Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:19 AM - Re: started some covering (Phillips, Jack)
2. 04:57 AM - Re: started some covering (FTLovley@aol.com)
3. 05:15 AM - Re: started some covering (Phillips, Jack)
4. 07:22 AM - building progress on NX799DB (Douwe Blumberg)
5. 08:07 AM - UV blocking, Rustoleum Paint on fabric (N321TX@wmconnect.com)
6. 08:47 AM - Re: started some covering (Les Schubert)
7. 08:54 AM - Re: started some covering (bike.mike)
8. 10:56 AM - Re: UV blocking, Rustoleum Paint on fabric (gbowen@ptialaska.net)
9. 11:45 AM - Re: started some covering (FTLovley@aol.com)
10. 01:04 PM - Re: started some covering (Michael D Cuy)
11. 02:22 PM - Re: started some covering (hjarrett)
12. 03:28 PM - Re: Der Faker Fokker is for sale! (Carl Vought)
13. 03:39 PM - Re: started some covering (Carl Vought)
14. 04:03 PM - Re: started some covering (Galen Hutcheson)
15. 05:03 PM - Re: started some covering (Les Schubert)
16. 07:15 PM - Spruce or Fir? (bpjardine@comcast.net)
17. 08:20 PM - Re: started some covering (Rcaprd@aol.com)
18. 08:24 PM - Re:I FINALLY got to fly N327BC!!!! (Bert Conoly)
19. 08:52 PM - Re:I FINALLY got to fly N327BC!!!! (Mike Green)
20. 09:31 PM - HVLP reccomendations (DJ Vegh)
21. 09:36 PM - Re: Re:I FINALLY got to fly N327BC!!!! (Javier Cruz)
22. 10:10 PM - Re: Spruce or Fir? (Clif Dawson)
23. 10:17 PM - Re: Der Faker Fokker is for sale! (Clif Dawson)
24. 10:59 PM - don't send me this shit (Isaiahmccole@aol.com)
25. 11:27 PM - Re: Spruce or Fir? (Galen Hutcheson)
26. 11:37 PM - Re: Der Faker Fokker is for sale! (Matt Lansford)
Message 1
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Subject: | started some covering |
When I covered my wings, I did the rib-stitching by myself, with the
wing laying flat on two sawhorses. Did the left wing in 12 hours of
solid work, with breaks just for eating and nature calls. Next day I
could hardly move, from all the ducking under the wing and maneuvering
the needle. When it came time to do the right wing, I spaced the work
out over a week and found it much more comfortable. It would have been
great to have a helper and stand the wing up vertically.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
I found that when it came to rib stitching the wings it went really
quickly with a good helper/ assistant/ partner. I was fortunate in that
I was able to recruit my wife . We set the wing up on edge with one of
us on each side. Towards the end we were doing a rib in 15 minutes and
we were still speaking to each other. Now the first rib took a lot
longer (about an hour). I used the poly fiber system too.
Les
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: FTLovley@aol.com
The lack of tail ribstitching should not be classified as "a dangerous
rumor", as Bernard Pietenpol never stitched the tail surfaces on any of his
airplanes, and I never stitched any of them on my Pietenpol airplanes either.
If the
fabric is stuck properly to the ribs, this is more than sufficient.
Forrest Lovley
Jordan MN
Message 3
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Subject: | started some covering |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <jphillip@alarismed.com>
The operative word in this statement is "IF". The question here is "why
not rib-stitch the tail surfaces?" I can't believe anyone who would go
to all the trouble to build their own airplane would then try to
eliminate a couple hours extra work to avoid rib stitching the tail. If
this corner is cut, it makes you wonder what other corners the builder
would cut, possibly compromising safety. It is obviously safer to
stitch it. And it is good practice before going on to stitching the
wings.
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: FTLovley@aol.com
The lack of tail ribstitching should not be classified as "a dangerous
rumor", as Bernard Pietenpol never stitched the tail surfaces on any of
his
airplanes, and I never stitched any of them on my Pietenpol airplanes
either. If the
fabric is stuck properly to the ribs, this is more than sufficient.
Forrest Lovley
Jordan MN
Message 4
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Subject: | building progress on NX799DB |
Hey guys,
Somebody asked for updates, here's mine.
Got my Model A back from my rebuilder and decided to mount it on a test stand so
I can work all the kinks out with easy access. Got my prop and just have to
plumb everything and start her up!!
Built a "scooped out" rear seat out of Eglass so it comforms to my bottom, and
drops me down about two inches into the cockpit. Was careful to leave clearence
for elevator cables. Built a curved front seat out of carbon fiber just to
see, and it is much more comfortable, in case I ever fly anybody.
We're covered, have to rib stitch and tape the whole thing and finish. Do the sheet
metal and all the hundreds of little things. Hoped to have her at Brodhead,
but not this year.
Douwe
Message 5
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Subject: | UV blocking, Rustoleum Paint on fabric |
I'm trying to find some info on the ability of Rustoleum oil based paint in
regard to it's ability to protect fabric from UV damage.
What level of protection does Rustoleum provide in UV absorption? (I can't
find any info on this subject) and out here in the Southwest, we have very
strong and harsh light (ask DJ...)
I only have experience in doping a silver coat of butyrate (with silver
added) over nitrate, and then using a focused Mag flashlight to check light
penetration.
Thanks,
S.B.
Message 6
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Subject: | started some covering |
d.com>
Jack
And while we are at it lets put extra nails and screws in all the joints
because you know maybe the glue won't hold and I am sure there
are plenty of other places we can overkill too. If Bernie Pietenpol,
and the covering manufacturer, and books available on the subject
provide guidelines why not listen to them. Sure if you have nothing
better to do with your time go ahead.
And if you think about it, what is the purpose of the stitching. It is
to keep the fabric firmly in place where you can get a low pressure
area on the outside (or high pressure on the inside). So you need it
on the top of the wing and on the bottom because of Bernie's curved
up area.
Anyway my plane is a single place so the only neck I am risking is mine.
Les
At 05:15 AM 07/02/2005 -0800, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
><jphillip@alarismed.com>
>
>The operative word in this statement is "IF". The question here is "why
>not rib-stitch the tail surfaces?" I can't believe anyone who would go
>to all the trouble to build their own airplane would then try to
>eliminate a couple hours extra work to avoid rib stitching the tail. If
>this corner is cut, it makes you wonder what other corners the builder
>would cut, possibly compromising safety. It is obviously safer to
>stitch it. And it is good practice before going on to stitching the
>wings.
>
>Jack Phillips
>
>-----Original Message-----
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: FTLovley@aol.com
>
>The lack of tail ribstitching should not be classified as "a dangerous
>rumor", as Bernard Pietenpol never stitched the tail surfaces on any of
>his
>airplanes, and I never stitched any of them on my Pietenpol airplanes
>either. If the
>fabric is stuck properly to the ribs, this is more than sufficient.
>Forrest Lovley
>Jordan MN
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
Under the "If Bernie didn't do it, it's overkill" philosophy, I guess you don't
use seatbelts either.
----- Original Message -----
From: Les Schubert
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 8:42 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: started some covering
... I am sure there are plenty of other places we can overkill too. If Bernie
Pietenpol, and the covering manufacturer, and books available on the subject
provide guidelines why not listen to them. Sure if you have nothing better to
do with your time go ahead.
Message 8
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Subject: | UV blocking, Rustoleum Paint on fabric |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "gbowen@ptialaska.net" <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
Don't know about Rustoleum for fabric, but I just today bought the Dupont
automotive paint needed to do the entire Piete N-1033B. Fabric is in Stits
thru the silver coat, I can highly recommend this over normal dope. The
Polybrush two coats filled the fabric, the Polyspray is already cut and
filled with proper amount of al to silver it up and protect from UV. You
just open the cans and use as is, after stirring. More expensive than dope
but based on my experience, worth every penny. Bought a HVLP top filling
spry gun from HD for $80, at 40 psi, no runs no drips and no errors. Took
approx 2 gallons of polybrush, and 3 gallons of polyspry to do entire
plane. Bought 1 gal. Dupont acrylic/polyurethane plus 1 qrt of the
plasticizer needed (the stuff the pro painters add to automotive paints so
they can be painted on plastic flexible parts like car bumpers, solvent
reducer required to spry. The entire auto paint bill was $180. May need
additional $50 in auto paint to do nifty trim. A little paint goes a long
way if you've properly filled the fabric with Stits. Good luck.
Gordon Bowen
Original Message:
-----------------
From: N321TX@wmconnect.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: UV blocking, Rustoleum Paint on fabric
I'm trying to find some info on the ability of Rustoleum oil based paint in
regard to it's ability to protect fabric from UV damage.
What level of protection does Rustoleum provide in UV absorption? (I can't
find any info on this subject) and out here in the Southwest, we have very
strong and harsh light (ask DJ...)
I only have experience in doping a silver coat of butyrate (with silver
added) over nitrate, and then using a focused Mag flashlight to check light
penetration.
Thanks,
S.B.
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: FTLovley@aol.com
Bernard Pietenpol DID use seat belts...I still have the original one I took
out of Pietenpol Scout N-12942. Bernard Pietenpol DID NOT stitch the fabric on
the tail surfaces or the ailerons...it wasn't needed if the fabric was stuck
to the ribs of the tail surfaces properly. I still have the original fabric
from the rudders of N-12937 and N-12942. The last airplane he built, N-899H,
also still has its original fabric...with no stitching of the tail surfaces or
ailerons.
Forrest Lovley
Jordan MN
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
I think to not stitch the tail surfaces is quite foolish, even if Bernie or
others didn't.
When you look back over your shoulders, the propwash buffets those surfaces
and brace cables
pretty good----I know the fabric glues are good but I chose not to glue the
fabric to any ribs so that
the heat taughtening process could be equal and complete before rib
stitiching. I'm sure there
are lots of things we would short-cut in building and still live many years
to talk about it, but.....
Mike C. 6 years and 300 hours
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
Guys,
Rib stitching can be REALLY hard on the back, even when you put the wing vertical.
There IS a trick that makes it MUCH faster and easier.
First lay out where all the holes are going to be on each side of each rib by punching
a hole with the needle (ALL the holes on both sides of the wing). You
can get them really straight by snapping a line and they look REALLY professional
that way. Next you get one needle for EACH RIB. Sit on a rolling chair
and look through one hole to place the needle through the opposite side hole one
rib after another. All you do is roll down the wing till you have the needles
all through to the other side. Roll around to the other side and pull the
needle through each one and pass it back the same way on the other side of the
rib. Roll around the first side, tie the knot and pass the needles through
for the next stitch. By repeating the needle motions over and over you save a
TON of time walking around and your back stays comfortable in the chair. When
you have done a few rows of stitches it is time to hoist the wing higher so
the stitches are at eye level again (I hung my wing from pulleys from the hangar
roof joist and moving it lets you stretch ever 10 minutes or so). Using this
method (if I remembered all the steps) you will save DAYS and end up making
you much nicer to your dog and wife when you get home. With a moderately bright
light (a couple or three 40 watt bulbs spaced across each side) it is easy
to pass the needle through and you don't need help from a second person.
The cost of the extra needles is well worth it and I'm sure we could pass them
on to the next guy to recover some cost if you are a Scott like me.
Hank J
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 7:19 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: started some covering
When I covered my wings, I did the rib-stitching by myself, with the wing laying
flat on two sawhorses. Did the left wing in 12 hours of solid work, with
breaks just for eating and nature calls. Next day I could hardly move, from all
the ducking under the wing and maneuvering the needle. When it came time to
do the right wing, I spaced the work out over a week and found it much more
comfortable. It would have been great to have a helper and stand the wing up
vertically.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
I found that when it came to rib stitching the wings it went really quickly
with a good helper/ assistant/ partner. I was fortunate in that I was able to
recruit my wife . We set the wing up on edge with one of us on each side. Towards
the end we were doing a rib in 15 minutes and we were still speaking to each
other. Now the first rib took a lot longer (about an hour). I used the poly
fiber system too.
Les
Message 12
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|
Subject: | Re: Der Faker Fokker is for sale! |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Carl Vought" <carbarvo@knology.net>
Do you think you could get interested in a kit engine??? There is a kit of
castings for a 7-cylinder and a 5-cylinder available under the name of HCI,
which was designed by Jack Hereford of New Haven, MO. He advertises in
"machinist's Workshop" magazine.The cylinders and pistons are VW. There's at
least one at Brodhead..maybe more. You'd have to talk to Jack Hereford about
kit contents and cost.....Carl Vought----- Original Message -----
From: "Steve Ruse" <steve@wotelectronics.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Der Faker Fokker is for sale!
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Steve Ruse"
<steve@wotelectronics.com>
>
> Wow...neat plane. The only thing I would be afraid of is the cost to keep
> the radial engine going. From my (very limited) experience, they are
> anything but cheap, especially when they are rare. Does anyone here know
> much about the Lambert radial?
>
> Steve Ruse
> Dallas, TX
>
> do not archive
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Matt
> Lansford
> Sent: Sunday, February 06, 2005 11:04 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Der Faker Fokker is for sale!
>
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Matt Lansford"
<lansford@rgv.rr.com>
>
> Check it out! http://www.texasairmuseum.com/pietenpol/index.htm
>
> Matt
>
>
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/2005
>
> --
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG Anti-Virus.
> Version: 7.0.300 / Virus Database: 265.8.5 - Release Date: 2/3/2005
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
I did something very similar. The wing was stood on its nose in a little rack made
for the purpose (padded, same shape as the L/E). Next, I made 15 needles out
of welding rod, punched all the holes. I ran all the needles through the holes
on each rib and used a "starting knot" at each site (this is approved by Stitts).
As each rib was finished, I moved on to the next one. I stitched the tail
feathers simply because they are stitched on the J-3.....Carl Vought
----- Original Message -----
From: hjarrett
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 5:22 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: started some covering
Guys,
Rib stitching can be REALLY hard on the back, even when you put the wing vertical.
There IS a trick that makes it MUCH faster and easier.
First lay out where all the holes are going to be on each side of each rib by
punching a hole with the needle (ALL the holes on both sides of the wing). You
can get them really straight by snapping a line and they look REALLY professional
that way. Next you get one needle for EACH RIB. Sit on a rolling chair
and look through one hole to place the needle through the opposite side hole
one rib after another. All you do is roll down the wing till you have the needles
all through to the other side. Roll around to the other side and pull the
needle through each one and pass it back the same way on the other side of
the rib. Roll around the first side, tie the knot and pass the needles through
for the next stitch. By repeating the needle motions over and over you save
a TON of time walking around and your back stays comfortable in the chair. When
you have done a few rows of stitches it is time to hoist the wing higher so
the stitches are at eye level again (I hung my wing from pulleys from the hangar
roof joist and moving it lets you stretch ever 10 minutes or so). Using
this method (if I remembered all the steps) you will save DAYS and end up making
you much nicer to your dog and wife when you get home. With a moderately bright
light (a couple or three 40 watt bulbs spaced across each side) it is easy
to pass the needle through and you don't need help from a second person.
The cost of the extra needles is well worth it and I'm sure we could pass them
on to the next guy to recover some cost if you are a Scott like me.
Hank J
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 7:19 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: started some covering
When I covered my wings, I did the rib-stitching by myself, with the wing laying
flat on two sawhorses. Did the left wing in 12 hours of solid work, with
breaks just for eating and nature calls. Next day I could hardly move, from
all the ducking under the wing and maneuvering the needle. When it came time
to do the right wing, I spaced the work out over a week and found it much more
comfortable. It would have been great to have a helper and stand the wing up
vertically.
Jack
-----Original Message-----
I found that when it came to rib stitching the wings it went really quickly
with a good helper/ assistant/ partner. I was fortunate in that I was able to
recruit my wife . We set the wing up on edge with one of us on each side. Towards
the end we were doing a rib in 15 minutes and we were still speaking to
each other. Now the first rib took a lot longer (about an hour). I used the poly
fiber system too.
Les
Message 14
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s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=0Q88fOXv2G8JSE6u6w2GhQaET5K1xP1Dn4pGzLQnfMyOMWw4dXDHuVrZNtgHqjOSY+HNx7P4+Tl9t1xeCo3J4gQl0QsrffwVPdW7xOwYcCvpmQJdOY38XCbrcpdlWY1FignrTgKw0zb9VzgXH7tZVMI/1syj7PNpPlRtYAqqY2s=
;
Subject: | Re: started some covering |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
I agree with Mike. All rag and tube airplanes I've
owned had the tail feathers rib stitched. I, too,
intend to heat shrink the fabric before I rib stitch
and not to glue the fabric to the ribs. It will also
make it easier when you have to re-cover the plane.
The tail surfaces get a lot more beating than you
would think. However, I'm sure there are many
examples of planes out there flying with glued-only
fabric on the tail feathers and are flying quite
nicely.
Doc
--- Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov> wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>
> I think to not stitch the tail surfaces is quite
> foolish
>
>
>
>
>
> Contributions
> any other
> Forums.
>
> http://www.matronics.com/subscription
> http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/Pietenpol-List.htm
> http://www.matronics.com/archives
> http://www.matronics.com/photoshare
> http://www.matronics.com/emaillists
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
http://mobile.yahoo.com/maildemo
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
Forrest
Can you provide us with some idea of how/where Bernie attached the belts.
This just
a curiosity item for me, my plane is finished and I am happy with my
attachments.
Les
At 02:44 PM 07/02/2005 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: FTLovley@aol.com
>
>Bernard Pietenpol DID use seat belts...I still have the original one I took
>out of Pietenpol Scout N-12942. Bernard Pietenpol DID NOT stitch the
>fabric on
>the tail surfaces or the ailerons...it wasn't needed if the fabric was stuck
>to the ribs of the tail surfaces properly. I still have the original fabric
>from the rudders of N-12937 and N-12942. The last airplane he built,
>N-899H,
>also still has its original fabric...with no stitching of the tail
>surfaces or
>ailerons.
>Forrest Lovley
>Jordan MN
>
>
Message 16
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0.50 MIME_BOUND_NEXTPART Spam tool pattern in MIME boundary
0.01 RCVD_DOUBLE_IP_LOOSE Received: by and from look like IP addresses
I had a question regarding Spruce or Fir for my Piet? From what I understand Spruce
has the best strength to weight ratio, but it also has its price tag and
shipping costs from Spruce Aircraft. Fir weighs a little more, but does not cost
as much and I can get aircraft grade Fir here were I live, within an hours
drive. Have many builders used Fir, and if so how much extra weight did it add
to the airframe? I guess the question is $$ vs. pounds. Thanks.
I had a question regarding Spruce or Fir for my Piet? From what I understand Spruce
has the beststrength to weight ratio, but it also has its price tag and shipping
costs from Spruce Aircraft. Fir weighs a little more, but does not cost
as much and I can get aircraft grade Fir here were I live, within an hours drive.
Have many builders used Fir, and if so how much extra weight did it add
to the airframe? I guess the question is $$ vs. pounds. Thanks.
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: started some covering |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Rcaprd@aol.com
In a message dated 2/7/05 1:46:26 PM Central Standard Time, FTLovley@aol.com
writes:
<< Bernard Pietenpol DID NOT stitch the fabric on
the tail surfaces or the ailerons...it wasn't needed if the fabric was stuck
to the ribs of the tail surfaces properly. >>
I hadn't realized this. So, this is the source. However, I would still
highly recomend stitching everything. It's not much work, and very good insurance.
Chuck Gantzer
Message 18
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b=jBWiOcCGGZVhHXbl9S+eBLADPTD+jJci/udc/ZtfRB6+vJOo0QoKHM4prGDi6QML;
Subject: | Re:I FINALLY got to fly N327BC!!!! |
Well, I finally got to fly my plane today. I struggled since 1995. I wrestled
with the FAA (and they turned out to be great, by the way) - I've wrestled with
the wind and cold weather for over a month.
I got to fly her twice this afternoon. No surprises. She flew hands off (but
how would i know, I was pretty busy hanging on!)
I'll admit it's a bit overwhelming. How truly amazing - I'll repeat it - AMAZING!
- to break ground in a plane you built from sticks, plywood, fabric and
pieces of metal. You and your family lived every single up and down for over
9 years. You worked almost every spare hour you could give up. You spent every
single surplus dollar you had. You answered and explained and described and
defended and discussed and cussed and dreamed and did without and prayed that
that sucker would work - someday. Over and over and over and over and over again.
And it did. It did!
How TRULY amazing.
You guys that are still building.... DO NOT QUIT! I promise you - it's a life
altering event.
I'll post some pictures in the next few days.....
Now. Get back to the shop and get TO WORK!!!!
bert in Florida!
Message 19
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Subject: | Re:I FINALLY got to fly N327BC!!!! |
Congratulations Bert, I can see your grin from here!! :)
Mike Green
Romsey
AUSTRALIA
Message 20
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Subject: | HVLP reccomendations |
Since Poly-Spray and color coats are in my future I am trying to figure out what
type of equipment to buy for spraying. My dad want's me to buy an $800 Accuspray
HVLP unit but I've heard some of the locals out here at the field say that
a cheap Home Depot unit does just fine.
I'd REALLY love to save the money I'd spend on an Accuspray and use that towards
a transponder. Would a cheap HVLP unit get the job done? I'm not looking for
glass smooth paint but I do want it to look somewhat good.
DJ
Message 21
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Subject: | Re:I FINALLY got to fly N327BC!!!! |
<"020820050314.20670.42082E8E000BEA26000050BE22070009530A02070B9 D 0E069F0D"@comcast.net>
<001901c50d95$fb2d10d0$6501a8c0@Nancy>
Congrats Bert
That events send me back to work to the shop....Happy flights, better landings..
enjoy your plane...
Javier Cruz
do not archive
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: Spruce or Fir? |
<020820050314.20670.42082E8E000BEA26000050BE22070009530A02070B9D0E069F0D@comcast.net>
Go to the chart at the bottom of this page and compare properties;
http://clifdawson.ca/Tools_and_Tips.html
Then to the Matronic search at the bottom of every email and
punch in fir and spruce. This will keep you busy for a long time. :-)
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: bpjardine@comcast.net
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 7:14 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Spruce or Fir?
I had a question regarding Spruce or Fir for my Piet? From what I understand
Spruce has the best strength to weight ratio, but it also has its price tag and
shipping costs from Spruce Aircraft. Fir weighs a little more, but does not
cost as much and I can get aircraft grade Fir here were I live, within an hours
drive. Have many builders used Fir, and if so how much extra weight did it add
to the airframe? I guess the question is $$ vs. pounds. Thanks.
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Der Faker Fokker is for sale! |
<004001c50d63$8ea182c0$284fd618@knology.net>
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
And then there's Rotec......
http://www.rotecradialengines.com/
Clif
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Carl Vought" <carbarvo@knology.net>
>
> Do you think you could get interested in a kit engine??? There is a kit of
> castings for a 7-cylinder and a 5-cylinder available under the name of
HCI,
> which was designed by Jack Hereford of New Haven, MO. He advertises in
> "machinist's Workshop" magazine.The cylinders and pistons are VW. There's
at
> least one at Brodhead..maybe more. You'd have to talk to Jack Hereford
about
> kit contents and cost.....Carl Vought----- Original Message -----
> From: "Steve Ruse" <steve@wotelectronics.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, February 07, 2005 12:57 AM
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Der Faker Fokker is for sale!
>
>
Message 24
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Subject: | don't send me this shit |
In a message dated 2/7/2005 9:32:34 PM Pacific Standard Time, djv@imagedv.com
writes:
Since Poly-Spray and color coats are in my future I am trying to figure out
what type of equipment to buy for spraying. My dad want's me to buy an $800
Accuspray HVLP unit but I've heard some of the locals out here at the field say
that a cheap Home Depot unit does just fine.
I'd REALLY love to save the money I'd spend on an Accuspray and use that
towards a transponder. Would a cheap HVLP unit get the job done? I'm not looking
for glass smooth paint but I do want it to look somewhat good.
DJ
Message 25
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|
s=s1024; d=yahoo.com;
b=kHjj4ese/ddqro5coT7INI/eLMvGzRtMN4uyVDCWyYhb/tQsrgLNugzQQqAf+gE6MAitAu55cCqtFrrmixzJX55VeFSj2+RgPVul40OqqqDfzcMsl6tW+4SKs+kxOB67y7B1HLg/cERNQ75JCYMGio7JeZzFhpEXpiJ1QC0Yhv0=
;
Subject: | Re: Spruce or Fir? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
I bought my spruce from the local lumber yard. Every
square inch is not A/C grade so you have to cut it up
to seperate out the good stuff. There is as lot of
waste, but you still save well over half the cost of
ordering ACS&S stuff. You need a table saw and a good
blade. I bought 2"x6" of different lengths. Buy the
vertical grain or what is called "quarter sawn"
pieces.
Doc
--- bpjardine@comcast.net wrote:
> I had a question regarding Spruce or Fir for my
> Piet? From what I understand Spruce has the best
> strength to weight ratio, but it also has its price
> tag and shipping costs from Spruce Aircraft. Fir
> weighs a little more, but does not cost as much and
> I can get aircraft grade Fir here were I live,
> within an hours drive. Have many builders used Fir,
> and if so how much extra weight did it add to the
> airframe? I guess the question is $$ vs. pounds.
Thanks.
__________________________________
http://my.yahoo.com
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Der Faker Fokker is for sale! |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Matt Lansford" <lansford@rgv.rr.com>
Anybody know how much those are?
Matt
----- Original Message -----
From: "Clif Dawson" <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Der Faker Fokker is for sale!
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
>
> And then there's Rotec......
>
> http://www.rotecradialengines.com/
>
> Clif
>
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