower longerons
Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes anyway. I cut some of that
beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the top and bottom longerons.
I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but seems like there will be an
awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up that way. I read the one fellow
steamed the front portion of the lower longeron to get it to bend easier. What's
the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of getting a length of two- or
three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one end, filling with water, heating
to a boil and then putting longeron in there. If that's the right solution,
how long should I leave the spruce in there? Will that weaken the wood after
it dries? Some guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks!
Fred B.
La Crosse, WI
TBYH@aol.com
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Lower longerons |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
Fred,
I meant to say that the grain should run with the
plane of the table, not perpendicular to it. Sorry
about that. Good luck and let us know if you have any
further questions.
Doc
--- Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen
> Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
>
> Hi Fred,
>
> I had the same thoughts a couple to three months ago
> when I was faced with the same delima. I found that
> after the longerones lay in the jig for awhile, and
> they porbably will, they will eventually take on the
> shape of the jig and there will be much less stress
> than you might think. I don't think you will gain
> much by soaking or boiling the ends of the
> longerones
> as they will eventually conform to their new shape.
> Seems like spruce just wants to bend (warp) anyway
> so
> all you are doing is guiding it in the direction
> that
> you want it to go. Just be gentle while bending
> them
> into the jig so you don't crack or break one. By
> soaking or boiling them, the wood will swell and
> make
> it hard to fit into the jig holding blocks. Others
> may have a different opinion than mine, but it
> worked
> well for me. Also be careful that you have the grain
> running in the right direction, ie. perpendicular to
> the plane of the table top.
>
> Doc
> --- TBYH@aol.com wrote:
>
> > Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes
> > anyway. I cut some of that
> > beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for
> the
> > top and bottom longerons.
> > I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but
> > seems like there will be an
> > awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up
> > that way. I read the one
> > fellow steamed the front portion of the lower
> > longeron to get it to bend easier.
> > What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of
> > getting a length of two- or
> > three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one
> > end, filling with water,
> > heating to a boil and then putting longeron in
> > there. If that's the right
> > solution, how long should I leave the spruce in
> > there? Will that weaken the wood
> > after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly
> > appreciated.
> >
> > Many thanks!
> >
> > Fred B.
> > La Crosse, WI
> > _TBYH@aol.com_ (mailto:TBYH@aol.com)
> >
>
>
>
>
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__________________________________
www.yahoo.com
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Lower longerons |
Fred,
Had no problem laying mine in the jig a couple months ago. Which way's your grain
running? In the end I ran mine with the grain laying horizontal (parallel)
to the run of the longeron (although either direction worked).
Important word of advise: Use more jig blocks than you think you need then double
screw them so they don't pivot around a single screw (this is especially true
for the side trusses and braces). Though my second fuselage side is acceptable
"it ain't perfect" compared to the other one. I've had to suck up about
an 1/8" bow (top to bottom mid-fuselage) by clamping the two side together so
they're even and then gluing on the gussets. This was caused by minute slipage
of a couple side trusses during their glue-up (i.e.: slipped overnight). That
may sound Greek but if it happens to you you'll know exactly what I'm talking
about.
Stacy
There is only one greater thing than to believe in the impossible...and that is
to achieve it -- Stacy Clark
----- Original Message -----
From: TBYH@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 1:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lower longerons
Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes anyway. I cut some of that
beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the top and bottom longerons.
I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but seems like there will be an
awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up that way. I read the one fellow
steamed the front portion of the lower longeron to get it to bend easier. What's
the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of getting a length of two- or
three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one end, filling with water, heating
to a boil and then putting longeron in there. If that's the right solution,
how long should I leave the spruce in there? Will that weaken the wood after
it dries? Some guidance would be greatly appreciated.
Many thanks!
Fred B.
La Crosse, WI
TBYH@aol.com
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Lower longerons |
Hi Fred
When i made the wing tips i soak the 1x1 spruce for the curve, i let the spruce
about 10 days and was not posible to bend it, for the fuselage, just i draw
on the table the fuselage side and made a provisional jig on the table with
wood blocks and bolts for longerons and braces, i did install first the longerons,
the braces and all gussets, whit the large of the longerons is not much
stress there, and both sides were almost identical, check where gussets should
be and where not, Good luck on your project.
About the formica, i don't know if the translation was right Carl, i have
been checked it and it looks fragile, i think that Don is right, Thanks for your
comments .
Javier Cruz
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