Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:38 AM - oil recommendation (Oscar Zuniga)
2. 05:51 AM - Re: oil recommendation (Phillips, Jack)
3. 06:02 AM - idle speed (Michael D Cuy)
4. 08:02 AM - Re: oil recommendation (Isablcorky@aol.com)
5. 08:18 AM - Re: cold weather gear (gbowen@ptialaska.net)
6. 09:43 AM - Re: fuselage+tail weight? (Kirk Huizenga)
7. 09:54 AM - Re: A65 idle RPM (Irwin Fust)
8. 09:56 AM - Re: A65 idle RPM (Dick Navratil)
9. 12:32 PM - Gusset dimensions (Hodgson, Mark O)
10. 02:34 PM - Re: A65 idle RPM (walt evans)
11. 03:23 PM - Discs for brakes (John Egan)
12. 05:12 PM - Warm wear (Isablcorky@AOL.COM)
13. 06:19 PM - Re: A65 idle RPM (Harvey Rule)
14. 06:42 PM - Re: Discs for brakes (Dick Navratil)
15. 07:28 PM - Wing Build Question (Glenn Thomas)
16. 07:57 PM - Re: Wing Build Question (Dick Navratil)
17. 07:57 PM - Re: Discs for brakes (Kirk Huizenga)
18. 08:37 PM - Re: A65 idle RPM (Gary Gower)
19. 08:40 PM - Re: A65 idle RPM (Graham Hansen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | oil recommendation |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Thanks to all y'all who replied on the oil recommendation... it was
unanimous that the Aeroshell W100, SAE50 ashless dispersant is what is
recommended. So let it be written... so let it be done! And to those who
asked, this is NOT for break-in duty. Corky had already broken in the
engine and flown off the required hours prior to selling me the airplane.
I'm repairing/reworking several things and the engine will need to be
refilled.
One thing that is being repaired/reworked is the oil sump, which took a hit
from the carb getting pushed back into it. Which is the reason for the
flurry of posts from me over the past two weeks, relating to engine things.
I hope to once again be hearing the purr of the stoic Continental within two
weeks, Lord willing.
So... idle RPM recommendations-? What I worry about are things like this,
from Harry Fenton: "Wood props with an idle set below 450 rpm will cause
this problem [broken impulse coupling or spings] as the impulse coupling
will click continuously until the spring fails."
TACOs forever!
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | oil recommendation |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
Oscar,
Mine will idle at 450 RPM, but like Harry Fenton says, the impulses
rattle and click at that speed. I set mine to idle at about 600 RPM
when warm. When the engine first starts, I let it idle a little faster
- maybe 700 RPM.
One thing I found with mine at first was that I was getting a series of
small backfires at idle. Turned out one of my intake elbows was not
tigthened down to the cylinder head, causing a small vacuum leak, which
effectively leaned the mixture going into that cylinder. If you hear
some small backfires at idle, check all your intake elbows.
Good Luck! It'll be good to have NX41CC back amongst the flying.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP "Icarus Plummet"
-----Original Message-----
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
Thanks to all y'all who replied on the oil recommendation... it was
unanimous that the Aeroshell W100, SAE50 ashless dispersant is what is
recommended. So let it be written... so let it be done! And to those
who
asked, this is NOT for break-in duty. Corky had already broken in the
engine and flown off the required hours prior to selling me the
airplane.
I'm repairing/reworking several things and the engine will need to be
refilled.
One thing that is being repaired/reworked is the oil sump, which took a
hit
from the carb getting pushed back into it. Which is the reason for the
flurry of posts from me over the past two weeks, relating to engine
things.
I hope to once again be hearing the purr of the stoic Continental within
two
weeks, Lord willing.
So... idle RPM recommendations-? What I worry about are things like
this,
from Harry Fenton: "Wood props with an idle set below 450 rpm will cause
this problem [broken impulse coupling or spings] as the impulse coupling
will click continuously until the spring fails."
TACOs forever!
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 3
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Oscar-- ditto Jack's numbers on rpm. Mine idles about 600 nicely.
Mike C.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: oil recommendation |
Oscar,
41CC was shipped to you with Shell Aero 100 and the idle RPM of 600 to 700.
Somewhere way back yonder I was instructed never to set an idle lower than
600 and to avoid a prolonged idle, to avoid fouling the plugs. Of course I'm no
A&E&P or whatever but I still can remember a few little things. It was
probabaly in flight school where we were flying L-16's equipped with 85's and
90's. both fuel injected. Also when I had my 150 STC'd it was required that the
rpm be raised to 750 idle for auto gas.
Avoid anything below 600 is my advice.
Corky
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: cold weather gear |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "gbowen@ptialaska.net" <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
Walt,
Sorry for the delay to your email, Bowl week. Anyway, Costco seems to
rotate stock fairly frequently, they currently have these cold/wet weather
suits on sale at their location here in Ogden UT, don't know if its
something they stock all the time or on their website. Helly Hansen foul
weather suits are favorites of the guys who go off to the Bering Sea for
fishing and crabbing, but little heavy with rubberized nylon due to wear
and tear. I have one of these suits for boating in my open cockpit Boston
Whaler for Alaska. These suits are also supplied at higher cost at most
marine suppliers like- West. Offshore Sailors like them, too. I thought
the $50 suit from Costco was a heck of a deal for a Piete type application.
Lighter weight nylon ripstop and good seals to water and wind.
Gordon
Original Message:
-----------------
From: walt evans waltdak@verizon.net
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: cold weather gear
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <waltdak@verizon.net>
Gordon,
Never shopped at Costco. When I tried their search, on their site, came up
with nothing. What would it be called?
thanks
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: cold weather gear
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "gbowen@ptialaska.net"
> <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
>
> Walt,
> Being from AK, feel can make a few recommendations about cold/wet weather
> gear. Costco is currently offering a wet/cold 2 pc. rip-stop nylon suit
> with velco in all the right places for about $50. Layer-up using poly
> longjohns under this type of wind wet tight gear and you'll be nice and
> cozy without the bulk.
> Gordon Bowen
> N-1033B
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: walt evans waltdak@verizon.net
> Date: Sun, 01 Jan 2006 16:01:01 -0500
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: cold weather gear
>
>
> Looking for advice on clothing for cold weather flying. I've tried a snow
> suit, but I feel like the Michelin Man. Anyone know of a supplier that
> has
> something that is thin and warm? Also gloves, and what on the head.
> Normally I fly with a kacki cloth helmet with a headset.
> Any and all inputs would be welcomed.
> The days here in Northern NJ are short and cold and damp, but I sure long
> to fly, even for a short time.
> I've flown during some cold days, but when I get back on the ground, I
> realize the whole plane is shaking,,,,,from me.
> thanks
> walt evans
> NX140DL
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: fuselage+tail weight? |
Jeff,
I weighed my fuselage a while ago and just weighed the tail feathers.
I believe the fuselage was about 75lbs completely bare - only wood
The tail feathers I just weighed are
VS 1.4lbs
Rudder 1.9lbs
Elevator 1.8lbs (3.6 for both)
HS 6.25lbs
So with no hardware or covering material that would total under 87lbs.
Hope this helps
Kirk
On Jan 2, 2006, at 7:52 PM, Jeff Boatright wrote:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jeff Boatright
> <jboatri@emory.edu>
>
> Listers,
>
> Randy tells me that his steel fuselage and tail members weigh 110
> lbs. Does anyone know what the wooden equivalents weight?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jeff
> --
> Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
> Associate Professor
> Department of Ophthalmology
> Emory University School of Medicine
> Atlanta, GA 30322
> Editor-in-Chief
> Molecular Vision
> http://www.molvis.org/
>
>
> www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
Kirk Huizenga
Community Expert
kirk.huizenga@moundsviewschools.org
651.482.8203
my views are not necessarily the view of my employer
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: A65 idle RPM |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Irwin Fust <ifust@digitalpath.net>
Oscar,
I have an A-65 in my other plane, an Aeronca Chief, and I have the idle
set at 650 rpm. It runs so smooooth. A Continental A-65 is such a
bullet proof engine. Easy to maintain. Easy to fix. Hardly ever
breaks down. It'll run forever. The only "down side" is that it is
only 65 horsepower and it doesn't have a starter (but, who really needs
one?). It's a great engine for a Pietenpol!
Irwin Fust
Anderson, CA
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: A65 idle RPM |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Oscar
Dittos with Mike. I run at 600 after warm up for a couple of minutes at
750.
Dick n.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A65 idle RPM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> Howdy again, Low 'n' Slow fliers-
>
> For those flying behind Continental A65s, what is the recommended idle
> RPM? I've got a rebuilt carb and will be setting the idle speed in a week
> or two, and need to know what these engines like.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Gusset dimensions |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Hodgson, Mark O" <mhodgson@bu.edu>
After a long break I'm back in my basement working on the horizontal
stabilizer and the rest of the tail feathers. I've lofted most of the
h.s. plans to the assembly table for starters, but am concerned that
there are no dimensions for the gusset plates. Someone at Brodhead had
said to basically eyeball the proportions to get them right, which is
what I've basically done. But the plan isn't to scale and I'm wondering
if that is good enough. Everyone seems to do these a tad differently.
I've checked the archive list, the Flying and Glider manual, and A.C.
43-13b for clues without coming up with much on how to figure the safest
and lightest-weight dimensions. Before I start butchering perfectly
good plywood I'd be open to advice. Also noticed that someone on
mykitplanes.com had lightening holes in some of the plates and was
wondering what the consensus is on that.
Thanks,
Mark Hodgson
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: A65 idle RPM |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <waltdak@verizon.net>
Oscar,
After my rebuild for putting it in the piet, I had some problems getting the
idle mixture right. Had an approach at a low throttle setting, and when I
came on with the throttle for a fly-by, it stumbled, and belched black
smoke. Kind of scarey.
After I got it leaned to the correct (it seems) setting, It idles down where
my Mentor said was right,,,around 550/600.
It is a sweet sound, after you start and walk to the car to get helmet and
goggles, you turn and look at it just popping along, smooth as silk. Hard
to realize that it is 1945 technology.
Ain't life Grand?
walt evans
NX140DL
Still wish I could add a starter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A65 idle RPM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> Howdy again, Low 'n' Slow fliers-
>
> For those flying behind Continental A65s, what is the recommended idle
> RPM? I've got a rebuilt carb and will be setting the idle speed in a week
> or two, and need to know what these engines like.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Discs for brakes |
Regarding disc brake discussions: Does anyone have a name and part number of a
suitable disc to use for disc brakes. I would like to attach the discs to a
straight axle hub similar to that shown in the "Flying and Glider Manual". I
have a set of small mechanically operated calipers.
Thank you.
John
---------------------------------
Message 12
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|
Pieters,
Some talk lately about winter flying wear. I buy jump suits etc from this
firm and have been satisfied. They have all sorts of warm sport clothing. I am
not a stockholder of this firm.
Trego's
2209 Oklahoma
Woodward, Okla 73801
1 800 627 0692
For a free catalog and their mailing list
Do NOt Archive
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: A65 idle RPM |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Harvey Rule <harvey.rule@sympatico.ca>
I trust while you are walking to the car to retrieve your helmet and
goggles there is a qualified pilot sitting in the cockpit minding this
aircraft for you????????????????
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <waltdak@verizon.net>
>
> Oscar,
> After my rebuild for putting it in the piet, I had some problems
> getting the idle mixture right. Had an approach at a low throttle
> setting, and when I came on with the throttle for a fly-by, it
> stumbled, and belched black smoke. Kind of scarey.
> After I got it leaned to the correct (it seems) setting, It idles down
> where my Mentor said was right,,,around 550/600.
> It is a sweet sound, after you start and walk to the car to get helmet
> and goggles, you turn and look at it just popping along, smooth as
> silk. Hard to realize that it is 1945 technology.
> Ain't life Grand?
> walt evans
> NX140DL
> Still wish I could add a starter.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, January 02, 2006 10:44 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: A65 idle RPM
>
>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
>> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>>
>> Howdy again, Low 'n' Slow fliers-
>>
>> For those flying behind Continental A65s, what is the recommended
>> idle RPM? I've got a rebuilt carb and will be setting the idle speed
>> in a week or two, and need to know what these engines like.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Oscar Zuniga
>> San Antonio, TX
>> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
>> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Discs for brakes |
Try www.kartworld.com They have a few alternitives. I chose the Wildwood brand. They also have mechanical types.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Egan
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 5:23 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Discs for brakes
Regarding disc brake discussions: Does anyone have a name and part number of
a suitable disc to use for disc brakes. I would like to attach the discs to
a straight axle hub similar to that shown in the "Flying and Glider Manual".
I have a set of small mechanically operated calipers.
Thank you.
John
Message 15
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| Subject: | Wing Build Question |
I've been gawking at Hoopman Wing Plan (WP) Drawing (3/3/34), the Full Size Rib
Plan and the 3 Piece Wing Supplement drawing (1/10/75 revised 3/13/82) and need
a little help before I build my rib jig and start cranking out garbage.
Full size rib plan shows vertical braces in the ribs one behind the front spar
and one ahead of the rear spar. 3/3/34 WP drawing doesn't show these. These
vertical braces seem like they definitely should be there for strength and alignment
reasons, right?
Full Size Rib Plan shows a slot for a tongue in the trailing edge. Do you have
to create your own TE stock? Didn't see it on Aircraft Spruce site, but it might
be called something else and I'm looking in the wrong place.
Original WP drawing (3/3/34) shows a 1" x 4.75" spar routed down to 1/2" in certain
areas. 3 Piece Wing Supp. shows a dimension of 3/4" for thickness for spars
and the same routed areas but no dimension on the thickness in the routed
area. (Still maintain a 1/2" thickness inside routed area and remove 1/8" from
each side?) Did Mr. Pietenpol determine that 1" was overkill? 3/4" just seems
a little light.
Again, I will now take the lead for the least advanced questions posted on the
list ...if your rib jig has clamps that hold the gussets in place while the T-88
sets, do you even need nails? I would think that 99.9% of the strength would
come from the adhesive. I plan to use a custom clamp arrangement using light
springs to distribute the pressure without starving the joint.
Thanks,
Glenn Thomas
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Wing Build Question |
Glenn
I started out stapling all gussetts to the ribs and removing later. I later found
that was really not needed. With T-88, simply pressing into place was fine.
I made my trailing edge stock by sawing down pieces of Douglas Fir from the lumber
yard. It is stronger than Sitca, but heavier. There is some high quality stock
available used for flooring. There is also aluminum TE stock in the ACS
cataloug, if you want to go that way.
I made mine by the method on the full size plan, I have seen it both ways. The
wing is so over built it really doesn't make a structural difference. Paul Poberenzy
built a Piet wing with 1/4x1/4 ribs.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Thomas
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 9:30 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing Build Question
I've been gawking at Hoopman Wing Plan (WP) Drawing (3/3/34), the Full Size Rib
Plan and the 3 Piece Wing Supplement drawing (1/10/75 revised 3/13/82) and
need a little help before I build my rib jig and start cranking out garbage.
Full size rib plan shows vertical braces in the ribs one behind the front spar
and one ahead of the rear spar. 3/3/34 WP drawing doesn't show these. These
vertical braces seem like they definitely should be there for strength and alignment
reasons, right?
Full Size Rib Plan shows a slot for a tongue in the trailing edge. Do you have
to create your own TE stock? Didn't see it on Aircraft Spruce site, but it
might be called something else and I'm looking in the wrong place.
Original WP drawing (3/3/34) shows a 1" x 4.75" spar routed down to 1/2" in certain
areas. 3 Piece Wing Supp. shows a dimension of 3/4" for thickness for
spars and the same routed areas but no dimension on the thickness in the routed
area. (Still maintain a 1/2" thickness inside routed area and remove 1/8" from
each side?) Did Mr. Pietenpol determine that 1" was overkill? 3/4" just
seems a little light.
Again, I will now take the lead for the least advanced questions posted on the
list ...if your rib jig has clamps that hold the gussets in place while the
T-88 sets, do you even need nails? I would think that 99.9% of the strength would
come from the adhesive. I plan to use a custom clamp arrangement using light
springs to distribute the pressure without starving the joint.
Thanks,
Glenn Thomas
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Discs for brakes |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Kirk Huizenga" <Kirk.Huizenga@moundsviewschools.org>
Looks like they closed shop recently.
>>> horzpool@goldengate.net 01/03/06 8:41 PM >>>
Try www.kartworld.com They have a few alternitives. I chose the Wildwood brand. They also have mechanical types.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: John Egan
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 03, 2006 5:23 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Discs for brakes
Regarding disc brake discussions: Does anyone have a name and part number of
a suitable disc to use for disc brakes. I would like to attach the discs to
a straight axle hub similar to that shown in the "Flying and Glider Manual".
I have a set of small mechanically operated calipers.
Thank you.
John
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: A65 idle RPM |
Adding starter to a Piet is like adding wheel pants :-) or converting it to tricycle...
out of "time" but probably safe..
Also I dont dare to leave my plane idling anatended, Murphy's goast might be
just floating around...
Saludos
Gary Gower
walt evans <waltdak@verizon.net> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans"
Oscar,
After my rebuild for putting it in the piet, I had some problems getting the
idle mixture right. Had an approach at a low throttle setting, and when I
came on with the throttle for a fly-by, it stumbled, and belched black
smoke. Kind of scarey.
After I got it leaned to the correct (it seems) setting, It idles down where
my Mentor said was right,,,around 550/600.
It is a sweet sound, after you start and walk to the car to get helmet and
goggles, you turn and look at it just popping along, smooth as silk. Hard
to realize that it is 1945 technology.
Ain't life Grand?
walt evans
NX140DL
Still wish I could add a starter.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga"
Subject: Pietenpol-List: A65 idle RPM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
>
>
> Howdy again, Low 'n' Slow fliers-
>
> For those flying behind Continental A65s, what is the recommended idle
> RPM? I've got a rebuilt carb and will be setting the idle speed in a week
> or two, and need to know what these engines like.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: A65 idle RPM |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Graham Hansen" <grhans@cable-lynx.net>
Group,
Having had a close association with the small Continentals, mainly those
equipped with the Stromberg carburetors, for well over 50 years, I have
found that 550 to 600 rpm at static idle is about right. The following
procedures have worked well for me:
It is important to warm the engine thoroughly and adjust the idle mixture
first (idle speed to be adjusted later) by means of the big brass screw on
the aft side of the upper carburetor body. With the engine idling (throttle
fully closed) slowly turn this screw counterclockwise to enrich the mixture.
When the engine begins to run roughly, it is time to slowly turn the screw
clockwise to lean the mixture. As you do so, it is a good idea to open the
throttle a bit to clear excessive richness, then close the throttle again
and continue to slowly lean the mixture until the engine begins to run
roughly. Then turn the screw counterclockwise until the engine idles
smoothly (usually not more than 1/2 turn is required).
You may find the idle rpm is now a bit too fast--especially if the idle
mixture was set too rich at the beginning. Adjust the idle speed after
clearing the engine with a short burst of throttle, and you should "be in
business".
To check the idle mixture setting, turn off the fuel with the throttle
closed and let the engine idle until it runs out of fuel. Ideally, the idle
rpm will increase slightly just before the engine stops.
In our climate (Alberta, Canada), it is customary to increase the idle speed
to about 600 rpm in the winter and enrich the idle mixture by 1/4 to 1/2
turn of the adjusting screw. Summer setting is about 550 rpm with the
mixture adjusted as described previously. The Stromberg does not have an
accelerator pump and the engine may quit if the throttle is opened too
quickly when doing a gliding approach on a cold day. For this reason, we
generally avoid power-off, engine idling, approaches in the winter. Of
course, these precautions don't apply to you folks in the warm, sunny south!
Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN)
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