Pietenpol-List Digest Archive

Wed 06/28/06


Total Messages Posted: 26



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:37 AM - clock (Clif Dawson)
     2. 02:54 AM - A65-8 Piston Rings (Hayes, Mike)
     3. 04:47 AM - Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing (Jeff Boatright)
     4. 05:39 AM - N502R's trip home (Gene & Tammy)
     5. 05:45 AM - cht thermocouple washer and copper spark plug washer annealing (Michael D Cuy)
     6. 06:07 AM - Re: N502R's trip home (Michael D Cuy)
     7. 06:47 AM - Adding lightness (Steve Glass)
     8. 08:18 AM - Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing (Barry Davis)
     9. 08:38 AM - Marvel Mystery Oil (Dick Navratil)
    10. 08:55 AM - Re: more basic planning questions. (Dick Navratil)
    11. 09:13 AM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil ()
    12. 09:17 AM - to add lightness, don't add things you don't need (Michael D Cuy)
    13. 10:39 AM - Marvel Mystery Oil (Michael D Cuy)
    14. 11:02 AM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning the combustion chamber (Hogan, James)
    15. 12:19 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Gene & Tammy)
    16. 01:01 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion chamber (Gordon Bowen)
    17. 01:17 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Jim Ash)
    18. 02:08 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion (bike.mike)
    19. 02:28 PM - Marvel Mis. oil (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
    20. 03:17 PM - Re: N502R's trip home (Gene & Tammy)
    21. 03:38 PM - Re: to add lightness, don't add things you don't need (HelsperSew@aol.com)
    22. 04:27 PM - Re: Adding lightness (walt evans)
    23. 05:32 PM - (no subject) (RBush96589@aol.com)
    24. 07:54 PM - Re: Adding lightness (Glenn Thomas)
    25. 09:34 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Dick Navratil)
    26. 09:51 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Rcaprd@aol.com)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 12:37:02 AM PST US
    From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
    Subject: clock
    Check this out. Clif http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Wall-Clock-Pietenpol-Airplane-Aircraft-New-In-Box_ W0QQitemZ4460667074QQihZ001QQcategoryZ79647QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZV iewItem


    Message 2


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    Time: 02:54:50 AM PST US
    From: "Hayes, Mike" <Mike.Hayes@denco.co.uk>
    Subject: A65-8 Piston Rings
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Hayes, Mike" <Mike.Hayes@denco.co.uk> Dear Chaps, My Continental A65-8, has recently had a top end overhaul, following which I am now investigating uneven cylinder temperatures. It might be a mixture thing as plugs in one cylinder are lighter brown than others, but could also be due to piston rings. Each piston has two compression rings, and a third oil scraper ring. At the bottom of each piston is a fourth oil scraper ring. The only difference I can see between the compression rings and the oil scraper rings is that the scraper rings have had one of the outside corners removed, leaving a very small square channel, or step. I believe that the top oil scraper ring should have this step facing downwards, and the bottom one should have it facing upwards. Could anybody please confirm if this is correct and maybe provide a brief explanation? I also need a spare scraper ring because I have broken one, but one source of information suggests I "will be alright" just using an old compression ring in its place. Doesn't sound right to me - but would appreciate any input. Anybody know where I could get some spare scraper rings? Thanks and regards, Mike Hayes G-BKVO --------------------------------------------------------------------------- This message and any associated files sent by Denco Limited are confidential, and intended only for the addressee named above. If you are not the intended recipient, please notify the IT Helpdesk by telephone immediately on 01432 377368 (UK) or +(44) 1432 377 368 (international) or return it to us by e-mail quoting the name of the sender and the address. Please also be advised that you have received this email in error and that any disclosure and/or use of the information contained within this email or attachments is strictly prohibited. Any views or opinions expressed in this e-mail are solely those of the sender and do not necessarily represent those of Denco Limited, its divisions and/or subsidiaries, unless otherwise specifically stated. Please note that this e-mail and any attachments have not been encrypted. They may therefore be liable to be compromised. This is an inherent risk in relation to e-mail. Denco Holdings Limited its divisions subsidiaries and divisions of subsidiaries do not, to the extent permitted by law, accept any liability (whether in contract, negligence or otherwise) for any changes made to this e-mail after it has been sent by the original sender, any external compromises of security and/or breaches of confidentiality in relation to transmissions sent by e-mail. We cannot to the extent permitted by law accept any liability (whether in contract, negligence or otherwise) for any damage sustained as a result of any software viruses and it is therefore your responsibility to scan the attachments (if any) and carry out your own virus check before opening any attachments.


    Message 3


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    Time: 04:47:50 AM PST US
    From: Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu>
    Subject: Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu> Dave, You are correct! It is Mr. Harway's old plane. Do you know anything about its history? We bought it from Brian Swanson. Brian didn't have a lot of information about the plane. Thanks, Jeff At 9:33 PM -0400 6/27/06, Dave and Connie wrote: >That looks like Watson Hartway's old plane. I was probably his last >student for tailwheel transition and now rent his old hangar at 01G. >We had a lot of fun flying off 15 hours of dual when I bought the >Taylorcraft. > >I also had a BFR from the guy that bought the plane outof the >estate. During the BFR I found out that that was his first hour of >Taylorcraft time. > >Dave >N36078 '41 BC-12-65 > >At 07:08 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote: -- _____________________________________________________________ Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD Associate Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis mailto:jboatri@emory.edu


    Message 4


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    Time: 05:39:32 AM PST US
    From: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: N502R's trip home
    Seem like there is a lot of knowledge here on this site. I would like to know why, when you make perfect landings there's never anyone around to watch but when you're bringing you're new plane home and there's an unexpected group of friends and family waiting and watching, you manage a controlled crash (bad enough that you need a go around and try again)? Oh well..... What a flight! Flew my new Pietenpol N502R from the Florida/Georgia border (Thomasville, Ga.) to Camden (Western Tennessee) and loved very minute/foot of it. My first landing was the worst landing I have ever made (a very bad bounce and hammer down to abort. Around the pattern and try again, this time with a little power. What a difference! What a great landing! The kind where the only way you know your down is hearing the yelp of the tires. From then on, as I flew cross country every landing was perfect (up until I got home). What a great plane! What a great cross country trip! At 65 hp it's not fast (60 to 70 mph) and has a real distain for climbing but I have never enjoyed a flight ( I should say flights) as much as I have this cross country in my new open cockpit airplane. Gene


    Message 5


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    Time: 05:45:50 AM PST US
    From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
    Subject: cht thermocouple washer and copper spark plug washer annealing
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov> Guys-- I know that when you change or clean spark plugs you should either use a new copper plug washer or anneal (heat red hot w/ a propane torch, then water quench to soften) the used ones, but my questions is: do you use a copper washer over or with a CHT thermocouple washer ?? Do you also anneal the thermocouple washer as well to make it seal well, become soft or is that not recommended ? I fear that I'm not getting a good seal on that plug where the cht washer is. She's not burning as well and fouls up. The plug is good---bench fires fine. Mike


    Message 6


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    Time: 06:07:45 AM PST US
    From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
    Subject: Re: N502R's trip home
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov> Way to go, Gene ! Glad to hear you brought your new plane home after your purchase and that all went well. You have to watch hot days with power lines and trees at the far end as you're right----she doesn't want to climb at a great rate. Good to hear your landings are getting better too. You really will get a touch for doing those and the 'view' you need to see in up front for things to work out. You should have some good open cockpit weather all the way up to the Thanksgiving timeframe in TN I'll bet. I have to stop flying around Halloween or so (ask Walt E. or others up yonder here) and hope for a few oddly nice weather days between then and May 1st here in Ohio.....but we get the good flying in while we can, just like folks who have boats or campers ! Congratulations and don't be a stranger on the list ! Mike C.


    Message 7


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    Time: 06:47:14 AM PST US
    From: "Steve Glass" <redsglass@hotmail.com>
    Subject: Adding lightness
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Steve Glass" <redsglass@hotmail.com> Hi everybody. As I am still compiling information and have not started building I'm wondering how to build light. I wonder if anybody has done a spreadsheet on weights. I have seen some weights for tails wings and fuselage but what about the little parts. Instruments wheels landing gear etc. What are you builders thoughts if you had to build again to minimize weight what would you target? Wood is the first thing but the glue and gusssets are what they are. I thought of rounding off all the stringers and longerons, improves looks, helps varnish stick, looks better shaves. some weight. Build short tail standard width minimum fuel tank and instruments. I would think finish is a big area of possible savings and always weight watchers for the pilot. What are the top ten things to do to add lightness. Lets hear your thoughts. Steve in Maine


    Message 8


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    Time: 08:18:34 AM PST US
    From: "Barry Davis" <bed@mindspring.com>
    Subject: Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing
    My Piet and aileron gap sealingHey Jeff, I believe that your reason for using gap seals was explained better than any argument I have ever heard before on the subject. It always is good to learn from experience. Now we have the first article for the Piet Newsletter. Barry Big Piet Builders - Carrollton, Ga ----- Original Message ----- From: Jeff Boatright To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 8:53 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: My Piet and aileron gap sealing Douwe, Sorry you can't make it this year. My dad, a friend, and I bought our Piet last August and we along with my wife will be at Brodhead. Thanks for asking about it. Our Piet was built in 1976 by a fellow in upstate NY. It's only got about 300 hrs on it. Trucked in down in a UHaul. That was a long drive that ended safely but in a downpour at the home airport. The workmanship is excellent, it's always been hangared and the fabric is in great shape. The original engine was an A65. Though it was low-time, it had issues and has since been replaced with a C-75. With two on board (180 lbs and 160 lbs) and full fuel (14 gal), we climb out at about 450 fpm on a fairly standard day. The engine swap helps on take-off and climb. However, the biggest gain we've seen, certainly the biggest compared to the effort, was sealing the aileron gaps with translucent duct tape. Before this, I always felt that the plane was balanced on a knife edge on both axes. It was jittery and just downright un-fun to fly in any circumstance other than dead still air. Even in dead still air, initiating a control input was like being slammed in turbulence - I'd move the stick, nothing would happen, then (as Emeril would say) BAM! the plane would lurch over into a turn. Even in light chop it was real work to fly the thing. Now, it is rock solid. The response is fairly quick, but s-m-o-o-t-h and predictable. I highly suggest it to anyone who is flying with open gaps. It really adds joy to the whole experience. Another thing we've found is that the plane is happiest at about 70 mph. It'll do 90, but even at 80 it is just not as fun an experience. Maybe bigger windscreens or better rigging would help. But, it sure is fun at 70, so why bother? A picture of the Piet and me is at the Pietenpol frappr site: http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=1251828&pid=1983898 Jeff At 2:34 PM -0400 6/27/06, Douwe Blumberg wrote: I can't believe it, but I won't be able to make this year. My best friend is getting married on Sat and simply refused to postpone it for me (rather selfish I thought!) Tell me about your Piet. Did you buy it, build it, is it finished, what engine??? -- Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D. Associate Professor Department of Ophthalmology Emory University School of Medicine Atlanta, GA 30322 Editor-in-Chief Molecular Vision http://www.molvis.org/


    Message 9


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    Time: 08:38:34 AM PST US
    From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
    Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil
    I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by clogging the gascolator. I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil before flying again. These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at cleaning the insides. I havent tried that. Dick N.


    Message 10


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    Time: 08:55:18 AM PST US
    From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
    Subject: Re: more basic planning questions.
    Unfortunatly, the greatest variable in achiving greater useful load is for the pilot to lose a great deal of weight. For me that would involve not drinking beer, eating ice cream or a few other things I enjoy. So we're down to increasing power, going to a C-85 or O-200 which I don't have the extra cash for. I just I can't give a ride to a 200 lb guy on a warm day. Dick N. ----- Original Message ----- From: AMsafetyC@aol.com To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:05 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: more basic planning questions. I would like to achieve a wider range of useable load and climb performance without too many sacrifices. With the exception of the prop. What are the other variables to increasing useable load? Is this a horsepower only issue and what are the other variables? I realize there are a series of design compromises that accompany design changes so I was curious as where the useable comes from and how is that determined? Naturally the collective experience and insight and topic knowledge is greatly appreciated in answering one of many basic questions I have. Thanks John


    Message 11


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    Time: 09:13:19 AM PST US
    From: <harvey.rule@bell.ca>
    Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil
    A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the mouth of the carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I have never tried this and I'm not even sure it would work.Hell for all I know it might blow the head of an engine but sometimes these old guys have some pretty weird ideas that work.Anybody out there ever heard of this procedure or am I just blown smoke here? ________________________________ [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick Navratil Sent: June 28, 2006 11:38 AM I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by clogging the gascolator. I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil before flying again. These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at cleaning the insides. I havent tried that. Dick N.


    Message 12


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    Time: 09:17:57 AM PST US
    From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
    Subject: to add lightness, don't add things you don't need
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov> Steve--- You can build a good performing Air Camper and still have such things as brakes, tailwheel, tailwheel steering a 17 gallon nose/firewall fuel tank, a roomy luggage compartment in the center section, and still come in (as mine did) around 632 pounds empty weight w/ a 65 hp. Continental. Ways to avoid building a ground lover is to not add an electrical system of any kind (unless you absolutely have to for your airspace requirements) don't put in front instruments, don't use carpet or upholstery, don't worry about the basic parts---build them just like the plans call for, use 3/32" cables instead of 1/8" where it calls for even tho the 1/8" makes some people feel more secure, avoid the auto engines unless you like the Corvair which has a good power-to-weight ratio, don't add a ventui or vacuum system or gauges that you shouldn't ever even need in a plane like a Pietenpol. If you need to use a radio and gps, use the hand-held versions---they work great. If you want more lift, add some length to the wings. Bill Rewey and others have made the center section wider to give a longer wing span and with 65 hp Bill Rewey can haul some big passengers because of that added wing area. (plus his is a basic Piet--no frills. I'm sure others have some good suggestions that I've not mentioned, but don't go splitting hairs like wasting time pulling out rib nails or staples after the glue has dried unless you are totally bored. Lastly----do not quit or sell your project. If you don't have a burning desire to complete this plane and fly it, just enjoy it as an enthusiast from the enthusiast's perspective. This is a long-haul project that will tax your will, patience, and time like nothing else you've ever done. But.....if you stick it out to the end, there is no better feeling of satisfaction and accomplishment. Mike C.


    Message 13


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    Time: 10:39:56 AM PST US
    From: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
    Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov> Dick-- I add the MMO just like you do-----before fueling and I've never had a lick of trouble with my gascolator, carb screen or fuel flow. I even did another fuel flow test last summer and I am getting the exact same flow at the carb as I got when the system was new 400 hours ago. Mike C.


    Message 14


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    Time: 11:02:55 AM PST US
    From: "Hogan, James" <JHogan@jpmc.org>
    Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning the combustion
    chamber I have a Saturn that burns lots of oil and I read about pouring water (about as fast as you would add milk to your coffee) with the engine running between 2000 and 2500 rpm. The water steam cleans the combustion chamber and if you pour a little fast it will bog down the engine a little. I've done this a couple of times (nearly a half gallon of water the first time) and each time the engine runs significantly better, stops knocking, and the plugs looked better. Expect lots of white smoke when/if you do this! I did this knowing I'm going to need engine work in the near future so I wasn't so concerned. If you read the DIY section on Saturnfans.com you should find quite a bit of discussion on their forums. James H -----Original Message----- [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of harvey.rule@bell.ca Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:12 AM A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the mouth of the carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I have never tried this and I'm not even sure it would work.Hell for all I know it might blow the head of an engine but sometimes these old guys have some pretty weird ideas that work.Anybody out there ever heard of this procedure or am I just blown smoke here? _____ [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick Navratil Sent: June 28, 2006 11:38 AM I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by clogging the gascolator. I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil before flying again. These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at cleaning the insides. I havent tried that. Dick N. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This message and any included attachments are intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is intended and may contain information that is privileged, confidential and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Unauthorized forwarding, printing, copying, distribution, or use of this information is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. If you are not the intended recipient, please promptly delete this message and notify the sender of the delivery error by e-mail or you may notify postmaster@jpmc.org of the error.


    Message 15


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    Time: 12:19:14 PM PST US
    From: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: Marvel Mystery Oil
    Boy, I sure hate to get involved in this discussing. Please don't kill the messenger....I'm not pro or con on the subject, I'm just relaying on information. Some folks kinda feel that talking about Marvel Mystery Oil is like talking about their mother. You'd better watch what you say. On another site (Yahoo Avid Flyers) the subject was brought up a few years ago as a number of folks use it in their two strokes. Someone posted an excerp from a NTSB investigation that listed Marvel Myster Oil as being made of Mineral Oil, Stoddard Salvent and Lard. I really know very little about 4 stroke engines and everything I read will be a big help for me. What kind of fuel burn does the rest of you guys that fly behind a 65 Continental get? Are you using Av gas or auto gas? Gene New to the site and new to flying (and loving) a Pietenpol. ----- Original Message ----- From: Dick Navratil To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 10:37 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by clogging the gascolator. I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil before flying again. These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at cleaning the insides. I havent tried that. Dick N.


    Message 16


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    Time: 01:01:45 PM PST US
    From: "Gordon Bowen" <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
    Subject: Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion
    chamber If memory serves me right, the old P-51 and some other piston driven WWII prop fighters had a water injection system for their fuel. Not sure about the science but worked for them with RRoyce engines etc.. Gordon ----- Original Message ----- From: Hogan, James To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 10:01 AM Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion chamber I have a Saturn that burns lots of oil and I read about pouring water (about as fast as you would add milk to your coffee) with the engine running between 2000 and 2500 rpm. The water steam cleans the combustion chamber and if you pour a little fast it will bog down the engine a little. I've done this a couple of times (nearly a half gallon of water the first time) and each time the engine runs significantly better, stops knocking, and the plugs looked better. Expect lots of white smoke when/if you do this! I did this knowing I'm going to need engine work in the near future so I wasn't so concerned. If you read the DIY section on Saturnfans.com you should find quite a bit of discussion on their forums. James H -----Original Message----- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of harvey.rule@bell.ca Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:12 AM To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the mouth of the carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I have never tried this and I'm not even sure it would work.Hell for all I know it might blow the head of an engine but sometimes these old guys have some pretty weird ideas that work.Anybody out there ever heard of this procedure or am I just blown smoke here? ------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick Navratil Sent: June 28, 2006 11:38 AM To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Subject: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by clogging the gascolator. I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil before flying again. These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at cleaning the insides. I havent tried that. Dick N. CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE This message and any included attachments are intended only for the use of the individual or entity to which it is intended and may contain information that is privileged, confidential and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. Unauthorized forwarding, printing, copying, distribution, or use of this information is strictly prohibited and may be unlawful. If you are not the intended recipient, please promptly delete this message and notify the sender of the delivery error by e-mail or you may notify postmaster@jpmc.org of the error.


    Message 17


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    Time: 01:17:41 PM PST US
    From: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
    Subject: Marvel Mystery Oil
    --- MIME Errors - No Plain-Text Section Found --- A message with no text/plain MIME section was received. The entire body of the message was removed. Please resend the email using Plain Text formatting. HOTMAIL is notorious for only including an HTML section in their client's default configuration. If you're using HOTMAIL, please see your email application's settings and switch to a default mail option that uses "Plain Text". --- MIME Errors No Plain-Text Section Found ---


    Message 18


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    Time: 02:08:27 PM PST US
    From: "bike.mike" <bike.mike@charter.net>
    Subject: Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion
    Many supercharged and high-compression gasoline burners use water injection. The purpose is to lower the peak pre-ignition temperatures in the combustion chamber, especially at high manifold pressures. Any time you rapidly compress a gas such as air, you get a corresponding temperature increase. If the air is already compressed, and heated, by a supercharger (or turbocharger) when it enters the cylinder on the intake stroke, the compression stroke in the cyclinder can cause the temperature of the already-hot fuel/air mixture to reach the ignition point, causing what we recognize as pinging. Injecting a small amount of water into the intake stream cools it, hopefully enough so that the spark plug gets the honor of igniting the mix. Whether or not such engines are cleaner because of the injection, I can't say. Mike Hardaway ----- Original Message ----- From: Gordon Bowen To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 1:00 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion chamber If memory serves me right, the old P-51 and some other piston driven WWII prop fighters had a water injection system for their fuel. Not sure about the science but worked for them with RRoyce engines etc.. Gordon


    Message 19


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    Time: 02:28:39 PM PST US
    From: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
    Subject: Marvel Mis. oil
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan) Several years ago when I owned a Stinson I met a fellow Stinson owner who had a 108-3 that he bought new and had only 800TTSN and the engine had never been touched. He said his secret was 1 qt. MMO in the oil at each change. I talked about this once to my old high school auto shop teacher who stays current on all things automotive since he still teaches, He thought there might have been something to this in the 40's, 50,s and even the 60's when the oil back then was just basically oil. Nothing else. Now days with all of the additives the oil co's have spent millions on r&d and putting in oil the need for MMO has seen its days. All of these additives are the reason cars now can get 250K miles with few problems. My own Ford has 175K and still doesn't burn a drop between 3000 mi. oil changes. In the old days it would be on it's 3rd engine and at that the 3rd. one probably be on it's last legs right now. We just had an big engine rebuild shop go out of business here laying off 60 people. mostly because of modern oil. ------Building a Piet light- Build a steel tube fuselage. ------The new Ultra Flight magazine ( June issue ) has an article on building your own propeller.--- Newsletter: I've always wondered if the internet has more or less eliminated the news letter. In the past if you needed a question asked you sent a letter to the news letter and waited 2 months for it to appear. Then if someone answered the question threw the newsletter it could be another 2 months before you got to read it. This list is instantaneous. Some thoughts... Leon Stefan In Ks. Do not archive


    Message 20


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    Time: 03:17:22 PM PST US
    From: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey@bellsouth.net>
    Subject: Re: N502R's trip home
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey@bellsouth.net> Mike, Thanks for the advice. This list has been great help all the way around. Jack Phillips was kind enough to send me an account of his trip and I can't put into words how much that helped. I really was not use to dealing with the minimal climbing abilities of the Piet and I'm sure that I would have thought there was somthing wrong with the plane. Having been prepared by reading Jack's account I found everything about the Piet very enjoyable. I plan on putting a lot of hours on this plane and having spent some 45 years in Alaska I don't think these Tennessee winters will stop me from putting on a snow machine suit and enjoying some fine winter flying. Gene ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 8:06 AM > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy > <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov> > > Way to go, Gene ! > > Glad to hear you brought your new plane home after your purchase and that > all went well. You have to watch hot days with power lines and trees > > at the far end as you're right----she doesn't want to climb at a great > rate. > > Good to hear your landings are getting better too. You really will get a > touch for doing those and the 'view' you need to see in up front for > things > > to work out. You should have some good open cockpit weather all the way > up to the Thanksgiving timeframe in TN I'll bet. > > I have to stop flying around Halloween or so (ask Walt E. or others up > yonder here) and hope for a few oddly nice weather days between then and > > May 1st here in Ohio.....but we get the good flying in while we can, just > like folks who have boats or campers ! > > Congratulations and don't be a stranger on the list ! > > Mike C. > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List > http://wiki.matronics.com > > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 03:38:09 PM PST US
    From: HelsperSew@aol.com
    Subject: Re: to add lightness, don't add things you don't need
    Mike, You have a very great gift of encouragement. That last paragraph almost brought tears to my eyes!! Dan Helsper Poplar Grove, IL


    Message 22


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    Time: 04:27:19 PM PST US
    From: "walt evans" <waltdak@verizon.net>
    Subject: Re: Adding lightness
    Steve, There is no secret. Just build to the plans. Most have the opinion,,,"how can I change this, or how can I change that". If you don't go there, you'll build light. I only changed the aileron hinges to piano hinges,,,and slight mod on the split gear where the "V" comes together down by the axle,,,and not much more. My empty weight was 595# I can take my fat arse of 200# and a number of friends 200/225#, no problem. Climb is a little slower, but no white knuckles. But I see what the heavy guys go thru. When I fill the 14 gal nose tank , and the 10 gal wing tank, I'm up where you heavy guys are without a passenger. walt evans NX140DL PS anybody know this guy? :^) "Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you" Ben Franklin ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 9:45 AM > --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Steve Glass" > <redsglass@hotmail.com> > > Hi everybody. > > As I am still compiling information and have not started building I'm > wondering how to build light. > > I wonder if anybody has done a spreadsheet on weights. I have seen some > weights for tails wings and fuselage but what about the little parts. > Instruments wheels landing gear etc. > > What are you builders thoughts if you had to build again to minimize > weight what would you target? > > Wood is the first thing but the glue and gusssets are what they are. I > thought of rounding off all the stringers and longerons, improves looks, > helps varnish stick, looks better shaves. some weight. Build short tail > standard width minimum fuel tank and instruments. I would think finish is > a big area of possible savings and always weight watchers for the pilot. > > What are the top ten things to do to add lightness. Lets hear your > thoughts. > > Steve in Maine > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List > http://wiki.matronics.com > > >


    Message 23


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    Time: 05:32:13 PM PST US
    From: RBush96589@aol.com
    Subject: (no subject)
    congratulations Gene on your purchase,and glad to hear you had agood trip home. this is Randy Bush ,I'm the one Jack was telling you about with the piet under construction near Lexington TN,I'm between Lexington and Jackson at exit 93 law rd.off I-40 youre welcome to stop in any time,just give me a call I'm usually around on weekends 731 267 0578


    Message 24


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    Time: 07:54:33 PM PST US
    From: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
    Subject: Re: Adding lightness
    --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com> As Walt's featured 210 lb passenger, I can attest that the plane flies nicely with a heavy payload :)) No white knuckles on me either Walt! -------- Glenn Thomas N????? http://www.flyingwood.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=43662#43662


    Message 25


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    Time: 09:34:21 PM PST US
    From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
    Subject: Re: Marvel Mystery Oil
    Gene I have a A-65 and burn about 4.5 gph when flying around 2000 msl, better burn at 3000 about 3.9 gph. I go back and forth between 100LL and mogas. Just be sure there is no ethanol. Has anyone ever taken a sniff of Marvel . Smells like Vasoline Petroleum Jelly to me. Dick ----- Original Message ----- From: Gene & Tammy To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 2:17 PM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil Boy, I sure hate to get involved in this discussing. Please don't kill the messenger....I'm not pro or con on the subject, I'm just relaying on information. Some folks kinda feel that talking about Marvel Mystery Oil is like talking about their mother. You'd better watch what you say. On another site (Yahoo Avid Flyers) the subject was brought up a few years ago as a number of folks use it in their two strokes. Someone posted an excerp from a NTSB investigation that listed Marvel Myster Oil as being made of Mineral Oil, Stoddard Salvent and Lard. I really know very little about 4 stroke engines and everything I read will be a big help for me. What kind of fuel burn does the rest of you guys that fly behind a 65 Continental get? Are you using Av gas or auto gas


    Message 26


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    Time: 09:51:29 PM PST US
    From: Rcaprd@aol.com
    Subject: Re: Marvel Mystery Oil
    In a message dated 6/28/2006 11:15:55 AM Central Standard Time, harvey.rule@bell.ca writes: A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the mouth of th e carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I have never tried this and I=99m not even sure it would work.Hell for all I know it migh t blow the head of an engine but sometimes these old guys have some pretty weird ideas that work.Anybody out there ever heard of this procedure or am I just blown smoke here? This method works on an engine that has excessive carbon buildup in the combustion chamber, and under the intake valves...a condition caused by exce ssive rich mixture. The Hydrogen in the water is what softens the carbon, and ero des it away. I've used this method on the large trucks, with gas engines, I use d to work on. I've also used it on several automobile engines, and it helps the engine run better, if it had the carbon build up. Chuck G. NX770CG




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