Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Thu 04/14/05


Total Messages Posted: 2



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 08:28 PM - Pre-Buy Inspection (Rcaprd@aol.com)
     2. 08:50 PM - Re: Pre-Buy Inspection (Mark)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 08:28:08 PM PST US
    From: Rcaprd@aol.com
    Subject: Pre-Buy Inspection
    Steve, I looked at all the pictures. Can't tell much about the engine from the pictures. The health of the engine is determined by the compression test, inspection of the oil screen, oil consumption listed in the log book, visible oil leaks, visible exhaust leaks at the flange...that kind of stuff. Wipe off any oil on your first inspection, before starting the engine, then after the engine run, you can see how much is actually leaking. Slight oil leaks are acceptable, and you shouldn't really expect to find a completely dry cowling area. Pull and push on the prop / crankshaft to feel the end play in the crank. Klunk / klunk - You should feel about .005 to .010. Serviceable limit is .025. Push up and down on the prop to check front bearing clearance, while holding some back pressure, especially if you note oil leak at the front seal. You shouldn't really very much at all, but don't confuse the for and aft movement of the crank, with up and down play...that's why you hold some back pressure while trying to feel up and down play in the crank. Shake and wiggle everything to look for loose items, but be careful not to break anything. Do that on the entire airframe. Tighten up anything you find loose. Look for cracks in all steel parts, especially the landing gear, and engine mount. Cracks are more easily seen if the item is painted white. Have a rag with yo to wipe things off for a better look. Bright flashlight, mirror, note pad & pen are a must, and a magnifying glass is also a good idea. Take your time, and touch and feel every item on the entire airframe. Have a good look at the log books (be careful to have clean hands !!). Make a plan of the sequence of the inspection, and don't be tempted to jump around. Complete each portion, and take notes. The EAA puts out a good checklist to give you a starting point. I think you'll find it if you search their site. If not, I think I have it somewhere in the bits & bytes of my computer, and I could e-mail it to you directly. Be well rested and alert before you begin the inspection, probably first thing in the morning. Take your time...this is a LOT more than a pre-flight inspection...probably take at least a few hours, before you even start the engine. You could even take a break after the taxi runs, and go have lunch, and relax for a while. Gives you an opportunity to talk about the things you've just done. Don't get in a hurry, enjoy and learn !! The pics of the 172 landing in the field was more impressive !! Great job getting 'er down !! I hope I never have to go through anything like that !! You guys must be living right !! Chuck G.


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:50:50 PM PST US
    From: Mark <aerialphotos@dp.net>
    Subject: Re: Pre-Buy Inspection
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Mark <aerialphotos@dp.net> Rcaprd@aol.com wrote: > Steve, > I looked at all the pictures. Can't tell much about the engine > from the pictures. The health of the engine is determined by the > compression test, inspection of the oil screen, oil consumption listed > in the log book, visible oil leaks, visible exhaust leaks at the > flange...that kind of stuff. Wipe off any oil on your > first inspection, before starting the engine, then after the engine > run, you can see how much is actually leaking. Slight oil leaks are > acceptable, and you shouldn't really expect to find a completely dry > cowling area. Pull and push on the prop / crankshaft to feel the end > play in the crank. Klunk / klunk - You should feel about .005 to > .010. Serviceable limit is .025. Push up and down on the prop to > check front bearing clearance, while holding some back pressure, > especially if you note oil leak at the front seal. You shouldn't > really very much at all, but don't confuse the for and aft movement of > the crank, with up and down play...that's why you hold some back > pressure while trying to feel up and down play in the crank. Shake > and wiggle everything to look for loose items, but be careful not to > break anything. Do that on the entire airframe. Tighten up anything > you find loose. Look for cracks in all steel parts, especially the > landing gear, and engine mount. Cracks are more easily seen if the > item is painted white. Have a rag with yo to wipe things off for a > better look. Bright flashlight, mirror, note pad & pen are a must, > and a magnifying glass is also a good idea. Take your time, and touch > and feel every item on the entire airframe. Have a good look at the > log books (be careful to have clean hands !!). Make a plan of the > sequence of the inspection, and don't be tempted to jump around. > Complete each portion, and take notes. The EAA puts out a good > checklist to give you a starting point. I think you'll find it if you > search their site. If not, I think I have it somewhere in the bits & > bytes of my computer, and I could e-mail it to you directly. > Be well rested and alert before you begin the inspection, probably > first thing in the morning. Take your time...this is a LOT more than > a pre-flight inspection...probably take at least a few hours, before > you even start the engine. You could even take a break after the taxi > runs, and go have lunch, and relax for a while. Gives you an > opportunity to talk about the things you've just done. Don't get in a > hurry, enjoy and learn !! > The pics of the 172 landing in the field was more impressive !! > Great job getting 'er down !! I hope I never have to go through > anything like that !! You guys must be living right !! > > Chuck G. One other thing if the engine hasn't been used much recently. Id find a mechanic with a borescope to actually look down inside the engine. They will usually start ok, and run just fine, but lack of use can often lead to rust inside the engine. That will hold compression till its used regularly again, then lo and behold the rust works off and you have a low time engine with no compression and needs a complete overhaul. Sometimes if you are really not so lucky the cam and the crank can be bad as well. If you can't get a mechanic with a scope, Id pay them to pull a cylinder to actually look inside and see just what you have. A penny spent up front may well save thousands later.




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