Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - update on Flycorvair.com website (Oscar Zuniga)
2. 05:41 AM - Re: "The nose knows" Pietenpol cowling. (Hans Vander Voort)
3. 07:09 AM - Re: transportability (Ralph)
4. 07:28 AM - serious information for Corvair builders (Oscar Zuniga)
5. 07:29 AM - Re: Pietenpol questions (Hans Vander Voort)
6. 10:11 AM - Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (Jim Markle)
7. 10:47 AM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (Hans Vander Voort)
8. 10:47 AM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (DJ Vegh)
9. 11:37 AM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (Jim Markle)
10. 11:46 AM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (Jim Markle)
11. 11:58 AM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (John Egan)
12. 12:09 PM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (DJ Vegh)
13. 12:32 PM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (gcardinal)
14. 01:36 PM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (Sterling)
15. 01:50 PM - Re: Re:Sitka spruce availability (Jack T. Textor)
16. 02:49 PM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (Peter W Johnson)
17. 04:00 PM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
18. 04:30 PM - Interested in the Smoke.... (Kenneth M. Heide)
19. 04:36 PM - Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... (Sterling)
20. 04:38 PM - Re: Interested in the Smoke.... (Sterling)
21. 04:57 PM - Ribstitching - Don't Do What I Did (slowbilder@comcast.net)
22. 05:31 PM - Re: Interested in the Smoke.... (Rcaprd@aol.com)
23. 06:48 PM - Wing spar questions (Jack T. Textor)
24. 06:58 PM - Redesign of..... upper lift strut fitting.... (Jim Markle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | update on Flycorvair.com website |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
William has posted an update to his website, at
http://www.flycorvair.com/hangar.html . The new engine disassembly videos
are now available and he has also announced two additional ones now in
production. Also included are updates on back-ordered parts.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: "The nose knows" Pietenpol cowling. |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Hans Vander Voort <hans.vander.voort@alfalaval.com>
All the inquiries about noses and cowlings spurred me to finish the drawing
of mine (cowling that is).
Mind you the drawings are reversed engineered from the cowling that I made
from sketches on my workbench.
Drawing is are listed in Mykitplane .com file section.
Or copy link to address bar:
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/fileslist2.cfm?AlbumID=74
Pictures and a description at:
http://www.hometown.aol.com/hvandervoo/indexfront.html
Hans
NX 15KV, Waller, TX
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: transportability |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Ralph" <ralphhsd@itctel.com>
A number of years ago an article in the PBA newsletter had an article about
a builder in England who had developed a set of hinges for folding a
Pietenpol. It might be something to check into.
Carol and Ralph
Raymond
Message 4
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| Subject: | serious information for Corvair builders |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Those who are building or flying Corvair engines should read William's
latest technical report on the crankshaft, at
http://www.flycorvair.com/crankissues.html
It's long and the news isn't great, but if you're planning to fly behind a
Corvair, better take a look.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol questions |
John,
1. I have rebuild engines before ( two car engines) thus I was not to
worried about my capabilities.
But the Corvair is a experimental engine (for airplanes) and as such you
should respect that.
Every flight I always listen for abnormal sounds.
Rebuilding the engine is not difficult, many books are written about it and
it can be done by a novice.
Most trouble I had was with the ancillary equipment, Electrical system,
Carburetor, fuel system, Airfilter, heat box and muffler.
Limited material is available on this and you're own creative engineering
needs to be applied.
I am comfortable with the Corvair engine (at least as comfortable I would
be with Continetal or Lycoming)
Most engine trouble starts with the ancillary equipment, a heat box that
does not work properly or a fuel system that has a fault.
It is rarely the engine it self.
2. Bought the following from AS&S:
(Embedded image moved to file: pic26777.jpg)
I did not make a fiberglass fuel tank, I originally had a 12 Gallon
Aluminum Fuel tank in the center section with a 2 gallon header tank in the
nose.
I have now a 12 Gallon Fuel tank in the nose, found out a Piper J3 tank
fits in the long fuselage.
I still have the 12 Gallon Tank in the center section but will remove this
eventually.
Best regards
Hans
John Egan
<johnegan99@yahoo
.com> To
hans.vander.voort@alfalaval.com
01/16/2006 08:39 cc
AM
Subject
Pietenpol questions
Hans,
I like your Piet a lot Hans. You did a great job. I'm in the building
process, and I would like to ask you a couple of questions if I may.
1. I see onyour web site, you mention that you built up your Corvair
yourself. I am thinking about that (building mine), however I have never
rebuilt an engine. Do you believe this is an area that an ameture can
tackle? I have bought the Wyme conversion manual, and most of his video
tapes, but it seems to make like a very challenging task. Seems high risk
to me.
2. Could you list the materials you used to make the fiberglass section of
your nose? Did you make a fiberglass fuel tank?
Thank you. I hope I'm not bothering you.
john
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays,
whatever.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech Counselor
check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it. And
I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the weld
enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in a Negative
G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between the
straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative G situation,
but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Hans Vander Voort <hans.vander.voort@alfalaval.com>
Jim,
I would fill the center to avoid crushing the strut but not for the
negative G's
Negative G loads are not an issue for a Pietenpol struts, theoretically
they handle 7 G's positive and probably 3+ negative.
I did some calculations once, but it is so over engineered it can stand
many times normal flight (non Aerobatic) maneuvers
Which brings up an question I have asked myself many times.
Has anyone ever done a successful Roll or Loop in a Aircamper?
Not that I am going to try, just like to know.
Hans
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
I see you use the Skytek struts. Why not insert a solid piece of 2024 aluminum
like I did?
something to consider ( and you probably know this already, but just in case) is
you will want to prime the steel piece with zinc chromate. don't want aluminum
touching steel or you get dissimilar metal corrosion issues.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 11:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech Counselor
check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it. And
I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the weld
enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in a Negative
G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between the
straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative G situation,
but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jim Markle" <jim_markle@mindspring.com>
Thanks Hans,
Yes, I have a spacer/bushing in there but it's hard to see in the pic.
Thanks!
JM
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans Vander Voort" <hans.vander.voort@alfalaval.com>
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:46 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Hans Vander Voort
> <hans.vander.voort@alfalaval.com>
>
> Jim,
>
> I would fill the center to avoid crushing the strut but not for the
> negative G's
>
> Negative G loads are not an issue for a Pietenpol struts, theoretically
> they handle 7 G's positive and probably 3+ negative.
> I did some calculations once, but it is so over engineered it can stand
> many times normal flight (non Aerobatic) maneuvers
>
> Which brings up an question I have asked myself many times.
> Has anyone ever done a successful Roll or Loop in a Aircamper?
>
> Not that I am going to try, just like to know.
>
> Hans
>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
Thanks DJ!
I thought about using 3/4" sq bar and actually ordered some. I just didn't like
the looks of it as much as this design, partly because my spars are 1" wide
on the top and bottom and this fills up the 1" gap between the fittings. I didn't
much care for the gap that the 3/4" square bar left. I'm sure both would
work fine though.
I'm going to sand blast and powsercoat the fittings. Let me know if you (or anyone)
feels that zinc chromate will give me some protection that powdercoating
would not. I can do either!
Thanks again,
jm
----- Original Message -----
From: DJ Vegh
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
I see you use the Skytek struts. Why not insert a solid piece of 2024 aluminum
like I did?
something to consider ( and you probably know this already, but just in case)
is you will want to prime the steel piece with zinc chromate. don't want aluminum
touching steel or you get dissimilar metal corrosion issues.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 11:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech Counselor
check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it.
And I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the
weld enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in a
Negative G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between
the straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative G
situation, but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
I think it looks great. If I understand this, you have weld running lengthwise
on the inside portion of the bend where the bushing and strap merge, so you effectively
have a cross section of weld about the same thickness as the strap
itself, would indicates to me that the strap has the same opportunity to fail
as the weld has. Maybe a spacer between the straps will be handy to prevent over
tightening and distortion of the strut material.
Makes me want to build struts now...
Jim Markle <jim_markle@mindspring.com> wrote:
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech
Counselor check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it. And
I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the weld
enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in a Negative
G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between the
straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative G situation,
but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
---------------------------------
Got holiday prints? See all the ways to get quality prints in your hands ASAP.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
I think powdercoating would be fine just remember to make the tolerances loose
on the fitting because the powdercoat adds quite a bit of thickness.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Thanks DJ!
I thought about using 3/4" sq bar and actually ordered some. I just didn't like
the looks of it as much as this design, partly because my spars are 1" wide
on the top and bottom and this fills up the 1" gap between the fittings. I
didn't much care for the gap that the 3/4" square bar left. I'm sure both would
work fine though.
I'm going to sand blast and powsercoat the fittings. Let me know if you (or
anyone) feels that zinc chromate will give me some protection that powdercoating
would not. I can do either!
Thanks again,
jm
----- Original Message -----
From: DJ Vegh
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
I see you use the Skytek struts. Why not insert a solid piece of 2024 aluminum
like I did?
something to consider ( and you probably know this already, but just in case)
is you will want to prime the steel piece with zinc chromate. don't want aluminum
touching steel or you get dissimilar metal corrosion issues.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 11:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech Counselor
check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it.
And I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the
weld enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in
a Negative G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between
the straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative
G situation, but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
Hey Jim,
I would prefer to see the strap bent completely around the bushing and then welded.
The only thing supporting your wing under negative loading is a weld that has been
ground
down.
You might want to re-think this fitting.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech Counselor
check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it. And
I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the weld
enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in a Negative
G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between the
straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative G situation,
but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
Jim:
Avid Aircraft and Kitfox used powder coating effectively to prevent dissimilar
metal corrosion between 4130 and aluminum at the junctures where the lift strut
structure attached to the alumunim spar. The thickness of the powder coating
ensures that the two different metals will never touch. From my experience, zinc
chromate is thin and doesn't have enough solids-build-up to effectively separate
the two different metals.
Sterling
----- Original Message -----
From: DJ Vegh
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 2:05 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
I think powdercoating would be fine just remember to make the tolerances loose
on the fitting because the powdercoat adds quite a bit of thickness.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Thanks DJ!
I thought about using 3/4" sq bar and actually ordered some. I just didn't
like the looks of it as much as this design, partly because my spars are 1" wide
on the top and bottom and this fills up the 1" gap between the fittings.
I didn't much care for the gap that the 3/4" square bar left. I'm sure both would
work fine though.
I'm going to sand blast and powsercoat the fittings. Let me know if you (or
anyone) feels that zinc chromate will give me some protection that powdercoating
would not. I can do either!
Thanks again,
jm
----- Original Message -----
From: DJ Vegh
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
I see you use the Skytek struts. Why not insert a solid piece of 2024 aluminum
like I did?
something to consider ( and you probably know this already, but just in case)
is you will want to prime the steel piece with zinc chromate. don't want
aluminum touching steel or you get dissimilar metal corrosion issues.
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 11:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech
Counselor check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it.
And I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is
the weld enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece
in a Negative G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between
the straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative
G situation, but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re:Sitka spruce availability |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack T. Textor" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Has anyone on the list done business with Public Lumber? I called and
they seemed very knowledgeable. They thought shipping from Detroit to
Des Moines would be around $180.
Thanks,
Jack
I have not done business with public lumber but if you ordered a couple
of 2x6 x20 foot boards I am sure you could manage 1.6 Piets of so. Have
three long boards shipped to your home for about $425 total.
A Pietenpol is a bird of tradition, enjoy the process!
Bernie himself had nice local wood 2x4 and 2x6 of spuce and western
hemlock, he cut them up himself and built a great Airplane. While the
good stuff is not available locally building 1.6 or so Piets for $400ish
is not all that bad! Get yorrself a thin cerf blade and you could
probably build two!
http://www.publiclumber.com/aasitsprucve.html
As always you must grade the wood yourself in the end. Shipping at 14
feet requires a truck and gets expensive so buy enough for two piets and
share the cost! You must buy the whole length of the board. Seemed like
reasonable people on the phone not afraid to talk airplane use but I
don't think they will "certify" anything. Neither will Aircraft spruce!
You are buying the experince thier mill workers have sorting for the
aircraft industry.
Western Aircraft in Canada sells a premium kit of first class stock
milled to dimension for a Piet as well as planks. They ship everthing
Airmail and I am told it always arrives in good shape. Roughly $120
airfreight.
http://www.seqair.com/skunkworks/Sources/WesternAircraft.html
Since I live in Wisconsin I am sorry to hear McCormick is getting so
pricy!
http://www.mccormicklumber.com/sitka-spruce.htm
May your sawdust eventaully be carried aloft and catch a good tail wind!
Lets all get out to the shop an remove the parts of the wood that don't
look like an airplane!
Matt Formerly posted under steamlaunch(at)softhome.net
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=4295#4295
Message 16
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| Subject: | Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
Hi Guys,
I use solid 4140 steel bar. Check out HYPERLINK
"http://www.cpc-world.com/"http://www.cpc-world.com. Go to page 10 of the
builder=92s photographs, about half way down the page (IMG_1057.jpg).
All fittings yet to be powder coated.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
HYPERLINK "http://www.cpc-world.com/"http://www.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Markle
Sent: Tuesday, 17 January 2006 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Thanks DJ!
I thought about using 3/4" sq bar and actually ordered some. I just didn't
like the looks of it as much as this design, partly because my spars are 1"
wide on the top and bottom and this fills up the 1" gap between the
fittings. I didn't much care for the gap that the 3/4" square bar left.
I'm sure both would work fine though.
I'm going to sand blast and powsercoat the fittings. Let me know if you (or
anyone) feels that zinc chromate will give me some protection that
powdercoating would not. I can do either!
Thanks again,
jm
----- Original Message -----
From: HYPERLINK "mailto:djv@imagedv.com"DJ Vegh
"mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com"pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:44 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
I see you use the Skytek struts. Why not insert a solid piece of 2024
aluminum like I did?
something to consider ( and you probably know this already, but just in
case) is you will want to prime the steel piece with zinc chromate. don't
want aluminum touching steel or you get dissimilar metal corrosion issues.
----- Original Message -----
From: HYPERLINK "mailto:jim_markle@mindspring.com"Jim Markle
"mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com"pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 11:11 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech
Counselor check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it.
And I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the
weld enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in
a Negative G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in
between the straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a
Negative G situation, but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
Not necessarily applying to this thread, but of interest when talking about aluminum
corrosion and prevention there of, has anyone heard of doing your own anodizing?
Looks like it can be done at home as shown here by Ed Barros. Lacking
any one who can do it for him commercially in Argentina he does his own.
Rather creative I say.
http://www.kr2-egb.com.ar/
on the left hand menu scroll down to "ANODIZADO"
perhaps using bablefish translator
http://babel.altavista.com/translate.dyn may help for the ones not fluent in Spanish.
Michael Silvius
Scarborough, Maine
----- Original Message -----
From: Sterling
Jim:
Avid Aircraft and Kitfox used powder coating effectively to prevent dissimilar
metal corrosion between 4130 and aluminum at the junctures where the lift strut
structure attached to the alumunim spar. The thickness of the powder coating
ensures that the two different metals will never touch. From my experience,
zinc chromate is thin and doesn't have enough solids-build-up to effectively
separate the two different metals.
Message 18
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| Subject: | Interested in the Smoke.... |
Members of the list serve:
I am seeking some information as to the set-up and design of smoke systems. I
have no idea what liquid is used to create smoke nor do I know the location of
the liquid port into the exhaust(s) make smoke. I am seeking information for
future reference and extra-curricular activities to gather necessary parts needed.....(here
I come salvage yard...whoopie!)
I have though of finding a windshield wiper fluid container that hold a gallon
of fluid and carefully stow it inside the fuse with a button on the dash and
a filler neck with cap to the outside for ease of filling. For instance, My Honda
Element has a nice compact 1 gallon fluid container with pump which could
be stowed within the plane and controlled with a push-to-talk button located
on the stick. Has this been done before? What are other people using for their
smoke system? Am I just out in left field?
Ken
Fargo, ND
---------------------------------
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting.... |
I did some on some small pieces a couple of years ago. Bought the Alodine from
Aircraft Spruce (see page 310 of their 2004/2005 book) but my experience didn't
yeild as good of results as I had expected. Also, Alodine is VERY toxic and
the waste is a pain to dispose of if you don't want to contaminate soil or your
municiple sewer system. I've read on other sites that Alodine is traceable back
to the source through the sewer system. Don't know if this is true but the
posts I read about 5 months ago stated any city that reprocesses sewer water
to go back into the drinking water supply can determine if Alodine is getting
into the supply and the latent residiual materials can be traced back to the originator.
(Probably a California thing...)
I gave up on Alodine and I have been using Corosion X and Boeshield as a preventative
measure.
Sterling Brooks
5TA6
DO NOT ARCHIVE
----- Original Message -----
From: MICHAEL SILVIUS
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 5:59 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Not necessarily applying to this thread, but of interest when talking about aluminum
corrosion and prevention there of, has anyone heard of doing your own
anodizing? Looks like it can be done at home as shown here by Ed Barros. Lacking
any one who can do it for him commercially in Argentina he does his own.
Rather creative I say.
http://www.kr2-egb.com.ar/
on the left hand menu scroll down to "ANODIZADO"
perhaps using bablefish translator
http://babel.altavista.com/translate.dyn may help for the ones not fluent in Spanish.
Michael Silvius
Scarborough, Maine
----- Original Message -----
From: Sterling
Jim:
Avid Aircraft and Kitfox used powder coating effectively to prevent dissimilar
metal corrosion between 4130 and aluminum at the junctures where the lift
strut structure attached to the alumunim spar. The thickness of the powder coating
ensures that the two different metals will never touch. From my experience,
zinc chromate is thin and doesn't have enough solids-build-up to effectively
separate the two different metals.
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Interested in the Smoke.... |
Chuck and Mike are the experts and they can provide pictures. Chuck uses Baby Oil
purchased at Walmart. Chuck, by the way, is one of the best smelling Aircamper
pilots I have ever met.
----- Original Message -----
From: Kenneth M. Heide
To: Pietenpol
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 6:29 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Interested in the Smoke....
Members of the list serve:
I am seeking some information as to the set-up and design of smoke systems. I
have no idea what liquid is used to create smoke nor do I know the location of
the liquid port into the exhaust(s) make smoke. I am seeking information for
future reference and extra-curricular activities to gather necessary parts needed.....(here
I come salvage yard...whoopie!)
I have though of finding a windshield wiper fluid container that hold a gallon
of fluid and carefully stow it inside the fuse with a button on the dash and
a filler neck with cap to the outside for ease of filling. For instance, My Honda
Element has a nice compact 1 gallon fluid container with pump which could
be stowed within the plane and controlled with a push-to-talk button located
on the stick. Has this been done before? What are other people using for their
smoke system? Am I just out in left field?
Ken
Fargo, ND
Ring in the New Year with Photo Calendars. Add photos, events, holidays, whatever.
Message 21
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| Subject: | Ribstitching - Don't Do What I Did |
Fellow Piet Builders
I very carefully measured the spacing for the ribstitches on my wings, allowing
the proper distance between stitches in the propwash area and outside the propwash
area. Once everything was assembled I discovered that in the area outside
the propwash, there is a row of stitches are right along the rear face of the
rear spar. They are right where they will be chafed by the aileron cables,
and undoubtedly worn through. This probably would not pose any major structural
harm to the airfoil, but I am going to add stitches through the finished wing
fabric which will not look all that nice. Be aware of this issue when you
are covering your wings.
Bob Humbert
N491RH
Battle Creek, MI.
Fellow Piet Builders
I very carefully measured the spacingforthe ribstitches on my wings, allowing the
proper distance between stitches in the propwash area and outside the propwash
area. Once everything was assembled I discovered that in the area outside
the propwash,there is a row ofstitches are right along the rear face of the rear
spar. They are right where they will be chafed by the aileron cables, and undoubtedly
worn through. This probably would not pose any major structural harm
to the airfoil, but I am going to add stitches through the finished wing fabric
which will not look all that nice. Be aware of this issue when you are covering
your wings.
Bob Humbert
N491RH
Battle Creek, MI.
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Interested in the Smoke.... |
In a message dated 1/16/2006 6:31:36 PM Central Standard Time,
kmheidecpo@yahoo.com writes:
I am seeking some information as to the set-up and design of smoke systems. I
have no idea what liquid is used to create smoke nor do I know the location
of the liquid port into the exhaust(s) make smoke. I am seeking information for
future reference and extra-curricular activities to gather necessary parts
needed.....(here I come salvage yard...whoopie!)
I have though of finding a windshield wiper fluid container that hold a
gallon of fluid and carefully stow it inside the fuse with a button on the dash
and
a filler neck with cap to the outside for ease of filling. For instance, My
Honda Element has a nice compact 1 gallon fluid container with pump which could
be stowed within the plane and controlled with a push-to-talk button located
on the stick. Has this been done before? What are other people using for their
smoke system? Am I just out in left field?
Ken
Fargo, ND
Ken,
Ya wanna talk about smoke ?? Lets talk about smoke !!
My smoke system consists of an after-market windshield washer pump and tank,
plumbing to each exhaust pipe, and wiring to the switch on the power lever. I
isolated / mounted the tank on the upper left motor mount tubing, with a
couple layers of rubber strap. I routed the clear tubing to a Tee fitting secured
in rubber, to the engine mount, then used 1/8" brass tubing to each of the
fittings in the exhaust pipes. I laid out the route of the tubing, marked the
pipes, and removed both exhaust pipes. I cut a 1/8" pipe coupler in half,
radiused each half to the radius of the pipe, and oxy / accy welded them to
the aft pipe of each side. After welded, I drilled one #60 hole through the
exhaust pipes. I placed these holes toward the bottom edge of the fittings,
theorizing that if oil would lay in there it would gum up. The switch is a push
on / push off button, that is mounted right to the throttle handle. This
location allows me to work the smoke without taking my hand off the throttle.
I
originally thought it would only smoke good at full power, but came to find I
don't
need much over 1/4 throttle to Smoke 'Em Up !! I can smoke 'em while
taxiing, without any problem !! My exhaust pipes point down and away from the
fuselage, and even when all the oil doesn't vaporize, the fuselage hardly gets
anything on it. I have a couple of squawks on the system, that I have taken care
of.
1.) I mounted the tank at about the same level as the fittings on the
exhaust pipes, and it always dribbles out the pipes, with a little bit of smoke
as a
result. Over a period of a couple of hours, it will drain the tank, but I
usually 'Smoke em up' before that happens.
2.) When I ran the tank empty, and refill it, the pump would cavitate
because of the way the line ran from the bottom of the tank to the pump, and I
would always have to prime the pump, by blowing in the top of the tank. I got
some strange looks from folks, while I performed this operation !!
3.) The tank was too small. It only was big enough to do about 3 smoke
runs. I would like to put about a 5 gallon bucket up there on the firewall, but
I don't have enough room !!
4.) I had to remove the top cowling to re-fill the tank. I'm building a
new tank out of fiberglass / West System resin, with a fill tube out to the
right side of the cowling. I'll mount it lower on the firewall. This will take
care of all the squawks.
5.) I now have been using the new smoke tank, but I have a small leak in
the tank. I used West Systems resin for the fiberglass tank, and evidently I
didn't get the seam sealed up good enough. I've never had that problem when I
used polyester resin, but it kicks very quickly. The West System gives some
time, but it is also quite a bit more expensive. After the warnings about the
stuff catching on fire, I'll be repairing the tank before my next flight.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 23
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| Subject: | Wing spar questions |
All,
Even after reading the archives I would really appreciate you input on this one.
I have built my ribs for the 1" spars. For strength I thought 1" would be
best. Was getting ready to order wood for the spars and the supplier is out of
2" stock in 6" width. Also looked closer at Vi's 3 piece wing, I'm wondering
if I should just go with 3/4 ". Another thought would be to use 3/4 " and sandwich
it with 1/8 ply on each side. I'm driving myself nuts. Again, thanks
for your thoughts!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
Message 24
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| Subject: | Redesign of..... upper lift strut fitting.... |
Ok, so I did rethink this fitting! Thanks to all for the great help with thinking
this through.
Attached is what I ended up with. (I made the pictures as small as possible to
avoid any inconvenience to the bandwidth challenged....)
The wings will give out long before this fitting will!
Jim in Plano.....
----- Original Message -----
From: gcardinal
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 2:30 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Hey Jim,
I would prefer to see the strap bent completely around the bushing and then welded.
The only thing supporting your wing under negative loading is a weld that has
been ground
down.
You might want to re-think this fitting.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: Jim Markle
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 12:11 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Suggestions on upper lift strut fitting....
Here's a pic of my upper lift strut fitting. I'm going to have my Tech Counselor
check it but wondered if anyone on the list might help me out....
The inner bushing is 5/16ID X 1/2"OD with a .090 strap wrapped around it.
And I welded where the inner bushing contacts the strap.
My question is: Although this is plenty for a positive G wing load, is the
weld enough to keep the strap piece connected to the inner bushing piece in a
Negative G load? I've been thinking about welding a piece of 090 in between
the straps, up against the bushing to keep it in place in case of a Negative G
situation, but wonder if it's worth the trouble.
Suggestions?
Jim in Plano
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