Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:08 AM - Re: Mods to Model A engine mount.... (Clif Dawson)
2. 04:21 AM - Re: A-65 (Nav8799h@AOL.COM)
3. 04:25 AM - Re: A-65 (Phillips, Jack)
4. 04:28 AM - Re: Garmin GPS196 for dummies ()
5. 09:59 AM - Tape to use on airlerons and elevator (harvey.rule@bell.ca)
6. 02:17 PM - Re: Tape to use on airlerons and elevator (Rcaprd@AOL.COM)
7. 02:39 PM - Re: gap seals (Rcaprd@aol.com)
8. 04:28 PM - A-65 Oil Pressure (Isablcorky@aol.com)
9. 04:50 PM - Re: A-65 Oil Pressure (John Hofmann)
10. 06:01 PM - Re: A-65 Oil Pressure (Rcaprd@aol.com)
11. 06:45 PM - Re: A-65 Oil Pressure (Graham Hansen)
12. 07:24 PM - Re: Mods to Model A engine mount.... (Jim Markle)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mods to Model A engine mount.... |
The welding at the bolt tube joint has already eliminated the
heat treating of the metal for a couple of inches up the tube,
so heating and bending a short length next to the bolt bracket
would probably be OK. Come to think about it, that bit of the
tube is already softened and may just bend the 3=B0 you need.
If you're planning on 12", that's a significant percentage of
the tube length, well over half. The whole idea of that brace
is that the line of force lines up with the center of the tube.
If you bend it at all, especially with strength destroying heat,
you're compromising the structure, a lot. Would you do that
to your wing struts? You might get away with it if you tied
them together in the middle. If you're going to bend the things
only 1/2" over 19" you might as well just pull them in and then
put a small dia brace strut between them, as on the wing struts.
That way the 4130 heat treated strength will still be there. That
engine is pretty heavy and gets a lot "heavier" when maneuvering.
Myself, I would reheat the already softened area within a couple
of inches of the bolt tube and gently push the other end over
a bit, check it, do it again, etc. If at a degree or so it appeared
to be flattening then stop and ponder. Are you sure it's 3=B0? I
just drew it out and it looks more like two. Not much of a bend.
By working close to the bolt tube if you do get into trouble it
would then be easy to add a gusset.
Clif
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Mods to Model A engine mount....
Since I only need a 3 degree bend over a 19" distance (for a change in the hole
location of 1/2" on each side of the engine mount) I'm considering heating
the tubing up and bending it in 1/2". Maybe heating up a 12" length (rather than
a short distance) would not compromise the strength of the tubing......would
that work?
I'm obviously going to run this by my EAA Tech Counselor but these solutions
seem more than adequate....but I sure would like a sanity check from anyone who
cares to help me out here.
Suggestions? Notch/weld or heat/bend?
I welcome all input!
Thanks!
Jim in Plano
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I had the exact same problem on the C-85 with that carb. Try venting the
fuel from the float bowl. I pulled the carb off the engine and found no fuel
in the bowl, reassembled and vented the bowl and we were able to get the thing
running. Haven't had a problem since.
I have about 10" from bottom to tank to bowl, engine runs fine in the normal
attitude with just a small amount, less than 1 gallon in the tank.
Lou
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Corky,
Eight inches is not much (unless you're talking about something dirtier
than airplane engines). Of course, what the carburetor sees is not the
height to the bottom of the fuel tank, but to the top of the fuel. Is
your tank full when you are trying to start it? Have you tried a fuel
flow test to see what flow rate you get from the tank if you have the
fuel line disconnected from the carb (but at the same height as the
connector going into the float chamber)? You should see at least 7
gallons per hour through the fuel line in this test. Is the 8" you
mentioned with the plane in a 3 point position or level flight? If that
is the level flight position, you might have even less in the 3 point
position.
One thing I found when I was first getting my engine to run was that a
slight leak in the intake system causes a severe drop in fuel mixture,
making it run very lean (which makes it hard to start).
The other thing I found was that Slick had made my ignition harness
incorrectly (brand new mags and harness), and two of my cylinders were
firing in the wrong sequence. Once I figured out which ones were off
and swapped the leads around to get the right firing order, it started
right up. Before then, it was very difficult to start, and ran very
rough - just running on two cylinders. When yours runs on the primer,
does it run smoothly for the 10 or 15 seconds that it runs, or is it
rough?
Jack
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Isablcorky@aol.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A-65
Pieters:
I need a lot of help. Can't start engine without pouring raw fuel in the
top plug holes. Have started twice. First time it ran for about 10
seconds. Next day, same priming procedure, it ran for about 15 seconds.
Has anyone experienced this behavior with your 65? I've overhauled the
carb daily, new steel needle and seat, gaskets. I took the brass
revolving plate, mixture, out. Read the A-65 manual until the print is
fading also the Stromberg NA-S3A1 manual. The only thing I can't comply
with from the manual is the 18 inch head of fuel above the carb. I only
have 8 inches from tank bottom to carb bottom.
Will one of you engine know-hows please come to my rescue?
Mags are very hot from rebuild. Engine has new bearings, guides, rings
etc.
Thanks in advance
Corky In La trying to start this d--- thing in 102 temp.
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin GPS196 for dummies |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: <harvey.rule@sympatico.ca>
>Sometimes you can get downloads off the google site.Ask for the company that the
gps is made from and they may have a download page.
Maybe!
> From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
> Date: 2005/08/22 Mon PM 10:04:19 EST
> To: krnet@mylist.net, pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Garmin GPS196 for dummies
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> Okay, I'll admit it. I'm a dummy. I just talked myself into a Garmin
> GPS196 (black & white) and it comes with a free download of the database
> update. However... nowhere in the manual can I find how to go about
> downloading the update and installing it to the GPS. I know there is an
> interface cable for my PC, but beyond that I'm clueless as to how to snag
> and download the update.
>
> GPS196 users who can help me, please email off-list at taildrags@hotmail.com
> or point me to some instructions somewhere. Thanks.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Tape to use on airlerons and elevator |
I'd like to know what is the best tape to use in these places for gap
cover?I will order the one you guys say is best.Thanks in advance for
any advice.
________________________________
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Tape to use on airlerons and elevator |
In a message dated 8/23/2005 11:59:59 AM Central Standard Time,
harvey.rule@bell.ca writes:
I=E2=80=99d like to know what is the best tape to use in these places for gap cover?I
will order the one you guys say is best.Thanks in advance for any advice.
I used covering material process, applied to both sides, before paint.
Chuck G.
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
In a message dated 8/22/2005 12:40:09 AM Central Standard Time,
adonjr@sbcglobal.net writes:
I was wondering.....how about using piano hinges for elevators? The
only real drawback I can see is that it wouldn't look "authentic". Maybe
function dictates form? I plan using piano hinges for the ailerons, so this seems
not too out of line. Comments?
Don,
I've never seen piano hinges used on the empenage. I suggest you contact Vi
Kappler, and purchase his cast aluminum hinges. Many Pietenpols out there,
including mine, use his empenage hinges. He worked with Bernard Pietenpol for
years. If you give him a call, have a bunch of other questions ready to ask
him, while you have him on the phone.
Vitalis Kapler
1033 Forest Hill Dr. WS
Rochester, MN 55902
phone: 507-288-3322
evenings CST
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | A-65 Oil Pressure |
Pieters,
We have the engine running, finally. Had to cut it off as there is no oil
pressure. I filled the oil outlet to the gauge with oil but nothing happened.
Any comments.
Corky in only 100 degrees today
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: A-65 Oil Pressure |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com>
Corky,
Sounds like your oil pump is not primed. Try raising the tail above your
head for a few seconds. I used to fly a Champ that required this if it sat
for awhile.
TakeCare,
-john-
> Pieters,
>
> We have the engine running, finally. Had to cut it off as there is no oil
> pressure. I filled the oil outlet to the gauge with oil but nothing happened.
> Any comments.
>
> Corky in only 100 degrees today
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: A-65 Oil Pressure |
In a message dated 8/23/2005 6:51:37 PM Central Standard Time,
jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com writes:
Corky,
Sounds like your oil pump is not primed. Try raising the tail above your
head for a few seconds. I used to fly a Champ that required this if it sat
for awhile.
TakeCare,
-john-
I've used this method too, and it was successful. On a previous occassion,
after having had the fuselage in a level position for doing gear mod, I tried
filling a dry oil pump by filling it through the oil pressure line. It took a
least a half hour for the oil in the homemade funnel to slowly make it's way
in. That was also successful. It's just much easier to just raise the tail,
and allow the oil in the screen filter to prime the pump.
Chuck G.
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: A-65 Oil Pressure |
Corky,
Try this method to prime the oil pump:
1. Remove the oil temperature bulb from the oil screen.
2. Shoot some fresh oil into the oil screen with an oil squirt can. Be generous!
3. Re-install oil temperature bulb.
4. Start engine and you should get an oil pressure indication within 30 seconds.
If not, try connecting an oil pressure gauge to the O/P outlet with a short
line (sometimes there is an indication lag with a long line).
I have used this method for over fifty years on small Continentals when raising
the tail didn't produce results.
Let me know how it works for you.
Cheers,
Graham (Pietenpol CF-AUN)
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Mods to Model A engine mount.... |
Thanks Clif!
Bending near the bolt bracket sounds like the ticket!
Am I sure it's 3=B0?
Well, a 1" rise on a triangle with a base (or slope) of 19" works out to about
3 degrees.....so...hey wait.....oops....it should have been a 1/2" rise (duh,
I suppose there's no reason to make up the ENTIRE 1" difference on one side!!!).....uhhh,
a 1/2" rise across 19" is actually 1.51 degrees...so yeah, about 2
degrees.....even better!
I'm gonna heat and bend......
I saw somewhere that you can take a tubing bend out by heating one side of the
tubing to make it draw the tubing in a particular direction. I'm gonna try that.
I'm feeling a LOT better about this now...
thanks again.
(I LOVE this process!!!)
Jim in Plano.....looking forward to having some pockata-pockata sounds in my driveway
in a few weeks....
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|