Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:02 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Clif Dawson)
2. 04:04 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Lou Wither)
3. 04:05 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Lou Wither)
4. 04:10 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Lou Wither)
5. 04:21 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Glenn Thomas)
6. 04:36 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Glenn Thomas)
7. 05:04 AM - welding/premade parts (Douwe Blumberg)
8. 05:12 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
9. 05:12 AM - seat belts (Douwe Blumberg)
10. 05:27 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Scott S.)
11. 05:39 AM - Re: seat belts (harvey rule)
12. 05:41 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Egan, John)
13. 06:22 AM - Seat belts and harnesses, and ignitions (Oscar Zuniga)
14. 06:38 AM - the nose knows (Oscar Zuniga)
15. 06:48 AM - Re: the nose knows (Sterling)
16. 06:59 AM - Re: the nose knows (Sterling)
17. 07:58 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Paul Carter)
18. 09:19 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Lou Wither)
19. 09:31 AM - Ford Piet on ebay 1day left (Michael D Cuy)
20. 10:12 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Jim Ash)
21. 10:14 AM - Re: Ford Piet on ebay 1day left (Jim Markle)
22. 10:31 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Carl Vought)
23. 10:40 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Jim Ash)
24. 10:45 AM - Re: Ford Piet on ebay 1day left (Jim Ash)
25. 11:02 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Scott S.)
26. 11:20 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Jim Ash)
27. 11:43 AM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Lou Wither)
28. 12:03 PM - Elevator center beam question (Dan Loegering)
29. 12:16 PM - Re: Elevator center beam question (Jack T. Textor)
30. 03:13 PM - Steel fittings (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
31. 04:12 PM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Rcaprd@aol.com)
32. 04:26 PM - Re: Elevator center beam question (Dale Johnson)
33. 06:40 PM - Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings (Kenneth M. Heide)
34. 06:51 PM - Corvair engine cowling..... (Kenneth M. Heide)
35. 06:59 PM - Tundra tires or Motorcycle tires (Kenneth M. Heide)
36. 07:06 PM - Re: Tundra tires or Motorcycle tires (Dick Navratil)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
Go here and check out "Zen and the Weld Puddle" under "How To";
http://www.airbum.com/articles.html#How
Lot's of other neat stuff on Budd's site as well.
And whatever you do, DON'T grind, file, or otherwise attempt to
clean up your welds. You'll be cutting across the grain lines in
the metal thus weakening it. And don't stick it in water to cool it
down faster, your inner blacksmith won't like it. Neither will you
when it comes apart at some inopportune time.
You might want to look into some night school lessons as well.
One little trick to make things a little easier is to cut the welding
rods in half and fold over one end. That way you'll be sure to pick
it up by the cold end every time. :-)
Here's an update on my progress, so much to do, so little time.
http://clifdawson.ca/Pietenpol4.html
Clif, somewhere on the wetcoast of Nort America.
If you really want to know, go see the frapper. :-)
http://www.frappr.com/pietenpol
PS, "fill in the holes" , good pun, I like it.
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings
Again, I only know what I've read, but those books seem helpful. I hear the
the Welder's handbook is weak in some areas but the literature that comes with
a Victor welding rig is supposed to fill in the holes.
Good luck!
Glenn
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
I welded up all of my fittings with a gas torch. Did one motor mount wrong with
a Tig setup, the replacement was done with gas. I much preferred the gas welding.
I am not sure that this is an application for either stick welding or
mig welding, although I understand the Maule fuselage is welded together with
mig.
Hope this helps.
Lou Wither
N799LJ
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
I cut all of mine out with a band saw, and finished with a file. The old fashoned
way, but I bet it is a lot more cost effective than laser cutting.
Lou Wither
N799LJ
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
The inner blacksmith might find it handy to do some reading on welding 4130 tubing.
I believe that he might find there is a process call normalizing that will
also take out the internal stresses in the weld and soften the metal in the
heat effected zone of the weld thereby making it more ductile. This is especially
true when welding with a TIG set-up.
Lou Wither
N799LJ
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
There is a lot to know about welding and a lot of welders aren't familiar with
the stringent requirements of aircraft welding. That's why I read a few books.
The point Lou Makes with the stress relieving process is important and something
my brother would never bother with but I WILL find a place to do this on
my engine mount. The book ("Aircraft Welding") is cheap and you can read through
it in an evening and have it around for a reference.
Glenn
----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Wither
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 7:10 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings
The inner blacksmith might find it handy to do some reading on welding 4130 tubing.
I believe that he might find there is a process call normalizing that
will also take out the internal stresses in the weld and soften the metal in the
heat effected zone of the weld thereby making it more ductile. This is especially
true when welding with a TIG set-up.
Lou Wither
N799LJ
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
The airbum site is a great resource. ...and your plane is a work of art!
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 3:01 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings
Go here and check out "Zen and the Weld Puddle" under "How To";
http://www.airbum.com/articles.html#How
Lot's of other neat stuff on Budd's site as well.
And whatever you do, DON'T grind, file, or otherwise attempt to
clean up your welds. You'll be cutting across the grain lines in
the metal thus weakening it. And don't stick it in water to cool it
down faster, your inner blacksmith won't like it. Neither will you
when it comes apart at some inopportune time.
You might want to look into some night school lessons as well.
One little trick to make things a little easier is to cut the welding
rods in half and fold over one end. That way you'll be sure to pick
it up by the cold end every time. :-)
Here's an update on my progress, so much to do, so little time.
http://clifdawson.ca/Pietenpol4.html
Clif, somewhere on the wetcoast of Nort America.
If you really want to know, go see the frapper. :-)
http://www.frappr.com/pietenpol
PS, "fill in the holes" , good pun, I like it.
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings
Again, I only know what I've read, but those books seem helpful. I hear the
the Welder's handbook is weak in some areas but the literature that comes with
a Victor welding rig is supposed to fill in the holes.
Good luck!
Glenn
Message 7
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Subject: | welding/premade parts |
Hi Scott,
Welcome to Piet land!
I know that Lee Stenson at Brodhead airport had some parts laser cut and was offering
them for sale about four years ago. I don't have his number but you could
track him down if you get hold of someone at Brodhead, WI airport. Maybe
he has some laying around. They were very nice.
Do not be afraid to tackle the fittings, they're very simple. Think of it as hard
plywood and work it the same, just use metal working tools. The bandsaw mentioned
is perfect, just use a metal cutting blade and slow the speed down, then
file and grind edges etc, etc. Be sure you get Tony Bingalas' books on building
from EAA and you'll gain lots of confidence.
Don't mig weld aircraft parts. TIG is too expensive, so find yourself a nice little
oxy/acetelyne setup and a book or two or even a video (all available through
EAA or elsewhere) and just start. If you have a friend, ask him or pay a
welder to help you for a few hours. Be sure you use good rod from an aircraft
supplier once you really start on actual fittings, but you can research that
later.
If this all was that difficult, you think we'd be able to be doing it??!!
and.. just keep asking questions, that's why we're all here
Douwe
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
That would be DJ Vegh's fantastic site. An inspiration to many of us. The Emachineshop
he links, may still has his job on file. Though one thing to remember
is that DJ's plane is a GN1, so the fittings are different from the Pietenpol.
Additionally I seem to recall DJ indicated that since he has had his parts made,
the prices for their work had gone up considerably. But they may be worth
a try if you are looking for a way to avoid doing to much metal work.
Michael Silvius
In Scarborough, Maine
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Thomas
I forgot the paste the link. Here it is...
http://imagedv.com/aircamper/log/image-pages/06-10-03.htm
Message 9
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Irwin,
I used car racing belts with a wide lap belt and two narrower, over the shoulder
belts that are permanently attached to the lap belt, which opens in the middle
using a large lever type buckle.
I used this belt in off-roading and really like the larger width across my lap,
though this stuff IS heavier than aircraft stuff.
It's a little hard to snuggle into, but so what.
Douwe
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
I took a metals class back in college (20 yrs) ago, in which we did some gas
welding. Seeing the instructor break apart with his bare hands what looked
like a good weld taught me there's much more to it than meets the eye. I
swore I'd NEVER trust my own gas welding. That's why I asked about
electric, but it appears that's not so simple either.
Message 11
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: harvey rule <harvey.rule@bell.ca>
Always remember there are places on your body that are suspended in
water or a substance like water.Even though you hold your body ridged in
a crach ,these parts move anyway,very quickly to a point where they are
either stopped by bone or they just tear through the flesh.I have heard
horrifying stories (some may be myths) of instances where parts have
kept going and it don't matter how good your held in place.Then again
most injuries in a car would be prevented had the people inside been
held in place better.We should all really wear helmets when driving a
car or flying a plane.Like it or not it would help a lot of head
injuries.
> Douwe Blumberg wrote:
>
> Irwin,
>
> I used car racing belts with a wide lap belt and two narrower, over
> the shoulder belts that are permanently attached to the lap belt,
> which opens in the middle using a large lever type buckle.
>
> I used this belt in off-roading and really like the larger width
> across my lap, though this stuff IS heavier than aircraft stuff.
>
> It's a little hard to snuggle into, but so what.
>
> Douwe
Message 12
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Subject: | woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
Another good welding source is:
Book: Performance Welding by Richard Finch - Richard is one of the
guys who comes up to EAA and volunteers in the gas welding both, and he
visits the EAA museum during the January EAA Sportair workshops to teach
gas welding. You can find his welding books (and he published a book on
"How to keep your Corvair engine running") in stores like "Home Depot",
however the cover on the welding book when sold at Home Depot may say
something like "Monster Garage Welding" or something, but I think it's
the same "how to" book, and it will have his name on it. When speaking
with him, he explains how many commercial built airframes have been MIG
welded over the years due to simply the cost savings in time, and he
mentioned specific types of planes which I can not recall. He also
discussed with the group that I was in when he spoke about normalizing
welds. The message I left with after all said and done is that I will
not attempt to normalize any welds, and I will be better off just
letting the weld cool down slowly.
I am also more of a woodworker than a metal worker and have all the same
issues during the metal working process.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn
Thomas
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 6:34 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by metal
=66ittings
=09
=09
The airbum site is a great resource. ...and your plane is a
work of art!
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson <mailto:CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 3:01 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by
metal fittings
Go here and check out "Zen and the Weld Puddle" under
"How To";
http://www.airbum.com/articles.html#How
Lot's of other neat stuff on Budd's site as well.
And whatever you do, DON'T grind, file, or otherwise
attempt to
clean up your welds. You'll be cutting across the grain
lines in
the metal thus weakening it. And don't stick it in water
to cool it
down faster, your inner blacksmith won't like it.
Neither will you
when it comes apart at some inopportune time.
You might want to look into some night school lessons as
well.
One little trick to make things a little easier is to
cut the welding
rods in half and fold over one end. That way you'll be
sure to pick
it up by the cold end every time. :-)
Here's an update on my progress, so much to do, so
little time.
http://clifdawson.ca/Pietenpol4.html
Clif, somewhere on the wetcoast of Nort America.
If you really want to know, go see the frapper. :-)
http://www.frappr.com/pietenpol
PS, "fill in the holes" , good pun, I like it.
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker
intimidated by metal fittings
Again, I only know what I've read, but those
books seem helpful. I hear the the Welder's handbook is weak in some
areas but the literature that comes with a Victor welding rig is
supposed to fill in the holes.
Good luck!
Glenn
This e-mail is intended for the use of the addressee(s) only and may contain privileged,
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Message 13
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Subject: | Seat belts and harnesses, and ignitions |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
My opinion on seat belts and harnesses, based on NX41CC and my roughly 150
lb., 5'-10" frame. After the nose-over incident, I was determined to change
the seat belts in the airplane to a race-car type harness. I figured I
wouldn't be able to anchor the submarine strap (the one up between your
legs) due to the controls being right there below the pilot's crotch, but a
4-point would be fine. So I bought a basic quick-release race car harness
from Summitt Racing, one that had a single strap going aft from the shoulder
harnesses so I could still use the same anchor point in the aft fuselage,
and ditched the submarine strap. I got it all to fit on the old anchor
points and slid into the seat for a fit.
And I didn't even get the wide, fat straps that are available; I think mine
are only 2" wide straps and you can get some honkin' 3" wide ones.
I ended up with a big, fat buckle and latch assembly not only in my lap, but
pressing the tops of my thighs and restricting the use of my legs. Not only
was it not comfortable, it may be a bit dangerous because it severely
restricts the motions needed to fly the airplane and to lean out the side to
toss a roll of toilet paper (oops... I didn't mean that). Seriously, it
will...not...work...in the snug little Piet cockpit. If you want to try it
and see, email me privately with your address and I'll send you a brand-new
Summit Racing 5-point harness in blue to try for yourself. Really! It's
sitting in a box in my hangar for anybody who wants to try it out (then buy
it if you want it after trying it). So I've gone back to the olive-drab,
military-style seat belt and harness that Corky put in the airplane
originally and we're back to comfortable again.
I don't like the fact that the shoulder straps on this military rig can be
unhooked from the lap belt, but will have to live with that and be aware
that it can happen unintentionally. And by the way, there was a discussion
a few days ago about stuff on the instrument panel and I already mentioned
that good old Charlie ended up with half an ignition key embedded in his
forehead when the plane went over on its back. It snapped off in the
ignition switch when he hit, and Charlie's face was all bloody from the cut
on his forehead from the key. When you install stuff on your panel, check
where your head would hit if you were slammed forward before you "get it
tune with your inner ignition key"!
Another thing I found from this (I'm replacing the ignition wiring with
shielded, to cut the radio noise) is that the blow to the ignition switch
stripped one of the screws that holds the switch together, and at some point
could have led to an open "hot" mag when it was supposed to be grounded, or
a dead mag when it was supposed to be driving an A65 toilet-paper slicer in
the air. The screws that hold the switch together screw into plastic, and
the impact had stripped out one of the two screws. Either way, I use this
as an example to carefully examine things after you have an incident of some
sort. I now have an identical, brand-new ACS ignition switch.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/CorkyPiet.html
Message 14
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
I guess noses are like opinions... everybody has one and there is at least
one you don't like. I think that the nose of 41CC is about the best
treatment I've ever seen on a Continental-powered Piet (see the top couple
of pictures at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/CorkyPiet.html ), and it's
essentially the same as Mike Cuy's. I really do think it's tops for
simplicity and clean lines. Most of the others look too boxy, or too
bulbuous, or too... something, to me. They try to enclose too much of the
engine and accessories and end up detracting from the lines of the airplane.
There are several other very attractive Piet noses I've seen, though...
William Wynne's ill-fated Corvair-powered Piet had a very nice shape to the
nose if you plan to have a spinner, and the absolutely incredible artwork
that DJ Vegh did for Sterling Brooks to create the TACO logo, featured a
fabulous Piet with a beautiful nose treatment that brings out that antique
look if that's what you're after... sort of like what the cowling would look
like if you hung a Ranger or other inverted inline engine on the nose.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: the nose knows |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Sterling" <sterling@pgrb.com>
Oscar:
Can you send a picture of your nose (the airplane nose... I've already seen
your personal nose in Junction...)
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: the nose knows
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> I guess noses are like opinions... everybody has one and there is at least
> one you don't like. I think that the nose of 41CC is about the best
> treatment I've ever seen on a Continental-powered Piet (see the top couple
> of pictures at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/CorkyPiet.html ), and it's
> essentially the same as Mike Cuy's. I really do think it's tops for
> simplicity and clean lines. Most of the others look too boxy, or too
> bulbuous, or too... something, to me. They try to enclose too much of the
> engine and accessories and end up detracting from the lines of the
> airplane.
>
> There are several other very attractive Piet noses I've seen, though...
> William Wynne's ill-fated Corvair-powered Piet had a very nice shape to
> the nose if you plan to have a spinner, and the absolutely incredible
> artwork that DJ Vegh did for Sterling Brooks to create the TACO logo,
> featured a fabulous Piet with a beautiful nose treatment that brings out
> that antique look if that's what you're after... sort of like what the
> cowling would look like if you hung a Ranger or other inverted inline
> engine on the nose.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: the nose knows |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Sterling" <sterling@pgrb.com>
Seriously, I'm in need of some direction as I get close to building the nose
on my Piet...
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sterling" <sterling@pgrb.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:48 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: the nose knows
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Sterling" <sterling@pgrb.com>
>
> Oscar:
>
> Can you send a picture of your nose (the airplane nose... I've already
> seen your personal nose in Junction...)
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:37 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: the nose knows
>
>
>> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
>> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>>
>> I guess noses are like opinions... everybody has one and there is at
>> least one you don't like. I think that the nose of 41CC is about the
>> best treatment I've ever seen on a Continental-powered Piet (see the top
>> couple of pictures at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/CorkyPiet.html ),
>> and it's essentially the same as Mike Cuy's. I really do think it's tops
>> for simplicity and clean lines. Most of the others look too boxy, or too
>> bulbuous, or too... something, to me. They try to enclose too much of
>> the engine and accessories and end up detracting from the lines of the
>> airplane.
>>
>> There are several other very attractive Piet noses I've seen, though...
>> William Wynne's ill-fated Corvair-powered Piet had a very nice shape to
>> the nose if you plan to have a spinner, and the absolutely incredible
>> artwork that DJ Vegh did for Sterling Brooks to create the TACO logo,
>> featured a fabulous Piet with a beautiful nose treatment that brings out
>> that antique look if that's what you're after... sort of like what the
>> cowling would look like if you hung a Ranger or other inverted inline
>> engine on the nose.
>>
>> Oscar Zuniga
>> San Antonio, TX
>> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
>> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
>
>
>
Message 17
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Subject: | woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
Scott,
Go to aviation@metalcraftuk.freeserve.co.uk
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Scott S.
Sent: Wednesday, January 11, 2006 10:09 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings
I'm an excellent woodworker who's intimidated by all the metal fittings in
the Pietenpol. If not for that, I'd have jumped headlong into building last
spring when I first ordered plans and signed up for this list.
My first question (among many), is it possible for an inexperienced person
to weld the small parts with a $300 electric welder from Home Depot, or must
it be done by a skilled professional? Secondly, I would appreciate leads as
to where I can buy fittings pre-made for the Piet, as I don't have the tools
or knowledge to cut them out quickly and efficiently. Resourceful I am.
Metalworker I am not.
Thanks for any info you guys can give.
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
Scott,
I am curious, what college do you go to that taught gas welding?
Lou Wither
N8799H
Do not archive
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Subject: | Ford Piet on ebay 1day left |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Guys-- have you seen this crate yet ??
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4603404406&indexURL=2&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting
I'd wanna see this one in person before buying it...........even cheap.
Mike C.
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Subject: | woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
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Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Ford Piet on ebay 1day left |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Markle <jim_markle@mindspring.com>
I just hope whoever buys it tells us how those brakes work....with what appear
to be straight laced hubs.....
-----Original Message-----
>From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>Sent: Jan 12, 2006 11:29 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Ford Piet on ebay 1day left
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>
>Guys-- have you seen this crate yet ??
>
>
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4603404406&indexURL=2&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting
>
>
>I'd wanna see this one in person before buying it...........even cheap.
>
>Mike C.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
For the record, I took Welding, Machine Shop, and steam lab at LSU half a centry
ago......Carl Vought
----- Original Message -----
From: Lou Wither
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 11:19 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings
Scott,
I am curious, what college do you go to that taught gas welding?
Lou Wither
N8799H
Do not archive
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
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Subject: | Re: Ford Piet on ebay 1day left |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
ANY plane will stop at least once....
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Jim Markle <jim_markle@mindspring.com>
>Sent: Jan 12, 2006 1:14 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Ford Piet on ebay 1day left
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Markle <jim_markle@mindspring.com>
>
>
>I just hope whoever buys it tells us how those brakes work....with what appear
to be straight laced hubs.....
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>>From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>>Sent: Jan 12, 2006 11:29 AM
>>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Ford Piet on ebay 1day left
>>
>>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>>
>>Guys-- have you seen this crate yet ??
>>
>>
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=4603404406&indexURL=2&photoDisplayType=2#ebayphotohosting
>>
>>
>>I'd wanna see this one in person before buying it...........even cheap.
>>
>>Mike C.
Message 25
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
The class didn't teach gas welding per se, it was a general metals class
that covered several areas. We even did some sand casting of aluminum,
which was pretty cool. Middle TN State U.
On 1/12/06, Lou Wither <nav8799h@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> Scott,
>
> I am curious, what college do you go to that taught gas welding?
>
> Lou Wither
> N8799H
>
> Do not archive
>
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Subject: | woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
I took mine at Wentworth Institute in Boston, not quite a half a century ago, but
got out in 1970. I didn't know how many other schools taught courses such
as that. We too had machine shop and electrical wiring shops.
Lou Wither
N799LJ
Do not archive
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Subject: | Elevator center beam question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dan Loegering" <danl@odayequipment.com>
Need help with a plans question on the elevator.
Just finished laying out the tail surfaces in Cadd and had a question on the center
beam dimensions in the plan. The depth of the center beam is listed as 3/4",
but the main beam depth is only 5/8"... This would put a bow of 1/16" per
side on the elevators and then it tapers back to 1/2" at the trailing edge.
What are the thoughts out there on this? When you constructed your elevators,
did you use the full depth 3/4" center beam, or did you shave this down to 5/8",
or even a bit more to match the taper back to the trailing edge...
In looking this over, I don't think the 1/16" bow will affect anything, just curious
what others have done. Same question for the rudder as it's beam dimensions
are the same as the elevators.
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
Message 29
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Subject: | Elevator center beam question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack T. Textor" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Dan,
I tapered mine down to 5/8" starting from about six inches from each
tip.
Jack Textor
Need help with a plans question on the elevator.
Just finished laying out the tail surfaces in Cadd and had a question on
the center beam dimensions in the plan. The depth of the center beam is
listed as 3/4", but the main beam depth is only 5/8"... This would put
a bow of 1/16" per side on the elevators and then it tapers back to 1/2"
at the trailing edge.
What are the thoughts out there on this? When you constructed your
elevators, did you use the full depth 3/4" center beam, or did you shave
this down to 5/8", or even a bit more to match the taper back to the
trailing edge...
In looking this over, I don't think the 1/16" bow will affect anything,
just curious what others have done. Same question for the rudder as
it's beam dimensions are the same as the elevators.
Thanks!
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
Message 30
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Scott: A lot of the steel fittings are simple steel strap. For instance
strut fittings are .90 X 1 X what ever long. AS&S sells steel strip in
various sizes and withs, just cut to length. buy an extra couple of feet
of everything . This saved me a lot of work. Leon S.
Message 31
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
In a message dated 1/11/2006 9:10:53 PM Central Standard Time,
covertspecialops@gmail.com writes:
Resourceful I am. Metalworker I am not.
I say you are a Craftsman, and one way or another, you're going to do all
your metal work, including the welding. Then, you can get back to woodwork,
and build your Toilet-Paper cutter...I mean Prop.
I learned to weld at 'The School of Hard Knocks'. My dad was the
instructor, I was a young teenager, class was in his Auto Repair Shop, and my most
important task in the winter, was to keep the coal furnace going !!
I'm currently building a Wittman Tailwind W10, and I will tack weld with
a MIG, then oxy/accy weld the clusters. No normalize.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 32
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Subject: | Elevator center beam question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dale Johnson" <ddjohn@earthlink.net>
Dan
Build just like the plan shows. The corners( rear elevater ) will have to
be tapered so the gussets lay flat.
The center beam & main beam where the wire braces attach should be built up
flush with the ribs.This allows the brackets to be mounted
on top of the fabric.This makes it a lot easier to cover & paint. Drill
holes in the wood than after it's covered melt the holes in the fabric with
a small soldering iron.
Dale in Mpls
> [Original Message]
> From: Dan Loegering <danl@odayequipment.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 1/12/2006 2:02:52 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Elevator center beam question
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dan Loegering"
<danl@odayequipment.com>
>
> Need help with a plans question on the elevator.
>
> Just finished laying out the tail surfaces in Cadd and had a question on
the center beam dimensions in the plan. The depth of the center beam is
listed as 3/4", but the main beam depth is only 5/8"... This would put a
bow of 1/16" per side on the elevators and then it tapers back to 1/2" at
the trailing edge.
>
> What are the thoughts out there on this? When you constructed your
elevators, did you use the full depth 3/4" center beam, or did you shave
this down to 5/8", or even a bit more to match the taper back to the
trailing edge...
>
> In looking this over, I don't think the 1/16" bow will affect anything,
just curious what others have done. Same question for the rudder as it's
beam dimensions are the same as the elevators.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 33
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Subject: | Re: woodworker intimidated by metal fittings |
I must make mention of that site......they will not let you use someones else pattern
even if you have permission. The only way to get those parts are to find
the original person who ordered them and have them call it in and ship to his
door. Then he can send them to you.
Their policy is non-negotiable to everyone......This village idiot tried with
another aircraft. Having said all of that gobletty goop....They do excellent
work and very reasonable. Now affordable to you and me......that another story.
Ken
Do not Archive
MICHAEL SILVIUS <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net> wrote:
That would be DJ Vegh's fantastic site. An inspiration to many of us.
The Emachineshop he links, may still has his job on file. Though one thing
to remember is that DJ's plane is a GN1, so the fittings are different from the
Pietenpol. Additionally I seem to recall DJ indicated that since he has had
his parts made, the prices for their work had gone up considerably. But they may
be worth a try if you are looking for a way to avoid doing to much metal work.
Michael Silvius
In Scarborough, Maine
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Thomas
I forgot the paste the link. Here it is...
http://imagedv.com/aircamper/log/image-pages/06-10-03.htm
---------------------------------
Photo Books. You design it and well bind it!
Message 34
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Subject: | Corvair engine cowling..... |
Hello Fellow Pietens:
The simple question I have is this: Are there any plans for a corvair designed
cowling? The photo sent with my plans (appears to be a piet with a corvair engine)
looks just like a production cowl. Very well done!
Does anyone have plans or drawings to make fabrication guessing much less enjoyable?
I am allergic to cranial rectal inversion even though I catch it every
so often.
Ken Heide
Fargo, ND
---------------------------------
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Message 35
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Subject: | Tundra tires or Motorcycle tires |
Scott:
I too have been searching for a good set of lightweight tundra tires for my piet.
Here is what I have come up with.
At our local Fleet Farm they carry Carlisle Tires size 18x9.50x8NHS 4 ply tubeless
rib TL for $31.99. I like the size and width of these tires and they are
not very heavy. If you get a chance to look at these (Carlisle web site ) tell
me your thoughts. They look very much like the real aircraft tires with a wide
profile and moderate groove channels.
Be very interested in what others have to say. Also wondering the weight of complete
set-ups of motorcycle tires vs tundra tires?...
Ken Heide
Fargo, ND
---------------------------------
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Message 36
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Subject: | Re: Tundra tires or Motorcycle tires |
Ken
My Harley wheels weigh out at 58 lbs. Thats 2 - 21 in rims with tires, rotors,
calipers and axle.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kenneth M. Heide
To: Pietenpol
Sent: Thursday, January 12, 2006 8:59 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tundra tires or Motorcycle tires
Scott:
I too have been searching for a good set of lightweight tundra tires for my piet.
Here is what I have come up with.
At our local Fleet Farm they carry Carlisle Tires size 18x9.50x8NHS 4 ply tubeless
rib TL for $31.99. I like the size and width of these tires and they are
not very heavy. If you get a chance to look at these (Carlisle web site ) tell
me your thoughts. They look very much like the real aircraft tires with a wide
profile and moderate groove channels.
Be very interested in what others have to say. Also wondering the weight of complete
set-ups of motorcycle tires vs tundra tires?...
Ken Heide
Fargo, ND
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