Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:38 AM - Re: Bell Crank Location (Gene Rambo)
2. 06:37 AM - Fuse construction (Dan Loegering)
3. 06:50 AM - Re: Fuse construction (RAMPEYBOY@aol.com)
4. 07:23 AM - Re: Fuse construction (Dave Abramson)
5. 07:25 AM - Re: Fuse construction (Rick Holland)
6. 07:31 AM - Re: Fuse construction (Rick Holland)
7. 07:36 AM - Re: Torch Question (Glenn Thomas)
8. 07:44 AM - Re: Builders in Southern Cal (Dave Abramson)
9. 07:48 AM - Re: Bell Crank Location (Allan Macklem)
10. 09:06 AM - Re: Bell Crank Location (Jack T. Textor)
11. 02:22 PM - Re: Bell Crank Location (Jack T. Textor)
12. 02:54 PM - Re: Bell Crank Location (Allan Macklem)
13. 06:57 PM - Re: Re: Torch Question (Catdesigns)
14. 07:01 PM - Re: Builders in Southern Cal (Catdesigns)
15. 07:31 PM - Re: Builders in Southern Cal (Catdesigns)
16. 08:29 PM - Re: Torch Question (jimcarriere)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Location |
I think if you look back through the archives that it pretty much
standard that the bellcrank is raised a bit by most everyone I have seen
build a Piet. Ken Perkins has worked out the exact geometry for
drilling the holes in the bellcrank that eliminates the problem of one
cable going slack at the extreme ends of the travel so all are tight all
the time, you'll have to get that from him. I agree, though, micarta or
teflon at all rub points.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: John Egan<mailto:johnegan99@yahoo.com>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 11:00 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Bell Crank Location
I have been hesitating to drill and bolt my bell crank in place
(control cable bell crank) because I would like to raise it 3/4" above
the 9" dimension as the plans call out in the rear fuselage section.
I've been trying to figure out if this change in dimension changes the
elevator movement given the same stick movement, and even if it did,
would it matter much. The reason I would like to mount the bell crank a
little higher is for better cable routing from the crank to the
elevators.
Do you guys who have built to completion have any thoughts on this?
Thanks.
John
Greenville, Wi.
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Fuse construction |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dan Loegering" <danl@odayequipment.com>
Thank you all for the comments on construction - lots of great ideas to think about!
The landing gear items have started me thinking again also. I really liked the
looks of the Jenny style gear, but like the function of the Cub style. My intent
was to build the split gear, and then streamline with wood fairings to try
and bring back the look of the original Jenny style legs. I had never thought
about using streamlined tubing and paint to accomplish this - I like that idea!
On the fuse length issue, since I am using an A65-8 with no electrical, and looking
where the length is added to the long fuse (some up front, but mainly behind
the CG), I may take a look at a hybrid. Long fuse dimensions up front, short
fuse dimensions behind the pilot. I like the extra couple of inches in each
cockpit, but don't see the reason to move the tail further back which would
need to be offset by moving the engine forward... Something to think about,
and put a calculator to...
Dan L
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction |
Slightly off topic, when building the fuselage, do you have to steam the
lower longeron to get the bend in it? The top one looks straight, the bottom
definitely looks to have a bend. Curious mind wants to know, now I go back to
lurking!
Boyce
Message 4
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| Subject: | Fuse construction |
Hi Boyce,
No, you do not have to steam the lower longeron to bend it. I think the
only piece I had to steam was the top piece of spruce on the wing ribs.
That is a pretty good bend! Cheers, Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of
RAMPEYBOY@aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 6:50 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuse construction
Slightly off topic, when building the fuselage, do you have to steam
the lower longeron to get the bend in it? The top one looks straight, the
bottom definitely looks to have a bend. Curious mind wants to know, now I go
back to lurking!
Boyce
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction |
I used spruce longerons and mine bent dry with on problem.
Rick H
On 9/25/06, RAMPEYBOY@aol.com <RAMPEYBOY@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Slightly off topic, when building the fuselage, do you have to steam
> the lower longeron to get the bend in it? The top one looks straight, the
> bottom definitely looks to have a bend. Curious mind wants to know, now I go
> back to lurking!
> Boyce
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Fuse construction |
I am building to the long fuselage plans and moved the firewall forward a
few inches after reading an old artice interviewing Mr. Pietenpol. He
recommended this for non-Ford engine installations, you can find the text of
the comment in the archives. Sounds more logical than extending the engine
mount.
Rick H
On 9/25/06, Dan Loegering <danl@odayequipment.com> wrote:
>
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Dan Loegering" <
> danl@odayequipment.com>
>
> Thank you all for the comments on construction - lots of great ideas to
> think about!
>
> The landing gear items have started me thinking again also. I really
> liked the looks of the Jenny style gear, but like the function of the Cub
> style. My intent was to build the split gear, and then streamline with wood
> fairings to try and bring back the look of the original Jenny style legs. I
> had never thought about using streamlined tubing and paint to accomplish
> this - I like that idea!
>
> On the fuse length issue, since I am using an A65-8 with no electrical,
> and looking where the length is added to the long fuse (some up front, but
> mainly behind the CG), I may take a look at a hybrid. Long fuse dimensions
> up front, short fuse dimensions behind the pilot. I like the extra couple
> of inches in each cockpit, but don't see the reason to move the tail further
> back which would need to be offset by moving the engine
> forward... Something to think about, and put a calculator to...
>
> Dan L
>
>
--
Rick Holland
"Logic is a wreath of pretty flowers, that smell bad"
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
Thanks for the info on the Henrob torches. I looked that the Meco Midget, ...very
similar to the Harris torch I used in the welding tent at OshKosh. I may
go with that one. Can you make everything you need on a Piet with that torch?
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63740#63740
Message 8
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| Subject: | Builders in Southern Cal |
Hi Dane, I live in Garden Grove, and am making some parts here for my
plane. I have a Hanger at the Santa Maria Airport up where my parents live.
I am actually building up there.
I have a Fuselage about done and the tail feathers. Where are you?
Cheers,
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Lars Hulgreen
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Builders in Southern Cal
I recently started building a Piet and I have been unsuccessful in locating
any local builders or flying Pietenpols in the neighborhood . I would love
to see/compare other projects . this would be a great confidence builder .
anybody?
Dane
Orange County, Calif.
dane@scsl.net
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Location |
How can I get in touch with Ken Perkins?
Gene Rambo wrote: "Ken Perkins has worked out the exact geometry for
drilling the holes in the bellcrank that eliminates the problem of one
cable going slack at the extreme ends of the travel so all are tight all
the time."
Message 10
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| Subject: | Bell Crank Location |
His email is Kenandvernaperkins@sbcglobal.net, I've sent him a note
asking his phone but not response yet.
Jack Textor
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Allan
Macklem
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 9:47 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Bell Crank Location
How can I get in touch with Ken Perkins?
Gene Rambo wrote: "Ken Perkins has worked out the exact geometry for
drilling the holes in the bellcrank that eliminates the problem of one
cable going slack at the extreme ends of the travel so all are tight all
the time."
Message 11
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| Subject: | Bell Crank Location |
Ken's phone is 913 764 6949. He is in the process of updating his
pricing. When he gets that info to me I will relay it to the group.
Jack Textor
www.textors.com
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack T.
Textor
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 11:05 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Bell Crank Location
His email is Kenandvernaperkins@sbcglobal.net, I've sent him a note
asking his phone but not response yet.
Jack Textor
________________________________
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Bell Crank Location |
Thanks Jack.
Allan
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Catdesigns" <catdesigns@comcast.net>
I have a Meco and a generic Victor knockoff. I think you would have a hard
time with only the Meco when it comes time to heat up the tubing to squish
for the control connector tube and the tail wheel. Anytime I need to heat up
a welded piece I use the bigger torch as well . It's just too much of a
pain to switch hoses, so I use the bigger knockoff 99% of the time with a
000, 00 and 0 tip. It seem to work fine.
I also have problems with my regulators not wanting to hold a consistent
pressure with the low pressures the Meco uses, and I'm not going to buy new
regulators $$$. I really haven't given it a fair chance as I gave up on it
due to wanting to get the welding done at the time. I guess I should hook
it back up and try it some more.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
Sent: Monday, September 25, 2006 7:36 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Torch Question
> --> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "Glenn Thomas"
> <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
>
> Thanks for the info on the Henrob torches. I looked that the Meco
> Midget, ...very similar to the Harris torch I used in the welding tent at
> OshKosh. I may go with that one. Can you make everything you need on a
> Piet with that torch?
>
> --------
> Glenn Thomas
> N?????
> http://www.flyingwood.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63740#63740
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Builders in Southern Cal |
I think the EAA chapter 494 in Corona is building a Pietenpol. Latest
info I had was they had meetings the 3dr Saturday of the month at 2pm.
Pietenpol workshop 1st and 3rd Saturdays from 10 to 2.
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
----- Original Message -----
From: Lars Hulgreen
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, September 24, 2006 10:06 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Builders in Southern Cal
I recently started building a Piet and I have been unsuccessful in
locating any local builders or flying Pietenpols in the neighborhood . I
would love to see/compare other projects . this would be a great
confidence builder . anybody?
Dane
Orange County, Calif.
dane@scsl.net
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Builders in Southern Cal |
Dane,
I forgot to say, if your ever in the Sacramento area your more then
welcome to stop by and see my project (that goes for anyone out there).
I can also put you in touch with three others in the general vicinity
(like 1 hr drive from Sac).
Chris Tracy
Sacramento, Ca
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Torch Question |
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "jimcarriere" <jimcarriere@yahoo.com>
Speaking of squishing tubing, this:
http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=77463-000000717-JTH7&lpage=none
will throw out PLENTY of heat. I used two of these (connected to MAPP gas cylinders),
a BIG vise, and patience, to squish 1.5" x 3/16" (wall thicknes) 4130.
It will heat steel to cherry red in very little time, and unless the workpiece
is thin and you are careless, it won't burn through. The cost is reasonable too
(no oxygen cylinder required).
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=63886#63886
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