Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:21 AM - Tundra tires (lshutks@webtv.net (Leon Stefan))
     2. 03:54 AM - Re: Tundra tires ()
     3. 06:18 AM - Fall flying in the Piet (Oscar Zuniga)
     4. 06:26 AM - homebuilt skis for the Piet (Oscar Zuniga)
     5. 10:05 AM - Re:  (Gordon Bowen)
     6. 10:07 AM - Re: homebuilt skis for the Piet do not archive ()
     7. 10:46 AM - Ash supply (Ryan Michals)
     8. 11:04 AM - Re: Ash supply (Jeff Boatright)
     9. 12:04 PM - Re: Ash supply (HelsperSew@aol.com)
    10. 12:06 PM - Re: Ash supply (HVandervoo@aol.com)
    11. 12:24 PM - Re: Ash supply (jimboyer@hughes.net)
    12. 12:30 PM - Re: Ash supply (jimboyer@hughes.net)
    13. 01:11 PM - center section wing tank (Brian Kraut)
    14. 01:45 PM - Re: center section wing tank (Phillips, Jack)
    15. 02:39 PM - Re: center section wing tank (Brian Kraut)
    16. 02:39 PM - Re: Ash supply (Catdesigns)
    17. 03:13 PM - Re: Re: Ash supply (Jeff Boatright)
    18. 04:26 PM - Re: Ash supply (Don Emch)
    19. 05:12 PM - Re: Re: Ash supply (Catdesigns)
    20. 06:39 PM - Re:  (Dick Navratil)
    21. 11:01 PM - Official Pietenpol-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) (Matt Dralle)
    22. 11:05 PM - Official Pietenpol-List Usage Guidelines (Matt Dralle)
 
 
 
Message 1
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      Harvey wrote: let us know how they (tundra tires) work out when you fly
      it.  Harvey, don't hold your breath. I am in my 9th year building and
      just finished wasting a whole summer in a relationship that didn't work
      out. That's a whole warm weather building season that I'll never get
      back. Leon s. in Ks. with a cold winter just ahead.
      
      
Message 2
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      Well as long as there's no chalk mark around ya it means yer still alive
      and if you can take nourishment then you can complete that aircraft.Keep
      at her and she won't fail you like some relationship,that I can
      guarantee ya.Get at her next season and enjoy.We look forward to hearing
      about your first flight.The Piet that I fly was started in 1977 and went
      through three owners,myself included. 
      
      -----Original Message-----
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Leon
      Stefan
      Sent: October 1, 2007 6:21 AM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: Tundra tires
      
      
      Harvey wrote: let us know how they (tundra tires) work out when you fly
      it.  Harvey, don't hold your breath. I am in my 9th year building and
      just finished wasting a whole summer in a relationship that didn't work
      out. That's a whole warm weather building season that I'll never get
      back. Leon s. in Ks. with a cold winter just ahead.
      
      
Message 3
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| Subject:  | Fall flying in the Piet | 
      
      
      One thing about living in south Texas is that winter is usually only a few 
      days long ;o)  As a matter of fact, some of you will remember that I ferried 
      41CC back home in January and it was great.  Of course a week later we had 
      one of the hardest ice storms that I've ever experienced here (power was out 
      in our neighborhood for several days), but soon after that it was flyable 
      again.  And I can really relate to the comments about being able to 
      appreciate the countryside much better from a low, slow, and open cockpit... 
      the smell of brush being burned, even barbeques from groups picnicking down 
      below.  And the farms, of course.
      
      Some very good flying is still coming up for me after the time changes this 
      month.  With an hour more daylight in the morning I can go to the airport 
      before work and get in a flight in the still morning air every morning if I 
      want to.  Rarely is the deck so low that I can't at least fly the pattern.  
      The smooth morning air will be the perfect time to do some careful analysis 
      of the stall speed of this airplane, something I've wanted to get documented 
      before experimenting with the Landshorter vortex generators.  I have a set 
      for the wings and a set for the underside of the horizontal stabilizer and 
      will test with one and then both.  And I may also try to put gap seals on 
      the elevator/horizontal stabilizer gap but probably won't fool with the 
      rudder gap.  See, it's about economics: my elevator and horizontal 
      stabilizer are both painted yellow and I have plenty of yellow paint to do 
      the gap seals with, but the rudder is several colors.  L-A-Z-Y....
      
      Oscar Zuniga
      NX41CC
      San Antonio, TX
      mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
      website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Gear up for Halo 3 with free downloads and an exclusive offer. 
      http://gethalo3gear.com?ocid=SeptemberWLHalo3_MSNHMTxt_1
      
      
Message 4
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | homebuilt skis for the Piet | 
      
      
      Don (and others interested in skis)-
      
      (Thanks to Michael Silvius for pointing me to this site), there is some 
      interesting information and construction details for homebuilt snow skis on 
      this page:
      
      http://planebuilder.topcities.com/skis.html
      
      These are for an ultralight and use children's snowboards, but you can use 
      full-size snowboards instead, depending on the type of snow you anticipate 
      operating off of.  Deeper, powderier snow will require full size snowboards.
      
      When we lived in Oregon I used to roam the pawn shops from time to time and 
      there was always a good variety of older skis and snowboards available for 
      cheap.  Teenagers don't like to be caught in public using last year's 
      equipment ;o)  Just find two boards the same size and configuration and 
      you're ready to start experimenting.
      
      Oscar Zuniga
      San Antonio, TX
      mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
      website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      
      _________________________________________________________________
      Test your celebrity IQ. Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great prizes! 
      http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2
      
      
Message 5
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  | 
      
      
      
      Dick,
      Didn't you a problems getting the spar varnish to stick to the epoxy 
      saturated wood?
      Gordon
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Dick Navratil 
        To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
        Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:06 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 
      
      
        I built mine that way and compared notes with several others at the 
      time.  Mine was about 2-3 lbs heavier.  I covered my fuse with a 2 oz. 
      layer of fiberglass cloth and used West System Epoxy, then applied Spar 
      varnish over that.  As I recall bare fuselage, fully finished was about 
      65 lbs.
        I would consider going with the wood thikness as on plans and where 
      you are adding wood to the rear, use 1/16" plywood.  Keep th weight donw 
      in the rear.
        Dick N.
          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: Marc Dumay 
          To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
          Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 6:11 PM
          Subject: Pietenpol-List: 
      
      
          Good day Gentleman & Ladies
      
           
      
          My build partner and I, are about to assemble the fuselage on our 
      Air Camper.
      
          Are there any, significant weight and build differences in using an 
      all plywood fuselage stained, instead of cloth, paint etc.? 
      
          Could someone with prior build experience, please elaborate on the 
      pros or cons.
      
          Is there some data available on the finished weight of a plywood 
      fuselage?
      
           
      
          Thank you
      
          Captain Marcus
      
          Chatham. On
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
      ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      
      
Message 6
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Re: homebuilt skis for the Piet do not archive | 
      
      
      In  the Great metropolis of Canadian, Texas there was an Air Camper that was built
      by a rancher in order to check his cattle during snow storms. I believe it
      was built in the 30's but may be wrong. He never put it on wheels, just skis.
      Then he taught himself to fly in it. Later he found out that he could take off
      and land on dry (and it is often dry in the Texas Panhandle) prairie grass.
      It was never on wheels. 
      
      I may be mistaken but I think it is in the Museum there in town. 
      
      So, all you need are skis.
      
      Blue Skies, Steve Dortch
      
      Do not archive
      
      ----- Original Message -----
      From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: homebuilt skis for the Piet
      
      > <taildrags@hotmail.com>
      > Don (and others interested in skis)-
      > 
      > (Thanks to Michael Silvius for pointing me to this site), there is 
      > some 
      > interesting information and construction details for homebuilt 
      > snow skis on 
      > this page:
      > 
      > http://planebuilder.topcities.com/skis.html
      > 
      > These are for an ultralight and use children's snowboards, but you 
      > can use 
      > full-size snowboards instead, depending on the type of snow you 
      > anticipate 
      > operating off of.  Deeper, powderier snow will require full size 
      > snowboards.
      > When we lived in Oregon I used to roam the pawn shops from time to 
      > time and 
      > there was always a good variety of older skis and snowboards 
      > available for 
      > cheap.  Teenagers don't like to be caught in public using last 
      > year's 
      > equipment ;o)  Just find two boards the same size and 
      > configuration and 
      > you're ready to start experimenting.
      > 
      > Oscar Zuniga
      > San Antonio, TX
      > mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
      > website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
      > 
      > _________________________________________________________________
      > Test your celebrity IQ. Play Red Carpet Reveal and earn great 
      > prizes! 
      > http://club.live.com/red_carpet_reveal.aspx?icid=redcarpet_hotmailtextlink2
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      > 
      
      
Message 7
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        Has anyone had trouble finding white ash? They tell me the beetles are destroying
      it all. Are there any alternatives?
      
      Ryan Michals
      NXxxxCC
      Clover Clipper
      
      *This message sent from a hand-held wireless device.
      
      
Message 8
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      I am in the market for some, too.
      
      At 1:45 PM -0400 10/1/07, Ryan Michals wrote:
      >
      >   Has anyone had trouble finding white ash? They tell me the beetles 
      >are destroying it all. Are there any alternatives?
      >
      >Ryan Michals
      >NXxxxCC
      >Clover Clipper
      >
      >*This message sent from a hand-held wireless device.
      
      -- 
      
      _____________________________________________________________
      Jeffrey H. Boatright, PhD
      Associate Professor, Emory Eye Center, Atlanta, GA, USA
      Senior Editor, Molecular Vision, http://www.molvis.org/molvis
      mailto:jboatri@emory.edu
      
      
Message 9
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      Guys,
      
      I bought white ash baseball bat blanks from Woodcraft.com, item #  125850.  
      3" x 3" x 40".  $24.95 ea.  
      
      Dan  Helsper
      Poplar Grove, IL.
      
      
Message 10
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      Try Rockler:
      
      _http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2475_ 
      (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2475) 
      
      Hans
      
      
Message 11
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      Try your local Woodcraft woodworking store. My local store is where I 
      got my ash. They have many different kinds of hardwood, primarily for 
      woodworkers but that is what Piet builders are as well. 
      Jim
      
      
Message 12
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      Woodcraft usually has ash planks that are 1" rough cut or 3/4" surfaced which could
      be laminated as well as the bat blanks. My local store has both.
      
      Jim
      
Message 13
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| Subject:  | center section wing tank | 
      
      I wanted to get a good sized tank in my wing center section since the 
      fuselage is already built and there is no tank in it.  by the shape of 
      the wing (GN-1) I figured that I can get about .62 gallons per linear 
      inch of tank between the spars.  That means that to get a 15 gallon tank 
      that it needs to be about 24" wide which is as wide as I can get it.
      
      The problem is that means only one rib on each side of the tank instead 
      of the normal four ribs in the center section that the GN-1 plans show.  
      I was thinking that I would run some 1/4" square stringers on the bottom 
      sheet of plywood to stiffen it up so that it will still hold the correct 
      undercambered shape.  I will also put steel angle brackets mounted to 
      the front and aft spar to support the weight of the tank.  On the top I 
      will do the plywood just in front of the forward spar and in back of the 
      rear spar with a big removable sheet aluminum cover so I can get the 
      tank out if I need to (or maybe just do all the plywood for now and I 
      can cut it out and make the aluminum cover later if the tank ever needs 
      to come out).
      
      Has anyone else done this before?  Anyone see any problems with this?  
      The center section will not be as strong as with the four evenly spaced 
      ribs, but I don't know that is really a problem since each corner is 
      braced by the jury struts and attached to the outer wing panels.
      
      Brian Kraut
      Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
      www.engalt.com 
      
      
Message 14
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | center section wing tank | 
      
      Brian, I made my centersection 6" wider than plans (Pietenpol, not
      Grega) to get a 15 gallon tank in the centersection.  I covered the
      bottom of the centersection with 1/4" plywood to hold the undercamber.
      I made two ribs out of aluminum channel to provide the airfoil shape on
      top of the tank, and supported the tank with 1" stainless steel straps
      hanging from the top of the spars.  Worked well
      
      
      Jack Phillips
      Raleigh, NC
      
        _____  
      
      From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
      Kraut
      Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 4:10 PM
      Subject: Pietenpol-List: center section wing tank
      
      
      I wanted to get a good sized tank in my wing center section since the
      fuselage is already built and there is no tank in it.  by the shape of
      the wing (GN-1) I figured that I can get about .62 gallons per linear
      inch of tank between the spars.  That means that to get a 15 gallon tank
      that it needs to be about 24" wide which is as wide as I can get it.
      
      The problem is that means only one rib on each side of the tank instead
      of the normal four ribs in the center section that the GN-1 plans show.
      I was thinking that I would run some 1/4" square stringers on the bottom
      sheet of plywood to stiffen it up so that it will still hold the correct
      undercambered shape.  I will also put steel angle brackets mounted to
      the front and aft spar to support the weight of the tank.  On the top I
      will do the plywood just in front of the forward spar and in back of the
      rear spar with a big removable sheet aluminum cover so I can get the
      tank out if I need to (or maybe just do all the plywood for now and I
      can cut it out and make the aluminum cover later if the tank ever needs
      to come out).
      
      Has anyone else done this before?  Anyone see any problems with this?
      The center section will not be as strong as with the four evenly spaced
      ribs, but I don't know that is really a problem since each corner is
      braced by the jury struts and attached to the outer wing panels.
      
      
      Brian Kraut
      Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
      www.engalt.com 
      
      	 
      
      
      _________________________________________________
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
      d, proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please 
      notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
      rohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
      orsk - Portuguese
      
Message 15
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| Subject:  | center section wing tank | 
      
      I really like the idea of the channel ribs.  I have a shrinker and stretcher
      so I can bend up some channel and get the perfect camber on the top sheet.
      I am thinking that I can just rivet the top aluminum skin to the channels.
      I was also thinking of the straps to hold the tank.  I thought of the steel
      banding material used to hold stuff to pallets and also of nylon web type
      material.
      
      I guess that you could also use the channel ribs on the bottom skin and
      epoxy it to the thin plywood, but I still think that stringers running span
      wise would also work good.  Since the tank would be flat on the bottom you
      would use 1/4" stringers near the center and much taller ones near the spars
      where there is not so much camber.  I have no intentions of supporting the
      tank at all with them.
      
      
      Brian Kraut
      Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
      www.engalt.com
      
        -----Original Message-----
        From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phillips,
      Jack
        Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 4:45 PM
        To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
        Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: center section wing tank
      
      
        Brian, I made my centersection 6" wider than plans (Pietenpol, not Grega)
      to get a 15 gallon tank in the centersection.  I covered the bottom of the
      centersection with 1/4" plywood to hold the undercamber.  I made two ribs
      out of aluminum channel to provide the airfoil shape on top of the tank, and
      supported the tank with 1" stainless steel straps hanging from the top of
      the spars.  Worked well
      
      
        Jack Phillips
        Raleigh, NC
      
      
      ----------------------------------------------------------------------------
      --
        From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
      [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Kraut
        Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 4:10 PM
        To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
        Subject: Pietenpol-List: center section wing tank
      
      
        I wanted to get a good sized tank in my wing center section since the
      fuselage is already built and there is no tank in it.  by the shape of the
      wing (GN-1) I figured that I can get about .62 gallons per linear inch of
      tank between the spars.  That means that to get a 15 gallon tank that it
      needs to be about 24" wide which is as wide as I can get it.
      
        The problem is that means only one rib on each side of the tank instead of
      the normal four ribs in the center section that the GN-1 plans show.  I was
      thinking that I would run some 1/4" square stringers on the bottom sheet of
      plywood to stiffen it up so that it will still hold the correct
      undercambered shape.  I will also put steel angle brackets mounted to the
      front and aft spar to support the weight of the tank.  On the top I will do
      the plywood just in front of the forward spar and in back of the rear spar
      with a big removable sheet aluminum cover so I can get the tank out if I
      need to (or maybe just do all the plywood for now and I can cut it out and
      make the aluminum cover later if the tank ever needs to come out).
      
        Has anyone else done this before?  Anyone see any problems with this?  The
      center section will not be as strong as with the four evenly spaced ribs,
      but I don't know that is really a problem since each corner is braced by the
      jury struts and attached to the outer wing panels.
      
        Brian Kraut
        Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
        www.engalt.com
      
      
      ">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      ics.com
      
      _________________________________________________
      
      This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
      privileged, proprietary
      or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please
      notify the sender
      immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is
      prohibited.
      
      Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands -
      Norsk - Portuguese
      
Message 16
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  | 
      
      
      
      
      I have attached a portion of Table 4-3b from the Forest Products Laboratorys Wood
      Handbook which list some properties for the different Ash species.
      
      This is a good resource for wood information and FREE to download so the price
      is right. It can be found at:
      
      http://www.fpl.fs.fed.us/documnts/fplgtr/fplgtr113/fplgtr113.htm
      
      I believe the Ash pieces in the floor are loaded in tension and compression from
      the wing struts and shear (perpendicular to the grain) from the landing gear.
      The big question is what is the important property to look at. Based on the
      pictures of Jeffs failed Ash cross brace, which appears to have failed in shear
      perpendicular to the grain, I think the Blue Ash looks like a good substitute.
      That said, probably the biggest contributor to the failure was the tapering
      of the ash piece from 1-inch to 3/4-inch causing a stress point.
      
      Chris
      
      --------
      Chris Tracy
      WestCoastPiet.com
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137499#137499
      
      
      Attachments: 
      
      http://forums.matronics.com//files/ash_148.jpg
      
      
Message 17
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      Chris,
      
      Thanks for the data and your thoughts. I agree - 
      the taper was the culprit (couldn't possibly be 
      the landing technique!  :)  ).
      
      The crack appears to have occurred due to the 
      landing gear/wing strut fitting rotating around 
      the longeron, with it's horizontal plate pushing 
      up into the bottom of the fuselage. The edge of 
      the plate neatly aligns with the taper when the 
      fitting rotates.
      
      However, I believe that the plans call for that 
      taper. Regardless, right now we're contemplating 
      either not tapering, which requires moving the 
      fitting bolts and associated holes upwards on the 
      side of the fuselage, further necessitating 
      changes, or adding a steel channel across the 
      underside, as per Grega plans. Or both.
      
      The Grega design, IMO, is better on this point.
      
      (Ducks, runs for exit...)
      
      Jeff
      
      PS: In case you're wondering, the fitting seems 
      to be completely undamaged, which I find amazing.
      
      
      >...
      >I believe the Ash pieces in the floor are loaded 
      >in tension and compression from the wing struts 
      >and shear (perpendicular to the grain) from the 
      >landing gear. The big question is what is the 
      >important property to look at. Based on the 
      >pictures of Jeff*s failed Ash cross brace, 
      >which appears to have failed in shear 
      >perpendicular to the grain, I think the Blue Ash 
      >looks like a good substitute.  That said, 
      >probably the biggest contributor to the failure 
      >was the tapering of the ash piece from 1-inch to 
      >3/4-inch causing a stress point.
      >
      >Chris
      >
      >--------
      >Chris Tracy
      >WestCoastPiet.com
      
      
Message 18
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      I got mine locally from this sawmill.
      
      http://www.bairdbros.com/
      
      They specialize in mouldings, but they also sell just the wood.  They let you pick
      or they will ship to you.  They have various thicknesses and high quality.
      If someone needed me to pick some out for them I could.
      
      Don Emch
      NX899DE
      
      
      Read this topic online here:
      
      http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=137514#137514
      
      
Message 19
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      Jeff,
      
      Yes the taper is on the plans and also on my plane.  After seeing your 
      broken cross brace I am wondering if I should just make it 3/4-inch the 
      whole way across.
      
      Chris Tracy
      Sacramento, Ca
      Website at http://www.WestCoastPiet.com
      
      ----- Original Message ----- 
      From: "Jeff Boatright" <jboatri@emory.edu>
      Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 3:12 PM
      Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Ash supply
      
      
      >
      > Chris,
      >
      > Thanks for the data and your thoughts. I agree - the taper was the culprit 
      > (couldn't possibly be the landing technique!  :)  ).
      >
      > The crack appears to have occurred due to the landing gear/wing strut 
      > fitting rotating around the longeron, with it's horizontal plate pushing 
      > up into the bottom of the fuselage. The edge of the plate neatly aligns 
      > with the taper when the fitting rotates.
      >
      > However, I believe that the plans call for that taper. Regardless, right 
      > now we're contemplating either not tapering, which requires moving the 
      > fitting bolts and associated holes upwards on the side of the fuselage, 
      > further necessitating changes, or adding a steel channel across the 
      > underside, as per Grega plans. Or both.
      >
      > The Grega design, IMO, is better on this point.
      >
      > (Ducks, runs for exit...)
      >
      > Jeff
      >
      > PS: In case you're wondering, the fitting seems to be completely 
      > undamaged, which I find amazing.
      >
      >
      >>...
      >>I believe the Ash pieces in the floor are loaded in tension and 
      >>compression from the wing struts and shear (perpendicular to the grain) 
      >>from the landing gear. The big question is what is the important property 
      >>to look at. Based on the pictures of Jeff*Ts failed Ash cross brace, 
      >>which appears to have failed in shear perpendicular to the grain, I think 
      >>the Blue Ash looks like a good substitute.  That said, probably the 
      >>biggest contributor to the failure was the tapering of the ash piece from 
      >>1-inch to 3/4-inch causing a stress point.
      >>
      >>Chris
      >>
      >>--------
      >>Chris Tracy
      >>WestCoastPiet.com
      >
      >
      > 
      
      
Message 20
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  | 
      
      
      
      No problems.  I had a good long chat with the tech rep from West system. 
       Secrect is to let the West epoxy fully cure for 10 days and sand with 
      220 grit paper lightly by hand, then apply varnish.
      Dick 
        ----- Original Message ----- 
        From: Gordon Bowen 
        To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
        Sent: Monday, October 01, 2007 12:05 PM
        Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 
      
      
        Dick,
        Didn't you a problems getting the spar varnish to stick to the epoxy 
      saturated wood?
        Gordon
          ----- Original Message ----- 
          From: Dick Navratil 
          To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
          Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 7:06 PM
          Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: 
      
      
          I built mine that way and compared notes with several others at the 
      time.  Mine was about 2-3 lbs heavier.  I covered my fuse with a 2 oz. 
      layer of fiberglass cloth and used West System Epoxy, then applied Spar 
      varnish over that.  As I recall bare fuselage, fully finished was about 
      65 lbs.
          I would consider going with the wood thikness as on plans and where 
      you are adding wood to the rear, use 1/16" plywood.  Keep th weight donw 
      in the rear.
          Dick N.
            ----- Original Message ----- 
            From: Marc Dumay 
            To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com 
            Sent: Sunday, September 30, 2007 6:11 PM
            Subject: Pietenpol-List: 
      
      
            Good day Gentleman & Ladies
      
             
      
            My build partner and I, are about to assemble the fuselage on our 
      Air Camper.
      
            Are there any, significant weight and build differences in using 
      an all plywood fuselage stained, instead of cloth, paint etc.? 
      
            Could someone with prior build experience, please elaborate on the 
      pros or cons.
      
            Is there some data available on the finished weight of a plywood 
      fuselage?
      
             
      
            Thank you
      
            Captain Marcus
      
            Chatham. On
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
      ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      
      
      href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
      ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
      href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
      
      
Message 21
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| Subject:  | Official Pietenpol-List FAQ (Frequently Asked Questions) | 
      
      
      Dear Listers,
      
      Please read over the Pietenpol-List Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ) below.  The
      complete Pietenpol-List FAQ including the Usage Guidelines can be found at the
      following URL:
      
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      Thank you,
      
      Matt Dralle
      Matronics Email List Administrator
      
      
      [ Note: This FAQ was designed to be displayed with a fixed width font such as
               Courier.  Proportional fonts will cause display formatting errors. ]
      
      
         This FAQ can also be viewed in HTML online at the following address:
         
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         * Pietenpol-Archive.digest.complete.zip 
      
                  - Same as the Pietenpol-Archive.digest.complete file above, but 
                    in PKZIP format.  Use "binary" data transfer methods.
      
         * Pietenpol-Archive.digest.complete.Z 
      
                  - Same as the Pietenpol-Archive.digest.complete file above, but in
      
                    UNIX compress format.  Use "binary" data transfer methods.
      
      
        Download Via FTP
        ----------------
      
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        Download Via Web
        ----------------
      
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      ******************************************************************************
                           Pietenpol-List Usage Guidelines
      ******************************************************************************
      
      The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the Pietenpol-List.
      You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
      Failure to use the Pietenpol-List in the manner described below may result 
      in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
      
      
      Pietenpol-List Policy Statement
      
      The purpose of the Pietenpol-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
      things related to this particular discussion group.  The List's goals
      are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
      high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
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      requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of 
      the List.  To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
      
      
       - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level.  Do not submit
         posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
         lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
      
       - THINK carefully before you write.  Ask yourself if your post will be
         relevant to everyone.  If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
      
       - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
         that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate.  Try to be concise and
         terse in your posts.  Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
         responses.
      
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         space in the archive.
      
       - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
         easily obtainable from other widely available sources.  Consult the
         web page or FAQ first.
      
       - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
         your response the same as that of the original post.  This makes it
         easy to find threads in the archive.
      
       - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
         response.  DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
         reader to the topic at hand, but be selective.  The impact that
         quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive 
         can not be overstated!
      
       - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
         then go ahead and reply to the List.  Be aware that clicking the
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         response to the original poster.  You might have to actively address
         your response with the original poster's email address.
      
       - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
         to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal.  "Way to go!", "I
         agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
         to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
      
       - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
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         contribute something valuable.
      
       - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
         polite and respectful.  Don't make snide comments, personally attack
         other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
         controversial issue.  This will only cause a pointless debate that
         will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
      
       - Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly 
         subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable.  Posts by 
         List members promoting their respective products or items for sale 
         should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble 
         a typical SPAM message.  The List isn't about commercialism, but 
         is about sharing information and knowledge.  This applies to 
         everyone, including those who provide products to the entire 
         community.  Informal presentation and moderation should be the 
         operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
      
      -------
      
      
      [This is an automated posting.]
      
      do not archive
      
      
Message 22
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  | 
      
      
| Subject:  | Official Pietenpol-List Usage Guidelines | 
      
      
      Dear Listers,
      
      Please read over the Pietenpol-List Usage Guidelines below.  The complete
      Pietenpol-List FAQ including these Usage Guidelines can be found at the
      following URL:
      
         http://www.matronics.com/FAQs/Pietenpol-List.FAQ.html
      
      Thank you,
      
      Matt Dralle
      Matronics Email List Administrator
      
      
      ******************************************************************************
                           Pietenpol-List Usage Guidelines
      ******************************************************************************
      
      The following details the official Usage Guidelines for the Pietenpol-List.
      You are encouraged to read it carefully, and to abide by the rules therein.
      Failure to use the Pietenpol-List in the manner described below may result 
      in the removal of the subscribers from the List.
      
      
      Pietenpol-List Policy Statement
      
      The purpose of the Pietenpol-List is to provide a forum of discussion for
      things related to this particular discussion group.  The List's goals
      are to serve as an information resource to its members; to deliver
      high-quality content; to provide moral support; to foster camaraderie
      among its members; and to support safe operation.  Reaching these goals 
      requires the participation and cooperation of each and every member of 
      the List.  To this end, the following guidelines have been established:
      
      
       - Please keep all posts related to the List at some level.  Do not submit
         posts concerning computer viruses, urban legends, random humor, long
         lost buddies' phone numbers, etc. etc.
      
       - THINK carefully before you write.  Ask yourself if your post will be
         relevant to everyone.  If you have to wonder about that, DON'T send it.
      
       - Remember that your post will be included for posterity in an archive
         that is growing in size at an extraordinary rate.  Try to be concise and
         terse in your posts.  Avoid overly wordy and lengthy posts and
         responses.
      
       - Keep your signature brief.  Please include your name, email address,
         aircraft type/tail number, and geographic location.  A short line
         about where you are in the building process is also nice.  Avoid
         bulky signatures with character graphics; they consume unnecessary
         space in the archive.
      
       - DON'T post requests to the List for information when that info is
         easily obtainable from other widely available sources.  Consult the
         web page or FAQ first.
      
       - If you want to respond to a post, DO keep the "Subject:" line of
         your response the same as that of the original post.  This makes it
         easy to find threads in the archive.
      
       - When responding, NEVER quote the *entire* original post in your
         response.  DO use lines from the original post to help "tune in" the
         reader to the topic at hand, but be selective.  The impact that
         quoting the entire original post has on the size of the archive 
         can not be overstated!
      
       - When the poster asks you to respond to him/her personally, DO NOT
         then go ahead and reply to the List.  Be aware that clicking the
         "reply" button on your mail package does not necessarily send your
         response to the original poster.  You might have to actively address
         your response with the original poster's email address.
      
       - DO NOT use the List to respond to a post unless you have something
         to add that is relevant and has a broad appeal.  "Way to go!", "I
         agree", and "Congratulations" are all responses that are better sent
         to the original poster directly, rather than to the List at large.
      
       - When responding to others' posts, avoid the feeling that you need to
         comment on every last point in their posts, unless you can truly
         contribute something valuable.
      
       - Feel free to disagree with other viewpoints, BUT keep your tone
         polite and respectful.  Don't make snide comments, personally attack
         other listers, or take the moral high ground on an obviously
         controversial issue.  This will only cause a pointless debate that
         will hurt feelings, waste bandwidth and resolve nothing.
      
       - Occassional posts by vendors or individuals who are regularyly 
         subscribed to a given List are considered acceptable.  Posts by 
         List members promoting their respective products or items for sale 
         should be of a friendly, informal nature, and should not resemble 
         a typical SPAM message.  The List isn't about commercialism, but 
         is about sharing information and knowledge.  This applies to 
         everyone, including those who provide products to the entire 
         community.  Informal presentation and moderation should be the 
         operatives with respect to advertising on the Lists.
      
      -------
      
      
      [This is an automated posting.]
      
      do not archive
      
      
 
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