Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:43 AM - jury strut bracket placement (TGSTONE236@aol.com)
2. 05:34 AM - Re: jury strut bracket placement (gcardinal)
3. 06:56 AM - Re: jury strut bracket placement (Don Emch)
4. 11:11 AM - Aileron bearings (Jack T. Textor)
5. 11:41 AM - cowling construction (Oscar Zuniga)
6. 11:52 AM - Fly in at DLZ next summer (shad bell)
7. 05:25 PM - Re: cowling construction (Gordon Bowen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | jury strut bracket placement |
Since the original plans doesn't have anything on jury struts. What is the
distance between the jury strut bracket and the wing strut bracket?
Ted Stone
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| Subject: | Re: jury strut bracket placement |
On NX18235 the jury struts are at the mid-point of the lift strut. Some
people will recommend placing the jury strut slightly offset from the
mid-point to avoid harmonic resonance but in 120 hours of flying I have
yet to notice any lift strut vibration with the jury strut located at
the mid-point.
Greg Cardinal
Minneapolis
----- Original Message -----
From: TGSTONE236@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 4:33 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: jury strut bracket placement
Since the original plans doesn't have anything on jury struts. What is
the distance between the jury strut bracket and the wing strut bracket?
Ted Stone
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: jury strut bracket placement |
Ted,
I did the same as Greg. I also haven't noticed anything, vibration or otherwise,
out of the ordinary. I did this because it is what Frank Pavliga did and he
has about 1400 hours. One of the really nice things about the Piet is that
there are so many high time ships out there that are so well proven.
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=152321#152321
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| Subject: | Aileron bearings |
Good morning all,
For the aileron bearings outer housing, where they attach to the spar,
Bernard shows 3/16" holes for an AN3 bolt. I was planning on drilling
for an AN4, but doing so will complicate the welding of the lugs. It
looks like I would have to weld the lug on much wider than the width of
the pulley to clear the bolt head. Any thoughts would be appreciated.
Jack
www.textors.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | cowling construction |
I'm with Gordon and the others... it makes more sense to add stiffeners whe
re needed rather than making the whole piece heavier with multiple layers o
f glass to add stiffness. It was easy to do with the belly of my Flying Sq
uirrel, for example... look at the 4th through 6th photos on this page - ht
tp://www.flysquirrel.net/update.html
All you have to do is lay some foam wedges inbetween the layers, or even ad
d them after you've made the cowling and pull it from the mold to see where
you need additional stiffness. It's amazing how much rigidity that 3rd di
mension can add to a flat layup.
One other thing that people have told me is to use peel-ply on your layup (
assuming you're laying up over a male plug). It absorbs excess resin as we
ll as providing a much nicer surface to do final finishing on once you peel
it off. Work in a warm area, too... working when it's cool means you'll b
e using more resin to get it to wet out the plies. Use your squeegee. Epo
xy resin is heavy!
Oscar ZunigaSan Antonio, TXmailto: taildrags@hotmail.comwebsite at http://w
ww.flysquirrel.net
Message 6
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| Subject: | Fly in at DLZ next summer |
Hi Guys, Dad went to a eaa meeting today for the fly in at DLZ on August 16-17
2008. Dad is wanting to try and get some piets there. It would be great to
get 4-5 there if possible. I am signed up to take young eagle rides, and get
some kids a ride in a "real airplane". The Yankee Lady b-17 is supposed to be
there, some of Dick Packer's Stearmans ( 3 of them I think) and the usual RV
crowd. I will extend an invite to anyone who would like to camp out behind
my hanger at Chapman Field, it's about a 20 min flight from DLZ. By the way I
went for a weather reporting flight in the Piet today (30 degrees) right before
the snow came in, withdraw is a hell of a thing. 10 min after landing it
was a white out. Only bad thing is the field was not a frozzen as I thought,
now it looks like a swamp buggy with all the mud. Oh well a small price to pay.
So if any of you Ohio guys would like to fly to Delaware OH (30 miles north
of Columbus) this summer let me know.
110 hrs on NX92 GB and counting
Shad
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Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: cowling construction |
Oscar,
Nice pics, looks nice and lightweight. To quote a great
designer/aviator "if you throw it up in the air and it comes back down,
don't put it on your airplane". Stippling and squeeging out as much
resin as possible thru the peel ply works wonders for keeping the
laminate lightweight, using paper towels or rags to sop-up/wipe off the
excess resin you can work out thru the peel ply.. At Boeing composites
and Bigboys, they put down a peel ply, then a perforated teflon film,
then a "baby blanket" (the polyester stuff quilts are filled with), then
vacuum bag, put it autoclave under 4-5 atmospheres pressure. This
squeezes out the absolute most excess resin out of the laminate.
Physical testing indicates about 38% resin content maximizes the
laminates properties without being too poor in resin content. Without
autoclave pressure, it's impossible for a homebuilder to get the
laminate too resin poor, it's always gonna be a little resin rich. Once
you get over 40% resin content you contribute nothing to the laminates
physical properties, the props actually start to decline and you're only
adding more weight to the plane.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: Oscar Zuniga
To: Pietenpol List
Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 7:13 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: cowling construction
I'm with Gordon and the others... it makes more sense to add
stiffeners where needed rather than making the whole piece heavier with
multiple layers of glass to add stiffness. It was easy to do with the
belly of my Flying Squirrel, for example... look at the 4th through 6th
photos on this page -
http://www.flysquirrel.net/update.html
All you have to do is lay some foam wedges inbetween the layers, or
even add them after you've made the cowling and pull it from the mold to
see where you need additional stiffness. It's amazing how much rigidity
that 3rd dimension can add to a flat layup.
One other thing that people have told me is to use peel-ply on your
layup (assuming you're laying up over a male plug). It absorbs excess
resin as well as providing a much nicer surface to do final finishing on
once you peel it off. Work in a warm area, too... working when it's
cool means you'll be using more resin to get it to wet out the plies.
Use your squeegee. Epoxy resin is heavy!
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
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