Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:37 AM - starting the warm A65 (Oscar Zuniga)
2. 06:06 AM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Steve Ruse)
3. 06:08 AM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Phillips, Jack)
4. 06:15 AM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Phillips, Jack)
5. 06:32 AM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Dave and Connie)
6. 07:37 AM - starting the warm A65 (Oscar Zuniga)
7. 07:54 AM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Brian Kraut)
8. 08:43 AM - starting the warm A65 (Oscar Zuniga)
9. 08:44 AM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Phillips, Jack)
10. 08:50 AM - elevator control question (Tim Willis)
11. 01:07 PM - Re: starting the warm A65 (walt evans)
12. 03:43 PM - Andy's Airplanes (Tim Verthein)
13. 04:18 PM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Ben Charvet)
14. 04:34 PM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Gene & Tammy)
15. 04:42 PM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Gene & Tammy)
16. 05:27 PM - Re: Engine pre-heat (Gene & Tammy)
17. 06:42 PM - drips from the breather (Oscar Zuniga)
18. 06:55 PM - Re: drips from the breather (Ben Charvet)
19. 07:18 PM - Re: drips from the breather (Brian Kraut)
20. 08:01 PM - Re: starting the warm A65 (Don Emch)
21. 08:04 PM - Re: drips from the breather (Don Emch)
22. 09:02 PM - Re: Engine pre-heat (Dick Navratil)
Message 1
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Subject: | starting the warm A65 |
I do have a question for you folks who fly the A65. I have noticed that ju
st about every time I get fuel, I have a bit of difficulty starting the eng
ine when I'm ready to pull away from the pump. I have a 10 min. flight fro
m our field (which has no fuel) and Castroville, which means the engine is
always fully warmed up when I stop for fuel.
I use the same procedure for starting it warm after fueling as I do when co
ld, except no flipping the prop with the mags off to "prime" it. Almost in
variably, after a half-dozen unsuccessful flips I end up having to open the
throttle fully, shut off the fuel and mags, and pull the prop through back
wards to clear the intake of excess fuel. Then with fuel valve still shut
off and throttle cracked, I can usually get the engine to start and I run a
round to open the fuel valve, but sometimes I end up having to do this two
or three times. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
PS- I noticed drops of moisture dripping from my crankcase breather when I
landed for fuel, too. Not sure what's up with that...Oscar ZunigaSan Anton
io, TXmailto: taildrags@hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | Re: starting the warm A65 |
Oscar,
I'm not sure what might help with your problem, but there should be a
fix out there. My A-75 starts easiest when warm. No priming or
anything. Just crack the throttle, and generally with one flip it
will fire right up within 30 minutes of shutting down. It virtually
never takes more than two flips getting it started when warm. I have
dual impulse mags (Slick).
Hope you get it figured out, and let us know the solution when you do.
Check the Taylorcraft and Aeronca forums too, they have a LOT of
guys using small Continentals. I'm sure there is an answer there.
Steve
Quoting Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>:
>
> I do have a question for you folks who fly the A65. I have noticed
> that just about every time I get fuel, I have a bit of difficulty
> starting the engine when I'm ready to pull away from the pump. I
> have a 10 min. flight from our field (which has no fuel) and
> Castroville, which means the engine is always fully warmed up when I
> stop for fuel.
>
> I use the same procedure for starting it warm after fueling as I do
> when cold, except no flipping the prop with the mags off to "prime"
> it. Almost invariably, after a half-dozen unsuccessful flips I end
> up having to open the throttle fully, shut off the fuel and mags,
> and pull the prop through backwards to clear the intake of excess
> fuel. Then with fuel valve still shut off and throttle cracked, I
> can usually get the engine to start and I run around to open the
> fuel valve, but sometimes I end up having to do this two or three
> times. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
>
> PS- I noticed drops of moisture dripping from my crankcase breather
> when I landed for fuel, too. Not sure what's up with that...Oscar
> ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags@hotmail.comwebsite at
> http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | starting the warm A65 |
Hi Oscar,
Sounds like it's flooding pretty easily when warm. I don't have that
problem - mine will usually start on the first balde when warm. One
thing you could try when you are flying into Castroville for fuel, shut
off the engine there by shutting off the fuel line. That way, it can't
load up so easily when you start it. Of course, you'll need to turn the
fuel on again before starting it, but that shouldn't be a problem.
While my Piet starts easily when warm (and fairly easily when cold,
using primer), the J-3 I owned years ago would flood easily when warm.
I always had to get a really good pull on the prop (try to get two
blades to go through). If it started - great. If not, it would almost
always flood, and then I would have to do the same routine you
described. It may depend on your mag timing. I've got the mags timed
at 32 degrees BTDC on my A65 (manual says 30 for A65, 32 for A75)
because I find I get about an extra 50 rpm on takeoff at that setting,
but it means you've got to swing the prop harder to start it (I almost
always have to start my plane myself - many people will offer to prop
it, but they rarely spin it hard enough to start it). If you can stand
the loss in power, backing the timing off to 28 degrees BTDC might make
it a little easier to start.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 8:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
I do have a question for you folks who fly the A65. I have noticed that
just about every time I get fuel, I have a bit of difficulty starting
the engine when I'm ready to pull away from the pump. I have a 10 min.
flight from our field (which has no fuel) and Castroville, which means
the engine is always fully warmed up when I stop for fuel.
I use the same procedure for starting it warm after fueling as I do when
cold, except no flipping the prop with the mags off to "prime" it.
Almost invariably, after a half-dozen unsuccessful flips I end up having
to open the throttle fully, shut off the fuel and mags, and pull the
prop through backwards to clear the intake of excess fuel. Then with
fuel valve still shut off and throttle cracked, I can usually get the
engine to start and I run around to open the fuel valve, but sometimes I
end up having to do this two or three times. Any idea what I'm doing
wrong?
PS- I noticed drops of moisture dripping from my crankcase breather when
I landed for fuel, too. Not sure what's up with that...
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | starting the warm A65 |
Another good site for info is Harry Fenton's Engine page on the Fly Baby
website. Harry worked for Slick Magnetos for years and knows more about
small Continentals than anyone else I know. His website makes for great
reading: http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/engines.htm
Jack Phillips
Raleigh, NC
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve
Ruse
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 9:04 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
<steve@wotelectronics.com>
Oscar,
I'm not sure what might help with your problem, but there should be a
fix out there. My A-75 starts easiest when warm. No priming or
anything. Just crack the throttle, and generally with one flip it
will fire right up within 30 minutes of shutting down. It virtually
never takes more than two flips getting it started when warm. I have
dual impulse mags (Slick).
Hope you get it figured out, and let us know the solution when you do.
Check the Taylorcraft and Aeronca forums too, they have a LOT of
guys using small Continentals. I'm sure there is an answer there.
Steve
Quoting Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>:
>
> I do have a question for you folks who fly the A65. I have noticed
> that just about every time I get fuel, I have a bit of difficulty
> starting the engine when I'm ready to pull away from the pump. I
> have a 10 min. flight from our field (which has no fuel) and
> Castroville, which means the engine is always fully warmed up when I
> stop for fuel.
>
> I use the same procedure for starting it warm after fueling as I do
> when cold, except no flipping the prop with the mags off to "prime"
> it. Almost invariably, after a half-dozen unsuccessful flips I end
> up having to open the throttle fully, shut off the fuel and mags,
> and pull the prop through backwards to clear the intake of excess
> fuel. Then with fuel valve still shut off and throttle cracked, I
> can usually get the engine to start and I run around to open the
> fuel valve, but sometimes I end up having to do this two or three
> times. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
>
> PS- I noticed drops of moisture dripping from my crankcase breather
> when I landed for fuel, too. Not sure what's up with that...Oscar
> ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags@hotmail.comwebsite at
> http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify
the sender
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk
- Portuguese
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Subject: | Re: starting the warm A65 |
I had the same problem with the Taylorcraft. What cured it for me was to
slightly crack the thottle and start with the impulse mag only instead of
both mags. That retarded the spark a bit and made for an easier start.
Dave
At 08:37 AM 11/19/2007, you wrote:
>I do have a question for you folks who fly the A65. I have noticed that
>just about every time I get fuel, I have a bit of difficulty starting the
>engine when I'm ready to pull away from the pump. I have a 10 min. flight
>from our field (which has no fuel) and Castroville, which means the engine
>is always fully warmed up when I stop for fuel.
>
>I use the same procedure for starting it warm after fueling as I do when
>cold, except no flipping the prop with the mags off to "prime" it. Almost
>invariably, after a half-dozen unsuccessful flips I end up having to open
>the throttle fully, shut off the fuel and mags, and pull the prop through
>backwards to clear the intake of excess fuel. Then with fuel valve still
>shut off and throttle cracked, I can usually get the engine to start and I
>run around to open the fuel valve, but sometimes I end up having to do
>this two or three times. Any idea what I'm doing wrong?
>
>PS- I noticed drops of moisture dripping from my crankcase breather when I
>landed for fuel, too. Not sure what's up with that...
>
>Oscar Zuniga
>San Antonio, TX
>mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
>website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
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Subject: | starting the warm A65 |
No impulse on either of my mags, so starting on one won't retard the timing
. It sounds like the best thing for me to try is to shut down the engine b
y shutting off the fuel and letting it run till it quits, then shutting off
the ignition. And there is no idle cutoff on the Stromberg, of course.
It's all fun and it's good exercise for me ;o) As far as pre-heating the p
ilot, there is no need when you are hand-propping and the engine isn't star
ting right away ;o)Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | starting the warm A65 |
So I take it that you are shutting the engine now by just cutting off the
mags? I would definitely expect you to have flooding problems doing that.
You really don't have an impulse coupling? I would suspect that you would
have a hell of a time hand propping every time you start it unless you
retarded the timing so far that you had no power.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:37 AM
To: Pietenpol List
Subject: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
No impulse on either of my mags, so starting on one won't retard the
timing. It sounds like the best thing for me to try is to shut down the
engine by shutting off the fuel and letting it run till it quits, then
shutting off the ignition. And there is no idle cutoff on the Stromberg, of
course.
It's all fun and it's good exercise for me ;o) As far as pre-heating the
pilot, there is no need when you are hand-propping and the engine isn't
starting right away ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | starting the warm A65 |
Brian wrote-
>So I take it that you are shutting the engine now by just cutting off the
>mags? I would definitely expect you to have flooding problems doing that.
Yup; my bad. But I'll be going to the fuel shutoff routine from now on to
see if that helps.>You really don't have an impulse coupling?
Nope. And the engine starts right up when cold, using the standard drill.
>I would suspect that you would have a hell of a time hand propping
Nope. Coming out of the hangar it's mags cold, fuel on, throttle cracked,
pull it through 6-8 blades, mags hot, starts on the next 1-2 pulls with the
"slight upswing, then pull down" motion that Edwin and others have mention
ed on this list. But warm starts are another matter.
>unless you retarded the timing so far that you had no power.
Oh, I have plenty of power alright. The A65 runs very strong. The timing
on the mags was done shortly after I first got the airplane when we were ha
ving difficulty starting it and found some problems with the harnesses. I
had both mags gone through and timed and we reworked some of the ignition l
eads. I had thought of replacing my left mag with one with impulse couplin
g, and also thought of replacing the whole ignition system with a new dual
Slick setup, but Corky and practicality talked me out of it with the "if it
ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality. So I have a Bendix-Scintilla "lunch
box" on the right and a Bendix S4N on the left, new harnesses on both, and
new Autolite UREM-40E plugs all around. Really no ignition problems and no
lack of power.Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags@hotmail.comwebs
ite at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | starting the warm A65 |
How else can you shut off an A65? None of them have an idle cutoff.
Shutting off the mags is standard procedure. Shouldn't cause flooding
problems, but these old engines are like old dogs - all have
personalities and quirks.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Kraut
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:54 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
So I take it that you are shutting the engine now by just cutting off
the mags? I would definitely expect you to have flooding problems doing
that.
You really don't have an impulse coupling? I would suspect that you
would have a hell of a time hand propping every time you start it unless
you retarded the timing so far that you had no power.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 10:37 AM
To: Pietenpol List
Subject: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
No impulse on either of my mags, so starting on one won't retard
the timing. It sounds like the best thing for me to try is to shut down
the engine by shutting off the fuel and letting it run till it quits,
then shutting off the ignition. And there is no idle cutoff on the
Stromberg, of course.
It's all fun and it's good exercise for me ;o) As far as
pre-heating the pilot, there is no need when you are hand-propping and
the engine isn't starting right away ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/ch
ref="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matro
nics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
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orsk - Portuguese
Message 10
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Subject: | elevator control question |
I am tinkering with the elevator controls on my project, and need some help.
I was surprised at how little play fore-and-aft I have with the stick as connected,
but much more so by how little the elevator bellcrank moves. I am going
to need to change my setup slightly, as Corky had pointed out, and now is the
time to adjust it right for me. I think the stick movement is fine for me as
it is, but I may need to change things to get some negative leverage (and thus
achieve more movement at the elevator for each stick input).
So I need to know how much elevator movement on the back and then configure to
achieve that. Thus, here's my question: how much maximum movement in the elevator
should there be?
Please either tell me:
-- an angle on the elevator;
-- the amount of vertical movement at the trailing edge of the elevator; or
-- the amount of fore-and-aft movement of the cable at the elevator horn (if horn
to plans).
Thanks,
Tim in central TX
Message 11
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Subject: | Re: starting the warm A65 |
Oscar,
I know the answer to your problem. Only cause I bounced it off my
Mentor a few months ago.
AGAIN I bring up this guy, but he is amazing.
He said due to the basicness <sp> of this carb, and that it is 70 or 80
year old technology.
>From shutting down with the Mags (like I do) allows the engine to rotate
many times, it sucks in lots of fuel.
If you start it right away , it's OK, but 10 minutes or so, forget it.
Simply get in the habit of opening the throttle immidiately upon
shutting off the mags. This breaks the manifold vacuum, and does not
draw from the very rich idle fuel circuit, on the coast to stop.
Just out of habit, when engine is stopped, and while your hand is still
on the throttle,,,pull it back to idle. ( so you won't have a very
exciting next start) :^)
Works like a charm.
Apparently all the old time A65 flyers know this and do this.
walt evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: Oscar Zuniga
To: Pietenpol List
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 8:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
I do have a question for you folks who fly the A65. I have noticed
that just about every time I get fuel, I have a bit of difficulty
starting the engine when I'm ready to pull away from the pump. I have a
10 min. flight from our field (which has no fuel) and Castroville, which
means the engine is always fully warmed up when I stop for fuel.
I use the same procedure for starting it warm after fueling as I do
when cold, except no flipping the prop with the mags off to "prime" it.
Almost invariably, after a half-dozen unsuccessful flips I end up having
to open the throttle fully, shut off the fuel and mags, and pull the
prop through backwards to clear the intake of excess fuel. Then with
fuel valve still shut off and throttle cracked, I can usually get the
engine to start and I run around to open the fuel valve, but sometimes I
end up having to do this two or three times. Any idea what I'm doing
wrong?
PS- I noticed drops of moisture dripping from my crankcase breather
when I landed for fuel, too. Not sure what's up with that...
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | Andy's Airplanes |
I really hate to sound like a commercial, but I thought I'd share this
for any of you with kids or grand kids.
I ran into their display at Oshkosh, actually, and made a note to
follow up. "Andy's Airplanes" is a cartoon sort of presentation for
kids, naturally Andy flies. His adventures seek to educate kids about
geography and more importantly about airplanes. The whole thing has
just got off the ground in the last couple months and I was glad to see
the first DVD is ready now.
I have a grandson who is 4, and a huge airplane fan. He literally
carries airplanes with him everywhere. He can hear a plane coming
within earshot before anyone else around (probably youthful ears, but I
like to think he's got some sort of specially tuned hearing, sort of
like Radar on MASH). Anyway, I thought the presentation was really
cute, and when I talked to the folks at Oshkosh they were really
sincere about making this a really good thing for kids.
I just thought I'd toss it out there in case anyone was looking for
gifts for any kids who have an interest in flying. I have no
connection to the company at all, except as a customer, and anything we
can do to get more kids interested in aviation can only be a good
thing.
It's at andysairplanes.com
Tim in Bovey
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page.
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs
Message 13
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Subject: | Re: starting the warm A65 |
When I bought my Baby Ace with an A75 thats how I was taught to shut it
down. I was told it would help keep the carbureter from dripping. (It
still drips a little occasionally). I've never had a problem with hot
starts, though. I just shove the throttle forward as I turn off the
mags, holding full brakes and ready to pull the throttle just in case
one of the P-lead wires has come loose and it doesn't shut down.
Ben Charvet
walt evans wrote:
> Oscar,
> I know the answer to your problem. Only cause I bounced it off my
> Mentor a few months ago.
> AGAIN I bring up this guy, but he is amazing.
> He said due to the basicness <sp> of this carb, and that it is 70 or
> 80 year old technology.
> From shutting down with the Mags (like I do) allows the engine to
> rotate many times, it sucks in lots of fuel.
> If you start it right away , it's OK, but 10 minutes or so, forget it.
>
> Simply get in the habit of opening the throttle immidiately upon
> shutting off the mags. This breaks the manifold vacuum, and does not
> draw from the very rich idle fuel circuit, on the coast to stop.
> Just out of habit, when engine is stopped, and while your hand is
> still on the throttle,,,pull it back to idle. ( so you won't have a
> very exciting next start) :^)
>
> Works like a charm.
>
> Apparently all the old time A65 flyers know this and do this.
>
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: starting the warm A65 |
I second that! Since I'm definately not a "motor head" I refer to Harry's
site anytime I have a question. It's packed full of good info and he will
answer all questions, just give him some time to get back to you.
Oscar does have a good point for those of you that may get a tad cold while
flying. Just stop and flip the prop for a while. Works every time.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com>
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 8:14 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
> <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com>
>
> Another good site for info is Harry Fenton's Engine page on the Fly Baby
> website. Harry worked for Slick Magnetos for years and knows more about
> small Continentals than anyone else I know. His website makes for great
> reading: http://www.bowersflybaby.com/tech/engines.htm
>
> Jack Phillips
> Raleigh, NC
>
>
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Subject: | Re: starting the warm A65 |
Oscar,
Any chance it's fuel coming from your carb due to flooding and not water
from your breather?
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Oscar Zuniga
To: Pietenpol List
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 7:37 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: starting the warm A65
PS- I noticed drops of moisture dripping from my crankcase breather
when I landed for fuel, too. Not sure what's up with that...
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
11/8/2007 9:29 AM
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Subject: | Re: Engine pre-heat |
Dick,
I would love to have that radial engine on my plane! Sure is a sweet
sounding engine. Max, on this list, has been talking about buying one
for his Piet and I sure hope he does so I can go by and fondle it once
in a while. I can only repeat what I've read and been told by those
that know engines but one of the things I believe in is never starting a
cold aircraft engine in temps below 45 degrees without preheating. The
oil just becomes too thick. What kind of temps were you showing while
in flight? Do you have any way to control the engine oil temps?
I find that dressing in layers works well for me (makes it a little
harder to get in and out of the plane) and as long as I have my pant
legs tucked into my boots and good gloves on I can remain comfortable in
most temps. The gloves I like best are a pair of motorcycle gloves that
extend up my wrist and my coat sleeves tuck inside. There is a lot of
snow machine clothes that work very well also. I'm considering
covering the front cockpit and that will stop a lot of the air coming in
around the feet.
I built my preheater tonight. A heat gun and a 4' piece of expandable
3" metal duct (it will expand up to 8' if I want more length) that I
bought at Lowes. As a test I ran it on high and right away the outlet
end of the duct started climbing past 250 degrees, then I turned it on
low and it ran at a study 150 degrees temp. Really don't think I'll
need to ever run it on high. I used the heat gun because I had it.
Now all I have to do is wait for some cool weather (in the high 60's
here today).
There is a HUGH interest in your radial here on this list. Please keep
us all up to date and some photos would be great.
Gene
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Navratil
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, November 18, 2007 8:01 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Engine pre-heat
Gene
I havent flown my Piety during winter in the past, but I'm going to
try it this year. I was out yesterday late afternoon for a bit. 37
degrees on the ground when I left 35 coming back in. With the long
undies and the rest of the warm clothing it wasnt bad. Tommorrow I'll
be out again. I'm finding that radial engine is a bit hard starting
when cold. I'll be trying the pre heating tips in this thread.
Dick N.
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Subject: | drips from the breather |
>Any chance it's fuel coming from your carb due to flooding and not water f
rom your breather?
Absolutely none. Fuel drips onto the concrete evaporate almost instantly a
nd these were definitely creating wet spots on the concrete. I put some on
my finger and it was water. Of course, I also had prodigious amounts of "
sweat" on the upper end of my carb and the intake runners close to it, so I
know it was condensation, just not sure why it was coming out the crankcas
e breather.
Walt, Ben, and others- thanks a million for the engine shutdown/restart tip
. I can't wait to give it a try!Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildra
gs@hotmail.comwebsite at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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Subject: | Re: drips from the breather |
Oscar, I get condensation drips from my breather too...
Ben in humid Florida
scar Zuniga wrote:
> >Any chance it's fuel coming from your carb due to flooding and not water
> from your breather?
>
> Absolutely none. Fuel drips onto the concrete evaporate almost
> instantly and these were definitely creating wet spots on the
> concrete. I put some on my finger and it was water. Of course, I
> also had prodigious amounts of "sweat" on the upper end of my carb and
> the intake runners close to it, so I know it was condensation, just
> not sure why it was coming out the crankcase breather.
>
> Walt, Ben, and others- thanks a million for the engine
> shutdown/restart tip. I can't wait to give it a try!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
> *
>
>
> *
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Subject: | drips from the breather |
It is normal to get water vapor out of the breather. I don't know how
common it is to get enough to cause drips, but it would certainly not
surprise me. We have all seen water dripping out of car tailpipes in cold
weather. Water is a byproduct of combustion. Most of what comes out your
breather is combustion blowby that gets past the rings.
One of the reasons that you want to be sure that your oil gets up to at
least 212 degrees is to boil the water out of it. Keep in mind that is 212
at some point in the oil flow. It is not necessarilly that hot where your
oil temp probe is. That is also the reason that for engines in short term
storage the manufacturers recommend that you run them so often, not just for
a few minutes, but until the oil temp gets to the operating range.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Ben
Charvet
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 9:55 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: drips from the breather
Oscar, I get condensation drips from my breather too...
Ben in humid Florida
scar Zuniga wrote:
> >Any chance it's fuel coming from your carb due to flooding and not water
> from your breather?
>
> Absolutely none. Fuel drips onto the concrete evaporate almost
> instantly and these were definitely creating wet spots on the
> concrete. I put some on my finger and it was water. Of course, I
> also had prodigious amounts of "sweat" on the upper end of my carb and
> the intake runners close to it, so I know it was condensation, just
> not sure why it was coming out the crankcase breather.
>
> Walt, Ben, and others- thanks a million for the engine
> shutdown/restart tip. I can't wait to give it a try!
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
> *
>
>
> *
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Subject: | Re: starting the warm A65 |
Hi Oscar,
Just a thought... I used to have two "lunchbox" Bendix mags on mine. They produce
one heck of a spark and are nearly bullet proof. I really like them... when
cold starting and when running. Once the coils in those things get warm they
have a tendency to not throw quite as hot a spark. When running it's no big
deal. When starting it seems to be a big deal. I almost always had the same
issue. On a cold start it was textbook. Fire up every time on the same blade.
When restarting it when it was warm, it might go after a few blades or it
might be time for 'Continental Calisthenics', if you know what I mean. A couple
of guys at a strip where I normally get fuel would always come out to see me,
hang out and talk while I was fueling up then suddenly disappear when I was
looking for a prop. Guess they already had their "aero" bics for the day.
Anyway, my engine guy finally talked me into an impulse mag. I found an old Eisemann
on ebay, bought it and he overhauled it for me. Now I have one Bendix
SF4RN and one Eisemann with an impulse. I now look like I know what I'm doing
( some may question that though). Much better and I'll hang onto the other
Bendix for a spare. Those Bendix's really are great mags, it's just when they
are warm, those coils don't throw quite as hot a spark and then the timing isn't
retarded to help you out either for starting.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147327#147327
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Subject: | Re: drips from the breather |
I get the drips too. Not what I like to see, but like Brian says, get it warm
enough and it will burn off. BTW I always do the taste test. How else can you
be sure what it is?
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=147328#147328
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Subject: | Re: Engine pre-heat |
Gene and Ryan and all
An updater on the Rotec; It is like flying a hot rod. It is really lots
of fun to fly. It is extremely responsive. I have 12 hours on it now.
The biggest problem I have had so far has been radio interference. I
think I've got it solved, hopefully. I am still learning the plane but
it flies comfortably at 75-80 and it still responds well at 35-40 mph.
Climb is best at 55 mph at 600fpm Engine temp at 75-80 deg runs 180 deg
and now at 35-40 deg runs at 140 deg.
I tried to do a power on stall a couple of weeks ago but I gave it full
power and nosed up and it settled into a slight climb at 35 mph with the
nose upabout 40 degrees and wouldnt break. I'll be trying that again in
the future.
I have been doing some low flying over the mowed farm fields, it's a
blast to fly along at 10-20 ft agl now that I am getting more confident
in the engine.
I have a cover for the front cockpit, that helps alot. Layers are a
must, thinsulate gloves and wool socks and waterproof hunting boots
also, with leather coat and fleece lined leather helmet. I bought a
vide camera and am working on a mount for some flying videos, my first
couple of trys havent worked very well.
The hard part here is looking at my other Piet, which I havent flown
since August. The time is coming that Im going to have to put it up for
sale. I cant fly 2 at the same time.
More on this later
Dick N
----- Original Message -----
From: Gene & Tammy
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, November 19, 2007 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Engine pre-heat
Dick,
I would love to have that radial engine on my plane! Sure is a sweet
sounding engine. Max, on this list, has been talking about buying one
for his Piet and I sure hope he does so I can go by and fondle it once
in a while. I can only repeat what I've read and been told by those
that know engines but one of the things I believe in is never starting a
cold aircraft engine in temps below 45 degrees without preheating. The
oil just becomes too thick. What kind of temps were you showing while
in flight? Do you have any way to control the engine oil temps?
I find that dressing in layers works well for me (makes it a little
harder to get in and out of the plane) and as long as I have my pant
legs tucked into my boots and good gloves on I can remain comfortable in
most temps. The gloves I like best are a pair of motorcycle gloves that
extend up my wrist and my coat sleeves tuck inside. There is a lot of
snow machine clothes that work very well also. I'm considering
covering the front cockpit and that will stop a lot of the air coming in
around the feet.
I built my preheater tonight. A heat gun and a 4' piece of expandable
3" metal duct (it will expand up to 8' if I want more length) that I
bought at Lowes. As a test I ran it on high and right away the outlet
end of the duct started climbing past 250 degrees, then I turned it on
low and it ran at a study 150 degrees temp. Really don't think I'll
need to ever run it on high. I used the heat gun because I had it.
Now all I have to do is wait for some cool weather (in the high 60's
here today).
There is a HUGH interest in your radial here on this list. Please
keep us all up to date and some photos would be great.
Gene
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