Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:05 AM - Re: transportability (harvey rule)
2. 04:38 AM - Re: any Piets in middle TN? (harvey rule)
3. 05:00 AM - Re: Wing spar questions (gcardinal)
4. 05:05 AM - Re: Wing spar questions (Phillips, Jack)
5. 05:13 AM - spar idea--sketch attached (Michael D Cuy)
6. 05:18 AM - Re: spar idea--sketch attached (Phillips, Jack)
7. 06:56 AM - Re: spar idea--sketch attached (Bill Church)
8. 07:07 AM - Spuce (Michael D Cuy)
9. 07:23 AM - Re: Wing spar questionsWing spar questions (Roman Bukolt)
10. 07:23 AM - BHP and the Corvair crank (Oscar Zuniga)
11. 07:36 AM - Re: spar idea--sketch attached (Jack T. Textor)
12. 07:53 AM - Re: BHP and the Corvair crank (Hans Vander Voort)
13. 08:04 AM - Re: Excellent Quality R/C Model Piet (M&M Stanley)
14. 08:56 AM - Re: spar idea--sketch attached (Bill Church)
15. 10:36 AM - Re: Wing spar questions (Bill Church)
16. 11:03 AM - Re: BHP and the Corvair crank (tmbrant1@netzero.com)
17. 03:43 PM - Re: Wing spar questions (Rcaprd@aol.com)
18. 04:03 PM - Re: Wing spar questions (Rcaprd@aol.com)
19. 04:31 PM - Re: BHP and the Corvair crank (Gene Beenenga)
20. 05:14 PM - Re: Wing spar questions (Jack T. Textor)
21. 06:05 PM - Re: Wing spar questions (Jack T. Textor)
22. 07:52 PM - Re: Wing spar questions (Mike Whaley)
23. 09:12 PM - Re: Wing spar questions (Rcaprd@aol.com)
24. 10:09 PM - Re: Wing spar questions (Mike Luther)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: transportability |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: harvey rule <harvey.rule@bell.ca>
No you have two pieces which are on either side of the centre piece and
a piece in the middle ,all separate.In the centre section you can either
cut a piece out in order to get in or in my case I built a thing called
a flop door or as my AME likes to call it ,a pilot eggress door.
"Scott S." wrote:
>
> Upon covering the 3-piece wing, do you essentially end up with a one
> piece wing? I'm trying to get a handle on transportability...not that
> you could tow it to the airport and attach the wings every time you
> wanted to fly; I know it's more involved than that. Just seems it
> would be convenient to have detachable wings, even if it took 3-4
> hours to attach them. It would open up some options to a guy like me
> who's not liking the idea of $150 (or more!) hangar fees every
> month, not to mention the lengthy waiting list for hangar space at my
> local airport.
>
> Appreciate you guys indulging my ignorance on this stuff. :-)
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: any Piets in middle TN? |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: harvey rule <harvey.rule@bell.ca>
I have removed my home computor from any and all lists so there won't or
shouldn't be any bounced messages in the future.I apologise for any
inconvienance this has caused in the past.My home computor doesn't have
the capacity for e-mails that my work computor has and all it takes is
for a couple of my friends or relatives to send a letter with an
attachment and it fills the e-mail box up real fast.I will still be on
the Piet list at work to keep in touch with all this fantastic
info!Thanks.
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Wing spar questions |
3/4" spars are solid; not routed.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: Catdesign
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
Why not use 3/4 inch spars and add a 1x1/8 spruce to the front and back to make
up an I-beam and make the thickness 1 inch. I would think fully facing the
spars with ply would be to much of a weight penalty.
Likewise, does anyone know if the 3/4" spars BHP used were routed?
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack T. Textor
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
All,
Even after reading the archives I would really appreciate you input on this
one. I have built my ribs for the 1" spars. For strength I thought 1" would
be best. Was getting ready to order wood for the spars and the supplier is out
of 2" stock in 6" width. Also looked closer at Vi's 3 piece wing, I'm wondering
if I should just go with 3/4 ". Another thought would be to use 3/4 " and
sandwich it with 1/8 ply on each side. I'm driving myself nuts. Again, thanks
for your thoughts!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
Message 4
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Subject: | Wing spar questions |
Both my spars are =BE". I routed my rear spars down to =BD", per BHP. Saved 3.89
lbs in Sitka Spruce - would save more weight in Douglas Fir.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of gcardinal
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
3/4" spars are solid; not routed.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: Catdesign <mailto:catdesign@intergate.com>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 12:53 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
Why not use 3/4 inch spars and add a 1x1/8 spruce to the front and back to make
up an I-beam and make the thickness 1 inch. I would think fully facing the
spars with ply would be to much of a weight penalty.
Likewise, does anyone know if the 3/4" spars BHP used were routed?
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Jack T. Textor <mailto:jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 6:46 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
All,
Even after reading the archives I would really appreciate you input on this one.
I have built my ribs for the 1" spars. For strength I thought 1" would be
best. Was getting ready to order wood for the spars and the supplier is out
of 2" stock in 6" width. Also looked closer at Vi's 3 piece wing, I'm wondering
if I should just go with 3/4 ". Another thought would be to use 3/4 " and
sandwich it with 1/8 ply on each side. I'm driving myself nuts. Again, thanks
for your thoughts!
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
Palmer Group
515-225-7000
www.thepalmergroup.com
Message 5
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Subject: | spar idea--sketch attached |
This is how I did the spar on my Air Camper.
Mike C.
Message 6
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Subject: | spar idea--sketch attached |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
I think I would do the same, if I were to do it again, Mike
Jack Phillips
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
D Cuy
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 8:13 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spar idea--sketch attached
This is how I did the spar on my Air Camper.
Mike C.
Message 7
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Subject: | spar idea--sketch attached |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Bill Church" <eng@canadianrogers.com>
Mike,
In your sketch of how you would do it next time, you indicate that you
would use "SPUCE".
What is that stuff, and where do you get it?
Just kidding. :)
Do not archive
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
D Cuy
Sent: January 18, 2006 8:31 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spar idea--sketch attached
This is how I did the spar on my Air Camper.
Mike C.
Message 8
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Bill-- well you see spuce is a very rare aircraft quality wood that is
non-pirate friendly.
You see it doesn't contain any "Arrrrrghs Matey" !!!!
Good thing my building skills are not surpassed by my spelling skills !
Mike C.
do not archive !
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Wing spar questionsWing spar questions |
I purchased my (7) 1 x 6 x 20ft planks at McCormick Lumber with the help of Bill
Rewey, known expert Pietenpol builder. We ran the planks through the planer
at McCormick, just a light skin cut and ended up with very nice 1" thk. spar
quality planks. Enough wood to build the whole plane. I cut all my rib strips,
fuse longerons etc. on a 14"Delta bandsaw. I'm using West products epoxy
throughout. A 1 qt. kit should be adequate to build the whole plane. Plywood gussets
stapled on with an office paper stapler. Works on both 1/16" and 1/8"
birch plywood. just press down. No need to "bang" it. A lot faster and easier
than a million tiny brads.
Message 10
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Subject: | BHP and the Corvair crank |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Just thought I'd throw in a little levity for the day. I was trying to
imagine how Mr. Pietenpol would take the news if, say, General Motors came
out with a notice that the crankshaft in a Corvair should be nitrided to
prevent fatigue-induced cracks. So here's where my mind went (thinking back
to the old Flying & Glider Manuals).
"Took an empty tractor grease pail and gave it a good cleaning, then put my
Corvair crankshaft in and packed it in real full all around with cow manure
from the feed-lot. Figured it would be pretty rich in nitrogen from the
feed and clover the cows been eating. Put the lid on the drum, filled 'er
with air from my compressor, and set 'er in the sun for a couple of days to
let the nitrogen soak into the crankshaft. Other than a bit of ripeness
when I opened the pail to retrieve the crank, everything was fine and I
cleaned the crank, buttoned 'er back up and went flying. Don't believe GM
would approve of the cow flop treatment, but I'm flying just the same."
Back to repairs on NX41CC ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 11
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Subject: | spar idea--sketch attached |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Jack T. Textor" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Mike, you did the 3 piece wing, correct? Did increasing the spar to 1"
create any problems you can recall?
Thanks,
Jack
Jack Textor
Vice President
This is how I did the spar on my Air Camper.
Mike C.
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: BHP and the Corvair crank |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Hans Vander Voort <hans.vander.voort@alfalaval.com>
Thanks Oscar I needed that.
I have now about 25 hours on my Corvair.
When I rebuild it I decided not go with a nitrided crank, on advice of many
experts, the non-nitrided was good enough.
Goes to show you "good enough" is a term that should not be used in
Aircraft building.
So, now I am out hunting for Corvair parts again.
Might already have located a rebuildable engine and will pick it up this
weekend.
I will use the crank after getting it up to AD compliance.
Now all I need is that grease pail and some cow manure.....:-)
Hans
"Oscar Zuniga"
<taildrags@hotmai
l.com> To
Sent by: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
owner-pietenpol-l cc
ist-server@matron
ics.com Subject
Pietenpol-List: BHP and the Corvair
crank
01/18/2006 09:23
AM
Please respond to
pietenpol-list@ma
tronics.com
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
Just thought I'd throw in a little levity for the day. I was trying to
imagine how Mr. Pietenpol would take the news if, say, General Motors came
out with a notice that the crankshaft in a Corvair should be nitrided to
prevent fatigue-induced cracks. So here's where my mind went (thinking
back
to the old Flying & Glider Manuals).
"Took an empty tractor grease pail and gave it a good cleaning, then put my
Corvair crankshaft in and packed it in real full all around with cow manure
from the feed-lot. Figured it would be pretty rich in nitrogen from the
feed and clover the cows been eating. Put the lid on the drum, filled 'er
with air from my compressor, and set 'er in the sun for a couple of days to
let the nitrogen soak into the crankshaft. Other than a bit of ripeness
when I opened the pail to retrieve the crank, everything was fine and I
cleaned the crank, buttoned 'er back up and went flying. Don't believe GM
would approve of the cow flop treatment, but I'm flying just the same."
Back to repairs on NX41CC ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Excellent Quality R/C Model Piet |
Hi Wayne & DJ,
Have to agree, that is one fantastic model of a Piet ! Excellent work !. My
little R/C model Piet now has 198 flights on it. Two more flights for the
big 200!
Big or small, Piets are great !
Mark S
Japan
Rudder woodwork, 100% complete, Fin 85%, Elevators, 20% ,Main wing ribs,
100%
Do not archive
From: DJ Vegh
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Pietenpol List: Excellent Quality R/C Model
Piet
wow... just looked at the thread an noticed he referenced my website.
DJ
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=462847
Message 14
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Subject: | spar idea--sketch attached |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Bill Church" <eng@canadianrogers.com>
This is strange.
Out of curiosity, I just checked Aircraft Spruce and Wicks for prices,
to compare the cost of a built-up spar like your sketch, as opposed to a
solid 3/4" spar. And there are savings of 25% to 35% to be had ... If
you opt for the SOLID spar!
Here's what I found:
(These prices don't include the price premium for long lengths - they
are just for comparison.)
Wicks:
3/4" x 4 3/4" = $7.27/ft
1/2" x 4 3/4" = $8.22/ft (NOTE: this is 13% MORE than the 3/4" piece)
1/4" x 3/4" = $0.40/ft
So the built-up spar = 8.22 + 4 x (0.40) = $9.82/ft
(solid 1" x 4 3/4" = $9.07/ft)
Aircraft Spruce:
3/4" x 4 3/4" = $6.70/ft
1/2" x 4 3/4" = $6.70/ft (NOTE:
1/4" x 3/4" = $0.43/ft
So the built-up spar = 6.70 + 4 x (0.43) = $8.42/ft
(solid 1" x 4 3/4" = $8.35/ft)
This doesn't seem to make sense.
Then you have to add the cost of the epoxy + the time to build-up the
spars.
I figured it would have to be cheaper to build up a spar, but I guess
not.
Of course, there are other routes to take other than buying pre-cut
pieces from Wicks or AS&S, that may prove to be cheaper, but this is
surprising.
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
D Cuy
Sent: January 18, 2006 8:31 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: spar idea--sketch attached
This is how I did the spar on my Air Camper.
Mike C.
Message 15
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Subject: | Wing spar questions |
If you had asked me yesterday, I would have said that the 3/4" spars are
solid, not routed.
But I just looked at the plans for the 3-piece wing and it only shows
the spar thickness as 3/4" - yet it also gives the dimensions for
routing.
I assume that I read somewhere that the 3/4" spar is to be solid, not
routed, but I don't see it on the plans anywhere. Did I miss something?
If the 3/4" spar should not be routed, there really shouldn't be
information on where to rout the spars on a drawing that only refers to
a 3/4" spar, right?
Anyone out there that has a definitive answer out there?
Bill
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
gcardinal
Sent: January 18, 2006 8:15 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
3/4" spars are solid; not routed.
Greg Cardinal
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: BHP and the Corvair crank |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "tmbrant1@netzero.com" <tmbrant1@netzero.net>
I've got an extra crank if someone needs one. Private email me.
Tom B.
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Wing spar questions |
In a message dated 1/18/2006 12:55:05 AM Central Standard Time,
catdesign@intergate.com writes:
Why not use 3/4 inch spars and add a 1x1/8 spruce to the front and back to
make up an I-beam and make the thickness 1 inch.
I used 1/2" X 4 3/4" X 1/8" plywood shims on the fwd & aft face of the spar,
at each rib location. I used T88 on everything.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Wing spar questions |
In a message dated 1/18/2006 12:37:43 PM Central Standard Time,
eng@canadianrogers.com writes:
Anyone out there that has a definitive answer out there?
I don't know if there is a difinitive answer, because it's been done so many
different ways.
I used 3/4" Douglas Fir spars, un-routed. The inboard ribs are Spruce, and
all others are Cedar.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: BHP and the Corvair crank |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Gene Beenenga <kgbunltd@earthlink.net>
hey Tom, what is the part no. on it and how much are you asking? Gene
-----Original Message-----
>From: "tmbrant1@netzero.com" <tmbrant1@netzero.net>
>Sent: Jan 18, 2006 1:01 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: BHP and the Corvair crank
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "tmbrant1@netzero.com" <tmbrant1@netzero.net>
>
>I've got an extra crank if someone needs one. Private email me.
>
>Tom B.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Wing spar questions |
Gene,
I talked with Pawnee today. They quoted me 99 to$1.10 per lf for 1x6 (actual size
3/4x51/2) clear cedar. Wow, to good to be true. He did say it was NOT vertical
grain. I'm not sure that is the way to go. Next time I drive by I might
stop for a look though. Will let all know how it looks.
Jack
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of Gene Beenenga
Sent: Tue 1/17/2006 7:31 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Gene Beenenga <kgbunltd@earthlink.net>
Pawnee Lumber company in, where else, Pawnee, Illinois....sells "aircraft grade
lumber". since i did not need to purchase spars, i have not ideas as to their
prices. I do know, however, that some "aircraft kit builder in Missouri", buys
all of his lumber from these guys. Here is their phone number, best of results...
217.625-2771, "Mean" Gene, GN-1, NX5893 (in stages of construction, with
Corvair power, wing and fuselage on gear)
-----Original Message-----
>From: "Jack T. Textor" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
>Sent: Jan 17, 2006 2:59 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
>
>Well Dick, as I said, I'm driving myself nuts. I planned to buy rough 2x6x16's
from Public Lumber in Detroit at $5.80 LF. They are out of that and their price
on 2x8x16's jumps to $10.27. I have looked at the selection at McCormick's
and didn't see anything I would be happy with for spars. I appreciate the
lead on Midwest, I will call them. After comments I received off-line I'm leaning
towards =BE" stock for the spars. Thanks again!
>
>Jack
>
>
>________________________________
>
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick Navratil
>Sent: Tuesday, January 17, 2006 2:28 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
>
>
>I don't remember who you were going to order thru so lets review all options.
3/4 with ply caps strips would be fine, but a lot of work.
>
>McCormack in Madison should have full cut 1x6 pieces in stock.
>
>Wicks Aircraft in Highland, Il. (near St. Louis) should have it
>
>Aircraft Spruce, of course.
>
>Wayne at Midwest Marine Plywood in Eagan, Mn. should have full cut 2x6 sections.
>
>Two of those places are within 2 1/2 hours drive of you.
>
>Is there a reason you spec 2"x? The wood I have purchased in the past from McCormack
has been over 1" rough cut and I have gotten 7/8 or better finished. The
2"x that I have gotten from Midwest Marine Plywood have been 2 1/16" or better.
It's a lot of work milling it down.
>
>Dick N.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>
> From: Jack T. Textor <mailto:jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
>
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>
> Sent: Monday, January 16, 2006 8:46 PM
>
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
>
>
>
> All,
>
> Even after reading the archives I would really appreciate you input on
this one. I have built my ribs for the 1" spars. For strength I thought 1" would
be best. Was getting ready to order wood for the spars and the supplier
is out of 2" stock in 6" width. Also looked closer at Vi's 3 piece wing, I'm
wondering if I should just go with 3/4 ". Another thought would be to use 3/4
" and sandwich it with 1/8 ply on each side. I'm driving myself nuts. Again,
thanks for your thoughts!
>
> Jack
>
>
>
> Jack Textor
>
> Vice President
>
> Palmer Group
>
> 515-225-7000
>
> www.thepalmergroup.com
>
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Message 21
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Subject: | Wing spar questions |
I'm leaning that direction Chuck.
Why not use 3/4 inch spars and add a 1x1/8 spruce to the front and back to make
up an I-beam and make the thickness 1 inch.
I used 1/2" X 4 3/4" X 1/8" plywood shims on the fwd & aft face of the spar, at
each rib location. I used T88 on everything.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 22
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Subject: | Wing spar questions |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Mike Whaley" <MerlinFAC@cfl.rr.com>
I know that weight savings is a very good thing with any plane, but it seems
to me like routing the spars down is just a bad idea with a potential to
cause some real problems. With a routed spar, even if you don't affect the
vertical bending strength, you do lose a good deal of the available strength
in the fore-aft direction, and this could... potentially... reduce the
tortional rigidity of the wing, and contribute to flutter. I know it's been
done for a long time and I don't think it's caused tons of problems, but I
do know of some planes in which routed spars are no longer recommended due
to the potential risk to get a relatively tiny weight reduction. For no more
than a 5 lbs. savings it seems like a bad place to reduce the strength of
your airframe. Seems like you'd be better off saving weight by, say, cutting
lightening holes in the ply on the sides of the fuselage.
That being said, I know that many folks have done it with no problems... not
suggesting anyone should be afraid of a Piet that's got routed spars.
-Mike
Mike Whaley merlin@ov-10bronco.net
Webmaster, OV-10 Bronco Association
http://www.ov-10bronco.net/
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jack T. Textor" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 18, 2006 9:04 PM
Subject: [piet] RE: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
I'm leaning that direction Chuck.
Why not use 3/4 inch spars and add a 1x1/8 spruce to the front and back to
make up an I-beam and make the thickness 1 inch.
I used 1/2" X 4 3/4" X 1/8" plywood shims on the fwd & aft face of the spar,
at each rib location. I used T88 on everything.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: Wing spar questions |
In a message dated 1/18/2006 7:16:10 PM Central Standard Time,
jtextor@thepalmergroup.com writes:
He did say it was NOT vertical grain.
Spars must be 1/4 sawn, or they warp.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Wing spar questions |
Hi guys,
I had to remember where I came up with the idea I used on my spars. I
found the information in the Pietenpol Manual in note 10 at the top of
page 66. It says to use 1/8 inch plywood reinforcing plates on each
side of the spar wherever fittings or ribs are located. In this case it
would be for a solid 3/4 inch spar.
Hope this info helps anyone.
Mike Luther
Bill Church wrote:
> If you had asked me yesterday, I would have said that the 3/4" spars
> are solid, not routed.
> But I just looked at the plans for the 3-piece wing and it only shows
> the spar thickness as 3/4" - yet it also gives the dimensions for
> routing.
> I assume that I read somewhere that the 3/4" spar is to be solid, not
> routed, but I don't see it on the plans anywhere. Did I miss
> something? If the 3/4" spar should not be routed, there really
> shouldn't be information on where to rout the spars on a drawing that
> only refers to a 3/4" spar, right?
> Anyone out there that has a definitive answer out there?
> Bill
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> gcardinal
> Sent: January 18, 2006 8:15 AM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Wing spar questions
>
> 3/4" spars are solid; not routed. Greg Cardinal
>
>
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