Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:53 AM - Moving wing for W & B (Oscar Zuniga)
2. 06:02 AM - finally ordered some plans... (Oscar Zuniga)
3. 06:07 AM - Hans' award-winning Piet (Oscar Zuniga)
4. 08:06 AM - Tools to start build ? (kb2qqm)
5. 08:40 AM - Re: Tools to start build ? (Phillips, Jack)
6. 09:01 AM - Re: Tools to start build ? (Rick Holland)
7. 09:12 AM - Re: Tools to start build ? (Bill Church)
8. 09:12 AM - Re: Tools to start build ? (HelsperSew@aol.com)
9. 10:06 AM - Re: Hans' award-winning Piet (hvandervoo@aol.com)
10. 10:13 AM - Re: Brodhead (shad bell)
11. 10:14 AM - Re: Hans' award-winning Piet (HelsperSew@aol.com)
12. 10:34 AM - Re: Tools to start build ? (AMsafetyC@aol.com)
13. 10:40 AM - Re: Hans' award-winning Piet (hvandervoo@aol.com)
14. 03:22 PM - Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (shad bell)
15. 04:11 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (Ed G.)
16. 04:57 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (RAMPEYBOY@aol.com)
17. 05:11 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (HelsperSew@aol.com)
18. 05:18 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (RAMPEYBOY@aol.com)
19. 05:28 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (shad bell)
20. 06:10 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (Rcaprd@aol.com)
21. 06:20 PM - Re: Tools to start build ? (kb2qqm)
22. 07:00 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (RAMPEYBOY@aol.com)
23. 07:02 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (Ed G.)
24. 08:26 PM - wing struts (Dick Navratil)
25. 09:10 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (johnwoods@westnet.com.au)
26. 09:50 PM - Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles (Javier Cruz)
Message 1
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Subject: | Moving wing for W & B |
41CC has the cabanes angled aft 4" to shift the fuselage forward. I climb
into the cockpit by lifting the wing flop section with my head and don't
have a problem getting in and out but had not really thought about if it
might have been easier with the wing 4" forward. Too much fun flying it to
worry about 'what-ifs'.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Who's that on the Red Carpet? Play & win glamorous prizes.
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Message 2
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Subject: | finally ordered some plans... |
Greg;
It sounds like you're an airline pilot so you probably aren't at your home
base much of the time, but if you'll let everyone know where your home base
(therefore, your shop) will be, maybe there is someone near you who can
collaborate on your project or at least offer tools, materials, and moral
support. Not that Piet people need much moral support, but sometimes you
stray and need correction or a gentle nudge ;o)
Also, since you do spend lots of time in different areas, if you know that
you'll be somewhere with enough time to get in touch with somebody on the
list, you can arrange to go look at their project. That's always helpful,
as well as being inspiring. Just post an email to the list saying where
you'll be and asking if there are any builders nearby. And consider this as
your invitation to check out NX41CC if you're ever in San Antonio. Just
call me at (210) 213-9936 and I'll go pick you up at SAT.
Hmmm... FL370... last weekend I spent most of my flight at probably 150' AGL
looking for wild pigs and checking on the corn crops growing in the field
just over from our airpark.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Get a preview of Live Earth, the hottest event this summer - only on MSN
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Subject: | Hans' award-winning Piet |
OK, the SWRFI webmaster has posted information and photos of the award
winners this year and Hans' airplane is at the top of the list.
Congratulations again, Hans! Webpage here:
http://www.swrfi.org/awards2007.htm
I can't tell from the photo, but it looks like the cabane braces on the
airplane are not adjustable for length and the wing may be swung back a
little. Perhaps Hans can say.
And if I'm not mistaken, the Cub that won Grand Champion Classic was one of
the airplanes that flew in with Hans. The SWRFI leadership was disappointed
that not one single award winner was there in person to receive their award
at the dinner, and halfway jokingly said they might make it "must be present
to win". That would never work, of course.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps.
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Subject: | Tools to start build ? |
Ok, I have been looking back at some of the articles about tools and what is needed.
There is some pretty good info. I just don't want to go out and buy top
of the line...(even though they are nice!)
Miter Saw ? Do I need a compound with laser? or will the cheap sears unit for
$69.99 do..(the 7 1/4")?
Table saw- What features do I need? Do I even need one, or will a miter saw do.
Band Saw...Another cheapie... for $100 or do i need bigger than a 9".
Drill Press- TableTop or Floor unit? Do I really need a laser trac ?
Sanding machine...belt/disk combo?
Our EAA chapter does have allot of this stuff, and it's only about miles away.
Problem being that when I have the time, I don't always have time to drive over
there...and the riggamorale of dealing with that.
What do I need for most of the work? What are the tools I will use the most, building
this airplane..
Another question I had... Is there a way to measure the inside ...lets say a
rib, between the bottom of the wing rib and the top...along with the angle and
distance other than using a tape measure... like measuring twice and then cutting
and then it becomes too short... Is there a tool for that ? How is that
done. Before I cut up all my spruce.
Greg
[Shocked]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=120518#120518
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Subject: | Tools to start build ? |
Greg,
Congratulations on taking the plunge to build a Pietenpol!
As for which tools to buy, I would say buy all you can afford (it is
simply NOT POSSIBLE to own too many tools, although my wife might
disagree with that). This has been discussed many times before on this
list, but to save you poring through the archives, and to save me from
having to do more mundane tasks (like work), here is my list of tools in
pretty much order of how frequently they were used to build my
Pietenpol:
BANDSAW - Mine is a 12" Sears Craftsman with a metal cutting blade.
Useful for almost all the cuts in spruce and plywood you will make, plus
good for cutting aluminum sheet.
BELT SANDER - I have a 6" Delta, with a 9" disc on the side. Almost as
necessary as the bandsaw
DRILL PRESS - I have a 12" floor model. Doesn't really matter what
brand or whether it is floor ot table mount, but be sure it goes slow
enough to drill steel (about 500 rpm)
METAL CUTTING BANDSAW - I got an ElCheapo 6" bandsaw from Grizzly Tools
and it works just fine for all the steel cutting you will need to do.To
cut 4130 you need the blade speed to be down to about 80 fpm
OXYACETYLENE WELDING RIG - I bought the Smith setup from AS&S and it did
a good job.
TABLE SAW - there are some jobs that a tablesaw is useful for,
particularly if you are making your own capstrips and longerons, rather
than buying them milled to size.
There are lots of other specialized tools that make life easier when
building an airplane, but you can a good job with the list above. You
CAN get by with much less - a handsaw, a hacksaw, a set of files, but it
will take forever and there is no real point to doing so.
Good Luck!
Jack Phillips
NX89JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of kb2qqm
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 11:06 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tools to start build ?
Ok, I have been looking back at some of the articles about tools and
what is needed. There is some pretty good info. I just don't want to
go out and buy top of the line...(even though they are nice!)
Miter Saw ? Do I need a compound with laser? or will the cheap sears
unit for $69.99 do..(the 7 1/4")?
Table saw- What features do I need? Do I even need one, or will a miter
saw do.
Band Saw...Another cheapie... for $100 or do i need bigger than a 9".
Drill Press- TableTop or Floor unit? Do I really need a laser trac ?
Sanding machine...belt/disk combo?
Our EAA chapter does have allot of this stuff, and it's only about
miles away. Problem being that when I have the time, I don't always
have time to drive over there...and the riggamorale of dealing with
that.
What do I need for most of the work? What are the tools I will use the
most, building this airplane..
Another question I had... Is there a way to measure the inside ...lets
say a rib, between the bottom of the wing rib and the top...along with
the angle and distance other than using a tape measure... like measuring
twice and then cutting and then it becomes too short... Is there a tool
for that ? How is that done. Before I cut up all my spruce.
Greg
[Shocked]
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=120518#120518
_________________________________________________
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Tools to start build ? |
>
>
> Ok, I have been looking back at some of the articles about tools and what
> is needed. There is some pretty good info. I just don't want to go out and
> buy top of the line...(even though they are nice!)
>
> Miter Saw ? Do I need a compound with laser? or will the cheap sears
> unit for $69.99 do..(the 7 1/4")?
Yes, medium cheap is ok, don't need any high tech features.
Table saw- What features do I need? Do I even need one, or will a miter saw
> do.
When it comes time to rip a 14 foot piece of leading edge stock you will
want a table saw, no special features, just a fence.
Band Saw...Another cheapie... for $100 or do i need bigger than a 9".
Have a $99 wood band saw. Next question is what will you cut steel with?
(And you will cut a lot of it). The cheap and space saving way is to get an
angle grinder for $39 using the thin 1/8" x 5" blades. The other way to go
is to get a separate metal band saw. Some people also have steel miter saws
which aren't too expensive (which is just a big angle grinder that pivots on
a platform).
Drill Press- TableTop or Floor unit? Do I really need a laser trac ?
A benchtop $99 drill press is all I have needed.
Sanding machine...belt/disk combo?
Yes a belt/disk combo, you will use it all the time with steel and wood, and
they are cheap.
Our EAA chapter does have allot of this stuff, and it's only about miles
> away. Problem being that when I have the time, I don't always have time to
> drive over there...and the riggamorale of dealing with that.
>
> What do I need for most of the work? What are the tools I will use the
> most, building this airplane..
Tools I use the most are my cordless drill, 6" bench grinder, miter saw and
belt/disk sander. The other thing to think about is welding equipment. I
figured that I would farm out all my welding figuring it would be too much
to learn but I talked myself in taking a welding class at a local community
college. Very glad I did, its a wood airplane but I believe I have spent as
much time fabricating and welding steel and aluminum as I have
cutting/sanding and gluing wood. I would have spent half my time driving
parts over to a welder to weld and re-weld if I couldn't do it myself. Plus
its one of the best things I have learned on my Piet project (I ended up
getting a Tig welder).
Another question I had... Is there a way to measure the inside ...lets say
> a rib, between the bottom of the wing rib and the top...along with the angle
> and distance other than using a tape measure... like measuring twice and
> then cutting and then it becomes too short... Is there a tool for that
> ? How is that done. Before I cut up all my spruce.
You are talking about pre-cutting your spruce capstrip pieces for your ribs
I assume. I cut mine a tiny bit long measuring with a steel ruler and then
sand the piece to fit with my handy belt/disc sander, I never try to cut the
wood to fit directly (same with steel).
Greg
>
> [Shocked]
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=120518#120518
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 7
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Subject: | Tools to start build ? |
Greg,
I haven't finished my woodwork yet. Actually, all I have completed so
far is my ribs, so I can't say what tools will prove to be the most
valuable overall. But I can tell you what I have found to be useful so
far. (By the way, you don't need to buy all the tools for the whole job
all at once before you start - just buy them as you need them). Anyway,
here's my take on things:
A miter saw would be handy when cutting the fuselage cross braces, but
not really necessary if you've got a miterbox (or even a handsaw and a
good eye - also see below re: belt/disc combo sander). Laser schmaser.
I bought rough Sitka planks, so a table saw was needed in my case. If
you're going to buy pre-cut stock (i.e. from Aircraft Spruce or Wicks,
etc) then you probably won't even need a table saw. I already had a saw,
which I use all the time. The table saw will come in handy cutting
plywood gussets, etc. but you should be able to get by without one...
unless you subconciously desire to have a table saw, and figure this is
the reason you need to justify the purchase of one...
A band saw will be invaluable to cut the steel parts (from what I've
read) - I haven't made the fittings yet, and I also have access to a
metal fabricating shop, so I don't have a band saw.
A drill press is always helpful for drilling true holes, but not
absolutely necessary. Don't forget the first Pietenpols (and many since)
were likely all built with hand tools.
A belt/disc combo sander is a very valuable tool for this project. It
has been the best value, tool-wise so far. Actually, it's the only tool
that I have bought specifically for this project. It makes the job of
mitering all those rib pieces a breeze. I made up one "master set" of
rib pieces, which I then used as a template to mark all the other
pieces. Then I just used the disc to trim to the exact length and angle.
Pictures can be found here:
http://www.mykitplane.com/Planes/buildLogReportDetail.cfm?BuildLogID=11
5
6&PlaneID=510&FName=Bill&LName=Church&PlaneName=Air%20Camper
My tools are all out in my garage. If I had to drive to a shop somewhere
else, I don't know how far along I would be. I would think that building
at home (if possible) is the only way to go. You can go work for twenty
minutes and actually get twenty minutes of work done. If you're ten
minutes drive from your shop, twenty minutes will just get you there and
back, with no work done.
Bill C.
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Tools to start build ? |
Greg,
Band Saw: I wrote an article titled "A poor man's metal-cutting band saw"
for our EAA chapter newsletter. Here is a link to the web sight. Look under
"newsletters" and look at the May '06 newsletter. _www.eaa1414.org_
(http://www.eaa1414.org) . Also, if you look at the "gallery" section, there are some
pics of my project there.
I have found one tool to be indispensable. It is a pneumatic hand-held
narrow belt sander (3/8" wide belt) that I got from Grainger. You might try
looking at Harbor Freight for a cheaper model. I use it every single day to sand
something. You can get into very tight places with it.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: | Re: Hans' award-winning Piet |
Thanks Oscar,
The=C2- Cabanes lean back about 2"
And the braces are adjustabled, 3/8" tubing with AN 490 treated rod end and
a AN 486 Fork, top side is flattened with hole.
This was originally a temporary solution, Intended to be replaced by a tube
with ends fattened.
Just to much fun flying.
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Sent: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 8:06 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Hans' award-winning Piet
=C2-
=C2-
OK, the SWRFI webmaster has posted information and photos of the award winne
rs this year and Hans' airplane is at the top of the list. Congratulations a
gain, Hans! Webpage here:=C2-
=C2-
http://www.swrfi.org/awards2007.htm=C2-
=C2-
I can't tell from the photo, but it looks like the cabane braces on the airp
lane are not adjustable for length and the wing may be swung back a little.
Perhaps Hans can say.=C2-
=C2-
And if I'm not mistaken, the Cub that won Grand Champion Classic was one of
the airplanes that flew in with Hans. The SWRFI leadership was disappointed
that not one single award winner was there in person to receive their award
at the dinner, and halfway jokingly said they might make it "must be present
to win". That would never work, of course.=C2-
=C2-
Oscar Zuniga=C2-
San Antonio, TX=C2-
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com=C2-
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net=C2-
=C2-
_________________________________________________________________=C2-
Need a break? Find your escape route with Live Search Maps. http://maps.live
.com/default.aspx?ss=Restaurants~Hotels~Amusement%20Park&cp=33.832922~-1
17.915659&style=r&lvl=13&tilt=-90&dir=0&alt=-1000&scene=1118863&
encType=1&FORM=MGAC01=C2-
=C2-
============C2-
============C2-
============C2-
=C2-
=C2-
________________________________________________________________________
AOL at AOL.com.
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Don, Are you leaving on thursday morning, or making it a 2 day flight? I think
we will leave friday a.m. and hopefully get there friday late afternoon. We
still have some engine problems we are working out, but if we solve them all and
the weather permits we will have 92GB there. We are looking forward to seeing
all the piets and piet folks there in 4 weeks.
Shad
---------------------------------
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Subject: | Re: Hans' award-winning Piet |
Hans,
Beautifully made airplane! How much higher than plans did you make your
cabanes?
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: | Re: Tools to start build ? |
For what its worth, I started with rough cut plank lumber and ripped
everything I needed for the fuse. I got the Ryobi table saw, compound miter and
router with the basic tooling to do most everything. I also have a circular saw
and 2 hand held jig saws a couple of drills and assorted bits, orbital and
belt sanders. I also have an assortment of hand tools for wood working.
I have an oxyacetylene rig, arc welding machine and a compressor with
assorted air tools.
If I had any skill I would be in business!
John
************************************** See what's free at http://www.aol.com.
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Subject: | Re: Hans' award-winning Piet |
Dan,
Thanks.
The cabanes are 2" taller than plans.
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: HelsperSew@aol.com
Sent: Mon, 25 Jun 2007 12:13 pm
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Hans' award-winning Piet
Hans,
=C2-
Beautifully made airplane!=C2- How much higher than plans did you make you
r cabanes?
=C2-
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
See what's free at AOL.com.
-= - The Pietenpol-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as the Subscriptions page,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
-========================
-= - NEW MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content now also available via the Web Forums!
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-========================
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Subject: | Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
Hello guys, Today we tried readjusting the valves ala Clarks Corvair tech tip.
This is done with the valve cover off, and engine idling. You loosen the rocker
arm nut untill it clatters, and then tighten untill it stops clatering and
then tighten one half turn. Some were adjusted down to tight, but the problem
remains. It still gets to 350-400 cht and then goes from 3200 RPMat full throttle
down to 2600-2700 rmp and souns rough. Might be detonation, or preignition,
but probably going to pull both heads to find out why. They just had a
valve job done on them while Dad rebuilt the engine. Fuel is 100LL so not sure
it would be detonating, it seems to be running on the rich side, plus enriching
the mixture with carb heat or shot of primer does not help the symtoms. It's
looking like Making Brodhead is a pipe dream at this point. It's getting
pretty discourging at this point, but gotta keep trying, As my dear ole Dad always
said..."Rome wasn't built in a day" .
Shad
---------------------------------
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Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
Hi Chad..Are you running forged pistons in your Corvair? Forged pistons
are much more dense than cast pistons and therefore expand much more
than cast pistons due to thermal expansion. I have built several racing
engines with forged pistons and the Mfg. recommended a minimum of .005"
clearance for the forged piston while the clearance for stock camground
cast pistons is .0015" . And that's in a water cooled engine. This
clearance is normally built into the piston size but if you did any
oversizing of the cylinders the machinist would have needed to know that
the extra clearance was needed. and even if you didn't the clearances
may have needed to be checked and adjusted by rigid honeing because
piston sizes out of the box can vary and car engines don't see the
continuous heavy load that they see in an airplane engine. Also, do all
Corvair rods have oil squirt holes in the connecting rods? ( I've never
built a Corvair) The squirt holes direct a stream of cooling oil at the
underside of the piston crown to cool the pistons. If your rods don't
have squirt holes or are installed up side down this would aggrevate the
problem. If your engine runs fine until the cylinder temps get high this
is something else to consider. The pistons expanding against the
cylinders would cause excess friction which would raise your oil temps.
Also are you using approved size and shape cooling shrouds? they keep
the cylinder temps down. Just some more things to consider. Hope this
hasn't already been covered by the listers...Ed Grentzer
----- Original Message -----
From: shad bell<mailto:aviatorbell@yahoo.com>
To: Pietenpol Discussion<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles
Hello guys, Today we tried readjusting the valves ala Clarks Corvair
tech tip. This is done with the valve cover off, and engine idling.
You loosen the rocker arm nut untill it clatters, and then tighten
untill it stops clatering and then tighten one half turn. Some were
adjusted down to tight, but the problem remains. It still gets to
350-400 cht and then goes from 3200 RPMat full throttle down to
2600-2700 rmp and souns rough. Might be detonation, or preignition, but
probably going to pull both heads to find out why. They just had a
valve job done on them while Dad rebuilt the engine. Fuel is 100LL so
not sure it would be detonating, it seems to be running on the rich
side, plus enriching the mixture with carb heat or shot of primer does
not help the symtoms. It's looking like Making Brodhead is a pipe dream
at this point. It's getting pretty discourging at this point, but gotta
keep trying, As my dear ole Dad always said..."Rome wasn't built in a
day" .
Shad
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
What happens if you pull back on the power? Does it smooth out? What happens
to oil pressure when it goes from smooth running to rough? I'm thinking
maybe a lifter bore is scarred, and when the oil thins it allows the lifter to
bleed down. Then it's running on 5.5 cylinders, making less power, less smooth,
and less RPM.
You've tried riching the mixture, and carb heat with no change. Sounds
like that rules out fuel starvation.
It always seems to happen when the CHT gets on up there. Could be
something "growing" and binding I guess. Maybe a valve guide too tight? Are they
steel guides, or bronze? Steel are more apt to gall than bronze.
Could the coil be getting hot? Have you swapped another coil? Could it
be vapor lock? I'm sure you've thought about all these possibilities. Have you
been able to reach WW?
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
Shad,
I have no advise for you because I am not knowledgeable. The only thing I
can offer is some encouragement. I am sure if you keep trying, you and your
dad will find the answer, as it is surely out there somewhere if you keep
trying. I am sure all who read your posts are feeling the same gut-wrenching
that you are. Keep trying and you will find the answer.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
How far are you from WW or some other Corvair powered aircraft? Maybe there
is a engine you could install on your airframe for R&D? If it does it with
another engine, then you have an issue with your fuel supply...I know this is
extreme, but how hard could it be to swap engines for an hour of
flying/testing? Have you ever had a Corvair engine on this airframe that ran like
it
should? Sorry, I haven't read all the pertinent posts on this subject...
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
Pulling back the power smoothes it out. Then when running back to wide open it
runs up to full static rpm (3200) and then runs rough after 10-15 seconds, then
pull back to 2000 rpm and all is well again. I think it is in the heads.
A valve guide too tight, or maybe a valve seat is moving around. Maybe somebody
feed it after midnight and it turned into a gremlin, might be just as likely
at this point. The coils (2 of them) are mounted behind the firewall so they
stay cool. They can be swapped inflight with a toggle switch, it has a MSD
racing coil switcher, and a dual points, distributer. Only one is on at a time,
the other is for redundency, but switching one to the other makes no difference.
Shad
RAMPEYBOY@aol.com wrote:
What happens if you pull back on the power? Does it smooth out? What
happens to oil pressure when it goes from smooth running to rough? I'm thinking
maybe a lifter bore is scarred, and when the oil thins it allows the lifter
to bleed down. Then it's running on 5.5 cylinders, making less power, less smooth,
and less RPM.
You've tried riching the mixture, and carb heat with no change. Sounds like
that rules out fuel starvation.
It always seems to happen when the CHT gets on up there. Could be something
"growing" and binding I guess. Maybe a valve guide too tight? Are they steel
guides, or bronze? Steel are more apt to gall than bronze.
Could the coil be getting hot? Have you swapped another coil? Could it be
vapor lock? I'm sure you've thought about all these possibilities. Have you been
able to reach WW?
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
In a message dated 6/25/2007 7:30:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
aviatorbell@yahoo.com writes:
Pulling back the power smoothes it out. Then when running back to wide open
it runs up to full static rpm (3200) and then runs rough after 10-15 seconds
,
then pull back to 2000 rpm and all is well again.
Shad,
It sure sounds like fuel starvation. I've never seen the typical head
temperature on Corvairs, but 350=BA - 400=BA sure seems high. What do you o
ther
Corvair Flyers get for head temp ? Maybe the eyebrows leak too much, or are
n't big
enough. I don't think my Continental ever gets much over 300=BA - 325=BA...
but
then again these A65's are known for running too cool. My oil temp hardly
ever
gets over 150=BA. I know how frustrating challenges like this can be, but k
eep
after it, and you'll figure it out.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
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Subject: | Re: Tools to start build ? |
Thanks for all the great ideas on the Tools. I just found a fellow EAA'er who
said he would teach me to TIG weld. And He said I welcome to use his machine
anytime after that. [Laughing]
I went over to sears to drool over all the tools, but walked out empty handed.
Too much to think about. gotta read first..
One thing I read in the plans booklet... said that the back seat pilots rudder
bar is preferred over "pedals", because the pedals put too much force on the
leading edge of the rudder. I don't understand that..
Does he mean with both feet on the rudder pedals you are pulling on each wire and
overstressing the rudder frame..?
any ideas? Never used a rudder bar..but I guess I will learn.
Thanks to all those that responded here and via home email. Much appreciated.
Now I understand why everyone says this is like "family"
Greg
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=120623#120623
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
I agree. One thought is the fuel bowl starts out full. After 10 -15seconds,
it begins to run empty. You pull back on the power, and the amount of
air/fuel being pull in decreases. The bowl fills back up, allowing another 10-15
seconds. Have you done a fuel flow test of your system? Level the plane put the
fuel line into a container, and see how much drains in 60 seconds. This
should give you an idea of GPH. Assuming the corvair burns 6GPH, I think it's
recommended to have 1.5 times the fuel burn. So you need 9GPH flow? I assume this
is a gravity feed fuel system, with the normal header in the center section?
Also, make sure no lines are crimped, or twisting allowing a
restriction. What type fuel vent? Does it require any "head pressure" to perform
properly? Any litter critters crawled in the vent restricting it? Something floating
around in the tank, blocking the drain? Just ideas!
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
Hi Chad...Again I apologize for not following this whole string. I agree
with Chuck and others that it sounds like fuel starvation but if you
have checked that, have you experimented with your secondary ignition
system? espeacially spark plugs. I'm assuming that you're running solid
core wires. What brand, heat range and gap are you running for plugs? I
would guess about a .030 gap and a couple heat ranges colder plug than
used in the cars, assuming you're running automotive plugs. I'm sure W.
W. has that all figured out. As cylinder temperatures rise the
resistance across the plug gap increases. If the plugs are too hot of a
heat range the porcelans will break down ( minute cracks) which will run
okay at lower temps and thottle settings but as the temps and resistance
increase they will short through the porcelans and missfire. I have run
into this with high performance engines espeacially high compression
ones. Champion plugs seem to be by far the worst offenders. The increase
in resistance across the plugs can even cause wires to short through
their insulation to ground if the wires are toughing metal. And if there
are any carbon tracks or moist dust inside the distributor cap the
higher resistance can cause the spark to jump inside the cap instead of
across the plugs. Are you running a vacume advance on your distributor?
If so, does the breaker plate have a ground wire and good primary wires
and connections. Have you checked what you're full spark advance is in
degrees. Just some things to check. Sometimes it's the simplest things
that get you. Just trying to help...Ed G.--- Original Message -----
From: shad bell<mailto:aviatorbell@yahoo.com>
To: Pietenpol Discussion<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 6:21 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles
Hello guys, Today we tried readjusting the valves ala Clarks Corvair
tech tip. This is done with the valve cover off, and engine idling.
You loosen the rocker arm nut untill it clatters, and then tighten
untill it stops clatering and then tighten one half turn. Some were
adjusted down to tight, but the problem remains. It still gets to
350-400 cht and then goes from 3200 RPMat full throttle down to
2600-2700 rmp and souns rough. Might be detonation, or preignition, but
probably going to pull both heads to find out why. They just had a
valve job done on them while Dad rebuilt the engine. Fuel is 100LL so
not sure it would be detonating, it seems to be running on the rich
side, plus enriching the mixture with carb heat or shot of primer does
not help the symtoms. It's looking like Making Brodhead is a pipe dream
at this point. It's getting pretty discourging at this point, but gotta
keep trying, As my dear ole Dad always said..."Rome wasn't built in a
day" .
Shad
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After the discussion the last couple of days on w/b and struts, I
started looking thru ACS and Wicks at their struts. I figured by
changing to aluminum wing struts I can save approx 18 lb. over the J-3
struts. It's very tempting to finish tuning the wings and install
aluminum struts and skip the turnbuckles. On my other Piet I haven't
re-tuned the rig in the last 3 yrs. It flies so nice, I hate to mess
with anything.
The biggest problem I see in changing struts is having to take it to a
welder for re-enforcing washers.
Any thoughts welcome.
Dick N.
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
Shad,
Have you tried posting you problem on Corvaircraft?
The likes of Mark Langford and others may be able to offer advice.
http://mylist.net/listinfo/corvaircraft
corvaircraft@mylist.net.
JohnW
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Subject: | Re: Still trying to figure out corvair troubles |
HI friends
Shad
My piet still is not flying,but, maybe this can help you a little, on
the break in of my engine i have been using a deposit maybe 10 inches
above of the carburator (ma3spa) feeding it by gravity, i had almost the
same problems at full power, raising the deposit the engine ran better,
i got a little electrical gas pump (4-6 psi) and with the gas tank on
the floor all was ok, the engine is not running static at 3200 like
yours , just 3000 rpm.
Is more cheap to buy a little pump that begin check the other expensive
items...
I really hope that you can resolve that problem.
Javier Cruz
PD congratulations Hans
From: Rcaprd@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, June 25, 2007 8:09 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Still trying to figure out corvair
troubles
In a message dated 6/25/2007 7:30:06 PM Central Daylight Time,
aviatorbell@yahoo.com writes:
Pulling back the power smoothes it out. Then when running back to
wide open it runs up to full static rpm (3200) and then runs rough after
10-15 seconds, then pull back to 2000 rpm and all is well again.
Shad,
It sure sounds like fuel starvation. I've never seen the typical
head temperature on Corvairs, but 350=BA - 400=BA sure seems high. What
do you other Corvair Flyers get for head temp ? Maybe the eyebrows leak
too much, or aren't big enough. I don't think my Continental ever gets
much over 300=BA - 325=BA...but then again these A65's are known for
running too cool. My oil temp hardly ever gets over 150=BA. I know
how frustrating challenges like this can be, but keep after it, and
you'll figure it out.
Chuck G.
NX770CG
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