Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 12:37 AM - clock (Clif Dawson)
2. 02:54 AM - A65-8 Piston Rings (Hayes, Mike)
3. 04:47 AM - Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing (Jeff Boatright)
4. 05:39 AM - N502R's trip home (Gene & Tammy)
5. 05:45 AM - cht thermocouple washer and copper spark plug washer annealing (Michael D Cuy)
6. 06:07 AM - Re: N502R's trip home (Michael D Cuy)
7. 06:47 AM - Adding lightness (Steve Glass)
8. 08:18 AM - Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing (Barry Davis)
9. 08:38 AM - Marvel Mystery Oil (Dick Navratil)
10. 08:55 AM - Re: more basic planning questions. (Dick Navratil)
11. 09:13 AM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil ()
12. 09:17 AM - to add lightness, don't add things you don't need (Michael D Cuy)
13. 10:39 AM - Marvel Mystery Oil (Michael D Cuy)
14. 11:02 AM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning the combustion chamber (Hogan, James)
15. 12:19 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Gene & Tammy)
16. 01:01 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion chamber (Gordon Bowen)
17. 01:17 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Jim Ash)
18. 02:08 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion (bike.mike)
19. 02:28 PM - Marvel Mis. oil (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
20. 03:17 PM - Re: N502R's trip home (Gene & Tammy)
21. 03:38 PM - Re: to add lightness, don't add things you don't need (HelsperSew@aol.com)
22. 04:27 PM - Re: Adding lightness (walt evans)
23. 05:32 PM - (no subject) (RBush96589@aol.com)
24. 07:54 PM - Re: Adding lightness (Glenn Thomas)
25. 09:34 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Dick Navratil)
26. 09:51 PM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
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Check this out.
Clif
http://cgi.ebay.com/10-Wall-Clock-Pietenpol-Airplane-Aircraft-New-In-Box_
W0QQitemZ4460667074QQihZ001QQcategoryZ79647QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZV
iewItem
Message 2
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Subject: | A65-8 Piston Rings |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Hayes, Mike" <Mike.Hayes@denco.co.uk>
Dear Chaps,
My Continental A65-8, has recently had a top end overhaul, following which I
am now investigating uneven cylinder temperatures. It might be a mixture
thing as plugs in one cylinder are lighter brown than others, but could also
be due to piston rings.
Each piston has two compression rings, and a third oil scraper ring. At the
bottom of each piston is a fourth oil scraper ring. The only difference I
can see between the compression rings and the oil scraper rings is that the
scraper rings have had one of the outside corners removed, leaving a very
small square channel, or step. I believe that the top oil scraper ring
should have this step facing downwards, and the bottom one should have it
facing upwards. Could anybody please confirm if this is correct and maybe
provide a brief explanation?
I also need a spare scraper ring because I have broken one, but one source
of information suggests I "will be alright" just using an old compression
ring in its place. Doesn't sound right to me - but would appreciate any
input.
Anybody know where I could get some spare scraper rings?
Thanks and regards,
Mike Hayes
G-BKVO
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Subject: | Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jeff Boatright <jboatri@emory.edu>
Dave,
You are correct! It is Mr. Harway's old plane. Do you know anything
about its history? We bought it from Brian Swanson. Brian didn't have
a lot of information about the plane.
Thanks,
Jeff
At 9:33 PM -0400 6/27/06, Dave and Connie wrote:
>That looks like Watson Hartway's old plane. I was probably his last
>student for tailwheel transition and now rent his old hangar at 01G.
>We had a lot of fun flying off 15 hours of dual when I bought the
>Taylorcraft.
>
>I also had a BFR from the guy that bought the plane outof the
>estate. During the BFR I found out that that was his first hour of
>Taylorcraft time.
>
>Dave
>N36078 '41 BC-12-65
>
>At 07:08 PM 6/27/2006, you wrote:
--
_____________________________________________________________
Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
Associate Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA
Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis
mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
Message 4
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Subject: | N502R's trip home |
Seem like there is a lot of knowledge here on this site. I would like
to know why, when you make perfect landings there's never anyone around
to watch but when you're bringing you're new plane home and there's an
unexpected group of friends and family waiting and watching, you manage
a controlled crash (bad enough that you need a go around and try again)?
Oh well.....
What a flight! Flew my new Pietenpol N502R from the Florida/Georgia
border (Thomasville, Ga.) to Camden (Western Tennessee) and loved very
minute/foot of it.
My first landing was the worst landing I have ever made (a very bad
bounce and hammer down to abort. Around the pattern and try again, this
time with a little power. What a difference! What a great landing!
The kind where the only way you know your down is hearing the yelp of
the tires. From then on, as I flew cross country every landing was
perfect (up until I got home).
What a great plane! What a great cross country trip! At 65 hp it's not
fast (60 to 70 mph) and has a real distain for climbing but I have never
enjoyed a flight ( I should say flights) as much as I have this cross
country in my new open cockpit airplane.
Gene
Message 5
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Subject: | cht thermocouple washer and copper spark plug washer annealing |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Guys-- I know that when you change or clean spark plugs you should either
use a new copper plug washer
or anneal (heat red hot w/ a propane torch, then water quench to soften)
the used ones, but my questions is:
do you use a copper washer over or with a CHT thermocouple washer ?? Do
you also anneal the thermocouple
washer as well to make it seal well, become soft or is that not recommended ?
I fear that I'm not getting a good seal on that plug where the cht washer is.
She's not burning as well and fouls up. The plug is good---bench fires fine.
Mike
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: N502R's trip home |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Way to go, Gene !
Glad to hear you brought your new plane home after your purchase and that
all went well. You have to watch hot days with power lines and trees
at the far end as you're right----she doesn't want to climb at a great rate.
Good to hear your landings are getting better too. You really will get a
touch for doing those and the 'view' you need to see in up front for things
to work out. You should have some good open cockpit weather all the way
up to the Thanksgiving timeframe in TN I'll bet.
I have to stop flying around Halloween or so (ask Walt E. or others up
yonder here) and hope for a few oddly nice weather days between then and
May 1st here in Ohio.....but we get the good flying in while we can, just
like folks who have boats or campers !
Congratulations and don't be a stranger on the list !
Mike C.
Message 7
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Subject: | Adding lightness |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Steve Glass" <redsglass@hotmail.com>
Hi everybody.
As I am still compiling information and have not started building I'm
wondering how to build light.
I wonder if anybody has done a spreadsheet on weights. I have seen some
weights for tails wings and fuselage but what about the little parts.
Instruments wheels landing gear etc.
What are you builders thoughts if you had to build again to minimize weight
what would you target?
Wood is the first thing but the glue and gusssets are what they are. I
thought of rounding off all the stringers and longerons, improves looks,
helps varnish stick, looks better shaves. some weight. Build short tail
standard width minimum fuel tank and instruments. I would think finish is a
big area of possible savings and always weight watchers for the pilot.
What are the top ten things to do to add lightness. Lets hear your
thoughts.
Steve in Maine
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: My Piet and aileron gap sealing |
My Piet and aileron gap sealingHey Jeff,
I believe that your reason for using gap seals was explained better than
any argument I have ever heard before on the subject. It always is good
to learn from experience.
Now we have the first article for the Piet Newsletter.
Barry
Big Piet Builders - Carrollton, Ga
----- Original Message -----
From: Jeff Boatright
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 8:53 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: My Piet and aileron gap sealing
Douwe,
Sorry you can't make it this year. My dad, a friend, and I bought our
Piet last August and we along with my wife will be at Brodhead. Thanks
for asking about it.
Our Piet was built in 1976 by a fellow in upstate NY. It's only got
about 300 hrs on it. Trucked in down in a UHaul. That was a long drive
that ended safely but in a downpour at the home airport. The workmanship
is excellent, it's always been hangared and the fabric is in great
shape. The original engine was an A65. Though it was low-time, it had
issues and has since been replaced with a C-75. With two on board (180
lbs and 160 lbs) and full fuel (14 gal), we climb out at about 450 fpm
on a fairly standard day.
The engine swap helps on take-off and climb. However, the biggest gain
we've seen, certainly the biggest compared to the effort, was sealing
the aileron gaps with translucent duct tape. Before this, I always felt
that the plane was balanced on a knife edge on both axes. It was jittery
and just downright un-fun to fly in any circumstance other than dead
still air. Even in dead still air, initiating a control input was like
being slammed in turbulence - I'd move the stick, nothing would happen,
then (as Emeril would say) BAM! the plane would lurch over into a turn.
Even in light chop it was real work to fly the thing.
Now, it is rock solid. The response is fairly quick, but s-m-o-o-t-h
and predictable. I highly suggest it to anyone who is flying with open
gaps. It really adds joy to the whole experience.
Another thing we've found is that the plane is happiest at about 70
mph. It'll do 90, but even at 80 it is just not as fun an experience.
Maybe bigger windscreens or better rigging would help. But, it sure is
fun at 70, so why bother?
A picture of the Piet and me is at the Pietenpol frappr site:
http://www.frappr.com/?a=viewphoto&id=1251828&pid=1983898
Jeff
At 2:34 PM -0400 6/27/06, Douwe Blumberg wrote:
I can't believe it, but I won't be able to make this year. My best
friend is getting married on Sat and simply refused to postpone it for
me (rather selfish I thought!)
Tell me about your Piet. Did you buy it, build it, is it finished,
what engine???
--
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor
Department of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Atlanta, GA 30322
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
http://www.molvis.org/
Message 9
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Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil |
I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others
at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with
fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub
pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by
clogging the gascolator.
I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will
pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil
before flying again.
These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and
running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at
cleaning the insides. I havent tried that.
Dick N.
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: more basic planning questions. |
Unfortunatly, the greatest variable in achiving greater useful load is
for the pilot to lose a great deal of weight. For me that would involve
not drinking beer, eating ice cream or a few other things I enjoy. So
we're down to increasing power, going to a C-85 or O-200 which I don't
have the extra cash for. I just I can't give a ride to a 200 lb guy on a
warm day.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: AMsafetyC@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 27, 2006 7:05 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: more basic planning questions.
I would like to achieve a wider range of useable load and climb
performance without too many sacrifices.
With the exception of the prop. What are the other variables to
increasing useable load? Is this a horsepower only issue and what are
the other variables?
I realize there are a series of design compromises that accompany
design changes so I was curious as where the useable comes from and how
is that determined?
Naturally the collective experience and insight and topic knowledge is
greatly appreciated in answering one of many basic questions I have.
Thanks
John
Message 11
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Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil |
A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the mouth
of the carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I have
never tried this and I'm not even sure it would work.Hell for all I know
it might blow the head of an engine but sometimes these old guys have
some pretty weird ideas that work.Anybody out there ever heard of this
procedure or am I just blown smoke here?
________________________________
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: June 28, 2006 11:38 AM
I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others
at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with
fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub
pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by
clogging the gascolator.
I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will
pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil
before flying again.
These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and
running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at
cleaning the insides. I havent tried that.
Dick N.
Message 12
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Subject: | to add lightness, don't add things you don't need |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Steve--- You can build a good performing Air Camper and still have such
things as brakes, tailwheel, tailwheel steering
a 17 gallon nose/firewall fuel tank, a roomy luggage compartment in the
center section, and still come in (as mine did) around
632 pounds empty weight w/ a 65 hp. Continental.
Ways to avoid building a ground lover is to not add an electrical system of
any kind (unless you absolutely have to for your airspace
requirements) don't put in front instruments, don't use carpet or
upholstery, don't worry about the basic parts---build them just like the
plans call for, use 3/32" cables instead of 1/8" where it calls for even
tho the 1/8" makes some people feel more secure, avoid the auto
engines unless you like the Corvair which has a good power-to-weight
ratio, don't add a ventui or vacuum system or gauges that you
shouldn't ever even need in a plane like a Pietenpol. If you need to use
a radio and gps, use the hand-held versions---they work great.
If you want more lift, add some length to the wings. Bill Rewey and
others have made the center section wider to give a longer wing
span and with 65 hp Bill Rewey can haul some big passengers because of that
added wing area. (plus his is a basic Piet--no frills.
I'm sure others have some good suggestions that I've not mentioned, but
don't go splitting hairs like wasting time pulling out rib nails or
staples after the glue has dried unless you are totally bored.
Lastly----do not quit or sell your project. If you don't have a burning
desire to complete this plane and fly it, just enjoy it as an enthusiast
from the enthusiast's perspective. This is a long-haul project that will
tax your will, patience, and time like nothing else you've ever done.
But.....if you stick it out to the end, there is no better feeling of
satisfaction and accomplishment.
Mike C.
Message 13
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Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Dick-- I add the MMO just like you do-----before fueling and I've never had
a lick of trouble with my gascolator, carb screen or
fuel flow. I even did another fuel flow test last summer and I am getting
the exact same flow at the carb as I got when the system was
new 400 hours ago.
Mike C.
Message 14
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Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning the combustion |
chamber
I have a Saturn that burns lots of oil and I read about pouring water
(about as fast as you would add milk to your coffee) with the engine
running between 2000 and 2500 rpm. The water steam cleans the
combustion chamber and if you pour a little fast it will bog down the
engine a little. I've done this a couple of times (nearly a half
gallon of water the first time) and each time the engine runs
significantly better, stops knocking, and the plugs looked better.
Expect lots of white smoke when/if you do this! I did this knowing I'm
going to need engine work in the near future so I wasn't so concerned.
If you read the DIY section on Saturnfans.com you should find quite a
bit of discussion on their forums.
James H
-----Original Message-----
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
harvey.rule@bell.ca
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:12 AM
A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the mouth
of the carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I have
never tried this and I'm not even sure it would work.Hell for all I know
it might blow the head of an engine but sometimes these old guys have
some pretty weird ideas that work.Anybody out there ever heard of this
procedure or am I just blown smoke here?
_____
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: June 28, 2006 11:38 AM
I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from others
at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well with
fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the Cub
pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by
clogging the gascolator.
I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will
pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil
before flying again.
These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and
running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at
cleaning the insides. I havent tried that.
Dick N.
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil |
Boy, I sure hate to get involved in this discussing. Please don't kill
the messenger....I'm not pro or con on the subject, I'm just relaying on
information. Some folks kinda feel that talking about Marvel Mystery
Oil is like talking about their mother. You'd better watch what you
say.
On another site (Yahoo Avid Flyers) the subject was brought up a few
years ago as a number of folks use it in their two strokes. Someone
posted an excerp from a NTSB investigation that listed Marvel Myster Oil
as being made of Mineral Oil, Stoddard Salvent and Lard.
I really know very little about 4 stroke engines and everything I read
will be a big help for me. What kind of fuel burn does the rest of you
guys that fly behind a 65 Continental get? Are you using Av gas or auto
gas?
Gene
New to the site and new to flying (and loving) a Pietenpol.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Navratil
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 10:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil
I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from
others at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well
with fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the
Cub pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by
clogging the gascolator.
I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I will
pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil
before flying again.
These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil and
running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job at
cleaning the insides. I havent tried that.
Dick N.
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion |
chamber
If memory serves me right, the old P-51 and some other piston driven
WWII prop fighters had a water injection system for their fuel. Not
sure about the science but worked for them with RRoyce engines etc..
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: Hogan, James
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 10:01 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning
thecombustion chamber
I have a Saturn that burns lots of oil and I read about pouring water
(about as fast as you would add milk to your coffee) with the engine
running between 2000 and 2500 rpm. The water steam cleans the
combustion chamber and if you pour a little fast it will bog down the
engine a little. I've done this a couple of times (nearly a half
gallon of water the first time) and each time the engine runs
significantly better, stops knocking, and the plugs looked better.
Expect lots of white smoke when/if you do this! I did this knowing I'm
going to need engine work in the near future so I wasn't so concerned.
If you read the DIY section on Saturnfans.com you should find quite a
bit of discussion on their forums.
James H
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
harvey.rule@bell.ca
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 11:12 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil
A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the
mouth of the carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I
have never tried this and I'm not even sure it would work.Hell for all I
know it might blow the head of an engine but sometimes these old guys
have some pretty weird ideas that work.Anybody out there ever heard of
this procedure or am I just blown smoke here?
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
---
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dick
Navratil
Sent: June 28, 2006 11:38 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil
I have been adding MMO to my fuel. However, I got a warning from
others at our EAA meeting last week. Apparantly, MMO does not mix well
with fuel and it is necessary to pre mix it into the gas. Some of the
Cub pilots at the meeting were saying that it had caused some crashes by
clogging the gascolator.
I had been just pouring the MMO into the tank before fueling. I
will pump out the tank bottom with a hand pump to check for unmixed oil
before flying again.
These guys also were saying that adding 2 cycle oil to engine oil
and running the engine for a while before changing oil does a great job
at cleaning the insides. I havent tried that.
Dick N.
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Subject: | Marvel Mystery Oil |
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Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning thecombustion |
Many supercharged and high-compression gasoline burners use water
injection. The purpose is to lower the peak pre-ignition temperatures
in the combustion chamber, especially at high manifold pressures.
Any time you rapidly compress a gas such as air, you get a corresponding
temperature increase. If the air is already compressed, and heated, by
a supercharger (or turbocharger) when it enters the cylinder on the
intake stroke, the compression stroke in the cyclinder can cause the
temperature of the already-hot fuel/air mixture to reach the ignition
point, causing what we recognize as pinging. Injecting a small amount
of water into the intake stream cools it, hopefully enough so that the
spark plug gets the honor of igniting the mix.
Whether or not such engines are cleaner because of the injection, I
can't say.
Mike Hardaway
----- Original Message -----
From: Gordon Bowen
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil - Steam cleaning
thecombustion chamber
If memory serves me right, the old P-51 and some other piston driven
WWII prop fighters had a water injection system for their fuel. Not
sure about the science but worked for them with RRoyce engines etc..
Gordon
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
Several years ago when I owned a Stinson I met a fellow Stinson owner
who had a 108-3 that he bought new and had only 800TTSN and the engine
had never been touched. He said his secret was 1 qt. MMO in the oil at
each change. I talked about this once to my old high school auto shop
teacher who stays current on all things automotive since he still
teaches, He thought there might have been something to this in the 40's,
50,s and even the 60's when the oil back then was just basically oil.
Nothing else. Now days with all of the additives the oil co's have spent
millions on r&d and putting in oil the need for MMO has seen its days.
All of these additives are the reason cars now can get 250K miles with
few problems. My own Ford has 175K and still doesn't burn a drop between
3000 mi. oil changes. In the old days it would be on it's 3rd engine and
at that the 3rd. one probably be on it's last legs right now. We just
had an big engine rebuild shop go out of business here laying off 60
people. mostly because of modern oil. ------Building a Piet light-
Build a steel tube fuselage. ------The new Ultra Flight magazine ( June
issue ) has an article on building your own propeller.--- Newsletter:
I've always wondered if the internet has more or less eliminated the
news letter. In the past if you needed a question asked you sent a
letter to the news letter and waited 2 months for it to appear. Then if
someone answered the question threw the newsletter it could be another 2
months before you got to read it. This list is instantaneous. Some
thoughts... Leon Stefan In Ks. Do not archive
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: N502R's trip home |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Gene & Tammy" <zharvey@bellsouth.net>
Mike,
Thanks for the advice. This list has been great help all the way around.
Jack Phillips was kind enough to send me an account of his trip and I can't
put into words how much that helped. I really was not use to dealing with
the minimal climbing abilities of the Piet and I'm sure that I would have
thought there was somthing wrong with the plane. Having been prepared by
reading Jack's account I found everything about the Piet very enjoyable.
I plan on putting a lot of hours on this plane and having spent some 45
years in Alaska I don't think these Tennessee winters will stop me from
putting on a snow machine suit and enjoying some fine winter flying.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 8:06 AM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy
> <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
>
> Way to go, Gene !
>
> Glad to hear you brought your new plane home after your purchase and that
> all went well. You have to watch hot days with power lines and trees
>
> at the far end as you're right----she doesn't want to climb at a great
> rate.
>
> Good to hear your landings are getting better too. You really will get a
> touch for doing those and the 'view' you need to see in up front for
> things
>
> to work out. You should have some good open cockpit weather all the way
> up to the Thanksgiving timeframe in TN I'll bet.
>
> I have to stop flying around Halloween or so (ask Walt E. or others up
> yonder here) and hope for a few oddly nice weather days between then and
>
> May 1st here in Ohio.....but we get the good flying in while we can, just
> like folks who have boats or campers !
>
> Congratulations and don't be a stranger on the list !
>
> Mike C.
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: to add lightness, don't add things you don't need |
Mike,
You have a very great gift of encouragement. That last paragraph almost
brought tears to my eyes!!
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL
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Subject: | Re: Adding lightness |
Steve,
There is no secret. Just build to the plans. Most have the opinion,,,"how
can I change this, or how can I change that".
If you don't go there, you'll build light.
I only changed the aileron hinges to piano hinges,,,and slight mod on the
split gear where the "V" comes together down by the axle,,,and not much
more.
My empty weight was 595#
I can take my fat arse of 200# and a number of friends 200/225#, no problem.
Climb is a little slower, but no white knuckles.
But I see what the heavy guys go thru. When I fill the 14 gal nose tank ,
and the 10 gal wing tank, I'm up where you heavy guys are without a
passenger.
walt evans
NX140DL
PS anybody know this guy? :^)
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 9:45 AM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Steve Glass"
> <redsglass@hotmail.com>
>
> Hi everybody.
>
> As I am still compiling information and have not started building I'm
> wondering how to build light.
>
> I wonder if anybody has done a spreadsheet on weights. I have seen some
> weights for tails wings and fuselage but what about the little parts.
> Instruments wheels landing gear etc.
>
> What are you builders thoughts if you had to build again to minimize
> weight what would you target?
>
> Wood is the first thing but the glue and gusssets are what they are. I
> thought of rounding off all the stringers and longerons, improves looks,
> helps varnish stick, looks better shaves. some weight. Build short tail
> standard width minimum fuel tank and instruments. I would think finish is
> a big area of possible savings and always weight watchers for the pilot.
>
> What are the top ten things to do to add lightness. Lets hear your
> thoughts.
>
> Steve in Maine
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 23
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congratulations Gene on your purchase,and glad to hear you had agood trip
home. this is Randy Bush ,I'm the one Jack was telling you about with the piet
under construction near Lexington TN,I'm between Lexington and Jackson at exit
93 law rd.off I-40 youre welcome to stop in any time,just give me a call I'm
usually around on weekends 731 267 0578
Message 24
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Subject: | Re: Adding lightness |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
As Walt's featured 210 lb passenger, I can attest that the plane flies nicely with
a heavy payload :))
No white knuckles on me either Walt!
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=43662#43662
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Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil |
Gene
I have a A-65 and burn about 4.5 gph when flying around 2000 msl, better
burn at 3000 about 3.9 gph. I go back and forth between 100LL and
mogas. Just be sure there is no ethanol.
Has anyone ever taken a sniff of Marvel . Smells like Vasoline
Petroleum Jelly to me.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene & Tammy
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 2:17 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Marvel Mystery Oil
Boy, I sure hate to get involved in this discussing. Please don't
kill the messenger....I'm not pro or con on the subject, I'm just
relaying on information. Some folks kinda feel that talking about
Marvel Mystery Oil is like talking about their mother. You'd better
watch what you say.
On another site (Yahoo Avid Flyers) the subject was brought up a few
years ago as a number of folks use it in their two strokes. Someone
posted an excerp from a NTSB investigation that listed Marvel Myster Oil
as being made of Mineral Oil, Stoddard Salvent and Lard.
I really know very little about 4 stroke engines and everything I read
will be a big help for me. What kind of fuel burn does the rest of you
guys that fly behind a 65 Continental get? Are you using Av gas or auto
gas
Message 26
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Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil |
In a message dated 6/28/2006 11:15:55 AM Central Standard Time,
harvey.rule@bell.ca writes:
A long time ago some person told me that dripping water into the mouth of th
e
carburator while the engine is running also cleans it out.I have never tried
this and I=99m not even sure it would work.Hell for all I know it migh
t blow the
head of an engine but sometimes these old guys have some pretty weird ideas
that work.Anybody out there ever heard of this procedure or am I just blown
smoke here?
This method works on an engine that has excessive carbon buildup in the
combustion chamber, and under the intake valves...a condition caused by exce
ssive
rich mixture. The Hydrogen in the water is what softens the carbon, and ero
des
it away. I've used this method on the large trucks, with gas engines, I use
d
to work on. I've also used it on several automobile engines, and it helps
the engine run better, if it had the carbon build up.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
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