Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:03 AM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (Glenn Thomas)
2. 04:21 AM - Re: prop for A75 ()
3. 04:25 AM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (HelsperSew@aol.com)
4. 07:24 AM - Re: Rib Questions (tbyh@aol.com)
5. 07:25 AM - Rib Question (tbyh@aol.com)
6. 07:37 AM - Re: Possible engine alternative (TOPGUN)
7. 09:11 AM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (Rick Holland)
8. 09:49 AM - Re: Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote (Rick Holland)
9. 09:59 AM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (Ryan Mueller)
10. 10:07 AM - Re: Capstrip steaming (chase143)
11. 10:15 AM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (HelsperSew@aol.com)
12. 10:25 AM - Re: Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote (Ryan Mueller)
13. 10:42 AM - Re: Rib Question (AMsafetyC@aol.com)
14. 11:21 AM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (Ryan Mueller)
15. 11:24 AM - Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote (MikeD)
16. 01:21 PM - Tail Wheel (Michael Groah)
17. 01:49 PM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (ALAN LYSCARS)
18. 03:41 PM - Re: Tail Wheel (Ben Charvet)
19. 06:22 PM - Flighttime Radio Show (Brian Kraut)
20. 06:46 PM - Re: prop for A75 (MikeD)
21. 06:46 PM - Re: Rib questions (Skip Gadd)
22. 07:46 PM - Re: Re: Capstrip steaming (Glenn Thomas)
23. 08:22 PM - Re: Airfoil comparison (John Woods)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Here's how I did mine. Mounting the bender on the wall got it out of the
way too.
http://www.flyingwood.com/index.asp?page=16&filter=0
http://www.flyingwood.com/index.asp?page=12&filter=0
I found the steamer worked better if I put a wine bottle full of water in,
let it heat up, and then kept the steamer going with the capstrip in the
wine bottle for about 30 minutes.
On 2/14/08, carson <carsonvella@yahoo.com.au> wrote:
>
>
> Steve
> I have only built my ribs and tail so far but I did bend the bottom cap
> first The first rib I built popped at the front so after that I bent the
> bottom ones first,all I did was to use the same bending jig but not bend
> them all the way the pic attached shows bending for top cap for the bottom
> ones I didn't clamp them down I just used the clamp to weight them down to
> about 8 inches off the tail of the jig,It worked well for me as only the
> front needs a little bending.
> Hope this helps it is the first time that I have been able to give back to
> the list.
> Carson
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164142#164142
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/peitenpol_037_628.jpg
>
>
--
Glenn Thomas
Storrs, CT
http://www.flyingwood.com
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
I've been using a 72 X 42 on my 80 hp Franklin.I was always wondering if
I could use something that could give me more gas milage.(maybe even
more speed)I seem to go through the gas quite quickly but then that
could be because I have the carb set for rich.I was told this is the
best for low altitude flying.Adjust when flying over 3000 ft.I very
seldom get over 3000.I like the view at low and slow.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
Phillips, Jack
Sent: February 14, 2008 3:59 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
<Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com>
Oscar, I've got a Sensenich 72 x 42 on my A65 currently. I get about
2100 RPM static with it, and on climb out it gets to about 2250, so I'm
not quite getting rated power. I've got a St Croix 74 x 36 that I have
been meaning to try for a year now. One weekend soon I will swap them
and compare the numbers. I'll publish what I find.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 2:03 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which
engines? I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a
72x38 or 40 is indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full
rated RPM (and HP). I'd also be interested if anyone has such a prop
available.
Thanks.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error,
please notify the sender
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands
- Norsk - Portuguese
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Hi all,
I have been reading all the posts regarding cap strip steaming. I did not
discover this list until after I had all my ribs done. When I began rib
assembly, I tried the first one without steaming anything and it did not break,
so I
just continued on with the rest, only once having the top cap strip break.
Then I went to Brodhead and was told by one old-timer that sometimes the cap
strips will break AFTER the airplane is complete and flying. This scared me,
but I did not want to start over, so I surmised that if I just soaked the
noses of all my rids in a bucket overnight, this would relieve the stresses. I
did this, and observed that two of the top cap strips had broken overnight when
being soaked. So I had to make two new ribs to replace those two. I am
confident that I will be OK with this salvage procedure. After I was all done
I
saw in one of the Bingelis books a real simple jig for forming the bend on the
top cap strip, which consisted of just a 2 x 4 cut on a curve with a jig saw.
The rib is soaked or steamed then clamped to the curve on the 2 x 4. Simple.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rib Questions |
I get my ribs at Famous Dave's...
TGIF!!!!
Fred B.
-----Original Message-----
From: Pietenpol-List Digest Server <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 1:56 am
Subject: Pietenpol-List Digest: 29 Msgs - 02/14/08
*
=================================================
Online Versions of Today's List Digest Archive
=================================================
Today's complete Pietenpol-List Digest can also be found in either of the
two Web Links listed below. The .html file includes the Digest formatted
in HTML for viewing with a web browser and features Hyperlinked Indexes
and Message Navigation. The .txt file includes the plain ASCII version
of the Pietenpol-List Digest and can be viewed with a generic text editor
such as Notepad or with a web browser.
HTML Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=html&Chapter 08-02-14&Archive=Pietenpol
Text Version:
http://www.matronics.com/digest/digestview.php?Style=82701&View=txt&Chapter 08-02-14&Archive=Pietenpol
===============================================
EMail Version of Today's List Digest Archive
===============================================
----------------------------------------------------------
Pietenpol-List Digest Archive
---
Total Messages Posted Thu 02/14/08: 29
----------------------------------------------------------
Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:36 AM - Re: Rib questions (Phillips, Jack)
2. 07:45 AM - Re: Rib questions (Ryan Mueller)
3. 07:56 AM - Re: Rib questions (Bill Church)
4. 08:22 AM - Re: Rib questions (Rick Holland)
5. 09:46 AM - Re: Rib questions (Ken Chambers)
6. 10:57 AM - wing trailing edge (Oscar Zuniga)
7. 12:38 PM - Re: Rib questions (Ryan Mueller)
8. 12:47 PM - prop for A75 (Oscar Zuniga)
9. 01:05 PM - Re: prop for A75 (Phillips, Jack)
10. 01:20 PM - Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations (Rick Holland)
11. 01:27 PM - Re: Rib questions (Michael Groah)
12. 01:45 PM - Re: Rib questions (Jack T. Textor)
13. 02:46 PM - wing ribs (Dick Navratil)
14. 03:27 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Dick Navratil)
15. 04:05 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Rick Holland)
16. 04:14 PM - Re: prop for A75 (BFD)
17. 04:20 PM - Re: prop for A75 (MikeD)
18. 06:37 PM - Re: Rib questions (Jim Malley)
19. 06:50 PM - Re: Drag/antidrag wire locations (bcharvet@bellsouth.net)
20. 07:56 PM - Re: Rib questions (bcharvet@bellsouth.net)
21. 08:11 PM - Capstrip steaming (chase143)
22. 08:29 PM - Re: Capstrip steaming (Owen Davies)
23. 08:31 PM - Re: Rib questions (Skip Gadd)
24. 08:34 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Dick Navratil)
25. 08:34 PM - Re: Rib questions (Clif Dawson)
26. 08:50 PM - Re: Capstrip steaming (carson)
27. 08:57 PM - Re: Capstrip steaming (carson)
28. 09:10 PM - Re: Rib questions (Rick Holland)
29. 09:14 PM - Re: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel (Rick Holland)
________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________
Time: 04:36:08 AM PST US
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com>
Ryan,
I found the same thing with my fullsize rib print. I glued it down to plyw
ood and built the jig right on top of it. At the nose of the rib I used 2
=BC" x =BD" pieces glued together rather than buying special =BD" x =BD" ma
terial. One thing I did with my wing that I would NOT do again - I used al
uminum trailing edge material, rather than wood as the plans call out. Whi
le I thought I had the trailing edge secure to the ribs, over time the tens
ion of the fabric has pulled it in (towards the spar) slightly - enough to
cause a little pucker in the fabric at each rib.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-lis
t-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ryan Mueller
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:05 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Good evening everyone,
We need a little advice before we proceed with the rib building. I have bee
n going back on forth on which method to use when it comes to jig setup. We
have our base built out of two pieces of 3/8 ply glued together. We also h
ave the full size rib print. I have read numerous posts on how you can't ne
cessarily utilize that print, due to the expansion/contraction of the paper
over time. The only dimension on the print is the 27 3/4" between the rear
of the front spar and the front of the rear spar. When we measure between
those points on the full size print it does actually come out to be 27 3/4"
. I also measured the thickness of the rib at the rear of both spars on the
full size print, and both measurements comes out within 1/16" of the neare
st listed dimensions from the plans (listed as 5 9/16" for the front, 5 9/3
2" for the rear on the plans). I don't know what else to check to ensure th
at the print is good to go. Is there something I'm missing here, or should
we just be able to glue the full size print down and start building the res
t of the jig (instead of lofting all the dimensions)?
One other issue is the difference between the leading edge of the rib in th
e plans, and on the full size print. On the '33 plans it looks like the fro
nt member of the rib that completes the flat nose that the leading edge bol
ts to is a 1/4 x 1/2" piece, just like all the other rib material. On the f
ull size print there is a note there that says "1/2 x1/2 inch block". Shoul
d we get some 1/2 x 1/2" spruce to make the front member, or will the 1/4 x
1/2" shown on the plans be sufficient?
Thanks,
Ryan
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain privilege
d, proprietary
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please
notify the sender
immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is p
rohibited.
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - N
orsk - Portuguese
________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________
Time: 07:45:41 AM PST US
From: Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@yahoo.com>
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Jack,
I smacked my forehead when I read your suggestion about using two pieces of 1/4
x 1/2. I don't know why I didn't think of that. Thank you for pointing that out.
I did catch a post in the archives where you had cautioned against using the
aluminum
for the TE. The downside of the aluminum, in addition to the fact that
I have not been able to find a source for the "tongued" TE material shown on the
plans has led us to choose the alternate TE method illustrated on Dwg 5. This
would be where you cut capstrips vertically where they meet in the rear, and
then your trailing edge material is glued to the end of each of the ribs, with
1/16 ply glued to the top and bottom and beveled at the ends. It may be time
consuming, but it does look to be a fairly straightforward way to end up with
a wood TE.
Thank you for your input Jack, it is greatly appreciated. Have a good day,
Ryan
"Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com> wrote: v\:*
{behavior:url(#default#VML);}
o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
.shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);} Ryan,
I found the same thing with my fullsize rib print. I glued it down to plywood
and built the jig right on top of it. At the nose of the rib I used 2 x
pieces
glued together rather than buying special x material. One thing I did
with my wing that I would NOT do again I used aluminum trailing edge material,
rather than wood as the plans call out. While I thought I had the trailing
edge secure to the ribs, over time the tension of the fabric has pulled it in
(towards the spar) slightly enough to cause a little pucker in the fabric at
each rib.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________
Time: 07:56:32 AM PST US
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
From: "Bill Church" <eng@canadianrogers.com>
Ryan,
Sounds like your full-size print is very close to being true - should be
fine to use it as-is. (Although, lofting the rib profile is no big deal.
Pretty easy to do.) The most important thing is to make all of your ribs
with the same profile. If it's off by 1/16" here or there, it won't
really make a big difference.
Get a can of spray adhesive and spray the wood, and the back side of the
printout, then carefully lay the printout on the wood - making sure you
don't get any wrinkles. Work from one end to the other, and press the
paper down as you go. Then you're ready to start placing your blocks (or
nails, or whatever method you choose - there are a lot of different
approaches one can take).
As for the leading edge piece, I went with the 1/2" x 1/2" when I built
my ribs. But I also ripped my own wood, so it was no big deal to cut up
a bit of 1/2" x 1/2". I imagine the 1/4" x 1/2" would work fine, but
there was likely a reason BHP changed to 1/2" x 1/2". Why don't you just
laminate two pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" capstrip to make up the 1/2"
thickness? That's what I did for my first rib that I built to test my
jig, before I purchased my Sitka.
Bill C.
________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________
Time: 08:22:12 AM PST US
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece of thin
plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking (I used the
plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe
I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You
can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I
would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings
and compared performance so what do I know?
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 8:46 AM, Bill Church <eng@canadianrogers.com> wrote:
> Ryan,
>
> Sounds like your full-size print is very close to being true - should be
> fine to use it as-is. (Although, lofting the rib profile is no big deal.
> Pretty easy to do.) The most important thing is to make all of your ribs
> with the same profile. If it's off by 1/16" here or there, it won't really
> make a big difference.
> Get a can of spray adhesive and spray the wood, and the back side of the
> printout, then carefully lay the printout on the wood - making sure you
> don't get any wrinkles. Work from one end to the other, and press the paper
> down as you go. Then you're ready to start placing your blocks (or nails, or
> whatever method you choose - there are a lot of different approaches one can
> take).
> As for the leading edge piece, I went with the 1/2" x 1/2" when I built my
> ribs. But I also ripped my own wood, so it was no big deal to cut up a bit
> of 1/2" x 1/2". I imagine the 1/4" x 1/2" would work fine, but there was
> likely a reason BHP changed to 1/2" x 1/2". Why don't you just laminate two
> pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" capstrip to make up the 1/2" thickness? That's what I
> did for my first rib that I built to test my jig, before I purchased my
> Sitka.
>
> Bill C.
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
Time: 09:46:45 AM PST US
From: "Ken Chambers" <ken.riffic@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Sure wish we could get Frank Paviglia (hope I spelled that right) to tell us
about his recent flight in a Piet with a Ribblett wing. A few weeks back
someone passed along Frank's opinion that the plane seemed "pitch sensitive"
but it would nice to know a little more.
Anyone know Frank well enough to call and ask him for more details?
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 10:17 AM, Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
> One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece of thin
> plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking (I used the
> plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half longways).
>
> And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and
> maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
> alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You
> can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I
> would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings
> and compared performance so what do I know?
>
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 8:46 AM, Bill Church <eng@canadianrogers.com>
> wrote:
>
> > Ryan,
> >
> > Sounds like your full-size print is very close to being true - should be
> > fine to use it as-is. (Although, lofting the rib profile is no big deal.
> > Pretty easy to do.) The most important thing is to make all of your ribs
> > with the same profile. If it's off by 1/16" here or there, it won't really
> > make a big difference.
> > Get a can of spray adhesive and spray the wood, and the back side of the
> > printout, then carefully lay the printout on the wood - making sure you
> > don't get any wrinkles. Work from one end to the other, and press the paper
> > down as you go. Then you're ready to start placing your blocks (or nails, or
> > whatever method you choose - there are a lot of different approaches one can
> > take).
> > As for the leading edge piece, I went with the 1/2" x 1/2" when I built
> > my ribs. But I also ripped my own wood, so it was no big deal to cut up a
> > bit of 1/2" x 1/2". I imagine the 1/4" x 1/2" would work fine, but there was
> > likely a reason BHP changed to 1/2" x 1/2". Why don't you just laminate two
> > pieces of 1/4" x 1/2" capstrip to make up the 1/2" thickness? That's what I
> > did for my first rib that I built to test my jig, before I purchased my
> > Sitka.
> >
> > Bill C.
> >
> >
> >
> > *
> >
> > *
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> ObjectAge Ltd.
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________
Time: 10:57:39 AM PST US
From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wing trailing edge
I know it's been said many times, many ways- but Mike Cuy has a nifty trailing
edge detail that is fairly simple and uses lumber store material. His detail
sketch is at http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/trailingedge.jpg
Mikeee continues to rake in the royalties for all these details ;o)
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________
Time: 12:38:23 PM PST US
From: Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we were
considering,
but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the big-box home improvement
stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided to keep it simple and just cut
out some small squares of wax paper and slip them under each joint as we glue
up the ribs. Thanks for the tip though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound
interesting
we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll build with a
standard
Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those who try out the Ribblett.
Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote: One other thing you can do when making
your rib jig is lay a piece of thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the
glue from sticking (I used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame
cut in half longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe I
won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett alternative
Pietenpol
airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You can read about
it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I would go for it,
but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings and compared
performance
so what do I know?
Rick
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________
Time: 12:47:06 PM PST US
From: Oscar Zuniga <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which engines?
I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a 72x38 or 40 is
indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full rated RPM (and HP). I'd
also be interested if anyone has such a prop available.
Thanks.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________
Time: 01:05:41 PM PST US
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
From: "Phillips, Jack" <Jack.Phillips@cardinalhealth.com>
Oscar, I've got a Sensenich 72 x 42 on my A65 currently. I get about
2100 RPM static with it, and on climb out it gets to about 2250, so I'm
not quite getting rated power. I've got a St Croix 74 x 36 that I have
been meaning to try for a year now. One weekend soon I will swap them
and compare the numbers. I'll publish what I find.
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar
Zuniga
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 2:03 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
<taildrags@hotmail.com>
Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which
engines? I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a
72x38 or 40 is indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full
rated RPM (and HP). I'd also be interested if anyone has such a prop
available.
Thanks.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
_________________________________________________
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please
notify
the sender
Dansk - Deutsch - Espanol - Francais - Italiano - Japanese - Nederlands - Norsk
- Portuguese
________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________
Time: 01:20:21 PM PST US
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/antidrag wire locations
Ben
When you mentioned welding the plate across the top of the lift strut attach
fittings it reminded me of a small problem I had which may or may not be an
issue for you. My two .090 side fittings (that run on either side of the
spar) stuck up maybe 1/4 - 3/8" above the spar. And I then welded the tops
of these together with a small horizontal piece of .090. Problem was after
prime and paint I realized that the tops of the fitting was a hair above the
tops of the ribs (so the covering fabric would be in contact). Had to do a
bit of grinding and repainting.
Rick
On Feb 11, 2008 3:47 PM, Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
> I'm at about the same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't
> want to screw this up because it would set me back months. I used the
> drawing in the extended fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the
> spars. I drilled the holes per the plans and welded the plate across
> the top. Now the hole that the drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach
> to is about 1/4 inch below the centerline of the spar. In looking at
> the original plans, its not clear if the fitting is centered on the spar
> or not. Fortunately if I need to center that hole (the spar isn't
> drilled yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the fitting and reweld
> it. Better too long than too short.
>
> So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag fittings need to be
> centered on the spar, ie will it cause some strange warping if they are
> off-center a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?
>
> Thanks in advance
>
>
> Ben Charvet
> Mims Fl
> NX866BC
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________
Time: 01:27:16 PM PST US
From: Michael Groah <dskogrover@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
I took a bit and drilled holes, well, recesses really as I didnt' go all the way
through at each glue point. This kept me from having to deal with the wax paper
and was cheaper than using acrylic sheets. I guess you could drill all the
way through if you wanted. I made my jig from two strips of 3/4 glued together
so I just drilled part of the way through. It's overkill but it stays straight!
Ryan Mueller <rmueller23@yahoo.com> wrote:
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we were
considering,
but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the big-box home improvement
stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided to keep it simple and just cut
out some small squares of wax paper and slip them under each joint as we glue
up the ribs. Thanks for the tip though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound
interesting
we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll build with a
standard
Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those who try out the Ribblett.
Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote: One other thing you can do when making
your rib jig is lay a piece of thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep
the glue from sticking (I used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture
frame cut in half longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe I
won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett alternative
Pietenpol
airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You can read about
it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I would go for it,
but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings and compared
performance
so what do I know?
Rick
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________
Time: 01:45:53 PM PST US
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
From: "Jack T. Textor" <jtextor@thepalmergroup.com>
Ryan,
Would suggest a =BE inch hole drilled through your jig, below each
joint. You can do smaller cut-out at the nose and tail. It worked
great for me and allows you to push the rib out from behind. I've
attached a picture, or there are some on my site.
Good luck,
Jack
www.textors.com
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we were
considering, but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the big-box
home improvement stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided to keep
it simple and just cut out some small squares of wax paper and slip them
under each joint as we glue up the ribs. Thanks for the tip though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound
interesting we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll
build with a standard Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those
who try out the Ribblett. Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece of
thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking (I
used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half
longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and
maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also.
You can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib
building I would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet
with both wings and compared performance so what do I know?
Rick
________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________
Time: 02:46:59 PM PST US
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Subject: Pietenpol-List: wing ribs
I attached a pic of my set up. I bought a blemished interior door for
$5 and set up jig for one rib. After making one, I duplicated twice,
now I make 3 at a time. If anyone is wondering, the sockets hold the
glued gusset plates in place so I dont have to staple.
Dick N.
________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________
Time: 03:27:37 PM PST US
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I bought
some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go with
Douglas fir again.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
> Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're planning
> to do that to our A-75.
>
> - another Mike
>
> --------
> Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________
Time: 04:05:16 PM PST US
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
You mean you will go with Douglas fir TE when you build your THIRD
Pietenpol? (You can put the 9 cylinder Rotec on that one).
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Dick Navratil <horzpool@goldengate.net>
wrote:
> horzpool@goldengate.net>
>
> Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I bought
> some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go with
> Douglas fir again.
> Dick N.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
>
> >
> > Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're
> planning
> > to do that to our A-75.
> >
> > - another Mike
> >
> > --------
> > Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________
Time: 04:14:11 PM PST US
From: "BFD" <mr.clean@centurytel.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
Usually I think the a75 has a 70 x 38 prop
----- Original Message -----
From: "Oscar Zuniga" <taildrags@hotmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 1:02 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: prop for A75
>
>
> Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which
> engines? I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a
> 72x38 or 40 is indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full rated
> RPM (and HP). I'd also be interested if anyone has such a prop available.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
>
>
>
________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________
Time: 04:20:18 PM PST US
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: prop for A75
From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
taildrags(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> Did someone have a tabulation of which props are being used with which
engines?
I'm running a 72x42 Hegy prop on the A65 but I've heard that a 72x38 or 40
is indicated for the A75 to allow it to turn up to full rated RPM (and HP).
I'd also be interested if anyone has such a prop available.
>
> Thanks.
>
> Oscar Zuniga
> San Antonio, TX
> mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
> website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Yes that is true - if you load the 75 as you would the 65, you will not realize
all the power available. At 65 cruise rpm the 75 produces about the same
horsepower,
therefore logically it will spin it about the same rpm. You need to reduce
load with pitch, diameter, or both. I am also in the market for those same
props, my first choice being the 38 pitch.
Mike
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164091#164091
________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________
Time: 06:37:17 PM PST US
From: "Jim Malley" <jgmalley@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
I would avoid wax paper, it contaminates the wood for gluing the other
gusset and for a good varnishing job later. Cut up some squares of sheet
protectors available at office supply stores. Holes under the joints
does the trick as well.
Jim Malley
----- Original Message -----
From: Ryan Mueller
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 3:24 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we
were considering, but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the
big-box home improvement stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided
to keep it simple and just cut out some small squares of wax paper and
slip them under each joint as we glue up the ribs. Thanks for the tip
though.
I have heard mention of the Ribblett airfoil, and while it does sound
interesting we don't have any desire to try it out at this point. We'll
build with a standard Piet airfoil, and follow the developments of those
who try out the Ribblett. Have a good one,
Ryan
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
One other thing you can do when making your rib jig is lay a piece
of thin plexiglass over the rib diagram to keep the glue from sticking
(I used the plastic from a cheap Walmart 3'x2' picture frame cut in half
longways).
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again...
and maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the
Ribblett alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are
available also. You can read about it in a archives. If I was just about
to start rib building I would go for it, but I have not yet built and
flown a Piet with both wings and compared performance so what do I know?
Rick
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Be a better friend, newshound, and
________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________
Time: 06:50:09 PM PST US
From: bcharvet@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Drag/antidrag wire locations
That's what mine would look like if I centered the middle hole (for the drag
wire
bracket) on the spar. I assume the plate is welded across the top to rest
on the top of the spar to give extra support. I'm going to remake mine to
dimensions
to fit my spars. I am using laminated 3/4 inch Doug Fir spars, and I
want to be sure that the bolts don't go through one of my lamination seams. At
this stage of the game I should have known to check all this before drilling
holes.... All in all I haven't had to do too many things twice, so this is not
a big deal.. I just need to wait a few days for the new steel to arrive.
Ben
-------------- Original message from "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>:
--------------
Ben
When you mentioned welding the plate across the top of the lift strut attach
fittings
it reminded me of a small problem I had which may or may not be an issue
for you. My two .090 side fittings (that run on either side of the spar) stuck
up maybe 1/4 - 3/8" above the spar. And I then welded the tops of these together
with a small horizontal piece of .090. Problem was after prime and paint
I realized that the tops of the fitting was a hair above the tops of the ribs
(so the covering fabric would be in contact). Had to do a bit of grinding and
repainting.
Rick
On Feb 11, 2008 3:47 PM, Ben Charvet <bcharvet@bellsouth.net> wrote:
Hi all,
I'm at about the same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't
want to screw this up because it would set me back months. I used the
drawing in the extended fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the
spars. I drilled the holes per the plans and welded the plate across
the top. Now the hole that the drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach
to is about 1/4 inch below the centerline of the spar. In looking at
the original plans, its not clear if the fitting is centered on the spar
or not. Fortunately if I need to center that hole (the spar isn't
drilled yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the fitting and reweld
it. Better too long than too short.
So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag fittings need to be
centered on the spar, ie will it cause some strange warping if they are
off-center a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
<html>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<head></head>
<body>
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
<DIV></DIV>
<P>That's what mine would look like if I centered the middle hole (for the drag
wire bracket) on the spar. I assume the plate is welded across the top
to rest on the top of the spar to give extra support. I'm going to remake
mine to dimensions to fit my spars. I am using laminated 3/4 inch Doug
Fir spars, and I want to be sure that the bolts don't go through one of my
lamination
seams. At this stage of the game I should have known to check all
this before drilling holes.... All in all I haven't had to do too many
things twice, so this is not a big deal.. I just need to wait a few days
for the new steel to arrive.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Ben<BR></P>
<BLOCKQUOTE style="PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px; BORDER-LEFT: #1010ff 2px
solid">-------------- Original message from "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>:
-------------- <BR><BR>Ben<BR><BR>When you mentioned welding the plate
across the top of the lift strut attach fittings it reminded me of a small
problem I had which may or may not be an issue for you. My two .090 side
fittings
(that run on either side of the spar) stuck up maybe 1/4 - 3/8" above the
spar. And I then welded the tops of these together with a small horizontal piece
of .090. Problem was after prime and paint I realized that the tops of the
fitting was a hair above the tops of the ribs (so the covering fabric would be
in contact). Had to do a bit of grinding and repainting.<BR><BR>Rick<BR><BR>
<DIV class=gmail_quote>On Feb 11, 2008 3:47 PM, Ben Charvet <<A
href="mailto:bcharvet@bellsouth.net" target=_blank>bcharvet@bellsouth.net</A>>
wrote:<BR>
<BLOCKQUOTE class=gmail_quote style="PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0pt 0pt 0pt
0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: rgb(204,204,204) 1px solid">--> Pietenpol-List message
posted by: Ben Charvet <<A href="mailto:bcharvet@bellsouth.net"
target=_blank>bcharvet@bellsouth.net</A>><BR><BR>Hi all,<BR>I'm at about the
same stage Jack is, that is assembling my wings. Don't<BR>want to screw this up
because it would set me back months. I used the<BR>drawing in the extended
fuselage plans for my lift strut attach to the<BR>spars. I drilled the holes
per the plans and welded the plate across<BR>the top. Now the hole that the
drag/antidrag wire bracket would attach<BR>to is about 1/4 inch below the
centerline of the spar. In looking at<BR>the original plans, its not clear if
the fitting is centered on the spar<BR>or not. Fortunately if I need to center
that hole (the spar isn't<BR>drilled yet) I can cut 1/4 inch off the top of the
fitting and reweld<BR>it. Be
tter t
oo long than too short.<BR><BR>So my question is: Do all the drag/antidrag
fittings need to be<BR>centered on the spar, ie will it cause some strange
warping
if they are<BR>off-center a little bit when I tighten them up. Feedback?<BR><BR
clear=all><BR>-- <BR>Rick Holland<BR>ObjectAge Ltd.<BR>Castle Rock,
Colorado <PRE><B><FONT face="courier new,courier" color=#000000 size=2>
</B></FONT></PRE></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></BLOCKQUOTE>
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre>
________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________
Time: 07:56:35 PM PST US
From: bcharvet@bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
I just cut pieces out of a plastic grocery bag and put them under each joint in
my jig. The jig was made of two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood screwed together
with drywall screws. The grocery bag plastic peels off very easily and was
free.
Ben
<html>
<!-- BEGIN WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<head></head>
<body>
<!-- WEBMAIL STATIONERY noneset -->
<DIV></DIV>
<P><BR>I just cut pieces out of a plastic grocery bag and put them under each
joint
in my jig. The jig was made of two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood screwed
together with drywall screws. The grocery bag plastic peels off
very easily and was free.</P>
<P> </P>
<P>Ben</P>
<!-- END WEBMAIL STATIONERY -->
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre>
________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________
Time: 08:11:39 PM PST US
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Capstrip steaming
From: "chase143" <chase143@aol.com>
Hello all. This my first posting. I am presently building my rib jigs, but I am
thinking ahead to the steaming process and building the jig for bending the top
capstrip. However I don't find anything written about the bottom. My question
is this: Is there a need to steam and form the bottom capstrips? My guess is
yes, because there is substantial curve, especially in the front portion. Any
guidance would be greatly apprecaited.
Thanks all.
Steve
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164124#164124
________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________
Time: 08:29:52 PM PST US
From: Owen Davies <owen5819@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Capstrip steaming
chase143 wrote:
> Is there a need to steam and form the bottom capstrips?
Ha! I think this is my first posting too, unless I wrote in a long time
ago and have forgotten it. And you have asked the one question I am
qualified to answer.
None of my ribs (five, count them!) required steaming to form the bottom
capstrip.
As for the top ones, I just put the ends in hot water and left them
overnight. It seemed easier than steaming, given that I didn't have a
steamer and did have a big tin can.
I really have to get this project under way again.
Owen
________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________
Time: 08:31:42 PM PST US
From: "Skip Gadd" <skipgadd@earthlink.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Since you brought it up Rick, I got the coordinates for the GA30U-612 from Bill
Rewey. When I lofted it out the T.E. looks real thick, actually .70". There is
a note on the coordinate page that "the 612 airfoil has a sharp T.E. -- The
top rear coordinates have been increased very slightly to provide a 0.7" T.E.
which will be more dent resistant"
Anyone who has lofted this or looked at the full size rib drawing, does the T.E.
look kind of thick to you?
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
Sent: 2/14/2008 11:25:26 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and maybe I
won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett alternative
Pietenpol
airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You can read about
it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I would go for it,
but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings and compared
performance
so what do I know?
Rick
________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________
Time: 08:34:00 PM PST US
From: "Dick Navratil" <horzpool@goldengate.net>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
Rick
I am now working on a Volmer VJ 22 amphib, also all wood, 22 of 34 wing
ribs done. We will be assembling wings at SNF this spring.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
You mean you will go with Douglas fir TE when you build your THIRD
Pietenpol? (You can put the 9 cylinder Rotec on that one).
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Dick Navratil
<horzpool@goldengate.net> wrote:
<horzpool@goldengate.net>
Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I
bought
some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go
with
Douglas fir again.
Dick N.
----- Original Message -----
From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
> Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're
planning
> to do that to our A-75.
>
> - another Mike
>
> --------
> Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________
Time: 08:34:54 PM PST US
From: Clif Dawson <CDAWSON5854@shaw.ca>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Ten mil poly
Clif
Rick,
Covering the jig with a piece of acrylic/Plexi was a method that we
were considering, but the acrylic sheets that we looked at in the
big-box home improvement stores are rather pricey. In the end we decided
to keep it simple and just cut out some small squares of wax paper and
slip them under each joint as we glue up the ribs. Thanks for the tip
though.
________________________________ Message 26 ____________________________________
Time: 08:50:33 PM PST US
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Capstrip steaming
From: "carson" <carsonvella@yahoo.com.au>
Steve
I have only built my ribs and tail so far but I did bend the bottom cap first
The
first rib I built popped at the front so after that I bent the bottom ones
first,all I did was to use the same bending jig but not bend them all the way
the pic attached shows bending for top cap for the bottom ones I didn't clamp
them down I just used the clamp to weight them down to about 8 inches off the
tail of the jig,It worked well for me as only the front needs a little bending.
Hope this helps it is the first time that I have been able to give back to the
list.
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164142#164142
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/peitenpol_037_628.jpg
________________________________ Message 27 ____________________________________
Time: 08:57:54 PM PST US
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Capstrip steaming
From: "carson" <carsonvella@yahoo.com.au>
Sorry Steve
Here is also a pic of the way I softened my timber I used a 1 1/2 inch pvc pipe
caped at one end filled with boiling water for 45 min
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164147#164147
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/peitenpol_015_783.jpg
________________________________ Message 28 ____________________________________
Time: 09:10:04 PM PST US
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Hey Skip
I have have the full size 612 drawing in front of me now, the trailing edge
piece is 1 1/4" wide and goes from 3/8" height to 1/8" at the end. Looks
almost identical to the original rib TE. Are you thinking of building a 612
wing?
Rick
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 7:44 PM, Skip Gadd <skipgadd@earthlink.net> wrote:
> Since you brought it up Rick, I got the coordinates for the GA30U-612
> from Bill Rewey. When I lofted it out the T.E. looks real thick, actually
> .70". There is a note on the coordinate page that "the 612 airfoil has a
> sharp T.E. -- The top rear coordinates have been increased very slightly
> to provide a 0.7" T.E. which will be more dent resistant"
> Anyone who has lofted this or looked at the full size rib drawing, does
> the T.E. look kind of thick to you?
> Skip
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
> *To: *pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* 2/14/2008 11:25:26 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
>
> And I was debating whether I should bring up this subject again... and
> maybe I won't...well what the hell. Ryan, have you heard of the Ribblett
> alternative Pietenpol airfoil? Full size plans of it are available also. You
> can read about it in a archives. If I was just about to start rib building I
> would go for it, but I have not yet built and flown a Piet with both wings
> and compared performance so what do I know?
>
> Rick
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________ Message 29 ____________________________________
Time: 09:14:05 PM PST US
From: "Rick Holland" <at7000ft@gmail.com>
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
Nice work Dick, I will stop by for a look and say hi at SNF.
Rick
do not archive
On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 8:45 PM, Dick Navratil <horzpool@goldengate.net>
wrote:
> Rick
> I am now working on a Volmer VJ 22 amphib, also all wood, 22 of 34 wing
> ribs done. We will be assembling wings at SNF this spring.
> Dick
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com>
> *To:* pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Thursday, February 14, 2008 5:51 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
>
> You mean you will go with Douglas fir TE when you build your THIRD
> Pietenpol? (You can put the 9 cylinder Rotec on that one).
>
> Rick
>
> On Thu, Feb 14, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Dick Navratil <horzpool@goldengate.net>
> wrote:
>
> > horzpool@goldengate.net>
> >
> > Many thanks to Jack Phillips for the post on alum trailing edge. I
> > bought
> > some at SNF fly mart and havent felt good about using it. I will go
> > with
> > Douglas fir again.
> > Dick N.
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "MikeD" <mjdt@auracom.com>
> > To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> > Sent: Wednesday, February 13, 2008 7:48 AM
> > Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Quotes--Redford to Axel
> >
> >
> > >
> > > Hey, I just saw you in the EAA vid! Nice rocker covers btw, we're
> > planning
> > > to do that to our A-75.
> > >
> > > - another Mike
> > >
> > > --------
> > > Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > > Read this topic online here:
> > >
> > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163820#163820
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> Rick Holland
> ObjectAge Ltd.
> Castle Rock, Colorado
>
> *
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
________________________________________________________________________
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Or, if I'm in the Twin Cities I get ribs at the Market Cafe...yummmmmmmm!!!
FB
________________________________________________________________________
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Possible engine alternative |
Hello, i am new here........i am currently finishing a Pietenpol my dad started
back in the 70's, it is 60% complete needing only the wing and covering. His
engine choice of the day was a 1928 chevy truck engine which is currently installed.
The plane has been sitting for 25 yrs since the engines last run with the
head off. After searcing for different engine choices, i stumbled across this
post, and i believe this engine (GM 1600) is the obvious choice. I have tried
to purchase this engine with no luck. Has anyone been able to find a source
who will sell this engine? I will gladly join in someones purchase to possibly
by multiples at one time. Anyone else having the same problems? (I have been
trying to buy the engine through my company for INDUSTRIAL use i have never mentioned
VEHICLE or AIRPLANE)
Chris Rusch
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164216#164216
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote |
Or you could be the first to build a rocket assist ejection seat for a Piet.
Rick
do not archive
>
> Makes me wonder at the sanity of wearing a chute in a Piet, esp. in the
> front cockpit. I would hope we're at about 12,000' AGL if I ever have to
> bail out..
>
> --------
> Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=163049#163049
>
>
--
Rick Holland
ObjectAge Ltd.
Castle Rock, Colorado
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Dan,
I saw the same article about the bending jig, so I tried it last night. I laid
a sheet of paper over the full size plan, and traced the profile of the upper
capstrip. Then I just eyeballed it and drew a bit sharper curve on the same sheet.
I actually used a 2x6 to cut mine out of. In my infinite wisdom I did not
take the sheet of paper with me to the big-box store (or measure beforehand),
and on my way there I started wondering whether a 2x4 was actually going to be
deep enough for the curve. To avoid a second trip (since I walk everywhere so
we don't lose our parking spot just for an errand run) I went with the 2x6.
All in all I'm pretty pleased with it. Works as advertised, and easy to make.
How is your Piet progressing? Will the PG flyport be treated to a little Ford noise
this upcoming flying season?
Ryan
HelsperSew@aol.com wrote: ....After I was all done I saw in one of the Bingelis
books a real simple jig for forming the bend on the top cap strip, which
consisted of just a 2 x 4 cut on a curve with a jig saw. The rib is soaked or
steamed then clamped to the curve on the 2 x 4. Simple.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Excellent! Thanks all for the replies. I am hooked on Matronics....
I can see this is going to be a great community to build with!
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164250#164250
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Ryan,
My Piet is progressing although at a slower pace that desired. I am
currently bogged down with a dreaded master bath remodel project. I have my fuel
lines done, some cowl patterns done, and am currently working on a fuel gauge
(Strearman type) as recently discussed on this site. Have outside hopes to fly
in 2009.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote |
All the builders that have put in the circular cutouts are ready to go with that
mod. They won't have to worry about busting through the wing on they way out.
For those without cutouts, maybe they could install short-burn rockets in their
seats. Just long enough to burn through the bottom, and they could just fall
out.
Ryan
do not archive
Rick Holland <at7000ft@gmail.com> wrote:
Or you could be the first to build a rocket assist ejection seat for a Piet.
Rick
do not archive
Makes me wonder at the sanity of wearing a chute in a Piet, esp. in the
front cockpit. I would hope we're at about 12,000' AGL if I ever have to
bail out..
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rib Question |
I goes to the only place they got good ribs, I goes to Memphis and there are
three great places to get em depending how you like em.
Lemme no when ya go
John
In a message dated 2/15/2008 10:25:46 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
tbyh@aol.com writes:
Or, if I'm in the Twin Cities I get ribs at the Market Cafe...yummmmmmmm!!!
FB
____________________________________
More new features than ever. Check out the new _AOL Mail_
(http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003) !
www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy
Awards. Go to AOL Music.
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Dan,
Good to hear that progress is being made (regardless of the pace). If you are going
to Brodhead maybe we will run into you there, or we might could swing by
on the way up and check out your Piet and chat for a bit. Sorry, I forgot that
you started the fuel gauge thread.
I would have to question the wisdom of installing a master bath in a Piet, let
alone remodeling it before you've flown it yet. The old Ford only has so much
oomph to go around. ;)
Have a good one,
Ryan
do not archive
HelsperSew@aol.com wrote: Ryan,
My Piet is progressing although at a slower pace that desired. I am currently
bogged down with a dreaded master bath remodel project. I have my fuel lines
done, some cowl patterns done, and am currently working on a fuel gauge (Strearman
type) as recently discussed on this site. Have outside hopes to fly in
2009.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Leonardo da Vinci Quote |
at7000ft wrote:
> Or you could be the first to build a rocket assist ejection seat for a Piet.
>
> Rick
>
I figure if I simply toss out the drogue it'll rip me clear of the airframe one
way or the other when the chute opens. Or perhaps a quick release mechanism on
the cabanes and outer strut attachments.. hmm. Not a good one to activate by
accident on a monoplane.
Or do away with the center section altogether.. hmm.
Mike
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164267#164267
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Ok I'm just about ready to make my tail wheel assembly. I'm going to do the pietenpol
design but with a wheel as many have done. I've looked through pictures
on westcoastpiet and I've seen various ways of doing it. My main question
is about those tailwheels that release after so far and freewheel caster. How
necessary is this feature? I see that it would make it easier to turn or pivot
on one main wheel. It's easier and cheaper to build a basic setup that is
tied into the rudder without a release. Any pros/cons/opinions on what way to
go?
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
Hey Glenn,
How many bottles did you have to go through to find the right one?
And, will Cab steam better than Merlot??
Just curious,
Al Lyscars
Manchester, NH
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Thomas
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Friday, February 15, 2008 7:00 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Capstrip steaming
I found the steamer worked better if I put a wine bottle full of water
in, let it heat up, and then kept the steamer going with the capstrip in
the wine bottle for about 30 minutes.
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
The full swivel tailwheel is nice if you have individual brakes because
you can turn tighter. If you don't have individual brakes it has no
advantage. I have a Maule tailwheel on my Baby Ace, and bought one used
for my Piet. Its pretty heavy and after flying the Baby Ace for a year
I don't really need to use the full swivel tailwheel, except it is nice
when you go to push it back in the hangar. I've rigged individual
brakes on my rudder bar, but I doubt they will hold for an engine runup,
so I may change to a brake handle that locks both wheels for that
purpose. If I do, I'll probably not use the Maule tailwheel and go with
something lighter..
Ben
Michael Groah wrote:
> Ok I'm just about ready to make my tail wheel assembly. I'm going to
> do the pietenpol design but with a wheel as many have done. I've
> looked through pictures on westcoastpiet and I've seen various ways
> of doing it. My main question is about those tailwheels that release
> after so far and freewheel caster. How necessary is this feature? I
> see that it would make it easier to turn or pivot on one main wheel.
> It's easier and cheaper to build a basic setup that is tied into the
> rudder without a release. Any pros/cons/opinions on what way to go?
>
> *
>
>
> *
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Flighttime Radio Show |
Just wanted to remind everyone to listen to the Flighttime Radio Show
tomorrow morning at 10:00 AM Eastern time. www.flighttimeradio.com We are
having an aviation education special this week.
This week we will have KR pilot Kip Lounsbury guest hosting with us. Kip is
a lot of fun and a great story teller.
We are giving away a $49.95 valued ASA Flight Timer 2 and an Aviation
Scholarship Directory to callers this week. You must be listening live for
your chance to call in and win.
Our first guests this week are Judy Rice, President of Careers in Aviation
which is a non-profit group helping to advance the future of aviation
careers by fostering scholarships, connecting students with available
assistance, and encouraging the aviation industry, professional
associations, government agancies, and the educational community to work
together effectively supporting aviation and space career development
programs.
Our second guest is Col. Jack Howell, President of Teens in Flight which is
a non-profit group that provides free flight training and maintenance
scholarships to teens that have lost a parent or had a parent wounded and
disabled in the war on terrorrism or selected "at risk" teens.
Brian Kraut
www.flighttimeradio.com
Just wanted to remind everyone to listen to the Flighttime Radio Show
tomorrow morning at 10:00 AM Eastern time. www.flighttimeradio.com We are
having an aviation education special this week.
This week we will have KR pilot Kip Lounsbury guest hosting with us. Kip is
a lot of fun and a great story teller.
We are giving away a $49.95 valued ASA Flight Timer 2 and an Aviation
Scholarship Directory to callers this week. You must be listening live for
your chance to call in and win.
Our first guests this week are Judy Rice, President of Careers in Aviation
which is a non-profit group helping to advance the future of aviation
careers by fostering scholarships, connecting students with available
assistance, and encouraging the aviation industry, professional
associations, government agancies, and the educational community to work
together effectively supporting aviation and space career development
programs.
Our second guest is Col. Jack Howell, President of Teens in Flight which is
a non-profit group that provides free flight training and maintenance
scholarships to teens that have lost a parent or had a parent wounded and
disabled in the war on terrorrism or selected "at risk" teens.
Brian Kraut
www.flighttimeradio.com
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: prop for A75 |
harvey.rule(at)bell.ca wrote:
> I've been using a 72 X 42 on my 80 hp Franklin.I was always wondering if
> I could use something that could give me more gas milage.(maybe even
> more speed)I seem to go through the gas quite quickly but then that
> could be because I have the carb set for rich.I was told this is the
> best for low altitude flying.Adjust when flying over 3000 ft.I very
> seldom get over 3000.I like the view at low and slow.
>
> --
The horsepower rating alone will not dictate the prop choice. What are the cruise
and max rpm for that engine? 72-42 is larger than anything listed for use with
an A75. You can use it on an A65, but cruise/max rpm is lower. If you put
it on an A75, but you'll see about 65hp max out of it. The torque curves are very
close up to A65 rpm levels and if you load it the same it will perform about
the same. You need to load it so that it reaches it's higher cruise/max rpm
to produce full power, therefore you need less load than a 65.
Mike
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164354#164354
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rib questions |
Rick,
The trailing edge piece you described, are you talking about the ply gusset or
a spruce filler?
I'm thinking.
Skip
----- Original Message -----
From: Rick Holland
Sent: 2/15/2008 12:13:02 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Rib questions
Hey Skip
I have have the full size 612 drawing in front of me now, the trailing edge piece
is 1 1/4" wide and goes from 3/8" height to 1/8" at the end. Looks almost identical
to the original rib TE. Are you thinking of building a 612 wing?
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Capstrip steaming |
On 2/15/08, ALAN LYSCARS <alyscars@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Hey Glenn,
>
> How many bottles did you have to go through to find the right one?
>
>
I lost count. Too bad there are only 32 ribs. I'm still not sure I found
the absolute best bottle.
And, will Cab steam better than Merlot??
>
Actually neither. Pinot Grigio outperforms all of the other bottles
tested. ...but if you want to trust your life to ribs steamed in Merlot
bottles, it's your life.
And as a side note. If you use a wine bottle in your steaming process in
the winter and don't heat the work area, remember to dump the water out
before you close up shop.
> Just curious,
>
> Al Lyscars
> Manchester, NH
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Glenn Thomas <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
> *To:* pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Friday, February 15, 2008 7:00 AM
> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Capstrip steaming
>
>
> I found the steamer worked better if I put a wine bottle full of water in,
> let it heat up, and then kept the steamer going with the capstrip in the
> wine bottle for about 30 minutes.
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
--
Glenn Thomas
Storrs, CT
http://www.flyingwood.com
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Airfoil comparison |
For those on the list who are interested I've attached a spreadsheet I
put together a while ago of the Riblett 612, 613 and Pietenpol airfoil
sections .
There are four of us in Australia who are planing on using the 612 section.
Please use the data as you will, keeping in mind all the disclaimers
that go with it's use.
Thanks goes to a certain kind gentleman (RB) on the list who provided
the 612 co-ordinates
JohnW
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|