Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:28 AM - Engine pre-heat (Gene & Tammy)
2. 05:48 AM - Re: Engine pre-heat (del magsam)
3. 06:39 AM - Re: Engine pre-heat (Richard Schreiber)
4. 06:52 AM - Re: Engine pre-heat (Gene & Tammy)
5. 07:24 AM - Re: Mystery (dlbenham)
6. 08:21 AM - Re: Mystery (Arden Adamson)
7. 09:02 AM - streamline strut fairings (Oscar Zuniga)
8. 11:50 AM - Re: Mystery (DJ Vegh)
9. 12:54 PM - Re: Engine pre-heat (AzevedoFlyer@aol.com)
10. 05:11 PM - Turtle deck bulkhead (Ryan Michals)
11. 05:52 PM - Re recent building questions (Graham & Robin Hewitt)
12. 07:55 PM - Re: Turtle deck bulkhead (jimboyer@hughes.net)
Message 1
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Now that it's getting down to freezing at night I'm wondering what the
rest of you are using for an engine pre-heater? My airport manager has
a fit if I use my gas fed pre-heater so I'm starting to look around for
a simple electric one. Something I could leave on over night so I can
make my early morning flights that I live for.
Cold weather flying rules!
Gene
N502R
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Engine pre-heat |
attach a metal snout to a milkhouse or similar electric heater, put a handle on
top that you can hang from the prop and stick the snout into the oil cooler hole
under the prop, and put an old sleeping bag over the whole thing to direct
(recirculate) the exit air from the cowl back into the heater. takes about 1/2
hr to heat it up.
Del
Gene & Tammy <zharvey@bellsouth.net> wrote: Now that it's getting down
to freezing at night I'm wondering what the rest of you are using for an engine
pre-heater? My airport manager has a fit if I use my gas fed pre-heater so
I'm starting to look around for a simple electric one. Something I could leave
on over night so I can make my early morning flights that I live for.
Cold weather flying rules!
Gene
N502R
Del-New Richmond, Wi
"farmerdel@rocketmail.com"
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Message 3
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Gene,
I used to use the heating element out of an old electric clothes drier with flexible
aluminum ducting, then I went to a small space heater. Now I use a couple
of cheap hand held hair driers that I got from Wal-Mart. I got this tip from
my hanger mate who has a glasAir. I think they are 1800 watts and propably cost
about $9 each. I cover the cowl with and old blanket to keep the heat in. The
hair driers are on a timer, so if I plan on going flying in the morning, I
just plug them in the night before. I let them run for about 1 to 1.5 hours depending
on the outside temps.
Rick
N5936D
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene & Tammy
Sent: 11/17/2007 7:32:07 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Engine pre-heat
Now that it's getting down to freezing at night I'm wondering what the rest of
you are using for an engine pre-heater? My airport manager has a fit if I use
my gas fed pre-heater so I'm starting to look around for a simple electric one.
Something I could leave on over night so I can make my early morning flights
that I live for.
Cold weather flying rules!
Gene
N502R
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Engine pre-heat |
Del, thanks for the info. I had considered using a heat gun attached to
a dryer vent metal hose but not sure the heat gun would last. Won't
take much more to make a shroud for a milkhouse heater.
Thanks
Gene
:
Message 5
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Hi to the group again:
Since the GN-1 plans are not available does anyone on the list have a
set used or unused, or know of anyone who might have a set they would
loan or sell?
Thanks
Dallas L. Benham
Message 6
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I have a set to sell. call me at home 715-258-4238
Arden Adamson
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com on behalf of dlbenham
Sent: Sat 11/17/2007 9:21 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Mystery
Hi to the group again:
Since the GN-1 plans are not available does anyone on the list have a
set used or unused, or know of anyone who might have a set they would
loan or sell?
Thanks
Dallas L. Benham
Message 7
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| Subject: | streamline strut fairings |
If you have square or round tubes that you want to streamline, there is an inexpensive way... the ultralight guys use extruded plastic slip-on streamline fairings that would work and be a lot less trouble than shaping blocks of balsa. You can see them at http://www.ultralightnews.ca/streamlinedfairings/1.html for example, but I wouldn't get them from that website necessarily. I think Carlson Aircraft ("Skytek") sells them.
A higher-cost alternative are the slip-on aluminum extrusions that fit over square
tubing, also from Carlson, but then you essentially double your weight because
the aluminum struts are structurally adequate themselves.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 8
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for GN-1 plans please reply to me off list at
dj (at) veghdesign.com
I may be able to help
----- Original Message -----
From: dlbenham
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, November 17, 2007 8:21 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Mystery
Hi to the group again:
Since the GN-1 plans are not available does anyone on the list have a
set used or unused, or know of anyone who might have a set they would
loan or sell?
Thanks
Dallas L. Benham
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Engine pre-heat |
Gene,
I use a small ceramic space heater with a fan. A $12 - $15 job bought at
Lowe's.
What I do differently is to hang it on the cowling cooling inlet. The
proverbial blanket goes on top.
Thus, in my case, the hot air stream flows the opposite of many
recommendations. Top to bottom. Most heat from the bottom thinking warm air waft
upwards,
right? Well, if the engine is stone cold, heating it from top will cool the
warm air and it will naturally sink.This pulls in the warm air which gets
cold etc.
Unless you have a powerful blow, heating from bellow the air gets cold in
contact with metal and sinks back against the incoming stream. Think about it.
I
get my O-320 warm to the touch in 20 minutes or so, about the time for a
thorough check of the old bird.
Cheers,
Miguel
Message 10
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| Subject: | Turtle deck bulkhead |
What is the general consensus on the turtle deck bulkhead, aft of the cross strut
or forward of the cross strut and flush with the pilots seat back? It looks
like the "last original's" turtle deck bulk head is aft of the cross strut although
I see other have decided to do it differently.
Ryan Michaels
---------------------------------
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re recent building questions |
Hi all
here are some views on recent building questions.
Re gluing ply sides on fuse, strongly recommend leaving these off till
the very last; also leave off the firewall ply.
Suggest screwing on a dummy bulkhead, in fact if you make this very
square & accurate it will keep everything square up front while gluing
sides together.
I have had a strong recommendation not to cover any structure with
either ply or fabric until the A/c is assembled, rigged, fuel is in tank
& you are ready to fly.
This will enable you to check all control runs, bracing cables
electrical wiring, even a check for fuel leaks under tanks & plumbing
etc.
You may find that some adjusting or modifying is reqd in order to clear
structure from something that moves, this essential step could be very
difficult if the structure is covered.
Then dismantle,glue on sides & fire wall, cover, & paint.
Re questions on gluing on ribs to spars,suggest making an accurate
template out of ply or wood to the exact inside measurement of the rib
verticals.
Lightly sand the spar until the template slides on with slight friction,
Slide on ribs to within =BD inch of final position, coat spar with glue
then move rib to correct position, if you use a liquid type of glue like
West Systems 105 you can wick in more glue.
Some questions re alignment of tail structure, suggest having an
accurate centre line on all members; make sure that all is in line; glue
then taper after it is set.
If you find the routed Tee beams difficult then consider making them out
of two pieces glued together.
I found that the diagonal beam on the tail plane fouled the nut on the
outer elevator hinge, I had to relocate the beam to clear this nut by
moving it at the tip end.
I am just over half way with my Piet & have asked a thousand questions
of others.
I have leaned on Peter Johnson=92s Web heavily & have followed his steps
closely, it really is just fantastic see HYPERLINK
"http://www.cpc-world.com/"www.cpc-world.com
Cheers & Good Luck
Graham Hewitt the 79 year old ex DC3 driver
17/11/2007 2:55 PM
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Turtle deck bulkhead |
Hi Ryan,
I put mine behind the cross brace as it gives another inch of room. If you sit
in the fuselage you will see the instrument panel is close and every little bit
of room helps I think.
Cheers, Jim
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