Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 09:49 AM - together again (Oscar Zuniga)
2. 10:01 AM - Re: together again (Isablcorky@aol.com)
3. 10:20 AM - aileron droop okay (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
4. 11:11 AM - Re: together again (Rcaprd@aol.com)
5. 04:48 PM - Elevators (Steve Singleton)
6. 06:42 PM - Re: Elevators (Don Emch)
7. 07:55 PM - Re: Re: Elevators (Steve Singleton)
Message 1
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Had a pretty nice Christmas day, assembling wings back onto the fuselage of
41CC. Dusted off all the parts and pieces and it went together fairly
smoothly. Struts and brace cables, wing gap covers, nuts and bolts,
everything but inspection covers (waiting for A&P to do the annual).
Interesting to see how it rigged out without adjusting anything or moving
anything. The wing has about 3" of dihedral and about 2 degrees of washout.
I believe that the dihedral is exactly per Corky's original rigging, but
not sure about the washout. I'll keep it as-is for test flights and see how
it flies.
We checked dihedral by stretching a cord from wingtip to wingtip right at
the front spar, then measuring the dihedral at the wing center section. We
checked washout using a 3/4" plywood template that I cut out, leaving the
top edge square and the bottom following the curve of the wing top surface
from nose (leading edge) to about the aft spar station. We put this
template on top of the ribs at root and out near the tip, with a digital
level on top of the template, to determine angles at root and tip, obtaining
washout by difference. Pretty accurate.
With the stick centered, the ailerons (piano hinged) rig out with their
trailing edges just a tad below the TE of the wing on both sides. My test
pilot Charlie says he remembers it flying this way originally; I'll have to
look through the in-flight photos to see if that's so. I can take out the
droop and bring the TEs of the ailerons into perfect trail with the wing TE
if need be, but I wanted to put it all back together the way it originally
was before tweaking anything. Wing gap covers went back on with all holes
lining up perfectly, so that's a good sign.
Winds were gusting over 35 kts at Zapata County Airport yesterday as a
strong cold front blew through, so no taxi testing yet! Sure was good to
see the airplane looking like an airplane again.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: together again |
The aileron drop, relative to the rest of the wing is correct. I based this
rigging on the L-16 from Liaison Piot School ( Aeronca ). Don't make them
even. The elevators will drop slightly also in level flight. Note the air to air
pics I have posted. Happy and Safe flying
Corky
Message 3
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| Subject: | aileron droop okay |
Oscar-- my IA and friend 78 year old Don Helmick said they used to rig
the ailerons on planes like DC-3's, Aeronca's, and Cubs with a little
droop in each
aileron so that in flight the aero forces would make them align nicely
with the trailing edge. I think mine droop about 3/16" to 1/4" on the
ground and in
flight, nice and true w/ the wing trailing edge.
Mike C.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: together again |
Oscar,
41CC got a great Christmas present when you got all her parts back on !!
I keep my ailerons rigged even with the trailing edge, and there is no
difference in flight. Washout is not really necessary in a Hershey Bar Wing,
because this planform inherently begins to stall inboard, and progresses to the
outboard. However, it would be best to err toward washout. On a perfectly
straight wing, rigging the trailing edge of the ailerons UP will (by reducing
the angle of attack) cause washout. The drooped trailing edge of the
flippers seems to be a Pietenpol characteristic.
Chuck G.
Message 5
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Hi everyone-hope everyone had a safe and Merry Christmas. I'm fitting
togeather the elevators and am curious to know if I should start the
taper on the end pieces from the main beam to the trailing edge from the
main beam or should I start the taper at or just behind the center beam.
Thanks. Steve Singleton
Message 6
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I think I kept mine the same thickness until the last few inches and then tried
to taper it down to nicely match the trailing edge piece. It probably doesn't
matter much, but I guess I tried to err on the side of holding that thickness
for rigidity. The elevators and rudders are fairly flexible when they are complete.
In flight, however I'm sure there isn't much flexing.
Don Emch
NX899DE
P.S. Definitely the time of year that I miss building!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83681#83681
Message 7
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Thanks Don. I fitted one together tapering from the center beam but like the
idea of holding the thickness until farther back. Another question-is there
any structural difference between Birch plywood and mahogany. I had in mind
to use mahogany but may go with birch if there is a big price difference. I
know this must be an age old question but is there any where else other than
Wicks or spruce to buy plywood? Thanks. Steve Singleton
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, December 26, 2006 8:41 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Elevators
>
> I think I kept mine the same thickness until the last few inches and then
> tried to taper it down to nicely match the trailing edge piece. It
> probably doesn't matter much, but I guess I tried to err on the side of
> holding that thickness for rigidity. The elevators and rudders are fairly
> flexible when they are complete. In flight, however I'm sure there isn't
> much flexing.
> Don Emch
> NX899DE
> P.S. Definitely the time of year that I miss building!
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=83681#83681
>
>
>
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