Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:16 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (Clif Dawson)
2. 01:24 AM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (Clif Dawson)
3. 05:31 AM - Torch Question (Glenn Thomas)
4. 07:19 AM - Re: Torch Question (Jim Ash)
5. 07:27 AM - Re: Fuse construction (Gene Rambo)
6. 07:34 AM - Henrob torch (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
7. 08:01 AM - Bell Crank Location (John Egan)
8. 08:59 AM - Check out Flyboys (2006) (Andimaxd@aol.com)
9. 09:47 AM - Re: Torch Question (Rcaprd@aol.com)
10. 01:05 PM - landing gear issues (Douwe Blumberg)
11. 01:45 PM - Builders in Southern Cal (Lars Hulgreen)
12. 01:46 PM - Re: FW: Fuse construction (Skip-Cinda Gadd)
13. 02:35 PM - Re: Fuse construction / Bartlesville Flight (Rick Holland)
14. 02:43 PM - Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 09/23/06 (kmordecai001@comcast.net)
15. 03:48 PM - Re: Bell Crank Location (Peter W Johnson)
16. 04:41 PM - Re: Torch Question (jimcarriere)
17. 04:41 PM - Re: Bell Crank Location (John Egan)
18. 04:53 PM - builders ion the Tulsa area (AMsafetyC@aol.com)
19. 05:01 PM - Re: Builders in Southern Cal (Glenn Thomas)
20. 05:43 PM - Re: Check out Flyboys (2006) (Don Emch)
21. 05:59 PM - Re: Bell Crank Location (Ben Charvet)
22. 06:37 PM - Re: Re: Torch Question (Rcaprd@aol.com)
23. 07:18 PM - Re: Torch Question (jimcarriere)
24. 08:14 PM - Re: Re: Torch Question (Jim Ash)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction |
The only positive way to make it not bow in the
negative G of landing is to use a tube. To
parody all that DIY furniture (IKEA, ET AL) ;
Some re-engineering required.
That strap doesn't take all the flight loads, The
wood fuselage handles it's share as well.
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: RAMPEYBOY@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 4:25 AM
Subject: Re: FW: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
In a message dated 9/22/2006 11:34:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Rcaprd@aol.com writes:
That energy has to be absorbed somewhere, and that cross piece is
the place
Chuck I'm no engineer, but what you said there got me thinking. Maybe
this energy should be absorbed by bowing this metal cross piece? If you
stiffen this piece, then does some more critical (or more difficult to
replace/repair) part then have to take the load? Food for thought...
Boyce
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction |
And hopefully not like the poor OhNo bird.
That's the one trying to land with long
testicles and short legs :-)
Known far and wide for it's distinctive call,
Oh no! Oh no! Oh no!
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: RAMPEYBOY@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 7:29 AM
Subject: Re: FW: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
In a message dated 9/23/2006 10:26:18 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
Rcaprd@aol.com writes:
The whole trick is...to land as softly as a Butterfly with sore feet
!! :)
We do that all the time don't we?? I mean when nobody is watching!
Message 3
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
I'm shopping for more tools, this time torches. Anybody have experience with this
setup? They look light and ergonomic.
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63546#63546
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
I own one.
Henrob has a number of distributors; your guy ain't the only one. I bought mine at Sun 'n Fun maybe 10 years ago from a guy named Dal McGill. He claims he'll beat any competitor's price, so it might be worth the phone call (http://www.portableweldingtorch.com/). If you can wait until one of the big shows, one of their distributors usually has a presence and they offer show specials.
When I bought mine, I already had enough crap I'd bought at fairs and shows that
didn't work when I got it home, and I didn't want any more. I was in a feisty
mood that day, so while I'd paused at his booth to watch like everybody else,
he was demonstrating welding aluminum in front of a bunch of people. I put it
to him and told him I'd buy one if I could step around inside his booth and
butt weld a couple chunks of aluminum in front of everybody there. Understand
I'd taken formal welding instruction in the recent past, including gas, stick
(certified 3G), MIG and TIG, on mild steel, aluminum, stainless, and cast iron,
so learning to weld wasn't the issue; being able to do it with his new toy was
the issue. He called my bluff and after a few minutes of basic instruction
and few tips unique to the system, I ran a couple nice beads on aluminum. I wasn't
really expecting it to work, but I'm a man of my word, so out I walked, torch
kit in hand, and $300 lighter.
I find it to be a versatile tool. My home welding environment isn't the best; I
don't have a nice welding booth set up. Sometimes I'm crouched over a rock in
my back yard, or cutting stock in my driveway. Rarely do I pull out my regular
Victor torch body any more when I need to cut or weld with gas. Come time for
me to build a 4130 tube fuselage, this will be the weapon I use to assemble
it. I've welded 4130 clusters, joints and rosettes with it already.
The unit is stingy with gas, as compared to a regular torch body. The cuts (kerf,
if you're into saws) in mild steel are much finer; the sales guys demo cutting
what looks like saw teeth in thick plate. I can attest I can do the same thing
at home. The cutting rigs take a little getting used to, because the cutting
oxygen comes from a separate tip slightly away from the flame instead of concentrically
like a normal torch body, but it's no biggie, especially if you've
never cut with a torch before. The flame is very accurately adjustable, which
is one of the unit's charms. I can set up a flame anywhere from smaller than
a candle flame to a serious blast.
Keep in mind they're only selling you a torch body kit. You will still need gas
bottles (lease or purchase), regulators, hoses, some kind of eye protection (#5
lense, which is pretty standard for gas), gloves, a striker, and the wrenches
to put it all together. I also have anti-flashback valves for my gas lines,
but they're optional.
I find the rig to be versatile, but I weld all kinds of stuff. If you're looking for a welding rig specifically for aircraft construction, you might want to look at the Meco Midget or the small Smith torch. The Henrob isn't quite as light and manuverable as these, especially with the heavy hoses I've got, although you can get lighter hoses. Those others can also be had for a lot cheaper than the Henrob kit. Kent White sells a Meco kit with regulators for $255 (http://www.tinmantech.com/html/meco_midget_torch.php).
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Glenn Thomas <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
>Sent: Sep 24, 2006 8:30 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Torch Question
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
>
>I'm shopping for more tools, this time torches. Anybody have experience with
this setup? They look light and ergonomic.
>
>http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
>
>--------
>Glenn Thomas
>N?????
>http://www.flyingwood.com
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction |
Dick:
I agree that the Jenny gear loads the fuselage differently and may not
make the fuselage bow the same, but I think the original purpose of the
strap would still be there, as a safety device in the last resort to
hold the wings on if the fitting should pull out, or actually to prevent
the fitting from pulling out. I think that this is an extremely
unlikely concern.
Just to give another example of this type of concern, the seat belts in
the Travel Air originally attached around two oak seat rails. Because
there was an instance where the oak rails became so rotten that they
broke off and the pilot, seat, belts and all fell out of the airplane,
the belts were moved to attach to the longeron. I do not anticipate
that solid oak rails in my airplane (or any other part) will rot inside
the hangar (they were probably kept outside then) I have mine attached
to the oak like they originally were. Poor conditions, poor
maintenance, poor inspections created the problem. How a solid piece of
oak could rot that much without being noticed is beyond me.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Navratil<mailto:horzpool@goldengate.net>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 23, 2006 9:06 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
Gene and all
Tell me if I am wrong here in thinking that since I am using the Jenny
type LG, these issues dont apply. The cross brace wires and the bungees
absorbing shock straight upwards shouldn't cause compression loading in
the same way. Am I correct about that?
Dick N.
Message 6
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--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan)
I bought a Henrob about 5 years ago. It welds nice, but its heavier than
my Smith torch. Also its somewhat ungangly (?) with its pistol shape.
The real reason I wanted it was for cutting out steel fittings. In their
booth at Oshkosh the man was cutting steel like he was playing a
Straravarious violin. Even I could make that baby sing. At home it was a
different story. I have never got it to cut like the torch in the
Oshkosh booth. Now I never use it. I always use the Smith because its
lighter and more maneuverable. I may build a steel tube plane sometime
in the future with more welding and fittings than the Piet, and I will
master that thing. I don't know if would recommend it or not. If you
have the money, go for it. It does weld ok. Leon S. In Ks.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Bell Crank Location |
I have been hesitating to drill and bolt my bell crank in place (control cable
bell crank) because I would like to raise it 3/4" above the 9" dimension as the
plans call out in the rear fuselage section. I've been trying to figure out
if this change in dimension changes the elevator movement given the same stick
movement, and even if it did, would it matter much. The reason I would like
to mount the bell crank a little higher is for better cable routing from the
crank to the elevators.
Do you guys who have built to completion have any thoughts on this? Thanks.
John
Greenville, Wi.
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Check out Flyboys (2006) |
I appreciate (Dick N. and Chuck G. and all) the responses to my propeller
question. It is in a static run up for the 2300-2400 rpm. _Photo Display_
(http://mykitplane.com/Planes/photoDisplay.cfm?PhotoName=Davis%20Piet%20Tests%200
91606%20010.jpg&PhotoID=3681) . I did not know how much that would affect
the numbers. Chuck's numbers back up Tony B's (which I had not read at the
time of the posting) which states that in static you will get about 80% of what
she'll do when she unloads in straight level flight.
_Flyboys (2006)_ (http://www.imdb.com/title/tt0454824/)
This is somewhat off subject; my wife and I went to see Flyboys this Friday
and I would recommend it to all Pietenpol aficionados... My wife is not as
excited about aero planes as I am and she still enjoyed it.
Max Davis
Arlington, TX.
NX101XW
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
In a message dated 9/24/2006 7:34:27 AM Central Standard Time,
glennthomas@flyingwood.com writes:
I'm shopping for more tools, this time torches. Anybody have experience with
this setup? They look light and ergonomic.
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
Glen,
I bought the Henrob a couple of years ago at Oshkosh. I'm almost done
welding up the Wittman W10 fuselage with it. Still gotta finish the empenage,
and
start on the engine mount / landing gear sockets. I'm not particularly
satisfied with it, because it is much heavier and bulkier than my Dad's old welding
torch - smaller (kinda like a Smith) but no longer can get tips for. If I
could have bought tips, I wouldn't have bought the Henrob. The other grievance
I
have with the Henrob, is it seems like I'm always adjusting it to keep the
flame just a little on the rich side, and the knobs are not sensitive enough to
make small adjustments. The other reason I bought it was to weld aluminum,
which I haven't tried yet. It calls out a different eye lens for aluminum, and
so far I haven't found a place to purchase the special lens for aluminum. The
cutting ability of the Henrob is as described, very clean cut.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 10
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| Subject: | landing gear issues |
Hey guys,
here's my $ .02 (and worth every penny!)
The strap had nothing to do with the landing gear, as has been rightly
observed. It was extra insurance to tie the lift strut fittings
together.
The bowing occurs, as has also been observed, due to the negative forces
on the struts during hard landings, which wants to "roll" the lower
strut fitting around the longeron a bit. It ALSO is pulled down, by the
springs, or bungees on the cub type gear at exactly the same time, so
you've got a double whamy here.
The Jenny gear is like an upside down braced pylon and doesn't do any of
this, it actually resists the downward push on that fitting from the
struts, and doesn't pull like the cub gear does.
Douwe
Message 11
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| Subject: | Builders in Southern Cal |
I recently started building a Piet and I have been unsuccessful in locating
any local builders or flying Pietenpols in the neighborhood . I would love
to see/compare other projects . this would be a great confidence builder .
anybody?
Dane
Orange County, Calif.
dane@scsl.net
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction |
Rick,
The gear on my Piet uses GN-1 front fittings for the front and back, the aft GN-1
fitting does not have the lift strut attach. The rectangular tube I found is
1 1/2 X 3/4 .049 from Aircraft Spruce. I would have used .035 if I could have
found any. I may use a strap on the aft fitting. Grega has an N brace between
the front and back U channel. I do not plan to use that part of his design.
If I had Piet fittings and wanted to use a rectangular tube, I might remove the
strap and just modify the ends of the rectangular tube so it could be attached
to the Piet gear fitting.
Skip
What if a piece of rectangular tubing (as long as would fit between the fittings)
was welded along the two inch strap? Probably only on the front strap since
the back doesn't seem to have the problem. Were you thinking of something like
this Skip or are you also building the GN-1 gear fittings?
Rick H.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction / Bartlesville Flight |
I just finished Chet Peek's "Resurection or a Jenny" book and found it well
written and just technical enough (not just a history book). I am looking
forward to Chet's Pietenpol book.
Rick H.
On 9/24/06, Rcaprd@aol.com <Rcaprd@aol.com> wrote:
>
> In a message dated 9/24/2006 1:22:36 AM Central Standard Time,
> horzpool@goldengate.net writes:
>
> Gene and all
> Tell me if I am wrong here in thinking that since I am using the Jenny
> type LG, these issues dont apply. The cross brace wires and the bungees
> absorbing shock straight upwards shouldn't cause compression loading in the
> same way. Am I correct about that?
> Dick N.
>
> Dick,
> Yes, you are right on. I think this is the reason the strap wasn't
> originally installed in the design. In fact I think B.H.P. called it a
> 'Safety Strap' for the split axle gear.
> On my way to and from Bartlesville today, I sure am glad I had that
> strap under there !! It was a *Very* bumpy ride, both ways. It was also
> 15 mph to 20 mph Direct crosswind take offs, and landings. There was a LOT
> planes there, for an excellent turn out. I met Steve Ruse, and Chet Peek
> there. Steve is an enthusiastic Pietenpol guy, and has been flying is plane
> a LOT. I think he has about 150 hrs in about 1 1/2 yrs. Chet took care of
> the B17's in England in '43 and '44. He has written 6 or 7 books about
> various light vintage aircraft, and his latest one is titled 'The Pietenpol
> Story'. Should be out in less than a month. I already ordered my copy !!
>
> Chuck G.
> NX770CG
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Pietenpol-List Digest: 13 Msgs - 09/23/06 |
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: proper prop for A-75 piet
>
> Hey guys,
>
> I have become a lurker, but, I need some feedback from you guys on props. I
> have a prop off of a 65hp Aeronica mounted to my A-75 piet. I'm developing
> 2300-2400 rpm's. I was curious what others are using with their piets with
> A-75's and what kind of number they're getting. I was visiting with Jim
> Markle and he dug this up for me:
Max,
I also have an A-75, with a Hegy 72 x 42 wood prop. At 10' above MSL on a hot
day I get 2150 static, 2200 on a cool day. Climbout at 50 mph & 2200 rpm, and
a 2150 rpm cruise yields 70-72 mph (depending on load, etc)
Top speed is 85-88 @ 2400 rpm. With this prop it's essentially an A-65 with a
little over-rev potential, as you've pointed out, so I fly it like an A-65. Also
set the timing as an A-65 since that's the rpm range it runs in.
I would like to improve the rate of climb, and I agree with your comments on metal
vs. wood, but the cost of a prop to gain slightly more climb just doesn't
pass the cost/benefit analysis, and the Hegy is SO pretty..........
Cleaning bugs off my prop in Panacea.......
Dave Mordecai
Panacea, FL
<html><body>
<DIV>> Subject: Pietenpol-List: proper prop for A-75 piet <BR>> <BR>>
Hey guys, <BR>> <BR>> I have become a lurker, but, I need some feedback
from you guys on props. I <BR>> have a prop off of a 65hp Aeronica mounted
to my A-75 piet. I'm developing <BR>> 2300-2400 rpm's. I was curious what others
are using with their piets with <BR>> A-75's and what kind of number
they're getting. I was visiting with Jim <BR>> Markle and he dug this up for
me: <BR></DIV>
<DIV>Max,</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>I also have an A-75, with a Hegy 72 x 42 wood prop. At 10' above MSL
on a hot day I get 2150 static, 2200 on a cool day. Climbout at 50 mph
& 2200 rpm, and a 2150 rpm cruise yields 70-72 mph (depending on load, etc)</DIV>
<DIV>Top speed is 85-88 @ 2400 rpm. With this prop it's essentially an A-65
with a little over-rev potential, as you've pointed out, so I fly it like an
A-65. Also set the timing as an A-65 since that's the rpm range it runs
in. </DIV>
<DIV>I would like to improve the rate of climb, and I agree with your comments
on metal vs. wood, but the cost of a prop to gain slightly more climb just doesn't
pass the cost/benefit analysis, and the Hegy is SO pretty..........</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Cleaning bugs off my prop in Panacea.......</DIV>
<DIV>Dave Mordecai</DIV>
<DIV>Panacea, FL</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Bell Crank Location |
John,
I left the bell crank location where it is on the plans and installed a
couple of pulleys attached to the top longeron to change the routing of
the
up elevator control cables. They now do not have any contact with the
elevator when in the down position.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi, Australia
HYPERLINK "http://www.cpc-world.com/"http://www.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John
Egan
Sent: Monday, 25 September 2006 1:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bell Crank Location
I have been hesitating to drill and bolt my bell crank in place (control
cable bell crank) because I would like to raise it 3/4" above the 9"
dimension as the plans call out in the rear fuselage section. I've been
trying to figure out if this change in dimension changes the elevator
movement given the same stick movement, and even if it did, would it
matter
much. The reason I would like to mount the bell crank a little higher
is
for better cable routing from the crank to the elevators.
Do you guys who have built to completion have any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
John
Greenville, Wi.
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--
22/09/2006
--
22/09/2006
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
IIRC, the cuts-like-plasma website also sells flux powder (add water and brush
it on aluminum) and a blue plastic filter (that fits inside a welding mask).
IIRC, they recommend #3 glass with the blue filter, since #5 and the filter might
be too dark. The blue plastic filters the color of the flux burning off (which
apparently is quite bright and obscures the bead). Like any welding, to
avoid domestic issues, try to keep the fumes from getting inside your house :)
Hope this helps.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63645#63645
Message 17
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| Subject: | Bell Crank Location |
Builders, Thank you for the thoughts regarding the cable routing. My concern
was the lower elevator cable. On mine, the lower cable will rub on the stringer
that runs the length of the fuselage on the outside.
I found more information. Tonight, I was going through a big pile of Piet photos
and I found pictures of Allen Rudolph's old Piet when he was rebuilding
it at EAA probably back in 1996 or so. He had cable guides (micarta?) attached
to the fuselage members with both sets of cables (upper and lower) running through,
used to deflect the path of the cables. I also found photos of the uncovered
Piet at the EAA museum in the Piet hanger with the same scenario of micarta
guides with the cable running through them. So, pulleys or guides, I'll
deflect around my obstacles.
Thank you,
John
Peter W Johnson <vk3eka@bigpond.net.au> wrote:
John,
I left the bell crank location where it is on the plans and installed a couple
of pulleys attached to the top longeron to change the routing of the up elevator
control cables. They now do not have any contact with the elevator when in
the down position.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi, Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of John Egan
Sent: Monday, 25 September 2006 1:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bell Crank Location
I have been hesitating to drill and bolt my bell crank in place (control cable
bell crank) because I would like to raise it 3/4" above the 9" dimension as
the plans call out in the rear fuselage section. I've been trying to figure
out if this change in dimension changes the elevator movement given the same
stick movement, and even if it did, would it matter much. The reason I would
like to mount the bell crank a little higher is for better cable routing from
the crank to the elevators.
Do you guys who have built to completion have any thoughts on this? Thanks.
John
Greenville, Wi.
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| Subject: | builders ion the Tulsa area |
I will be in the Tulsa Oklahoma area later this week. Are there any piet
builders or owners that would be up for a visit and questions from a pre build?
BTW, I was able to make a visit to Hans to check out his peit, a great visit,
nice piet and an real good visit. I am hoping to do more of the same with
other builders as I travel the country for business. I am looking forward to
seeing more and learning all that I can about the piet and the build.
Please advise if you can afford the time and are willing to share.
Thanks
John
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Builders in Southern Cal |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
Hi,
This site is helpful. I looked up builders in my area, contacted one from this
list, arranged a visit and even got an unexpected ride. ...and it not only builds
confidence, it gives you a tangible goal to see and touch. From my experience
the builders in this community are very helpful and encouraging.
Give this link a shot!
http://www.frappr.com/pietenpol
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63652#63652
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| Subject: | Re: Check out Flyboys (2006) |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Don Emch" <EmchAir@aol.com>
I saw Flyboys today and really liked it. One cool thing is that Andrew King was
one of the pilots in the movie. For any of you that don't know him, he is a
really great guy that is very Pietenpol oriented and has added a lot to the Pietenpol
lore!
Don Emch
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63664#63664
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Location |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net>
John Egan wrote:
> Builders, Thank you for the thoughts regarding the cable routing. My
> concern was the lower elevator cable. On mine, the lower cable will
> rub on the stringer that runs the length of the fuselage on the outside.
>
> I found more information. Tonight, I was going through a big pile of
> Piet photos and I found pictures of Allen Rudolph's old Piet when he
> was rebuilding it at EAA probably back in 1996 or so. He had cable
> guides (micarta?) attached to the fuselage members with both sets of
> cables (upper and lower) running through, used to deflect the path of
> the cables. I also found photos of the uncovered Piet at the EAA
> museum in the Piet hanger with the same scenario of micarta guides
> with the cable running through them. So, pulleys or guides, I'll
> deflect around my obstacles.
>
That's the way I've run my elevator cables. I got lucky and found some
pieces of micarta in some old stuff I inherited from my grandfather's
workshop. I diverted the top cable up as far as I could get it, and it
barely clears the horizontal stab, but probably would chafe with
vibration in the full down position. I didn't have any problems routing
the lower cables around the side stinger though. My grandfather was a
great guy and a pilot too! I have some pictures of him with my great
grandfather getting into a biplane in 1932. I thought it was great that
a part of his stuff ended up in my plane.
Ben Charvet
extended fuselage on the gear, designing my brake system
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReport.cfm?PlaneID=481
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
In a message dated 9/24/2006 6:43:16 PM Central Standard Time,
jimcarriere@yahoo.com writes:
IIRC, they recommend #3 glass with the blue filter, since #5 and the filter
might be too dark.
Jim,
Do you know what their web site is ??
Chuck
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
Yep... it's a few steps up in this thread if you're using the web interface. :)
If you're using email though:
http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
The flux and blue filter are under "supplies" and "safety products" respectively.
Note the blue filter is thin, flimsy plastic (the webpage describes this, make
sure take the trouble to read the explanation) and doesn't provide any protection
by itself.
The Bingelis books have some good practical tips about welding aluminum, even though
they don't address gas welding aluminum. Using this flux, I think aluminum
is no more difficult than 4130. The key is some practice and that your workpiece(s)
has good flanges that fit tightly (riveting with cheap aluminum rivets
helps, the rivets melt into big globs as part of the weld bead). You shouldn't
need any filler rod to get a strong (albeit ugly) weld. The rest of the
workpiece will want to warp from the heat, so if the dimensions of what you are
building are critical then keep that in mind as you build your jig.
If you read between the lines you'll see that I still have a lot to learn :) Hope
this helps.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63685#63685
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Jim Ash <ashcan@earthlink.net>
Personally, aluminum is just a bit trickier than steel, for two reasons. First,
aluminum melts at a much lower temperature. This means that when welding, the
heat required for steel usually burns off most anything that could cause you
difficulty during welding. Not so with aluminum. This makes it more critical that
aluminum be cleaned and fluxed. Second, aluminum transfers heat better than
steel, so when welding, the temperature gradient as you get further from the
weld is much higher with steel. You can hold a foot-long piece of steel bare-handed
on one end and weld on it at the other. If you try this with aluminum,
you're losing your fingerprints. This lesser temperature gradient makes heat control
of the weld more critical with aluminum. If you're running a little too
hot with steel, you can fake it. With aluminum, you risk a drop-out as a larger
section of material around the weld reaches melting point.
All this is not to say don't try welding it; just understand what's going on with
the metal as you do.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: jimcarriere <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
>Sent: Sep 24, 2006 10:17 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Torch Question
>
>--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
>
>Yep... it's a few steps up in this thread if you're using the web interface.
:) If you're using email though:
>
>http://www.cut-like-plasma.com/
>
>The flux and blue filter are under "supplies" and "safety products" respectively.
>
>Note the blue filter is thin, flimsy plastic (the webpage describes this, make
sure take the trouble to read the explanation) and doesn't provide any protection
by itself.
>
>The Bingelis books have some good practical tips about welding aluminum, even
though they don't address gas welding aluminum. Using this flux, I think aluminum
is no more difficult than 4130. The key is some practice and that your workpiece(s)
has good flanges that fit tightly (riveting with cheap aluminum rivets
helps, the rivets melt into big globs as part of the weld bead). You shouldn't
need any filler rod to get a strong (albeit ugly) weld. The rest of the
workpiece will want to warp from the heat, so if the dimensions of what you
are building are critical then keep that in mind as you build your jig.
>
>If you read between the lines you'll see that I still have a lot to learn :)
Hope this helps.
>
>
>Read this topic online here:
>
>http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63685#63685
>
>
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