---------------------------------------------------------- Pietenpol-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sun 09/02/07: 21 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:52 AM - Re: Welding Headache (walt evans) 2. 06:11 AM - Re: Welding Headache (Glenn Thomas) 3. 06:48 AM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (walt evans) 4. 07:16 AM - Re: Welding Headache (VAHOWDY@aol.com) 5. 09:08 AM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Ben Charvet) 6. 09:22 AM - Re: spinning the Piet - Pat green contact info (Tim Willis) 7. 09:34 AM - Re: Power plant engines again (AMsafetyC@aol.com) 8. 11:53 AM - Re: Power plant engines again (Jim Ash) 9. 11:55 AM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Jim Ash) 10. 12:00 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Scott Knowlton) 11. 12:38 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Panzera) 12. 02:22 PM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Gordon Bowen) 13. 02:38 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP) 14. 03:42 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (shad bell) 15. 03:44 PM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Clif Dawson) 16. 04:07 PM - Flying the Chevy (NX92GB) (shad bell) 17. 04:13 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Jim Ash) 18. 04:22 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (Jim Ash) 19. 04:55 PM - Re: Re: Welding Headache (Ben Charvet) 20. 07:07 PM - Re: Welding Headache (Glenn Thomas) 21. 07:25 PM - Re: Power plant engines again (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:52:51 AM PST US From: "walt evans" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Welding Headache Glen, You chould use mild filler rod, And make sure that you let the piece cool in still air (very important) Walt Evans NX140DL "No one ever learned anything by talking" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Thomas" Sent: Saturday, September 01, 2007 11:54 PM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Welding Headache > > > I've been playing around welding some scrap pieces and decided to make > something for my son. I learned that when you get the inner cone of the > flame too close to the puddle... POP!!! The puddle then comes down on you > like 4th of July fireworks. My problem is that it seems like the 1/16th > R45 welding rod I'm using doesn't quickly melt in the puddle. I've had to > go over the welds again because they look "slaggy" and without the rod to > worry about on the second pass I can watch everything smooth out into the > puddle as I work it from one side to the other. I've been trying to get a > good size puddle going to ensure penetration and it looks fair when I'm > done. The problem is the welds don't seem that strong. Actually, brittle > is the word I would use. Any idea what I could be doing wrong?? Using > Harris Aviator torch with 1/16th square tubing and 1/8 x 1/2 strap. > Welding the strap to the different size tubing doesn't seem to be that > hard, but then again, my welds aren't tha! > t strong. As a beginner you can see progress pretty quickly. Just wish I > could get the strength I always associated with welding. > > Thanks in advance! > > -------- > Glenn Thomas > N????? > http://www.flyingwood.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132304#132304 > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:11:15 AM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache From: "Glenn Thomas" Thanks guys. I'm using my largest tip right now (Harris #2). Using R45 which is mild steel filler rod same thickness as the smallest piece I'm welding. I'm going to try going up to 10lbs Oxygen and 10 lbs Acet. I've been keeping it set at 7lbs. I'll pick up the next larger tip and see if that helps. It may be just a matter of getting enough practice. Thanks for coming back with some good suggestions so quickly. Heading out to finish the current project right now. -------- Glenn Thomas N????? http://www.flyingwood.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132331#132331 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:48:04 AM PST US From: "walt evans" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache Glen, My thoughts on tip size is kind of the other way. Think you have to go to a smaller tip. Each tip is designed to have a certain minimum flow through it, to not allow the burn to chase up inside. I used a Victor #0, i think, for most of what I did. Had to go to #000 for the thin stuff. Again, quoting my Mentor, The tip has to have the right amoumt of flow through it, which also causes the air on the outside of the tip, to travel down the length of the tip, and join the mix. This causes all the burning to go in one direction. Kind of like the spiral fins on the side of a verticle smoke stack. The fumes exiting the end cause a low pressure area, that causes the air around the outside of the pipe to rush up to fill it. On the way up it is made to spiral, kind of like rifleing in a gun barrel. Try a smaller tip Walt Evans NX140DL "No one ever learned anything by talking" ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Thomas" Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 9:10 AM Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache > > > Thanks guys. I'm using my largest tip right now (Harris #2). Using R45 > which is mild steel filler rod same thickness as the smallest piece I'm > welding. I'm going to try going up to 10lbs Oxygen and 10 lbs Acet. I've > been keeping it set at 7lbs. I'll pick up the next larger tip and see if > that helps. It may be just a matter of getting enough practice. Thanks > for coming back with some good suggestions so quickly. > > Heading out to finish the current project right now. > > -------- > Glenn Thomas > N????? > http://www.flyingwood.com > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132331#132331 > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 07:16:17 AM PST US From: VAHOWDY@aol.com Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Welding Headache I found that too much OX will cause the pop you are talking about. Watch the flame tip as you add OX to the mix. You bring the flame down to the single diamond, then back off the OX so that there is some flame past the diamond at the tip. To much ox will cause the metal to burn (pop) to much fuel will cause soot to form on the surface. Howdy http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 09:08:47 AM PST US From: Ben Charvet Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape. This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch (Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes. Ben Charvet > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 09:22:16 AM PST US From: Tim Willis Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: spinning the Piet - Pat green contact info Pat Green's home no. is 904.741.4018. Please extend my regards. Tim Willis-- Tim in central TX -----Original Message----- >From: Brian Kraut >Sent: Aug 31, 2007 11:29 AM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: spinning the Piet > > >Would you have any contact for Pat? I am also in Jacksonville and I was not >aware of any other Piets here. > >Brian Kraut >Engineering Alternatives, Inc. >www.engalt.com > >-----Original Message----- >From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com >[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ben >Charvet >Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 11:09 AM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: spinning the Piet > > > > Pat Green in Jacksonville told me story story about spinning the >Piet. This guy has a Piet with a BP conversion Corvair with belt driven >fan. He was commenting that his Piet with a rudder built to the plans >tended to loose rudder authority on the flair, especially with a tall >pilot. Anyway a friend of his strapped on a chute and took it up high >and put it into a spin. Pat was on the ground watching this, and he was >yelling Jump out!, Jump out! because it got pretty close to the ground >before the pilot recovered. Later on Pat had a small accident that >ended up with the Piet on its back and he had to rebuild the rudder. He >made it a little bit taller. After talking to him I added 3 or 4 inches >to my rudder when I built it. I'm extending my motormount 4 inches, so >the extra rudder authority won't hurt. Getting in and out of a Piet >that was spinning while wearing a parachute wouldn't be easy. Here is a >link to a picture of Pat's Piet. (He is over 70 years old and has been >flying this since the 70's) > >Ben Charvet >http://flycorvair.com/green.html > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:34:12 AM PST US From: AMsafetyC@aol.com Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it. The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968 Monza, so I am not expecting anything special. I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so. I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair builders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used in my piet. Thanks John Recine. Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read! http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 11:53:24 AM PST US From: Jim Ash Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again Corvair engines for the later models (1965-1969) came in 95, 110, 140, and 180 hp, and further more subtle differences. 95's didn't come with turbos, only 180's, so your seller obviously isn't up on their Corvairs. I believe William's recommendation is to use a 110 (William, are you there to comment?) I've been really sick the last couple days, so I'm not firing on all eight (or six, if you prefer) as I try to hack up a lung and type at the same time, but if you're going to tear it down to the mains anyhow (and you will want to), the 95 and the 110 are to my recollection very similar. The're both pretty stout engines. The stock 140 will have four carburetors and is unsuitable for your purposes. The 180 will have the turbo and some rather distinct variations to support it (as compared to the other engines); it is also unsuitable for your purposes. If you can get to the car, there's a small casting that mounts to the rear of the engine that holds the alternator, oil pressure sender, fuel pump, and oil filler tube (an old friend calls it the holds-everything bracket). Nestled down in front of that casting and behind the top shroud is an exposed section of engine block with the engine code stamped on it. You may have to dig through leaves/grease/mice nests/etc to expose it. I've got a little x-reference book called the Corvair Junkyard Primer with all the codes listed in it and I can tell you which engine you're looking at if you reply back to the list with it. You also can't discount that people have swapped engines on cars so much the engine might not be a match for the car model/year, not that you really care. Just be aware that anything goes sometimes with finds like this. Also, bring a wrench (13/16", if memory serves), put it on the end of the crank and try to move it a little. If it isn't frozen, your chances of the engine being good are better. Jim Ash -----Original Message----- >From: AMsafetyC@aol.com >Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:33 PM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again > >I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car >for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it. > >The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968 >Monza, so I am not expecting anything special. > >I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power >plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for >our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this > engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to >completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so. > >I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair >builders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I >was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used > in my piet. > > >Thanks > >John Recine. > >Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read! > > >http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 11:55:57 AM PST US From: Jim Ash Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache Do you remember the instructor at Sun 'n Fun or what he looked like? Jim Ash -----Original Message----- >From: Ben Charvet >Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:08 PM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache > > >I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on >it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping >using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you >use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape. >This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop >at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes >showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp >pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause >your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch >(Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good >advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the >metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart >I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes. > >Ben Charvet > >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 12:00:21 PM PST US From: Scott Knowlton Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again John, William Wynn's manual lists the serial numbers that are recommended good re build candidates. It would be a good idea to have those handy to help you make a decision on this purchase. I have helped to remove one Corvair engi ne from a car and can tell you its a bear!! If you contact your closest CO RSA chapter they are great at leading you to a supply of corvair engines of ten which have already been removed from a rusted out "donor". I was able to locate a good core for a hundred bucks within a twenty minute drive from my home!! If you haven't purchased WW's manual ($60.00) I woul d highly recommend you do. If you are just looking for serial numbers for now I can extract them from my copy. Good luck. Scott Knowlton (slow builder in Burlington Ontario) From: AMsafetyC@aol.comDate: Sun, 2 Sep 2007 12:33:53 -0400Subject: Re: Pie tenpol-List: Power plant engines againTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it. The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968 Mon za, so I am not expecting anything special. I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines f or our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability o f this engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so. I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair b uilders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to b e used in my piet. Thanks John Recine. Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read! AOL.com. _________________________________________________________________ Discover the new Windows Vista E ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 12:38:41 PM PST US From: "Panzera" Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again > > Corvair engines for the later models (1965-1969) came in 95, 110, 140, and > 180 hp, and further more subtle differences. 95's didn't come with turbos, > only 180's, Although you are technically accurate, and by no means do I want to sound disagreeable, but when a car has been available to "mechanics" for over 40 years, there are no guarantee of matching equipment. The reality of it is, a 180 turbo induction system (including exhaust) will bolt to any model head (long block), from and early 80hp up to late 180hp 9and it would run), excluding the 140; but I suppose that if one were to bock off the second set of intake ports (carb base flanges) one could also bolt a turbo to a 140 and it would also run. Not that anyone in their right mind would do this, and no telling how long it would run before it detonates itself... but you never know. I wrote this a few years ago. It may help. http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/EngineID.htm Pat ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 02:22:29 PM PST US From: "Gordon Bowen" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache Lots of years ago I spent an entire week at Osh doing the composites workshop and had time to hangout with the volunteer instructors at the welding workshop. If memory serves me, they insisted the flame had to be slightly rich in fuel and lite on the oxygen. The flame was adjusted just down to the diamond blue tip and then backed off on the oxygen to make a "carbon rich flame". Reason- the excess oxygen in the flame would burn out the 0.30 % (I think, that's what the 30 stands for in 4130) carbon thats in 4130 steel, leaving a weaker weld. If the flame is oxygen rich the carbon burning up in the steel making CO2 gas will make the weld pop and bubble up. Gordon ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Ash" Sent: Sunday, September 02, 2007 10:55 AM Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache > > Do you remember the instructor at Sun 'n Fun or what he looked like? > > Jim Ash > > -----Original Message----- >>From: Ben Charvet >>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:08 PM >>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache >> >> >>I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on >>it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping >>using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you >>use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape. >>This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop >>at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes >>showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp >>pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause >>your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch >>(Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good >>advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the >>metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart >>I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes. >> >>Ben Charvet >> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 02:38:47 PM PST US From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again John, Make sure you purchase the correct corvair engine listed by William Wynne. There are certain models to stay away from....And Ibelieve one of them is the turbo charged designed?...I was going to use a corvair in my application...(another story for another time) But I do remember in his conversion guide he makes mention of specific engines that will work for his conversion... Hope this helps before you spend $$ on a wrong engine model... Ken H Fargo, ND I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it. The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968 Monza, so I am not expecting anything special. I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so. I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair builders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used in my piet. Thanks John Recine. Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read! AOL.com. Kenneth M. Heide, BA,CPO,FAAOP --------------------------------- Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 03:42:29 PM PST US From: shad bell Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again John, Having rebuilt our corvair engine 2 1/2 times I can give a little bit of advise. Your best bet is to first get the wynne mannual, and the Finch corvair mannuals, and also the GM mannuals. Then locate a 1965-1969 non turbo engine. Wynne's mannual tells which ones to stay away from, DO YOUR RESEARCH, AND CHECK PART NUMBERS ON THE HEADS, THE EMISION FRIENDLY VERSIONS ARE HAZZARDOUS TO YOUR WELL BEING.. From experiance I recomend NOT using the 1964 engine. The heads and cylinders are different than the 65-69 engines, and 65-69 are interchangable. The 65-69 heads and cylinders are "beefier" than the 64. I would also recomend buying a set of jugs, and pistons (forged) from clarks corvair, You will have to have a head shop install the wrist pins in the piston and rod, unless you have a rod heater, it doesn't cost too much. We found out the hard way about making sure the heads are good. If you buy an engine make sure the sparkplug holes are clean and not helicoiled. We have 16hrs on the new engine and all is well. The head was the culprit that caused or contributed to a broken crankshaft after 60 hrs, and burned up the #4 piston 5 hrs after rebuilding with a nitrided crank. I am starting to get more comfortable with the corvair, as we had some major let downs, but they were all out of the ordinarry wierd problems we encountered. Feel free to e-mail me off list if you have any other questions. Shad --------------------------------- Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Comedy with an Edge to see what's on, when. ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 03:44:01 PM PST US From: Clif Dawson Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache Glen, What pressures are your reguators set at? Clif If the flame is oxygen rich the carbon > burning up in the steel making CO2 gas will make the weld pop and bubble > up. > Gordon > ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 04:07:50 PM PST US From: shad bell Subject: Pietenpol-List: Flying the Chevy (NX92GB) Well she's still running good "knock knock". I flew down to Stewart Field in Waynesville Ohio today for the taildragger fly-in. It only took 1hr 15 min each way, and it is almost exsactly 100sm each way. Maby we should have put NR92GB, instead of NX ha ha ha. Thats an honnest 80mph. We have 16 hrs on the piet in the last 3 weeks. I saw Skipp Gadd there, he flew his 172 in on sat, looked like a good turn out but I got there just before "Go Home Time". This would be another good unofficial piet fly in in the future, no asphault, just dust and grass. Now all I have to do is start flight testing with weight in the front cockpit, Then I can stay out longer if I bring the wife along. Hope you all have a wonderfull Labor Day. Shad NX92GB --------------------------------- Looking for a deal? Find great prices on flights and hotels with Yahoo! FareChase. ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 04:13:52 PM PST US From: Jim Ash Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again Where is this car? I've had my eye out for a decent late-model body. Jim Ash -----Original Message----- >From: AMsafetyC@aol.com >Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:33 PM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again > >I located a corvair not too far from my home, I have to buy the entire car >for the engine, which is reported to be run able if it had carbs on it. > >The engine is a 95 hp and possibly a turbo, the sell thinks. Its a 1968 >Monza, so I am not expecting anything special. > >I am not certain I should be going after this one as a possible Piet power >plant since I know little about the best and worse of the corvair engines for >our applications. Can anyone give me any insight as to the use ability of this > engine design for my piet, naturally I am aware that I will have to >completely rebuild it and will be following the Wynn guide to do so. > >I just need a little advice form the collective knowledge base of corvair >builders and users. I still have not settled on a particular power plant so I >was interested in finding out more about this engine and its ability to be used > in my piet. > > >Thanks > >John Recine. > >Its never too soon to search for a power plant, so I have read! > > >http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 04:22:32 PM PST US From: Jim Ash Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again Been there. My '66 Ultravan came with a '61 distributor and the numbers on the rods were backwards (6-1 instead of 1-6), which I didn't find out until one of the rods shot through the crank cover. Jim -----Original Message----- >From: Panzera >Sent: Sep 2, 2007 3:37 PM >To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again > > >> >> Corvair engines for the later models (1965-1969) came in 95, 110, 140, and >> 180 hp, and further more subtle differences. 95's didn't come with turbos, >> only 180's, > >Although you are technically accurate, and by no means do I want to sound >disagreeable, but when a car has been available to "mechanics" for over 40 >years, there are no guarantee of matching equipment. > >The reality of it is, a 180 turbo induction system (including exhaust) will >bolt to any model head (long block), from and early 80hp up to late 180hp >9and it would run), excluding the 140; but I suppose that if one were to >bock off the second set of intake ports (carb base flanges) one could also >bolt a turbo to a 140 and it would also run. > >Not that anyone in their right mind would do this, and no telling how long >it would run before it detonates itself... but you never know. > >I wrote this a few years ago. It may help. > >http://www.angelfire.com/ca4/CorvAIRCRAFT/EngineID.htm > >Pat > > ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 04:55:19 PM PST US From: Ben Charvet Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache I don't remember his name, but he had a big beard. I didn't see him there last year. Ben Jim Ash wrote: > >Do you remember the instructor at Sun 'n Fun or what he looked like? > >Jim Ash > >-----Original Message----- > > >>From: Ben Charvet >>Sent: Sep 2, 2007 12:08 PM >>To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com >>Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache >> >> >>I'm not an expert welder, even though my life will some day depend on >>it, but my experience matches Walt's. I've seen most of my popping >>using the torch with the gas turned down too low. How much oxygen you >>use should be a relatively fixed ratio to give the proper flame shape. >>This a very important part of welding. I attended a welding workshop >>at Sun-N-Fun a few years ago, and the instructor spent 15 minutes >>showing me how to adjust the flame. Too much oxygen gives you a sharp >>pointed inner cone that puts too much oxygen in the weld and could cause >>your brittleness. If you haven't already, get a copy of the Finch >>(Robert or Richard) book on welding, and he gives a lot of good >>advice.I use the "0" tip for nearly everything on the Piet, unless the >>metal is close to 1/8 inch thick, like landing gear legs. I use a chart >>I picked up at a welding store that recommends tip sizes. >> >>Ben Charvet >> >> >> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 07:07:54 PM PST US Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Welding Headache From: "Glenn Thomas" This list is the best! Where else could you throw out a question to the world before bed and wake up almost expecting some kind of help. I took Dan Wilson's advice. With regulators at 7 lbs. I opened the acetylene wide open, then opened the oxygen wide open and backed down the pressure at the oxy regulator till I saw a nice neutral flame. Cone was clear and a little larger than I'd been seeing before and made nice puddles with no popping and able to weld straight through in one pass. I think with #2 tip it was a little too much heat so I'm going to take Walt's advice and go back down to the #0 tip. Thanks to everyone, I really enjoyed reading each suggestion and the remaining welds show that the advice from this list is fantastic. -------- Glenn Thomas N????? http://www.flyingwood.com Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=132432#132432 ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 07:25:35 PM PST US From: "KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP" Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power plant engines again Shad, Enjoyed meeting you and your father at Brodhead....Please email me a number where I can contact you for some deep corvair engine conversation. Ken H Fargo, ND shad bell wrote: John, Having rebuilt our corvair engine 2 1/2 times I can give a little bit of advise. Your best bet is to first get the wynne mannual, and the Finch corvair mannuals, and also the GM mannuals. Then locate a 1965-1969 non turbo engine. Wynne's mannual tells which ones to stay away from, DO YOUR RESEARCH, AND CHECK PART NUMBERS ON THE HEADS, THE EMISION FRIENDLY VERSIONS ARE HAZZARDOUS TO YOUR WELL BEING.. From experiance I recomend NOT using the 1964 engine. The heads and cylinders are different than the 65-69 engines, and 65-69 are interchangable. The 65-69 heads and cylinders are "beefier" than the 64. I would also recomend buying a set of jugs, and pistons (forged) from clarks corvair, You will have to have a head shop install the wrist pins in the piston and rod, unless you have a rod heater, it doesn't cost too much. We found out the hard way about making sure the heads are good. If you buy an engine make sure the sparkplug holes are clean and not helicoiled. We have 16hrs on the new engine and all is well. The head was the culprit that caused or contributed to a broken crankshaft after 60 hrs, and burned up the #4 piston 5 hrs after rebuilding with a nitrided crank. I am starting to get more comfortable with the corvair, as we had some major let downs, but they were all out of the ordinarry wierd problems we encountered. Feel free to e-mail me off list if you have any other questions. Shad --------------------------------- Sick sense of humor? Visit Yahoo! TV's Kenneth M. Heide, BA,CPO,FAAOP --------------------------------- Choose the right car based on your needs. Check out Yahoo! 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