Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - Re: AN Hardware (owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto)
2. 04:53 AM - Wag Aero/sources (Michael D Cuy)
3. 05:00 AM - cap screws (Douwe Blumberg)
4. 05:32 AM - Re: Re: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP ()
5. 07:05 AM - drive pins on Model A prop hub (Michael D Cuy)
6. 08:28 AM - Landing gear design sanity check (Rick Holland)
7. 08:56 AM - Re: Landing gear design sanity check (Dick Navratil)
8. 11:33 AM - Drill Guide (DONALD COOLEY)
9. 12:35 PM - Re: Drill Guide (Lynn Knoll)
10. 02:01 PM - Re: Drill Guide (walt evans)
11. 02:04 PM - Re: Re: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP (walt evans)
12. 02:52 PM - Prop borings (Carl Vought)
13. 04:18 PM - Re: Re: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP (Alan Lyscars)
14. 11:03 PM - Re: Drill Guide (TRichmo9@aol.com)
Message 1
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: harvey.rule@bell.ca
You only had to go to school for one day!No wonder you remember everything about
that day!Just pullin your wire ,haha!There is a reason why we are supposed to
use AN hardware.Why temp the Gods.Do as your told .For the little extra it costs,it
may save your life.Don't be a Titanic!
-----Original Message-----
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: AN Hardware
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Egan, John" <jegan@kcc.com>
I'll jump into this one, I took some classes once.... I recall rolled
threads have more radius edges (points and valleys) which is created
when the threads get formed by a die, where cut threads have sharper
points and valleys from being cut. I also recall that a rolled thread,
has a larger minor diameter (the diameter at the root of the thread),
and the major diameter may also be a little larger than that of cut
threads. This is because the material is not being cut away from the
major diameter (shank), it's being re-located to another area of the
bolt. The major diameter of the threaded portion (rolled threads) of the
bolt grows in size, where on cut threads, the material gets cut away
because as you cut, you remove some of the outer diameter. That's my
recollection from that day in school in 1984, and it's not obvious to me
how the threads were formed when I casually look at a bolt.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Ruse
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: AN Hardware
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Steve Ruse
<steve@wotelectronics.com>
John (or anyone),
Is there a simple way to identify cut vs. rolled threads? Rolled
threads are
preferred, correct?
Steve Ruse
N6383J - KFTW
Quoting John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com>:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John Hofmann
> <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com>
>
> Be careful out there. Cadmium plating, proper bolt stretch when
accurately
> torqued and rolled vs. cut threads are three reasons not to skimp on
> hardware, especially in critical areas. I don't think I want to save
the
> couple hundred dollars on the project in hardware costs. Just my two
cents.
>
> -john-
> John Hofmann
> A&P and restorer of a few old flivvers.
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Message 2
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Subject: | Wag Aero/sources |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Chris is absolutely right about Wag Aero---a total ripoff. Guys at the
airport have asked me to make cooling
eyebrows for Cubs and such since they saw that it really is expensive to
buy them thru Wag Aero and how cheaply
you can make them from dead soft .025" aluminum. That is just one example.
There have been many good posts on where to buy decent, reasonably priced
AN hardware and turnbuckles. As plans-built
builders we do have to be creative in finding our building materials like
many of you who have dealt with McCormack Lumber
in Madison.
For AN hardware and sheet steel and aluminum I used (for us
middle-west-to-east-coast Piet nuts, Dillsburg Aeroworks for
all of my hardware--including lift strut/streamlined materials. You have
to know what you want when you call--do the homework'
in the Bingelis books or in the AN sections of Wicks and or ASS catalogs
and give them a try. Dillsburg Aero, 717-432-4589.
They ship same day UPS and you pay after the shipment arrives. It is an
'old-school' operation, but very efficient.
Mike C.
PS--as posted earlier...used whatever type/grade of hardware/steel/aluminum
you want but research it well before you
substitute. There are plenty of other things that can bring a Pietenpol
down--I'd rather not gamble on adding more risk
factors to the plane
Message 3
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Hey,
Re the hardware discussion. On my "A", I'm using a hub adaptor with four bolts
to the engine, and six to the prop. The four bolts to the crank need to be cap
screws, and I absolutely could not find any "AN" cap screws, so I'm using the
best quality ones I could find from a bolt supplier.
Where could one find AN cap screws
Douwe
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP |
You asked for it. Bear in mind that this account was writen for family members
who don't necessarily know anything about Pietenpols.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
>
> From: Rcaprd@aol.com
> Date: 2005/08/11 Thu PM 05:11:32 EDT
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05
>
> In a message dated 8/11/2005 6:19:46 AM Central Standard Time,
> jphillip@alarismed.com writes:
> I wrote a journal of my trip that I can send to you if you want. Total was
> 2,147 miles and 37 hours of flying.
> Jack,
> I would really enjoy hearing about your trip. I am sure most everyone on the
> list would love to hear it, too. Why not just post it in the e-mail form to
> the list ? Include your tail # in the subject line.
>
> Chuck G.
>
>
Message 5
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Subject: | drive pins on Model A prop hub |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Douwe--- I've heard of guys not having drive pins on Model A hubs with bad
results. I'm sure Ken Perkins and such
know you need them but some A builders aren't aware of this.
Mike C.
Message 6
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Subject: | Landing gear design sanity check |
Just wanted to verify my landing gear layout before I start cutting the
tubing. If anyone has a chance this weekend would you measure the distance
from the front landing gear fitting (or bottom of the floor plywood) to the
ground on your Piet?
I came up with 32" to get a 12 degree deck angle and want to make sure I am
not mis-calculating something.
Thanks
--
Rick Holland
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Landing gear design sanity check |
Rick
I'll measure mine this weekend but I just wanted to give you a reminder of the
more important measurement than the angle. Make sure that all said and done,
with the tail up on level, that you will have 9"+ ground clearance for the prop.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2005 10:28 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Landing gear design sanity check
Just wanted to verify my landing gear layout before I start cutting the tubing.
If anyone has a chance this weekend would you measure the distance from the
front landing gear fitting (or bottom of the floor plywood) to the ground on
your Piet?
I came up with 32" to get a 12 degree deck angle and want to make sure I am not
mis-calculating something.
Thanks
--
Rick Holland
Message 8
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Hello Group,
Browsing in a woodworking store, I discovered a nifty Drill Guide Kit (part
#140876) which allows the user to drill holes vertically on flat and round surfaces,
and at a 45 degree angle on corners. It consists of an acrylic base
and six steel guides ranging from 3/16 to 1/2 inch diameter. At $12 it is a useful
addition to any woodworker's shop. The store is called the Wood Gallery
in Rancho Cordova, (Sacramento), California. They ship, too. thewoodgallery@earthlink.net
Keep the sawdust flying! Don Cooley
Message 9
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Thanks Don,
I've been looking for something like this and I ordered one.
Do not archive.
Lynn Knoll
Piet/Vair
Wichita
----- Original Message -----
From: DONALD COOLEY
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2005 1:33 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drill Guide
Hello Group,
Browsing in a woodworking store, I discovered a nifty Drill Guide Kit (part
#140876) which allows the user to drill holes vertically on flat and round
surfaces, and at a 45 degree angle on corners. It consists of an acrylic base
and six steel guides ranging from 3/16 to 1/2 inch diameter. At $12 it is a
useful addition to any woodworker's shop. The store is called the Wood Gallery
in Rancho Cordova, (Sacramento), California. They ship, too. thewoodgallery@earthlink.net
Keep the sawdust flying! Don Cooley
Message 10
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Don,
Got put onto the idea when I started building. I had made my own, but this sound
perfect.
Yes that is one of those little, very useful tools that makes a good job better.
Nice clean holes, without being eggshaped from a "do over"
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: DONALD COOLEY
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, August 12, 2005 2:33 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Drill Guide
Hello Group,
Browsing in a woodworking store, I discovered a nifty Drill Guide Kit (part
#140876) which allows the user to drill holes vertically on flat and round
surfaces, and at a 45 degree angle on corners. It consists of an acrylic base
and six steel guides ranging from 3/16 to 1/2 inch diameter. At $12 it is a
useful addition to any woodworker's shop. The store is called the Wood Gallery
in Rancho Cordova, (Sacramento), California. They ship, too. thewoodgallery@earthlink.net
Keep the sawdust flying! Don Cooley
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <wbeevans@verizon.net>
Jack,
Great account.
I'm envious of the "Man with Iron Cheeks" :
)
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP
> You asked for it. Bear in mind that this account was writen for family
members who don't necessarily know anything about Pietenpols.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
> >
> > From: Rcaprd@aol.com
> > Date: 2005/08/11 Thu PM 05:11:32 EDT
> > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05
> >
> > In a message dated 8/11/2005 6:19:46 AM Central Standard Time,
> > jphillip@alarismed.com writes:
> > I wrote a journal of my trip that I can send to you if you want. Total
was
> > 2,147 miles and 37 hours of flying.
> > Jack,
> > I would really enjoy hearing about your trip. I am sure most everyone
on the
> > list would love to hear it, too. Why not just post it in the e-mail
form to
> > the list ? Include your tail # in the subject line.
> >
> > Chuck G.
> >
> >
>
Message 12
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I have a wooden prop which I plan to install on a Model-A engine in my Aircamper.
The drillings that were in the hub when I got it just don't look right. They're
a little out of round and I don't think the centers are exactly on-the
money (because of the difficulty I have in getting the prop onto the hub). I'd
like to hear what you fellows recommend to correct this. I'm thinking of epoxying
a close-fitting hardwood plug in each hole and redrilling with a Forester
bit, using a vertical mill to locate the hole centers. One could also redrill
the holes and epoxy a steel insert in each hole, then drill the inserts. Whatd'yathink???...Carl
Vought
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Alan Lyscars" <alyscars@maine.rr.com>
Dear Jack,
Thank you, very much, for putting your flight into words. With your
permission, I'll share your experience with others who want to know what
flying's all about.
On day I, too, will write to you about my Aircamper flight from Maine to
OSH. Until that day arrrives, my heart and admiration goes out to you and
all of the fellows who have flown "The Leg".
Very truly yours,
Alan Lyscars
----- Original Message -----
From: <pietflyr@bellsouth.net>
Subject: Re: Re: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead to Oshkosh '05 in NX899JP
> You asked for it. Bear in mind that this account was writen for family
members who don't necessarily know anything about Pietenpols.
>
> Jack Phillips
> NX899JP
Message 14
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don i have a set of those drill guides mine go vdown to a 1/16
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