Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:50 AM - (Douwe Blumberg)
2. 06:13 AM - FGM blurry plans (Bill Church)
3. 06:26 AM - A65 oil screen removal (Oscar Zuniga)
4. 06:46 AM - Re: FGM blurry plans (Catdesign)
5. 06:58 AM - Re: FGM blurry plans (Jack T. Textor)
6. 07:22 AM - Glenn Thomas (John Hofmann)
7. 07:22 AM - screen removal (Michael D Cuy)
8. 07:37 AM - Re: FGM blurry plans (Bill Church)
9. 07:42 AM - Re: FGM blurry plans (Bill Church)
10. 08:07 AM - Re: FGM blurry plans Textors project good pics of jigs (amsafetyc@aol.com)
11. 08:30 AM - FGM blurry plans (M&M Stanley)
12. 09:31 AM - Re: Glenn Thomas (Glenn Thomas)
13. 10:58 AM - Re: Marvel Mystery Oil OFF LIST (can Delete) (Gary Gower)
14. 01:12 PM - Re: A65 oil screen removal (walt evans)
15. 04:09 PM - Re: (no subject) (Gene & Tammy)
16. 06:49 PM - (no subject) (RBush96589@aol.com)
17. 10:31 PM - Re: screen removal (Graham Hansen)
Message 1
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thanks everybody!
HVLP it is, seems like a big milestone
Message 2
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| Subject: | FGM blurry plans |
Hey everyone,
I have just recently changed my mind regarding the style of landing gear
to put on my Air Camper (when I get to that stage). I had been going to
go with the split gear, with springs instead of bungees, and big fat air
tires (similar to what Ken Perkins has on his plane), but now I'm almost
positive I'm going to go with Jenny style straight axle wood gear and
motorcycle wheels. Why am I bothering you guys with this? Well, I was
looking over the plans in my copy of the Flying and Glider Manual for
details about this gear, and I'll be darned if I can make out the fine
print. The quality of the printing leaves something to be desired (like
readability). I realize that most of the dimensions will need to be
"tweaked" to match what I build, but I can't even make out the gages of
the steel. Why did they reprint that stuff so small? Anyone that has
managed to build and successfully fly a plane from those plans deserves
extra credit. So, here are my questions; Is my copy worse than most, or
is everyone's FGM printing blurry? Does anyone out there have a clearly
legible copy of those landing gear plans? Are the thicknesses of the
steel 12 gage for the lower turnbuckle fitting and the wing strut
fitting, and 16 gage for all the other parts? (at least that would be a
starting point).
Thanks,
Bill C.
Message 3
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| Subject: | A65 oil screen removal |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Anybody have handy tips for removing the big nut that holds the oil screen
into the A65 rear case? These old engines have been serviced so many
hundreds of times by so many people that most of them have one or more
corners rounded off of the square head of the nut. Mine is that way and I
don't want to mess it up anymore than it is already. I put a Crescent
wrench on it and tried to loosen it, but no matter what I do it wants to
round the corners off and so I haven't pushed it. I know I need to service
the screen because it is so dusty flying in south Texas and I have a new
copper gasket for it ready to go if I can just get the nut off and the
screen out for cleaning.
I'm even thinking of trying to fabricate a special wrench with a square hole
so it can get a purchase on all four corners of the nut, but even that might
be iffy with these rounded corners. Any help appreciated.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: FGM blurry plans |
>Is my copy worse than most, or is everyone's FGM printing blurry?
No, they are very small and hard to read. Try blowing them up on a copy
machine, worked great for me. Or use a magnifying glass. You can also
scan it in at a high resolution and blow it up on the computer.
>Are the thickness of the steel 12 gage for the lower turnbuckle fitting
and the wing strut fitting, and 16 gage for all the other parts?
Lower Turnbuckle 12g
Wing Strut Fitting 12g
All others appear to be 16g
Cross Tube 3/4"x20g
1/2x16g steel strip full width of fuselage (on top of cross brace)
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Church
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 6:16 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: FGM blurry plans
Hey everyone,
I have just recently changed my mind regarding the style of landing
gear to put on my Air Camper (when I get to that stage). I had been
going to go with the split gear, with springs instead of bungees, and
big fat air tires (similar to what Ken Perkins has on his plane), but
now I'm almost positive I'm going to go with Jenny style straight axle
wood gear and motorcycle wheels. Why am I bothering you guys with this?
Well, I was looking over the plans in my copy of the Flying and Glider
Manual for details about this gear, and I'll be darned if I can make out
the fine print. The quality of the printing leaves something to be
desired (like readability). I realize that most of the dimensions will
need to be "tweaked" to match what I build, but I can't even make out
the gages of the steel. Why did they reprint that stuff so small? Anyone
that has managed to build and successfully fly a plane from those plans
deserves extra credit. So, here are my questions;
Bill C.
Message 5
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| Subject: | FGM blurry plans |
Bill,
Mine aren't too bad, it clearly shows 12 gauge for the strut and
turnbuckle fittings. The V fittings show 16. I enlarged a copy that
came out pretty well, if you want me to send a copy, let me know.
Jack Textor
Des Moines
www.textors.com <http://www.textors.com/>
Hey everyone,
I have just recently changed my mind regarding the style of landing gear
to put on my Air Camper (when I get to that stage). I had been going to
go with the split gear, with springs instead of bungees, and big fat air
tires (similar to what Ken Perkins has on his plane), but now I'm almost
positive I'm going to go with Jenny style straight axle wood gear and
motorcycle wheels. Why am I bothering you guys with this? Well, I was
looking over the plans in my copy of the Flying and Glider Manual for
details about this gear, and I'll be darned if I can make out the fine
print. The quality of the printing leaves something to be desired (like
readability). I realize that most of the dimensions will need to be
"tweaked" to match what I build, but I can't even make out the gages of
the steel. Why did they reprint that stuff so small? Anyone that has
managed to build and successfully fly a plane from those plans deserves
extra credit. So, here are my questions; Is my copy worse than most, or
is everyone's FGM printing blurry? Does anyone out there have a clearly
legible copy of those landing gear plans? Are the thicknesses of the
steel 12 gage for the lower turnbuckle fitting and the wing strut
fitting, and 16 gage for all the other parts? (at least that would be a
starting point).
Thanks,
Bill C.
Message 6
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: John Hofmann <jhofmann@reesgroupinc.com>
For Glenn,
I sent you an email but our servers are having trouble talking. Do you have
an alternate email address? Contact me offline.
-john-
Do not archive
Message 7
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Michael D Cuy <Michael.D.Cuy@grc.nasa.gov>
Oscar---I had the same problem with my engine when I overhauled it
and give a propane torch a try to gently heat up the threaded area before
trying to loosen it. I purchased a big (forget what size, 1" 1.5" ?)
open end wrench and keep it in the hangar for my screen cleanings.
Once you get the oil screen off, be ready with a rag or paper towels as the
screen housing will drain out some in the removal process.
Once you have the screen out what I do is to drain some avgas/autogas from
your gascolator into a small coffee can. Swish the screen
in the gasoline and then drain the gasoline thru a Mr. Coffee (or like)
filter and let dry a bit.
Flatten out your filter in the sunlight (no wind) or under a shop lamp and
spread out the particles to see (what you'll see is a bunch of little
carbon particles mostly) I run a small magnet over the debris to see what
it might pickup. Pretty easy to see the shiny specks, if you have
any. My first screen change after overhaul netted some fibers from the
rags I used during final assy. even tho I was very careful about cleaning
and pre-lubing the parts before they went in.
Lastly--and this answers your question: take a file to the edges of your
oil screen flats and make them nice and sharp again so you can use
Mr. Cresent Wrench next time or for tightening up the screen. I filed my
flats down and things work much better after that for removal/installation.
Mike C.
At 08:26 AM 6/30/2006 -0500, you wrote:
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
>Anybody have handy tips for removing the big nut that holds the oil screen
>into the A65 rear case? These old engines have been serviced so many
>hundreds of times by so many people that most of them have one or more
>corners rounded off of the square head of the nut. Mine is that way and I
>don't want to mess it up anymore than it is already. I put a Crescent
>wrench on it and tried to loosen it, but no matter what I do it wants to
>round the corners off and so I haven't pushed it. I know I need to
>service the screen because it is so dusty flying in south Texas and I have
>a new copper gasket for it ready to go if I can just get the nut off and
>the screen out for cleaning.
>
>I'm even thinking of trying to fabricate a special wrench with a square
>hole so it can get a purchase on all four corners of the nut, but even
>that might be iffy with these rounded corners. Any help appreciated.
>
>Oscar Zuniga
>San Antonio, TX
>mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
>website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | FGM blurry plans |
Thank you, Chris,
Magnifying glass, copy machine, scanner - they will all take a tiny blob
of blurry ink and turn it into a bigger blob of blurry ink. My plans
aren't just small, they're fuzzy too.
The confirmation of the steel gages will definitely help. I should be
able to fudge my way through the rest of the dimensions.
How did all those people in the 1930's and later manage to successfully
build flying airplanes using only these plans, and without the
assistance of all you guys on this list. Hats off to them!
Bill C.
________________________________
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Catdesign
Sent: June 30, 2006 10:00 AM
>Is my copy worse than most, or is everyone's FGM printing blurry?
No, they are very small and hard to read. Try blowing them up on a copy
machine, worked great for me. Or use a magnifying glass. You can also
scan it in at a high resolution and blow it up on the computer.
>Are the thickness of the steel 12 gage for the lower turnbuckle fitting
and the wing strut fitting, and 16 gage for all the other parts?
Lower Turnbuckle 12g
Wing Strut Fitting 12g
All others appear to be 16g
Cross Tube 3/4"x20g
1/2x16g steel strip full width of fuselage (on top of cross brace)
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Message 9
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| Subject: | FGM blurry plans |
Thanks for the offer, Jack.
If you have a digital copy, I would very much appreciate a copy. If it's
a physical hard copy, and you're going to Brodhead, you could bring it,
and save the trouble and expense of mailing it to me.
Bill C.
________________________________
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack T.
Textor
Sent: June 30, 2006 10:16 AM
Bill,
Mine aren't too bad, it clearly shows 12 gauge for the strut and
turnbuckle fittings. The V fittings show 16. I enlarged a copy that
came out pretty well, if you want me to send a copy, let me know.
Jack Textor
Des Moines
www.textors.com <http://www.textors.com/>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: FGM blurry plans Textors project good pics of jigs |
http://www.textors.com/PietProject.html
-----Original Message-----
Sent: Fri, 30 Jun 2006 10:41:22 -0400
Thank you, Chris,
Magnifying glass, copy machine, scanner - they will all take a tiny blob of blurry
ink and turn it into a bigger blob of blurry ink. My plans aren't just small,
they're fuzzy too.
The confirmation of the steel gages will definitely help. I should be able to fudge
my way through the rest of the dimensions.
How did all those people in the 1930's and later manage to successfully build flying
airplanes using only these plans, and without the assistance of all you
guys on this list. Hats off to them!
Bill C.
Sent: June 30, 2006 10:00 AM
>Is my copy worse than most, or is everyone's FGM printing blurry?
No, they are very small and hard to read. Try blowing them up on a copy machine,
worked great for me. Or use a magnifying glass. You can also scan it in at
a high resolution and blow it up on the computer.
>Are the thickness of the steel 12 gage for the lower turnbuckle fitting and the
wing strut fitting, and 16 gage for all the other parts?
Lower Turnbuckle 12g
Wing Strut Fitting 12g
All others appear to be 16g
Cross Tube 3/4"x20g
1/2x16g steel strip full width of fuselage (on top of cross brace)
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
________________________________________________________________________
Message 11
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| Subject: | FGM blurry plans |
Hi Bill,
I would tend to agree with Chris, re the thickness'.
Mr.Mita here in Japan has a full size set of Jenny style u/c drawings.
I had a look and the thickness' on the drawings are the same as Chris noted.
>Are the thickness of the steel 12 gage for the lower turnbuckle fitting and
>the wing strut fitting, and 16 gage for all the other parts?
>Lower Turnbuckle 12g
>Wing Strut Fitting 12g
>All others appear to be 16g
>Cross Tube 3/4"x20g
>1/2x16g steel strip full width of fuselage (on top of cross brace)
The steel strip full width of fuselage (on top of cross brace), is not shown
on the drawings but it is mentioned in a copy of a page from 'EXPERIMENTER',
May1, possibly 1956.
B.H. Pietenpol reccomended (quote),
" In making up the fuselage landing gear fittings, make the strap go way
across the bottom. Where the flying struts are fastened to the wing,slant
the wing fittings at about the slant of the flying struts. Cub wing
fittings would work swell. Some sort of stop should be put on the controls".
(end quote).
The last bits are just for your info. May stir up some comments (?)
Hope it helps.
Mark Stanley
Japan
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Glenn Thomas |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
John,
I sent contact info. Did you get it? Don't know if the problem is on my end or
yours.
Thanks,
Glenn
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=43978#43978
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Marvel Mystery Oil OFF LIST (can Delete) |
Good Joke,
Hello Dick, Do not archive please!
Just couldnt resist, sorry list but is a good joke about Jelly:
I was caring for a woman and asked, "So how's your breakfast this morning?"
"It's very good, except for the Kentucky Jelly. I can't seem
to get used to the taste" the patient replied.
I then asked to see the jelly and the woman produced a foil packet labeled "KY
Jelly."
Submitted by Dr. Leonard Kransdorf, Detroit, MI
Saludos
Gary Gower
Normaly I dont send off subject mails... :-)
Dick Navratil <horzpool@goldengate.net> wrote: Gene
I have a A-65 and burn about 4.5 gph when flying around 2000 msl, better burn
at 3000 about 3.9 gph. I go back and forth between 100LL and mogas. Just
be sure there is no ethanol.
Has anyone ever taken a sniff of Marvel . Smells like Vasoline Petroleum Jelly
to me.
Dick
---------------------------------
Everyone is raving about the all-new Yahoo! Mail Beta.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: A65 oil screen removal |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "walt evans" <waltdak@verizon.net>
Oscar,
Isn't that the one that's left hand thread? (lefty-loosy,righty-tighty,
doesn't pertain)
walt evans
NX140DL
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Friday, June 30, 2006 9:26 AM
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Oscar Zuniga"
> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> Anybody have handy tips for removing the big nut that holds the oil screen
> into the A65 rear case? These old engines have been serviced so many
> hundreds of times by so many people that most of them have one or more
> corners rounded off of the square head of the nut. Mine is that way and I
> don't want to mess it up anymore than it is already. I put a Crescent
> wrench on it and tried to loosen it, but no matter what I do it wants to
> round the corners off and so I haven't pushed it. I know I need to
> service the screen because it is so dusty flying in south Texas and I have
> a new copper gasket for it ready to go if I can just get the nut off and
> the screen out for cleaning.
>
> I'm even thinking of trying to fabricate a special wrench with a square
> hole so it can get a purchase on all four corners of the nut, but even
> that might be iffy with these rounded corners. Any help appreciated.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> http://wiki.matronics.com
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: (no subject) |
Randy,
Great to hear from you. I would love to see your project and meet you.
I will call before I come & make sure it is a good time for you.
I just returned home after going back down to Florida/Georgia line
(Thomasville) to get my pickup truck that I had left at the airport. It
was all worth it. I loved the trip and the Pietenpol!.
Haven't even had the time to go out to the airport to wipe the oil off
from where I had an oil leak. Will do that tomorrow.
When you have the time, would love to show off my new plane.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: RBush96589@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 28, 2006 7:30 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: (no subject)
congratulations Gene on your purchase,and glad to hear you had agood
trip home. this is Randy Bush ,I'm the one Jack was telling you about
with the piet under construction near Lexington TN,I'm between Lexington
and Jackson at exit 93 law rd.off I-40 youre welcome to stop in any
time,just give me a call I'm usually around on weekends 731 267 0578
Message 16
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Hi Rob,
we met last year at brodhead ,Ithink it was while we were looking
at Jack's plane just after he and Mike got there,by the way Mike no apology
needed.see you guys at brodhead.
Robert (Randy) Bush
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: screen removal |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Graham Hansen" <grhans@cable-lynx.net>
Group,
A Crescent Wrench (the British call it an "adjustable spanner") is not the
best tool to use on the oil screen. In fact, its use is the main reason why
so many of these oil screens have rounded corners.
But if the Crescent wrench is a good one (not sloppy), it won't damage the
corners--provided its jaws are tightened and held 90 degrees to the axis of
the screen.
The best tool for the small Continental oil screens is one you can make
yourself. It will have two square holes in a piece of of 1/4" steel. One is
1" square and the other is 3/8" square, about 1" apart. The outside can be
shaped into a sort-of tear drop. Using a 3/8" drive ratchet, one can usually
manage to remove or tighten the oil screen quite easily without running up
against the engine mount, etc.
Some folks use too much torque and flatten the crush washer. Then when it
leaks, they tighten it some more--and it then becomes difficult to loosen.
Mike's suggestion to heat the oil screen housing becomes necessary.
So don't over-torque this item lest you ruin the crush washer and create
removal problems. "Oil tight" is the term I have seen that specifies the
proper torque (a pretty "loose" specification which may not mean the same
thing to everybody).
Graham Hansen (Pietenpol CF-AUN)
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