Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:06 AM - Re: fuel tank sealer (Jack T. Textor)
2. 04:41 AM - (Dave Esslinger)
3. 10:27 AM - Re: (Jim Ash)
4. 10:27 AM - Re: fuel tank sealer (TRichmo9@aol.com)
5. 10:27 AM - Re: (Jim Markle)
6. 10:27 AM - Re: fuel tank sealer. (TRichmo9@aol.com)
7. 10:27 AM - Re: (Rick Holland)
8. 10:27 AM - Re: fuel tank sealer. (Rick Holland)
9. 12:43 PM - Pietenpol - Lindbergh Connection? (TBYH@aol.com)
10. 01:46 PM - Re: (Dave Esslinger)
11. 02:38 PM - Re: (walt evans)
12. 04:19 PM - Re: Fw: Steel tube fuselage (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
13. 04:21 PM - Re: Fw: Steel tube fuselage (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
14. 05:59 PM - paint and graphics (Oscar Zuniga)
15. 06:04 PM - (Doyle Combs)
16. 06:20 PM - evening (Ben Ramler)
17. 06:29 PM - Re: fuel tank sealer. (Dick Navratil)
18. 06:49 PM - Re: evening (TRichmo9@AOL.COM)
19. 08:17 PM - Re: evening (Jim Markle)
20. 09:31 PM - Re: (Clif Dawson)
21. 10:08 PM - Cad Layout (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | fuel tank sealer |
Dick,
You will find a lot of discussion on this topic in the RV list. It is not recommended
by Van's Aircraft. When I built my RV8 tanks I utilized Pro-Seal on the
riveted joints, it's great stuff but a bear to work with. I plan to use it
on my Piet tank when I get to it.
Jack Textor
www.textors.com
Since my plane is down for the winter I am doing some maint and upgrades. One
of the items on my checklist was to remove the fuel tank and rinse out. Doing
this I got a big suprise. I had used a fuel tank sealant when I built the tank
out of aluminum. I used a boreoscope to check the inside of the tank and all
is holding up well, but, when I rinsed out the tank some good sized pieces
of sealant washed out. This didn't come from the ends where I had sealed but
from where the liquid had dribbled on the sides when I poured it into the tank.
Many of the pieces of debris could easily have clogged the fuel line.
A couple of major points here. Is a tank sealant relly a good idea? I havent
resolved that for myself yet, but I'm thinking no at this point. In order to
prevent any future problems, I tapped out the 1/4" fuel bushing to 3/8" and ordered
a finger strainer for inside the tank. The strainer is approx 2" high.
When building a new tank it might be good to install that strainer to start.
Having said that, it is an item that also should be removed and cleaned with each
annual.
Dick N.
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dave Esslinger" <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
Hello everyone, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking for a few years.
I have a Piet project sitting in my shop that has been on the shelf for
quite some time due to time constraints (running a business, remodeling a
house, keeping up with family etc.) I wanted to share something with you
all. I've been around construction, cabinet/furniture making, restored cars
and generally working with my hands for over 40 years and in the past year I
came up with an idea so simple, yet so helpful I can't believe I haven't
heard of it before. I was making metal fittings for my Piet, laying out the
pieces on the metal with a marking pen, or whatever, then cutting them out.
I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -
thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.
SOLUTION:
-Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole layout
and anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CAD
programs will work).
-Print the drawing to full scale.
-Cut the drawing to the rough size.
-Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good one
and its sold in most hardware stores.
-Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.
-When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquer
thinner and it virtually falls off.
I use the same method to make small precise wooden parts. Works great.
Now I can't imagine making parts any other way. The computer allows you to
double check your layout before you put it on the metal. It also gives you
the minimum line weight so threes no guesswork involved. If you're not
already using a CAD program it would be well worth the time to learn the
basics. You'll recoup the time over and over again.
As I said, I've been lurking on the list for quite a while and I've gotten
so much from everyone I thought I'd give something back. Hope this helps
somebody out there, I know it's really improved the quality of the parts
I've made.
Dave
Remember
The Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic was built by Professionals. Keep
building.
--
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
How did you resolve the accuracy of transferring your computer image to print?
How accurate is it and how accurate do you need it? I've had difficulties with
the printing process altering the drawing and ending up with odd dimensions on
at least one axis.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dave Esslinger <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>Sent: Feb 4, 2006 7:25 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List:
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dave Esslinger" <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>
>Hello everyone, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking for a few years.
>I have a Piet project sitting in my shop that has been on the shelf for
>quite some time due to time constraints (running a business, remodeling a
>house, keeping up with family etc.) I wanted to share something with you
>all. I've been around construction, cabinet/furniture making, restored cars
>and generally working with my hands for over 40 years and in the past year I
>came up with an idea so simple, yet so helpful I can't believe I haven't
>heard of it before. I was making metal fittings for my Piet, laying out the
>pieces on the metal with a marking pen, or whatever, then cutting them out.
>I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -
>thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.
>SOLUTION:
>-Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole layout
>and anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CAD
>programs will work).
>-Print the drawing to full scale.
>-Cut the drawing to the rough size.
>-Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good one
>and its sold in most hardware stores.
>-Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.
>-When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquer
>thinner and it virtually falls off.
>
>I use the same method to make small precise wooden parts. Works great.
>Now I can't imagine making parts any other way. The computer allows you to
>double check your layout before you put it on the metal. It also gives you
>the minimum line weight so threes no guesswork involved. If you're not
>already using a CAD program it would be well worth the time to learn the
>basics. You'll recoup the time over and over again.
>
>As I said, I've been lurking on the list for quite a while and I've gotten
>so much from everyone I thought I'd give something back. Hope this helps
>somebody out there, I know it's really improved the quality of the parts
>I've made.
>Dave
>Remember
>The Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic was built by Professionals. Keep
>building.
>
>--
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank sealer |
i have a bd4 and fuel sealant is a big problem with the bd, we have found
that 1422 proseal is the sealant you should use . it the same sealant used on
the md80 and you never have problems with it
tom
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Great idea, Dave.
I use spray adhesives a lot. Primarily 3M 77. I like your idea about
removing stuff with lacquer thinner. I've found that using a heat gun to
remove the paper makes the little bit of leftoever adhesive a lot easier to
clean up with the lacquer thinner. Not quite as messy.
I also use grid paper to layout the part (using a circle template, straight
edge, compass, etc) then stick that right to the metal. In fact, I'm
redesigning my landing gear and attached is an example (small file size) of
how the grid paper works out. Now all I have to do is straighten out the
lines a bit and I have templates. I spent nearly 15 years as a design
draftsman but just haven't seemed to enjoy much success with the drawing
programs like AutoCad. (Maybe because I'm too lazy to learn one, but I'll
bet there are some good ones out there nowadays.)
Neat idea, thanks!
Jim in Plano TX
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Esslinger" <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 6:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dave Esslinger"
> <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>
> Hello everyone, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking for a few
> years.
> I have a Piet project sitting in my shop that has been on the shelf for
> quite some time due to time constraints (running a business, remodeling a
> house, keeping up with family etc.) I wanted to share something with you
> all. I've been around construction, cabinet/furniture making, restored
> cars
> and generally working with my hands for over 40 years and in the past year
> I
> came up with an idea so simple, yet so helpful I can't believe I haven't
> heard of it before. I was making metal fittings for my Piet, laying out
> the
> pieces on the metal with a marking pen, or whatever, then cutting them
> out.
> I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -
> thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.
> SOLUTION:
> -Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole
> layout
> and anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CAD
> programs will work).
> -Print the drawing to full scale.
> -Cut the drawing to the rough size.
> -Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good
> one
> and its sold in most hardware stores.
> -Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.
> -When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquer
> thinner and it virtually falls off.
>
> I use the same method to make small precise wooden parts. Works great.
> Now I can't imagine making parts any other way. The computer allows you to
> double check your layout before you put it on the metal. It also gives you
> the minimum line weight so threes no guesswork involved. If you're not
> already using a CAD program it would be well worth the time to learn the
> basics. You'll recoup the time over and over again.
>
> As I said, I've been lurking on the list for quite a while and I've gotten
> so much from everyone I thought I'd give something back. Hope this helps
> somebody out there, I know it's really improved the quality of the parts
> I've made.
> Dave
> Remember
> The Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic was built by Professionals.
> Keep
> building.
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank sealer. |
oh i almost forgot never use sloshing compound it is always a mess it breaks
down in gasoline tom
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Dave
Great idea. Was talking to a Piet builder that took that one step further,
print the parts out on two part adhesive backed printing paper (like mailing
label print paper). Once someone has all the Piet metal parts in CAD if they
wanted to they could post the cad file for any Piet builder to use.
Also, for anyone that is looking for inexpensive cad software I found one or
two versions old copies of TurboCad for $5 to $10 on eBay. Nothing like
AutoCad but far more than we need for simple 2D stuff.
>
>
> I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -
> thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.
> SOLUTION:
> -Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole
> layout
> and anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CAD
> programs will work).
> -Print the drawing to full scale.
> -Cut the drawing to the rough size.
> -Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good
> one
> and its sold in most hardware stores.
> -Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.
> -When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquer
> thinner and it virtually falls off.
>
>
--
Rick Holland
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank sealer. |
Sounds like the best way to go, if you can weld aluminum, or know someone
that can, is to just do a welded tank and avoid the sealer problem all
together. Or am I missing something?
On 2/4/06, Gary Gower <ggower_99@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> Hello Dick,
>
> Here in our factory, my brother Larry is a good welder, so as we fly and
> build airplanes, once in a while we get some weld jobs for friends
> pilots...
>
> A friend brought once an alu wing tank from a Kitfox to see if can be
> fixed, the idea of the owner was to make an "inspection window" in the tank
> to see why it cloged often and didnt transfer to the header,... later
> close-weld the window.
> Not easy to do, with the thin aluminum used in that tank, We though was
> better to make a new one, so we opened it (cut, no heat),
>
> what we found was that all the sealer inside was peeling off. This was a
> factory demo, that the owner bought in the spot. so (I think) was sealed
> well... Was a white material.
>
> Also I read from the VW conversion list by Mr. Bob "the other" H oover,
> by the way a very experienced home builder, that the sealant should be
> used only when the tank was riveted instead of welded, using the sealant as
> a "gasket" betwen the two areas to rivet. Also he uses only one brand of
> sealer, but cant remember the name now.
>
>
--
Rick Holland
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Pietenpol - Lindbergh Connection? |
CC: marwilson@charter.net
Hi all! A week or so ago I asked if anyone knew whether or not Bernard had
ever met Charles Lindbergh -- here's a note that I got this morning from Dan
Wilson in Austin, Minnesota. Dan asked me to share this with the list.
Wouldn't you have loved to have been a fly on the wall at that meeting.
Wonder what they talked about? Hmmmm....
Fred B.
La Crosse, WI
Greetings ! Fred
I just saw Vi Kapler this afternoon in Rochester. I asked him if he
knew if Bernard ever met Charles Lindbergh. He told me that
Bernard's childhood friend and neighbor Don Finke told him that
Bernard did meet Charles Lindbergh. Bernard met Lucky Lindy prior to
his solo crossing of the Atlantic. Vi recalled that they met at an
airport in the twin cities area. He thought it was in the Rosemount
area. I bet that members of the Finke or Pietenpol family have more
information on this chance meeting of the two great Minnesota Aviators.
Fred, will you please share this information with the rest of the
pietenpol list readers....
Dan Wilson
Austin, Minnesota
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dave Esslinger" <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
Jim, I don't know about other CAD programs, but in AutoCad there are two
basic view options. One is "Model" the other is "Layout". If you print from
Model space with a scale setting of 1:1 the print will come out exactly to
size. One of the nice things about it is, if I need four identical parts I
just print it four times and don't have to do any manual layout.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Ash
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:44 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
How did you resolve the accuracy of transferring your computer image to
print? How accurate is it and how accurate do you need it? I've had
difficulties with the printing process altering the drawing and ending up
with odd dimensions on at least one axis.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Dave Esslinger <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>Sent: Feb 4, 2006 7:25 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List:
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dave Esslinger"
<aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>
>Hello everyone, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking for a few years.
>I have a Piet project sitting in my shop that has been on the shelf for
>quite some time due to time constraints (running a business, remodeling a
>house, keeping up with family etc.) I wanted to share something with you
>all. I've been around construction, cabinet/furniture making, restored cars
>and generally working with my hands for over 40 years and in the past year
I
>came up with an idea so simple, yet so helpful I can't believe I haven't
>heard of it before. I was making metal fittings for my Piet, laying out the
>pieces on the metal with a marking pen, or whatever, then cutting them out.
>I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -
>thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.
>SOLUTION:
>-Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole
layout
>and anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CAD
>programs will work).
>-Print the drawing to full scale.
>-Cut the drawing to the rough size.
>-Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good
one
>and its sold in most hardware stores.
>-Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.
>-When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquer
>thinner and it virtually falls off.
>
>I use the same method to make small precise wooden parts. Works great.
>Now I can't imagine making parts any other way. The computer allows you to
>double check your layout before you put it on the metal. It also gives you
>the minimum line weight so threes no guesswork involved. If you're not
>already using a CAD program it would be well worth the time to learn the
>basics. You'll recoup the time over and over again.
>
>As I said, I've been lurking on the list for quite a while and I've gotten
>so much from everyone I thought I'd give something back. Hope this helps
>somebody out there, I know it's really improved the quality of the parts
>I've made.
>Dave
>Remember
>The Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic was built by Professionals. Keep
>building.
>
>--
>
>
--
--
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <waltdak@verizon.net>
Greetings,
Just a mention, with all this talk of the newer builders making metal
fittings. To save some from having to throw out hard earned fittings,,,just
wanted to bring up the "rules" of metal work with regards to 4130 Grain.
The grain goes with the "longness of a strap" "Gets bent on an angle
bracket" (like looking at the back of your flat hand, then bending all the
fingers down at the second knuckle)
If you buy a sheet of 4130, the grain goes with the printed lettering.
Ain't Life Grand!
Walt in NJ , amid mild weather, waiting for Spring to break!!
walt evans
NX140DL
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Esslinger" <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 2:14 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List:
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dave Esslinger"
> <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>
> Jim, I don't know about other CAD programs, but in AutoCad there are two
> basic view options. One is "Model" the other is "Layout". If you print
> from
> Model space with a scale setting of 1:1 the print will come out exactly to
> size. One of the nice things about it is, if I need four identical parts I
> just print it four times and don't have to do any manual layout.
> Dave
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Jim Ash
> Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 9:44 AM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List:
>
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
>
> How did you resolve the accuracy of transferring your computer image to
> print? How accurate is it and how accurate do you need it? I've had
> difficulties with the printing process altering the drawing and ending up
> with odd dimensions on at least one axis.
>
> Jim Ash
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Dave Esslinger <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>>Sent: Feb 4, 2006 7:25 AM
>>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Pietenpol-List:
>>
>>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dave Esslinger"
> <aquanaut@indy.rr.com>
>>
>>Hello everyone, I'm not new to the list, I've been lurking for a few
>>years.
>>I have a Piet project sitting in my shop that has been on the shelf for
>>quite some time due to time constraints (running a business, remodeling a
>>house, keeping up with family etc.) I wanted to share something with you
>>all. I've been around construction, cabinet/furniture making, restored
>>cars
>>and generally working with my hands for over 40 years and in the past year
> I
>>came up with an idea so simple, yet so helpful I can't believe I haven't
>>heard of it before. I was making metal fittings for my Piet, laying out
>>the
>>pieces on the metal with a marking pen, or whatever, then cutting them
>>out.
>>I wasn't happy at all with the precision of the pieces due to the layout -
>>thickness of line, little off with a measurement etc, etc.
>>SOLUTION:
>>-Draw the part using a CAD Program on the computer including all hole
> layout
>>and anything else you'll need to machine (I use AutoCad but any of the CAD
>>programs will work).
>>-Print the drawing to full scale.
>>-Cut the drawing to the rough size.
>>-Use a spray adhesive to mount the drawing to the metal. 3M makes a good
> one
>>and its sold in most hardware stores.
>>-Cut and drill the part per the drawing layout.
>>-When you're done machining, wet the paper drawing with a little lacquer
>>thinner and it virtually falls off.
>>
>>I use the same method to make small precise wooden parts. Works great.
>>Now I can't imagine making parts any other way. The computer allows you to
>>double check your layout before you put it on the metal. It also gives you
>>the minimum line weight so threes no guesswork involved. If you're not
>>already using a CAD program it would be well worth the time to learn the
>>basics. You'll recoup the time over and over again.
>>
>>As I said, I've been lurking on the list for quite a while and I've gotten
>>so much from everyone I thought I'd give something back. Hope this helps
>>somebody out there, I know it's really improved the quality of the parts
>>I've made.
>>Dave
>>Remember
>>The Ark was built by amateurs, the Titanic was built by Professionals.
>>Keep
>>building.
>>
>>--
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
> --
>
> --
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Steel tube fuselage |
steel tube Piet on e-bay right now
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pietenpol-Air-Camper-experimental-fuselage_W0QQitemZ4610038493QQcategoryZ63679QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
michael silvius
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Fw: Steel tube fuselage |
looks like the wings are being sold eparately
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pietenpol-Air-Camper-experimental-aircraft-wings_W0QQitemZ4610038818QQcategoryZ63679QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | paint and graphics |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Howdy, Pieters;
Question came up over on the KRNet about how long to let paint cure before
applying graphics such as N-numbers and striping. I'm sure it varies
depending on the paint used; this one was a paint used on boats
(International Paint Inc "Interlux #4359 White" polyurethane single part
enamel). Any ideas?
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
This not an article for purists, but for someone looking for a project to get back
in the in a relative short amount of time. I have a PGN-2 that has the best
of the GN-1 and the Piet put together in a unique way. Anyway, I had a hard
landing and have decided to sell the Piet. In all that have looked at it, it is
agreed that it is repairable. I have the rib jig that came with the plane. I
have all the plans and records that have been with the plane from the beginning
of the building. The engine is a subaru E81. The prop was busted, but the lick
seemed to have been absorbed by the reducer that has a back bent plate. It
is a 1.84 ratio. There is some damage to the right wing. Left wing is ok. Some
damage to landing gear and fuselage. Tailfeathers are ok. Price of $1500 includes
instruments, wheels, brakes, engine and reducer. The only think to buy
is a prop. I will consider selling it without instruments or wheels and brakes.
If you would like to see pictures, email me offline. I remember the fuss when
the net gets loaded with pictures. I will email photos of the project.
Doyle Combs
P. O. Box 421
Lometa, Texas 76853
512-752-9202
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Hello everybody,
Well today I went up to my dads place in St.Joseph and I took pictures of the
Aircamper that in his garage that is hanging from the rafters. Would anyone
like to see? Also I have the plans with me now that me and dad got from Orrin
Hoopman in 1996.
have a goodnight,
Ben Ramler
---------------------------------
Brings words and photos together (easily) with
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: fuel tank sealer. |
My fuel tank is welded, but I added the sealant anyway. When I built that tank
I fabricated, rivited it together then took it to a welder. He welded over the
rivits and seams. When I pressure tested it there were a few pinhole leaks,
which he repaired, but that drove me to use sealer. At the time, I figured it
would give some added protection against leaks. I will be keeping watch on
the condition of the tank and if necessary, replace it. I have to make two more
tanks for my new project anyway. I have an expanded center section on the
project, with 32" wide space for fuel (18 gal cap) and seperate tanks gives added
safety.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, February 04, 2006 10:59 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuel tank sealer.
Sounds like the best way to go, if you can weld aluminum, or know someone that
can, is to just do a welded tank and avoid the sealer problem all together.
Or am I missing something
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
id love to see those pics tom
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I would also like to see Ben's Dad's Aircamper...
Hey Ben, if you wouldn't mind sending them offline, I have broadband so send em'
on!
Thanks
Jim in Plano TX.....just bolted all the control hardware and fittings into the
pilot and passenger area, made the cables for the passenger rudder pedals, bolted
on all the engine mount fittings....put cotter pins in where they belong...
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: tenpol-List: |
Try this;
http://deltacad.com/index.html
Clif
Also, for anyone that is looking for inexpensive cad software I found one or two
versions old copies of TurboCad for $5 to $10 on eBay. Nothing like AutoCad
but far more than we need for simple 2D stuff.
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
In a message dated 2/4/2006 12:28:50 PM Central Standard Time,
at7000ft@gmail.com writes:
Also, for anyone that is looking for inexpensive cad software I found one or
two versions old copies of TurboCad for $5 to $10 on eBay. Nothing like
AutoCad but far more than we need for simple 2D stuff.
Caution: I have one of the early versions of TurboCad that I used on my old
computer. It will NOT work with the newer Windows oporating systems...gotta
go buy another Cad program !!
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|