Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Fri 11/05/04


Total Messages Posted: 10



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:35 AM - Mountain Flying (John Dilatush)
     2. 07:36 AM - Re: leading edge (Carl D. Vought)
     3. 09:46 AM - Western America Tour Charts, EBAY (N321TX@wmconnect.com)
     4. 03:00 PM - Lower longerons (TBYH@aol.com)
     5. 04:03 PM - Re: Lower longerons (tmbrant1@netzero.net)
     6. 04:24 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Galen Hutcheson)
     7. 04:29 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Richard Navratil)
     8. 04:32 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Galen Hutcheson)
     9. 07:48 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Stacy Clark)
    10. 08:59 PM - Re: Lower longerons (Javier Cruz)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:35:37 AM PST US
    From: "John Dilatush" <dilatush@amigo.net>
    Subject: Mountain Flying
    Chuck G. and other Pieters, In my earlier post, I forgot to mention the effect that altitude has on the horsepower of a normally aspirated engine. A normally aspirated engine will lose about 3% of it's horsepower per thousand feet. Figure it this way: If you have a 65 hp Continental, at 7500 feet, you really only have 77.5% of 65 hp available or about 50 hp at full throttle available for take off and climb! Another thing to keep in mind when planning your route. Cordially, John Dilatush Salida, Colorado Boy, I miss "Mountain Piet".


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:36:49 AM PST US
    From: "Carl D. Vought" <carbarvo@knology.net>
    Subject: Re: leading edge
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Carl D. Vought" <carbarvo@knology.net> I think that's good advice about the formica. Did Javier mean "Masonite" maybe? Have you ever heard that BHP used old election posters for his leading edge? Carl On Thu, 04 Nov 2004 21:17:52 -0600, Don Morris <pietbuilder@donsplans.com> wrote : > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Don Morris <pietbuilder@donsplans.com> > > Hi. > > I would NOT use Formica on the leading edge. It is very brittle, and > will crack and disintegrate. I hate to think of what a bird strike > would do to it. It is also quite heavy. I am also ready for my leading > edge, and I think I am going to try for the aluminum. > > -Don > > Javier Cruz wrote: > > >--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Javier Cruz <javcr@prodigy.net.mx> > > > >Thanks for your help Friends > >I will try to get 1/16 plywood here (Mexico), if not, i will call to Wicks , > >maybe they can send the plywood cut for less expensive shipping. I have on > >hand some sheets of formica, but i don't know if it is enought hard for > >leading edge. > >Javier Cruz > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:46:02 AM PST US
    From: N321TX@wmconnect.com
    Subject: Western America Tour Charts, EBAY
    0.04 LOTS_OF_STUFF BODY: Thousands or millions of pictures, movies, etc. I just went through my closet looking for charts and sectionals to send to Chuck for his next extravaganza out west, when I decided to see if Ebay had any bargains on sectionals. I found the below item, which seems to offer a substantial savings on sectionals rather than buying them from Sporty's or at your local FBO. Ebay item number 4501168927 <IMG SRC="http://pics.ebaystatic.com/aw/pics/s.gif" WIDTH="12" HEIGHT="1" BORDER="0" DATASIZE="49"> This item may have some use in planning routes, but I'd sure hate to print out a slew of charts on my color laser printer. Still, it may be good to keep loaded in a laptop. S.B.


    Message 4


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    Time: 03:00:03 PM PST US
    From: TBYH@aol.com
    Subject: Lower longerons
    Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes anyway. I cut some of that beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the top and bottom longerons. I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but seems like there will be an awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up that way. I read the one fellow steamed the front portion of the lower longeron to get it to bend easier. What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of getting a length of two- or three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one end, filling with water, heating to a boil and then putting longeron in there. If that's the right solution, how long should I leave the spruce in there? Will that weaken the wood after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks! Fred B. La Crosse, WI _TBYH@aol.com_ (mailto:TBYH@aol.com)


    Message 5


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    Time: 04:03:58 PM PST US
    From: "tmbrant1@netzero.net" <tmbrant1@netzero.net>
    Subject: Re: Lower longerons
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "tmbrant1@netzero.net" <tmbrant1@netzero.net> I just glued mine up - didn't seem like that much stress at all. Interested to see what other say though. Tom B.


    Message 6


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    Time: 04:24:59 PM PST US
    From: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Lower longerons
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> Hi Fred, I had the same thoughts a couple to three months ago when I was faced with the same delima. I found that after the longerones lay in the jig for awhile, and they porbably will, they will eventually take on the shape of the jig and there will be much less stress than you might think. I don't think you will gain much by soaking or boiling the ends of the longerones as they will eventually conform to their new shape. Seems like spruce just wants to bend (warp) anyway so all you are doing is guiding it in the direction that you want it to go. Just be gentle while bending them into the jig so you don't crack or break one. By soaking or boiling them, the wood will swell and make it hard to fit into the jig holding blocks. Others may have a different opinion than mine, but it worked well for me. Also be careful that you have the grain running in the right direction, ie. perpendicular to the plane of the table top. Doc --- TBYH@aol.com wrote: > Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes > anyway. I cut some of that > beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the > top and bottom longerons. > I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but > seems like there will be an > awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up > that way. I read the one > fellow steamed the front portion of the lower > longeron to get it to bend easier. > What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of > getting a length of two- or > three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one > end, filling with water, > heating to a boil and then putting longeron in > there. If that's the right > solution, how long should I leave the spruce in > there? Will that weaken the wood > after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly > appreciated. > > Many thanks! > > Fred B. > La Crosse, WI > _TBYH@aol.com_ (mailto:TBYH@aol.com) > __________________________________ www.yahoo.com


    Message 7


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    Time: 04:29:15 PM PST US
    From: "Richard Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
    Subject: Re: Lower longerons
    Fred The wood will relax it self over time. Dick N. ----- Original Message ----- From: TBYH@aol.com To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 4:59 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lower longerons Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes anyway. I cut some of that beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the top and bottom longerons. I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but seems like there will be an awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up that way. I read the one fellow steamed the front portion of the lower longeron to get it to bend easier. What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of getting a length of two- or three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one end, filling with water, heating to a boil and then putting longeron in there. If that's the right solution, how long should I leave the spruce in there? Will that weaken the wood after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks! Fred B. La Crosse, WI TBYH@aol.com


    Message 8


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    Time: 04:32:59 PM PST US
    From: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Lower longerons
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> Fred, I meant to say that the grain should run with the plane of the table, not perpendicular to it. Sorry about that. Good luck and let us know if you have any further questions. Doc --- Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> wrote: > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen > Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> > > Hi Fred, > > I had the same thoughts a couple to three months ago > when I was faced with the same delima. I found that > after the longerones lay in the jig for awhile, and > they porbably will, they will eventually take on the > shape of the jig and there will be much less stress > than you might think. I don't think you will gain > much by soaking or boiling the ends of the > longerones > as they will eventually conform to their new shape. > Seems like spruce just wants to bend (warp) anyway > so > all you are doing is guiding it in the direction > that > you want it to go. Just be gentle while bending > them > into the jig so you don't crack or break one. By > soaking or boiling them, the wood will swell and > make > it hard to fit into the jig holding blocks. Others > may have a different opinion than mine, but it > worked > well for me. Also be careful that you have the grain > running in the right direction, ie. perpendicular to > the plane of the table top. > > Doc > --- TBYH@aol.com wrote: > > > Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes > > anyway. I cut some of that > > beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for > the > > top and bottom longerons. > > I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but > > seems like there will be an > > awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up > > that way. I read the one > > fellow steamed the front portion of the lower > > longeron to get it to bend easier. > > What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of > > getting a length of two- or > > three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one > > end, filling with water, > > heating to a boil and then putting longeron in > > there. If that's the right > > solution, how long should I leave the spruce in > > there? Will that weaken the wood > > after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly > > appreciated. > > > > Many thanks! > > > > Fred B. > > La Crosse, WI > > _TBYH@aol.com_ (mailto:TBYH@aol.com) > > > > > > > __________________________________ > www.yahoo.com > > > > > > > > Click on the > this > by the > Admin. > > Contributions > any other > Forums. > > http://www.matronics.com/subscription > http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm > http://www.matronics.com/archives > http://www.matronics.com/photoshare > http://www.matronics.com/emaillists > > > > > > __________________________________ www.yahoo.com


    Message 9


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    Time: 07:48:27 PM PST US
    From: "Stacy Clark" <stacy@unicom-alaska.com>
    Subject: Re: Lower longerons
    Fred, Had no problem laying mine in the jig a couple months ago. Which way's your grain running? In the end I ran mine with the grain laying horizontal (parallel) to the run of the longeron (although either direction worked). Important word of advise: Use more jig blocks than you think you need then double screw them so they don't pivot around a single screw (this is especially true for the side trusses and braces). Though my second fuselage side is acceptable "it ain't perfect" compared to the other one. I've had to suck up about an 1/8" bow (top to bottom mid-fuselage) by clamping the two side together so they're even and then gluing on the gussets. This was caused by minute slipage of a couple side trusses during their glue-up (i.e.: slipped overnight). That may sound Greek but if it happens to you you'll know exactly what I'm talking about. Stacy There is only one greater thing than to believe in the impossible...and that is to achieve it -- Stacy Clark ----- Original Message ----- From: TBYH@aol.com To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Friday, November 05, 2004 1:59 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lower longerons Probably an oft repeated questions, but here goes anyway. I cut some of that beautiful Sitka spruce into 1x1-inch strips for the top and bottom longerons. I can bend the bottom longeron into the jig, but seems like there will be an awful lot of pent-up stress if I just glue it up that way. I read the one fellow steamed the front portion of the lower longeron to get it to bend easier. What's the right way to do this -- I'm thinking of getting a length of two- or three-inch pipe, four feet long or so, capping one end, filling with water, heating to a boil and then putting longeron in there. If that's the right solution, how long should I leave the spruce in there? Will that weaken the wood after it dries? Some guidance would be greatly appreciated. Many thanks! Fred B. La Crosse, WI TBYH@aol.com


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:59:52 PM PST US
    From: Javier Cruz <javcr@prodigy.net.mx>
    Subject: Re: Lower longerons
    Hi Fred When i made the wing tips i soak the 1x1 spruce for the curve, i let the spruce about 10 days and was not posible to bend it, for the fuselage, just i draw on the table the fuselage side and made a provisional jig on the table with wood blocks and bolts for longerons and braces, i did install first the longerons, the braces and all gussets, whit the large of the longerons is not much stress there, and both sides were almost identical, check where gussets should be and where not, Good luck on your project. About the formica, i don't know if the translation was right Carl, i have been checked it and it looks fragile, i think that Don is right, Thanks for your comments . Javier Cruz




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