Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:04 AM - Re: Assembly Milestone (Phillips, Jack)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: final rigging (Phillips, Jack)
3. 06:22 AM - Re: Assembly Milestone (Jack T. Textor)
4. 07:01 AM - Re: Digital Scale (MikeD)
5. 07:17 AM - Re: Re: Vi Kaplers hinges (Bill Church)
6. 07:32 AM - Re: Re: Vi Kaplers hinges (Scott Knowlton)
7. 07:38 AM - Re: Assembly Milestone (HelsperSew@aol.com)
8. 08:05 AM - Assembly milestone (santiago morete)
9. 08:38 AM - Re: Re: Digital Scale (Bill Church)
10. 09:21 AM - Re: Digital Scale (Glenn Thomas)
11. 09:54 AM - mixing T88 (Oscar Zuniga)
12. 10:00 AM - Re: Re: Vi Kaplers hinges (Ryan Michals)
13. 10:21 AM - Re: Re: Vi Kaplers hinges (Ryan Michals)
14. 11:04 AM - Re: mixing T88 (Dave Abramson)
15. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: Digital Scale (Brian Kraut)
16. 11:09 AM - Re: Re: Digital Scale (Brian Kraut)
17. 11:35 AM - Re: Re: Vi Kaplers hinges (Jack T. Textor)
18. 02:30 PM - Re: Assembly milestone (Patrick Panzera)
19. 08:39 PM - Re: Assembly milestone (gcardinal)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Assembly Milestone |
Dan,
Your Pietenpol looks great! Looks like you are about ready for cover
now, and that was perhaps the most satisfying part of the whole project
to me, where you transform a bare framework into a flying machine.
Unless you are a real magician, I would doubt if you will have it ready
for Brodhead this year (for me, covering and painting took the better
part of a year, but I'm a notoriously slow worker).
Much as I'd like to see it at Brodhead this year, please don't push it.
The RV-10 community recently had their first fatal accident of an RV-10
and from the preliminary post-mortem it appears that a number of short
cuts were made in order for the plane to make it to Oshkosh this year
(it appears that the 40 hour flyoff was "pencil whipped" and the plane
had less than 7 hours on it when it took off for OSH). Mods continued
to be made to the airplane on almost every flight and apparently one of
them went bad, killing the owner/builder. If necessary, a bunch of us
can stop in at Poplar Grove on the way to or from Brodhead to see your
project.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HelsperSew@aol.com
Sent: Sunday, December 02, 2007 8:16 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Assembly Milestone
Group,
Thanks to all who responded to my notice of progress. I really
appreciate it, as it really means a lot to me. At this point I have a
whole host of avenues to work on, not knowing which to take. There have
been so many things that have hinged on this event. More FUN!!!
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
_____
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Message 2
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Good luck, Rob. We need photos!
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
Raleigh, NC
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
RBush96589@aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 30, 2007 7:54 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: final rigging
thanks for the input on my rigging question everyone. I am going to try
to get it together this weekend, weather permitting.Jack and Gene if
everything goes OK in the next couple of weekends,and I can get
comfortable flying this thing by the time you get ready to make the trip
to Brodhead I would be interested in making the trip with you. I live
between Jackson and Lexington.
Robert Bush
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Assembly Milestone |
Very good thoughts Jack. I had not heard about the 10, sad news.
Jack
www.textors.com
do not archive
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| Subject: | Re: Digital Scale |
Glenn Thomas wrote:
> I used it when making ribs to measure out one part of the T-88. One of the
parts has a higher mass per volume so you have to measure the volume of the other
part visually. It was good for getting the right amount to start with. T-88
instructions say to mix 2 parts of equal volume. When I was ready to mix
by equal mass I could see that the volumes where different so the scale didn't
really end up giving me the precision I was hoping for. I think you can get
pretty good precision using identical translucent plastic containers and a block
of wood or straight edge behind them as a reference point.
>
Having spent quite a few years in R&D which involved formulating a variety of potions
and substances, including epoxy adhesive systems, I should point out something
for informative purposes.
The one major problem with your "discovery", is that volume ratios are not the
gospel. Mass ratios are. Mixing by proper mass ratio is required to achieve a
stoichiometric balance between the two components. Volume ratio takes second chair
to mixing in the proper ratio of mass.
Epoxies such as T-88 are formulated so that you can achieve a reasonably accurate
A:B blend when mixing by volume, which is what most people leans towards as
it is convenient and does not require a scale or balance to do so. If you are
off a bit on either side of ideal the properties are not adversely affected,
but there are limits to that. You will note the caution on the data sheet regardng
addition of extra hardener for example - that is a complete no-no.
In the world of epoxies and curatives, and in other adhesive chemistries as well,
the raw material data contains a figure known as "equivalent weight" - which
in simple terms is the mass (= weight on a scale) of one material that contains
a known amount of reactive sites on the molecule. In order for each "A" site
to react with a matching "B" site on the curative, you need an equal number
of reactive sites on each side. When you have the equivalent weights of the
materials, this is easy, and the two are mixed in proportion according to the
equivalent weights, giving an equal number of "A" and "B" parts. Volume is in
fact completely irrelevant and no more than a secondary parameter, and is only
accounted for in the formulation and provided as a convenient method of mixing.
Yes to one possible burning question: if the specific gravities of two materials
are known, you can theoretically mix them correctly by volume. However, think
of the things that could throw you off:
(1) air bubbles in either material
(2) tapered weighing vessels
(3) human error
(4) misreading due to the meniscus (the curve at the side of some liquid materials)
(5) material stuck to the side of the weighing vessel
(6) a combination of any of the above or other issues not listed
None of which apply when mixing by weight! Don't be fooled by the manufacturer's
listed 1:1 ratio by volume - there is a bag of tricks available to the formulator
to allow them to adjust each side so that 1:1 volume gives the right mix
ratio. However, they do this with prior knowledge of the correct mass ratios.
A good rule to follow is, anytime you have access to two things - (1) a reasonably
accurate scale, and (b) the A:B mass ratio specified by the manufacturer of
the epoxy system - you should mix by mass versus by volume. In the long run
your mixes will be more consistent and therefore by inference will be closer to
the maximum properties of the adhesive system. In essence, you can bypass the
secondary method of volume mixing and it's potential flwas, and go right to
the horse's mouth by using a scale.
In simple terms, while volumetric mixing is "good enough" in most cases, when you
have the choice, would you not err towards the knowledge that you have not
made a volume interpretation error and use the mass ratios instead? To me I can't
do something in a less accurate manner when the better way is available and
has far fewer caveats. For the cost of a scale good enough to do the job, which
can be measured in tens of dollars and is therefore insignificant compared
to the investment in time and money on a homebuilt, why piddle around?
Hey, just my "$0.02".. [Wink]
Mike D.
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150169#150169
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Vi Kaplers hinges |
Carson,
I don't have Vi's hinges, so this isn't speaking from personal
experience with them, but...
BHP's plans show the empennage hinges to be mounted with #8 screws.
Let's make the very safe assumption that these will be sufficient to
carry the load (based on a total of four screws per hinge assembly - two
for each component).
Based on the dimension you have given, the holes in your hinges are
.156" (5/32" diameter holes). Don't know the precision of your
measurement (measured with a caliper or a ruler). In any case, the screw
size closest to that hole is a #8 screw (.164" diameter). If I were you,
I would go with #8-32 hardware (length to suit your particular build
conditions - depending whether you recess the hinges into the wood or
not). See if the screws will fit in the holes as-is. If necessary, open
the holes in the hinges with a 11/64" drill (11/64" = .171", which
will
give you a nice .007" clearance). As I understand it, Vi's hinges are
made of cast aluminum, so it wouldn't be a surprise at all if the holes
were not perfect.
If anyone out there with first-hand experience with Vi's hinges
disagrees with anything I have just written, please let the list know.
Bill C.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Vi Kaplers hinges |
Gents
I purchased Vi's hinges three years ago at Broadhead. Bill is correct abou
t the # 8 screws. I purchased 8-32 x 11/2 machine screws from Leavens Avia
tion in Toronto (ANM MS24693558) along with self locking nuts and washers.
The countersink holes of Vi's hinges accept the machine screws heads perfe
ctly.
My two bits...
Scott Knowlton
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Vi Kaplers hingesDate: Mon, 3 Dec 2007 10:
17:19 -0500From: eng@canadianrogers.comTo: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Carson,
I don't have Vi's hinges, so this isn't speaking from personal experience w
ith them, but...
BHP's plans show the empennage hinges to be mounted with #8 screws. Let's m
ake the very safe assumption that these will be sufficient to carry the loa
d (based on a total of four screws per hinge assembly - two for each compon
ent).
Based on the dimension you have given, the holes in your hinges are .156" (
5/32" diameter holes). Don't know the precision of your measurement (measur
ed with a caliper or a ruler). In any case, the screw size closest to that
hole is a #8 screw (.164" diameter). If I were you, I would go with #8-32 h
ardware (length to suit your particular build conditions - depending whethe
r you recess the hinges into the wood or not). See if the screws will fit i
n the holes as-is. If necessary, open the holes in the hinges with a 11/64"
drill (11/64" = .171", which will give you a nice .007" clearance). As I
understand it, Vi's hinges are made of cast aluminum, so it wouldn't be a
surprise at all if the holes were not perfect.
If anyone out there with first-hand experience with Vi's hinges disagrees w
ith anything I have just written, please let the list know.
Bill C.
_________________________________________________________________
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Assembly Milestone |
Hi Jack,
Thank you for your kind words. That's good advice about not rushing. I still
have much work to do before I start the covering, such as making the fuel
lines and cowling. There is no way I can get it done for 2008, but Lord willing
I should be there at Brodhead in '08.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
**************************************Check out AOL's list of 2007's hottest
products.
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Assembly milestone |
Congratulations Dan!!! Beautiful work. Thanks for the pictures!
Saludos
Santiago
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| Subject: | Re: Digital Scale |
Like Einstein said, "Things should be made as simple as possible, but
not any simpler."
So, when it comes to mixing epoxy, which of the following is simpler:
Mix equal parts (by volume) of Part A and Part B.
Or
Mix (by mass) Parts A and B in a ratio of 100 to 83. (or is that 83 to
100)?
Human nature being what it is, one time or another, someone is going to
do it the wrong way around,and instead of being off by a few percent
(due to normal human error), they're going to be off by about 40%. And
how many guys are going to forget to reset the scale (or deduct the mass
of the cup)? I'm pretty sure that when they formulated T88 (or any
similar structural epoxy like it) they intentionally made it so there
was a one-to-one ratio by volume, because that's the simplest way to
measure liquids. That's probably why they say to mix it that way on the
bottles. It's easier for the builder, and it's probably better
(liability-wise) for the epoxy formulator. So, if the instructions say
to mix equal parts by volume, why not do that?
When mixing my epoxy, I use the same clear graduated plastic cups that
Clif recommended (Lee Valley # 56Z82.02). Yes, the cups are tapered, but
they have multiple graduations in ounces, millilitres and drams - take
your pick. I also leave the unused portion of my mix in the cup, which I
label with the date, to keep a record of my mixes. There is no transfer
of material from one cup to another - it's all done in the one cup. Fill
up to the mark for 3/8 of an ounce with Part A, and let it settle, and
all air bubbles rise. Re-check after settling, to make sure the volume
is right. Then add Part B almost up to the mark for 3/4 of an ounce,
let that settle, and add a little bit more (if necessary) to get the
total volume to 3/4 of an ounce. Mix thoroughly for several minutes
non-stop, then let it sit for ten minutes, for the tiny air bubbles to
dissipate, and apply. Works like a charm.
<<glue cups.jpg>>
I also use their glue spreaders (Lee valley #99K50.10) to mix and apply
the epoxy. After the epoxy has hardened, it flakes off, and the spreader
can be re-used over and over again.
<<glue spreaders.jpg>>
Personally, I think the average builder is waaaaaay more likely to screw
up measuring by mass in a ratio of .83 to 1 than by measuring by volume
in a ratio of 1 to 1. Why make life more complicated?
My $.02 (Canadian)
Bill C.
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Digital Scale |
Resin 100 parts / Hardener 83 parts BY WEIGHT - From a call to System 3
No problem with my "discovery". I got the mfr ration by weighing what I visually
compared. If you take your time, take your project seriously and measure carefully,
you will be fine.
I agree with every point Bill made and have been using same type of mixing process
as he has and don't think new builders should have cause for concern if they
have been measuring visually by equal volume and doing it carefully.
--------
Glenn Thomas
N?????
http://www.flyingwood.com
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150202#150202
Message 11
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I'm no expert on adhesives or epoxies and I don't want anyone hurt, injured, damaged,
or offended.
With that said- I'm going to come clean and say that when I first started building
my "Flying Squirrel" I got disposable syringes and clear plastic mixing cups
and all of that and it didn't last one building session. Too much sticky mess,
hassle, and I couldn't see that it was needed so I started mixing my T88
by eye in the small Dixie cups (unwaxed) with wooden tongue depressors and that's
the only way I've ever done it since. I never need or mix large batches and
I always leave the stick (actually half a stick... I cut them in half and use
the other half next batch; cheapskate) standing in the cup. Next day, the
stick is always solidly glued to the cup and the epoxy is rock-hard.
May my soul rest in peace when they recover my body from the unglued airframe of
my Squirrel or the repairs I've made on the Piet, but so far I have never used
scales or syringes when measuring or mixing T88 and have always found my wood
joints to be strong and complete using moderate clamping pressure and good
squeeze-out at the joints. I pour what appear to be equal puddles of resin and
hardener in the cup, mix thoroughly, and either I've been lucky or the stuff
is pretty flexible on the ratio because it works just fine. If I were to need
a larger batch I would use postal scales, which my buddy has in the hangar (the
Pelouze that was mentioned here before).
Do not archive
and please do not follow my example either, but that's the simple truth for what's
worked for me for years now.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Vi Kaplers hinges |
Does anyone know who was selling the machined hinges adjacent to the Vi's hinges
at Brodhead '08? I purchased the hinges but he had some other products I am
interested in.
Ryan M
Scott Knowlton <flyingscott_k@hotmail.com> wrote:
.hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE:
10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } Gents
I purchased Vi's hinges three years ago at Broadhead. Bill is correct about the
# 8 screws. I purchased 8-32 x 11/2 machine screws from Leavens Aviation in
Toronto (ANM MS24693558) along with self locking nuts and washers. The countersink
holes of Vi's hinges accept the machine screws heads perfectly.
My two bits...
Scott Knowlton
---------------------------------
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Vi Kaplers hinges
From: eng@canadianrogers.com
Carson,
I don't have Vi's hinges, so this isn't speaking from personal experience with
them, but...
BHP's plans show the empennage hinges to be mounted with #8 screws. Let's make
the very safe assumption that these will be sufficient to carry the load (based
on a total of four screws per hinge assembly - two for each component).
Based on the dimension you have given, the holes in your hinges are .156" (5/32"
diameter holes). Don't know the precision of your measurement (measured with
a caliper or a ruler). In any case, the screw size closest to that hole is a
#8 screw (.164" diameter). If I were you, I would go with #8-32 hardware (length
to suit your particular build conditions - depending whether you recess the
hinges into the wood or not). See if the screws will fit in the holes as-is.
If necessary, open the holes in the hinges with a 11/64" drill (11/64" = .171",
which will give you a nice .007" clearance). As I understand it, Vi's hinges
are made of cast aluminum, so it wouldn't be a surprise at all if the holes were
not perfect.
If anyone out there with first-hand experience with Vi's hinges disagrees with
anything I have just written, please let the list know.
Bill C.
blank>http://www.matronics.com/contribution " target=_blank>http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List p://forums.matronics.com
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Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Vi Kaplers hinges |
I am getting a little ahead of myself. I meant Brodhead '07.
do not archive
Ryan Michals <aircamperace@yahoo.com> wrote:
Does anyone know who was selling the machined hinges adjacent to the Vi's hinges
at Brodhead '08? I purchased the hinges but he had some other products I
am interested in.
Ryan M
Scott Knowlton <flyingscott_k@hotmail.com> wrote:
.hmmessage P { margin:0px; padding:0px } body.hmmessage { FONT-SIZE:
10pt; FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma } Gents
I purchased Vi's hinges three years ago at Broadhead. Bill is correct about the
# 8 screws. I purchased 8-32 x 11/2 machine screws from Leavens Aviation in
Toronto (ANM MS24693558) along with self locking nuts and washers. The countersink
holes of Vi's hinges accept the machine screws heads perfectly.
My two bits...
Scott Knowlton
---------------------------------
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Vi Kaplers hinges
From: eng@canadianrogers.com
Carson,
I don't have Vi's hinges, so this isn't speaking from personal experience with
them, but...
BHP's plans show the empennage hinges to be mounted with #8 screws. Let's make
the very safe assumption that these will be sufficient to carry the load (based
on a total of four screws per hinge assembly - two for each component).
Based on the dimension you have given, the holes in your hinges are .156" (5/32"
diameter holes). Don't know the precision of your measurement (measured with
a caliper or a ruler). In any case, the screw size closest to that hole is a
#8 screw (.164" diameter). If I were you, I would go with #8-32 hardware (length
to suit your particular build conditions - depending whether you recess the
hinges into the wood or not). See if the screws will fit in the holes as-is.
If necessary, open the holes in the hinges with a 11/64" drill (11/64" = .171",
which will give you a nice .007" clearance). As I understand it, Vi's hinges
are made of cast aluminum, so it wouldn't be a surprise at all if the holes were
not perfect.
If
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Message 14
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Ditto! I have been just eye-balling as well...... Has always cured hard as
a rock! I do not think T-88 is not real critical to the amount. It just
needs to be "close".
My 2 cents.........
Dave
2 years and still building......... But, flying my 140!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 9:54 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: mixing T88
I'm no expert on adhesives or epoxies and I don't want anyone hurt, injured,
damaged, or offended.
With that said- I'm going to come clean and say that when I first started
building my "Flying Squirrel" I got disposable syringes and clear plastic
mixing cups and all of that and it didn't last one building session. Too
much sticky mess, hassle, and I couldn't see that it was needed so I started
mixing my T88 by eye in the small Dixie cups (unwaxed) with wooden tongue
depressors and that's the only way I've ever done it since. I never need or
mix large batches and I always leave the stick (actually half a stick... I
cut them in half and use the other half next batch; cheapskate) standing in
the cup. Next day, the stick is always solidly glued to the cup and the
epoxy is rock-hard.
May my soul rest in peace when they recover my body from the unglued
airframe of my Squirrel or the repairs I've made on the Piet, but so far I
have never used scales or syringes when measuring or mixing T88 and have
always found my wood joints to be strong and complete using moderate
clamping pressure and good squeeze-out at the joints. I pour what appear to
be equal puddles of resin and hardener in the cup, mix thoroughly, and
either I've been lucky or the stuff is pretty flexible on the ratio because
it works just fine. If I were to need a larger batch I would use postal
scales, which my buddy has in the hangar (the Pelouze that was mentioned
here before).
Do not archive
and please do not follow my example either, but that's the simple truth for
what's worked for me for years now.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Digital Scale |
RE: Pietenpol-List: Re: Digital ScaleOh, and one other thing. I take a
Sharpie and write "100" one one bottle and "83" on the other as soon as I
get more T-88. Keeps down the confusion when mixing and chances for error.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Digital Scale |
Mixing by weight also has a some other advantages. One I like a lot is that
if I did not mix enough I can throw the same mixing cup with the mixing
stick and leftover epoxy on the sides of the cup back on the scale and hit
the tare button. Then I can start a fresh batch in the same cup. There is
also a lot less waste when you are not using separate syringes or something
for your measuring.
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of MikeD
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 10:01 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Digital Scale
Glenn Thomas wrote:
> I used it when making ribs to measure out one part of the T-88. One of
the parts has a higher mass per volume so you have to measure the volume of
the other part visually. It was good for getting the right amount to start
with. T-88 instructions say to mix 2 parts of equal volume. When I was
ready to mix by equal mass I could see that the volumes where different so
the scale didn't really end up giving me the precision I was hoping for. I
think you can get pretty good precision using identical translucent plastic
containers and a block of wood or straight edge behind them as a reference
point.
>
Having spent quite a few years in R&D which involved formulating a variety
of potions and substances, including epoxy adhesive systems, I should point
out something for informative purposes.
The one major problem with your "discovery", is that volume ratios are not
the gospel. Mass ratios are. Mixing by proper mass ratio is required to
achieve a stoichiometric balance between the two components. Volume ratio
takes second chair to mixing in the proper ratio of mass.
Epoxies such as T-88 are formulated so that you can achieve a reasonably
accurate A:B blend when mixing by volume, which is what most people leans
towards as it is convenient and does not require a scale or balance to do
so. If you are off a bit on either side of ideal the properties are not
adversely affected, but there are limits to that. You will note the caution
on the data sheet regardng addition of extra hardener for example - that is
a complete no-no.
In the world of epoxies and curatives, and in other adhesive chemistries as
well, the raw material data contains a figure known as "equivalent weight" -
which in simple terms is the mass (= weight on a scale) of one material that
contains a known amount of reactive sites on the molecule. In order for each
"A" site to react with a matching "B" site on the curative, you need an
equal number of reactive sites on each side. When you have the equivalent
weights of the materials, this is easy, and the two are mixed in proportion
according to the equivalent weights, giving an equal number of "A" and "B"
parts. Volume is in fact completely irrelevant and no more than a secondary
parameter, and is only accounted for in the formulation and provided as a
convenient method of mixing.
Yes to one possible burning question: if the specific gravities of two
materials are known, you can theoretically mix them correctly by volume.
However, think of the things that could throw you off:
(1) air bubbles in either material
(2) tapered weighing vessels
(3) human error
(4) misreading due to the meniscus (the curve at the side of some liquid
materials)
(5) material stuck to the side of the weighing vessel
(6) a combination of any of the above or other issues not listed
None of which apply when mixing by weight! Don't be fooled by the
manufacturer's listed 1:1 ratio by volume - there is a bag of tricks
available to the formulator to allow them to adjust each side so that 1:1
volume gives the right mix ratio. However, they do this with prior knowledge
of the correct mass ratios.
A good rule to follow is, anytime you have access to two things - (1) a
reasonably accurate scale, and (b) the A:B mass ratio specified by the
manufacturer of the epoxy system - you should mix by mass versus by volume.
In the long run your mixes will be more consistent and therefore by
inference will be closer to the maximum properties of the adhesive system.
In essence, you can bypass the secondary method of volume mixing and it's
potential flwas, and go right to the horse's mouth by using a scale.
In simple terms, while volumetric mixing is "good enough" in most cases,
when you have the choice, would you not err towards the knowledge that you
have not made a volume interpretation error and use the mass ratios instead?
To me I can't do something in a less accurate manner when the better way is
available and has far fewer caveats. For the cost of a scale good enough to
do the job, which can be measured in tens of dollars and is therefore
insignificant compared to the investment in time and money on a homebuilt,
why piddle around?
Hey, just my "$0.02".. [Wink]
Mike D.
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=150169#150169
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Vi Kaplers hinges |
Ryan,
I'm not sure who that was. If it was the fellow selling laser cut parts
I believe many of the items he had were cut from stock that was to thin.
Jack
www.textors.com
Message 18
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| Subject: | Assembly milestone |
Beautiful job Dan, thanks for sharing.
Gang,
In the current issue of CONTACT! Magazine, our very own Oscar Zuniga
presented an entertaining and well received article that explores the idea
of building a Henderson Longster as a part 103 legal ultralight. Although
our magazine usually doesn't delve into ultralights, I received a lot of
mail asking for more "low and slow" and antique style aircraft, like what we
use to get in To Fly.
So with that, and motivated by Dan's inspirational photos, I'd like to ask
the group to help me put together several Pietenpol articles that might help
to showcase the gambit of creativity and craftsmanship spread throughout
this community.
I'm sure if I ask nicely, OZ can help spearhead this effort, and with that,
maybe we can expand the scope of CONTACT! to include a regular presentation
representing open cockpits and flying wires.
I would most likely want to feature a minimum of three-four
aircraft/projects. Unlike most magazines that think featuring something
incomplete is taboo, we feel that our readers break down to the kind of
"mechanics" (for a lack of a better word) that would love nothing more than
spending an afternoon in a fellow builder's hanger, proposing over the work
in progress. but I digress.
I'd like to feature a 100% bone stock version of something that could have
easily been hand-crafted by Bernard himself, back in the 30's. Of course
since he pioneered the Corvair for use in experimental aviation, I'd like to
see a Corvair powered version too. I'd also like to feature the most
outrageous version available, maybe something with a turbo Sube, constant
speed prop, glass cockpit, what ever. a "modern" version if you will.
And then I'd like to feature something middle of the road; kinda like what
Bernard would design/build today (and still be an Aircamper). hydraulic
brakes, transponder, liberal use of composites or other modern materials,
etc. or something that represents the current builder that's not 100%
concerned about keeping to the plans.
Thanks!!!
Pat Panzera
Editor@ContactMagazine.com
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HelsperSew@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 10:41 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Assembly milestone
Guys,
I have reached a milestone today. I was finally able to bring down my
one-piece wing from the wall and assemble it to the fuselage. Boy does it
feel good. Here are some pics to spur on the others behind me.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Assembly milestone |
Hi Pat,
I will forward this request to Greg Bacon. Greg is the current owner of
Mountain Piet, the turbo-Subaru powered Piet that is undergoing a wing
reconstruction after a landing mishap.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: Patrick Panzera
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Monday, December 03, 2007 4:27 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Assembly milestone
Beautiful job Dan, thanks for sharing.
Gang,
In the current issue of CONTACT! Magazine, our very own Oscar Zuniga
presented an entertaining and well received article that explores the
idea of building a Henderson Longster as a part 103 legal ultralight.
Although our magazine usually doesn't delve into ultralights, I received
a lot of mail asking for more "low and slow" and antique style aircraft,
like what we use to get in To Fly.
So with that, and motivated by Dan's inspirational photos, I'd like to
ask the group to help me put together several Pietenpol articles that
might help to showcase the gambit of creativity and craftsmanship spread
throughout this community.
I'm sure if I ask nicely, OZ can help spearhead this effort, and with
that, maybe we can expand the scope of CONTACT! to include a regular
presentation representing open cockpits and flying wires.
I would most likely want to feature a minimum of three-four
aircraft/projects. Unlike most magazines that think featuring something
incomplete is taboo, we feel that our readers break down to the kind of
"mechanics" (for a lack of a better word) that would love nothing more
than spending an afternoon in a fellow builder's hanger, proposing over
the work in progress. but I digress.
I'd like to feature a 100% bone stock version of something that could
have easily been hand-crafted by Bernard himself, back in the 30's. Of
course since he pioneered the Corvair for use in experimental aviation,
I'd like to see a Corvair powered version too. I'd also like to feature
the most outrageous version available, maybe something with a turbo
Sube, constant speed prop, glass cockpit, what ever. a "modern" version
if you will.
And then I'd like to feature something middle of the road; kinda like
what Bernard would design/build today (and still be an Aircamper).
hydraulic brakes, transponder, liberal use of composites or other modern
materials, etc. or something that represents the current builder that's
not 100% concerned about keeping to the plans.
Thanks!!!
Pat Panzera
Editor@ContactMagazine.com
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
HelsperSew@aol.com
Sent: Saturday, December 01, 2007 10:41 AM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Assembly milestone
Guys,
I have reached a milestone today. I was finally able to bring down my
one-piece wing from the wall and assemble it to the fuselage. Boy does
it feel good. Here are some pics to spur on the others behind me.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
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