Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:24 AM - Re: A 65 exhaust (Gene & Tammy)
2. 06:51 AM - Re: NX92GB Still runnin good "Knock Knock" (John Egan)
3. 07:04 AM - strut attach point (Gardiner Mason)
4. 07:23 AM - Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it? (jimd)
5. 08:42 AM - Re: Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it? (DJ Vegh)
6. 09:05 AM - Re: Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it? (Brian Kraut)
7. 10:30 AM - Re: Leading Edge spar ..go to your local lumber yard (shad bell)
8. 10:42 AM - Post Mortem - Matronics List Pummeled By Spam... (Matt Dralle)
9. 02:06 PM - Re: A 65 exhaust (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
10. 05:30 PM - Re: Leading Edge spar ..go to your local lumber yard (jimd)
11. 09:44 PM - Corvair College #11 (Darrel Jones)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: A 65 exhaust |
Steve,
Finally finished up my exhaust. Went with 18" straight stacks for the back
and 161/2" for the front cylinders. Used stainless pipe from ACS and heat
muffs (put one on each side) from Wicks. They look and sounds great. I had
contacted robbinswings and he told me they don't make muffs for 11/2'
exhaust so I went with Wicks.
Gene
N502R
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: NX92GB Still runnin good "Knock Knock" |
Shad,
Thank you for your continued reports regarding your Piet. People on this list
such as yourself who share the difficulties as well as the successes are those
who generate drive for me. Keep up the good work, congratulations on your progress,
and Thank you. See you at Brodhead.
John (found a good shop to tap the crankshaft) Egan
Greenville, WI
----- Original Message ----
From: shad bell <aviatorbell@yahoo.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 1:07:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: NX92GB Still runnin good "Knock Knock"
Hello guys, stil flying the piet, although much more bundled up. Flew for about
an hour today with temps about 45-50 degrees. It climbs like a bat out of hell
but I'm a lot colder than Hell, ( must be because I'm climbing closer to Heaven).
I am pretty comfortable with long johns, and a warm ski mask and heavy
gloves for 40 min or so, then my feet go numb. I found a few deer hunters out
in the woods today, easy to spot with the trees bare of leaves. So far I have
put about 30-35 hrs on her since august, and dad with 10 or so more. I think
we finnaly got our Corvair figured out. Hopefully the weather holds out
and we will be flying to Brodhead this next year. For all you Corvair builders
don't be discouraged from our experiance, 2 complete engines for under $3000
ain't too bad( try that with a Continental), just make sure you use 1965 and
later engines and a good reputable shop for your machine work. Looking
__________________________________________________
Message 3
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| Subject: | strut attach point |
OK guys, another question from the integrity nut. I have the 36"
center section, and I want to know the correct attach point for my wing
struts. Right now I put them as per plans with the regular center
section. By using the 36" section does that automatically place them at
the correct position? Also, where to put the jury struts? Gardiner Mason
Message 4
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| Subject: | Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it? |
I have leading edges that need wood spars with the wings airfoil shape. How do
you guys create a spar with the shape you need, at a reasonable cost, in a reasonable
amount of time?
Not being much of a woodworker, each idea I have had seems problematic;
Router; have one, never used it. Could try to make a jig to make repeated cuts
to approximate shape of airfoil. Getting something that would hold the position
precisely, in many different positions seems dicey.
Spar is about 3 inches wide, so no way my router could do it in less than 3-4 passes,
and getting profile right would be tough, don't think it would match any
normal router bits exactly.
Shaper; there are companies that make custom shaper cutters that would make one
for that shape. Very expensive and I don't have a shaper.
CNC; companies will make about anything you want if you provide info. Only need
two spars and would rather do it self somehow.
Don't do it as one big piece.. thought about putting plywood airfoil shaped pieces
on each rib, with about a one inch square opening for a piece of wood, then
I could use longeron stock. Would end up lighter, could do with jigsaw and files.
However it wouldn't provide much support to the leading edge skin as it
would only make contact at each rib.
This is for a GN-1 Biplane, which confuses the issue a little. The top wings are
complete, they have a .026 aluminum wrapped leading edge with a square 1" spar
that touches the leading edge in two spots the full length of the wings. (The
square part is along the very front of each rib) so it provides some support.)
The lower wing is what needs the spars, and then to be skinned with something.
My plans show a single piece of wood shaped to match the airfoil profile, attached
via flat head machine screws/bolts, at each rib.
There is no indication of wood or aluminum for leading edge skin. Since my top
wings have aluminum, and I am comfortable working with it I was leaning toward
skinning it with aluminum.
Preference would be to follow plans, which would be to make up an airfoil shaped
spar. How did you guys do this?
I have a picture (not my plane, but same exact kind of shaped piece) as an example
of what I think I need.
Any help would be appreciated.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145066#145066
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/leadingedge_389.jpg
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it? |
this is something you can do like they did in the "old days" I would do it
by hand with a large jack plane. Keep the knife sharp and it'll shave off
Spruce like butter. Just get the profile close with the plane and then make
yourself a 16" sanding block with something like 80 grit to round it off and
then some 150 grit by hand.
Just keep the knife sharp! and don't cut into the grain.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "jimd" <jlducey@hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 8:23 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it?
>
> I have leading edges that need wood spars with the wings airfoil shape.
> How do you guys create a spar with the shape you need, at a reasonable
> cost, in a reasonable amount of time?
>
> Not being much of a woodworker, each idea I have had seems problematic;
>
> Router; have one, never used it. Could try to make a jig to make repeated
> cuts to approximate shape of airfoil. Getting something that would hold
> the position precisely, in many different positions seems dicey.
> Spar is about 3 inches wide, so no way my router could do it in less than
> 3-4 passes, and getting profile right would be tough, don't think it would
> match any normal router bits exactly.
>
> Shaper; there are companies that make custom shaper cutters that would
> make one for that shape. Very expensive and I don't have a shaper.
>
> CNC; companies will make about anything you want if you provide info. Only
> need two spars and would rather do it self somehow.
>
> Don't do it as one big piece.. thought about putting plywood airfoil
> shaped pieces on each rib, with about a one inch square opening for a
> piece of wood, then I could use longeron stock. Would end up lighter,
> could do with jigsaw and files. However it wouldn't provide much support
> to the leading edge skin as it would only make contact at each rib.
>
> This is for a GN-1 Biplane, which confuses the issue a little. The top
> wings are complete, they have a .026 aluminum wrapped leading edge with a
> square 1" spar that touches the leading edge in two spots the full length
> of the wings. (The square part is along the very front of each rib) so it
> provides some support.)
>
> The lower wing is what needs the spars, and then to be skinned with
> something. My plans show a single piece of wood shaped to match the
> airfoil profile, attached via flat head machine screws/bolts, at each rib.
> There is no indication of wood or aluminum for leading edge skin. Since my
> top wings have aluminum, and I am comfortable working with it I was
> leaning toward skinning it with aluminum.
>
> Preference would be to follow plans, which would be to make up an airfoil
> shaped spar. How did you guys do this?
>
> I have a picture (not my plane, but same exact kind of shaped piece) as an
> example of what I think I need.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Jim
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145066#145066
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/leadingedge_389.jpg
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it? |
Several cuts on a table saw with the blade at various angles or different
router bits on a router table should also be able to get it close.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of DJ Vegh
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it?
this is something you can do like they did in the "old days" I would do it
by hand with a large jack plane. Keep the knife sharp and it'll shave off
Spruce like butter. Just get the profile close with the plane and then make
yourself a 16" sanding block with something like 80 grit to round it off and
then some 150 grit by hand.
Just keep the knife sharp! and don't cut into the grain.
DJ
----- Original Message -----
From: "jimd" <jlducey@hotmail.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 11, 2007 8:23 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Leading Edge spar .. how do you shape it?
>
> I have leading edges that need wood spars with the wings airfoil shape.
> How do you guys create a spar with the shape you need, at a reasonable
> cost, in a reasonable amount of time?
>
> Not being much of a woodworker, each idea I have had seems problematic;
>
> Router; have one, never used it. Could try to make a jig to make repeated
> cuts to approximate shape of airfoil. Getting something that would hold
> the position precisely, in many different positions seems dicey.
> Spar is about 3 inches wide, so no way my router could do it in less than
> 3-4 passes, and getting profile right would be tough, don't think it would
> match any normal router bits exactly.
>
> Shaper; there are companies that make custom shaper cutters that would
> make one for that shape. Very expensive and I don't have a shaper.
>
> CNC; companies will make about anything you want if you provide info. Only
> need two spars and would rather do it self somehow.
>
> Don't do it as one big piece.. thought about putting plywood airfoil
> shaped pieces on each rib, with about a one inch square opening for a
> piece of wood, then I could use longeron stock. Would end up lighter,
> could do with jigsaw and files. However it wouldn't provide much support
> to the leading edge skin as it would only make contact at each rib.
>
> This is for a GN-1 Biplane, which confuses the issue a little. The top
> wings are complete, they have a .026 aluminum wrapped leading edge with a
> square 1" spar that touches the leading edge in two spots the full length
> of the wings. (The square part is along the very front of each rib) so it
> provides some support.)
>
> The lower wing is what needs the spars, and then to be skinned with
> something. My plans show a single piece of wood shaped to match the
> airfoil profile, attached via flat head machine screws/bolts, at each rib.
> There is no indication of wood or aluminum for leading edge skin. Since my
> top wings have aluminum, and I am comfortable working with it I was
> leaning toward skinning it with aluminum.
>
> Preference would be to follow plans, which would be to make up an airfoil
> shaped spar. How did you guys do this?
>
> I have a picture (not my plane, but same exact kind of shaped piece) as an
> example of what I think I need.
>
> Any help would be appreciated.
>
> Jim
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145066#145066
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/leadingedge_389.jpg
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Leading Edge spar ..go to your local lumber yard |
One easy and cheap way to make the leading edges for the piet is to buy a piece
of 3/4 round hand rail (like used on a staircase, with one short edge side on
bottom) , then rip it at the widest part to fit your ribs, and use glue and
small "pocket screws" wich means couter bore them and put a plug back in to fill
the resulting hole. The glue is what holds it togeather, the screws just
make it easy to clamp and hold in place. Remember to try to buy the lightest
species of wood you can, the leading edge is not a main structural member, but
yes it does stiffin up the leading edge consiterably. The nice part of the hand
rail is there is a nice very smooth curve with out hours of sanding, planing,
or expensive router bits.
Shad Bell
NX92GB
__________________________________________________
Message 8
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| Subject: | Post Mortem - Matronics List Pummeled By Spam... |
Dear Listers,
Over a 3-day period, Thursday 11/8 though Saturday 11/10, the Matronics Lists were
pummeled with over 450,000 spam emails causing posting delays and a few duplicate
messages. Yeah, I really said nearly half a million spams! The good
news is that I don't believe a single one of them actually made it to the Lists
thanks to the aggressive List filtering code and the Barracuda spam filter.
The bad news was that it caused quite a back log of email messages starting Friday
and continuing until late Saturday when I noticed that delivery seemed a bit
sluggish. By about 11pm on Saturday night, I had managed to get the backlog
cleared out of the spam filter by temporarily adjusting some of the filtering.
A check of the queues this morning, and everything looks like its working great
and there are no incoming filtering delays and spam levels appear to be back
to "normal".
There were a number of people asking what was going on, so I thought that I'd send
out a follow up post mortem on the event...
November is the annual List Fund Raiser. Your contribution directly enables me
to buy systems like the Barracuda spam filter that keep the List free of that
garbage. Please make a contribution to support your Lists!
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Thank you!
Matt Dralle
Matronics Email List Administrator
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: A 65 exhaust |
Gene,
Can you post some photos...
Ken
Gene & Tammy <zharvey@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Steve,
Finally finished up my exhaust. Went with 18" straight stacks for the back
and 161/2" for the front cylinders. Used stainless pipe from ACS and heat
muffs (put one on each side) from Wicks. They look and sounds great. I had
contacted robbinswings and he told me they don't make muffs for 11/2'
exhaust so I went with Wicks.
Gene
N502R
Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
__________________________________________________
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Leading Edge spar ..go to your local lumber yard |
That is probably what I will do. Looked at some of the profiles for hand rails,
and it looks like there are some douglas fir ones that are almost 4" wide, have
about the right shape and come in 12 foot lengths. Ripped in the right way
it would be pretty close, could get it the rest the way with a belt sander or
plane and sandpaper.
Thanks, I had been think about bannister railing, but they were way off on profile,
and shorter.
JimD
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=145236#145236
Message 11
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| Subject: | Corvair College #11 |
A big thanks to William Wynne, Michael Heintz, Lori, Doug and all the
rest of the nice folks from Quality Sports Planes at Cloverdale airport
in Cloverdale, California and FlyCorvair from rainy old Florida for
putting on another excellent weekend event full of education,
encouragement and good companionship.
I missed the Friday workshop because of work, but Saturday when I
arrived I found Michael's hangar full of Zenith aircraft and tables full
of Corvair engines in various states of dress and undress.
I've been to the Corvair College in Hanford hosted by Pat Panzerra, and
was able to get a lot of great engine conversion application information
and encouragement both times. William had his latest developments on
hand for us to see and fondle, including his new oil system components,
hub and distributor. Also available was the new Corvair engine
installation manual for the Zodiac CH 601 XL kit plane. After looking
through it, I bought one even though I am putting the Corvair back in a
Pietenpol variant called the Pfeifer Sport because the manual had a lot
of great firewall-forward information for the Corvair engine.
I was also able to hook up with Jim Boyer, whom I had met at Hanford and
who lives about twenty miles away. Jim is putting together a group of
crankshafts to be nitrated at a local shop that will remain nameless to
protect the innocent. I also met with Mike from the Sacramento area and
we stopped by Jim's house on the way home and looked at his beautiful
Piet project coming right along. We also talked about an informal
Pietenpol/Corvaircraft get together in Sonoma, CA for the people in the
area. Walt Bowe has his incredible Model A powered Piet back in the air
after an engine rebuild and has it based at Sonoma Skypark Airport.
I was able to visit with William, who is a great story teller, and we
compared the relative humidity of Florida to that of California, since
it rained all day Saturday Sunday showed bright and sunny though, and
Michael spent the morning hopping rides in the demo Corvair powered 601
while William did more demonstrations and everyone visited. I finally
met Woody Harris of Vacaville, who is building a Corvair powered 601,
and am looking forward to getting over to his hangar to see his progress.
All in all, a great weekend. I met a lot of great people and had a ball!
I'll sleep well tonight, and maybe get busy on the Corvair engine again.
Check out the Quality Sport Planes website at
http://www.qualitysportplanes.com/
Darrel Jones
Pfeifer Sport Ser. # 2
Sonoma, CA
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