Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:12 AM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) ()
2. 05:05 AM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (gcardinal)
3. 05:09 AM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (Kip and Beth Gardner)
4. 05:10 AM - Re: Continental engine drawing file (MikeD)
5. 07:05 AM - Re: Re: Piet building (Gene & Tammy)
6. 08:50 AM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (Owen Davies)
7. 09:48 AM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (Brian Kraut)
8. 10:10 AM - Pietenpol for sale (Gene & Tammy)
9. 10:10 AM - Fw: Antennas (Gene & Tammy)
10. 11:13 AM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (Bill Church)
11. 01:17 PM - Re: Piet building (carson)
12. 04:46 PM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (VAHOWDY@aol.com)
13. 05:11 PM - Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (MikeD)
14. 05:53 PM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (Owen Davies)
15. 06:37 PM - Re: Another newbie looking for advise (Jim Quinn)
16. 07:14 PM - Re: Another newbie looking for advise (Glenn Thomas)
17. 07:37 PM - Re: Continental engine drawing file (Steve Ruse)
18. 11:36 PM - Re: Spruce Alternatives (Clif Dawson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
Be aware that Gorilla glue expands when curing.I made the mistake of
using this stuff to put a rubber trim on my wing root covers.What a
mess.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn
Thomas
Sent: February 26, 2008 10:49 PM
Subject: Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Spruce
Alternatives)
>Teeny bottles of Gorilla Glue are even available on the checkout
>lines at the local supermarket!
Sure, but you're not building a diarama either. ...Plus you can pick up
a tablesaw blade, some router bits and things you didn't even know you
wanted once you get to Woodcraft.
On 2/26/08, Owen Davies <owen5819@comcast.net> wrote:
jimboyer@hughes.net wrote:
> Check your local Woodcraft store; they carry T88 although they do
> price it a little higher. They also have Titebond III which I did use
> for the plywood over the instrument panel, storage area behind pilot
> and over the front cockpit instrument panel.
I didn't know they had T-88. The nearest Woodcraft is close to 90 miles
away, but I can live with that. When you figure in shipping, it probably
balances out. OTOH, I can get Titebond III, Gorilla Glue, or the new
Elmer's Nano at the nearest Home Depot, which is about four miles from
here. Teeny bottles of Gorilla Glue are even available on the checkout
--
Glenn Thomas
Storrs, CT
http://www.flyingwood.com
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
The glue test was published in the August 2007 (issue #192) Fine Woodworking
magazine.
The April 2005 (issue #176) also compared different types of glues.
Greg C.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Owen Davies" <owen5819@comcast.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re: Spruce
Alternatives)
>
> Kip and Beth Gardner wrote:
>> Anyway, I've used both Gorilla Glue and the Elmer's equivalent in a
>> number of (non-aircraft) applications over the years & I think it has
>> good potential for some aircraft applications if you use it correctly. I
>> did some bond tests several years ago & got wood failure before glue
>> failure every time if I used the following procedures: [etc.]
> Many thanks for that. It's a big help. The question of clamping pressure
> seems to be important with the polyurethanes, and I've never been clear
> what is needed.
>
>> And, unlike the Titebond glues, it is waterproof when cured ...
> Actually, that's what interests me about Titebond III. It is supposed to
> be waterproof, and in at least one test series it was reported to give the
> strongest bonds on wet wood--stronger than T-88 or resorcinol. What I
> don't know is how well it stands up over time under the conditions it
> would see in an airplane.
>
> Now if only I could remember where that test appeared.
>
> Owen
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
This is the reason I'd only use it in situations where I could apply
light clamping pressure to prevent foaming within the joint. The
foamed glue has no structural strength whatsoever. To repeat, in my
experience, you can get good bonding IF you use fresh glue, (I've
found it actually makes sense to buy those little bottles unless I
have a really big project - you throw a lot less away), apply a
wetting layer to both surfaces, and apply light clamping pressure.
I guess the only other comment I'd make is that there is no magic
bullet when it comes to glues, each has it's good points and bad. As
designer-builders, we have to be sure we understand all the
parameters and then make a compromised choice (all choices are
compromises, somehow).
On Feb 27, 2008, at 7:08 AM, <harvey.rule@bell.ca> wrote:
> Be aware that Gorilla glue expands when curing.I made the mistake
> of using this stuff to put a rubber trim on my wing root
> covers.What a mess.
>
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-
> pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Glenn Thomas
> Sent: February 26, 2008 10:49 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Pietenpol-List: Re:
> Spruce Alternatives)
>
> >Teeny bottles of Gorilla Glue are even available on the checkout
> >lines at the local supermarket!
>
> Sure, but you're not building a diarama either. ...Plus you can
> pick up a tablesaw blade, some router bits and things you didn't
> even know you wanted once you get to Woodcraft.
>
>
> On 2/26/08, Owen Davies <owen5819@comcast.net> wrote:
> <owen5819@comcast.net>
>
> jimboyer@hughes.net wrote:
> > Check your local Woodcraft store; they carry T88 although they do
> > price it a little higher. They also have Titebond III which I did
> use
> > for the plywood over the instrument panel, storage area behind pilot
> > and over the front cockpit instrument panel.
> I didn't know they had T-88. The nearest Woodcraft is close to 90
> miles
> away, but I can live with that. When you figure in shipping, it
> probably
> balances out. OTOH, I can get Titebond III, Gorilla Glue, or the new
> Elmer's Nano at the nearest Home Depot, which is about four miles from
> here. Teeny bottles of Gorilla Glue are even available on the checkout
>
> --
> Glenn Thomas
> Storrs, CT
> http://www.flyingwood.com
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Continental engine drawing file |
taildrags(at)hotmail.com wrote:
> I've scanned the dimensioned 3-view drawing of the small Continental engine from Evans' manual to a .jpg and it can be viewed here: http://www.flysquirrel.net/piets/3view.jpg . If you want to snag it, just right-click on the image and 'save as'.
Cool! Got it, thanks.
Mike
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166533#166533
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| Subject: | Re: Piet building |
Carson,
Just spoke with Mary Jones of EAA and she assured me it would be on it's
way.
Enjoy
Gene in Tennessee
----- Original Message -----
From: "carson" <carsonvella@yahoo.com.au>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 8:22 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Re: Piet building
>
> Hi Gene
> No I don't think anyone has. It would be great if you could
> Thank you very much
> Carson
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166489#166489
>
>
> --
> 7:50 PM
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
There are some interesting pages about glues at
http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Adhesives/Adhesives.html#Types
and the links.
The author lists polyurethanes among the rubber adhesives but notes that
they could equally be considered thermosetting, like resorcinol and
epoxy. His description of polyurethanes reads: "Two component adhesives
which can be formulated for applications. Resistant to acids, oils, some
solvents and alkalis. Susceptible to moisture. Load bearing duties
viable. Flexible bonds suitable for shock and vibratory loading. High
strength joints." Elsewhere, he says polyurethanes are suitable for
applications involving vibration and shock, which sounds promising.
However, two component? How does this apply to the single-component
formulations we can find?
Also, I'm not sure how this meshes with Gordon's clearly knowledgeable
observations. It could be that they are both right: Polyurethane
adhesives are not nearly as good as epoxies, but they do not have to be
perfect in order to be good enough. Not sure I would want to trust that
guess, however.
With regard to PVA glues, there is conflicting information. According to
the source above, the PVA glues resist thermoplastic creep. However, he
says nothing about how the waterproof varieties compare with the
conventional white and yellow glues.
Unfortunately, the woodworkers who actually use white and yellow glues
say they are very susceptible to creep. It's a problem in curved
laminations, which are an exact parallel to our applications. However,
some of them report that they have cured the problem by going to
polyurethane glues!
In the pages above, the most interesting glues appear to be
rubber-modified epoxies. Fantastic strength and peel and sheer
resistance. No idea about cost or other limitations.
See also http://www.adhesivestoolkit.com/Introduction.xtp and
http://www.bondmaster.com/adhesives.asp.
At this point, resorcinol and T-88 are beginning to remind me of the old
line, "Nobody ever got fired for buying IBM." This does not satisfy my
wish for agrarian self-reliance. And one of the sources, I think it was
Adhesives Toolkit, says that resorcinols have some problems with shock.
Owen,
square in the middle of a city with 140,000 people
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
A more accurate line for this discussion is that I don't know enough to know
that I don't know.
>At this point, resorcinol and T-88 are beginning to remind me of the old
>line, "Nobody ever got fired for buying IBM." This does not satisfy my
>wish for agrarian self-reliance. And one of the sources, I think it was
>Adhesives Toolkit, says that resorcinols have some problems with shock.
>Owen,
Message 8
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| Subject: | Pietenpol for sale |
Anyone looking for a Piet should check out the one that was put up
yesterday on Barnstormers.com. Could be a great buy, depending on
the plane itself.
Gene
Message 9
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----- Original Message -----
From: Gene & Tammy
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 8:52 AM
Subject: Antennas
Wondering if anyone here has tried the "Air Whip" antenna put out by
Miracle antenna?
Gene
Down & out with the flu in Tennessee
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
For what it's worth, from the archives, here's a link to the glue comparison
article:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?t=31042
Personally, I have no problem with epoxy, and that's what I'm using. It's a
well proven adhesive that's easy to use, and not too difficult to obtain.
Some say it's messy, but I have no problems with it. However, there are
those that develop a sensitivity to epoxies, which would make their use
problematic. And resorcinol is a formaldehyde based adhesive. Formaldehyde
vapors are a known carcinogen (along with a gazillion other things, such as
wood dust). Having recently developed a nasty sensitivity to cyanoacrylates
(super glue), I can attest to the fact that it ain't no fun when you develop
a sudden difficulty to do things like breathing. The onset of my reaction
was sudden and unexpected. I don't go near the stuff anymore.
So, as a reminder, be sure to avoid getting adhesives on your skin, and
avoid breathing fumes from almost all adhesives. And look both ways before
crossing the street.
Bill C.
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Piet building |
Thanks Gene
I look forward to reading it
Thank you very much
Carson
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166635#166635
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
I Hear a lot of talk about t-88 as the best glue. I known from experience
that t-88 can lay on the surface (birch and mahogany ply) and not penetrate. I
think it is important be sure the glue is worked in. Moving the joint to be
sure both sides are well wetted. Also a cold shop makes the glue thicker and
less likely to penetrate.
I have been very impressed with the strength of construction adhesives.
They don't bubble like other polyurathanes(reducing bonding area), are water
proof, don't get brittle (like white glue)and you can get them at the local
Home Depot.
All this is just talk. Glue up some test pieces,test to destruction, and
feel good about your choice!
Howdy
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
owen5819(at)comcast.net wrote:
> There are some interesting pages about glues at
> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Adhesives/Adhesives.html#Types
> and the links.
>
> The author lists polyurethanes among the rubber adhesives but notes that
> they could equally be considered thermosetting, like resorcinol and
> epoxy. His description of polyurethanes reads: "Two component adhesives
> which can be formulated for applications. Resistant to acids, oils, some
> solvents and alkalis. Susceptible to moisture. Load bearing duties
> viable. Flexible bonds suitable for shock and vibratory loading. High
> strength joints." Elsewhere, he says polyurethanes are suitable for
> applications involving vibration and shock, which sounds promising.
> However, two component? How does this apply to the single-component
> formulations we can find?
>
> Also, I'm not sure how this meshes with Gordon's clearly knowledgeable
> observations. It could be that they are both right: Polyurethane
> adhesives are not nearly as good as epoxies, but they do not have to be
> perfect in order to be good enough. Not sure I would want to trust that
> guess, however.
>
> In the pages above, the most interesting glues appear to be
> rubber-modified epoxies. Fantastic strength and peel and sheer
> resistance. No idea about cost or other limitations.
>
>
Two components polyurethane adhesives differ from one component not in the basic
chemistry and cure reaction, but more in the intended application.
Both use a polyurethane polyol (short for polymeric alcohol, containing functional
-OH groups) and an isocyanate curative (containing functional -NCO groups).
-OH's and -NCO's react to form a urethane bond between the two molecules. Ideally
they (they being the -OH and _NCO groups hanging off the polyol and curative
molecules respectively) are present in pretty much equal quantities for a
complete cure reaction to take place. As a sidenote to remember, isocyanates
love to react with water - HOH, right? - forming urea and CO2 gas in the process.
Water will consume isocyanate curative if present during cure.
Two-component systems (we're not talking two part foams here, those are not adhesives
though they do stick to things somewhat) are part A & B like epoxies, with
one side generally consisting of the polyol, plasticizer if used, structural
fillers including thixotroping agents if called for, and coupling/wetting agents.
The other generally consists of the curative and fillers, said fillers
adding to the overall percentage of structural filler as well as modifying the
viscosity of the curative side into a convenient system for the end user. (for
those that know adhesives yeah I know adducts etc. are used but they are based
on these materials so I tried not to confuse the issue). There are other thises
and thats added on either side to modify this or that property. They can
be modified to be very elastic and pliable when cured, or to be more firm but
still with some elastomeric properties which makes them very good at absorbing
mechical shock. They bond to a wide variety of substrates quite tenaciously,
and are often a good choice for bonding dissimilar materials esp. with differing
mechanical or thermal expansion properties for example (hello, bondline stress),
i.e. they might be used for a flexible bond between steel and plastic parts.
These systems are not designed to foam, they are designed to fill moderate gaps
with 100% adhesive. As non-foaming systems, the surface contact on each substrate
is nearly 100%, and the cross-section is ideally void-free so that the mechanical
properties of the system are fully realized.
Water is bad for these systems, it will eat up valuable curative resulting in a
softer, weaker cured material with voids, and the mechanical properties all suffer.
The one component systems we're talking about here are all gap filling (foaming)
formulations. The basic constituents are a polyol, a blocked isocyanate (one
that stays pretty much non-reactive until it encounters a particular environment
to trigger it), and a surfactant.
Before I mentioned how much isocyanates love reacting with water, so you may wonder
what role water plays in this scenario, as the instructions advise you that
there must be moisture present. There are two:
1. Water is the key that unlocks the isocyanate curative. In the formulation, the
isocyanate percentage is based on what the polyol requires to cure, plus how
much will typically be consumed reacting with water.
2. Remember the CO2 gas the reaction produces? It gets put to use as the blowing
agent for the foam, aided by the surfactants (think soap..).
So when the material encounters moisture, the reactions begin:
- isocyanate molecules change structure to free the previously hog-tied reactive
-NCO groups, then
- isocyanate reacts with water to form CO2 gas and urea compounds (which are not
significant in themselves). Due to the reactivity of water and -NCO, this reaction
occurs more rapidly than, but simultaneously with..
- the -OH + -NCO cure reaction.
and you end with with a cured foam.
You can imagine easily how the foaming adhesives would have much different properties
than the two-part adhesives. In the case of wood, the foamed adhesives
are often tough enough to meet the surface properties of the substrates, meaning
the bond is as tough as the wood. Often but not always depending on the wood.
But when you are bonding non-porous materials with more dense surfaces, to
achieve maximum strength the adhesive will depend on a near-100% fill rate, i.e.
no foamy bubbles to weaken it.
There are one-part systems now that exhibit reduced foaming, through modifications
of the original formulations, but using water-sensitive blocked isocyanates
means by nature there will always be some foaming. Dunno what other similar
systems adhesive formulaters are working on these days.
Hope this sheds light on a few things, just trying to be helpful.
Mike
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166658#166658
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
MikeD wrote:
> Two components polyurethane adhesives differ from one component not in the basic
chemistry and cure reaction, but more in the intended application. [etc.]
Thanks, Mike. It sounds like the two-component polyurethanes could be
interesting alternatives to epoxy if the price were reasonable. Probably
not something to go way out of the way for unless there were a special need.
Owen
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| Subject: | Re: Another newbie looking for advise |
Hi Glenn,
The pictures are excellent and as I said in my last e-mail, were a big
help. One more question: What size wood did you cut the wedge from ? And
how long is it ? (Okay, 2 questions.)
Thanks,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Thomas
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Another newbie looking for advise
Hi Jim,
Here's how I did my ribs.
http://www.flyingwood.com/index.asp?page=8&filter=0
One of these days I'll push a piece of spar through them, and sand the
trailing and leading edges flush while they're all together like Rick
said.
Getting started is the hardest part. Welcome to the group.
On 2/17/08, quinn <quinnj@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
It must be newbie day. I just spent an hour going over current and
past e-mails, amazing. I do have my first question though. I'm setting
up my rib jig and am confused on how the trailing edge finishes. Is it
simply squared off with the capstrips ? What about the wedge material,
size ? Does anyone have a picture and/or advise ?
Thanks,
Jim Q.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164690#164690
--
Glenn Thomas
Storrs, CT
http://www.flyingwood.com
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Another newbie looking for advise |
Hi Jim,
When I ordered the capstrip material I also ordered a 4 foot lenth of 1/2" x
1/2" for the nose blocks and the trailing edge wedges. I read somewhere
that these wedges are very important. I ran out of 1/2" x 1/2" before I got
done with the ribs. If you are looking at ordering get 8 feet. I'm making
my tail feathers now and it also calls for 1/2" x 1/2" too as well as some
odd dimensions. The more you can get into 1 order means the less you'll pay
for shipping by the end of the project. A few months ago I just closed my
eyes while I submitted the order and bought a planer from Tyler tool and a
jointer from Woodcraft. I will be making all my wooden members from here
out using those 2 tools, my tablesaw and router table.
I almost forgot, the length of the wedge. I made them like this... the fat
end is 1/2" thick. I set a piece of this stock over the trailing edge and
drew the profile of the rib looking straight down on it to where it comes to
a point at the end. Then I cut the piece and was left with 2 wedges. Used
the belt sander to get it perfect. Each wedge is just about 2" long.
Where are you? I'm in the Northeast and there is a serious shortage of
Pietenpol builders out here. I just found another person in this wave of
new builders that showed up and I can't wait to meet him. I'm in CT and
he's in MA. I love to meet other builders because this project seems to
bring together a highly varied group with uncanny similar interests.
Feel free to ask as many questions as you want. If I can't answer I know a
few others who are fantastic builders that can. The Pietenpol forum is good
too but you end up with a lot of chatter sometimes that, in the end, leaves
you wondering. Once you get some parts built you will be on your way and
have a better sense of right and wrong. Right now the forum is a little
busy with an unusually large wave of builders and opinions.
Sorry. I turned your 1 sentence question into 4 paragraphs. Hope you have
fun with this project. There are a lot of great guys on the list that feel
the same way I do about sharing their experiences and can probably do it in
less words.
Good luck.
Glenn
On 2/27/08, Jim Quinn <quinnj@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> Hi Glenn,
>
> The pictures are excellent and as I said in my last e-mail, were a big
> help. One more question: What size wood did you cut the wedge from ? And how
> long is it ? (Okay, 2 questions.)
>
> Thanks,
>
> Jim
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> *From:* Glenn Thomas <glennthomas@flyingwood.com>
> *To:* pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> *Sent:* Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:10 PM
> *Subject:* Re: Pietenpol-List: Another newbie looking for advise
>
>
> Hi Jim,
> Here's how I did my ribs.
>
> http://www.flyingwood.com/index.asp?page=8&filter=0
>
> One of these days I'll push a piece of spar through them, and sand the
> trailing and leading edges flush while they're all together like Rick said.
>
> Getting started is the hardest part. Welcome to the group.
>
>
> On 2/17/08, quinn <quinnj@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
> >
> >
> > It must be newbie day. I just spent an hour going over current and past
> > e-mails, amazing. I do have my first question though. I'm setting up my rib
> > jig and am confused on how the trailing edge finishes. Is it simply squared
> > off with the capstrips ? What about the wedge material, size ? Does anyone
> > have a picture and/or advise ?
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Jim Q.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164690#164690
> >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Glenn Thomas
> > Storrs, CT
> > http://www.flyingwood.com
> >
> > *
> >
> > href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
> > href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> > href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c*
> >
> > *
>
> *
>
>
--
Glenn Thomas
Storrs, CT
http://www.flyingwood.com
Message 17
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| Subject: | Continental engine drawing file |
Rob,
I attached a .jpg screen shot of the drawing in autocad. Of course,
the nice thing about autocad is you can make very accurate
measurements on this drawing very easily, and draw your own parts to
see how they fit, then print to scale so you can actually make the
parts.
I'm pretty sure there are free programs out there that will let you
view autocad files so you could at least take measurements. There may
even be a free basic CAD program or two out there. I'm sure you could
buy a generic program for $100 or so, or maybe find a used version of
autocad to buy. A version that is 4-5 years old is worthless to a
company, but would still be very very useful for someone doing what we
are doing.
Steve Ruse
Quoting "Rob Stapleton, Jr." <foto@alaska.net>:
> Can this be converted into a graphic file like a jpeg? I don't use CAD
> software, but am curious what this would look like.
>
> Rob in Anchorage, AK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Grover
> Summers
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:15 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental engine drawing file
>
>
> Mike,
>
> How about a C-90 in AutoCAD format?
>
> Grover
>
> MikeD <mjdt@auracom.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I've hunted around but so far no luck. Does anyone know if and where I cou
ld
> scam a CAD file for a Continental A-65 or A-75? I don't need great detail,
> but the basic views that will give me footprint, mounting points, prop hub
> location etc.. IOW what you would need to design an engine mount and sketc
h
> a cowl around.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike
>
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives |
What would make it stronger?
Clif
Bill
I may be wrong about this, but I would disagree on that point as
stated. If a spar is built up of 3/4x3/34 laminations to a height of 4
1/4" with staggered joints and grain which is alternated, the total beam
will be much stronger than the wood it is made of.
Dick N.
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