Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:52 AM - Re: Welding Headache (walt evans)
2. 06:11 AM - Re: Welding Headache (Glenn Thomas)
3. 06:48 AM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (walt evans)
4. 07:16 AM - Re: Welding Headache (VAHOWDY@aol.com)
5. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Ben Charvet)
6. 09:22 AM - Re: spinning the Piet - Pat green contact info (Tim Willis)
7. 09:34 AM - Re: Power plant engines again (AMsafetyC@aol.com)
8. 11:53 AM - Re: Power plant engines again (Jim Ash)
9. 11:55 AM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Jim Ash)
10. 12:00 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Scott Knowlton)
11. 12:38 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Panzera)
12. 02:22 PM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Gordon Bowen)
13. 02:38 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
14. 03:42 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (shad bell)
15. 03:44 PM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Clif Dawson)
16. 04:07 PM - Flying the Chevy (NX92GB) (shad bell)
17. 04:13 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Jim Ash)
18. 04:22 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Jim Ash)
19. 04:55 PM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Ben Charvet)
20. 07:07 PM - Re: Welding Headache (Glenn Thomas)
21. 07:25 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
Glen,
You chould use mild filler rod,
And make sure that you let the piece cool in still air (very important)
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 11:54 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Welding Headache
> <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
>
> I've been playing around welding some scrap pieces and decided to make
> something for my son. I learned that when you get the inner cone of the
> flame too close to the puddle... POP!!! The puddle then comes down on you
> like 4th of July fireworks. My problem is that it seems like the 1/16th
> R45 welding rod I'm using doesn't quickly melt in the puddle. I've had to
> go over the welds again because they look "slaggy" and without the rod to
> worry about on the second pass I can watch everything smooth out into the
> puddle as I work it from one side to the other. I've been trying to get a
> good size puddle going to ensure penetration and it looks fair when I'm
> done. The problem is the welds don't seem that strong. Actually, brittle
> is the word I would use. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?? Using
> Harris Aviator torch with 1/16th square tubing and 1/8 x 1/2 strap.
> Welding the strap to the different size tubing doesn't seem to be that
> hard, but then again, my welds aren't tha!
> t strong. As a beginner you can see progress pretty quickly. Just wish I
> could get the strength I always associated with welding.
>
> Thanks in advance!
>
> --------
> Glenn Thomas
> N?????
> http://www.flyingwood.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132304#132304
>
>
>
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
Thanks guys. I'm using my largest tip right now (Harris #2). Using R45 which
is mild steel filler rod same thickness as the smallest piece I'm welding. I'm
going to try going up to 10lbs Oxygen and 10 lbs Acet. I've been keeping it
set at 7lbs. I'll pick up the next larger tip and see if that helps. It may
be just a matter of getting enough practice. Thanks for coming back with some
good suggestions so quickly.
Heading out to finish the current project right now.
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132331#132331
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
Glen,
My thoughts on tip size is kind of the other way. Think you have to go to a
smaller tip. Each tip is designed to have a certain minimum flow through it,
to not allow the burn to chase up inside. I used a Victor #0, i think, for
most of what I did. Had to go to #000 for the thin stuff.
Again, quoting my Mentor, The tip has to have the right amoumt of flow
through it, which also causes the air on the outside of the tip, to travel
down the length of the tip, and join the mix. This causes all the burning to
go in one direction.
Kind of like the spiral fins on the side of a verticle smoke stack. The
fumes exiting the end cause a low pressure area, that causes the air around
the outside of the pipe to rush up to fill it. On the way up it is made to
spiral, kind of like rifleing in a gun barrel.
Try a smaller tip
Walt Evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
----- Original Message -----
From: "Glenn Thomas" <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 9:10 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache
> <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
>
> Thanks guys. I'm using my largest tip right now (Harris #2). Using R45
> which is mild steel filler rod same thickness as the smallest piece I'm
> welding. I'm going to try going up to 10lbs Oxygen and 10 lbs Acet. I've
> been keeping it set at 7lbs. I'll pick up the next larger tip and see if
> that helps. It may be just a matter of getting enough practice. Thanks
> for coming back with some good suggestions so quickly.
>
> Heading out to finish the current project right now.
>
> --------
> Glenn Thomas
> N?????
> http://www.flyingwood.com
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132331#132331
>
>
>
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
I found that too much OX will cause the pop you are talking about. Watch the
flame tip as you add OX to the mix. You bring the flame down to the single
diamond, then back off the OX so that there is some flame past the diamond at
the tip. To much ox will cause the metal to burn (pop) to much fuel will cause
soot to form on the surface.
Howdy
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on
it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping
using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you
use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape.
This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop
at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes
showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp
pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause
your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch
(Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good
advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the
metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart
I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes.
Ben Charvet
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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Subject: | spinning the Piet - Pat green contact info |
Pat Green's home no. is 904.741.4018. Please extend my regards.
Tim Willis-- Tim in central TX
-----Original Message-----
>From: Brian Kraut <brian.kraut@engalt.com>
>Sent: Aug 31, 2007 11:29 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: spinning the Piet
>
>
>Would you have any contact for Pat? I am also in Jacksonville and I was not
>aware of any other Piets here.
>
>Brian Kraut
>Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
>www.engalt.com
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
>[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ben
>Charvet
>Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 11:09 AM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: spinning the Piet
>
>
>
> Pat Green in Jacksonville told me story story about spinning the
>Piet. This guy has a Piet with a BP conversion Corvair with belt driven
>fan. He was commenting that his Piet with a rudder built to the plans
>tended to loose rudder authority on the flair, especially with a tall
>pilot. Anyway a friend of his strapped on a chute and took it up high
>and put it into a spin. Pat was on the ground watching this, and he was
>yelling Jump out!, Jump out! because it got pretty close to the ground
>before the pilot recovered. Later on Pat had a small accident that
>ended up with the Piet on its back and he had to rebuild the rudder. He
>made it a little bit taller. After talking to him I added 3 or 4 inches
>to my rudder when I built it. I'm extending my motormount 4 inches, so
>the extra rudder authority won't hurt. Getting in and out of a Piet
>that was spinning while wearing a parachute wouldn't be easy. Here is a
>link to a picture of Pat's Piet. (He is over 70 years old and has been
>flying this since the 70's)
>
>Ben Charvet
>http://flycorvair.com/green.html
>
>
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Power plant engines again |
I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car
for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it.
The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968
Monza, so I am not expecting anything special.
I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power
plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for
our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this
engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to
completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so.
I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair
builders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I
was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used
in my piet.
Thanks
John Recine.
Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read!
http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Power plant engines again |
Corvair engines for the later models (1965-1969) came in 95, 110, 140, and 180
hp, and further more subtle differences. 95's didn't come with turbos, only 180's,
so your seller obviously isn't up on their Corvairs. I believe William's
recommendation is to use a 110 (William, are you there to comment?) I've been
really sick the last couple days, so I'm not firing on all eight (or six, if you
prefer) as I try to hack up a lung and type at the same time, but if you're
going to tear it down to the mains anyhow (and you will want to), the 95 and
the 110 are to my recollection very similar. The're both pretty stout engines.
The stock 140 will have four carburetors and is unsuitable for your purposes.
The 180 will have the turbo and some rather distinct variations to support it
(as compared to the other engines); it is also unsuitable for your purposes.
If you can get to the car, there's a small casting that mounts to the rear of the
engine that holds the alternator, oil pressure sender, fuel pump, and oil filler
tube (an old friend calls it the holds-everything bracket). Nestled down
in front of that casting and behind the top shroud is an exposed section of engine
block with the engine code stamped on it. You may have to dig through leaves/grease/mice
nests/etc to expose it. I've got a little x-reference book called
the Corvair Junkyard Primer with all the codes listed in it and I can tell
you which engine you're looking at if you reply back to the list with it. You
also can't discount that people have swapped engines on cars so much the engine
might not be a match for the car model/year, not that you really care. Just
be aware that anything goes sometimes with finds like this.
Also, bring a wrench (13/16", if memory serves), put it on the end of the crank
and try to move it a little. If it isn't frozen, your chances of the engine being
good are better.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: AMsafetyC@aol.com
>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:33 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again
>
>I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car
>for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it.
>
>The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968
>Monza, so I am not expecting anything special.
>
>I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power
>plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for
>our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this
> engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to
>completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so.
>
>I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair
>builders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I
>was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used
> in my piet.
>
>
>Thanks
>
>John Recine.
>
>Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read!
>
>
>http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 9
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
Do you remember the instructor at Sun 'n Fun or what he looked like?
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net>
>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:08 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache
>
>
>I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on
>it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping
>using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you
>use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape.
>This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop
>at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes
>showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp
>pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause
>your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch
>(Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good
>advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the
>metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart
>I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes.
>
>Ben Charvet
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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Subject: | Power plant engines again |
John,
William Wynn's manual lists the serial numbers that are recommended good re
build candidates. It would be a good idea to have those handy to help you
make a decision on this purchase. I have helped to remove one Corvair engi
ne from a car and can tell you its a bear!! If you contact your closest CO
RSA chapter they are great at leading you to a supply of corvair engines of
ten which have already been removed from a rusted out "donor".
I was able to locate a good core for a hundred bucks within a twenty minute
drive from my home!! If you haven't purchased WW's manual ($60.00) I woul
d highly recommend you do. If you are just looking for serial numbers for
now I can extract them from my copy. Good luck.
Scott Knowlton
(slow builder in Burlington Ontario)
From: AMsafetyC@aol.comDate: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 12:33:53 -0400Subject: Re: Pie
tenpol-List: Power plant engines againTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car
for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it.
The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968 Mon
za, so I am not expecting anything special.
I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power
plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines f
or our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability o
f this engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to
completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so.
I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair b
uilders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so
I was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to b
e used in my piet.
Thanks
John Recine.
Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read!
AOL.com.
_________________________________________________________________
Discover the new Windows Vista
E
Message 11
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Subject: | Power plant engines again |
>
> Corvair engines for the later models (1965-1969) came in 95, 110, 140, and
> 180 hp, and further more subtle differences. 95's didn't come with turbos,
> only 180's,
Although you are technically accurate, and by no means do I want to sound
disagreeable, but when a car has been available to "mechanics" for over 40
years, there are no guarantee of matching equipment.
The reality of it is, a 180 turbo induction system (including exhaust) will
bolt to any model head (long block), from and early 80hp up to late 180hp
9and it would run), excluding the 140; but I suppose that if one were to
bock off the second set of intake ports (carb base flanges) one could also
bolt a turbo to a 140 and it would also run.
Not that anyone in their right mind would do this, and no telling how long
it would run before it detonates itself... but you never know.
I wrote this a few years ago. It may help.
http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/EngineID.htm
Pat
Message 12
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
Lots of years ago I spent an entire week at Osh doing the composites
workshop and had time to hangout with the volunteer instructors at the
welding workshop. If memory serves me, they insisted the flame had to be
slightly rich in fuel and lite on the oxygen. The flame was adjusted just
down to the diamond blue tip and then backed off on the oxygen to make a
"carbon rich flame". Reason- the excess oxygen in the flame would burn out
the 0.30 % (I think, that's what the 30 stands for in 4130) carbon thats in
4130 steel, leaving a weaker weld. If the flame is oxygen rich the carbon
burning up in the steel making CO2 gas will make the weld pop and bubble up.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Jim Ash" <ashcan@earthlink.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:55 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache
>
> Do you remember the instructor at Sun 'n Fun or what he looked like?
>
> Jim Ash
>
> -----Original Message-----
>>From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net>
>>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:08 PM
>>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache
>>
>>
>>I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on
>>it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping
>>using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you
>>use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape.
>>This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop
>>at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes
>>showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp
>>pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause
>>your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch
>>(Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good
>>advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the
>>metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart
>>I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes.
>>
>>Ben Charvet
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: Power plant engines again |
John,
Make sure you purchase the correct corvair engine listed by William Wynne. There
are certain models to stay away from....And Ibelieve one of them is the turbo
charged designed?...I was going to use a corvair in my application...(another
story for another time) But I do remember in his conversion guide he makes
mention of specific engines that will work for his conversion...
Hope this helps before you spend $$ on a wrong engine model...
Ken H
Fargo, ND
I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car
for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it.
The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968 Monza,
so I am not expecting anything special.
I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power plant
since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for our
applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this engine
design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to completely
rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so.
I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair builders
and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I was
interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used in
my piet.
Thanks
John Recine.
Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read!
AOL.com.
Kenneth M. Heide, BA,CPO,FAAOP
---------------------------------
Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase.
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Power plant engines again |
John, Having rebuilt our corvair engine 2 1/2 times I can give a little bit of
advise. Your best bet is to first get the wynne mannual, and the Finch corvair
mannuals, and also the GM mannuals. Then locate a 1965-1969 non turbo engine.
Wynne's mannual tells which ones to stay away from, DO YOUR RESEARCH, AND
CHECK PART NUMBERS ON THE HEADS, THE EMISION FRIENDLY VERSIONS ARE HAZZARDOUS
TO YOUR WELL BEING.. From experiance I recomend NOT using the 1964 engine. The
heads and cylinders are different than the 65-69 engines, and 65-69 are interchangable.
The 65-69 heads and cylinders are "beefier" than the 64. I would
also recomend buying a set of jugs, and pistons (forged) from clarks corvair,
You will have to have a head shop install the wrist pins in the piston and
rod, unless you have a rod heater, it doesn't cost too much. We found out the
hard way about making sure the heads are good. If you buy an engine make sure
the sparkplug holes are clean and not helicoiled.
We have 16hrs on the new engine and all is well. The head was the culprit that
caused or contributed to a broken crankshaft after 60 hrs, and burned up the
#4 piston 5 hrs after rebuilding with a nitrided crank. I am starting to get
more comfortable with the corvair, as we had some major let downs, but they
were all out of the ordinarry wierd problems we encountered. Feel free to e-mail
me off list if you have any other questions.
Shad
---------------------------------
Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when.
Message 15
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
Glen,
What pressures are your reguators set at?
Clif
If the flame is oxygen rich the carbon
> burning up in the steel making CO2 gas will make the weld pop and bubble
> up.
> Gordon
>
Message 16
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Subject: | Flying the Chevy (NX92GB) |
Well she's still running good "knock knock". I flew down to Stewart Field in Waynesville
Ohio today for the taildragger fly-in. It only took 1hr 15 min each
way, and it is almost exsactly 100sm each way. Maby we should have put NR92GB,
instead of NX ha ha ha. Thats an honnest 80mph. We have 16 hrs on the piet
in the last 3 weeks. I saw Skipp Gadd there, he flew his 172 in on sat, looked
like a good turn out but I got there just before "Go Home Time". This would
be another good unofficial piet fly in in the future, no asphault, just dust
and grass. Now all I have to do is start flight testing with weight in the
front cockpit, Then I can stay out longer if I bring the wife along. Hope you
all have a wonderfull Labor Day.
Shad
NX92GB
---------------------------------
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Message 17
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Subject: | Re: Power plant engines again |
Where is this car? I've had my eye out for a decent late-model body.
Jim Ash
-----Original Message-----
>From: AMsafetyC@aol.com
>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:33 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again
>
>I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car
>for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it.
>
>The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968
>Monza, so I am not expecting anything special.
>
>I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power
>plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for
>our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this
> engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to
>completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so.
>
>I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair
>builders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I
>was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used
> in my piet.
>
>
>Thanks
>
>John Recine.
>
>Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read!
>
>
>http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour
Message 18
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Subject: | Power plant engines again |
Been there.
My '66 Ultravan came with a '61 distributor and the numbers on the rods were backwards
(6-1 instead of 1-6), which I didn't find out until one of the rods shot
through the crank cover.
Jim
-----Original Message-----
>From: Panzera <panzera@experimental-aviation.com>
>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 3:37 PM
>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again
>
>
>>
>> Corvair engines for the later models (1965-1969) came in 95, 110, 140, and
>> 180 hp, and further more subtle differences. 95's didn't come with turbos,
>> only 180's,
>
>Although you are technically accurate, and by no means do I want to sound
>disagreeable, but when a car has been available to "mechanics" for over 40
>years, there are no guarantee of matching equipment.
>
>The reality of it is, a 180 turbo induction system (including exhaust) will
>bolt to any model head (long block), from and early 80hp up to late 180hp
>9and it would run), excluding the 140; but I suppose that if one were to
>bock off the second set of intake ports (carb base flanges) one could also
>bolt a turbo to a 140 and it would also run.
>
>Not that anyone in their right mind would do this, and no telling how long
>it would run before it detonates itself... but you never know.
>
>I wrote this a few years ago. It may help.
>
>http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/EngineID.htm
>
>Pat
>
>
Message 19
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
I don't remember his name, but he had a big beard. I didn't see him
there last year.
Ben
Jim Ash wrote:
>
>Do you remember the instructor at Sun 'n Fun or what he looked like?
>
>Jim Ash
>
>-----Original Message-----
>
>
>>From: Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net>
>>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:08 PM
>>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache
>>
>>
>>I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on
>>it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping
>>using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you
>>use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape.
>>This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop
>>at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes
>>showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp
>>pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause
>>your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch
>>(Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good
>>advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the
>>metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart
>>I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes.
>>
>>Ben Charvet
>>
>>
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 20
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Subject: | Re: Welding Headache |
This list is the best! Where else could you throw out a question to the world
before bed and wake up almost expecting some kind of help. I took Dan Wilson's
advice. With regulators at 7 lbs. I opened the acetylene wide open, then opened
the oxygen wide open and backed down the pressure at the oxy regulator till
I saw a nice neutral flame. Cone was clear and a little larger than I'd been
seeing before and made nice puddles with no popping and able to weld straight
through in one pass. I think with #2 tip it was a little too much heat so
I'm going to take Walt's advice and go back down to the #0 tip. Thanks to everyone,
I really enjoyed reading each suggestion and the remaining welds show that
the advice from this list is fantastic.
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132432#132432
Message 21
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Subject: | Re: Power plant engines again |
Shad,
Enjoyed meeting you and your father at Brodhead....Please email me a number
where I can contact you for some deep corvair engine conversation.
Ken H
Fargo, ND
shad bell <aviatorbell@yahoo.com> wrote:
John, Having rebuilt our corvair engine 2 1/2 times I can give a little bit
of advise. Your best bet is to first get the wynne mannual, and the Finch corvair
mannuals, and also the GM mannuals. Then locate a 1965-1969 non turbo engine.
Wynne's mannual tells which ones to stay away from, DO YOUR RESEARCH,
AND CHECK PART NUMBERS ON THE HEADS, THE EMISION FRIENDLY VERSIONS ARE HAZZARDOUS
TO YOUR WELL BEING.. From experiance I recomend NOT using the 1964 engine.
The heads and cylinders are different than the 65-69 engines, and 65-69 are
interchangable. The 65-69 heads and cylinders are "beefier" than the 64. I
would also recomend buying a set of jugs, and pistons (forged) from clarks corvair,
You will have to have a head shop install the wrist pins in the piston
and rod, unless you have a rod heater, it doesn't cost too much. We found out
the hard way about making sure the heads are good. If you buy an engine make
sure the sparkplug holes are clean and not
helicoiled. We have 16hrs on the new engine and all is well. The head was the
culprit that caused or contributed to a broken crankshaft after 60 hrs, and
burned up the #4 piston 5 hrs after rebuilding with a nitrided crank. I am starting
to get more comfortable with the corvair, as we had some major let downs,
but they were all out of the ordinarry wierd problems we encountered. Feel
free to e-mail me off list if you have any other questions.
Shad
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