Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:00 AM - Re: fuse step ()
2. 04:04 AM - Re: Wing Struts (Pietsrneat@aol.com)
3. 04:07 AM - Re: model A carb heat ()
4. 04:09 AM - Re: A.S.S. Does it again (Pietsrneat@aol.com)
5. 04:13 AM - Re: fuse step (Pietsrneat@aol.com)
6. 04:25 AM - Re: fuse step ()
7. 04:45 AM - Continental A65 Parts (Phillips, Jack)
8. 05:17 AM - Re: Continental A65 Parts (Ben Charvet)
9. 05:38 AM - tappet bodies/cam follower possible source: Dallas, Texas (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
10. 07:03 AM - Re: model A carb heat (HelsperSew@aol.com)
11. 07:24 AM - Re: fuse step (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
12. 07:36 AM - Re: fuse step (Phillips, Jack)
13. 07:49 AM - Southwest Regional Fly-In at Hondo, TX (Oscar Zuniga)
14. 08:09 AM - Re: fuse step ()
15. 09:28 AM - Re: fuse step (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
16. 09:44 AM - Re: fuse step (MICHAEL SILVIUS)
17. 11:58 AM - registration (skellytownflyer)
18. 12:05 PM - Re: Continental A65 Parts (Gene & Tammy)
19. 01:16 PM - Re: registration (walt evans)
20. 03:09 PM - Re: fuse step (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
21. 03:29 PM - Re: fuse step (gcardinal)
22. 04:31 PM - Re: registration (Gene & Tammy)
23. 05:30 PM - Re: Propeller duplicator Scimitar Prop.. Off List (Gary Gower)
24. 05:39 PM - Re: registration (skellytownflyer)
25. 08:20 PM - Building a Scimitar Prop (Rcaprd@aol.com)
Message 1
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I like the idea of the self closing flap and I did think of doing that but
the guys I was working with said that it wouldn't make much difference to a
draggy plane like this so I opted out but that placement sounds a might high
for my little legs to reach up to.It does sound like a better place for
strength though since in my case I am putting the weight on the longerone
all the time.
>From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
>To: "pietenpolgroup" <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: fuse step
>Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 21:06:12 -0500
>
>Hi guys,
>
>I built a step in my fuse that has a self-closing, spring loaded
>faceplate/flap in the fuse side. I placed the entire thing so that when I
>place my foot inside, I am stepping on the edge of the seat. It seems to
>work very well so far.
>
>Douwe
Message 2
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In a message dated 3/6/2007 9:42:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
hanover@centramedia.net writes:
I have finally gotten home with the new to me project DJ put so much time
and effort into.and hopefully in the near future can start making progress on
it.But I had concerns about using the Aluminum wing struts before Talking to
Oscar Zuniga,and he assured me that both he and others are flying them and
doing fine(as in staying alive I assume) but I did think of an alternate source
for streamlined material.I haven't measurd my old Tri-pacer yet to see if
they are long enough without splicing,but there are many folks flying the old
Ragwing Pipers that have gone to the Univair sealed struts to do away with the
repetitive testing requirement.And they have their old struts laying around
and would sell them hopefully at a reasonable cost.So if anyone thinks they
are interested in getting some I have a friend that is on the Shortwing Piper
club sit and can forward some names.Raymond
Raymond,
I'm looking for struts right now and may be interested.
Ron
do not archive
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Message 3
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| Subject: | model A carb heat |
The proof of operation will be in actual flight since when we fly we go
through different atmospheres which cause carb icing.Sitting on the ground
doesn't offer the same conditions.Let us know how you make out in flight
especially on a humid day.Sounds like a great system though.I have always
been scared of contamination from the exhaust pipe.One never knows when a
small hole may appear in the bugger and cause some greef.I especially don't
like this when taking cabin heat off for obvious reasons.
>From: "Douwe Blumberg" <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
>To: "pietenpolgroup" <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Pietenpol-List: model A carb heat
>Date: Tue, 6 Mar 2007 21:23:35 -0500
>
>Hi Dan,
>
>I honestly don't know why or even IF this engine NEEDS more carb heat for
>some reason than any other engine. I do know that the stock carb is very
>prone to icing up. Maybe it's the placement of the carb, or venturi
>design, but it will ice up fairly easily. When I interviewed actual Model
>A flyers before I decided to go that route, I talked to a fair number who
>had experienced icing.
>
>As to HP loss, I would have to image it would be similar to pulling carb
>heat on a certified aircraft engine, probably a around 50 rpm drop, and
>you're right, you don't really have it to spare!
>
>The usual carb heat fix on a model A works fine. I've seen guys wrap
>springs around the front pipe inside the can to slow and heat the air.
>Stainless scrubbees work well too, just be sure they can't get sucked in.
>
>I am using a weber carb on mine, and it'll ice up too. I am using what
>seems to be a very slick carb heat system I got from culver prop/valley
>engineering. It sounds odd but it has worked for their engines and is
>working great on my A which is currently on a test stand. It consists of a
>small tube running from the base of an exhaust pipe (I chose my leanest
>cylinder) to a hole tapped in the bottom of the carb. The pipe enters the
>carb base and is aimed into the primary venturi. The hot gas heats the
>venturi and plenum, NOT the intake air so ice won't form on the metal
>plenum or venturi because it is being warmed, but the mixture isn't getting
>heated air. I was worried about contamination from the exhaust gasses, but
>was assured it didn't occur, which has proved to be the case with mine. No
>ice, and no rpm drop and no moving parts. So far, so good.
>
>Don't see why it wouldn't work on a stock A carb, though like I said, the
>usual heat box works fine. It also wouldn't be a big deal to fabricate an
>on off heat box, though I think you'd find you'd need it on much of the
>time, and since it warms the air, it'll rob you of some rpm.
>
>Douwe
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: A.S.S. Does it again |
In a message dated 3/6/2007 10:22:53 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
catdesigns@comcast.net writes:
Hey Scott, what do you need? I'm going over to Sacramento Skyranch at lunch
tomorrow to buy bolts for my landing gear. I can pick you up something and
send it to you. This way you wont have to pay their minimum shipping charge.
I know everyone says they will cost more but I like the fact that I can buy
the right bolts the first time.
Customer service, along with getting exactly what you want, are well worth
the extra few dollars. That's why I shop at Mom & Pop stores whenever I can. I
know I'm gonna take a little bit of a hit in the wallet, but walkin' out a
happy (Air) camper is well worth it.
do not archive
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Message 5
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In a message dated 3/7/2007 7:02:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
harvey.rule@sympatico.ca writes:
I like the idea of the self closing flap and I did think of doing that but
the guys I was working with said that it wouldn't make much difference to a
draggy plane like this so I opted out but that placement sounds a might high
for my little legs to reach up to.It does sound like a better place for
strength though since in my case I am putting the weight on the longerone
all the time.
I put that type of flap on a miniMAX. Same deal...draggy and slow ship. It
was more a matter of aesthetics. Looks a little better than a hole in the side
of the aircraft.
Ron
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Message 6
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I kind of like the way mine looks though .It reminds me of the old WW1
fighters.
do not archive
>From: Pietsrneat@aol.com
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuse step
>Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2007 07:13:38 EST
>
>
>In a message dated 3/7/2007 7:02:21 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>harvey.rule@sympatico.ca writes:
>
>
>I like the idea of the self closing flap and I did think of doing that but
>the guys I was working with said that it wouldn't make much difference to
>a
>draggy plane like this so I opted out but that placement sounds a might
>high
>for my little legs to reach up to.It does sound like a better place for
>strength though since in my case I am putting the weight on the longerone
>all the time.
>
>
>I put that type of flap on a miniMAX. Same deal...draggy and slow ship. It
>was more a matter of aesthetics. Looks a little better than a hole in the
>side
>of the aircraft.
>Ron
><BR><BR><BR>**************************************<BR> AOL now offers free
>email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at
>http://www.aol.com.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Continental A65 Parts |
Hi Pieters,
I need some help for a friend at my home airport. He has a J-3 Cub with
an A65 Continental and he has managed to damage one of the cam
followers. He needs to replace it but hasn't been able to find a single
cam follower without the accompanying hydraulic lifter assembly, and the
total assembly sells for $240. Does anyone out there have a cam
follower they would be willing to sell? Or any clues as to where he can
go to find one?
Thanks,
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Continental A65 Parts |
He might want to try Fresno Airparts. I have an old scanned copy of
their ad that runs monthly in the front of Trade-a-plane that lists a
cam follower part #21608 for $67.50. Of course if someone has a used one
laying around that would be cheaper. Fresno airparts phone # is 559-237-4863
Ben Charvet
Phillips, Jack wrote:
> Hi Pieters,
>
> I need some help for a friend at my home airport. He has a J-3 Cub
> with an A65 Continental and he has managed to damage one of the cam
> followers. He needs to replace it but hasnt been able to find a
> single cam follower without the accompanying hydraulic lifter
> assembly, and the total assembly sells for $240. Does anyone out there
> have a cam follower they would be willing to sell? Or any clues as to
> where he can go to find one?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jack Phillips
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | tappet bodies/cam follower possible source: Dallas, Texas |
Jack,
I had excellent service from this place on my A-65 overhaul part
service. I would have your friend give them a call and ask to talk to
one of the
guys in the shop----they have (or used to) every Continental part on the
books and most likely could give him a price and ship something out
quickly. http://www.aea-precision.com/
Aircraft Engine and Accessory Company, Inc.
2275 Crown Road Dallas, TX 75229-2007
Tel: 972.243.7404 | 800.808.5908 | Fax: 972.243.3806
FAA Repair Station: UI1R533K
<http://www.aea-precision.com/pdf/FAA_Ops_Specs.pdf> EASA
Certification: 145.5697
<http://www.aea-precision.com/pdf/EASA_certificate.pdf>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: model A carb heat |
Douwe,
Why did you decide to go with the weber carb? And what model are you using?
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL
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Message 11
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I'd think a telescoping tube with an internal bunge to keep it retracted
would be quite easy to execute.
Pull on it and set your foot on it, as soon as you step off it retracts.
I believe these are photos I pilfered of DJ's page for my neat ideas folder.
if made a bit loger it might stand up better to abuse.
michael silvius, scarborough, maine
Message 12
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Pretty cool, Michael. One observation: How do you retract it once you
are sitting in the cockpit? Can you reach it while sitting in the seat?
If so, then I guess it also will not be a problem to extend it before
trying to get out of the cockpit.
I've got a fixed step on mine, and really like it. I can't easily see
it when leaving the cockpit but just swing my leg down and feel for it
with my foot.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MICHAEL
SILVIUS
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuse step
I'd think a telescoping tube with an internal bunge to keep it retracted
would be quite easy to execute.
Pull on it and set your foot on it, as soon as you step off it retracts.
I believe these are photos I pilfered of DJ's page for my neat ideas
folder.
if made a bit loger it might stand up better to abuse.
michael silvius, scarborough, maine
_________________________________________________
Message 13
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| Subject: | Southwest Regional Fly-In at Hondo, TX |
You bet I will have 41CC at SWRFI this year. The last couple of years I
have worked as a volunteer with EAA 35 driving trams between the parking
areas and flight line and have driven back and forth from home. I vowed to
fly in this year and I'll once again be driving a tram on Saturday of the
fly-in. Complete details about SWRFI are on the web at
http://www.swrfi.org/
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 14
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I like the look of that too.Maybe I'll put something like that at the front
seat for ease of access when I want to work around that area.I'm always
grabbing a chair and trying to move between the cables and fusy and I get
hung up on stuff all the time.The chair is always in the way even though it
gives me the height I need and then theres the problem of trying to get out,
once in.This appears to be a great solution to this problem.It might even be
a good idea to put one on the other side of the back seat so when I'm being
chased by the Hun and I have to get in quick,I can do it from either side
eh!Thanks for these pics.
>From: "MICHAEL SILVIUS" <M.Silvius@worldnet.att.net>
>To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuse step
>Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2007 10:22:11 -0500
>
>I'd think a telescoping tube with an internal bunge to keep it retracted
>would be quite easy to execute.
>Pull on it and set your foot on it, as soon as you step off it retracts.
>
>I believe these are photos I pilfered of DJ's page for my neat ideas
>folder.
>
>if made a bit loger it might stand up better to abuse.
>
>michael silvius, scarborough, maine
><< step-extended.jpg >>
><< step-1.jpg >>
><< step-2.jpg >>
Message 15
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----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com>
> How do you retract it once you
> are sitting in the cockpit?
I am thinking a bungee or spring so that it is positively loaded for
retraction as soon as you remove your weight from it, but I am only passing
on the idea from other sources as I am not the one that came up with it. I
leave the details to be worked out by the smart ones of this group. ;-) On
the other hand if it were placed in the cockpit area, the inner workings
could be accessed from the seated position to extend or retract as needed. I
think I would definetily make the fixed part longer to provide more support.
michael silvius
Message 16
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Cant remember if this picture had been posted yet but here is how G-ARDA has
it in the UK.
someone could likey figure a spring loaded door for it hinged on the inner
edge of the longeron, or the top of the cut out so that you dont stand on
said door, but I dont know how much diference it realy would make dragwise
to have it open. Just to keep the cool breze out might be worth the trouble.
michael
Message 17
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I am ready to send off for an N-number so as to not be too far behind the power
curve whn the time comes.And I called the EAA to request a Certification kit
like my DAR suggested,they asked me whether I wanted to go Light Sport or conventional
Ex/AB.I didn't know they would have a different packet-does anybody know
of a good reason to not go LSA ? I cannot see it exceeding any of the limitations
unless it was cruise speed. :
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99327#99327
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Continental A65 Parts |
Continental A65 PartsHi Jack,
Rick Romans Inc. at 918-835-1311 should be able to fix him up.
Gene
PS Haven't seen a report on your new prop yet. I ordered a 74X38 from
Ed Struba. Should be getting it next week but of course won't be able
to try it until I finish with my engine.
----- Original Message -----
From: Phillips, Jack
To: Pietenpol-List
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 6:44 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental A65 Parts
Hi Pieters,
I need some help for a friend at my home airport. He has a J-3 Cub
with an A65 Continental and he has managed to damage one of the cam
followers. He needs to replace it but hasn't been able to find a single
cam follower without the accompanying hydraulic lifter assembly, and the
total assembly sells for $240. Does anyone out there have a cam
follower they would be willing to sell? Or any clues as to where he can
go to find one?
Thanks,
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary, or otherwise private information. If you have
received it in error, please notify the sender immediately and delete
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- N
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: registration |
I would go with the experimental for sure.
All the DAR's and FAA guys are familiar with that.
Up here guys are having a hard time finding someone to inspect and licence a
Light Sport aircraft.
Inspection should be the same. and the Experimental will probably be better
in the resale.
Doesn't matter what type of flying license you personally have , if any.
Even a person that never flew can build and licence a homebuilt.
walt evans
NX140DL
"Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: "skellytownflyer" <hanover@centramedia.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 2:56 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: registration
> <hanover@centramedia.net>
>
> I am ready to send off for an N-number so as to not be too far behind the
> power curve whn the time comes.And I called the EAA to request a
> Certification kit like my DAR suggested,they asked me whether I wanted to
> go Light Sport or conventional Ex/AB.I didn't know they would have a
> different packet-does anybody know of a good reason to not go LSA ? I
> cannot see it exceeding any of the limitations unless it was cruise speed.
> :
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99327#99327
>
>
>
Message 20
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Gentlemen,
I do like the idea of this step with retraction. Maybe a slight rotation and
it can lock in place. Then rotate it back the other way and it retracts back inside....
Ken
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com> wrote:
Pretty cool, Michael. One observation: How do you retract it once you
are sitting in the cockpit? Can you reach it while sitting in the seat?
If so, then I guess it also will not be a problem to extend it before
trying to get out of the cockpit.
I've got a fixed step on mine, and really like it. I can't easily see
it when leaving the cockpit but just swing my leg down and feel for it
with my foot.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MICHAEL
SILVIUS
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 10:22 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: fuse step
I'd think a telescoping tube with an internal bunge to keep it retracted
would be quite easy to execute.
Pull on it and set your foot on it, as soon as you step off it retracts.
I believe these are photos I pilfered of DJ's page for my neat ideas
folder.
if made a bit loger it might stand up better to abuse.
michael silvius, scarborough, maine
_________________________________________________
---------------------------------
TV dinner still cooling?
Check out "Tonight's Picks" on Yahoo! TV.
Message 21
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I agree with Jack on the fixed step. Forget the retractable apparatus,
build it fixed to keep it simple.
Drag from an exposed step is a non-issue. NX18235 has a fixed step and
it cruises at 81 mph.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 5:08 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: fuse step
Gentlemen,
I do like the idea of this step with retraction. Maybe a slight
rotation and it can lock in place. Then rotate it back the other way and
it retracts back inside....
Ken
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinal.com> wrote:
Pretty cool, Michael. One observation: How do you retract it once
you
are sitting in the cockpit? Can you reach it while sitting in the
seat?
If so, then I guess it also will not be a problem to extend it
before
trying to get out of the cockpit.
I've got a fixed step on mine, and really like it. I can't easily
see
it when leaving the cockpit but just swing my leg down and feel for
it
with my foot.
Jack
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
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Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: registration |
Walt, Your dead on with your advice. I think he would really regret going
the LSA route.
Just my 2 cents worth.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "walt evans" <waltdak@verizon.net>
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: registration
>
> I would go with the experimental for sure.
> All the DAR's and FAA guys are familiar with that.
> Up here guys are having a hard time finding someone to inspect and licence
> a Light Sport aircraft.
> Inspection should be the same. and the Experimental will probably be
> better in the resale.
> Doesn't matter what type of flying license you personally have , if any.
> Even a person that never flew can build and licence a homebuilt.
> walt evans
> NX140DL
>
> "Put your wealth in knowledge, and no one can ever take it from you"
> Ben Franklin
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "skellytownflyer" <hanover@centramedia.net>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2007 2:56 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: registration
>
> >>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Propeller duplicator Scimitar Prop.. Off List |
Hello Chuck,
I will love to learn carve a scimitar prop also, some day, I will appreciate any
lead for info on carving one... Dificult to find this type of info...
Please post as you learn... I carved almost all my props, only bought one for
one ultralight years ago (IVO) not a great prop...
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Rcaprd@aol.com wrote: In a message dated 2/12/2007 8:38:03 PM Central Standard
Time, EmchAir@aol.com writes:
I know there are some guys on here, Chuck G. and Greg C. and there may be more,
that have carved their own props. Where did you find your prop duplicator plans?
Don,
If you can build a Pietenpol, you can Certainly build a prop.
I didn't use a duplicator. I built two props for the Model A, and one for
the Continental A65. I've re-worked the prop for the A65 two times, to get a
little more RPM, and now have about 300 hours on that one. I used the book by
Eric Clutton, 'Propeller Making for the Amateur' - available through the EAA.
I still plan on building a Scimitar Prop for the Piet, using most of his methods.
I corresponded with him quite a bit (via e-mail) on the Scimitar, and
I find it a very interesting design.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
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Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: registration |
OK I see what you mean as far as a sale,but with either one-the builder can do
his own annual if he has the certificate plus from what I have read-with light
Sport the new owner can take a class-( I think 10 hours) that the EAA I beleive
puts on and then can do the inspections on his own LSA.I know there have been
several held.I thought about attending one,but because my Challenger is registered
EX/AB it would'nt work for me.Anyway that is my understanding.I have a
call in to the EAA concerning that part to be sure.the guy I needed to talk to
was out today but I'll try again tomorrow.My concerns were more to what restrictions
would limit use with a LSA.I will for sure post what I find out from
them.I expect truthfully either way it might be difficult to get a lot of A&P's
to put their name on an annual if they didn't know the builder well due to liability.I
fly with a private single engine ticket but will probably seldom if
ever go beyond what the Sport pilot regs allow and for sure could'nt with a Piet
anyway.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=99373#99373
Message 25
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| Subject: | Building a Scimitar Prop |
In a message dated 3/7/2007 7:31:56 PM Central Standard Time,
ggower_99@yahoo.com writes:
Hello Chuck,
I will love to learn carve a scimitar prop also, some day, I will appreciate
any lead for info on carving one... Dificult to find this type of info...
Please post as you learn... I carved almost all my props, only bought one
for one ultralight years ago (IVO) not a great prop...
Saludos
Gary Gower.
Hey Gary,
The very best information I have on the Scimitar Prop, is a few short
paragraph's, and a few sketches, from the book by Eric Clutton, called 'PROPELLER
MAKING for the AMATEUR'. I've got the clamps, and the wood for the jig required,
and I'm looking around for prices of a stack of 24 birch planks, measuring
1/4" thick, 3 1/2" wide, quarter sawn, and 7 feet long.
It's basically the method to get the extreme curves in the wood, to make
the Scimitar. I'm thinking of steaming the 1/4" planks and pre-bending them,
before gluing the stack together. Then place maybe five planks at a time in
the jig, clamp it down with Resorcinol Glue, then clamping down the next series
of planks with glue, and so on with each stack till it's about 6" across,
which is the width of the hub of the prop. I think this stuff works better under
clamping pressure. I use T88 exclusively, but I don't think it would work in
this application, because you're not supposed to clamp it very tightly, but
then if it had a layer of Scrim Cloth, it would maintain the bond line to at
least .002". But then this bond line would probably be much more prevalent than
if it was Resorcinal Glue.
After it's all glued up, I'll use the plan view of the prop that I have
drawn on the top of the flat, straight, steel top table that I use to build
props on. I make a templet for each 6" station of the blade of the prop. Plane
the for and aft faces of the prop hub so they are parallel with each other,
and use a carpenters square to check the plan form of the wood, against the
sketch on the table. Then it's just a matter of whittling away everything that
doesn't look like a Scimitar Propeller !! For the Continental A65, I'm going to
start out with a 74 X 44...maybe even 46 This is certainly a time consuming
and learning process, so I'll have to see what works. I've already started a
video of the beginnings of the planning process.
In the correspondence I had with Eric, it wasn't in his book, but he
mentioned it might be better to use a kind of face plate (about 1/4" thick) on
the
forward and aft hub area of the prop, so the clamping pressure wouldn't be
against the edges of the 1/4" planks.
If it is successful, I'm going to build a Scimitar for the 150 hp
Tailwind. Steve Wittman was obviously very much into the Scimitar design, as you
can
see on the back wall of his hanger at Pioneer Field in Oshkosh.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
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