Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Wed 10/19/05


Total Messages Posted: 13



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 05:47 AM - Re: alternative glues (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
     2. 06:18 AM - Re: alternative glues (Rick Holland)
     3. 08:26 AM - Re: Continental Overhaul (Barry Davis)
     4. 08:37 AM - Re: alternative glues (Galen Hutcheson)
     5. 09:23 AM - Re: Re: alternative glues ()
     6. 09:39 AM - Re: alternative glues (John Hofmann)
     7. 10:14 AM - Re: alternative glues (harvey rule)
     8. 11:05 AM - Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/18/05 (Tim Willis)
     9. 11:05 AM - Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/18/05 (Tim Willis)
    10. 03:44 PM - Re: Continental Overhaul (Georgia Peach)
    11. 04:31 PM - Creve coure airport  (HOEVELMANN)
    12. 05:19 PM - Vi Kapler (Textor, Jack)
    13. 05:26 PM - Re: alternative glues (Alan Lyscars)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 05:47:04 AM PST US
    From: "MICHAEL SILVIUS" <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net>
    Subject: Re: alternative glues
    Folks: FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine applications where admittedly it has been exposed to harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be less than consistent in its performance. I have found that it does break down particularly if gluing dissimilar woods due to their different expansion rates. I have also found that the natural oils in Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to applying the glue as you get better penetration and quicker drying. That said and given the cost and amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for dollar go with the proven T-88. just my 2 pennies worth. Kind regards: Michael Silvius in Scarborough, Maine ----- Original Message ----- From: DONALD COOLEY To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 10:51 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues I read with interest the questions and responses about using "Elmer's Glue", the ultimate kind, with which I am not familiar. A friend of mine, who has built several aircraft, and parts of several more, used Titebond II for the wing ribs on his Wagabond, which has been flying for somewhere around twenty-five years with no problems. There are probably several glues which used properly will give good, safe results. It seems to me that testing is the solution to questions any builder may have about the suitability of any adhesive. Keep the sawdust flyin"! Don Cooley


    Message 2


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    Time: 06:18:56 AM PST US
    From: Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
    Subject: Re: alternative glues
    I built my mock fuselage with Excel One which is the same type of stuff (like Gorrilla Glue) a little over a year ago. It spent part of last winter outside and several of the glue joints have not held up so well, had to reglue several. Would not recommend it for a real fuselage although I know that it has been used successfully to build some small single seat wood airplanes. RH On 10/19/05, MICHAEL SILVIUS <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > > Folks: > > FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine applications where > admittedly it has been exposed to harshest of conditions. I have found that > it can be less than consistent in its performance. I have found that it does > break down particularly if gluing dissimilar woods due to their different > expansion rates. I have also found that the natural oils in Doug Fir, Cherry > and Cedar tend to conflict with proper adhesion. It does work better if you > moisten the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to applying the > glue as you get better penetration and quicker drying. That said and given > the cost and amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for dollar go > with the proven T-88. > just my 2 pennies worth. > Kind regards: > Michael Silvius > in Scarborough, Maine > > ----- Original Message ----- > *From:* DONALD COOLEY <adonjr@sbcglobal.net> > *To:* pietenpol-list@matronics.com > *Sent:* Tuesday, October 18, 2005 10:51 PM > *Subject:* Pietenpol-List: alternative glues > > > I read with interest the questions and responses about using "Elmer's > Glue", the ultimate kind, with which I am not familiar. A friend of mine, > who has built several aircraft, and parts of several more, used Titebond II > for the wing ribs on his Wagabond, which has been flying for somewhere > around twenty-five years with no problems. There are probably several glues > which used properly will give good, safe results. It seems to me that > testing is the solution to questions any builder may have about the > suitability of any adhesive. Keep the sawdust flyin"! Don Cooley > > -- Rick Holland


    Message 3


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    Time: 08:26:42 AM PST US
    From: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Re: Continental Overhaul
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com> Just curious, what part of Georgia is this peach from? Barry Davis Big Piet Builders ----- Original Message ----- From: "Georgia Peach" <jetpilot@clearwire.net> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Georgia Peach" > <jetpilot@clearwire.net> > > The "engine list" is on the Matronics main website. You'll need to > subscribe, just like you have done for the Pietnpol list. > > One of the subscribers sent me an Adobe PDF file (a Continental Teledyne > Service Bulletin, dated 2-2005) showing nearly all the torque limits for > every Continental engine made. Are you rebuilding a A-series Continental? > If so, you'll find some missing information in the original Continental > Maintenance & Overhaul Manual. > > Sterling Brooks > Knot-2-Shabby Airport > 5TA6, San Antonio Sectional > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Boatright" <jboatri@emory.edu> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 8:47 PM > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul > > >> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu> >> >> Where is this engine list? >> >>>Problem solved. Thanks to John Heath on the Engine-List. >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:37:48 AM PST US
    From: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: alternative glues
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will not activate and will be useless. You use mild clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The most common failure with this glue is not following the directions to the letter and the glue does not activate within the joint. I learned this the hard way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue expands. This expansion forces the glue into the wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood, so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases. I think that any builder should test this glue if he is going to use it on any structural member. In my opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the strongest for joints that will have the greatest stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others may have differing opinions, and that is good. By discusing this topic, we are combining our research experience. Doc (H) --- MICHAEL SILVIUS <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net> wrote: > Folks: > FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine > applications where admittedly it has been exposed to > harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be > less than consistent in its performance. I have > found that it does break down particularly if gluing > dissimilar woods due to their different expansion > rates. I have also found that the natural oils in > Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with > proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten > the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to > applying the glue as you get better penetration and > quicker drying. That said and given the cost and > amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for > dollar go with the proven T-88. > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/


    Message 5


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    Time: 09:23:50 AM PST US
    From: <harvey.rule@sympatico.ca>
    Subject: Re: alternative glues
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: <harvey.rule@sympatico.ca> > We had aplane during the second world war that was called the Moscitoe(not sure of spelling) and it was a wood plane all glued together.The first ones broke up in mid air but they fixed that problem later with glue that worked.I have never tried to find out what that glue was but I'm sure with the right guy or gal at the key board it may be found out.I figure that has to be the best glues since this plane used two engines and was one of the fastest planes around for it's time.Good luck to those who try and let us know when you find out,have fun! > From: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> > Date: 2005/10/19 Wed AM 11:37:20 EST > To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> > > The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla > Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft > woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet > one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the > other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will > not activate and will be useless. You use mild > clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out > from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened > cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The > most common failure with this glue is not following > the directions to the letter and the glue does not > activate within the joint. I learned this the hard > way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely > than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood > penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It > takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If > two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating > surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It > only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue > expands. This expansion forces the glue into the > wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood, > so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases. > I think that any builder should test this glue if he > is going to use it on any structural member. In my > opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the > strongest for joints that will have the greatest > stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear > members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others > may have differing opinions, and that is good. By > discusing this topic, we are combining our research > experience. > > Doc (H) > > --- MICHAEL SILVIUS <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net> > wrote: > > > Folks: > > FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine > > applications where admittedly it has been exposed to > > harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be > > less than consistent in its performance. I have > > found that it does break down particularly if gluing > > dissimilar woods due to their different expansion > > rates. I have also found that the natural oils in > > Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with > > proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten > > the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to > > applying the glue as you get better penetration and > > quicker drying. That said and given the cost and > > amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for > > dollar go with the proven T-88. > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > __________________________________ > Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. > http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:39:26 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: alternative glues
    From: John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com>
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com> The Mosquito used Areolite (urea-formaldehyde). Alfred Scott did a nice article on it here: http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Glues/Aerolite/Aerolite.html -john- > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: <harvey.rule@sympatico.ca> > > >> We had aplane during the second world war that was called the Moscitoe(not >> sure of spelling) and it was a wood plane all glued together.The first ones >> broke up in mid air but they fixed that problem later with glue that worked.I >> have never tried to find out what that glue was but I'm sure with the right >> guy or gal at the key board it may be found out.I figure that has to be the >> best glues since this plane used two engines and was one of the fastest >> planes around for it's time.Good luck to those who try and let us know when >> you find out,have fun! >> From: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> >> Date: 2005/10/19 Wed AM 11:37:20 EST >> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues >> >> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> >> >> The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla >> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft >> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet >> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the >> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will >> not activate and will be useless. You use mild >> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out >> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened >> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The >> most common failure with this glue is not following >> the directions to the letter and the glue does not >> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard >> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely >> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood >> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It >> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If >> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating >> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It >> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue >> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the >> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood, >> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases. >> I think that any builder should test this glue if he >> is going to use it on any structural member. In my >> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the >> strongest for joints that will have the greatest >> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear >> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others >> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By >> discusing this topic, we are combining our research >> experience. >> >> Doc (H) >> >> --- MICHAEL SILVIUS <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net> >> wrote: >> >>> Folks: >>> FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine >>> applications where admittedly it has been exposed to >>> harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be >>> less than consistent in its performance. I have >>> found that it does break down particularly if gluing >>> dissimilar woods due to their different expansion >>> rates. I have also found that the natural oils in >>> Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with >>> proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten >>> the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to >>> applying the glue as you get better penetration and >>> quicker drying. That said and given the cost and >>> amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for >>> dollar go with the proven T-88. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> __________________________________ >> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. >> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:14:26 AM PST US
    From: "harvey rule" <harvey.rule@bell.ca>
    Subject: Re: alternative glues
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "harvey rule" <harvey.rule@bell.ca> Isn't that the stuff that everybody was going nuts over a while back saying that it was dangerous to use?If I'm not mistaken it was banned from use in homes as an insulator. John Hofmann wrote: > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com> > > The Mosquito used Areolite (urea-formaldehyde). Alfred Scott did a nice > article on it here: > > http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Glues/Aerolite/Aerolite.html > > -john- > > > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: <harvey.rule@sympatico.ca> > > > > > >> We had aplane during the second world war that was called the Moscitoe(not > >> sure of spelling) and it was a wood plane all glued together.The first ones > >> broke up in mid air but they fixed that problem later with glue that worked.I > >> have never tried to find out what that glue was but I'm sure with the right > >> guy or gal at the key board it may be found out.I figure that has to be the > >> best glues since this plane used two engines and was one of the fastest > >> planes around for it's time.Good luck to those who try and let us know when > >> you find out,have fun! > >> From: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> > >> Date: 2005/10/19 Wed AM 11:37:20 EST > >> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com > >> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues > >> > >> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Galen Hutcheson <wacopitts@yahoo.com> > >> > >> The polyurethane glue (Elmer's Ultimate Glue, Gorilla > >> Glue) must have water to activate the glue. On soft > >> woods like spruce and Douglas Fir you only need to wet > >> one side to be glued and you spread a thin film on the > >> other mating side. If you do use water, the glue will > >> not activate and will be useless. You use mild > >> clamping for at least 4 hours. The glue will foam out > >> from the joint which can be wiped with a dampened > >> cloth or can be cut off later with a sharp knife. The > >> most common failure with this glue is not following > >> the directions to the letter and the glue does not > >> activate within the joint. I learned this the hard > >> way. The pieces to be glued need to fit more closely > >> than is needed for the epoxy glues. I found good wood > >> penetration when the glue was applied correctly. It > >> takes a little practice to get a good glue joint. If > >> two hardwoods (ie. ash) are glued, both mating > >> surfaces must be wet before applying the glue. It > >> only takes a very thin film of the glue as the glue > >> expands. This expansion forces the glue into the > >> wood. I haven't tried this glue on all types of wood, > >> so I cannot comment on it's usefulness in these cases. > >> I think that any builder should test this glue if he > >> is going to use it on any structural member. In my > >> opinion, I still feel that the epoxy glues are the > >> strongest for joints that will have the greatest > >> stresses. This would be the fuselage and landing gear > >> members and perhaps the tail feather joints. Others > >> may have differing opinions, and that is good. By > >> discusing this topic, we are combining our research > >> experience. > >> > >> Doc (H) > >> > >> --- MICHAEL SILVIUS <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net> > >> wrote: > >> > >>> Folks: > >>> FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine > >>> applications where admittedly it has been exposed to > >>> harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be > >>> less than consistent in its performance. I have > >>> found that it does break down particularly if gluing > >>> dissimilar woods due to their different expansion > >>> rates. I have also found that the natural oils in > >>> Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with > >>> proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten > >>> the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to > >>> applying the glue as you get better penetration and > >>> quicker drying. That said and given the cost and > >>> amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for > >>> dollar go with the proven T-88. > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >>> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> __________________________________ > >> Access over 1 million songs. Try it free. > >> http://music.yahoo.com/unlimited/ > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > >> > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:05:54 AM PST US
    From: Tim Willis <strategyguy536@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/18/05
    Pietenpol-List Digest List <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com> You are right about Weise Field being closed for a decade or so. It was across from the Chrysler plant, and just east of I-64. Its only runway ran east-west. It was exciting on hot days, with trees, power lines and traffic very close to the runway at its west end and a large (120' tall?) hill full of large trees fairly close to its east side. It seemed all too short too often. ---------------------------------


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:05:55 AM PST US
    From: Tim Willis <strategyguy536@yahoo.com>
    Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 8 Msgs - 10/18/05
    Pietenpol-List Digest List <pietenpol-list-digest@matronics.com> You are right about Weise Field being closed for a decade or so. It was across from the Chrysler plant, and just east of I-64. Its only runway ran east-west. It was exciting on hot days, with trees, power lines and traffic very close to the runway at its west end and a large (120' tall?) hill full of large trees fairly close to its east side. It seemed all too short too often. ---------------------------------


    Message 10


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    Time: 03:44:16 PM PST US
    From: "Georgia Peach" <jetpilot@clearwire.net>
    Subject: Re: Continental Overhaul
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Georgia Peach" <jetpilot@clearwire.net> Ringgold, Georgia ----- Original Message ----- From: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com> > > Just curious, what part of Georgia is this peach from? > Barry Davis > Big Piet Builders > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Georgia Peach" <jetpilot@clearwire.net> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> > Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 11:24 PM > Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul > > >> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Georgia Peach" >> <jetpilot@clearwire.net> >> >> The "engine list" is on the Matronics main website. You'll need to >> subscribe, just like you have done for the Pietnpol list. >> >> One of the subscribers sent me an Adobe PDF file (a Continental Teledyne >> Service Bulletin, dated 2-2005) showing nearly all the torque limits for >> every Continental engine made. Are you rebuilding a A-series Continental? >> If so, you'll find some missing information in the original Continental >> Maintenance & Overhaul Manual. >> >> Sterling Brooks >> Knot-2-Shabby Airport >> 5TA6, San Antonio Sectional >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Jeff Boatright" <jboatri@emory.edu> >> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com> >> Sent: Saturday, October 15, 2005 8:47 PM >> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental Overhaul >> >> >>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu> >>> >>> Where is this engine list? >>> >>>>Problem solved. Thanks to John Heath on the Engine-List. >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 04:31:21 PM PST US
    From: HOEVELMANN <hoevelmann@sbcglobal.net>
    Subject: Creve coure airport
    To those who are wondering about Creve coure airport, it is a very nice airport with an awesome museum. I live in St. Louis and have been there many times. There is a model A Piet there also. If you have any questions about Creve Coure Don't hesitate to E-mail me for more info.


    Message 12


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    Time: 05:19:55 PM PST US
    Subject: Vi Kapler
    From: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Textor, Jack" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com> Hi all, I have been trying to reach Vi at 507-285-1645 for a couple weeks to buy some hinges. Is he ok? I've let messages with no response. Thanks, Jack Textor


    Message 13


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    Time: 05:26:29 PM PST US
    From: "Alan Lyscars" <alyscars@maine.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: alternative glues
    Here here, Mike! Alan ----- Original Message ----- From: MICHAEL SILVIUS To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, October 19, 2005 8:46 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues Folks: FWIW. I have used polyurethane glues on marine applications where admittedly it has been exposed to harshest of conditions. I have found that it can be less than consistent in its performance. I have found that it does break down particularly if gluing dissimilar woods due to their different expansion rates. I have also found that the natural oils in Doug Fir, Cherry and Cedar tend to conflict with proper adhesion. It does work better if you moisten the surfaces to be glued with some water previous to applying the glue as you get better penetration and quicker drying. That said and given the cost and amount of adhesive to be used I figure dollar for dollar go with the proven T-88. just my 2 pennies worth. Kind regards: Michael Silvius in Scarborough, Maine ----- Original Message ----- From: DONALD COOLEY To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2005 10:51 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: alternative glues I read with interest the questions and responses about using "Elmer's Glue", the ultimate kind, with which I am not familiar. A friend of mine, who has built several aircraft, and parts of several more, used Titebond II for the wing ribs on his Wagabond, which has been flying for somewhere around twenty-five years with no problems. There are probably several glues which used properly will give good, safe results. It seems to me that testing is the solution to questions any builder may have about the suitability of any adhesive. Keep the sawdust flyin"! Don Cooley




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