Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:02 AM - Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (Johnwoods)
2. 07:21 AM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (gcardinal)
3. 08:35 AM - surface tapes (RBush96589@aol.com)
4. 08:36 AM - Re: more pictures of controls ()
5. 09:00 AM - Re: surface tapes (walt evans)
6. 10:01 AM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (HelsperSew@aol.com)
7. 10:10 AM - Re: surface tapes (Dick Navratil)
8. 10:13 AM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (Dick Navratil)
9. 10:35 AM - GN-1 For Sale (Skip-Cinda Gadd)
10. 01:07 PM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (Rcaprd@aol.com)
11. 01:44 PM - surface tapes (RBush96589@aol.com)
12. 02:07 PM - radiators low? (Jeff Boatright)
13. 02:13 PM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (walt evans)
14. 02:28 PM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (Jeff Boatright)
15. 02:54 PM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (Johnwoods)
16. 03:38 PM - radiators low? (Oscar Zuniga)
17. 03:43 PM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (walt evans)
18. 04:39 PM - Re: Ohio Piets (shad bell)
19. 07:42 PM - Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib (Don Emch)
20. 08:24 PM - Re: air tran to sun fun (Malcolmbru@aol.com)
21. 09:51 PM - First (and second) Flight (Peter W Johnson)
22. 10:45 PM - Re: First (and second) Flight (Scott Schreiber)
23. 11:33 PM - Re: radiators low? (Michael Groah)
Message 1
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Subject: | Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
Can I have some advice please.
I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of the
strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
alum attached with epoxy and screws.
What did others do?
Thankyou,
JohnW
--
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
On NX18235 the leading edge is glued and bolted to the ribs. 1/16 plywood is
attached to the ribs with T88.
Bolting the leading edge to the ribs is prudent.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnwoods" <johnwoods@westnet.com.au>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
> Can I have some advice please.
>
> I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
> necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of
> the
> strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
> Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
> I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
> alum attached with epoxy and screws.
> What did others do?
>
> Thankyou,
>
> JohnW
>
> --
>
>
Message 3
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Hello everyone,
I am finishing up on covering and was wondering if it is necessary
to put surface tapes on the stringers on the turtle deck, looking at some of
my photos it does'nt look as if everyone does
Thanks,
Robert Bush
Lexington TN
Message 4
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Subject: | more pictures of controls |
The white napkins you see spread around are actually Downy cloths that
one would use in the dryer for softening clothes.They keep the mice out
of the aircraft because they can't stand the smell.In the spring I throw
them away when preparing the plane for service.In the pics you can see
the pulleys,turnbuckles and cables.I don't use a stick in the front
because I don't carry passengers and even if I did I wouldn't want them
playing around with it.You can also see the pulleys and rudder set up.
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: surface tapes |
Robert,
The norm is for wherever the fabric contacts solid frame, it's
reinforced with tape . All fabric "moves" on the structure, and can
potentially wear thru. Leaving the fabric job instantly useless.
If you get the Poly Fiber manual, It'll explain this
walt evans
NX140DL
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: RBush96589@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 11:34 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: surface tapes
Hello everyone,
I am finishing up on covering and was wondering if it is
necessary to put surface tapes on the stringers on the turtle deck,
looking at some of my photos it does'nt look as if everyone does
Thanks,
Robert Bush
Lexington TN
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
Folks,
I used small #10 machine screws and nuts to hold the leading edge to the
ribs. Even if you don't need them for strength, they are nice to have to insure
positive placement until the glue dries.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: surface tapes |
Rob
In my opinion, the stringers are the place it is most necessary to use
the tapes.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: RBush96589@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 10:34 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: surface tapes
Hello everyone,
I am finishing up on covering and was wondering if it is
necessary to put surface tapes on the stringers on the turtle deck,
looking at some of my photos it does'nt look as if everyone does
Thanks,
Robert Bush
Lexington TN
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
John
I also drilled and countersunk #8 ss screws. Then filled holes with wood
putty.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnwoods" <johnwoods@westnet.com.au>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 8:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
> Can I have some advice please.
>
> I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
> necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of
> the
> strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
> Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
> I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
> alum attached with epoxy and screws.
> What did others do?
>
> Thankyou,
>
> JohnW
>
> --
>
>
Message 9
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|
Bert Conoly has his GN-1 up on Barnstormers, the ad says 1995, but I think he completed
it 2005. I know he wrote into the list when he made the first flight.
http://www.barnstormers.com/cat.php?mode=search&PHPSESSID=ccffb167bc80bfcfeea0258513e115d2
Skip
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
In a message dated 12/16/2006 7:04:08 AM Central Standard Time,
johnwoods@westnet.com.au writes:
Can I have some advice please.
I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of the
strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
alum attached with epoxy and screws.
What did others do?
Thankyou,
JohnW
John,
By dry fitting the leading edge with screws before using the adhesive, you
will be able to get it on nice and straight and faster, once you mix the
adhesive, and the clock starts ticking. The mechanical fasteners are a good backup
if you get a bird strike. Pietenpol's don't always take bird strikes from the
rear !! :) Keep in mind that Aluminum expands and contracts much
different rate than wood, which might be a factor when it's sitting out under the
sun on a Hot day. I don't think you need anything on the bottom of the
leading edge...that's just extra time, effort, and weight.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 11
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thanks guys for the advice on surface tapes,I'm almost done with the
covering ,just have to cover the center section and then it is ready for paint.
Robert Bush
do not archive
Message 12
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I've really enjoyed Chet Peek's book and recommend it to the list. In
the book there is mention of a Bernie installing the radiator on an
A-powered Scout below the engine. The story notes that Bernie never
did it again, but does not explain why. Does anyone know?
I recall at Brodhead one year a Piet that was powered by a B (I
think) that had two radiators under the engine with frame running
fore and aft. Duct work directed airflow in from the front, then 90
degrees to run across the face of the radiators. The airflow exited
through controlled slats on the lower sides of the cowling. I
apologize if my memory is playing tricks on me. I've never even seen
pix of this Piet since.
Other than these two examples, I don't know of any Piets with
radiators below the engine. Are there any? If not, why not?
Thanks for any input,
Jeff
--
_____________________________________________________________
Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
Associate Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA
Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis
mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
John,
Don't understand why you would use aluminum.
Sorry , I'm a stickler for following the plans.
Calls for ply on the top leading edge only .
Why would you put aluminum top and bottom with screws?
John, only constructive critisism <sp>
:^)
If you cut strips of Clorox or cat litter bottles, you can staple right thru
them. The next day when the glue is dry, grab the end of the strip and pull
all the staples out in one strip. Then when you varnish,,,all becomes
sealed.
PS Still proud of the fact that I built 99.9% to the plans, (Bernard knew
how to design), I never cut any corners, which means I never put on less
then he designed.
But I didn't add.
Empty licenced weight,,,595#
My friend Bob and I (both 200# plus'ers) can still climb out comfortabally
with fuel aboard, from a 2550' long asphalt runway. No white knuckles here.
Throw it up,,,if it comes back down, don't add it to the plane.
walt evans
NX140DL
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnwoods" <johnwoods@westnet.com.au>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
> Can I have some advice please.
>
> I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
> necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of
> the
> strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
> Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
> I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
> alum attached with epoxy and screws.
> What did others do?
>
> Thankyou,
>
> JohnW
>
> --
>
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
Walt, I don't know the answer for doing it, but
the builder of our Piet used aluminum as John is
planning to. Wow, 595 lbs empty! What engine are
you using?
John, I would not do it if I were you. On ours,
the shrinking of the fabric caused the aluminum
to go all wavy. I'm sure it cuts down on the
efficiency of the wing and it is ugly. I'd stick
with the plans, FWIW.
Jeff
At 5:12 PM -0500 12/16/06, walt evans wrote:
>Content-Type: text/plain;
> format=flowed;
> reply-type=original
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>John,
>Don't understand why you would use aluminum.
>Sorry , I'm a stickler for following the plans.
>Calls for ply on the top leading edge only .
>Why would you put aluminum top and bottom with screws?
>John, only constructive critisism <sp>
>
>:^)
>
>If you cut strips of Clorox or cat litter
>bottles, you can staple right thru them. The
>next day when the glue is dry, grab the end of
>the strip and pull all the staples out in one
>strip. Then when you varnish,,,all becomes
>sealed.
>
>PS Still proud of the fact that I built 99.9% to
>the plans, (Bernard knew how to design), I never
>cut any corners, which means I never put on less
>then he designed.
>But I didn't add.
>Empty licenced weight,,,595#
>My friend Bob and I (both 200# plus'ers) can
>still climb out comfortabally with fuel aboard,
>from a 2550' long asphalt runway. No white
>knuckles here.
>
>Throw it up,,,if it comes back down, don't add it to the plane.
>
>
>walt evans
>NX140DL
>
>"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
>Ben Franklin
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Johnwoods" <johnwoods@westnet.com.au>
>To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:01 AM
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
>
>>Can I have some advice please.
>>
>>I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
>>necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of the
>>strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
>>Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
>>I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
>>alum attached with epoxy and screws.
>>What did others do?
>>
>>Thankyou,
>>
>>JohnW
>>
>>--
>>
>
>
>Attachment converted: BoatG5:walt 223.jpg (JPEG/IC) (00A61656)
--
_____________________________________________________________
Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
Associate Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA
Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis
mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
Message 15
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Subject: | Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
Thanks for the advice folks.
I'll stick to the plans but will use 1/16 ply instead of cardboard on the
top only.
Walt,
I do have a mantra (while I'm meditating in front of the plans).....
Keep it light, stick to the plans. Keep it light, stick to the plans....
But no doubt I'll be asking some more questions with obvious
answers....Follow the plans....
JohnW
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of walt
evans
Sent: Sunday, 17 December 2006 6:13 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
John,
Don't understand why you would use aluminum.
Sorry , I'm a stickler for following the plans.
Calls for ply on the top leading edge only .
Why would you put aluminum top and bottom with screws?
John, only constructive critisism <sp>
:^)
If you cut strips of Clorox or cat litter bottles, you can staple right thru
them. The next day when the glue is dry, grab the end of the strip and pull
all the staples out in one strip. Then when you varnish,,,all becomes
sealed.
PS Still proud of the fact that I built 99.9% to the plans, (Bernard knew
how to design), I never cut any corners, which means I never put on less
then he designed.
But I didn't add.
Empty licenced weight,,,595#
My friend Bob and I (both 200# plus'ers) can still climb out comfortabally
with fuel aboard, from a 2550' long asphalt runway. No white knuckles here.
Throw it up,,,if it comes back down, don't add it to the plane.
walt evans
NX140DL
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Johnwoods" <johnwoods@westnet.com.au>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
> Can I have some advice please.
>
> I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
> necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of
> the
> strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
> Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
> I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
> alum attached with epoxy and screws.
> What did others do?
>
> Thankyou,
>
> JohnW
>
> --
>
>
--
--
Message 16
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|
Jeff, I assume that the main reason why the radiator should be placed high
is so that air and steam (if any) will collect at the top, in the radiator
top collector, rather than bubbling up the hose to where the water pump is.
You don't want air or steam in the water pump.
And of course the other reason is that you want the water pump drawing the
coolest water, which is at the bottom of the radiator. If your radiator is
down low, the pump has to pull it up rather than having gravity assist it.
Let the water pump push the hot water to the radiator, which keeps pressure
on it and prevents cavitation.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up-to-date with your friends through the Windows Live Spaces friends
list.
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
Jeff,
I'm using an A-65. With 1.7 oz fabric and the Poly Fiber Process
Guess I've brought this up over and over, and if the group is sick of
it,,,sorry. I was lucky enough to meet an old timer,,AP,,the personal
mechanic/AP/redesigner, of Leo Loudenschlager<sp> 3 time (I think) world
champ aerobatic pilot.
And he became my Mentor
This guy is down to earth to the max. And , to me, his word/opinion was the
Gospel. He's still going strong, and his words always rattled in my head
about "keep it light"
Jeff, Yeah the good thing about thin ply , is that you don't have to scallop
the back, when the fabric gets tightened, it pulls it down real nice.
Bernard talked about this in one of his articles.
walt evans
NX140DL
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jeff Boatright" <jboatri@emory.edu>
Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 5:29 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
Walt, I don't know the answer for doing it, but
the builder of our Piet used aluminum as John is
planning to. Wow, 595 lbs empty! What engine are
you using?
John, I would not do it if I were you. On ours,
the shrinking of the fabric caused the aluminum
to go all wavy. I'm sure it cuts down on the
efficiency of the wing and it is ugly. I'd stick
with the plans, FWIW.
Jeff
At 5:12 PM -0500 12/16/06, walt evans wrote:
>Content-Type: text/plain;
> format=flowed;
> reply-type=original
>Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
>
>John,
>Don't understand why you would use aluminum.
>Sorry , I'm a stickler for following the plans.
>Calls for ply on the top leading edge only .
>Why would you put aluminum top and bottom with screws?
>John, only constructive critisism <sp>
>
>:^)
>
>If you cut strips of Clorox or cat litter bottles, you can staple right
>thru them. The next day when the glue is dry, grab the end of the strip and
>pull all the staples out in one strip. Then when you varnish,,,all becomes
>sealed.
>
>PS Still proud of the fact that I built 99.9% to the plans, (Bernard knew
>how to design), I never cut any corners, which means I never put on less
>then he designed.
>But I didn't add.
>Empty licenced weight,,,595#
>My friend Bob and I (both 200# plus'ers) can still climb out comfortabally
>with fuel aboard, from a 2550' long asphalt runway. No white knuckles
>here.
>
>Throw it up,,,if it comes back down, don't add it to the plane.
>
>
>walt evans
>NX140DL
>
>"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
>Ben Franklin
>----- Original Message ----- From: "Johnwoods" <johnwoods@westnet.com.au>
>To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Sent: Saturday, December 16, 2006 9:01 AM
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib
>
>>Can I have some advice please.
>>
>>I was reading thru the archives and read a post which said it wasn't
>>necessary to bolt the leading edge to the ribs (as per plans) because of
>>the
>>strength of modern glues such as T88 or West Systems.
>>Is gluing together with ply or alum LE cover sufficient?
>>I am using West Systems and intend to cover the top and bottom of LE with
>>alum attached with epoxy and screws.
>>What did others do?
>>
>>Thankyou,
>>
>>JohnW
>>
>>--
>>
>
>
>Attachment converted: BoatG5:walt 223.jpg (JPEG/IC) (00A61656)
--
_____________________________________________________________
Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
Associate Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA
Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis
mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
Message 18
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Gene, I will let you know what and when I plan to attend as far as fly ins, as
soon as I know which ones I will be going to. I hope to be able to attend as
many as possible this spring/ summer. I have limmited experiance with the longer
cross countries, but tennesee would be a long weekend trip. If you know of
any really good fly ins down in your neck of the woods let me know and I'll
think of heading down south of the old Mason Dixon Line. It's gonna take some
real getting used to the rebuilt corvair before I tackle the Apalatation (spelling)
mountians. I know these are considdered "Hills" to the far westerners
on the list, but I don't want to tear up Dad's Piet trying to be Wiley Post.
Have a merry Christmas, and to all a good night.
Shad
Gene & Tammy <zharvey@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Shad,
If you can, please post the dates of the differant fly-ins and locations for
those of us that are fairly new to this part of the world. I live in Tennessee
and as time permits I want to attend as many fly-ins as possible with my Piet.
Gene
N502R
----- Original Message -----
From: shad bell
To: Pietenpol Discussion
Sent: Friday, December 15, 2006 6:06 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Ohio Piets
Hello All, Dad and I will more than likely be at the WACO fly in this year at
Wyncoop in Mt Vrenon. If I am able I will also be at any other piet fly-ins
in the area. The waco fly in is pretty good, MERFI is also pretty good. I
like to see all the homebuilts and old "rag bags". As far as having to be an
all piet fly-in I say we just call it a taildragger fly-in. If we have it at
a "shorter" grass strip airport, say 2500- 3000ft runway (which some new hotshot
jet jockys call short), we will attract simmilar airplanes. Or maybe we call
it a homebuilt fly in, or grass roots fly in. I have a few guys here at Chapman
Field who want to get a fly in calender togeather and fly to some fly ins
as a group this summer. One has a Avid, one a Cub, And another few with an
L-3, a colt, and a Stinson 108. If we had it on grass it would probably discourage
the "Fast Glass" factory built "homebuilts". Although
href="http://www.aeroelectric.com">www.aeroelectric.com href="http://www.buildersbooks.com">www.buildersbooks.com href="http://www.kitlog.com">www.kitlog.com href="http://www.homebuilthelp.com">www.homebuilthelp.com href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/chref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
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Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Attaching Leading Edge to Rib |
Another thing I noticed is that the wing really stiffens up once the leading edge
ply is glued to the leading edge and to the ribs. Many things on the plans
work together and serve more purposes than just what might be first apparent.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=82022#82022
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: air tran to sun fun |
I just booked non stop too and from sun fun for $218.60 on air tran using
ther home page hope to see you ther mal michigan
Message 21
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Subject: | First (and second) Flight |
Hi Guys,
Here is a quick story of my first two flights. Both are very memorable
occasions......
I had finished the Pietenpol at the beginning of December and had the
Certificate of Airworthiness issued on the 3rd December 2006. I had to wait
a while for a new prop to be finished so I used my old home made prop for
ground runs. During the last week I carried out some high speed taxi runs
along the runway and found some temperature problems with the Corvair
engine, both oil temp and cylinder head temps. I improved the baffleing and
managed some better cooling figures. After a few high speed taxi runs the
oil temp was near the high end of normal but the cylinder temps were OK. My
old prop was developing 2500 rpm static. When the new one arrived, only 2300
rpm was realised. I also changed the castor angle on the tailwheel to make
the rudder more responsive on the ground. Yesterday I managed to get a few
flights down the runway with both props, all was looking good although the
prop rpm was still less than I would have liked.
Today dawned cool and calm so I decided the first flight was in order. I did
a high speed taxi first and after that was Ok I decided it was time to fly.
I applied full power and the Piet climbed gracefully into the circuit. The
rpm improved a little but was still well below the power band of the
Corvair. The aircraft handled well but with a need for slight left rudder to
maintain the heading. A good landing followed and I taxied back to the
hangar. On the way back to the hangar the oil temp was again climbing a
little higher than I liked.
I was feeling really good.
After an hour or so my hangar mate asked if I was going to do another
flight. He had missed the first one. I said yes and taxied out to the runway
again. The outside temp had gone up a few degrees and a slight breeze had
started, probably only a couple of knots or so. I taxied out to runway 22
(there are more out field landing areas at the end of 22 than on 04) and
started the take off roll with just a tad of tailwind. A slow climb out
followed with the feeling that the engine was not developing anywhere near
the full power. The temps were starting to climb higher than normal so I
made a tight circuit and lined up for a landing on the grass beside RW 22.
The airspeed was a little high over the fence so I pulled back the power and
pulled the nose slightly higher to reduce the speed. The flare was a little
fast and a bounce followed. I was about to catch it with power when the
engine quit. I hit the grass and with little airflow over the rudder, ground
looped the Piet into the embankment at the side of the runway. The starboard
undercarriage collapsed and I got a large ding in the leading edge of the
starboard wing near the tip when it connected with the post of the electric
fence along the top of the embankment.
So much for a good second flight.
With some help from the guys on the air field we managed to get the Piet
back into the hanger on a trike trailer.
Looks like I shall be buying some steel tubing for the undercarriage after
Christmas and carrying out the repair on the wing. I have enough materials
for that.
The conclusions? make sure the plane is running correctly before flying and
don't fly just to please someone else, especially in conditions that are not
what you are happy with.
I am still very happy that the first flight was successful and that the Piet
flies like it should. I just need to get the correct prop sorted out and the
repairs carried out and I will be a happy camper again.
I have posted some pictures on my web site at
http://www.cpc-world.com/main.php?insert_file=loop.php
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com
--
5:39 PM
Message 22
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Subject: | Re: First (and second) Flight |
Sorry to hear about the mishap. I do want to complement you on your great
photos that cleared up a few questions I had and gave me some solutions.
Your method for the turtle deck stringers was great, I could see doing that
allot easier than cutting all those slots and such.
-Scott
----- Original Message -----
From: "Peter W Johnson" <vk3eka@bigpond.net.au>
<pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 17, 2006 12:51 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: First (and second) Flight
> <vk3eka@bigpond.net.au>
>
> Hi Guys,
>
> Here is a quick story of my first two flights. Both are very memorable
> occasions......
>
>
> I had finished the Pietenpol at the beginning of December and had the
> Certificate of Airworthiness issued on the 3rd December 2006. I had to
> wait
> a while for a new prop to be finished so I used my old home made prop for
> ground runs. During the last week I carried out some high speed taxi runs
> along the runway and found some temperature problems with the Corvair
> engine, both oil temp and cylinder head temps. I improved the baffleing
> and
> managed some better cooling figures. After a few high speed taxi runs the
> oil temp was near the high end of normal but the cylinder temps were OK.
> My
> old prop was developing 2500 rpm static. When the new one arrived, only
> 2300
> rpm was realised. I also changed the castor angle on the tailwheel to make
> the rudder more responsive on the ground. Yesterday I managed to get a few
> flights down the runway with both props, all was looking good although the
> prop rpm was still less than I would have liked.
>
> Today dawned cool and calm so I decided the first flight was in order. I
> did
> a high speed taxi first and after that was Ok I decided it was time to
> fly.
> I applied full power and the Piet climbed gracefully into the circuit. The
> rpm improved a little but was still well below the power band of the
> Corvair. The aircraft handled well but with a need for slight left rudder
> to
> maintain the heading. A good landing followed and I taxied back to the
> hangar. On the way back to the hangar the oil temp was again climbing a
> little higher than I liked.
>
> I was feeling really good.
>
> After an hour or so my hangar mate asked if I was going to do another
> flight. He had missed the first one. I said yes and taxied out to the
> runway
> again. The outside temp had gone up a few degrees and a slight breeze had
> started, probably only a couple of knots or so. I taxied out to runway 22
> (there are more out field landing areas at the end of 22 than on 04) and
> started the take off roll with just a tad of tailwind. A slow climb out
> followed with the feeling that the engine was not developing anywhere near
> the full power. The temps were starting to climb higher than normal so I
> made a tight circuit and lined up for a landing on the grass beside RW 22.
> The airspeed was a little high over the fence so I pulled back the power
> and
> pulled the nose slightly higher to reduce the speed. The flare was a
> little
> fast and a bounce followed. I was about to catch it with power when the
> engine quit. I hit the grass and with little airflow over the rudder,
> ground
> looped the Piet into the embankment at the side of the runway. The
> starboard
> undercarriage collapsed and I got a large ding in the leading edge of the
> starboard wing near the tip when it connected with the post of the
> electric
> fence along the top of the embankment.
>
> So much for a good second flight.
>
> With some help from the guys on the air field we managed to get the Piet
> back into the hanger on a trike trailer.
>
> Looks like I shall be buying some steel tubing for the undercarriage after
> Christmas and carrying out the repair on the wing. I have enough materials
> for that.
>
> The conclusions? make sure the plane is running correctly before flying
> and
> don't fly just to please someone else, especially in conditions that are
> not
> what you are happy with.
>
> I am still very happy that the first flight was successful and that the
> Piet
> flies like it should. I just need to get the correct prop sorted out and
> the
> repairs carried out and I will be a happy camper again.
>
>
> I have posted some pictures on my web site at
> http://www.cpc-world.com/main.php?insert_file=loop.php
>
> Cheers
>
> Peter
> Wonthaggi Australia
> http://www.cpc-world.com
>
> --
> 5:39 PM
>
>
>
Message 23
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Subject: | Re: radiators low? |
Having the radiator set high also helps with a thermal siphoning effect. The Model
T engines originally used no water pump at all. They relied on thermal siphoning.
As the water in the engine heated it rose up the pipe into the top
of the radiator where it was cooled and sank being taken back into the engine
by the lower hose. My '14 T will run all day long in Central CA's 100+ summer
heat without any heating problems. Model A's on the other hand had a pump but
the thermal siphon effect has to do it's part.
Jeff, I assume that the main reason why the radiator should be placed high
is so that air and steam (if any) will collect at the top, in the radiator
top collector, rather than bubbling up the hose to where the water pump is.
You don't want air or steam in the water pump.
And of course the other reason is that you want the water pump drawing the
coolest water, which is at the bottom of the radiator. If your radiator is
down low, the pump has to pull it up rather than having gravity assist it.
Let the water pump push the hot water to the radiator, which keeps pressure
on it and prevents cavitation.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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