Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:55 AM - Re: Cold Weather Building (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
2. 06:31 AM - Re: Cold Weather Building (Glenn W. Thomas)
3. 07:30 AM - Re: Cold Weather Building (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
4. 09:39 AM - Source for tailwheel spring (HelsperSew@aol.com)
5. 09:51 AM - Re: Source for tailwheel spring (Terry Hall)
6. 10:01 AM - Fuel tanks (Gene and Tammy)
7. 10:39 AM - Re: Source for tailwheel spring (Steve Ruse)
8. 10:43 AM - Re: Fuel tanks (gbowen@ptialaska.net)
9. 11:18 AM - Re: Source for tailwheel spring (Jeff Boatright)
10. 11:18 AM - Re: Source for tailwheel spring (Bill Church)
11. 11:26 AM - Re: Source for tailwheel spring (Catdesign)
12. 11:30 AM - Re: Fuel tanks (Gene and Tammy)
13. 12:54 PM - Tailwheel spring (HelsperSew@aol.com)
14. 12:58 PM - Source for tailwheel spring (Oscar Zuniga)
15. 01:48 PM - McMaster-Carr for just about anything (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
16. 02:36 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (gbowen@ptialaska.net)
17. 03:11 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (Jack T. Textor)
18. 04:03 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (Gene and Tammy)
19. 04:18 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (Rcaprd@aol.com)
20. 04:27 PM - Re: Source for tailwheel spring (Don Emch)
21. 04:28 PM - Re: Tailwheel spring (Rcaprd@aol.com)
22. 04:35 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (PIETLARS29@wmconnect.com)
23. 04:55 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (Don Emch)
24. 05:08 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (Gene and Tammy)
25. 05:19 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (Gene and Tammy)
26. 09:01 PM - Re: Fuel tanks (gcardinal)
27. 11:05 PM - A Corksickle Update (KMHeide)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cold Weather Building |
heres the one I have:
http://www.vogelzang.com/barrel_stoves.htm
If I leave the door open it gets going to fast. too much draft. it is a
leaky thing so even with the damper shut she draws real good. Sometimes on
real low wind days if I open the door to soon when its all shut down low it
will belch out a cloud of smoke. But my shop is quite drafty so its not a
big deal. Runing it with the door open is not real efficient and runs
through fuel way to fast.
I try to keep the fire in the back 3rd of the barrel and it keeps thing
runing nicely without to much belching.
michael
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cold Weather Building |
Do you line the bottom of the Vogelzang with fire brick or is there a
grate or something? That looks like a great way to heat up a building.
> <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net>
>
> heres the one I have:
>
> http://www.vogelzang.com/barrel_stoves.htm
>
> If I leave the door open it gets going to fast. too much draft. it is a
> leaky thing so even with the damper shut she draws real good. Sometimes on
> real low wind days if I open the door to soon when its all shut down low
> it
> will belch out a cloud of smoke. But my shop is quite drafty so its not a
> big deal. Runing it with the door open is not real efficient and runs
> through fuel way to fast.
>
> I try to keep the fire in the back 3rd of the barrel and it keeps thing
> runing nicely without to much belching.
>
> michael
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cold Weather Building |
Glen:
Just a bit of sand on the inside of the barrel, couple of 25 lb bags is
enough.
as you see I also have the cement paver pad under the stove.
at first I was concerned but with the sand in the bottom of the barrel the
underside remains completey cool to the touch. so there is no issue at all
there. I also placed he stove so that it is in the corner of the shop and
the stair well comes up around it so it tends do draw cool air in form the
garage bellow.
michael
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn W. Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
> Do you line the bottom of the Vogelzang with fire brick or is there a
> grate or something? That looks like a great way to heat up a building.
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Source for tailwheel spring |
Hi Pieters,
Can anyone help with a source for the large coil tail wheel spring? Thanko
mucho (that's Spanish for thank you very much).
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Source for tailwheel spring |
I'm building a Sky Scout with a tail skid. I bought a coil spring at a
local farm supply house that normally would go on a gate. I don't know
how it will hold up, but that is at least a source. Good luck, Terry
Hall, Ada, OK
----- Original Message -----
From: HelsperSew@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 11:29 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Source for tailwheel spring
Hi Pieters,
Can anyone help with a source for the large coil tail wheel spring?
Thanko mucho (that's Spanish for thank you very much).
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 6
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I'm checking into building a new fuel tank for my Piet. What grade of
aluminum should I use? Has anyone used any other metal for their tanks?
I could use extra weight up front so the weight is not a negative
factor. I'm changing from a metal prop to a wood one, a loss of about 12
lbs Plus when I pulled my old tank I found 16 lbs of lead the builder
had installed in front of the tank. I'm going to mount a battery and a
tool box on the firewall and that will help some.
Thanks
Gene
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Source for tailwheel spring |
The day I bought my GN-1, I was doing some taxi practice on a big
grass strip (my first time ever in a GN-1 or Piet). At some point, I
lost a tailwheel spring. I was in a hurry to get in the air, as I had
an 800+ mile trip ahead of me and already felt like I was behind
schedule. A couple of us started looking for the spring in the grass,
while some helpful guy who I didn't know went to the hardware store to
see what he could find. He found a two pack of the exact sprint that
was on my tailwheel...I was amazed. It took twenty minutes & $2. If
it had been a certified plane, it would have taken three weeks and
$150 to get that spring.
So I put a new spring on both sides, and zip tied the ends to secure
the springs and avoid that problem in the future. No problems since
then in ~200hrs of flying.
Anyway, I've seen these same springs several times in several
different hardware stores since then. The ones I've found come in
pairs in a small yellow/white plastic bag, and generally they have at
least 4-5 sizes to choose from. I was in Lowes a few days ago and saw
them and thought I should pick some up for spares.
Terry, I didn't know you were in Ada. I'm in Norman, OK, not too far
away. Chet Peek is building a Model A Piet in Norman, and there are
at least a couple others in the OKC area. We will have to get
together sometime, I would love to see your project. I'm going to go
to the Paul's Valley fly-in on Saturday if the weather allows, and the
following weekend (February 10th) I'm having a fly-in at the strip
where I keep my plane (a few miles south of Norman), you should come
out if you aren't busy. Chet Peek will probably be there.
Here is some more information if you are interested:
http://www.wotelectronics.com/flyin
Steve Ruse
Norman, OK
Quoting Terry Hall <adaairport@cableone.net>:
> I'm building a Sky Scout with a tail skid. I bought a coil spring
> at a local farm supply house that normally would go on a gate. I
> don't know how it will hold up, but that is at least a source. Good
> luck, Terry Hall, Ada, OK
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: HelsperSew@aol.com
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 11:29 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Source for tailwheel spring
>
>
> Hi Pieters,
>
> Can anyone help with a source for the large coil tail wheel
> spring? Thanko mucho (that's Spanish for thank you very much).
>
> Dan Helsper
> Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 8
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Gene,
Mucho simpler to build out of fiberglass and epoxy using the lost foam core
method I decribed about 1 year ago. Ask someone in the EAA chapter who's
building any composite plane for help. Carving a foam core to fit exactly
what you want isn't hard, laminating glass with epoxy over the outside,
putting in 1/4 Al blanks for the hard points needed for drains/vent/fills,
piece of cake. You simply cut the thing in half, take out the "lost" foam.
You got a custom tank, lighter than metal.
Gordon
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Gene and Tammy zharvey@bellsouth.net
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
I'm checking into building a new fuel tank for my Piet. What grade of
aluminum should I use? Has anyone used any other metal for their tanks? I
could use extra weight up front so the weight is not a negative factor. I'm
changing from a metal prop to a wood one, a loss of about 12 lbs Plus when
I pulled my old tank I found 16 lbs of lead the builder had installed in
front of the tank. I'm going to mount a battery and a tool box on the
firewall and that will help some.
Thanks
Gene
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Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Source for tailwheel spring |
Steve,
We went through exactly the same thing on our Piet. The springs are
for storm doors and come with their own chains. I like your zip-tie
addition. I'll try it.
Jeff
At 1:37 PM -0500 1/29/07, Steve Ruse wrote:
>
>... He found a two pack of the exact sprint that was on my
>tailwheel...I was amazed. It took twenty minutes & $2. If it had
>been a certified plane, it would have taken three weeks and $150 to
>get that spring.
>
>So I put a new spring on both sides, and zip tied the ends to secure
>the springs and avoid that problem in the future. No problems since
>then in ~200hrs of flying.
>
>Anyway, I've seen these same springs several times in several
>different hardware stores since then. The ones I've found come in
>pairs in a small yellow/white plastic bag, and generally they have
>at least 4-5 sizes to choose from. I was in Lowes a few days ago
>and saw them and thought I should pick some up for spares.
...
--
_____________________________________________________________
Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
Associate Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA
Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis
mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
Message 10
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| Subject: | Source for tailwheel spring |
Dan,
Just did a search of the Matronics List and found the following:
http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=616679?KEYS=
t
ail_spring?LISTNAME=Pietenpol?HITNUMBER=23?SERIAL=10362125687?SHOWB
UTTON
S=YES
<http://www.matronics.com/searching/getmsg_script.cgi?INDEX=616679?KEYS
tail_spring?LISTNAME=Pietenpol?HITNUMBER=23?SERIAL=10362125687?SHOW
BUTTO
NS=YES>
here's the relevant info, cut and pasted from the above posting (incase
the link doesn't work for you):
"John Deere sells a spring that's a perfect match for the specs; its
part number is T 143444, and it costs about $9.00. Its outer dia. is
1.5in.; full length( no load ) is 6.73"
Bill C
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Source for tailwheel spring |
http://www.mcmaster.com/
I bought two springs, Part Number: 96485K141 and 96485K135.
I ended up using the 96485K141 because spring 96485K135 seemed to easy to compress.
Look at their webpage to get the information on each spring.
Chris Tracy
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91364#91364
Message 12
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Thanks for the reply Gordon.
Fiberglass was considered as I've built and repaired fiberglass boats for a
fair number of years. I discarded the idea for a number of reasons. I
actually need more weight not less. I guess the biggest reason is the
alcohol that is finding its way into almost all fuel. A real killer on
fiberglass tanks. If you use only av gas it shouldn't be a problem for now,
but I end up using a lot of auto gas.
Thank you
Gene in Tennessee (down with the flu)
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Tailwheel spring |
Thanks Chris,
I just ordered the 96485K141. I had an order ready for Mcmaster Carr
anyway today, so I just added it on.
I love that place. They have everything under the sun, and you can order 1
bolt or nut if you need it. (and
have it the next morning). A lot of my misc. parts in my airplane come
from there. Also I have been looking at your posted photos of your tailwheel
assembly. I got some good ideas from you. Mine will be a skid plate, with
the option of attaching (with pins) a removable tailwheel. At this point it
will be a non-steerable tailwheel. We shall see how it goes. Hopefully with
good brakes, I won't need the steerable model.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Source for tailwheel spring |
I think different folks are talking about different springs. Unless I'm
mistaken, the original request was for a source for the spring that is used
in the Pietenpol tail skid design. It's a single large coil in the vertical
position. The other responders seem to be talking about steerable tailwheel
springs, aka storm door springs, inline with the tailwheel steering cables.
Different critters.
I believe someone said they got their large coil spring from a farm tractor
seat.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
>From predictions to trailers, check out the MSN Entertainment Guide to the
Academy Awards
http://movies.msn.com/movies/oscars2007/?icid=ncoscartagline1
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| Subject: | McMaster-Carr for just about anything |
Dan from Poplar Grove is right, McMaster-Carr is amazing--we use them
for things we need at work almost every other week and I don't
know how they do it but we generally order one day and have the goods
the next day. http://www.mcmaster.com/
I needed some high-strength metric bolts for a brake job I was doing on
my stepson's car last fall and it had to be a super fine metric
thread. Nobody in town carried anything of the sort but McMaster-Carr
had them and I had them the next day. Amazing.
Come to find out that unlike SAE threads like NC and NF coarse and fine,
metric bolts have three or four different thread spacing's and a
grade 8 in SAE is not the same as a grade 8 in metric. Learned quite a
bit that day.
Mike C.
Message 16
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Gene,
Fiberglass made using polyester resin is a problem with all sorts of
solvents, including normal fuel. But fiberglass tanks made with epoxy have
been in service with the canard-pusher guys since Rutan first flew into Osh
in the early 70's. If they're done right, they don't leak. But if weight
is the consideration, make them out of galvanized steel like my Piete. If
fixed my weight problem (I'm 275lbs) with a 0-235 engine, chevy starter,
car battery under legs of passenger seat and moved the engine mount forward
about 4". With Aeronca wings get about 750'/min. climb, with full 22 gal
fuel, my fat carcass, and indicates 105 mph at 3000' with full 2650 rpm
power. But love to cruise at 2000 rpm at 75mph indicated, hang the elbow
out the side like driving a convertable, fuel burn is about 6 gal/hr Fresh
jugs on Lyco gets about 108 hp.
Gordon
Original Message:
-----------------
From: Gene and Tammy zharvey@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
<zharvey@bellsouth.net>
Thanks for the reply Gordon.
Fiberglass was considered as I've built and repaired fiberglass boats for a
fair number of years. I discarded the idea for a number of reasons. I
actually need more weight not less. I guess the biggest reason is the
alcohol that is finding its way into almost all fuel. A real killer on
fiberglass tanks. If you use only av gas it shouldn't be a problem for
now,
but I end up using a lot of auto gas.
Thank you
Gene in Tennessee (down with the flu)
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Gordon,
At 105 indicated, do you have a concern with control fluter?
Jack
www.textors.com
Message 18
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Gordon,
Very interested in your galvanized steel tank. What thickness did you use?
How hard was it to work with? I plan on forming my own and then having it
welded by someone that knows what their doing. Sounds like you get great
performance out of your plane.
I'm in the middle of completely going thru my Piet and doing a major on the
A-65. I'm not completely happy with the current fuel tank and using a
heavier metel would allow me to do away with the lead.
As far as fiberglass using polyester resin or epoxy I encourage anyone
considering building a fuel tank from fiberglass to check around and do a
little investigating pior to building. Boat US is a good source of
information on fiberglass fuel tanks as well as many of the homebuilt sites
(Avid, Kit Fox ect) that use fiberglass tanks. Fuel with alcohol is a big
problem for fiberglass tanks everyone should be awear of..
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 4:35 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
> <gbowen@ptialaska.net>
>
> Gene,
> Fiberglass made using polyester resin is a problem with all sorts of
> solvents, including normal fuel. But fiberglass tanks made with epoxy
> have
> been in service with the canard-pusher guys since Rutan first flew into
> Osh
> in the early 70's. If they're done right, they don't leak. But if weight
> is the consideration, make them out of galvanized steel like my Piete. If
> fixed my weight problem (I'm 275lbs) with a 0-235 engine, chevy starter,
> car battery under legs of passenger seat and moved the engine mount
> forward
> about 4". With Aeronca wings get about 750'/min. climb, with full 22 gal
> fuel, my fat carcass, and indicates 105 mph at 3000' with full 2650 rpm
> power. But love to cruise at 2000 rpm at 75mph indicated, hang the elbow
> out the side like driving a convertable, fuel burn is about 6 gal/hr
> Fresh
> jugs on Lyco gets about 108 hp.
> Gordon
>
> Original Message:
> -----------------
> From: Gene and Tammy zharvey@bellsouth.net
> Date: Mon, 29 Jan 2007 13:30:11 -0600
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
>
>
> <zharvey@bellsouth.net>
>
> Thanks for the reply Gordon.
> Fiberglass was considered as I've built and repaired fiberglass boats for
> a
> fair number of years. I discarded the idea for a number of reasons. I
> actually need more weight not less. I guess the biggest reason is the
> alcohol that is finding its way into almost all fuel. A real killer on
> fiberglass tanks. If you use only av gas it shouldn't be a problem for
> now,
> but I end up using a lot of auto gas.
> Thank you
> Gene in Tennessee (down with the flu)
>
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Message 19
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In a message dated 1/29/2007 1:32:37 PM Central Standard Time,
zharvey@bellsouth.net writes:
Thanks for the reply Gordon.
Fiberglass was considered as I've built and repaired fiberglass boats for a
fair number of years. I discarded the idea for a number of reasons. I
actually need more weight not less. I guess the biggest reason is the
alcohol that is finding its way into almost all fuel. A real killer on
fiberglass tanks. If you use only av gas it shouldn't be a problem for now,
but I end up using a lot of auto gas.
Thank you
Gene in Tennessee (down with the flu)
Gene,
I built both my fuel tanks with fiberglass, however, I mistakenly used
polyester resin (auto body stuff). Instead of the lost foam method, I built
female moulds, and did the 4 ply layups inside the moulds. I have a lot of
pictures and explainations about this process on my web site:
http://nx770cg.com/FuelSystem.html
West Systems Epoxy is the type of resin you should use in a fuel tank, as it
is impervious to fuels, oil, and solvents. I am VERY careful about not having
alcohol in my fuel, and I use MoGas about half the time. There is a lot of
corn out here in Kansas, and more and more of it is being used in the fuel.
Another thing I would like to mention, is that a Nose Heavy Pietenpol is
about as rare as a light weight Pietenpol driver. Have you ever done a Weight
& Balance ? And then do it all over again, with a helper, just to confirm
the first time ?
Chuck G.
NX770CG
(hope you get to feeling better...flying weather ain't far off !! )
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Source for tailwheel spring |
Hey guys,
Just as another source. I got mine from the front forks of a motorcycle. At
the time I didn't realize how easy it was to order from McMaster-Carr. I went
to a local junkyard and they had a few motorcycles with bent front forks. They
told me if they were bent to have at it and do what I wanted to them. The
forks are a hydraulic cylinder with a spring inside. I took the cap off of both
bent tubes from one bike and ended up with 2 springs almost 18" long. They
charged me a whopping $2.00 for both. I cut it down and now have a few spares.
It has been doing really well back there since I started flying.
If you really want to know there is probably a story behind just about every
part on my plane. And I'm sure all the other Piets are the same!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91443#91443
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Tailwheel spring |
In a message dated 1/29/2007 2:56:04 PM Central Standard Time,
HelsperSew@aol.com writes:
Mine will be a skid plate, with the option of attaching (with pins) a
removable tailwheel. At this point it will be a non-steerable tailwheel. We shall
see how it goes. Hopefully with good brakes, I won't need the steerable model.
Dan,
I tried that set up, and in '03 I flew 'er from Wichita to Brodhead /
Oshkosh.
Here is a re-print of one of the write ups I did about that flight:
Subj: Pietenpol-List: Flying Stories - Tail skids & hard surface
From: Rcaprd@aol.com
I just gotta share some of my flying stories with y'all (most of them are
true), as well as some of the lessons I've learned.
Flying a 'Low & Slow' airplane cross country is absolutely the best way
to see this beautiful country we live in, and meet so many people...it's a real
attention getter at the FBO's. Don't tell me this ain't no cross country
airplane, cause I don't wanna hear about it. On the return trip, someone asked
"Well, how many hours did it take to get there ?" I replied "When you fly a
Pietenpol on a cross country, you don't measure time in hours, you measure it
in days !!" After a good heart felt laugh, they gathered themselves back
together and asked "OK, well how many days did it take you to get there ?" I
replied with a grin "Three !!"
Tail Skids, and hard surface runways:
I have always flown off the grass runways, no brakes, and the tail skid
performs very well on the grass. Simplicity at it's finest, and much less weight
back at the tail. Stick forward, add power, and just rudder it around...no
worries. I got the brakes operational just a week before Brodhead, but didn't
have time to get a tail wheel done. Well, when ya try to land a tail skid on a
hard surface runway, ya really gotta spit your gum out, and pay attention !!
My first one, was on the second leg of my trip. I did four hard surface
landings during my adventure to Brodhead / Oshkosh adventure, and each time I
almost lost it on roll out - maybe 20 or 15 mph down to zero mph. I learned that
any slight breeze will push the tail around, and with the engine at idle - no
prop wash, she just doesn't pay any attention to where the rudder is, and the
tail just goes wherever the wind tells it to. When I left, I thought I could
just use a touch of brake in this situation, and everything would be cool...Big
Mistake...BIG BIG MISTAKE !! Example: When she's headed to the right side
of the edge of the runway, I just lightly stabbed the left brake to keep it on
course down the runway. Well, this got 'er pointed back on course, but it
also brought the tail up abruptly, and then it did a double bounce back down.
Adding power takes a second or two, for the prop wash to reach the rudder. On
my second hard surface landing, I just let 'er go to the grass off the side of
the runway...I think she was just letting me know she likes it there much
more !! Each time, I had visions of either nosing over, or doing a ground loop.
So...THAT'S why I was the only one there at Brodhead with a tail skid !!
When I landed at Oshkosh in front of all those people, and as I was doing this
dance down the runway, ATC was saying to me "Red high wing, exit runway...as
soon as you can..."
So... the morale of this story, is 'Entertainment is as close as my next
landing'.
Or...'Tail skids, and hard surface runways, just don't mix well'.
Chuck Gantzer
NX770CG
Wichita, KS
Message 22
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Hi,
Made my tank out of 26 ga. galvanized iron; I think that 28 ga would do OK.
We soldered the seams, not welded; make flanges at joints and rivet the
pieces for mechanical joining then solder the seams. You need a large soldering
iron, preferably using a gas burner to heat it.
Lou Larsen
Message 23
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Mine is .050" 5052 Al. It is very soft and workable. I formed it all up and used
a filler neck and cap from Aircraft Spruce. I clamped it together and took
it to a racecar builder who welds aluminum tanks and 4130 steel car frames.
The guy is from Gibsonburg, OH (near Toledo) and does really great work. He
has done several other airplane tanks and 4130 tubing engine mounts. If anyone
is interested I could get the info.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=91449#91449
Message 24
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Chuck,
No I haven't heard of a nose heavy Piet. That's the reason I'm looking
for a heavy fuel tank. Need the weight up front. When I pulled the
tank I found the builder had installed 16 lbs of lead to help put more
weight forward Plus I'm taking off the metal prop and installing a wood
prop (about a 12 lb loss). Guess I should have mentioned that my fuel
tank sets right behind the firewall.
The plane has been flying hands off but you had better believe I will be
doing a new W & B after my changes. So far I'm not a builder but I
would call my self a "redoer". I've rebuilt 5 different airplanes and
I've been pleased with the results. I can't afford to build and fly at
the same time and I hate to give up flying for very long. Rebuilding is
much quicker and I still get some of the satisfaction of building, plus
it's a great way to get to know your airplane. The plane should be down
only about 2 to 3 months, mainly because of the engine major overhaul.
I'll be flying by spring.
I really appreciate all the good info and advice from this site.
Gene in Tennessee
----- Original Message -----
From: Rcaprd@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 6:17 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
In a message dated 1/29/2007 1:32:37 PM Central Standard Time,
zharvey@bellsouth.net writes:
Thanks for the reply Gordon.
Fiberglass was considered as I've built and repaired fiberglass
boats for a
fair number of years. I discarded the idea for a number of reasons.
I
actually need more weight not less. I guess the biggest reason is
the
alcohol that is finding its way into almost all fuel. A real killer
on
fiberglass tanks. If you use only av gas it shouldn't be a problem
for now,
but I end up using a lot of auto gas.
Thank you
Gene in Tennessee (down with the flu)
Gene,
I built both my fuel tanks with fiberglass, however, I mistakenly
used polyester resin (auto body stuff). Instead of the lost foam
method, I built female moulds, and did the 4 ply layups inside the
moulds. I have a lot of pictures and explainations about this process
on my web site: http://nx770cg.com/FuelSystem.html
West Systems Epoxy is the type of resin you should use in a fuel tank,
as it is impervious to fuels, oil, and solvents. I am VERY careful
about not having alcohol in my fuel, and I use MoGas about half the
time. There is a lot of corn out here in Kansas, and more and more of
it is being used in the fuel.
Another thing I would like to mention, is that a Nose Heavy
Pietenpol is about as rare as a light weight Pietenpol driver. Have you
ever done a Weight & Balance ? And then do it all over again, with a
helper, just to confirm the first time ?
Chuck G.
NX770CG
(hope you get to feeling better...flying weather ain't far off !! )
Message 25
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Lou,
Good info. How long (flight hours) have you had your tank and how has
it held up?
Thank you
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: PIETLARS29@wmconnect.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, January 29, 2007 6:34 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Fuel tanks
Hi,
Made my tank out of 26 ga. galvanized iron; I think that 28 ga would
do OK.
We soldered the seams, not welded; make flanges at joints and rivet
the pieces for mechanical joining then solder the seams. You need a
large soldering iron, preferably using a gas burner to heat it.
Lou Larsen
Message 26
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Tried this method on NX18235 and we were not happy. The tank was
beautifully constructed and leak checked on the bench.
It held fine for the first hour of flight time and then the tell-tale
blue streaks of 100LL started showing up.
After about 50 hours of flight time the galvanized, riveted and soldered
tank was leaking at the rate of about 1 gallon per hour.
Replaced it with a TIG welded aluminum tank. No more leaks and no more
worries.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
Hi,
Made my tank out of 26 ga. galvanized iron; I think that 28 ga would
do OK.
We soldered the seams, not welded; make flanges at joints and rivet
the pieces for mechanical joining then solder the seams. You need a
large soldering iron, preferably using a gas burner to heat it.
Lou Larsen
Message 27
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| Subject: | A Corksickle Update |
Today we finished securing the airplane and wings in place. Everything is tucked
underneath with the tail section dissembled and stored in the back of the truck.
As Corky filled up with gas, I made sure the trailer tires were properly inflated.
Finally with map in one hand and the other waving goodbye, I heard him exclaim....Merry
Christmas to all..... and to yous Yankees with 15 below kiss my cold
southern @*#%+ ass!
Tee-hee-hee
Enjoy the trip corky and my god bless you always!
Members...enjoy the photos.
Ken H.
Fargo, ND
---------------------------------
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with theYahoo! Search weather shortcut.
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