Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:36 AM - Re: Rib questions (Phillips, Jack)
2. 07:45 AM - Re: Rib questions (Ryan Mueller)
3. 07:56 AM - Re: Rib questions (Bill Church)
4. 08:22 AM - Re: Rib questions (Rick Holland)
5. 09:46 AM - Re: Rib questions (Ken Chambers)
6. 10:57 AM - wing trailing edge (Oscar Zuniga)
7. 12:38 PM - Re: Rib questions (Ryan Mueller)
8. 12:47 PM - prop for A75 (Oscar Zuniga)
9. 01:05 PM - Re: prop for A75 (Phillips, Jack)
10. 01:20 PM - Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations (Rick Holland)
11. 01:27 PM - Re: Rib questions (Michael Groah)
12. 01:45 PM - Re: Rib questions (Jack T. Textor)
13. 02:46 PM - wing ribs (Dick Navratil)
14. 03:27 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Dick Navratil)
15. 04:05 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Rick Holland)
16. 04:14 PM - Re: prop for A75 (BFD)
17. 04:20 PM - Re: prop for A75 (MikeD)
18. 06:37 PM - Re: Rib questions (Jim Malley)
19. 06:50 PM - Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations (bcharvet@bellsouth.net)
20. 07:56 PM - Re: Rib questions (bcharvet@bellsouth.net)
21. 08:11 PM - Capstrip steaming (chase143)
22. 08:29 PM - Re: Capstrip steaming (Owen Davies)
23. 08:31 PM - Re: Rib questions (Skip Gadd)
24. 08:34 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Dick Navratil)
25. 08:34 PM - Re: Rib questions (Clif Dawson)
26. 08:50 PM - Re: Capstrip steaming (carson)
27. 08:57 PM - Re: Capstrip steaming (carson)
28. 09:10 PM - Re: Rib questions (Rick Holland)
29. 09:14 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Rick Holland)
Message 1
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Ryan,
I found the same thing with my fullsize rib print. I glued it down to plyw
ood and built the jig right on top of it. At the nose of the rib I used 2
=BC" x =BD" pieces glued together rather than buying special =BD" x =BD" ma
terial. One thing I did with my wing that I would NOT do again - I used al
uminum trailing edge material, rather than wood as the plans call out. Whi
le I thought I had the trailing edge secure to the ribs, over time the tens
ion of the fabric has pulled it in (towards the spar) slightly - enough to
cause a little pucker in the fabric at each rib.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Mueller
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:05 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Good evening everyone,
We need a little advice before we proceed with the rib building. I have bee
n going back on forth on which method to use when it comes to jig setup. We
have our base built out of two pieces of 3/8 ply glued together. We also h
ave the full size rib print. I have read numerous posts on how you can't ne
cessarily utilize that print, due to the expansion/contraction of the paper
over time. The only dimension on the print is the 27 3/4" between the rear
of the front spar and the front of the rear spar. When we measure between
those points on the full size print it does actually come out to be 27 3/4"
. I also measured the thickness of the rib at the rear of both spars on the
full size print, and both measurements comes out within 1/16" of the neare
st listed dimensions from the plans (listed as 5 9/16" for the front, 5 9/3
2" for the rear on the plans). I don't know what else to check to ensure th
at the print is good to go. Is there something I'm missing here, or should
we just be able to glue the full size print down and start building the res
t of the jig (instead of lofting all the dimensions)?
One other issue is the difference between the leading edge of the rib in th
e plans, and on the full size print. On the '33 plans it looks like the fro
nt member of the rib that completes the flat nose that the leading edge bol
ts to is a 1/4 x 1/2" piece, just like all the other rib material. On the f
ull size print there is a note there that says "1/2 x1/2 inch block". Shoul
d we get some 1/2 x 1/2" spruce to make the front member, or will the 1/4 x
1/2" shown on the plans be sufficient?
Thanks,
Ryan
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Message 2
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Jack,
I smacked my forehead when I read your suggestion about using two pieces of 1/4
x 1/2. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thank you for pointing that out.
I did catch a post in the archives where you had cautioned against using the aluminum
for the TE. The downside of the aluminum, in addition to the fact that
I have not been able to find a source for the "tongued" TE material shown on the
plans has led us to choose the alternate TE method illustrated on Dwg 5. This
would be where you cut capstrips vertically where they meet in the rear, and
then your trailing edge material is glued to the end of each of the ribs, with
1/16 ply glued to the top and bottom and beveled at the ends. It may be time
consuming, but it does look to be a fairly straightforward way to end up with
a wood TE.
Thank you for your input Jack, it is greatly appreciated. Have a good day,
Ryan
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com> wrote: v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} Ryan,
I found the same thing with my fullsize rib print. I glued it down to plywood
and built the jig right on top of it. At the nose of the rib I used 2 x pieces
glued together rather than buying special x material. One thing I did
with my wing that I would NOT do again I used aluminum trailing edge material,
rather than wood as the plans call out. While I thought I had the trailing
edge secure to the ribs, over time the tension of the fabric has pulled it in
(towards the spar) slightly enough to cause a little pucker in the fabric at
each rib.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
---------------------------------
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Message 3
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Ryan,
Sounds like your full-size print is very close to being true - should be
fine to use it as-is. (Although, lofting the rib profile is no big deal.
Pretty easy to do.) The most important thing is to make all of your ribs
with the same profile. If it's off by 1/16" here or there, it won't
really make a big difference.
Get a can of spray adhesive and spray the wood, and the back side of the
printout, then carefully lay the printout on the wood - making sure you
don't get any wrinkles. Work from one end to the other, and press the
paper down as you go. Then you're ready to start placing your blocks (or
nails, or whatever method you choose - there are a lot of different
approaches one can take).
As for the leading edge piece, I went with the 1/2" x 1/2" when I built
my ribs. But I also ripped my own wood, so it was no big deal to cut up
a bit of 1/2" x 1/2". I imagine the 1/4" x 1/2" would work fine, but
there was likely a reason BHP changed to 1/2" x 1/2". Why don't you just
laminate two pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" capstrip to make up the 1/2"
thickness? That's what I did for my first rib that I built to test my
jig, before I purchased my Sitka.
Bill C.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece of thin
plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking (I used the
plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe
I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You
can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I
would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings
and compared performance so what do I know?
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 8:46 AM, Bill Church <eng@canadianrogers.com> wrote:
> Ryan,
>
> Sounds like your full-size print is very close to being true - should be
> fine to use it as-is. (Although, lofting the rib profile is no big deal.
> Pretty easy to do.) The most important thing is to make all of your ribs
> with the same profile. If it's off by 1/16" here or there, it won't really
> make a big difference.
> Get a can of spray adhesive and spray the wood, and the back side of the
> printout, then carefully lay the printout on the wood - making sure you
> don't get any wrinkles. Work from one end to the other, and press the paper
> down as you go. Then you're ready to start placing your blocks (or nails, or
> whatever method you choose - there are a lot of different approaches one can
> take).
> As for the leading edge piece, I went with the 1/2" x 1/2" when I built my
> ribs. But I also ripped my own wood, so it was no big deal to cut up a bit
> of 1/2" x 1/2". I imagine the 1/4" x 1/2" would work fine, but there was
> likely a reason BHP changed to 1/2" x 1/2". Why don't you just laminate two
> pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" capstrip to make up the 1/2" thickness? That's what I
> did for my first rib that I built to test my jig, before I purchased my
> Sitka.
>
> Bill C.
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
Sure wish we could get Frank Paviglia (hope I spelled that right) to tell us
about his recent flight in a Piet with a Ribblett wing. A few weeks back
someone passed along Frank's opinion that the plane seemed "pitch sensitive"
but it would nice to know a little more.
Anyone know Frank well enough to call and ask him for more details?
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 10:17 AM, Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
> One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece of thin
> plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking (I used the
> plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half longways).
>
> And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and
> maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
> alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You
> can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I
> would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings
> and compared performance so what do I know?
>
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 8:46 AM, Bill Church <eng@canadianrogers.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Ryan,
> >
> > Sounds like your full-size print is very close to being true - should be
> > fine to use it as-is. (Although, lofting the rib profile is no big deal.
> > Pretty easy to do.) The most important thing is to make all of your ribs
> > with the same profile. If it's off by 1/16" here or there, it won't really
> > make a big difference.
> > Get a can of spray adhesive and spray the wood, and the back side of the
> > printout, then carefully lay the printout on the wood - making sure you
> > don't get any wrinkles. Work from one end to the other, and press the paper
> > down as you go. Then you're ready to start placing your blocks (or nails, or
> > whatever method you choose - there are a lot of different approaches one can
> > take).
> > As for the leading edge piece, I went with the 1/2" x 1/2" when I built
> > my ribs. But I also ripped my own wood, so it was no big deal to cut up a
> > bit of 1/2" x 1/2". I imagine the 1/4" x 1/2" would work fine, but there was
> > likely a reason BHP changed to 1/2" x 1/2". Why don't you just laminate two
> > pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" capstrip to make up the 1/2" thickness? That's what I
> > did for my first rib that I built to test my jig, before I purchased my
> > Sitka.
> >
> > Bill C.
> >
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> > *
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> ObjectAge Ltd.
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | wing trailing edge |
I know it's been said many times, many ways- but Mike Cuy has a nifty trailing edge detail that is fairly simple and uses lumber store material. His detail sketch is at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/trailingedge.jpg
Mikeee continues to rake in the royalties for all these details ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we were considering,
but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the big-box home improvement
stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided to keep it simple and just cut
out some small squares of wax paper and slip them under each joint as we glue
up the ribs. Thanks for the tip though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound interesting
we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll build with a standard
Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those who try out the Ribblett.
Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote: One other thing you can do when making
your rib jig is lay a piece of thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the
glue from sticking (I used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame
cut in half longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe I
won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett alternative Pietenpol
airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You can read about
it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I would go for it,
but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings and compared performance
so what do I know?
Rick
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 8
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Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which engines?
I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a 72x38 or 40 is
indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full rated RPM (and HP). I'd
also be interested if anyone has such a prop available.
Thanks.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 9
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Oscar, I've got a Sensenich 72 x 42 on my A65 currently. I get about
2100 RPM static with it, and on climb out it gets to about 2250, so I'm
not quite getting rated power. I've got a St Croix 74 x 36 that I have
been meaning to try for a year now. One weekend soon I will swap them
and compare the numbers. I'll publish what I find.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 2:03 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which
engines? I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a
72x38 or 40 is indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full
rated RPM (and HP). I'd also be interested if anyone has such a prop
available.
Thanks.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please notify
the sender
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Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations |
Ben
When you mentioned welding the plate across the top of the lift strut attach
fittings it reminded me of a small problem I had which may or may not be an
issue for you. My two .090 side fittings (that run on either side of the
spar) stuck up maybe 1/4 - 3/8" above the spar. And I then welded the tops
of these together with a small horizontal piece of .090. Problem was after
prime and paint I realized that the tops of the fitting was a hair above the
tops of the ribs (so the covering fabric would be in contact). Had to do a
bit of grinding and repainting.
Rick
On Feb 11, 2008 3:47 PM, Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm at about the same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't
> want to screw this up because it would set me back months. I used the
> drawing in the extended fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the
> spars. I drilled the holes per the plans and welded the plate across
> the top. Now the hole that the drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach
> to is about 1/4 inch below the centerline of the spar. In looking at
> the original plans, its not clear if the fitting is centered on the spar
> or not. Fortunately if I need to center that hole (the spar isn't
> drilled yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the fitting and reweld
> it. Better too long than too short.
>
> So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag fittings need to be
> centered on the spar, ie will it cause some strange warping if they are
> off-center a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
>
> Ben Charvet
> Mims Fl
> NX866BC
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
I took a bit and drilled holes, well, recesses really as I didnt' go all the way
through at each glue point. This kept me from having to deal with the wax paper
and was cheaper than using acrylic sheets. I guess you could drill all the
way through if you wanted. I made my jig from two strips of 3/4 glued together
so I just drilled part of the way through. It's overkill but it stays straight!
Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@yahoo.com> wrote:
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we were considering,
but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the big-box home improvement
stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided to keep it simple and just cut
out some small squares of wax paper and slip them under each joint as we glue
up the ribs. Thanks for the tip though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound interesting
we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll build with a standard
Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those who try out the Ribblett.
Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote: One other thing you can do when making
your rib jig is lay a piece of thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep
the glue from sticking (I used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture
frame cut in half longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe I
won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett alternative Pietenpol
airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You can read about
it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I would go for it,
but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings and compared performance
so what do I know?
Rick
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 12
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Ryan,
Would suggest a =BE inch hole drilled through your jig, below each
joint. You can do smaller cut-out at the nose and tail. It worked
great for me and allows you to push the rib out from behind. I've
attached a picture, or there are some on my site.
Good luck,
Jack
www.textors.com
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we were
considering, but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the big-box
home improvement stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided to keep
it simple and just cut out some small squares of wax paper and slip them
under each joint as we glue up the ribs. Thanks for the tip though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound
interesting we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll
build with a standard Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those
who try out the Ribblett. Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece of
thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking (I
used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half
longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and
maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also.
You can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib
building I would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet
with both wings and compared performance so what do I know?
Rick
________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
Message 13
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I attached a pic of my set up. I bought a blemished interior door for
$5 and set up jig for one rib. After making one, I duplicated twice,
now I make 3 at a time. If anyone is wondering, the sockets hold the
glued gusset plates in place so I dont have to staple.
Dick N.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel |
Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I bought
some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go with
Douglas fir again.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
> Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're planning
> to do that to our A-75.
>
> - another Mike
>
> --------
> Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel |
You mean you will go with Douglas fir TE when you build your THIRD
Pietenpol? (You can put the 9 cylinder Rotec on that one).
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Dick Navratil <horzpool@goldengate.net>
wrote:
> horzpool@goldengate.net>
>
> Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I bought
> some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go with
> Douglas fir again.
> Dick N.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
>
> >
> > Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're
> planning
> > to do that to our A-75.
> >
> > - another Mike
> >
> > --------
> > Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: prop for A75 |
Usually I think the a75 has a 70 x 38 prop
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 1:02 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
>
>
> Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which
> engines? I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a
> 72x38 or 40 is indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full rated
> RPM (and HP). I'd also be interested if anyone has such a prop available.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: prop for A75 |
taildrags(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which engines?
I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a 72x38 or 40
is indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full rated RPM (and HP).
I'd also be interested if anyone has such a prop available.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Yes that is true - if you load the 75 as you would the 65, you will not realize
all the power available. At 65 cruise rpm the 75 produces about the same horsepower,
therefore logically it will spin it about the same rpm. You need to reduce
load with pitch, diameter, or both. I am also in the market for those same
props, my first choice being the 38 pitch.
Mike
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164091#164091
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
I would avoid wax paper, it contaminates the wood for gluing the other
gusset and for a good varnishing job later. Cut up some squares of sheet
protectors available at office supply stores. Holes under the joints
does the trick as well.
Jim Malley
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Mueller
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we
were considering, but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the
big-box home improvement stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided
to keep it simple and just cut out some small squares of wax paper and
slip them under each joint as we glue up the ribs. Thanks for the tip
though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound
interesting we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll
build with a standard Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those
who try out the Ribblett. Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece
of thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking
(I used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half
longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again...
and maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the
Ribblett alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are
available also. You can read about it in a archives. If I was just about
to start rib building I would go for it, but I have not yet built and
flown a Piet with both wings and compared performance so what do I know?
Rick
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better friend, newshound, and
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations |
That's what mine would look like if I centered the middle hole (for the drag wire
bracket) on the spar. I assume the plate is welded across the top to rest
on the top of the spar to give extra support. I'm going to remake mine to dimensions
to fit my spars. I am using laminated 3/4 inch Doug Fir spars, and I
want to be sure that the bolts don't go through one of my lamination seams. At
this stage of the game I should have known to check all this before drilling
holes.... All in all I haven't had to do too many things twice, so this is not
a big deal.. I just need to wait a few days for the new steel to arrive.
Ben
-------------- Original message from "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>: --------------
Ben
When you mentioned welding the plate across the top of the lift strut attach fittings
it reminded me of a small problem I had which may or may not be an issue
for you. My two .090 side fittings (that run on either side of the spar) stuck
up maybe 1/4 - 3/8" above the spar. And I then welded the tops of these together
with a small horizontal piece of .090. Problem was after prime and paint
I realized that the tops of the fitting was a hair above the tops of the ribs
(so the covering fabric would be in contact). Had to do a bit of grinding and
repainting.
Rick
On Feb 11, 2008 3:47 PM, Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Hi all,
I'm at about the same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't
want to screw this up because it would set me back months. I used the
drawing in the extended fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the
spars. I drilled the holes per the plans and welded the plate across
the top. Now the hole that the drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach
to is about 1/4 inch below the centerline of the spar. In looking at
the original plans, its not clear if the fitting is centered on the spar
or not. Fortunately if I need to center that hole (the spar isn't
drilled yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the fitting and reweld
it. Better too long than too short.
So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag fittings need to be
centered on the spar, ie will it cause some strange warping if they are
off-center a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
<html>
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<DIV></DIV>
<P>That's what mine would look like if I centered the middle hole (for the drag
wire bracket) on the spar. I assume the plate is welded across the top
to rest on the top of the spar to give extra support. I'm going to remake
mine to dimensions to fit my spars. I am using laminated 3/4 inch Doug
Fir spars, and I want to be sure that the bolts don't go through one of my lamination
seams. At this stage of the game I should have known to check all
this before drilling holes.... All in all I haven't had to do too many
things twice, so this is not a big deal.. I just need to wait a few days
for the new steel to arrive.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Ben<BR></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message from "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>:
-------------- <BR><BR>Ben<BR><BR>When you mentioned welding the plate
across the top of the lift strut attach fittings it reminded me of a small
problem I had which may or may not be an issue for you. My two .090 side fittings
(that run on either side of the spar) stuck up maybe 1/4 - 3/8" above the
spar. And I then welded the tops of these together with a small horizontal piece
of .090. Problem was after prime and paint I realized that the tops of the
fitting was a hair above the tops of the ribs (so the covering fabric would be
in contact). Had to do a bit of grinding and repainting.<BR><BR>Rick<BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Feb 11, 2008 3:47 PM, Ben Charvet <<A href="mailto:bcharvet@bellsouth.net" target=_blank>bcharvet@bellsouth.net</A>> wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid">--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: Ben Charvet <<A href="mailto:bcharvet@bellsouth.net" target=_blank>bcharvet@bellsouth.net</A>><BR><BR>Hi all,<BR>I'm at about the same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't<BR>want to screw this up because it would set me back months. I used the<BR>drawing in the extended fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the<BR>spars. I drilled the holes per the plans and welded the plate across<BR>the top. Now the hole that the drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach<BR>to is about 1/4 inch below the centerline of the spar. In looking at<BR>the original plans, its not clear if the fitting is centered on the spar<BR>or not. Fortunately if I need to center that hole (the spar isn't<BR>drilled yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the fitting and reweld<BR>it. Be
tter t
oo long than too short.<BR><BR>So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag
fittings need to be<BR>centered on the spar, ie will it cause some strange warping
if they are<BR>off-center a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?<BR><BR
clear=all><BR>-- <BR>Rick Holland<BR>ObjectAge Ltd.<BR>Castle Rock,
Colorado <PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
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</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
I just cut pieces out of a plastic grocery bag and put them under each joint in
my jig. The jig was made of two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood screwed together
with drywall screws. The grocery bag plastic peels off very easily and was free.
Ben
<html>
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<body>
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<DIV></DIV>
<P><BR>I just cut pieces out of a plastic grocery bag and put them under each joint
in my jig. The jig was made of two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood screwed
together with drywall screws. The grocery bag plastic peels off
very easily and was free.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Ben</P>
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
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</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Capstrip steaming |
Hello all. This my first posting. I am presently building my rib jigs, but I am
thinking ahead to the steaming process and building the jig for bending the top
capstrip. However I don't find anything written about the bottom. My question
is this: Is there a need to steam and form the bottom capstrips? My guess is
yes, because there is substantial curve, especially in the front portion. Any
guidance would be greatly apprecaited.
Thanks all.
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164124#164124
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
chase143 wrote:
> Is there a need to steam and form the bottom capstrips?
Ha! I think this is my first posting too, unless I wrote in a long time
ago and have forgotten it. And you have asked the one question I am
qualified to answer.
None of my ribs (five, count them!) required steaming to form the bottom
capstrip.
As for the top ones, I just put the ends in hot water and left them
overnight. It seemed easier than steaming, given that I didn't have a
steamer and did have a big tin can.
I really have to get this project under way again.
Owen
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
Since you brought it up Rick, I got the coordinates for the GA30U-612 from Bill
Rewey. When I lofted it out the T.E. looks real thick, actually .70". There is
a note on the coordinate page that "the 612 airfoil has a sharp T.E. -- The
top rear coordinates have been increased very slightly to provide a 0.7" T.E.
which will be more dent resistant"
Anyone who has lofted this or looked at the full size rib drawing, does the T.E.
look kind of thick to you?
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
Sent: 2/14/2008 11:25:26 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe I
won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett alternative Pietenpol
airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You can read about
it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I would go for it,
but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings and compared performance
so what do I know?
Rick
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel |
Rick
I am now working on a Volmer VJ 22 amphib, also all wood, 22 of 34 wing
ribs done. We will be assembling wings at SNF this spring.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
You mean you will go with Douglas fir TE when you build your THIRD
Pietenpol? (You can put the 9 cylinder Rotec on that one).
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Dick Navratil
<horzpool@goldengate.net> wrote:
<horzpool@goldengate.net>
Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I
bought
some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go
with
Douglas fir again.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
> Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're
planning
> to do that to our A-75.
>
> - another Mike
>
> --------
> Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
Ten mil poly
Clif
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we
were considering, but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the
big-box home improvement stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided
to keep it simple and just cut out some small squares of wax paper and
slip them under each joint as we glue up the ribs. Thanks for the tip
though.
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Steve
I have only built my ribs and tail so far but I did bend the bottom cap first The
first rib I built popped at the front so after that I bent the bottom ones
first,all I did was to use the same bending jig but not bend them all the way
the pic attached shows bending for top cap for the bottom ones I didn't clamp
them down I just used the clamp to weight them down to about 8 inches off the
tail of the jig,It worked well for me as only the front needs a little bending.
Hope this helps it is the first time that I have been able to give back to the
list.
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164142#164142
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/peitenpol_037_628.jpg
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Sorry Steve
Here is also a pic of the way I softened my timber I used a 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe
caped at one end filled with boiling water for 45 min
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164147#164147
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/peitenpol_015_783.jpg
Message 28
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| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
Hey Skip
I have have the full size 612 drawing in front of me now, the trailing edge
piece is 1 1/4" wide and goes from 3/8" height to 1/8" at the end. Looks
almost identical to the original rib TE. Are you thinking of building a 612
wing?
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 7:44 PM, Skip Gadd <skipgadd@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Since you brought it up Rick, I got the coordinates for the GA30U-612
> from Bill Rewey. When I lofted it out the T.E. looks real thick, actually
> .70". There is a note on the coordinate page that "the 612 airfoil has a
> sharp T.E. -- The top rear coordinates have been increased very slightly
> to provide a 0.7" T.E. which will be more dent resistant"
> Anyone who has lofted this or looked at the full size rib drawing, does
> the T.E. look kind of thick to you?
> Skip
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
> *To: *pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* 2/14/2008 11:25:26 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
>
> And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and
> maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
> alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You
> can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I
> would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings
> and compared performance so what do I know?
>
> Rick
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 29
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| Subject: | Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel |
Nice work Dick, I will stop by for a look and say hi at SNF.
Rick
do not archive
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 8:45 PM, Dick Navratil <horzpool@goldengate.net>
wrote:
> Rick
> I am now working on a Volmer VJ 22 amphib, also all wood, 22 of 34 wing
> ribs done. We will be assembling wings at SNF this spring.
> Dick
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
> *To:* pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 14, 2008 5:51 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
> You mean you will go with Douglas fir TE when you build your THIRD
> Pietenpol? (You can put the 9 cylinder Rotec on that one).
>
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Dick Navratil <horzpool@goldengate.net>
> wrote:
>
> > horzpool@goldengate.net>
> >
> > Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I
> > bought
> > some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go
> > with
> > Douglas fir again.
> > Dick N.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're
> > planning
> > > to do that to our A-75.
> > >
> > > - another Mike
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> ObjectAge Ltd.
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
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