Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:26 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (RAMPEYBOY@aol.com)
     2. 05:26 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (Skip-Cinda Gadd)
     3. 07:14 AM - proper prop for A-75 piet (Andimaxd@aol.com)
     4. 07:24 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (Rcaprd@aol.com)
     5. 07:30 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (RAMPEYBOY@aol.com)
     6. 07:34 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (Rcaprd@aol.com)
     7. 09:14 AM - Re: proper prop for A-75 piet (Dick Navratil)
     8. 10:45 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (Rick Holland)
     9. 11:14 AM - Re: Fuse construction (Gene Rambo)
    10. 11:38 AM - Re: Fuse construction ()
    11. 11:20 PM - Re: Fuse construction (Dick Navratil)
    12. 11:24 PM - Re: proper prop for A-75 piet (Rcaprd@aol.com)
    13. 11:46 PM - Re: Fuse construction / Bartlesville Flight (Rcaprd@aol.com)
 
 
 
Message 1
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      
      In a message dated 9/22/2006 11:34:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
      Rcaprd@aol.com writes:
      
      That  energy has to be absorbed somewhere, and that cross piece is the  place
      
      
      Chuck I'm no engineer, but what you said there got me thinking. Maybe this  
      energy should be absorbed by bowing this metal cross piece? If you stiffen this
      
       piece, then does some more critical (or more difficult to replace/repair) 
      part  then have to take the load? Food for thought...
      Boyce
      
Message 2
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      Chuck,
      I have seen this strap bent down on several Piets at Brodhead.
      What I believe happens is, you have end grain of a hard wood, ash cross piece,
      pushing into side grain of soft wood spruce, lower longerons. Grega noticed this
      and changed from a strap, tension only to a U-channel, tension and compression.
      It is one on the Grega mods I am adopting for my Piet. I am using 4130 rectangular
      tube, because it is lighter than any U-channel I could find.
      
      Hope you have great weather for Bartlesville, the Wx here is scud and storms.
      
      Skip, Hales Landing WV
      
      
      -----     A hard landing applies a lot of negative G's to the lift strut, as well
      as when the landing gear bottoms out, pushes that cross piece into a bow away
      from the belly.  That energy has to be absorbed somewhere, and that cross piece
      is the place.  I've seen this on several other Pietenpols, too.  The problem
      seems to be isolated to the front one.  I now have three #10 bolts down through
      the ash cross piece and this steel cross brace, and just this evening, I
      see where it has bent down a little bit between two of these bolts.  I must have
      logged well over 500 landings in my plane, and I obviously still bounce one
      in once in a while !!
      
         Chuck G.
      NX770CG
      Smokin' to Bartlesville in the morning !!
      
Message 3
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| Subject:  | proper prop for A-75 piet | 
      
      Hey guys,
      
      I have become a lurker, but, I need some feedback from you guys on  props.  I 
      have a prop off of a 65hp Aeronica mounted to my A-75  piet.  I'm developing 
      2300-2400 rpm's.  I was curious what others are  using with their piets with 
      A-75's and what kind of number they're  getting.  I was visiting with Jim 
      Markle and he dug this up for  me:  
      
      An A-75 is merely an A-65 that is rated at a higher rpm. The pistons are  
      different and the rods are drilled for extra cooling of piston skirt at the  
      higher rpm. The carb has a slightly larger venturi and different jetting. The 
      
      motor is timed slightly different. The prop is the only thing that actually  
      makes a difference in performance; the other changes are only for longevity at
      
      higher rpm. A65 is rated at 2300,2150 cruise. A75 is rated at 2650,2300 cruise.
      
      The extra rpm is the only thing increasing horsepower: if your prop is not  
      allowing the motor to wind up to proper rpm you simply have an A65. If you have
      
       an A65 that turns 23-2400 in a climb you have the performance of an A75. 
      There  was a C-75 which was a slow running version of C-85, but A65 to A75 
      conversions  are much more common. A75 prop generally would be slightly less 
      diameter and 2-3  inches less pitch than A65, but generally rpm is the only big
      
      change. With  proper prop A75 will climb slightly better and cruise about same
      as 
      A65, but at  higher rpm.With an A65 prop an A75 will climb exactly the 
      same(because it is the  same!) but you could cruise at 2300 which would be several
      mph 
      faster.  Regardless, in the real world the weight of the airplane will make 
      more  difference than A65 vs. A75. In my opinion a metal prop is far superior 
      to wood  in thrust. Wood has less inertia and better throttle response, but 
      metal  definitely performs better. I like an A65 to turn about 2300 in 75 mph 
      climb.  That means about 25-2600 straight and level. Cruise about 2250 and you
      
      are still  less than 75% at cruise. 
      P. S. There was no C65 only A65's .A series was  A40,A50, A65,A75,and A80. C 
      series had slightly more displacement(188 cu .in. vs  173 cu. in.). C series 
      was C75,C85 at 188 cu.in.and C90 at 200 cu .in.
      
      All that being said, I would like some exact performance numbers, prop  
      numbers and manufactures, so I'll know what to start looking for.   Currently I
      
      have a Univar 72 X 42, and according to the above I've got a 65hp  engine on my
      
      aero plane.  NX101XW is a little on the heavy side and so is  the pilot, so I 
      would like all of the potential climb that I can get (Without  going to an 
      O-200 or something!).  I think I would like to stick with a  wooden prop, unless
      
      there is just a huge amount of additional thrust/climb from  metal.  Well, let
      
      me know what you guys think, hell, maybe I should just  stick with what I've 
      got.  It (engine) would be de-rated and should last  longer?
      
      Any comments/help is greatly appreciated and as usual, thanks in advance,  
      later.
      
      Max Davis
      Arlington, TX.
      NX101XW (Reserved)
      
Message 4
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      In a message dated 9/23/2006 6:29:54 AM Central Standard Time, 
      RAMPEYBOY@aol.com writes:
      That energy has to be absorbed somewhere, and that cross piece is the place
      Chuck I'm no engineer, but what you said there got me thinking. Maybe this 
      energy should be absorbed by bowing this metal cross piece? If you stiffen this
      
      piece, then does some more critical (or more difficult to replace/repair) part
      
      then have to take the load? Food for thought...
      Boyce
          Yes, you certainly are right about the energy being absorbed by another 
      part.  However, bowing the cross piece is NOT the answer, because then you will
      
      be wallowing out the bolt holes at the lug fittings.  I think this cross 
      piece is just the weakest link, and the robust design of the Pietenpol can 
      certainly handle the load, wherever it is transferred.
          The whole trick is...to land as softly as a Butterfly with sore feet !!   
      :)
      
      Chuck G.
      NX770CG
      
Message 5
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      
      In a message dated 9/23/2006 10:26:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
      Rcaprd@aol.com writes:
      
      The  whole trick is...to land as softly as a Butterfly with sore feet  !!   :)
      
      
      We do that all the time don't we?? I mean when nobody is  watching!
      
Message 6
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      In a message dated 9/23/2006 7:29:15 AM Central Standard Time, 
      csfog@earthlink.net writes:
      Chuck,
      I have seen this strap bent down on several Piets at Brodhead.
      What I believe happens is, you have end grain of a hard wood, ash cross 
      piece, pushing into side grain of soft wood spruce, lower longerons. Grega noticed
      
      this and changed from a strap, tension only to a U-channel, tension and 
      compression. It is one on the Grega mods I am adopting for my Piet. I am using
      4130 
      rectangular tube, because it is lighter than any U-channel I could find.
      
      Hope you have great weather for Bartlesville, the Wx here is scud and storms.
      
      Skip, Hales Landing WV
      I agree with ya, Skip.  I think you have a good mod there, just so the 
      rectangle tube isn't very wide on the minor axis, and the wall thickness doesn't
      
      have to be as thick as the strap, either.  
      I sure do miss those West Virginia hills !!  Hey...WVU is kickin' butt in 
      football !!  
      GO MOUNTAINEERS !!!
      
      Chuck G.
      NX770CG
      
Message 7
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| Subject:  | Re: proper prop for A-75 piet | 
      
      You said a whole lot more than I ever knew on this subject, thanks a lot 
      for the info.  ai have an A-65 with a Sensenich 72x42 prop.
      The only problem I have with your numbers is towards the end you talk 
      about the performance of the A-65.  I checked my manual, the A-65 is 
      only rated to 2300 rpm.  If I do 2300 rpm at 75 mph there is little if 
      any climb. My best climb speed is around 55-60 mph and then I am turning 
      about 2050 rpm, full throttle. I have never seen more than 2300 rpm.
      Dick N.
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Andimaxd@aol.com 
        To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
        Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 9:13 AM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: proper prop for A-75 piet
      
      
        Hey guys,
      
        I have become a lurker, but, I need some feedback from you guys on 
      props.  I have a prop off of a 65hp Aeronica mounted to my A-75 piet.  
      I'm developing 2300-2400 rpm's.  I was curious what others are using 
      with their piets with A-75's and what kind of number they're getting.  I 
      was visiting with Jim Markle and he dug this up for me:  
      
        An A-75 is merely an A-65 that is rated at a higher rpm. The pistons 
      are different and the rods are drilled for extra cooling of piston skirt 
      at the higher rpm. The carb has a slightly larger venturi and different 
      jetting. The motor is timed slightly different. The prop is the only 
      thing that actually makes a difference in performance; the other changes 
      are only for longevity at higher rpm. A65 is rated at 2300,2150 cruise. 
      A75 is rated at 2650,2300 cruise. The extra rpm is the only thing 
      increasing horsepower: if your prop is not allowing the motor to wind up 
      to proper rpm you simply have an A65. If you have an A65 that turns 
      23-2400 in a climb you have the performance of an A75. There was a C-75 
      which was a slow running version of C-85, but A65 to A75 conversions are 
      much more common. A75 prop generally would be slightly less diameter and 
      2-3 inches less pitch than A65, but generally rpm is the only big 
      change. With proper prop A75 will climb slightly better and cruise about 
      same as A65, but at higher rpm.With an A65 prop an A75 will climb 
      exactly the same(because it is the same!) but you could cruise at 2300 
      which would be several mph faster. Regardless, in the real world the 
      weight of the airplane will make more difference than A65 vs. A75. In my 
      opinion a metal prop is far superior to wood in thrust. Wood has less 
      inertia and better throttle response, but metal definitely performs 
      better. I like an A65 to turn about 2300 in 75 mph climb. That means 
      about 25-2600 straight and level. Cruise about 2250 and you are still 
      less than 75% at cruise. 
        P. S. There was no C65 only A65's .A series was A40,A50, A65,A75,and 
      A80. C series had slightly more displacement(188 cu .in. vs 173 cu. 
      in.). C series was C75,C85 at 188 cu.in.and C90 at 200 cu .in.
      
        All that being said, I would like some exact performance numbers, prop 
      numbers and manufactures, so I'll know what to start looking for.  
      Currently I have a Univar 72 X 42, and according to the above I've got a 
      65hp engine on my aero plane.  NX101XW is a little on the heavy side and 
      so is the pilot, so I would like all of the potential climb that I can 
      get (Without going to an O-200 or something!).  I think I would like to 
      stick with a wooden prop, unless there is just a huge amount of 
      additional thrust/climb from metal.  Well, let me know what you guys 
      think, hell, maybe I should just stick with what I've got.  It (engine) 
      would be de-rated and should last longer?
      
        Any comments/help is greatly appreciated and as usual, thanks in 
      advance, later.
      
        Max Davis
        Arlington, TX.
        NX101XW (Reserved)
      
      
Message 8
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      Skip
      
      I have also built a hybrid main gear using the Piet and GN-1 plans. The
      fuselage gear fittings are straight Pietenpol and the gear tubing and cabane
      are based on the GN-1 plans, and I added spring struts. So I also have the
      2" wide strap between the gear fittings. I noticed yesterday that with the
      fuse sitting on the gear without an engine and me (about 450 lbs. of dead
      weight) the front strap is already bowed a little away from the fuselage.
      
      What if a piece of rectangular tubing (as long as would fit between the
      fittings) was welded along the two inch strap? Probably only on the front
      strap since the back doesn't seem to have the problem.  Were you thinking of
      something like this Skip or are you also building the GN-1 gear fittings?
      
      Rick H.
      
      On 9/23/06, Skip-Cinda Gadd <csfog@earthlink.net> wrote:
      >
      >  Chuck,
      > I have seen this strap bent down on several Piets at Brodhead.
      > What I believe happens is, you have end grain of a hard wood, ash cross
      > piece, pushing into side grain of soft wood spruce, lower longerons. Grega
      > noticed this and changed from a strap, tension only to a U-channel, tension
      > and compression. It is one on the Grega mods I am adopting for my Piet. I am
      > using 4130 rectangular tube, because it is lighter than any U-channel I
      > could find.
      >
      > Hope you have great weather for Bartlesville, the Wx here is scud and
      > storms.
      >
      > Skip, Hales Landing WV
      >
      >
      > -----     A hard landing applies a lot of negative G's to the lift strut,
      > as well as when the landing gear bottoms out, pushes that cross piece into a
      > bow away from the belly.  That energy has to be absorbed somewhere, and that
      > cross piece is the place.  I've seen this on several other Pietenpols, too.
      > The problem seems to be isolated to the front one.  I now have three #10
      > bolts down through the ash cross piece and this steel cross brace, and just
      > this evening, I see where it has bent down a little bit between two of these
      > bolts.  I must have logged well over 500 landings in my plane, and I
      > obviously still bounce one in once in a while !!
      >
      >    Chuck G.
      > NX770CG
      > Smokin' to Bartlesville in the morning !!
      >
      > **
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      > *
      >
      >
      
      
      -- 
      Rick Holland
      
      "Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
      
Message 9
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      Dan:
      
      Two of THE most talked about bugaboos with the fuselage that have not 
      been mentioned yet are:
      
      (1) decide on your gear type and location BEFORE building.  Retrofitting 
      the Jenny style gear to the '32 fuselage or later is a bear;
      
      (2) make SURE you understand the construction of the tailpost.  Read it, 
      draw it, read it again.  Too many people have glued in two 1/2 inch 
      pieces and tried to pull them together.  It does not work like that. 
      Even after several readings, it is more difficult in practice than it 
      looks.
      
      As for the discussion that has made it into this thread regarding the 
      steel strap across the belly, I maintain that it is not SUPPOSED to take 
      any compression loads and does not need to be square stock or anything 
      else.  There is nothing wrong with a wooden fuselage or any other 
      component flexing on landing.  The strap was added as an afterthought, 
      and only as an optional suggestion per the plans, as a safety device to 
      tie the struts together in case the bolts pulled out of the fuselage. at 
      the gear/strut fitting.  The wood, metal, workmanship, and maintenance 
      and upkeep of amateur builders in the 1930's was such that a rotten 
      longeron or two was not out of the question.  The quality materials and 
      workmanship we have on this list, I believe, negates any need for that 
      strap.  I am not going to install it, just something else to bow, 
      corrode, hold moisture against the wood, and look bad.
      
      Just my two cents worth.
      
      Gene
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Dan Loegering<mailto:danl@odayequipment.com> 
        To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com> 
        Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 9:08 AM
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
      
      
        --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dan Loegering" 
      <danl@odayequipment.com<mailto:danl@odayequipment.com>>
      
        Since it has been rather quiet out here lately, I thought I'd post a 
      building question to see what kind of tips everyone has.
      
        We should have wood for the fuselages arriving within a week or two 
      and will start construction on fuse sides shortly after that.  The 
      question is... Were there any points during building the fuselage that 
      you were stumped at, or that were not entirely clear - and if so, what 
      did you do to resolve the problem you encountered.
      
        A short history - There are currently two Piet's being constructed 
      locally, with a third to start as soon as the wood shows up.  The first 
      two are progressing nicely with all wing ribs complete, and all tail 
      surfaces complete.  Both will be powered by A65-8 engines. The third 
      will begin rib construction and he hasn't decided on engine choice yet.  
      Of the two currently under construction, we are planning on the long 
      fuselage version - one at stock 24" width, and one either 26" or 28".  
      Both will have the "Cub" style gear.
      
        So, relive your building days!  What did you enjoy, what did you find 
      challenging, what did you hate...
      
        Of course the reward will come when we are finished, and some day all 
      three of us fly to Brodhead in loose formation!
      
        Dan Loegering
        Fargo, ND
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List<http://www.matronics.co
      m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
      
      
      http://www.matronics.com/contribution<http://www.matronics.com/contributi
      on>
      
      
Message 10
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Fuse construction | 
      
      Amen to that partner.I'm calling mine a Piet no matter what.When it
      comes down to some conversation about the plane ,just standin around
      shootin the bull ,then I might add in"oh ya it has some Grega mods in
      there too" and I'll bet there won't be anyone that will say"well you
      can't call that a Piet now",When you go to the museum and you see a
      Wright flyer there representing the first flight ,you don't say"that's
      not a Wright flyer" because the very first one doesn't exist anymore.It
      was wrecked in a crash and they never fixed it or rebuilt the same
      model.From then on it evolved.Evolusion is good for Piets sake!
      
      
      ________________________________
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon
      Bowen
      Sent: September 22, 2006 4:16 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
      
      
      I don't think anyone actually builds the exact plane that Pietenpol
      designed, too many modern materials available and necessary.  Afterall
      who'd want to use a tractor mag when there are better options, or grade
      3 bolts.  Same goes for the original Rutan designs for the Varieze and
      Longeze, every builder adds or subtracts their own mods.  That's why
      it's called experimental.  But we still have the purist out there that
      insist it ain't a Piete unless it is build just like Bernard did,  fer
      git abouut it dreamers.  N-1003B's 4130 fuselage, 0-235Lycosauros engine
      and Aeronca wings, flies just fine thanks.  Got $5 bucks that says my
      "Piete" can beat anyone out there's Piete in time to climb to 3000' agl,
      even the purist, how about Lakeland in Apr07.  Better materials make
      better planes, just like the Papa John's Pizza commercial.  Think
      Bernard would appreciate the improvements and still be proud to stick
      his name on the design.
      
      Gordon Bowen
      
      
      	----- Original Message ----- 
      
      	From: harvey.rule@bell.ca 
      
      	To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
      
      	Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 11:04 AM
      
      	Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
      
      	 
      
      	When does the plane actually begin to become a gn-1 ?Is it after
      the first mod or the last one?A Rose by any other name is still a
      Rose.So it is with the Pietenpol.Mine has gn-1 mods but the plans still
      say Pietenpol.People who see it say "oh you have a Pietenpol".I don't
      correct them and say it is a gn-1,that would be rude.I think,you know
      your absolutely right ,it is a Pietenpol,you get a gummy bear!
      
      	 
      
      
      ________________________________
      
      
      	From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
      Church
      	Sent: September 22, 2006 2:48 PM
      	To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
      	Subject: FW: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
      
      	 
      
      	 
      
      	<<20060917_134.JPG>> 
      
      	I think the key word here is "style". Cub style gear, not actual
      Cub gear. 
      	The 1933/34 improved Pietenpol Air Camper plans show a split
      axle "Cub style" landing gear. The GN-1 was designed to use actual Piper
      Cub landing gear. So it is possible to have an authentic Pietenpol Air
      Camper with Cub style gear. You need to go back to the Flying and Glider
      plans to get the straight axle "Jenny style" gear. And that is authentic
      Pietenpol too, since it's not actual Jenny gear either.
      
      	Speaking of landing gear, I was at an open house for the Tiger
      Boys, up in Guelph, Ontario (Canada) last weekend (got a short ride in a
      deHavilland Tiger Moth, piloted by a Hatz builder - that was cool). A
      couple of WW1 replicas flew in from nearby Brampton - a Fokker DR-1 and
      an S.E.5a. The S.E.5a had interesting landing gear (see photo attached).
      It appears to be varnished wood, similar to the Jenny-style Pietenpol
      gear, but if you look closely, you'll notice that it's actually
      streamlined steel tubing, painted to look like wood. This same technique
      could be applied to the Pietenpol Cub STYLE gear, giving the strength of
      steel, and the look of wood.
      
      	Bill C. 
      
      	 
      
      	-----Original Message----- 
      	Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction 
      
      	--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Roman Bukolt" 
      	--> <conceptmodels@tds.net> 
      
      	Cub style gear??   Those must be GN-1's not Pietenpol.   The
      GN-1 is a 
      	modified Pietenpol with enough changes to no longer be called a
      Pietenpol. 
      
      	 
      
      	 
      	 
      	ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      	 
      
      
Message 11
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction | 
      
      Gene and all
      Tell me if I am wrong here in thinking that since I am using the Jenny 
      type LG, these issues dont apply.  The cross brace wires and the bungees 
      absorbing shock straight upwards shouldn't cause compression loading in 
      the same way.  Am I correct about that?
      Dick N.
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Gene Rambo 
        To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
        Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 1:06 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
      
      
        Dan:
      
        Two of THE most talked about bugaboos with the fuselage that have not 
      been mentioned yet are:
      
        (1) decide on your gear type and location BEFORE building.  
      Retrofitting the Jenny style gear to the '32 fuselage or later is a 
      bear;
      
        (2) make SURE you understand the construction of the tailpost.  Read 
      it, draw it, read it again.  Too many people have glued in two 1/2 inch 
      pieces and tried to pull them together.  It does not work like that. 
      Even after several readings, it is more difficult in practice than it 
      looks.
      
        As for the discussion that has made it into this thread regarding the 
      steel strap across the belly, I maintain that it is not SUPPOSED to take 
      any compression loads and does not need to be square stock or anything 
      else.  There is nothing wrong with a wooden fuselage or any other 
      component flexing on landing.  The strap was added as an afterthought, 
      and only as an optional suggestion per the plans, as a safety device to 
      tie the struts together in case the bolts pulled out of the fuselage. at 
      the gear/strut fitting.  The wood, metal, workmanship, and maintenance 
      and upkeep of amateur builders in the 1930's was such that a rotten 
      longeron or two was not out of the question.  The quality materials and 
      workmanship we have on this list, I believe, negates any need for that 
      strap.  I am not going to install it, just something else to bow, 
      corrode, hold moisture against the wood, and look bad.
      
        Just my two cents worth.
      
        Gene
          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: Dan Loegering 
          To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
          Sent: Friday, September 22, 2006 9:08 AM
          Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
      
      
          --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dan Loegering" 
      <danl@odayequipment.com>
      
          Since it has been rather quiet out here lately, I thought I'd post a 
      building question to see what kind of tips everyone has.
      
          We should have wood for the fuselages arriving within a week or two 
      and will start construction on fuse sides shortly after that.  The 
      question is... Were there any points during building the fuselage that 
      you were stumped at, or that were not entirely clear - and if so, what 
      did you do to resolve the problem you encountered.
      
          A short history - There are currently two Piet's being constructed 
      locally, with a third to start as soon as the wood shows up.  The first 
      two are progressing nicely with all wing ribs complete, and all tail 
      surfaces complete.  Both will be powered by A65-8 engines. The third 
      will begin rib construction and he hasn't decided on engine choice yet.  
      Of the two currently under construction, we are planning on the long 
      fuselage version - one at stock 24" width, and one either 26" or 28".  
      Both will have the "Cub" style gear.
      
          So, relive your building days!  What did you enjoy, what did you 
      find challenging, what did you hate...
      
          Of course the reward will come when we are finished, and some day 
      all three of us fly to Brodhead in loose formation!
      
          Dan Loegering
          Fargo, nbsp;       Features Subscriptions 
      title=http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List p;   available 
      via title=http://forums.matronics.com/ 
      -========================
      nbsp;        Email List title=http://wiki.matronics.com/ nbsp;      
      generous bsp;                    
      title=http://www.matronics.com/contribution 
      ================
      
      
Message 12
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| Subject:  | Re: proper prop for A-75 piet | 
      
      In a message dated 9/23/2006 9:21:49 AM Central Standard Time, 
      Andimaxd@aol.com writes:
      Hey guys,
      
      I have become a lurker, but, I need some feedback from you guys on props.  I 
      have a prop off of a 65hp Aeronica mounted to my A-75 piet.  I'm developing 
      2300-2400 rpm's.  I was curious what others are using with their piets with 
      A-75's and what kind of number they're getting.  I was visiting with Jim Markle
      
      and he dug this up for me:  
      
      An A-75 is merely an A-65 that is rated at a higher rpm. The pistons are 
      different and the rods are drilled for extra cooling of piston skirt at the higher
      
      rpm. The carb has a slightly larger venturi and different jetting. The motor 
      is timed slightly different. The prop is the only thing that actually makes a 
      difference in performance; the other changes are only for longevity at higher 
      rpm. A65 is rated at 2300,2150 cruise. A75 is rated at 2650,2300 cruise. The 
      extra rpm is the only thing increasing horsepower: if your prop is not allowing
      
      the motor to wind up to proper rpm you simply have an A65. If you have an A65 
      that turns 23-2400 in a climb you have the performance of an A75. There was a 
      C-75 which was a slow running version of C-85, but A65 to A75 conversions are 
      much more common. A75 prop generally would be slightly less diameter and 2-3 
      inches less pitch than A65, but generally rpm is the only big change. With 
      proper prop A75 will climb slightly better and cruise about same as A65, but at
      
      higher rpm.With an A65 prop an A75 will climb exactly the same(because it is 
      the same!) but you could cruise at 2300 which would be several mph faster. 
      Regardless, in the real world the weight of the airplane will make more difference
      
      than A65 vs. A75. In my opinion a metal prop is far superior to wood in 
      thrust. Wood has less inertia and better throttle response, but metal definitely
      
      performs better. I like an A65 to turn about 2300 in 75 mph climb. That means 
      about 25-2600 straight and level. Cruise about 2250 and you are still less than
      
      75% at cruise. 
      P. S. There was no C65 only A65's .A series was A40,A50, A65,A75,and A80. C 
      series had slightly more displacement(188 cu .in. vs 173 cu. in.). C series was
      
      C75,C85 at 188 cu.in.and C90 at 200 cu .in.
      
      All that being said, I would like some exact performance numbers, prop 
      numbers and manufactures, so I'll know what to start looking for.  Currently I
      have 
      a Univar 72 X 42, and according to the above I've got a 65hp engine on my aero
      
      plane.  NX101XW is a little on the heavy side and so is the pilot, so I would 
      like all of the potential climb that I can get (Without going to an O-200 or 
      something!).  I think I would like to stick with a wooden prop, unless there 
      is just a huge amount of additional thrust/climb from metal.  Well, let me know
      
      what you guys think, hell, maybe I should just stick with what I've got.  It 
      (engine) would be de-rated and should last longer?
      
      Any comments/help is greatly appreciated and as usual, thanks in advance, 
      later.
      
      Max Davis
      Arlington, TX.
      NX101XW (Reserved)
      Hey Max,
          That was a great post, explaining the differences of the A65 & A 75 
      engines.  The holes drilled in the rods squirt oil up under the bottom of the 
      piston / cylinder on the opposite side - for cooling effect, and the A75 pistons
      
      have fins inside, above the wrist pin.  The wrist pins are actually smaller on
      
      the A75.
          I think you should check your tach with an electronic hand held tach, to 
      see if your panel mounted one is accurate.  If you are actually developing 
      2300 to 2400 rpm on static run up, then you will probably get to the rated rpm
      of 
      the A75 engine (2600 rpm), once the prop unloads in straight level flight.  
      The Overhaul Manual notes:  Prolonged running of the engine at or near "FULL 
      THROTTLE" position should be avoided on the ground.
          I don't get anywhere near 2300 rpm on my full power static run up, with 
      my A65 and homebuilt 72 X 42 prop.  When I built my prop, to get the shape of 
      the blades, I used the planform that Orin Hoopman drew up for the Model A 
      engine.  I think I get about 2000 rpm (maybe a little less) on full power static
      
      run up (brakes don't hold it), and when the prop unloads in straight level 
      flight, full power run yields just under 2300 rpm.  I re-worked my prop two 
      different times in order to eventually get the rpm up to the rated power...not
      by 
      decreasing the diameter or pitch, but by removing material from the trailing edge
      
      of the blades, about half way out the diameter, and blending in the curved 
      forward surface, thus reducing the chord of the blades.
          On a high drag plane like the Pietenpol, I don't think you should 
      decrease the diameter of the prop in order to get a higher rated rpm.  High drag
      
      airplanes require a large diameter prop.  I think it would be MUCH better to 
      decrease the pitch of the prop.
          It's true that a metal prop is more efficient, because it is a thinner 
      blade.  However, a metal prop on an antique plane like the Piet,  just looks too
      
      much out of place.
          All that said, I think you should always check, and re-check after in 
      service, the balance of the prop, and just stick with what you have, and fly the
      
      plane for 50 or 60 hrs, and then decide if you want to mess around with 
      changing props.
      
      Chuck G.
      NX770CG
      
Message 13
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| Subject:  | Re: Fuse construction / Bartlesville Flight | 
      
      In a message dated 9/24/2006 1:22:36 AM Central Standard Time, 
      horzpool@goldengate.net writes:
      Gene and all
      Tell me if I am wrong here in thinking that since I am using the Jenny type 
      LG, these issues dont apply.  The cross brace wires and the bungees absorbing 
      shock straight upwards shouldn't cause compression loading in the same way.  Am
      
      I correct about that?
      Dick N.
      Dick,
          Yes, you are right on.  I think this is the reason the strap wasn't 
      originally installed in the design.  In fact I think B.H.P. called it a 'Safety
      
      Strap' for the split axle gear.  
          On my way to and from Bartlesville today, I sure am glad I had that strap 
      under there !!  It was a Very bumpy ride, both ways.  It was also 15 mph to 
      20 mph Direct crosswind take offs, and landings.  There was a LOT planes there,
      
      for an excellent turn out.  I met Steve Ruse, and Chet Peek there.  Steve is 
      an enthusiastic Pietenpol guy, and has been flying is plane a LOT.  I think he
      
      has about 150 hrs in about 1 1/2 yrs.  Chet took care of the B17's in England 
      in '43 and '44.  He has written 6 or 7 books about various light vintage 
      aircraft, and his latest one is titled 'The Pietenpol Story'.  Should be out in
      
      less than a month.  I already ordered my copy !!
      
      Chuck G.
      NX770CG
      
 
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