Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:30 AM - Re: Re: Wide body. (Max Hegler)
2. 06:45 AM - Re: Re: Engines (Max Hegler)
3. 07:57 AM - Re: Brodhead - who's going this year? (Skip Gadd)
4. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: Wide body. (walt evans)
5. 10:32 AM - Re: Wide body. (kb2qqm)
6. 10:39 AM - Re: Re: Wide body. (Gordon Bowen)
7. 10:59 AM - Re: Who's going to Brodhead? (Tim Verthein)
8. 03:52 PM - Continental Motor Mount Jigs Photos? (Ben Charvet)
9. 03:52 PM - weight of NX41CC (Oscar Zuniga)
10. 04:42 PM - Re: Continental Motor Mount Jigs Photos? (Gordon Bowen)
11. 07:05 PM - Re: Shad Bell: Tractor Pull Competition (shad bell)
12. 08:56 PM - Re: weight of NX41CC (Dick Navratil)
13. 09:02 PM - Re: Piet Builder Identity (Roman Bukolt)
14. 09:38 PM - Re: Saw Blades (del magsam)
Message 1
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I understand that...Pietpenpol about 80% done with 80% to go and RV-7 about
20% done with 80% to go...
Take Care,
Max Hegler
----- Original Message -----
From: "kb2qqm" <kb2qqm@mac.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 9:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wide body.
> A part of me just loves the look, and the wood, and the vintage feel of
> the airplane. Another part of me likes the quicknes of the sonex, with
> the
> CNC drilled parts that just fit together. Especially for a first time
> kit.
>
> Is there anywhere (anybody) that has an order parts list for the Empenage?
> How much spruce and Ply?
>
> Thanks..
> Greg
>
Message 2
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Why are you laughing? It sounds pretty good to me...am I missing something?
Max
----- Original Message -----
From: "kb2qqm" <kb2qqm@mac.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 11:29 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Engines
>
> Engine Sound
>
> http://www.stampe.org/USA%20pages/First%20run.wav
>
> [Laughing]
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121309#121309
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Brodhead - who's going this year? |
Shad,
We will probably leave Brodhead for West Virginia on Sunday. We could head back
together. Felix likes to cruz about 67 or 68 mph.
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: shad bell
Sent: 6/28/2007 7:26:40 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Brodhead - who's going this year?
Skip, What day are you flying back home after you get to Brodhead? If we get there
we could fly part of the way home togeather down through Indianna. I was
thinking about going up to Oshkosh after Brodhead but not sure I want to spend
2 million dollars to eat, sleep and tie an airplane down.
Shad
Message 4
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Greg,
Yes, I have a mat'l list from a previous builder, and a mat'l list quoted by
AS&S back in about 1998. I ordered from that and it worked out nicely. If
you like I'll send directly to you.
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: "kb2qqm" <kb2qqm@mac.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 10:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wide body.
>
> I started studying the plans last night for a couple of hours, trying not
> to get psyched out. I thought about making the whole thing just a little
> wider.
>
> Then I got to reading the building guide and the rest of the posts here,
> and decided this morning to build a rear cockpit mockup. So I could see
> if there were any fit problems.
> I fit. But I see how it would be tight squeeze. Maybe I can butter up
> the cockpit :-)
> Then I started seeing how making the airplane wider affects so many other
> things. At first I just started to imagine the fuselage and the extra
> wood required (weight), then I would have to redesign the center wing
> section, then the wing struts, the landing gear. With all the extra
> weight and design changes, maybe a bigger engine. My mind just started to
> snowball at the changes. So should I re-invent the wheel, and re-doo the
> whole airplane to a wider dimension, and take the weight penalty or should
> I build it to plans? I think if I redesign it, then I become a test
> pilot. The other dilema I am facing is the performance hit. What's the
> airplane going to fly like once it's done?
>
> A part of me just loves the look, and the wood, and the vintage feel of
> the airplane. Another part of me likes the quicknes of the sonex, with
> the
> CNC drilled parts that just fit together. Especially for a first time
> kit.
>
> Is there anywhere (anybody) that has an order parts list for the Empenage?
> How much spruce and Ply?
>
> Thanks..
> Greg
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121292#121292
>
>
>
Message 5
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that would be great..
Greg
kb2qqm(at)mac.com
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121377#121377
Message 6
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Couple of points re mods on plans:
1) no matter what, you are a test pilot, even if you build it to exact
plans. You built it, you get to test it. Keep that in mind each and every
time you do a pre-flight on any airplane.
2) Everyone does some sort of mod to their plans and planes, it's just the
nature of homebuilding. Some of the best plans for homebuilts were put out
by Rutan, and they were still highly modified by the individual builders.
3) Making the body a little wider apparently does not have much negative
impact on performance, the Questar-Venture looks like an egg at the mid
section. It's still one of the fastest homebuilts around.
I've often lamented I didn't make the fuselage about 4" wider at the pilot's
seat and a tad "egg-shaped" the entire fuselage, had the darn thing
completely apart for rewelding the 4130 after the wreck. Shoulda done it.
Lot easier than losing 40 lbs.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "kb2qqm" <kb2qqm@mac.com>
Sent: Friday, June 29, 2007 6:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Wide body.
>
> I started studying the plans last night for a couple of hours, trying not
> to get psyched out. I thought about making the whole thing just a little
> wider.
>
> Then I got to reading the building guide and the rest of the posts here,
> and decided this morning to build a rear cockpit mockup. So I could see
> if there were any fit problems.
> I fit. But I see how it would be tight squeeze. Maybe I can butter up
> the cockpit :-)
> Then I started seeing how making the airplane wider affects so many other
> things. At first I just started to imagine the fuselage and the extra
> wood required (weight), then I would have to redesign the center wing
> section, then the wing struts, the landing gear. With all the extra
> weight and design changes, maybe a bigger engine. My mind just started to
> snowball at the changes. So should I re-invent the wheel, and re-doo the
> whole airplane to a wider dimension, and take the weight penalty or should
> I build it to plans? I think if I redesign it, then I become a test
> pilot. The other dilema I am facing is the performance hit. What's the
> airplane going to fly like once it's done?
>
> A part of me just loves the look, and the wood, and the vintage feel of
> the airplane. Another part of me likes the quicknes of the sonex, with
> the
> CNC drilled parts that just fit together. Especially for a first time
> kit.
>
> Is there anywhere (anybody) that has an order parts list for the Empenage?
> How much spruce and Ply?
>
> Thanks..
> Greg
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=121292#121292
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Who's going to Brodhead? |
We are! Me 'n' th' wife. Driving from Bovey, MN down to Minneapolis to
see my folks thursday, then off to Brodhead Friday morning. We're
staying at the Gasthaus Motel in Monroe, where I understand their
county fair is going on that weekend too. We're rolling out for Oshkosh
Sunday morning. Alledgedly we're staying at the Settle Inn in Kaukauna
for two nights for Oshkosh, but I am skeptical as my wife made
reservations on line, we have them confirmed with a printed
confirmation, but it's at a "normal" rate, not the usual double or
triple special Oshkosh rate everyone seems to have so I wouldn't be
surprised to find out they're screwed up.
Interesting motel things I've learned this year. Legally, reservations
mean nothing. They don't really HAVE to have a room, or one that meets
the specifications that you reserved, not to mention the rate. AND
online confirmations may not be real. We made reservations in
Marshalltown Iowa for a day of Corvair racing over labor day.
Confirmed. Were e-mailed a confirmation. We called to see about
changing to a different room as it turns out my Son will be able to
attend with us, and when we called they said they didn't have ANY
reservation for us! Grrrrr. Kindlike how an airline dosen't really HAVE
to have a plane. Or a seat. Or a flight..that you have a ticket for.
Cripes.
Tim in Bovey
==
You *can* repair a flip-flop with a capacitor!
==
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Continental Motor Mount Jigs Photos? |
Hi All,
I'm getting ready to fabricate the motor mount for an A-65. I remember
seeing some pictures of jigs others have used for this, but they don't
show up when browsing the archives. Anyone out there have a picture of
the jig they used they could send me off list? I'm sure I could come up
with something on my own, but like most of my Piet building I combine my
creativity with that of others..
Ben Charvet
Mims, Fl
NX866BC
Message 9
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| Subject: | weight of NX41CC |
Per digital race car scales, with 3 qts. oil and any unusable fuel, 41CC
weighs 633 lbs.
I don't believe in weighing without unusable fuel and minimum operating oil,
and consider it to be part of the basic empty weight.
I weigh 151 lbs. according to the same scales, before I drank a beer and
after I drained my internal tank. Prior to doing the W&B I flew 0.6 hrs. to
burn off some fuel in the airplane's tank, drained the rest, and did the
W&B. Also checked the mechanical tach against a digital "True Tach" and
found the following:
RPM- mechanical tach/digital tach
1000/900
1500/1330
2000/1840
2200/2000
This explains why I can set power in level cruise and exceed redline (2250
RPM) on this engine so easily... it's reading about 200 RPM high when in
that range. Now I know I can safely cruise it at 2450 indicated, which is
where it likes to cruise anyway. With this prop I really need an A75 to
take full advantage ;o)
Another delightful day of playing with the Pietenpol!
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________________________
Picture this share your photos and you could win big!
http://www.GETREALPhotoContest.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Continental Motor Mount Jigs Photos? |
Ben,
I think we still have the A-75 motor mount laying around the hanger in
Palatka. Think my builder buddies may have taken it to S&fun and sold same
but you're welcome to use it as a jig if it's still there. Contact me off
group at gbowen@ptialaska.net and I'll give you the guy's telephone number
in Satsuma that you'd need to contact.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Charvet" <bcharvet@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 2:50 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Continental Motor Mount Jigs Photos?
>
> Hi All,
> I'm getting ready to fabricate the motor mount for an A-65. I remember
> seeing some pictures of jigs others have used for this, but they don't
> show up when browsing the archives. Anyone out there have a picture of
> the jig they used they could send me off list? I'm sure I could come up
> with something on my own, but like most of my Piet building I combine my
> creativity with that of others..
>
> Ben Charvet
> Mims, Fl
> NX866BC
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Shad Bell: Tractor Pull Competition |
Hello guys, BAD NEWS, while testing the engine for detonation friday afternoon
all was going well with the test run untill I made one more full power check
and everything went rough. I pulled the power back and it almost quit so I
quickly shut her down. Went to pull the prop through and I'll be damned, I burnt
up the #4 piston. I then quickly switched from Iced Tea to cold Miller Light
and started pulling everything apart. I got the cylinder off and am waiting
on parts now. #4 is the same one we had to replace during the rebuild, Might
have a messed up head (cracked) or might have a leaking helicoil for the plug.
I am too stupid to give up trying to have it ready for Brodhead in 3 weeks
but I will try up to the bitter end. If I drive up with Dad we'll talk about
it over some cold ones, and mabey I can bum a piet ride from one of the guys
who actually make it there.
Not throwing in the towel yet
Shad
Okay Shad....my money is on you buddy at the Ohio State Fair tractor
pull. Bring it on !
Mike C. in Ohio
---------------------------------
Take the Internet to Go: Yahoo!Go puts the Internet in your pocket: mail, news,
photos & more.
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: weight of NX41CC |
Hey Oscar
I want to order 3 of you beautiful data plates, but I can't remember the
important info. What is your address and how much?
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Sent: Saturday, June 30, 2007 5:51 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: weight of NX41CC
> <taildrags@hotmail.com>
>
> Per digital race car scales, with 3 qts. oil and any unusable fuel, 41CC
> weighs 633 lbs.
>
> I don't believe in weighing without unusable fuel and minimum operating
> oil, and consider it to be part of the basic empty weight.
>
> I weigh 151 lbs. according to the same scales, before I drank a beer and
> after I drained my internal tank. Prior to doing the W&B I flew 0.6 hrs.
> to burn off some fuel in the airplane's tank, drained the rest, and did
> the W&B. Also checked the mechanical tach against a digital "True Tach"
> and found the following:
>
> RPM- mechanical tach/digital tach
> 1000/900
> 1500/1330
> 2000/1840
> 2200/2000
>
> This explains why I can set power in level cruise and exceed redline (2250
> RPM) on this engine so easily... it's reading about 200 RPM high when in
> that range. Now I know I can safely cruise it at 2450 indicated, which is
> where it likes to cruise anyway. With this prop I really need an A75 to
> take full advantage ;o)
>
> Another delightful day of playing with the Pietenpol!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Picture this - share your photos and you could win big!
> http://www.GETREALPhotoContest.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM&loc=us
>
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Piet Builder Identity |
OK, all you creative geniuses who plan on making it to Brodhead, see if
you can come up with some type of Identity device so that we can spot
each other without having to stare down at your breast to see if you
have a name to go with these emails.
Bill Rewey suggested something that could be spotted 30 ft. away, front
or back, like a certain common color wrist band or something on your hat
or cap if you're wearing one, or a common color bandana or whatever.
Unless you guys like to stare down at other guys breasts ?????
Roman Bukolt
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, June 27, 2007 9:26 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Engines
If you are getting a new table saw (or miter saw) blade I would
recommend a DIablo (96 tooth for a 10 inch). Expensive but makes a big
difference with the softer woods especially when you need to rip long
leading/trailing edge or capstip. Diablos are about half the thickness
of normal blades too.
Rick
On 6/26/07, Tom Winter <c150gpilot@yahoo.com> wrote:
<c150gpilot@yahoo.com>
Hello all, I just got on board. After about 10 years of dithering
what to build, I've settled on a Pietenpol. So far:
I have acquired 4 Model A Ford engines, and the Hoopman plans. Two
engines are soaking in kerosene, one is disassembled, and the
likeliest
boat anchor is still untouched. I'm hoping that cherry-picking from
the 4, I can get most of a good engine. I have laid out the rib,
and
next step is to put a new blade in my table saw.
Tom Winter (past pres EAA 569, owner Cessna 150G)
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 14
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I use to sell commercial blades to wood shops, and my brother took over the business
and is still selling commercial carbide products. So I know for a fact that
a 96 teeth is way too many for ripping...40 is for ripping and a 60 tooth
will work for ripping and crosscutting. the only time you need more than that
is for mitering prefinished house trim or picture frames. or your saw is not running
true, and only a few teeth are doing the work. Thin kerf is fine, but it
has a harder time running true in thicker woods. The bottom line is this...cheap
blades are stamped out of soft steel, and the carbide teeth are welded in
without being sharpened too well. They will work better after they have been
sharpened once. Higher dollar blades are ground plates, tensioned to run true
at high rpms, teeth welded in and ground so that each tooth is following each
other within .002. And good blades only produce good results if your arbor is
running true on your saw. If you have a good saw
and a good blade you can actually cut and leave no saw marks on your wood, making
jointers obsolete, I throw my finger eating jointer out years ago. The secret
to cutting capstrips and other thin pieces is a new wood insert in your saw
and then crank the running blade up through it so that there is no spaces between
it and the blade.
Del
If you are getting a new table saw (or miter saw) blade I would recommend a DIablo
(96 tooth for a 10 inch). Expensive but makes a big difference with the softer
woods especially when you need to rip long leading/trailing edge or capstip.
Diablos are about half the thickness of normal blades too.
Rick
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
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