Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:46 AM - Re: tailwheel steering arm question (hvandervoo@aol.com)
2. 06:07 AM - Re: Radio and tail hook release (hvandervoo@aol.com)
3. 06:25 AM - braze or weld (Dan Loegering)
4. 06:46 AM - Re: braze or weld (gcardinal)
5. 06:46 AM - Re: braze or weld (Dave Abramson)
6. 07:10 AM - Re: Value of EAA (Tom Winter)
7. 07:33 AM - Re: Value of EAA (RAMPEYBOY@aol.com)
8. 08:16 AM - Re: braze or weld (bike.mike)
9. 09:52 AM - FW: braze or weld (Patrick Panzera)
10. 11:12 AM - Re: braze or weld (Gordon Bowen)
11. 11:25 AM - braze or weld and guilt (Steve Glass)
12. 11:43 AM - Re: FW: braze or weld ()
13. 12:07 PM - Re: FW: braze or weld ()
14. 02:50 PM - Re: braze or weld and guilt (Ed G.)
15. 04:36 PM - Re: Radio and tail hook release (Gene & Tammy)
16. 04:36 PM - Re: Radio and tail hook release (Gene & Tammy)
17. 04:36 PM - Re: Radio and tail hook release (Gene & Tammy)
18. 04:36 PM - Re: Radio and tail hook release (Gene & Tammy)
19. 08:10 PM - Re: Engines for sale........ (Chet's Mail)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: tailwheel steering arm question |
Douwe,
See my setup (attached)
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: Douwe Blumberg <douweblumberg@earthlink.net>
Sent: Fri, 17 Aug 2007 8:52 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List: tailwheel steering arm question
Guys (and gals?)
?
Just finished building a tailwheel, and am scratching my head about what length
to make the steering arms.? How long are yours?
?
Douwe
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Radio and tail hook release |
Gene,
Too hot in Texas also, plus?frequent rain and thunderstorms make it a Humid place.
The other day at 2000 feet it was still hot, unreal feeling, like flying in?a oven.
Still manage to Fly at least once a week (need my fix)
I use a ICOM A6 with rubber duckie, Headset and a PTT on?the stick.
I fabricated a bracket on the top RH?longeron, and use the ICOM belt clip for mounting
and easy removal
See attached file.
I get a good 4 to 5 mile transmitting range and 20 receiving.
No tailhook release, Corvair with electric start.
Hans
-----Original Message-----
From: Gene & Tammy <zharvey@bellsouth.net>
Sent: Thu, 23 Aug 2007 3:31 pm
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Radio and tail hook release
Pieters,
It's too hot (106) to fly or work in the hanger or shop so I'm hanging around (inside)
the house doing the things I should have gotten done a long time ago.?
While doing those honey-dooos I was thinking about my Piet and what needs to
be done next.? Corky sent me a new set of eyebrows that I need to finish up and
paint and I guess the next item I need to take care of is my radio.
I'm not having much luck getting out on the old hand held.? Not sure if it's because
I have it laying down next to my seat or because I'm using a rubber duckie
antenna.? Where do the rest of you find to be the best place to keep your handheld??
(I'm 200 lbs and take up most of the cockpit)? Are you using the rubber
duckie or do you have a permanent antenna.? If so, where?
Another item I'm going to have to come up with is a tail hook release.? With my
old prop I could start the engine and at idle remove my chock and the Piet would
stay put while I got in.? With the new prop (74 X 38) not a chance!? What
I've had to do so far is place small wedges of wood under each wheel so that after
I remove the Chock the plane will stay put.? I just?raise the RPM a bit and
roll over the wedges when I want to leave.? I'm not happy doing it that way
and would rather come up with a tail hook release I can control from the cockpit.?
Anyone have any ideas?
Here's an observation I'd like to pass on to any tall person that is building a
Piet.? Make your dash slanted rather than straight up and down.? I'm tall (6')
and I'm not able to easly see the gages on my dash.? It would be so much easier
if the dash was slanted.
Just noticed the time.? Better get back to the Honey dooos as?THE wife will be
getting home soon.?
Gene?? in HOT Tennessee (poor ol fat boy from Alaska doesn't do well in the heat)
N502R
________________________________________________________________________
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Message 3
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Starting in on the metal parts for the controls. Have a question on the various
call outs on the plans. Some areas call out brazing the parts together (elevator
belcrank, etc...). Is brazing adequate here or should all joints be welded?
How did you do yours?
Thank you.
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: braze or weld |
Dan,
Common practice is to weld 4130, brazing is limited to mild steel.
You may hear dissenting comments.
Good quality welds give good peace of mind......
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dan Loegering" <danl@odayequipment.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: braze or weld
> <danl@odayequipment.com>
>
>
> Starting in on the metal parts for the controls. Have a question on the
> various call outs on the plans. Some areas call out brazing the parts
> together (elevator belcrank, etc...). Is brazing adequate here or should
> all joints be welded?
>
> How did you do yours?
>
> Thank you.
>
> Dan Loegering
> Fargo, ND
>
>
>
Message 5
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Brazing is VERY strong when done correctly. I think it is just easier than
welding so BP made the parts he could that way. Nothing wrong with it.
Dave
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Dan Loegering
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:25 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: braze or weld
<danl@odayequipment.com>
Starting in on the metal parts for the controls. Have a question on the
various call outs on the plans. Some areas call out brazing the parts
together (elevator belcrank, etc...). Is brazing adequate here or should
all joints be welded?
How did you do yours?
Thank you.
Dan Loegering
Fargo, ND
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Value of EAA |
Boyce,
Buy a flying C150? That's what I did. But everything costs
something: having my own plane to fly sure slows down the project
progress. But I'm flying. Now my main building motorvator
(deliberate sp.) is to eventually pay less: when my Piet is real,
rather than mostly just the sparkle in its daddy's eyes, I will do my
own work on it, just like on my cars. Owning even the little Cessna
costs like buying a pretty good used car every year: hangar rent,
annual, and insurance make it a wallet-siphon just dripping oil on
the hangar floor. And I can't legally lay a wrench on it. Oh, I can
air up the tires and change oil.
As for EAA, the beating heart of it is in the local chapters. Great
pilot support group. I would not be a pilot if I hadn't joined the
Lincoln, NE chapter.
Tom
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Value of EAA |
Tom, you're right. It's just frustrating though seeing the costs involved,
and knowing every year it's going to get tougher! But, I'm sticking with my
Mustang project. I'll finish it, and after a few years probably sell it, and
start a Piet or a flybaby.
Boyce
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: braze or weld |
BHP didn't have access to 4130, which is now the standard aircraft tubing
alloy. Brazing was very strong for the mild steel tubes he could get.
4130 is stronger than BHP's tubing, but it does not braze well. In many
cases, 4130 is actually weakened by brazing, even if done very well.
4130 is ideal for welding by the home craftsman since it does not require
later heat treatment.
Mike Hardaway
----- Original Message -----
From: "gcardinal" <gcardinal@comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 6:47 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: braze or weld
>
> Dan,
>
> Common practice is to weld 4130, brazing is limited to mild steel.
> You may hear dissenting comments.
> Good quality welds give good peace of mind......
>
> Greg Cardinal
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Dan Loegering" <danl@odayequipment.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:25 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: braze or weld
>
>
> > <danl@odayequipment.com>
> >
> >
> >
> > Starting in on the metal parts for the controls. Have a question on the
> > various call outs on the plans. Some areas call out brazing the parts
> > together (elevator belcrank, etc...). Is brazing adequate here or
should
> > all joints be welded?
> >
> > How did you do yours?
> >
> > Thank you.
> >
> > Dan Loegering
> > Fargo, ND
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 9
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>
> BHP didn't have access to 4130, which is now the standard aircraft tubing
> alloy. Brazing was very strong for the mild steel tubes he could get.
> 4130 is stronger than BHP's tubing, but it does not braze well. In many
> cases, 4130 is actually weakened by brazing, even if done very well.
> 4130 is ideal for welding by the home craftsman since it does not require
> later heat treatment.
I've often wondered about the prejudice against brazing aircraft parts when
I know that for many decades bicycle and motorcycle frames were all brazed,
even 4130.
Maybe an engine mount might see stresses way higher than a bicycle will ever
see, but I doubt a stick or bellcrank or just about any of the other "bits"
used on light aircraft can take the forces that a bottom bracket would be
subjected to by a 175 lb triathlete stomping up a steep hill.
Pat
Message 10
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Subject: | Re: braze or weld |
For those of you brazing instead of welding, you may want to ck with an AP
mechanic, EAA tech advisor or the FAA's acceptable practices book. I think
I remember reading somewhere why it's not allowed, maybe it had to do with
vibration?. It may be OK and argueable but in the end, you'll have to have
an FAA inspector or DAR inspect your plane before you can get the
airworthiness cert., and unless this guy thinks brazing is OK and allowed,
the arguement of whether a brazed part is just as strong as a welded part is
moot. These DAR's are not rocket scientists, mostly they come from a
background of guys who have put together a kit plane like Van's and/or a
retire commerical airline pilot who's built a Lancair, and unless they've
seen this practice of brazing spam cans or kit projects before and know it's
ok, they're gonna squawk. Damn few DAR's come from a background of actually
building a plans from scratch airplane so they're real picky.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Patrick Panzera" <Panzera@experimental-aviation.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 8:51 AM
Subject: FW: Pietenpol-List: braze or weld
> <Panzera@Experimental-Aviation.com>
>
>
>>
>> BHP didn't have access to 4130, which is now the standard aircraft tubing
>> alloy. Brazing was very strong for the mild steel tubes he could get.
>> 4130 is stronger than BHP's tubing, but it does not braze well. In many
>> cases, 4130 is actually weakened by brazing, even if done very well.
>> 4130 is ideal for welding by the home craftsman since it does not require
>> later heat treatment.
>
> I've often wondered about the prejudice against brazing aircraft parts
> when
> I know that for many decades bicycle and motorcycle frames were all
> brazed,
> even 4130.
>
> Maybe an engine mount might see stresses way higher than a bicycle will
> ever
> see, but I doubt a stick or bellcrank or just about any of the other
> "bits"
> used on light aircraft can take the forces that a bottom bracket would be
> subjected to by a 175 lb triathlete stomping up a steep hill.
>
> Pat
>
>
>
Message 11
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Subject: | braze or weld and guilt |
Just to add my 2 cents. I have noticed references to brazing on the plans
and wondered if it was OK still to do that.
One of my other builds I want to do is a Lotus 7 car replica. The original
space frame chassis were brazed. The new ones are robot welded. Richard
Finch states in his book that brazing is as strong as the base metal.
I have always liked the way brazing flows in and fillets joints for a neater
appearance with less heat. Somehow I never felt is was as strong as a good
weld. He also states that if you ever braze you can never go back and weld
in that spot because of the brazing rod flowing into the pores of the metal.
Has anybody else brazed their metal Piet parts. Do you feel guilty doing
it?
Steve in Maine
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 12
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Subject: | Re: braze or weld |
Pat et al,
I wondered about the same thing until I did some research.
4130 is only one of several alloys that is called "chromoly" or "Cro-Mo". These
alloys are called that because, in addition to iron, the alloys have a high
percentage of chromium and molybdenum, with a relatively small amount of carbon.
4130, specifically, was developed for welding by Oxy-Acetylene torches. It
has a relatively low carbon percentage, compared to high carbon steels, achieving
its strength through the alloying properties of the other constituents,
and does not require heat treating after welding to attain near pre-welded strength.
Many bicycle frames have been made, typically brazed, from tubing that has been
called chormoly but probably should not be. Some lower-quality bikes have been
built out of 4130, even brazed, but have been built quite heavy in order to
achieve their required strength. Most bicycle frames that are brazed are made
from tubing that has a much lower percentage of chromium and a much higher percentage
of manganese than in 4130.
Brazed bicycle frames also typically use lugs at each joint to considerably increase
the amount of brazed area at each joint. It takes a lot of training and
practice to become a fully competent frame builder.
One extremely popular tubing is Reynolds 531 which has about the same carbon content
of 4130 but a much lower chromium content and about three times the manganese.
531 is more properly nicknamed "Mn-Mo" and is much more brazable than
4130.
It has been reported on this list that brazing 4130 can produce microscopic cracks
in the 4130 near the braze metal. This is likely due to the high chromium
content compared to alloys designed to be brazed.
For the TYPICAL home craftsman, it is most adviseable to weld 4130. The skill
to weld a good joint is relatively easy to acquire and the welded joint will be
easily inspected. Brazing can be strong, but the techniques to get a good brazed
joint are a little obscure. If you absolutely have to have a brazed joint,
use a tubing alloy more amenable to brazing.
Mike Hardaway
---- Patrick Panzera <Panzera@experimental-aviation.com> wrote:
>
>
> >
> > BHP didn't have access to 4130, which is now the standard aircraft tubing
> > alloy. Brazing was very strong for the mild steel tubes he could get.
> > 4130 is stronger than BHP's tubing, but it does not braze well. In many
> > cases, 4130 is actually weakened by brazing, even if done very well.
> > 4130 is ideal for welding by the home craftsman since it does not require
> > later heat treatment.
>
> I've often wondered about the prejudice against brazing aircraft parts when
> I know that for many decades bicycle and motorcycle frames were all brazed,
> even 4130.
>
> Maybe an engine mount might see stresses way higher than a bicycle will ever
> see, but I doubt a stick or bellcrank or just about any of the other "bits"
> used on light aircraft can take the forces that a bottom bracket would be
> subjected to by a 175 lb triathlete stomping up a steep hill.
>
> Pat
>
>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: braze or weld |
---- Patrick Panzera <Panzera@experimental-aviation.com> wrote:
>
> I've often wondered about the prejudice against brazing aircraft parts when
> I know that for many decades bicycle and motorcycle frames were all brazed,
> even 4130.
>
> Maybe an engine mount might see stresses way higher than a bicycle will ever
> see, but I doubt a stick or bellcrank or just about any of the other "bits"
> used on light aircraft can take the forces that a bottom bracket would be
> subjected to by a 175 lb triathlete stomping up a steep hill.
>
As an aside on relative stresses and an illustration of what Pat is talking about,
I have fatigued and broken six very-high-quality bike frames, five of which
were brazed. Only two of the failures were at the bottom bracket, though.
I have never broken an airplane part made of welded 4130.
I have never flown an airplane part made of brazed anything, as far as I know.
When I have broken my bikes, I have always been able to limp home. A failed control
system in an airplane would be somewhat more problematic.
Mike Hardaway
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: braze or weld and guilt |
I was in the end process of building my control parts as per the plans
years ago when this "no brazing" string came up. being a perfectionist I
had a couple of weeks worth of work in my control parts at the time. I
did a lot of research in an effort to confirm the claim. I check with
the welding instructor at the tech center where I work who traines world
champion VICA welding competitors, I borrowed and researched welding
textbooks, I bought and checked out several welding manuals, I read
43-13 and finally I bought and read the book written by Mr. finch where
this string was supposed to origionate from. The only place that I found
anything on the subject was about two sentenses in Mr. Finche's book
which said that when 4130 steel is brazed the grain of the steel expands
letting brass enter the voids between the grain, when the 4130 cools the
brass hardens first and does not let the steel contract to it's
origional state causing the steel to potentially split along the grain
lines. Sounds like one very experinenced welders opinion to me. I heard
from several builders who said they had brazed their 4130 as per the
plans and had been flying with them for many years. I have since remade
some of the more critical parts and welded them but some of the small
but labor intesive parts like the control tube bushings which would
require additional weeks of work to remake the whole control tube will
be flying with me. Bottom line is if you haven't made the part yet I
would weld the 4130 rather than braze it. If it is a critical part like
the bellcrank, It's not that big of a deal to make a new one. Ed G.
----- Original Message -----
From: Steve Glass<mailto:redsglass@hotmail.com>
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com<mailto:pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Friday, August 24, 2007 2:25 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: braze or weld and guilt
<redsglass@hotmail.com<mailto:redsglass@hotmail.com>>
Just to add my 2 cents. I have noticed references to brazing on the
plans
and wondered if it was OK still to do that.
One of my other builds I want to do is a Lotus 7 car replica. The
original
space frame chassis were brazed. The new ones are robot welded.
Richard
Finch states in his book that brazing is as strong as the base metal.
I have always liked the way brazing flows in and fillets joints for a
neater
appearance with less heat. Somehow I never felt is was as strong as a
good
weld. He also states that if you ever braze you can never go back
and weld
in that spot because of the brazing rod flowing into the pores of the
metal.
Has anybody else brazed their metal Piet parts. Do you feel guilty
doing
it?
Steve in Maine
_________________________________________________________________
See what you're getting into.before you go there
http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview_05
07<http://newlivehotmail.com/?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_migration_HM_viral_preview
_0507>
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m/Navigator?Pietenpol-List>
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Radio and tail hook release |
Hans, thanks for the reply. How do you overcome the wind noise in your
mic? I think it's really unkind of you corvair guys to talk about
electric start.
Gene
Message 16
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Subject: | Re: Radio and tail hook release |
Peter, thanks for the info. The photo of the handheld will help a lot
but I couldn't get the page for the antenna to come up. An electric
start would help.
Thanks again
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Peter W Johnson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 5:55 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Radio and tail hook release
Gene,
Re the radio antenna, I put mine behind the pilot=92s seat
(http://www.cpc-world.com/new_card_images/pages/IMG_0213_JPG). I know
it=92s a bit late if you are already flying but it works well. I have
seen a similar antenna mounted on the outside of the fuse on a Corby
Starlet that looked OK.
The only problem I have with the radio is wind noise in the mike. My
handheld mounts at my right hand
(http://www.cpc-world.com/new_card_images/images/IMG_0394_JPG.jpg).
As for the tail hook, well an electric start on the Corvair does away
with the need!!!!
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gene &
Tammy
Sent: Friday, 24 August 2007 6:32 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Radio and tail hook release
Pieters,
It's too hot (106) to fly or work in the hanger or shop so I'm hanging
around (inside) the house doing the things I should have gotten done a
long time ago. While doing those honey-dooos I was thinking about my
Piet and what needs to be done next. Corky sent me a new set of
eyebrows that I need to finish up and paint and I guess the next item I
need to take care of is my radio.
I'm not having much luck getting out on the old hand held. Not sure
if it's because I have it laying down next to my seat or because I'm
using a rubber duckie antenna. Where do the rest of you find to be the
best place to keep your handheld? (I'm 200 lbs and take up most of the
cockpit) Are you using the rubber duckie or do you have a permanent
antenna. If so, where?
Another item I'm going to have to come up with is a tail hook release.
With my old prop I could start the engine and at idle remove my chock
and the Piet would stay put while I got in. With the new prop (74 X 38)
not a chance! What I've had to do so far is place small wedges of wood
under each wheel so that after I remove the Chock the plane will stay
put. I just raise the RPM a bit and roll over the wedges when I want to
leave. I'm not happy doing it that way and would rather come up with a
tail hook release I can control from the cockpit. Anyone have any
ideas?
Here's an observation I'd like to pass on to any tall person that is
building a Piet. Make your dash slanted rather than straight up and
down. I'm tall (6') and I'm not able to easly see the gages on my dash.
It would be so much easier if the dash was slanted.
Just noticed the time. Better get back to the Honey dooos as THE wife
will be getting home soon.
Gene in HOT Tennessee (poor ol fat boy from Alaska doesn't do well
in the heat)
N502R
Date: 22/08/2007 6:51 PM
22/08/2007 6:51 PM
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
8/22/2007 6:51 PM
Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Radio and tail hook release |
Skip,
I'm trying to work out just how I would make the "fork". It sounds like
a really good idea.
Gene
Message 18
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Subject: | Re: Radio and tail hook release |
Roman,
I'm trying your "rope trick" in the morning. Once you have it in the
cockpit, where do you stow it while your flying?
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Roman Bukolt
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Radio and tail hook release
This is how I do it.
I have a 35 ft . piece of 3/16" nylon rope. Nothing else. No
gadgets, hooks, or mechanical releases.
I run the rope under one side of the tail wheel steering arm, then
around a post, then back under the other tail wheel arm and bring both
ends up to the right rear cabane ( one end around the cabane) and tie
the two ends together shoe lace bow fashion and position the knot along
side the cockpit.
Then I nudge the plane forward until the line is tight. I give it one
more push to make sure the knot will not untie.
Then I prime the Cont. A-65, flip the mag switch and start the engine
with throttle at full idle. The engine runs at about 550 rpm. I crawl
in, buckle up,check oil pressure, and when ready, untie the "shoe lace"
by pulling on one of the loose ends, coil the line up and stow it in my
cockpit. Simple as you can make it.
Works for me!
Roman Bukolt NX20795
BTW I believe Bill Rewey and Lowell Frank also do it this same way.
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene & Tammy
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 3:31 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Radio and tail hook release
Pieters,
It's too hot (106) to fly or work in the hanger or shop so I'm
hanging around (inside) the house doing the things I should have gotten
done a long time ago. While doing those honey-dooos I was thinking
about my Piet and what needs to be done next. Corky sent me a new set
of eyebrows that I need to finish up and paint and I guess the next item
I need to take care of is my radio.
I'm not having much luck getting out on the old hand held. Not sure
if it's because I have it laying down next to my seat or because I'm
using a rubber duckie antenna. Where do the rest of you find to be the
best place to keep your handheld? (I'm 200 lbs and take up most of the
cockpit) Are you using the rubber duckie or do you have a permanent
antenna. If so, where?
Another item I'm going to have to come up with is a tail hook
release. With my old prop I could start the engine and at idle remove
my chock and the Piet would stay put while I got in. With the new prop
(74 X 38) not a chance! What I've had to do so far is place small
wedges of wood under each wheel so that after I remove the Chock the
plane will stay put. I just raise the RPM a bit and roll over the
wedges when I want to leave. I'm not happy doing it that way and would
rather come up with a tail hook release I can control from the cockpit.
Anyone have any ideas?
Here's an observation I'd like to pass on to any tall person that is
building a Piet. Make your dash slanted rather than straight up and
down. I'm tall (6') and I'm not able to easly see the gages on my dash.
It would be so much easier if the dash was slanted.
Just noticed the time. Better get back to the Honey dooos as THE
wife will be getting home soon.
Gene in HOT Tennessee (poor ol fat boy from Alaska doesn't do well
in the heat)
N502R
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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8/22/2007 6:51 PM
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Engines for sale........ |
I would be interested please send photos and any other information you
have.
I do thank you for your time.
Chet Hartley
Missouri
----- Original Message -----
From: KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
To: Pietenpol
Sent: Thursday, August 23, 2007 7:38 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Engines for sale........
Members of the list:
As many of you may know, I am one of the few builders creating a "Wide
Body" Pietenpol ( hey you other guys...we need to create a neat "wide
body" Logo to identify our planes) with plans of using a Continental
A-65. There has been a change in plans! Keep reading.....
I am going to install a c-85 or C-90 in my "wide body" as I deemed it
necessary if I am going to gain any altitude....So here is the deal for
fellow builders...
I have an A-65 Continental for sale, complete, flange shaft, no logs,
need rebuild....and I have another hanger mate who has a Continental
C-75 for sale with 30 hours on rebuild. It has a log book, complete
engine removed from a Zenair for more HP, less carb. He has adapted on
the front of the engine a starter and generator which can be unbolted
and removed. Please call me for more information and interest in these
very "reasonably priced" engines! This would be a good deal for any
Pieter seeking an engine for their project!
Ken Heide
Fargo, ND
218-486-1963 Home
701-793-3030 Cell
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