Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:10 AM - Re: Preventing runaways when starting engine... (Clif Dawson)
2. 07:21 AM - preventing runaways when starting engine... (Oscar Zuniga)
3. 09:05 AM - Tail anchors (Roman Bukolt)
4. 10:06 AM - Re: Preventing runaways when starting engine... (Joe Krzes)
5. 10:35 AM - Re: Preventing runaways when starting engine... (Steve Glass)
6. 01:11 PM - Lift Struts (Irwin Fust)
7. 01:51 PM - Re: Lift Struts (walt evans)
8. 05:47 PM - Re: Lift Struts (Don Emch)
9. 06:04 PM - Re: Re: Lift Struts (Jeff Boatright)
10. 06:19 PM - Re: next year (Clif Dawson)
11. 08:36 PM - Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing (Glenn Thomas)
12. 08:59 PM - Re: Re: Lift Struts (Dick Navratil)
13. 09:01 PM - Re: Lift Struts (Dick Navratil)
14. 09:46 PM - Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing (Peter W Johnson)
15. 10:00 PM - Re: Re: Lift Struts (Rcaprd@aol.com)
16. 11:42 PM - airplane songs (Clif Dawson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Preventing runaways when starting engine... |
Here's a pic of the Tigermoth at Delta Airpark. You can see the
two sets of switches, each set just ahead of each cockpit.
This particular plane has the all-weather canopy used in WW11
training command. Unfortunately the front set of switches is
inside the windscreen, but still reachable.
Clif
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: tailhooks
Years ago, I installed auxiliary ignition switches on the right side
of the fuselage near the firewall where I can keep my left hand on them
while swinging the propeller from behind it. With this arrangement, I
can "kill" the engine should things threaten to get out of hand. (These
auxiliary switches are connected in parallel with those in the cockpit.)
Message 2
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| Subject: | preventing runaways when starting engine... |
There are some good photos and ideas for a tailhook release on the Fly Baby
site, at
http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/tailhook.html
The top one is a standard "off-the-shelf" tailhook release that you've all
seen. The center one is the most interesting homebuilt one, and the bottom
one has the clever (if tricky) feature of not needing a separate release
control... it's hooked to the rudder horn such that when you kick left
rudder, it releases the tail tiedown. Nifty, but I'd worry a bit about
kicking rudder while climbing into the cockpit, thus starting the airplane
rolling when the pilot isn't even settled into the cockpit yet. Or, worse,
an unknowing passenger punching the rudder pedal while the pilot is still
out front propping.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Experience the magic of the holidays. Talk to Santa on Messenger.
Message 3
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About securing the tail while using the "Armstrong Starter":
I'll try to decsribe my method without drawings.
I have a 10ft. length of 3/16" braided nylon line, holding strength 1200
lbs. tensile.
Each end has a loop with about a 1" inside diameter.
About 1 ft. from one end I have a large spike about 1/4" dia. and 4"
long tied to the 3/16 line with a light 3/32" line about 1" long. Also
attached to the head of the spike I have another 15 ft. of that same
light line with a small hook made from a coat hanger attached to the
other end.
OK, this is how ti works.
The 10 ft. x 3/16 line is wrapped around a post or other secure anchor
and around the tail wheel leaf spring.
One loop is threaded through the other loop and the spike is then
inserted half way through that same loop and pulled snug so that the
loop cannot pull out.
Move the plane forward until all is tight.
Run the 15ft. length of light line up to the cockpit and secure it with
the hook to the cabane or whatever is convenient.
Start trhe engine, climb in the plane, get yourself all strapped in and
ready to go.
Now, unhook the light line, pull on it and the spike will slip out of
the loop allowing the loop disengage.
Because the spike is tied to the 3/16 line and to the 15 ft. light line,
you simply reel in the whole assembly and tuck it in your cockpit..
Simple, cheap, works every time, weighs little and takes about 15 minute
to "mnanufacture".
Roman Bukolt NX20795
Message 4
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| Subject: | Preventing runaways when starting engine... |
I found an article on the net a few years back that shows a simple device.
I have a copy of the article here:
<http://www.hal-pc.org/~hjkr/tiedn.htm>
or
<http://www.hal-pc.org/~hjkr/tiednqwkrel.jpg>
If the link doesn't work, I can email a copy of the jpg file.
Looks like it loops around the tail wheel and a tie down and incorporates a
quick release.
Joe
_________________________________________________________________
Experience the magic of the holidays. Talk to Santa on Messenger.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Preventing runaways when starting engine... |
Hi Everybody and Happy New Year
Has anybody tried a "snapshackle" for this. A snap shackle is a small piece
of sailing hardmare made of stainless steel and designed to be opened
underload. A 1000 pound swl snapshackle would be about $15-20 at a marine
store.
Steve in Maine
>From: "Joe Krzes" <jkrzes@hotmail.com>
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Preventing runaways when starting engine...
>Date: Tue, 02 Jan 2007 12:06:07 -0600
>
>
>I found an article on the net a few years back that shows a simple device.
>I have a copy of the article here:
>
><http://www.hal-pc.org/~hjkr/tiedn.htm>
>
>or
>
><http://www.hal-pc.org/~hjkr/tiednqwkrel.jpg>
>
>If the link doesn't work, I can email a copy of the jpg file.
>Looks like it loops around the tail wheel and a tie down and incorporates a
>quick release.
>
>Joe
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Experience the magic of the holidays. Talk to Santa on Messenger.
>
>
_________________________________________________________________
The MSN Entertainment Guide to Golden Globes is here. Get all the scoop.
http://tv.msn.com/tv/globes2007/
Message 6
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Happy New Year to all the Pietenpol folks! I have a question to start
out the new year.
I am still working on my Piet and have gotten to the point where I want
to mate the wing to the fuselage. I will be building lift struts for
the occasion. I have available two rear lift struts from a J-3 and
don't know if they would work as rear struts on the Piet. They are
1-3/4 X 1 and I would like to know if they would be strong enough to do
the job? My plan is to use 2-38 X 1 struts for the front.
What is the prevailing opinion?
I know you guys are not shy about sharing your knowledge so, thanks in
advance.
Irwin
Message 7
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I used 4 rear struts from a Cub for my struts. They were discarded due to an
AD years ago about the size of the thread fork on the bottom. It was like a
3/8 thread and had to go to 1/2 or something like that. So they had to take
all these struts off.
So human nature as it is, everyone takes them off and sticks them up in the
hanger rafters. I got permission and went into the hangers and there were
LOADS of them.
they are long enough where you cut off about 1 foot on each end so you can
eyeball the inside for condition. All the ones I happen to pick, still had
the preserving oil inside. Good to go
walt evans
NX140DL
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Irwin Fust" <ifust@digitalpath.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 4:07 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lift Struts
>
> Happy New Year to all the Pietenpol folks! I have a question to start out
> the new year.
> I am still working on my Piet and have gotten to the point where I want to
> mate the wing to the fuselage. I will be building lift struts for the
> occasion. I have available two rear lift struts from a J-3 and don't know
> if they would work as rear struts on the Piet. They are
> 1-3/4 X 1 and I would like to know if they would be strong enough to do
> the job? My plan is to use 2-38 X 1 struts for the front.
> What is the prevailing opinion?
> I know you guys are not shy about sharing your knowledge so, thanks in
> advance.
> Irwin
>
>
>
Message 8
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I did the same as Walt. I know of several others that have also done the same.
I did not use adjustable barrels at the end as many do. I just flattened the
ends somewhat and welded teardrop reinforcing patches at the bolt locations.
They work out really well. I have a very slight left wing heaviness and it
would be nice to be able to adjust a barrel to get rid of it. Eventually I may
make another fitting for the top of the strut to adjust this some but until
then it isn't noticeable enough to bother with.
Do you guys with cub type eyebrows on Continental engines have trouble getting
the oil temp. up in cooler weather. I stopped on the way home from work tonight
and got about half an hour or so in and never saw above 110 deg. oil temp.
Outside air temp. was 38 deg. A couple of days ago it was upper 40's, flew for
over an hour and never saw more than 115 deg. The thing I really don't like
about this is the condensation that forms and comes out the oil breather at
these temps. Can't imagine what the water condensation is doing to the inside
of the engine.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85073#85073
Message 9
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Don,
We had to put a "diaper" on the oil tank to get temps up in cooler
weather. Works fine.
Jeff
>
>I did the same as Walt. I know of several others that have also
>done the same. I did not use adjustable barrels at the end as many
>do. I just flattened the ends somewhat and welded teardrop
>reinforcing patches at the bolt locations. They work out really
>well. I have a very slight left wing heaviness and it would be nice
>to be able to adjust a barrel to get rid of it. Eventually I may
>make another fitting for the top of the strut to adjust this some
>but until then it isn't noticeable enough to bother with.
>
>Do you guys with cub type eyebrows on Continental engines have
>trouble getting the oil temp. up in cooler weather. I stopped on
>the way home from work tonight and got about half an hour or so in
>and never saw above 110 deg. oil temp. Outside air temp. was 38
>deg. A couple of days ago it was upper 40's, flew for over an hour
>and never saw more than 115 deg. The thing I really don't like
>about this is the condensation that forms and comes out the oil
>breather at these temps. Can't imagine what the water condensation
>is doing to the inside of the engine.
>
>Don Emch
>NX899DE
>
--
Jeffrey H. Boatright, Ph.D.
Associate Professor
Department of Ophthalmology
Emory University School of Medicine
Atlanta, GA 30322
Editor-in-Chief
Molecular Vision
http://www.molvis.org/
Message 10
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I grew up in Sidney, 20 minutes north of Victoria,
at least it was the way I drive. :-) The first time I
saw long beach was in 63. Prior to that there was
no land route in, only coastal steamer and float
plane. That road was littered with mufflers! If you
want storm evidence, how's this. A 2ft by 40ft log
jammed in a crack in the cliff 30ft above the beach!
Great trip. Good food, good people and a couple
of Piets. ( one Ford )
Clif
Do not archive
----- Original Message -----
From: harvey.rule@bell.ca
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 5:42 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: next year
Happy New Year to you as well! Enjoy Victoria it is a beautiful
place.While you are there go up Island to Long Beach and do one of the
storm watch's.I think you will like it.Enjoy your trip what ever you do!
Do not archive
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Clif
Dawson
Sent: December 31, 2006 2:20 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: next year
Happy New Year to you all!!
I'll see you next year. :-)
It's off to Victoria( Vancouver
Island) for me at first light.
Clif
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
1/1/2007 2:50 PM
Message 11
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| Subject: | Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing |
I know this was mentioned not too long ago. I attempted to find it in the archives
but couldn't...
Do you make the whole side one big gusset for the rib where the wing connects to
the center section? Also, do you also make the outside of the center section
one big gusset as well? Seems like you would want to do this in order to have
a place to end the fabric at covering time. Do you make lightening holes (access
holes?) or leave it as a solid piece?
Thanks in advance
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85110#85110
Message 12
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Don
That temp is what I get at that temp range. I have been thinking of making
a insulated blanket to cover the oil tank. You don't want to think about
restricting the airflow over the cylinders though.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Don Emch" <EmchAir@aol.com>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 7:46 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Lift Struts
>
> I did the same as Walt. I know of several others that have also done the
> same. I did not use adjustable barrels at the end as many do. I just
> flattened the ends somewhat and welded teardrop reinforcing patches at the
> bolt locations. They work out really well. I have a very slight left
> wing heaviness and it would be nice to be able to adjust a barrel to get
> rid of it. Eventually I may make another fitting for the top of the strut
> to adjust this some but until then it isn't noticeable enough to bother
> with.
>
> Do you guys with cub type eyebrows on Continental engines have trouble
> getting the oil temp. up in cooler weather. I stopped on the way home
> from work tonight and got about half an hour or so in and never saw above
> 110 deg. oil temp. Outside air temp. was 38 deg. A couple of days ago it
> was upper 40's, flew for over an hour and never saw more than 115 deg.
> The thing I really don't like about this is the condensation that forms
> and comes out the oil breather at these temps. Can't imagine what the
> water condensation is doing to the inside of the engine.
>
> Don Emch
> NX899DE
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85073#85073
>
>
>
Message 13
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My opinion is, save the weight and use all rear struts if available. They
are plenty strong.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Irwin Fust" <ifust@digitalpath.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 02, 2007 3:07 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Lift Struts
>
> Happy New Year to all the Pietenpol folks! I have a question to start out
> the new year.
> I am still working on my Piet and have gotten to the point where I want to
> mate the wing to the fuselage. I will be building lift struts for the
> occasion. I have available two rear lift struts from a J-3 and don't know
> if they would work as rear struts on the Piet. They are
> 1-3/4 X 1 and I would like to know if they would be strong enough to do
> the job? My plan is to use 2-38 X 1 struts for the front.
> What is the prevailing opinion?
> I know you guys are not shy about sharing your knowledge so, thanks in
> advance.
> Irwin
>
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing |
Glenn,
I did, check out http://www.cpc-world.com Go to Airframe Construction >
Wings > Wing Ribs. Photo is third from the bottom. I left space at each spar
to get a spanner in to tighten the wing attach bolts.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Thomas
Sent: Wednesday, 3 January 2007 3:36 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing
<glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
I know this was mentioned not too long ago. I attempted to find it in the
archives but couldn't...
Do you make the whole side one big gusset for the rib where the wing
connects to the center section? Also, do you also make the outside of the
center section one big gusset as well? Seems like you would want to do this
in order to have a place to end the fabric at covering time. Do you make
lightening holes (access holes?) or leave it as a solid piece?
Thanks in advance
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85110#85110
--
2:58 PM
--
2:58 PM
Message 15
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In a message dated 1/2/2007 7:48:46 PM Central Standard Time, EmchAir@aol.com
writes:
Do you guys with cub type eyebrows on Continental engines have trouble
getting the oil temp. up in cooler weather. I stopped on the way home from work
tonight and got about half an hour or so in and never saw above 110 deg. oil
temp. Outside air temp. was 38 deg. A couple of days ago it was upper 40's, flew
for over an hour and never saw more than 115 deg. The thing I really don't
like about this is the condensation that forms and comes out the oil breather
at these temps. Can't imagine what the water condensation is doing to the
inside of the engine.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Don,
I see similar temps with my engine, and have similar concerns with the
condensation, although I've never seen any milky residue in the breather tube.
I
made a 1" hole at the aft end of each eyebrow, and have a tin plug to use, if it
was too much. Really couldn't see much difference in temps. I'm going to
resort to the blanket for the kidney oil tank, and maybe even an additional 1"
hole.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
Message 16
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http://www.oscarbrand.com/
Go to "catalogue orders"
Go down to "special order tapes"
Go down to "Up in the Air"
Clif
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