Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 12:55 AM - Low oil temps in winter (Shawn Wolk)
     2. 04:06 AM - rib stiching advice (Douwe Blumberg)
     3. 05:54 AM - Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing (Glenn Thomas)
     4. 09:13 AM - Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing (Bill Church)
     5. 11:24 AM - Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing (Glenn Thomas)
     6. 12:54 PM - Re: rib stiching advice (Mike Luther)
     7. 02:36 PM - Re: Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing (Peter W Johnson)
     8. 03:00 PM - Re: rib stiching advice (Rcaprd@aol.com)
     9. 03:23 PM - Re: Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing (walt evans)
    10. 04:20 PM - Oil Temperature (Don Emch)
    11. 04:31 PM - Re: Low oil temps in winter (Don Emch)
    12. 04:36 PM - Re: rib stiching advice (Don Emch)
    13. 04:47 PM - Re: rib construction (Dale Johnson)
    14. 05:07 PM - Re: Re: Oil breather condensation and cold weather flying (shad bell)
    15. 05:33 PM - Re: Oil breather condensation and cold weather flying (Don Emch)
    16. 08:42 PM - skis (Oscar Zuniga)
 
 
 
Message 1
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Low oil temps in winter | 
      
         I've been battling the low oil temperature issue for a few years. I 
      have been able to get 185F at 38F outside. 176F at 30-32 and 167F at 18 
      - 20F on my A-65. The current setup hasn't been tested any cooler this 
      year yet as I recently changed a baffle design and we have had 
      unseasonally mild weather here. I have a J-3 style cowling with original 
      J-3 eyebrows. I'm assuming you already have the lower cylinder baffles 
      installed as these are left on year round. The following is a list of 
      modifications that I complete for winter operations.
      
      materials required: 
      Some standard grade aluminium sheet...say .032-.040. No need for fancy 
      stuff here.
      A roll of the aluminium tape. The very soft shiny stuff.
      A roll of the insulated duct wrap that has a sticky sided foam about 
      1/4" thick with an aluminium foil outside.
      
      -Wrap the oil tank with the insulated duct wrap. leave an open area at 
      the back (say 25% of it) without the insulation. I then use a insulated 
      hood from from an old parka and also wrap this around the oil tank. And 
      again I leave the back area open. The back area open allows the oil to 
      get warmed up when I am preheating the engine.
      -Wrap all the intake tubes with the insulated duct wrap. I then safety 
      wire the wrap around the tubes to secure it even though it does stick to 
      the tubes.
      -I also stick the insulated wrap to the front of the engine case, and 
      the top of the engine case. (I'm trying to retain as much heat as 
      possible. The aluminium tape can be used to assist retaining some of 
      this wrap. As well as securing with safety wire when possible.
      -I install baffle plates that block off the airflow from the top of the 
      eyebrow downward over the barrel portion of the cylinder to the height 
      of the exhaust flange then outward to the valve cover and downward to 
      the lower cowling. Now in the area from a line at the exhaust flange 
      upward to the top of the cylinder in the head portion of the cylinder 
      the baffle here has 10 holes in it. (this is my latest mod., prior I 
      tried blocking it off but I believe it was causing the front cylinders 
      to run too hot) So far up to 18-20F I can run w/o closing up any holes. 
      When the temps drop, my plan is to partially block the holes with some 
      tape. Thus still allowing airflow...but limiting it.
      -Either with tape or with some sheet aluminium. Block off the top of the 
      eyebrow about 2" from the highest point of the eyebrow.
      -Tape over the hole in the front of the cowling above the air intake 
      that blows on the lower engine case above the carburetor.
      -Tape over gap (if any) between cowling and air filter assembly.
      
         If anyone wants further info...I can email a picture. Currently I 
      don't have any pics but could easily provide some.
      
         I have also made some other winter mods for improved carb heat and 
      cabin heat. (very little...mostly directed at my feet) I have made 
      cylindrical heat muffs that mount on the exposed exhaust manifolds. I 
      have wrapped springs around the manifold first before these are 
      installed to increase heat exchange. On one side the heat muff has a 
      series of restrictor holes facing forward. The muff is then ducted into 
      the J-3 style dual heat muff and then through a heat box to two hoses 
      directed at my feet. On the other side the opening on the heat muff is 
      around the back of the muff. And then is ducted to the carb heat side of 
      the J-3 style dual heat muff. Normally the carb heat and cabin heat 
      muffs get there air from the front of the cowling. The cabin heat side 
      still gets some ram, but the carb heat side doesn't need ram effect as 
      the engine will suck the air in. Both of these additional muffs work as 
      preheaters for the original style systems.
      
         Shawn Wolk
         Winnipeg. MB
         C-FRAZ 1933 Pietenpol Aircamper.
         'already 25 hours on skis this season...yippee'
      
Message 2
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | rib stiching advice | 
      
      Mike,
      
      I havn't been keeping current, so if this has been suggested already, 
      oops!
      
      Once you're stood the wing on it's leading edge, and gotten your 
      multiple needles (however many you get comfortable with, I used three) 
      mark where your holes will go on the entire wing, then get a sharp 
      pointed soldering iron and burn a hole at each mark.  This makes the 
      stiching go SO much easier, and I found I could look through the hole 
      next to it and actuall see through the wing much of the time.
      
      You'll also find that you'll develop a good feel for finding the other 
      hole.  And yes, do get a buddy.  Bright lights are also helpful.
      
      Douwe
      
Message 3
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing | 
      
      
      Peter,
      Thanks for the response.  Picture shows me exactly what I was wondering about.
      
      Question: Do the ribs with the vertical members go on the wing tip end AND the
      root?  I see them in your picture on the root ribs.  I've got 15 ribs to go and
      I'm trying to figure out how many of them are of the non-standard type (different
      gussets, vertical truss members, etc.) since once the standard ones are
      done changes will need to be made to the jig.
      
      Great site, thanks!
      
      --------
      Glenn Thomas
      N?????
      http://www.flyingwood.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85154#85154
      
      
Message 4
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing | 
      
      Glenn,
      
      Per the official BHP (Vi Kapler 3 piece wing) plans, there is NO big
      side gusset on the butt ribs at the center section. These ribs DO have
      the additional vertical truss pieces, PLUS there is a 2" wide strip of
      1/16" plywood glued to the top and bottom cap strips of the butt ribs.
      The 2" wide strip should provide plenty of area to firmly attach the
      fabric (it's actually there to provide lateral bracing when the fabric
      shrinks).
      I haven't got to the point of constructing my center-section yet, but I
      think you would want the butt ribs to be as open as possible for
      inspection purposes and when it comes time to route and attach the
      aileron cables etc. - closing off the ribs with a solid gusset would
      restrict access (holes would need to be cut). On the other hand, I have
      seen quite a few pictures that show a big full-rib gusset. I believe the
      UK plans have a big gusset, but those plans also incorporate a
      quick-disconnect for the aileron controls. I also think that the Grega
      GN-1 plans have a solid plywood butt-rib (but I could be wrong on that
      one - I haven't actually seen the GN-1 plans). In short, I don't think
      the big gusset is really necessary - but some builders seem to opt for
      it.
      
      Bill C.
      
      
Message 5
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing | 
      
      
      Bill,
      I guess that neither way poses a problem but may take the route of less wood/weight
      and leave the end open.  Just wondered if closing in the end was helpful
      in keeping out moisture that sneaks through that seal at the wing joint. 
      
      Thanks!
      
      --------
      Glenn Thomas
      N?????
      http://www.flyingwood.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85223#85223
      
      
Message 6
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: rib stiching advice | 
      
      Douwe,
      Thanks for the additional advice, I finished lacing both wings last Monday "New
      Years Day".   I worked alone and used four needles.  I stood the wing up and
      had plenty of light on both sides of the wing to help look through the wing to
      see the hole on the other side. 
      Mike
      
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net> 
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: rib stiching advice 
      
      > Mike, 
      > 
      > I havn't been keeping current, so if this has been suggested 
      > already, oops! 
      > 
      > Once you're stood the wing on it's leading edge, and gotten your 
      > multiple needles (however many you get comfortable with, I used 
      > three) mark where your holes will go on the entire wing, then get 
      > a sharp pointed soldering iron and burn a hole at each mark.  This 
      > makes the stiching go SO much easier, and I found I could look 
      > through the hole next to it and actuall see through the wing much 
      > of the time. 
      > 
      > You'll also find that you'll develop a good feel for finding the 
      > other hole.  And yes, do get a buddy.  Bright lights are also helpful. 
      > 
      > Douwe
      
Message 7
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing | 
      
      
      Glenn
      
      As far as I can remember they were only on the root rib ends, two on the
      center section and two on the wing roots.
      
      I built my Piet to the UK plans with the aileron quick connect.
      
      Cheers
      
      Peter
      
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Thomas
      Sent: Thursday, 4 January 2007 12:54 AM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing
      
      <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
      
      Peter,
      Thanks for the response.  Picture shows me exactly what I was wondering
      about.
      
      Question: Do the ribs with the vertical members go on the wing tip end AND
      the root?  I see them in your picture on the root ribs.  I've got 15 ribs to
      go and I'm trying to figure out how many of them are of the non-standard
      type (different gussets, vertical truss members, etc.) since once the
      standard ones are done changes will need to be made to the jig.
      
      Great site, thanks!
      
      --------
      Glenn Thomas
      N?????
      http://www.flyingwood.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85154#85154
      
      
      -- 
      2:58 PM
      
      
      -- 
      2:58 PM
      
      
Message 8
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: rib stiching advice | 
      
      In a message dated 1/3/2007 2:57:00 PM Central Standard Time, luther@gci.net 
      writes:
      Douwe,
      Thanks for the additional advice, I finished lacing both wings last Monday 
      "New Years Day".   I worked alone and used four needles.  I stood the wing up 
      and had plenty of light on both sides of the wing to help look through the wing
      
      to see the hole on the other side. 
      Mike
      Mike,
      Did you happen to count how many stiches you put in ?  I seem to remember I 
      put almost 500 stiches in my one piece wing.
      
      Chuck G.
      NX770CG
      
Message 9
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing | 
      
      
      Glen,
      The ribs with the vertical sticks go both on the tip and the root ribs. The 
      root ribs also get the 2" wide ply,(very important)  this stops the root rib 
      from distorting sideways, and pulling toward the tip.
      This stops the fabric that changes direction, not to distort the rib. (the 
      fabric has GREAT strength,) and when you taughten the fabric, you'll hear 
      creaks and groans.
      You need a nice straight root rib to match up to your center section, so you 
      can fit the alum. seal between the two.
      (I used roof  flashing from Home Depot, on a roll.)
      walt evans
      NX140DL
      
      "Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
      Ben Franklin
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
      Sent: Wednesday, January 03, 2007 8:54 AM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Root Rib - 3 Piece Wing
      
      
      > <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
      >
      > Peter,
      > Thanks for the response.  Picture shows me exactly what I was wondering 
      > about.
      >
      > Question: Do the ribs with the vertical members go on the wing tip end AND 
      > the root?  I see them in your picture on the root ribs.  I've got 15 ribs 
      > to go and I'm trying to figure out how many of them are of the 
      > non-standard type (different gussets, vertical truss members, etc.) since 
      > once the standard ones are done changes will need to be made to the jig.
      >
      > Great site, thanks!
      >
      > --------
      > Glenn Thomas
      > N?????
      > http://www.flyingwood.com
      >
      >
      > Read this topic online here:
      >
      > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85154#85154
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
Message 10
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
      
      
      Thanks guys for the advice on the oil temperatures.  I suppose it's better to have
      low temps. rather than high temps.  But it is strange to be flying around
      and see relatively low temperatures.  These recent flights have been my first
      flights with the cooler weather.  For the time of year though we have had fantastic
      flying weather.
      
      I think I'm going to try the blanket idea too.  I'll look into the different suppliers
      and see what I can find.
      
      Thanks again guys!
      Don Emch
      NX899DE
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85274#85274
      
      
Message 11
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Low oil temps in winter | 
      
      
      Shawn,
      I missed your posting before I posted the last message.  I'm going to print off
      your suggestions and try to use some of them.  I think you have some great ideas.
      I plan to continue flying right on through the winter.  In my opinion it
      is some of the nicest flying weather.  I have a firewall mount heat box that
      I thought about making up a muff for it.  It would be nice to have 'not as cold'
      air blowing up my pant leg! Thinking about some homemade wooden skis now! 
      Just need that snow.
      
      Don Emch
      NX899DE
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85277#85277
      
      
Message 12
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: rib stiching advice | 
      
      
      Hello Douwe,
      I remember meeting and talking with you at Brodhead.  How is your project coming
      along?  If I remember correctly you were in contact with Larry Williams.  I
      seemed to have lost his current email address.  Would you happen to have it? 
      My email is EmchAir@aol.com, if you happen to have it could you send it to me?
      
      Thanks!
      Don Emch
      NX899DE
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85279#85279
      
      
Message 13
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | rib construction | 
      
      
      Hi Ben
      I am trying to figure out what you are doing wrong.No notching required. 
      Send pictures or send phone # .
      Or send me your address I have some spare rib sections.
      Dale Mpls
      
      
      > [Original Message]
      > From: Ben Ramler <ben_ramler2002@yahoo.com>
      > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
      > Date: 12/31/2006 2:06:36 PM
      > Subject: Pietenpol-List: rib construction
      >
      <ben_ramler2002@yahoo.com>
      >
      > Hello Group,
      >
      >  Hopefully everyone had great christmas! My question is on the rib
      costruction. I've got my first rib almost done however my question is on
      the gusset plate that sits on the sides of the rib in front. does 2 1/8" x
      3/4: sound right? then what about this 1/2x1/2" block that the plans talk
      about does that somehow get nothced out and gets glued in? If anyone wants
      see pictures I can post some.
      >
      >
      > Thanks,
      >
      > Ben Ramler
      > St. Cloud, MN
      >
      > __________________________________________________
      >
      >
      
      
Message 14
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Oil breather condensation and cold weather flying | 
      
      Don, you may already know this but,  One thing to consider about that condensation,
      If it is cold enough your breather tube can freeze.  On a most certified
      aircraft the breather tube will have a hole cut in the front side about 6-12
      inches from the end.  The hole is usually kept inside the cowling so the warm
      air exiting at the bottom will keep the breather tube above freezing, and would
      let the crankcase breath if the end out in the slipstream freezes. 
        Shad 
      
      Don Emch <EmchAir@aol.com> wrote:
      
      Do you guys with cub type eyebrows on Continental engines have trouble getting
      the oil temp. up in cooler weather. I stopped on the way home from work tonight
      and got about half an hour or so in and never saw above 110 deg. oil temp. Outside
      air temp. was 38 deg. A couple of days ago it was upper 40's, flew for
      over an hour and never saw more than 115 deg. The thing I really don't like about
      this is the condensation that forms and comes out the oil breather at these
      temps. Can't imagine what the water condensation is doing to the inside of the
      engine.
      
      Don Emch
      NX899DE
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85073#85073
      
      
       __________________________________________________
      
Message 15
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: Oil breather condensation and cold weather flying | 
      
      
      Thanks Shad, I did not know that.  I will keep an eye on it and may even add a
      hole.
      
      Thanks again,
      
      Don Emch
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=85288#85288
      
      
Message 16
| 					INDEX |  Back to Main INDEX |  
| 				PREVIOUS |  Skip to PREVIOUS Message |  
| 					NEXT |  Skip to NEXT Message |  
| 	LIST |  Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |  
| 		SENDER |  Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |  
  | 
      
      
      
      
      Don wrote-
      
      >Thinking about some homemade wooden skis now!  Just need that snow.
      
      When I lived in Oregon, I thought about skis to extend the year and to open 
      up some possibilities for flying off of areas that are beautiful in winter 
      but impossible to get to in a car or truck.  Skis came to mind.  A lot of my 
      "stuff" has been purchased at flea markets and pawn shops, such as my ski 
      boots, ski poles, skis, camp stove, tents, tools, and lots of other stuff.  
      What I saw in the pawn shop that intrigued me were snowboards that are 
      several years old, nobody wants to be caught dead on the slopes with them, 
      cost less than $50 apiece but seem like they would be perfect for skis for a 
      light plane.  I could be wrong, but it would seem like a pair of snowboards 
      (matched pair) with some fabricated mounts could work for a light plane.
      
      Never got around to experimenting with the idea, and Texas doesn't seem to 
      have much snow ;o)  Maybe over on the Monahans sand dunes-?
      
      Oscar Zuniga
      San Antonio, TX
      mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
      website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Fixing up the home? Live Search can help 
      
      
 
Other Matronics Email List Services
 
 
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
 
 
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
  
 |