Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:22 AM - Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/18/05 (Tim Willis)
2. 10:22 AM - Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/18/05 (Tim Willis)
3. 12:19 PM - TRANSFER PUNCHES (Ed G.)
4. 12:27 PM - Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES (Phillips, Jack)
5. 02:06 PM - distance between front wheels (Gary Martens)
6. 02:56 PM - Re: distance between front wheels (Rcaprd@aol.com)
7. 03:15 PM - Transfer punches (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
8. 03:31 PM - New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions. (Dave Case)
9. 04:27 PM - Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES (Dennis Engelkenjohn)
10. 05:24 PM - Re: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions. (Galen Hutcheson)
11. 05:40 PM - Re: distance between wheels (Michael Turrell)
12. 05:43 PM - Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES (Rick Holland)
13. 07:16 PM - Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES (Dennis Engelkenjohn)
14. 07:50 PM - Re: DF weight, latex paint... (Ted Brousseau)
15. 07:56 PM - Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES (Jim Markle)
16. 08:19 PM - Re: Re: DF weight, latex paint... (Doyle Combs)
17. 08:27 PM - Re: Re: DF weight, latex paint... (Gordon Bowen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/18/05 |
Pietenpol-List Digest List <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com>
I'm not contributing to details on which paint to use. I tend to use the best
in most things but haven't come to the paint question yet.
Instead, I want to comment that the repair job with the kids is a great story.
You handled that very well, and likely a lot better than I would have thought
to do after my baby had been torn. You turned their error into a fulfilling
adventure, and they felt better about themselves, as well. Thanks for the story.
Tim
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 2 Msgs - 09/18/05 |
Pietenpol-List Digest List <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com>
I'm not contributing to details on which paint to use. I tend to use the best
in most things but haven't come to the paint question yet.
Instead, I want to comment that the repair job with the kids is a great story.
You handled that very well, and likely a lot better than I would have thought
to do after my baby had been torn. You turned their error into a fulfilling
adventure, and they felt better about themselves, as well. Thanks for the story.
Tim
---------------------------------
Click here to donate to the Hurricane Katrina relief effort.
Message 3
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| Subject: | TRANSFER PUNCHES |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ed G." <flyboy_120@hotmail.com>
I have been around tools all my life but just recently learned of a tool
that I think needs to be shared with the group. If everyone already knows
about them I appologize for wasting your time.
I built my lower motor mount brackets ( the ones that bolt to the
fuselage) several years ago out of 14 gauge steel as called for in the plans
but extended the tabs 1/4" to make room for firewall insulation etc. Drilled
them and the fuselage and bolted them on. The long thin extended tabs
bothered me because they looked too flimsy do do the job of supporting my
extended motor mount. So I made a new set of brakets out of 13 gauge 4130.
the problem I had now was, I have new blanks that need to be drilled
PRECISELY to line up with the holes which were already drilled in the wood
fuselage. I scratched my head for quite a while because I figured if I ran
a drill bit through the wood to mark the steel the flutes of the drill bit
would wollow out the holes in the wood. A center punch wouldnt fit in the
small hole and even if it did it wouldn't necessarily be exactly in the
center. So I made a centerpunch out of 3/16" hardened steel rod ( an old #1
phillips screwdriver) carefully clamped one half of the new bracket to the
fuselage. slid the punch into the hole in the wood from the fuselage side
and tapped it with a hammer. Removed the bracket and viola a centerpunch
mark EXACTLY in the middle of the hole. I drilled it, pinned it to the
fuselage with a bolt and did the rest the same way. After doing all the
holes that way they all lined up perfectly. It worked so good I drew one up
to do the 5/16" motor mount to bracket bolt holes. I took it to my machinist
friend this morning and asked him to make me one out of a 5/16" grade 8
bolt. He said why make one when I have a whole set of them!!!! They are
called TRANSFER PUNCHES. they look like a steel rod with a tiny little point
on one end and his set has about 15 different sizes in it. I was shocked...I
thought it was my great idea. I know I can't be the only one who has fought
with this type of alignment problem. I had no idea that there was a tool out
there designed specifically for this type of job. Like I said, If I'm the
only one that didn't know about this simple but amazingly acurate tool I
apologize, but they work great for any steel piece that you have to redo and
I have a pile of them. Hope it helps someone out there......
Ed Grentzer
Message 4
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| Subject: | TRANSFER PUNCHES |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Just shows what a good idea it really was. Just because someone else
thought of it first doesn't diminish in the least your cleverness in
coming up with this method.
Jack Phillips, PE
Sr. Manager, Disposables Product Development
Clinical Technologies and Services
Cardinal Health
Creedmoor, NC
(919) 528-5212
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed G.
Subject: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ed G." <flyboy_120@hotmail.com>
I have been around tools all my life but just recently learned of a tool
that I think needs to be shared with the group. If everyone already
knows
about them I appologize for wasting your time.
I built my lower motor mount brackets ( the ones that bolt to the
fuselage) several years ago out of 14 gauge steel as called for in the
plans
but extended the tabs 1/4" to make room for firewall insulation etc.
Drilled
them and the fuselage and bolted them on. The long thin extended tabs
bothered me because they looked too flimsy do do the job of supporting
my
extended motor mount. So I made a new set of brakets out of 13 gauge
4130.
the problem I had now was, I have new blanks that need to be drilled
PRECISELY to line up with the holes which were already drilled in the
wood
fuselage. I scratched my head for quite a while because I figured if I
ran
a drill bit through the wood to mark the steel the flutes of the drill
bit
would wollow out the holes in the wood. A center punch wouldnt fit in
the
small hole and even if it did it wouldn't necessarily be exactly in the
center. So I made a centerpunch out of 3/16" hardened steel rod ( an old
#1
phillips screwdriver) carefully clamped one half of the new bracket to
the
fuselage. slid the punch into the hole in the wood from the fuselage
side
and tapped it with a hammer. Removed the bracket and viola a centerpunch
mark EXACTLY in the middle of the hole. I drilled it, pinned it to the
fuselage with a bolt and did the rest the same way. After doing all the
holes that way they all lined up perfectly. It worked so good I drew one
up
to do the 5/16" motor mount to bracket bolt holes. I took it to my
machinist
friend this morning and asked him to make me one out of a 5/16" grade 8
bolt. He said why make one when I have a whole set of them!!!! They are
called TRANSFER PUNCHES. they look like a steel rod with a tiny little
point
on one end and his set has about 15 different sizes in it. I was
shocked...I
thought it was my great idea. I know I can't be the only one who has
fought
with this type of alignment problem. I had no idea that there was a tool
out
there designed specifically for this type of job. Like I said, If I'm
the
only one that didn't know about this simple but amazingly acurate tool I
apologize, but they work great for any steel piece that you have to redo
and
I have a pile of them. Hope it helps someone out there......
Ed Grentzer
Message 5
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| Subject: | distance between front wheels |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gary Martens" <gary_martens@umanitoba.ca>
I have been reading for quite a while but this is my first active
participation. I am building a wooden long fuselage with a Corvair
engine and have a question about the distance between the front
wheels. My plans call for 56 inches to the center of the wheels. This
seems a bit narrow as my Cessna 150 has 80 inches between
wheels.Regards,
gary martens CCA
Room 222 Agriculture Building
Plant Science Department
University of Manitoba
R3T 2N2
(204) 474-8227
gary_martens@umanitoba.ca
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: distance between front wheels |
Gary,
It's great to see you posted your first question. There are a lot of lurkers
out there, and I'm sure lots of questions.
My plane is the Short Fuselage, Split axle gear (I assume you're building the
split axle gear), spring struts (originally bunji struts), and Cont. A65
engine. My wheels are right at the 56" measurement called out in the plans, and
it handles just fine on the ground. Just remember you have 2=BA of camber when
there is no weight on wheels, and even with the weight on the gear, you still
should see the camber. The plans show the wheels perpendicular to the ground,
not really what it should look like when complete, with the weight on the
gear. The gear should be built with 0=BA toe in, in other words, parallel with
the
centerline. If you should err on this dimension, err to the side of toe in,
but get it as close as possible to 0=BA toe in. The C150 is a side by side, so
you should really compare it to something more in the line of a J3 Cub...but
the Cub is probably even a little wider gear than the Piet, because the fuse is
a little wider.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 7
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ETAtAhUAozJsF7wfglDoJD7Fv9eIGSNOA+ICFDC796Pm1EFS/biLG5Ev/x+9zbGH
| Subject: | Transfer punches |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Hi Ed: There ia a quote (i believe from scripture) saying "there s
nothing new under the sun". I believe it's true. I discovered transfer
punches many years ago and have used mine a LOT on my Piet. They are
available threw Harbor Tool at a very reasonable cost. Since I joined
SAA a year ago in Sept. I sent my renewal around the first of this mo.
Today I get my check back with a note from Paul Poberezny thanking me
for being the first renewal of 2006 and saying that after the winter
magazine he will be shutting SAA down. Low membership (2800) and only
1500 are active, Sad. Maybe Tom Poberezny was right to take EAA bigger,
more corporate, and generally beyond the means of most members ( jets
etc ) I'm not complaining about EAA, I am grateful for there work on
LSA-SP, ( my medical is toast ) and I think Young Eagles are a brilliant
move for the future of all aviation. But.....EAA is doing well ( good
for them ) but the newest little guy organization is closing. Leon S.
in Ks. Do not archive
Message 8
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| Subject: | New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions. |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dave Case <dav3xor@gmail.com>
I am trying to get started with building a Pietenpol by putting
together a wing rib jig. Perhaps I've been thinking too hard (very
likely), and I have my mind all in a twist over how to lay out the
shape of the wing on my board. I've seen all the warnings about not
using the full size rib plan because of stretching/shrinkage from the
printer...
So, I'm thinking, the rib is 5 feet long, so I'll need a 5 foot long
line drawn on my board, and all the good straight edges I know about
are 4 feet long (or a bit longer if you use a meter stick). So, will
it be precise enough just to move the straightedge along another foot,
and very carefully line it up with the previous mark, then finish the
job, or is there a better way? I guess I could lay down a chalk line,
but that seems very... non precise? I never took drafting in High
School, can you tell?
Any tips on drawing lines at 90 degrees to this original line? Other
than using a square, and then checking diagonals with other lines for
equal distance? Should I be this anal retentive? Especially when the
original wing was designed on the drawing room floor?
I suppose that most of the small errors above probably go away once
you drive in the nails and run the spline.
I also have been looking at the plans themselves which poses another
question. The original plan for the ribs does not show any vertical
pieces to attach to the spars, the spar only attaches to the ribs at
the top and bottom. The full size rib plan has vertical pieces on the
insides of the spars, and then some websites have vertical pieces on
both sides of the spar, like the ribs from most of the other designs
I've looked at. I'm inclined to go with the version from the full
size plan, unless there's a good reason to do a vertical piece on each
side of the spar?
Oh!, another question, I saw a message a while back about die cutting
gussets, but I can't find it. Were can you get a die like this, and
any idea how much it would cost?
I saw Jack Phillips' plane at Oshkosh; simply gorgeous.
Sorry about all the questions, I've been saving them up.. :)
--
David Case
Dav3xor@gmail.com
www.builddiary.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dennis Engelkenjohn" <wingding@usmo.com>
Another Harbor Freight tool which everyone should have and is cheap and
worth its weight in gold is a "vise brake". It comes in several sizes from
4" up to 8" and has magnetic jaws which stick to the inside of the jaws of
your vise (not beer drinking or women chasing type of vice). Any way, it
uses the vise to make a perfect 90' bend or less or slightly more in light
guage sheet metal. Only drawback is it is only as wide as your vise.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> Just shows what a good idea it really was. Just because someone else
> thought of it first doesn't diminish in the least your cleverness in
> coming up with this method.
>
> Jack Phillips, PE
> Sr. Manager, Disposables Product Development
> Clinical Technologies and Services
> Cardinal Health
> Creedmoor, NC
> (919) 528-5212
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed G.
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 3:18 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ed G." <flyboy_120@hotmail.com>
>
>
> I have been around tools all my life but just recently learned of a tool
>
> that I think needs to be shared with the group. If everyone already
> knows
> about them I appologize for wasting your time.
> I built my lower motor mount brackets ( the ones that bolt to the
> fuselage) several years ago out of 14 gauge steel as called for in the
> plans
> but extended the tabs 1/4" to make room for firewall insulation etc.
> Drilled
> them and the fuselage and bolted them on. The long thin extended tabs
> bothered me because they looked too flimsy do do the job of supporting
> my
> extended motor mount. So I made a new set of brakets out of 13 gauge
> 4130.
> the problem I had now was, I have new blanks that need to be drilled
> PRECISELY to line up with the holes which were already drilled in the
> wood
> fuselage. I scratched my head for quite a while because I figured if I
> ran
> a drill bit through the wood to mark the steel the flutes of the drill
> bit
> would wollow out the holes in the wood. A center punch wouldnt fit in
> the
> small hole and even if it did it wouldn't necessarily be exactly in the
>
> center. So I made a centerpunch out of 3/16" hardened steel rod ( an old
> #1
> phillips screwdriver) carefully clamped one half of the new bracket to
> the
> fuselage. slid the punch into the hole in the wood from the fuselage
> side
> and tapped it with a hammer. Removed the bracket and viola a centerpunch
>
> mark EXACTLY in the middle of the hole. I drilled it, pinned it to the
> fuselage with a bolt and did the rest the same way. After doing all the
>
> holes that way they all lined up perfectly. It worked so good I drew one
> up
> to do the 5/16" motor mount to bracket bolt holes. I took it to my
> machinist
> friend this morning and asked him to make me one out of a 5/16" grade 8
> bolt. He said why make one when I have a whole set of them!!!! They are
> called TRANSFER PUNCHES. they look like a steel rod with a tiny little
> point
> on one end and his set has about 15 different sizes in it. I was
> shocked...I
> thought it was my great idea. I know I can't be the only one who has
> fought
> with this type of alignment problem. I had no idea that there was a tool
> out
> there designed specifically for this type of job. Like I said, If I'm
> the
> only one that didn't know about this simple but amazingly acurate tool I
>
> apologize, but they work great for any steel piece that you have to redo
> and
> I have a pile of them. Hope it helps someone out there......
>
>
> Ed Grentzer
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: New Subscriber, Wing Rib Jig Questions. |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
Hi Dave,
You really don't have to be that precise. Regardless
of what some others have said, I used the full sized
pattern for my ribs and they came out fine. Even if
they aren't perfectly made to the plans, they are
still good airfoils and a little variance from the
plans won't be that noticeable (the variance is
minute). I did build all my ribs on the same jig to
make them all about the same. I double laminated the
pattern before I cut it out and then cut it out with a
sharp Exacta Knife (scalples also work well too). I
then taped the cut-out onto a flat piece of of 3/4"
plywood that was reinforced with 2 X 4's to keep it
rigid and straight (of course using a straight line as
a reference). I then laid out my holding blocks along
the edges of the pattern and used wood screws to
fasten them down. I used plenty of holding blocks to
hold the capstrips tightly. I then melted some
parifin wax in a coffee can and painted the jig with a
coating of wax to prevent the glue from sticking to
the wood. This worked great and I only had to do some
touch up once in awhile.
I cut round pieces of 1/16" birch plywood using
Key-hole round saw blades you can buy at almost all
hardware stores and mounted the hole saw blades in my
drill press. Once the round pieces were cut, I then
halved them for some of the gussetts and quartered
them for the gussetts around the spar vertical pieces.
I used small aircraft nails to hold the gussetts in
place while the glue dried. If you will contact me
off line, I will be happy to send you some pics of my
jig and of the ribs. I used one verticle on each side
of the spar. I made a 3/4" by 4 3/4" false spar to
position the verticles accurately.
Hope this helps and best wishes.
Doc (H)
--- Dave Case <dav3xor@gmail.com> wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Dave Case
> <dav3xor@gmail.com>
>
> I am trying to get started with building a Pietenpol
> by putting
> together a wing rib jig. Perhaps I've been thinking
> too hard (very
> likely), and I have my mind all in a twist over how
> to lay out the
> shape of the wing on my board. I've seen all the
> warnings about not
> using the full size rib plan because of
> stretching/shrinkage from the
> printer...
>
> So, I'm thinking, the rib is 5 feet long, so I'll
> need a 5 foot long
> line drawn on my board, and all the good straight
> edges I know about
> are 4 feet long (or a bit longer if you use a meter
> stick). So, will
> it be precise enough just to move the straightedge
> along another foot,
> and very carefully line it up with the previous
> mark, then finish the
> job, or is there a better way? I guess I could lay
> down a chalk line,
> but that seems very... non precise? I never took
> drafting in High
> School, can you tell?
>
> Any tips on drawing lines at 90 degrees to this
> original line? Other
> than using a square, and then checking diagonals
> with other lines for
> equal distance? Should I be this anal retentive?
> Especially when the
> original wing was designed on the drawing room
> floor?
>
> I suppose that most of the small errors above
> probably go away once
> you drive in the nails and run the spline.
>
> I also have been looking at the plans themselves
> which poses another
> question. The original plan for the ribs does not
> show any vertical
> pieces to attach to the spars, the spar only
> attaches to the ribs at
> the top and bottom. The full size rib plan has
> vertical pieces on the
> insides of the spars, and then some websites have
> vertical pieces on
> both sides of the spar, like the ribs from most of
> the other designs
> I've looked at. I'm inclined to go with the version
> from the full
> size plan, unless there's a good reason to do a
> vertical piece on each
> side of the spar?
>
> Oh!, another question, I saw a message a while back
> about die cutting
> gussets, but I can't find it. Were can you get a
> die like this, and
> any idea how much it would cost?
>
> I saw Jack Phillips' plane at Oshkosh; simply
> gorgeous.
>
> Sorry about all the questions, I've been saving them
> up.. :)
>
> --
> David Case
> Dav3xor@gmail.com
> www.builddiary.net
>
>
>
>
>
> browse
> Subscriptions page,
> FAQ,
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
__________________________________
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: distance between wheels |
Hi Gary,noticed that you hail from the University of Manitoba and was just curious
as to whether Jill Oakes suggested the Pietenpol to you.I had the pleasure
of meeting her at Oshkosh 03 and she mentioned that she was thinking of building
a Pietenpol next.I saw her Acro 2 at Oshkosh this year but never got the chance
to say hi again,so if you see her say hi from the guy that took a lot of
pictures of her Acro in 03.Good luck on your Piet.
Kind regards,Mike
Do not archive
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES |
What is the thickest sheet you can bend with yours? Have yet to find one
that can do .090.
On 9/19/05, Dennis Engelkenjohn <wingding@usmo.com> wrote:
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dennis Engelkenjohn" <
> wingding@usmo.com>
>
> Another Harbor Freight tool which everyone should have and is cheap and
> worth its weight in gold is a "vise brake". It comes in several sizes from
> 4" up to 8" and has magnetic jaws which stick to the inside of the jaws of
> your vise (not beer drinking or women chasing type of vice). Any way, it
> uses the vise to make a perfect 90' bend or less or slightly more in light
> guage sheet metal. Only drawback is it is only as wide as your vise.
> Dennis
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 12:25 PM
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
>
>
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
> >
> > Just shows what a good idea it really was. Just because someone else
> > thought of it first doesn't diminish in the least your cleverness in
> > coming up with this method.
> >
> > Jack Phillips, PE
> > Sr. Manager, Disposables Product Development
> > Clinical Technologies and Services
> > Cardinal Health
> > Creedmoor, NC
> > (919) 528-5212
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> > [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed G.
> > Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 3:18 PM
> > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
> >
> > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ed G." <flyboy_120@hotmail.com>
> >
> >
> > I have been around tools all my life but just recently learned of a tool
> >
> > that I think needs to be shared with the group. If everyone already
> > knows
> > about them I appologize for wasting your time.
> > I built my lower motor mount brackets ( the ones that bolt to the
> > fuselage) several years ago out of 14 gauge steel as called for in the
> > plans
> > but extended the tabs 1/4" to make room for firewall insulation etc.
> > Drilled
> > them and the fuselage and bolted them on. The long thin extended tabs
> > bothered me because they looked too flimsy do do the job of supporting
> > my
> > extended motor mount. So I made a new set of brakets out of 13 gauge
> > 4130.
> > the problem I had now was, I have new blanks that need to be drilled
> > PRECISELY to line up with the holes which were already drilled in the
> > wood
> > fuselage. I scratched my head for quite a while because I figured if I
> > ran
> > a drill bit through the wood to mark the steel the flutes of the drill
> > bit
> > would wollow out the holes in the wood. A center punch wouldnt fit in
> > the
> > small hole and even if it did it wouldn't necessarily be exactly in the
> >
> > center. So I made a centerpunch out of 3/16" hardened steel rod ( an old
> > #1
> > phillips screwdriver) carefully clamped one half of the new bracket to
> > the
> > fuselage. slid the punch into the hole in the wood from the fuselage
> > side
> > and tapped it with a hammer. Removed the bracket and viola a centerpunch
> >
> > mark EXACTLY in the middle of the hole. I drilled it, pinned it to the
> > fuselage with a bolt and did the rest the same way. After doing all the
> >
> > holes that way they all lined up perfectly. It worked so good I drew one
> > up
> > to do the 5/16" motor mount to bracket bolt holes. I took it to my
> > machinist
> > friend this morning and asked him to make me one out of a 5/16" grade 8
> > bolt. He said why make one when I have a whole set of them!!!! They are
> > called TRANSFER PUNCHES. they look like a steel rod with a tiny little
> > point
> > on one end and his set has about 15 different sizes in it. I was
> > shocked...I
> > thought it was my great idea. I know I can't be the only one who has
> > fought
> > with this type of alignment problem. I had no idea that there was a tool
> > out
> > there designed specifically for this type of job. Like I said, If I'm
> > the
> > only one that didn't know about this simple but amazingly acurate tool I
> >
> > apologize, but they work great for any steel piece that you have to redo
> > and
> > I have a pile of them. Hope it helps someone out there......
> >
> >
> > Ed Grentzer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
--
Rick Holland
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES |
I wish I could tell you that, I don't have the box anymore. I haven't tried to
bend anything that thick because of the sharp point of the anvil. I guess I could
grind it down though. It would seem if you had a strong 6" vise you could
bend .090. I used it for the thinner fittings though.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
What is the thickest sheet you can bend with yours? Have yet to find one that
can do .090.
On 9/19/05, Dennis Engelkenjohn < wingding@usmo.com> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dennis Engelkenjohn" < wingding@usmo.com>
Another Harbor Freight tool which everyone should have and is cheap and
worth its weight in gold is a "vise brake". It comes in several sizes from
4" up to 8" and has magnetic jaws which stick to the inside of the jaws of
your vise (not beer drinking or women chasing type of vice). Any way, it
uses the vise to make a perfect 90' bend or less or slightly more in light
guage sheet metal. Only drawback is it is only as wide as your vise.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com >
To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 12:25 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> Just shows what a good idea it really was. Just because someone else
> thought of it first doesn't diminish in the least your cleverness in
> coming up with this method.
>
> Jack Phillips, PE
> Sr. Manager, Disposables Product Development
> Clinical Technologies and Services
> Cardinal Health
> Creedmoor, NC
> (919) 528-5212
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed G.
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 3:18 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ed G." <flyboy_120@hotmail.com>
>
>
> I have been around tools all my life but just recently learned of a tool
>
> that I think needs to be shared with the group. If everyone already
> knows
> about them I appologize for wasting your time.
> I built my lower motor mount brackets ( the ones that bolt to the
> fuselage) several years ago out of 14 gauge steel as called for in the
> plans
> but extended the tabs 1/4" to make room for firewall insulation etc.
> Drilled
> them and the fuselage and bolted them on. The long thin extended tabs
> bothered me because they looked too flimsy do do the job of supporting
> my
> extended motor mount. So I made a new set of brakets out of 13 gauge
> 4130.
> the problem I had now was, I have new blanks that need to be drilled
> PRECISELY to line up with the holes which were already drilled in the
> wood
> fuselage. I scratched my head for quite a while because I figured if I
> ran
> a drill bit through the wood to mark the steel the flutes of the drill
> bit
> would wollow out the holes in the wood. A center punch wouldnt fit in
> the
> small hole and even if it did it wouldn't necessarily be exactly in the
>
> center. So I made a centerpunch out of 3/16" hardened steel rod ( an old
> #1
> phillips screwdriver) carefully clamped one half of the new bracket to
> the
> fuselage. slid the punch into the hole in the wood from the fuselage
> side
> and tapped it with a hammer. Removed the bracket and viola a centerpunch
>
> mark EXACTLY in the middle of the hole. I drilled it, pinned it to the
> fuselage with a bolt and did the rest the same way. After doing all the
>
> holes that way they all lined up perfectly. It worked so good I drew one
> up
> to do the 5/16" motor mount to bracket bolt holes. I took it to my
> machinist
> friend this morning and asked him to make me one out of a 5/16" grade 8
> bolt. He said why make one when I have a whole set of them!!!! They are
> called TRANSFER PUNCHES. they look like a steel rod with a tiny little
> point
> on one end and his set has about 15 different sizes in it. I was
> shocked...I
> thought it was my great idea. I know I can't be the only one who has
> fought
> with this type of alignment problem. I had no idea that there was a tool
> out
> there designed specifically for this type of job. Like I said, If I'm
> the
> only one that didn't know about this simple but amazingly acurate tool I
>
> apologize, but they work great for any steel piece that you have to redo
> and
> I have a pile of them. Hope it helps someone out there......
>
>
> Ed Grentzer
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
&g
--
Rick Holland
Message 14
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|
| Subject: | Re: DF weight, latex paint... |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
I have been following this discussion with interest. Does anyone know of a
plane being covered with Stitts process through silver and then latex as the
final coat? Are they compatible?
I bought my latex recently and thought I was going to have to get "tough"
with the sales person because she first started out by telling me that I
should go to an automotive paint supply store because the latex was just
going to peel off. After reading the label about how tenacious their
premium paint was and I smiled and told her I would take that chance, she
then told me the company would not allow her to sell it to me to use on an
airplane. I smiled and showed her the color I wanted. She then said she
didn't think they had any of the correct base. I smiled and asked if she
would mind looking as I only needed one gallon. She finally gave in and
mixed the color. Whew...
Ted
Trying to finish a Piet while dodging hurricanes
Message 15
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|
| Subject: | Re: TRANSFER PUNCHES |
I did some .090 but first ground down the point of the anvil (a LOT!). Can't see
it in the attached (small) picture but that's actually a pretty dull point.
I've had the same good experience with this tool as others have mentioned here.
Really a neat addition to your workshop. Get the largest vise you can afford
and a vise break to match.
Jim Markle
Plano, TX
----- Original Message -----
From: Dennis Engelkenjohn
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 11:13 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
I wish I could tell you that, I don't have the box anymore. I haven't tried to
bend anything that thick because of the sharp point of the anvil. I guess I
could grind it down though. It would seem if you had a strong 6" vise you could
bend .090. I used it for the thinner fittings though.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 5:42 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
What is the thickest sheet you can bend with yours? Have yet to find one that
can do .090.
On 9/19/05, Dennis Engelkenjohn < wingding@usmo.com> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dennis Engelkenjohn" < wingding@usmo.com>
Another Harbor Freight tool which everyone should have and is cheap and
worth its weight in gold is a "vise brake". It comes in several sizes from
4" up to 8" and has magnetic jaws which stick to the inside of the jaws of
your vise (not beer drinking or women chasing type of vice). Any way, it
uses the vise to make a perfect 90' bend or less or slightly more in light
guage sheet metal. Only drawback is it is only as wide as your vise.
Dennis
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com >
To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 12:25 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack"
<Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
>
> Just shows what a good idea it really was. Just because someone else
> thought of it first doesn't diminish in the least your cleverness in
> coming up with this method.
>
> Jack Phillips, PE
> Sr. Manager, Disposables Product Development
> Clinical Technologies and Services
> Cardinal Health
> Creedmoor, NC
> (919) 528-5212
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ed G.
> Sent: Monday, September 19, 2005 3:18 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: TRANSFER PUNCHES
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ed G." <flyboy_120@hotmail.com>
>
>
> I have been around tools all my life but just recently learned of a tool
>
> that I think needs to be shared with the group. If everyone already
> knows
> about them I appologize for wasting your time.
> I built my lower motor mount brackets ( the ones that bolt to the
> fuselage) several years ago out of 14 gauge steel as called for in the
> plans
> but extended the tabs 1/4" to make room for firewall insulation etc.
> Drilled
> them and the fuselage and bolted them on. The long thin extended tabs
> bothered me because they looked too flimsy do do the job of supporting
> my
> extended motor mount. So I made a new set of brakets out of 13 gauge
> 4130.
> the problem I had now was, I have new blanks that need to be drilled
> PRECISELY to line up with the holes which were already drilled in the
> wood
> fuselage. I scratched my head for quite a while because I figured if I
> ran
> a drill bit through the wood to mark the steel the flutes of the drill
> bit
> would wollow out the holes in the wood. A center punch wouldnt fit in
> the
> small hole and even if it did it wouldn't necessarily be exactly in the
>
> center. So I made a centerpunch out of 3/16" hardened steel rod ( an old
> #1
> phillips screwdriver) carefully clamped one half of the new bracket to
> the
> fuselage. slid the punch into the hole in the wood from the fuselage
> side
> and tapped it with a hammer. Removed the bracket and viola a centerpunch
>
> mark EXACTLY in the middle of the hole. I drilled it, pinned it to the
> fuselage with a bolt and did the rest the same way. After doing all the
>
> holes that way they all lined up perfectly. It worked so good I drew one
> up
> to do the 5/16" motor mount to bracket bolt holes. I took it to my
> machinist
> friend this morning and asked him to make me one out of a 5/16" grade 8
> bolt. He said why make one when I have a whole set of them!!!! They are
> called TRANSFER PUNCHES. they look like a steel rod with a tiny little
> point
> on one end and his set has about 15 different sizes in it. I was
> shocked...I
> thought it was my great idea. I know I can't be the only one who has
> fought
> with this type of alignment problem. I had no idea that there was a tool
> out
> there designed specifically for this type of job. Like I said, If I'm
> the
> only one that didn't know about this simple but amazingly acurate tool
I
>
> apologize, but they work great for any steel piece that you have to redo
> and
> I have a pile of them. Hope it helps someone out there......
>
>
> Ed Grentzer
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
&g
--
Rick Holland
Message 16
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|
| Subject: | Re: DF weight, latex paint... |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Doyle Combs" <doylecombskeith@earthlink.net>
Ted, I don't feel adequate to weigh in most of the discussions, but I do
have a modified Piet that was done in silver and I painted on it with latex
paint. I have had one place that chipped off, but I also covered the latex
with a polytheurene coating to keep it from showing every finger and hand
print. The latex is too soft for me but the clear coating seems to really
solidify the paint. It looks ok and seems to wear of over the silver. I did
have to clean the silver thoroughly before applying the paint.
Doyle Combs
> >
>
>
>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: DF weight, latex paint... |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
I put a two part epoxy latex available at marine supply stores on my Osprey.
Spent about 6 months stripping this off after it peeled in just one Alaskan
winter, sitting outside. Personally I'd recommend sticking with solvent
based paints on Stits. The Stits system is based on PVC, ergo the reason
it's hyped as being flame retardant. I don't think you'll get any type of
physical bond with the Stits because it's slick, and without solvent you
won't get any type of chemical bond. But to each their own pain and
experimentation.
Gordon Bowen -Homer Alaska
Cozy IV N64CY
Osprey II N64SY
Pietenpol N-1033B
" There are no passengers on spaceship Earth, we are all crew", McLuhan
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ted Brousseau" <nfn00979@naples.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: DF weight, latex paint...
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ted Brousseau"
<nfn00979@naples.net>
>
> I have been following this discussion with interest. Does anyone know of
a
> plane being covered with Stitts process through silver and then latex as
the
> final coat? Are they compatible?
>
> I bought my latex recently and thought I was going to have to get "tough"
> with the sales person because she first started out by telling me that I
> should go to an automotive paint supply store because the latex was just
> going to peel off. After reading the label about how tenacious their
> premium paint was and I smiled and told her I would take that chance, she
> then told me the company would not allow her to sell it to me to use on an
> airplane. I smiled and showed her the color I wanted. She then said she
> didn't think they had any of the correct base. I smiled and asked if she
> would mind looking as I only needed one gallon. She finally gave in and
> mixed the color. Whew...
>
> Ted
> Trying to finish a Piet while dodging hurricanes
>
>
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