Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:03 AM - Re: Da Vinci/Magee/Pietenpol Motor Mounts (HelsperSew@aol.com)
2. 02:05 AM - Re: Compression struts (HelsperSew@aol.com)
3. 04:19 AM - Re: Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote ()
4. 05:21 AM - Re: Compression struts (Jack T. Textor)
5. 06:47 AM - Stearman-type fuel gauge (Oscar Zuniga)
6. 09:46 AM - Stearman-type fuel gauge (santiago morete)
7. 01:11 PM - Stearman-type fuel gauge (Oscar Zuniga)
8. 01:50 PM - Re: Or even five to seven-hundred feet AGL (John Hofmann)
9. 02:02 PM - Fw: FlyChallenger: Bad weather joke (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
10. 02:15 PM - Re: Stearman-type fuel gauge (Steve Eldredge)
11. 02:17 PM - Quotes--Redford to Axel (Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC])
12. 02:50 PM - Drag/antidrag wire locations (Ben Charvet)
13. 05:05 PM - Re: Stearman-type fuel gauge (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
14. 08:28 PM - Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations (gcardinal)
Message 1
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Subject: | Re: Da Vinci/Magee/Pietenpol Motor Mounts |
Fred,
I believe the third one is meant to be a wood screw. That is what I did on
mine.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
Message 2
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Subject: | Re: Compression struts |
Jack,
I don't understand why your spars are not the same height. I made mine
exactly the same height.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)
Message 3
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Subject: | Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote |
I never use a chute.I can't see the logic in bailing out of a perfectly
good airplane such as the Piet.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of MikeD
Sent: February 8, 2008 3:38 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote
> Those words were written by John Gillespie Magee in his famous poem
"High Flight." Magee was an American flying with the RAF in WW2 and was
killed in action.
>
> FW Beseler
>
He was serving at the time, but ironically what killed him was a midair
between his Spit and an RAF trainer. Apparently a witness saw him
struggle out of his Spit but was not high enough to get the 'chute out.
Makes me wonder at the sanity of wearing a chute in a Piet, esp. in the
front cockpit. I would hope we're at about 12,000' AGL if I ever have to
bail out..
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163049#163049
Message 4
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Subject: | Compression struts |
Thanks Dan, you answered my question. I beveled the top of each spar to
avoid the "wedgies". The attached drawing shows how I constructed mine.
It sound like I should place my struts based on the smaller spar
dimension of 41/2 inches, which should keep them parallel. You know as
one gets further along in construction, you hope not to make an error
that would require a massive redo, which is why this list is so helpful!
Thanks,
Jack
www.textors.com
Jack,
I don't understand why your spars are not the same height. I made mine
exactly the same height.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
________________________________
Message 5
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Subject: | Stearman-type fuel gauge |
Well, I made some sketches based on Steve's description, scanned them and copied
Steve's narrative to go along with the sketches. Here's the webpage:
http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/sightgage.html
I sure hope Steve will review this for accuracy because some of it was my "creative
inventing", such as the pivot hinge. Other details weren't 100% clear so
I sort of drew it up as I thought it was intended, but I have NOT fabricated
one of these to see if I got the drawing correct. Pretty cool! The best part
is that it is flight-tested and now also proven crash-worthy ;o)
The lead-in photo on the webpage doesn't show a whole lot of detail about the sight
gauge but it speaks volumes about the fun you can have in a Pietenpol!
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 6
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Subject: | Stearman-type fuel gauge |
Maybe this can help someone. This is the fuel gauge built by Larry Williams, veeery
simple. According Larry, designed by Steve Eldredge.
Saludos
Santiago
---------------------------------
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Ahora encontrar pareja es mucho ms fcil, prob el nuevo Yahoo! Encuentros.
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Message 7
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Subject: | Stearman-type fuel gauge |
Thanks to Santiago Morete, I've gotten the detail of Larry Williams' adaptation/simplification of Steve Eldredge's gauge and added it to the webpage I made: http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/sightgage.html
Great stuff!
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 8
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Subject: | Re: Or even five to seven-hundred feet AGL |
"You're a good loser son, and I like good losers."
You may get Mikee and I started. These quotes are funnier while
watching "The Blue Max" on the hangar door at Brodhead with a smokey,
single malt scotch and some popcorn.
From one of the "Brathead Bunch."
Do not Archive
On Feb 8, 2008, at 3:09 PM, Cuy, Michael D. (GRC-RXD0)[ASRC] wrote:
>
> Good one John. How about Axel Olsson saying "I didn't like it very
> much"
>
> to Waldo regarding his first taste of wingwalking ?
>
>
> <WaldoHandOnLandingWire.jpg>
Message 9
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Subject: | Fwd: FlyChallenger: Bad weather joke |
Message 10
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Subject: | Stearman-type fuel gauge |
I'm still here, but was out of touch over the weekend, besides, who would w
ant ideas for a fuel gauge solution that cost only $5 and can be made from
parts you have already strewn about your garage?
Thought so.
So here is the bill of materials (from 10 years ago, so work with me...)
36" of welding rod
8" of 1/2"rigid copper plumbing pipe
1 1/2" copper coupler (the kind you slide two pieces of pipe into before so
ldering)
1-1/2" copper washer
1' clear pvc tubing
A cork
White spray paint
Safety wire
3/8" barbed fitting
A short AN5 or 6 bolt or a drain valve (optional for the deluxe model)
The copper washer is soldered to the union fitting and then cut off to make
a hat like fitting which can be mated to the bottom of the tank. Its purp
ose is to be a receptacle for the length of copper pipe, which acts as a pr
otection to the site gauge itself. I carved away a window in the pilot fac
ing side of the copper pipe. Paint the inside of the copper pipe white for
good contrast with the indicator.
My install was similar to the illustration, with a few changes. I added a
2" diameter x 1/4" reinforcement to the bottom of the tank for the barbed f
itting to screw into. I used 4 machine screws fastened through the copper
fitting and tank bottom with proseal to prevent leaks. I'm sure Larry's sol
utions works too, but I also put a cork on a length of welding rod, hinged
on the rear wall of the tank, horizontal to the bottom of the tank. From t
hat length of rod I suspended the indicator rod, aligned with the indicator
hole. This way I can more accurately estimate the fuel level (one hopes)
at different attitudes.
Some notes after using it for ten years:
Use stainless rod if you can. Moisture will eventually rust the welding ro
d. The PVC tube will harden and become opaque over time. I replaced mine
at about 8 years, and employed the white paint for added visibility. I put
a drain in the bottom of the gauge. Water will collect there, along with
some sludge. Use the safety wire to assure good leak-proof seal on both en
ds of the pvc tubing. (barb, and drain ends). Make sure the indicator does
n't bottom out on the drain. The PVC will shrink over time and make you wo
nder how much fuel you really have. Give it an extra 1/2". Add fuel in kn
own quantities and mark your gauge. Always, always fly by time, not by gau
ge readings. Polish the copper at annual. It looks cool.
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stearman-type fuel gauge
With all this talk of Stearman-type fuel gauges, I'm surprised that Steve E
ldredge didn't pipe up with his comments. He built a clever one for his Pi
et and used to have photos and a narrative of it on his website at BYU (lin
ked from Grant McLaren's BPA website), but that link is now dead. If there
is any interest, I can sketch out what Steve did and copy the narrative te
xt onto a webpage to go with the sketches. I printed out the pictures and
text back when they were on the BPA website but the picture quality is WAY
too low for me to re-scan and I think I can sketch it up fairly accurately.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 11
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Subject: | Quotes--Redford to Axel |
"You're a good loser son, and I like good losers."
And we can't forget the insult to injury line that Axel tells to
Waldo/Redford when he adds "but then again you've probably had lots of
practice."
Redford gets his revenge after removing Axel's wheel nuts (like some of
us straight-axle guys have on our Piets) causing the wheels to fall off
on takeoff.
I read where they installed four casters/rollers under the two ash
blocks under that straight axel gear on each side and Frank Tallman
landed that plane with no wheels on a smooth asphalt landing strip very
gently with no damage to the plane at all.
do not archive
Message 12
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Subject: | Drag/antidrag wire locations |
Hi all,
I'm at about the same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't
want to screw this up because it would set me back months. I used the
drawing in the extended fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the
spars. I drilled the holes per the plans and welded the plate across
the top. Now the hole that the drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach
to is about 1/4 inch below the centerline of the spar. In looking at
the original plans, its not clear if the fitting is centered on the spar
or not. Fortunately if I need to center that hole (the spar isn't
drilled yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the fitting and reweld
it. Better too long than too short.
So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag fittings need to be
centered on the spar, ie will it cause some strange warping if they are
off-center a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?
Thanks in advance
Ben Charvet
Mims Fl
NX866BC
Message 13
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Subject: | Stearman-type fuel gauge |
Steve,
More importantly, what vintage was the cork?.....
Ken H...
Steve Eldredge <steve@byu.edu> wrote:
I'm still here, but was out of touch over the weekend, besides, who would want
ideas for a fuel gauge solution that cost only $5 and can be made from parts
you have already strewn about your garage?
Thought so.
So here is the bill of materials (from 10 years ago, so work with me...)
36" of welding rod
8" of 1/2"rigid copper plumbing pipe
1 1/2" copper coupler (the kind you slide two pieces of pipe into before soldering)
1-1/2" copper washer
1' clear pvc tubing
A cork
White spray paint
Safety wire
3/8" barbed fitting
A short AN5 or 6 bolt or a drain valve (optional for the deluxe model)
The copper washer is soldered to the union fitting and then cut off to make a hat
like fitting which can be mated to the bottom of the tank. Its purpose is to
be a receptacle for the length of copper pipe, which acts as a protection to
the site gauge itself. I carved away a window in the pilot facing side of the
copper pipe. Paint the inside of the copper pipe white for good contrast with
the indicator.
My install was similar to the illustration, with a few changes. I added a 2" diameter
x 1/4" reinforcement to the bottom of the tank for the barbed fitting to
screw into. I used 4 machine screws fastened through the copper fitting and
tank bottom with proseal to prevent leaks. I'm sure Larry's solutions works too,
but I also put a cork on a length of welding rod, hinged on the rear wall of
the tank, horizontal to the bottom of the tank. From that length of rod I suspended
the indicator rod, aligned with the indicator hole. This way I can more
accurately estimate the fuel level (one hopes) at different attitudes.
Some notes after using it for ten years:
Use stainless rod if you can. Moisture will eventually rust the welding rod. The
PVC tube will harden and become opaque over time. I replaced mine at about 8
years, and employed the white paint for added visibility. I put a drain in the
bottom of the gauge. Water will collect there, along with some sludge. Use the
safety wire to assure good leak-proof seal on both ends of the pvc tubing.
(barb, and drain ends). Make sure the indicator doesn't bottom out on the drain.
The PVC will shrink over time and make you wonder how much fuel you really
have. Give it an extra 1/2". Add fuel in known quantities and mark your gauge.
Always, always fly by time, not by gauge readings. Polish the copper at annual.
It looks cool.
Steve E.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:26 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Stearman-type fuel gauge
With all this talk of Stearman-type fuel gauges, I'm surprised that Steve Eldredge
didn't pipe up with his comments. He built a clever one for his Piet and used
to have photos and a narrative of it on his website at BYU (linked from Grant
McLaren's BPA website), but that link is now dead. If there is any interest,
I can sketch out what Steve did and copy the narrative text onto a webpage
to go with the sketches. I printed out the pictures and text back when they were
on the BPA website but the picture quality is WAY too low for me to re-scan
and I think I can sketch it up fairly accurately.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
---------------------------------
Message 14
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Subject: | Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations |
Hi Ben,
Don't sweat 1/4" off center on the drag / anti-drag fittings. Your Pietenpol
won't know the difference.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Ben Charvet" <bcharvet@bellsouth.net>
> Hi all,
> I'm at about the same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't
> want to screw this up because it would set me back months. I used the
> drawing in the extended fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the
> spars. I drilled the holes per the plans and welded the plate across the
> top. Now the hole that the drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach to is
> about 1/4 inch below the centerline of the spar. In looking at the
> original plans, its not clear if the fitting is centered on the spar or
> not. Fortunately if I need to center that hole (the spar isn't drilled
> yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the fitting and reweld it. Better
> too long than too short.
>
> So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag fittings need to be centered
> on the spar, ie will it cause some strange warping if they are off-center
> a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
>
> Ben Charvet
> Mims Fl
> NX866BC
>
>
>
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