Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:49 AM - Power setting question. (Tim)
2. 04:05 AM - Re: Power setting question. ()
3. 04:43 AM - Re: Polyurethane glues (Was: Re: Re: Spruce Alternatives) (gcardinal)
4. 04:51 AM - Re: Power setting question. (gcardinal)
5. 05:05 AM - Re: Power setting question. (Ben Charvet)
6. 05:34 AM - Re: Power setting question. (shad bell)
7. 05:43 AM - Re: Power setting question. (Ryan Mueller)
8. 06:37 AM - Re: Power setting question. ()
9. 09:34 AM - Re: Skiing (Skip Gadd)
10. 09:35 AM - Re: Power setting question. (Gordon Bowen)
11. 10:07 AM - Re: Power setting question. (Gene & Tammy)
12. 10:16 AM - Re: Continental engine drawing file (Rob Stapleton, Jr.)
13. 12:42 PM - Corvair engine drawing file (Oscar Zuniga)
14. 12:52 PM - Re: Corvair engine drawing file (Rob Stapleton, Jr.)
15. 01:08 PM - New Plans Owner, Builder Soon (JohnC)
16. 01:18 PM - Re: Continental engine drawing file (Bill Church)
17. 01:34 PM - Re: Power setting question. (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
18. 02:25 PM - Re: Power setting question. (Peter W Johnson)
19. 02:25 PM - Re: Continental engine drawing file (walt evans)
20. 02:52 PM - Re: Power setting question. (walt evans)
21. 03:04 PM - Re: Power setting question. (Richard Baker)
22. 03:05 PM - Wood nose cowl disc (HelsperSew@aol.com)
23. 03:46 PM - Re: Wood nose cowl disc (walt evans)
24. 04:15 PM - Fuel Sending Ideas (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
25. 04:44 PM - Re: Continental engine drawing file (MikeD)
26. 04:48 PM - Re: Fuel Sending Ideas (MikeD)
27. 05:02 PM - Re: Re: Fuel Sending Ideas (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
28. 06:56 PM - Re: Skiing (Don Emch)
29. 07:27 PM - Re: Spruce Alternatives (Dick Navratil)
30. 08:08 PM - Re: Another newbie looking for advise (Jim Quinn)
31. 08:16 PM - Re: Re: Fuel Sending Ideas (BScott116@aol.com)
32. 08:24 PM - Re: New Plans Owner, Builder Soon (Gary Boothe)
33. 09:49 PM - Re: Re: Fuel Sending Ideas (KMHeide, BA, CPO, FAAOP)
34. 11:32 PM - Re: Spruce Alternatives (Clif Dawson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Power setting question. |
Hello,
I purchased a Pietenpol a few years ago but have never flown it. It
has a Cont. 0-200/100 hp engine with a metal climb prop. This is a
lot of hp. for the plane. I would imagine that at full power (~2500
rpm) on the take off roll this amount of power would be
excessive. Would a lower power setting, say around
2200 rpm be better? There is 2600 ft of runway available. I would
appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Tim
Message 2
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| Subject: | Power setting question. |
Maybe it's just the way I've been trained but I always put full throttle
on during take off. I was told it's a safety thing. Just in case
anything goes bad it's a good idea to be as high as you can get without
putting that nose too high and going into a stall which the ultralight
guys like to do. Keep a steady climb at a safe angle at top speed until
you are at a safe level to throttle back. That's my take on it.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: February 28, 2008 6:47 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Power setting question.
Hello,
I purchased a Pietenpol a few years ago but have never flown it. It
has a Cont. 0-200/100 hp engine with a metal climb prop. This is a
lot of hp. for the plane. I would imagine that at full power (~2500
rpm) on the take off roll this amount of power would be
excessive. Would a lower power setting, say around
2200 rpm be better? There is 2600 ft of runway available. I would
appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Tim
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives) |
I have both of the Fine Woodworking glue articles scanned as pdf files.
The files are approx 1.5 mb and 1 mb in size. I can e-mail a copy to anyone
who is interested.
Contact me off list.
Greg Cardinal
gcardinal@comcast.net
>
> There are some interesting pages about glues at
> http://www.roymech.co.uk/Useful_Tables/Adhesives/Adhesives.html#Types and
> the links.
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Power setting question. |
Tim,
It won't be a problem. Pietenpols have flown with more than 100 hp.
Greg Cardinal
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim" <twilliams@mailmt.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 5:46 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Power setting question.
>
> Hello,
> I purchased a Pietenpol a few years ago but have never flown it. It
> has a Cont. 0-200/100 hp engine with a metal climb prop. This is a
> lot of hp. for the plane. I would imagine that at full power (~2500
> rpm) on the take off roll this amount of power would be
> excessive. Would a lower power setting, say around
> 2200 rpm be better? There is 2600 ft of runway available. I would
> appreciate any suggestions.
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Power setting question. |
Tim wrote:
>
> Hello,
> I purchased a Pietenpol a few years ago but have never flown it. It
> has a Cont. 0-200/100 hp engine with a metal climb prop. This is a
> lot of hp. for the plane. I would imagine that at full power (~2500
> rpm) on the take off roll this amount of power would be excessive.
> Would a lower power setting, say around
> 2200 rpm be better? There is 2600 ft of runway available. I would
> appreciate any suggestions.
> Thanks,
> Tim
What are you worried abou?. You should be able to climb out at a
steeper angle, so airspeed shouldn't be a problem. I agree with the
other poster. Use full throttle until you get to cruising altitude,
then adjust the throttle back. I've read that it is better for the
engine to run it at stated cruise rpm, than choosing a lower setting
after you get to cruise altitude. The William Wynn corvair conversion
puts out around 100 hp and there are hundreds of Piets flying with
that. We have one on our field and it climbs out nicely on full throttle.
Ben
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Power setting question. |
Tim, don't worry about the extra power. Too much power is not a problem, however
too much airspeed (anything over 90mph or so) is a bad thing in a Piet. I
saw 2 piets at Brodhead last year with 0-200's and no worries. Ours is a 100
HP corvair, and it climbs out nice at full power, and gets a good 75mph cruise.
Wide open gets about 85-90mph. 85 is about as fast as is comfortable in our
piet. Use the engine and don't worry, the power will make it a "Bush Piet
- STOL".
My 2 cents
Shad
NX92GB
---------------------------------
Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage.
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Power setting question. |
More power = better climb rate. Once at altitude throttle back to your desired
cruise.
In addition, here's some food for thought on the actual power output of an O-200...
http://www.flycorvair.com/thrust.html
(Oscar may have posted this recently. I can't find it, so here goes again.)
Ryan
Hello,
I purchased a Pietenpol a few years ago but have never flown it. It
has a Cont. 0-200/100 hp engine with a metal climb prop. This is a
lot of hp. for the plane. I would imagine that at full power (~2500
rpm) on the take off roll this amount of power would be
excessive. Would a lower power setting, say around
2200 rpm be better? There is 2600 ft of runway available. I would
appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Tim
---------------------------------
Message 8
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| Subject: | Power setting question. |
My Piet cruises at 85- 90(2200 rpm);usually climbs out at 60 (2500
rpm)and top speed is about 95-97(2500 rpm on the flat).Uses 85 hp
Franklin.Uses a lot of gas.
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of shad
bell
Sent: February 28, 2008 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power setting question.
Tim, don't worry about the extra power. Too much power is not a
problem, however too much airspeed (anything over 90mph or so) is a bad
thing in a Piet. I saw 2 piets at Brodhead last year with 0-200's and
no worries. Ours is a 100 HP corvair, and it climbs out nice at full
power, and gets a good 75mph cruise. Wide open gets about 85-90mph.
85 is about as fast as is comfortable in our piet. Use the engine and
don't worry, the power will make it a "Bush Piet - STOL".
My 2 cents
Shad
NX92GB
Message 9
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Don,
Very Cool!
I would like the measurements, when you get them.
Does the aft end on the skis dig in when you pull the plane backward into
the hangar at the end of the day?
Skip
> [Original Message]
> From: Don Emch <EmchAir@aol.com>
> To: <pietenpol-list@matronics.com>
> Date: 2/24/2008 10:04:52 PM
> Subject: Pietenpol-List: Skiing
>
>
> Just thought I'd share a couple of shots of my day spent skiing today.
Just when I thought I had as much fun as I could have with the Piet I
borrowed these skis from Frank Pavliga. What a ball! I think I'm going to
try to copy these skis. When I get some measurements made up I could share
them with others if interested.
>
> Don Emch
> NX899DE
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166044#166044
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/skiflyin_005_139.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/skiflyin_004_678.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/skiflyin_003_191.jpg
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/skiflyin_001_125.jpg
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Power setting question. |
Tim,
nuttin' to worry about, just control airspeed with full power on take-off,
it'll climb like an elevator. I have 0-235 100+hp in my plane and find I
like it about 2050 rpm at cruise of 70 mph, this keeps my ears from flappin'
in the wind like a dog with his head out the window. Landing is set up
again with airspeed of 60 mph and 1300 rpm. If you haven't flown this plane
before, set your glide up at a little higher speed and do a few go arounds
if you have to to get the feel. It won't quit flying until there's nothing
showing on the airspeed indicator if it's like mine, but each plane has a
diff feel. Do a bunch of 2000 agl slow flying with lazy eights, that will
get you the feel before landing. For me slow flying was about 1900 rpm,
holding altitude.
Gordon
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tim" <twilliams@mailmt.com>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 2:46 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Power setting question.
>
> Hello,
> I purchased a Pietenpol a few years ago but have never flown it. It has a
> Cont. 0-200/100 hp engine with a metal climb prop. This is a lot of hp.
> for the plane. I would imagine that at full power (~2500 rpm) on the take
> off roll this amount of power would be excessive. Would a lower power
> setting, say around
> 2200 rpm be better? There is 2600 ft of runway available. I would
> appreciate any suggestions.
> Thanks,
> Tim
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Power setting question. |
Tim,
I'd like to add only one bit of info. On landing, just before touch down,
add about 50 rpm above idle for a smooth landing.
My 2 cents worth
Gene over the flu in Tennessee
>
>
> --
> Release Date: 2/25/2008 12:00 AM
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Continental engine drawing file |
Hey thanks Steve. I have saved this to see what I can do with a cowling. I
plan on using the Corvair with the longer fuselage. But your suggestions are
good and I will search for a program, and then hit the list with a request
for a cad file of the corvair engine. I bet William Wynne will have one.
Regards,
Rob
Check out our EAA chapter website to get the news from the North.
www.eaa42.org, soon I will be putting up a website with Alaska Pientenpol
projects, so keep an eye out for it this month.
RS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Ruse
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:23 AM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental engine drawing file
Rob,
I attached a .jpg screen shot of the drawing in autocad. Of course,
the nice thing about autocad is you can make very accurate
measurements on this drawing very easily, and draw your own parts to
see how they fit, then print to scale so you can actually make the
parts.
I'm pretty sure there are free programs out there that will let you
view autocad files so you could at least take measurements. There may
even be a free basic CAD program or two out there. I'm sure you could
buy a generic program for $100 or so, or maybe find a used version of
autocad to buy. A version that is 4-5 years old is worthless to a
company, but would still be very very useful for someone doing what we
are doing.
Steve Ruse
Quoting "Rob Stapleton, Jr." <foto@alaska.net>:
> Can this be converted into a graphic file like a jpeg? I don't use CAD
> software, but am curious what this would look like.
>
> Rob in Anchorage, AK
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Grover
> Summers
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:15 PM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental engine drawing file
>
>
> Mike,
>
> How about a C-90 in AutoCAD format?
>
> Grover
>
> MikeD <mjdt@auracom.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi folks,
>
> I've hunted around but so far no luck. Does anyone know if and where I
could
> scam a CAD file for a Continental A-65 or A-75? I don't need great detail,
> but the basic views that will give me footprint, mounting points, prop hub
> location etc.. IOW what you would need to design an engine mount and
sketch
> a cowl around.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mike
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Corvair engine drawing file |
Rob;
When the time comes for you to start looking at your Corvair engine in AutoCAD
or other drawing program, ping me again. I think I may be able to help with some
CAD files or 3-views of the Corvair.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 14
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| Subject: | Corvair engine drawing file |
Oscar,
Sounds good to me. Right now I am concentrating on building ribs 12 to go,
and then getting the fuselage up on the gear. I have the typical tail wheel,
and the gear is welded but I need to get wheels and tires brakes etc.
When this is done I will get an engine mount welded up and then I will be
ready for the engine drawings. So, please keep me in mind.
Regards from Alaska.
www.alaskasportpilotcenter.net is my current website, but soon I will also
have one for the Piet.
RS
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Oscar Zuniga
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:39 AM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Corvair engine drawing file
Rob;
When the time comes for you to start looking at your Corvair engine in
AutoCAD or other drawing program, ping me again. I think I may be able to
help with some CAD files or 3-views of the Corvair.
Oscar Zuniga
San Antonio, TX
mailto: taildrags@hotmail.com
website at http://www.flysquirrel.net
Message 15
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| Subject: | New Plans Owner, Builder Soon |
Hello every one! I'm so happy I found you guys. I am a new Plans owner and a soon
to be builder. My plans arrived in the mail on Saturday and I have been studying
them quite intently. Many questions have come up in my studies and I am
sure you guys (and gals) will have the answers for me when I need them. I am
going to browse this board a bit more and try to make sure I don't ask too many
redundant questions. Thanks for having me!
John C.
Louisville Kentucky
P.S. I guess like most of the people here, this will begin my pursuit of a life
long Dream. I just hope that when it's my turn to reach up and touch the face
of God, I don't poke him in the eye on accident.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166800#166800
Message 16
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| Subject: | Continental engine drawing file |
Rob,
I can't remember where I got this from, but attached is a JPEG of an Autocad
drawing of the corvair engine, as well as the DWG file.
Bill C.
Message 17
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| Subject: | Power setting question. |
Harvey,
If you put 6 more revolutions on that rubber band it will improve gas milage
three fold! The Franklin uses a 3/4" fuel line doesn't it? I know now why you
were buying BP fuel stock....
Ken
harvey.rule@bell.ca wrote:
v\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} o\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
w\:* {behavior:url(#default#VML);} .shape {behavior:url(#default#VML);}
st1\:*{behavior:url(#default#ieooui) } My Piet cruises at 85-
90(2200 rpm);usually climbs out at 60 (2500 rpm)and top speed is about 95-97(2500
rpm on the flat).Uses 85 hp Franklin.Uses a lot of gas.
---------------------------------
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of shad bell
Sent: February 28, 2008 8:28 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power setting question.
Tim, don't worry about the extra power. Too much power is not a problem, however
too much airspeed (anything over 90mph or so) is a bad thing in a Piet. I
saw 2 piets at Brodhead last year with 0-200's and no worries. Ours is a 100
HP corvair, and it climbs out nice at full power, and gets a good 75mph cruise.
Wide open gets about 85-90mph. 85 is about as fast as is comfortable in our
piet. Use the engine and don't worry, the power will make it a "Bush Piet
- STOL".
My 2 cents
Shad
NX92GB
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to return,
to break the surly bonds of earth and touch the face of God!"
-da Vinci/John Gillespie Magee
---------------------------------
Message 18
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| Subject: | Power setting question. |
Tim,
I have 100hp (ish) on my Corvair powered Piet and it is always full power on
take off. As Harvey says, you can always pull it back a bit when safely on
your way.
Cheers
Peter
Wonthaggi Australia
http://www.cpc-world.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim
Sent: Thursday, 28 February 2008 10:47 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Power setting question.
Hello,
I purchased a Pietenpol a few years ago but have never flown it. It
has a Cont. 0-200/100 hp engine with a metal climb prop. This is a
lot of hp. for the plane. I would imagine that at full power (~2500
rpm) on the take off roll this amount of power would be
excessive. Would a lower power setting, say around
2200 rpm be better? There is 2600 ft of runway available. I would
appreciate any suggestions.
Thanks,
Tim
4:34 PM
4:34 PM
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Continental engine drawing file |
I haven't read all the posts on this thread, but would it help if I scanned
the dimentional drawing from the Continental manual?
walt evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: "Rob Stapleton, Jr." <foto@alaska.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:13 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental engine drawing file
> <foto@alaska.net>
>
> Hey thanks Steve. I have saved this to see what I can do with a cowling. I
> plan on using the Corvair with the longer fuselage. But your suggestions
> are
> good and I will search for a program, and then hit the list with a request
> for a cad file of the corvair engine. I bet William Wynne will have one.
> Regards,
> Rob
> Check out our EAA chapter website to get the news from the North.
> www.eaa42.org, soon I will be putting up a website with Alaska Pientenpol
> projects, so keep an eye out for it this month.
> RS
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Steve Ruse
> Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 5:23 AM
> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Continental engine drawing file
>
> Rob,
>
> I attached a .jpg screen shot of the drawing in autocad. Of course,
> the nice thing about autocad is you can make very accurate
> measurements on this drawing very easily, and draw your own parts to
> see how they fit, then print to scale so you can actually make the
> parts.
>
> I'm pretty sure there are free programs out there that will let you
> view autocad files so you could at least take measurements. There may
> even be a free basic CAD program or two out there. I'm sure you could
> buy a generic program for $100 or so, or maybe find a used version of
> autocad to buy. A version that is 4-5 years old is worthless to a
> company, but would still be very very useful for someone doing what we
> are doing.
>
> Steve Ruse
>
>
> Quoting "Rob Stapleton, Jr." <foto@alaska.net>:
>
>> Can this be converted into a graphic file like a jpeg? I don't use CAD
>> software, but am curious what this would look like.
>>
>> Rob in Anchorage, AK
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Grover
>> Summers
>> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 2:15 PM
>> To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Continental engine drawing file
>>
>>
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> How about a C-90 in AutoCAD format?
>>
>> Grover
>>
>> MikeD <mjdt@auracom.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi folks,
>>
>> I've hunted around but so far no luck. Does anyone know if and where I
> could
>> scam a CAD file for a Continental A-65 or A-75? I don't need great
>> detail,
>> but the basic views that will give me footprint, mounting points, prop
>> hub
>> location etc.. IOW what you would need to design an engine mount and
> sketch
>> a cowl around.
>>
>> Thanks!
>>
>> Mike
>>
>>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: Power setting question. |
Don't remember any instructor I've flown with not asking for full power on
takeoff.
Still remember learning in the '60's, with my instructor Dick Plahn (WWII,
P51,P38,P39,P40, B25) Calling out from the right seat of a 172 "full
throttle, feet off the brakes"
More power just means you can yank that nose up really high.
walt evans
NX140DL
Message 21
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| Subject: | Power setting question. |
Full power setting enriches the mixture to prevent detonation.
Dick Baker
www.aerovisiontech.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of walt evans
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 5:51 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Power setting question.
Don't remember any instructor I've flown with not asking for full power on
takeoff.
Still remember learning in the '60's, with my instructor Dick Plahn (WWII,
P51,P38,P39,P40, B25) Calling out from the right seat of a 172 "full
throttle, feet off the brakes"
More power just means you can yank that nose up really high.
walt evans
NX140DL
4:34 PM
4:34 PM
Message 22
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| Subject: | Wood nose cowl disc |
Hi Gang,
I am getting nearer to the finish line. I am currently building my cowlings.
I have a question for those guys that have used the Ford A engine. On the
last page of my Hoopman plans (3/20/34), it shows a pine disc to help form the
nose cowl to the engine cowl. It says "disc to join cowling and cone bolted
to engine while building cowling, remove bolts before attaching cone". Does
this pine disc stay with the airplane as an integral part, or does it get
discarded after the cowling is all formed and put together? I think it stays,
but
the more I think about it, maybe not. Please help.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: Wood nose cowl disc |
No the pine disc is used just to fabricate the cowling from the fuse
forward to the prop. then the pine disc goes away, to the box of "old
airplane jigs" which only brings memories in the future years.
walt evans
NX140DL
"No one ever learned anything by talking"
Ben Franklin
----- Original Message -----
From: HelsperSew@aol.com
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 6:02 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: Wood nose cowl disc
Hi Gang,
I am getting nearer to the finish line. I am currently building my
cowlings. I have a question for those guys that have used the Ford A
engine. On the last page of my Hoopman plans (3/20/34), it shows a pine
disc to help form the nose cowl to the engine cowl. It says "disc to
join cowling and cone bolted to engine while building cowling, remove
bolts before attaching cone". Does this pine disc stay with the
airplane as an integral part, or does it get discarded after the cowling
is all formed and put together? I think it stays, but the more I think
about it, maybe not. Please help.
Dan Helsper
Poplar Grove, IL.
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
Delicious ideas to please the pickiest eaters. Watch the video on AOL
Living.
Message 24
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| Subject: | Fuel Sending Ideas |
Fellow Pieter's.....
Or should I say Pieter fellows?...either way, here is some of the hardware and
results of building and testing for a new fuel sight gauge on my tank. Remember,
this is a test sample to see what works...this is a "professional" please
do not attempt to preform this at home or in your work shop! tee-hee-hee
I started with a bunch of items from the local hardware store. After creating
a vision, I narrowed it down to the aluminum driveway marker, copper water knocker,
a few copper reducers and two brass sleeves to provide a smooth inside
surface to work with.
I tested this in a bucket of water and found the small aluminum canister of Axe
works great but not strong enough for my liking. Therefore, I have created
another aluminum shaft with a 2oz can of WD-40 (not yet finished). After draining
the contents, drilling, and epoxy the aluminum shaft in place, this set up
works very nice. No binding and smooth shaft movement...
Anyone else experiment with tank gages other than the wire. With my eyesight,
The red cap is easily seen from a distance and the gauge hole is slightly off
center so I can see the gauge when a passenger is in the front cockpit. Once
I have tested this system further, I'll show a photo of the whole gauge in the
tank.
Thoughts or opinions? I have more photos if interested...
Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to return,
to break the surly bonds of earth and touch the face of God!"
-da Vinci/John Gillespie Magee
---------------------------------
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| Subject: | Re: Continental engine drawing file |
waltdak(at)verizon.net wrote:
> I haven't read all the posts on this thread, but would it help if I scanned
> the dimentional drawing from the Continental manual?
> walt evans
> NX140DL
>
> "No one ever learned anything by talking"
> Ben Franklin
> ---
Hi Walt,
If you mean would it help me (the thread starter) or one of the other folks in
here? If me, I have access to manuals, that's no prob, but thanks. My original
quest was to beg a copy of a CAD drawing of a small Continental, figuring someone
out these must have one somewhere. Mind you, I'm not sure how many Piet enthusiasts
also spend their time designing other aircraft on CAD. Kind of a niche
within a niche, cuts down on the likelihood a bit I guess!
Mike
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166835#166835
Message 26
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sending Ideas |
kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Fellow Pieter's.....
>
> Or should I say Pieter fellows?...either way, here is some of the hardware
and results of building and testing for a new fuel sight gauge on my tank. Remember,
this is a test sample to see what works...this is a "professional" please
do not attempt to preform this at home or in your work shop! tee-hee-hee
>
> I started with a bunch of items from the local hardware store. After creating
a vision, I narrowed it down to the aluminum driveway marker, copper water
knocker, a few copper reducers and two brass sleeves to provide a smooth inside
surface to work with.
>
> I tested this in a bucket of water and found the small aluminum canister of
Axe works great but not strong enough for my liking. Therefore, I have created
another aluminum shaft with a 2oz can of WD-40 (not yet finished). After draining
the contents, drilling, and epoxy the aluminum shaft in place, this set
up works very nice. No binding and smooth shaft movement...
>
> Anyone else experiment with tank gages other than the wire. With my eyesight,
The red cap is easily seen from a distance and the gauge hole is slightly off
center so I can see the gauge when a passenger is in the front cockpit. Once
I have tested this system further, I'll show a photo of the whole gauge in the
tank.
>
> Thoughts or opinions? I have more photos if interested...
>
> Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
>
>
I can't figure out how you get the float into the tank.. [Question]
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166838#166838
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sending Ideas |
Hey Mike,
I insert the float with my hands into the tanks and then fish it up into the
opening. Then I screw the sight gauge into place. I will epoxy the red cap on
the top which prevents it from falling all the way into the tank. I have around
2.5 to 3.0 gallons left when empty.
Ken
MikeD <mjdt@auracom.com> wrote:
kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Fellow Pieter's.....
>
> Or should I say Pieter fellows?...either way, here is some of the hardware and
results of building and testing for a new fuel sight gauge on my tank. Remember,
this is a test sample to see what works...this is a "professional" please
do not attempt to preform this at home or in your work shop! tee-hee-hee
>
> I started with a bunch of items from the local hardware store. After creating
a vision, I narrowed it down to the aluminum driveway marker, copper water knocker,
a few copper reducers and two brass sleeves to provide a smooth inside
surface to work with.
>
> I tested this in a bucket of water and found the small aluminum canister of Axe
works great but not strong enough for my liking. Therefore, I have created
another aluminum shaft with a 2oz can of WD-40 (not yet finished). After draining
the contents, drilling, and epoxy the aluminum shaft in place, this set up
works very nice. No binding and smooth shaft movement...
>
> Anyone else experiment with tank gages other than the wire. With my eyesight,
The red cap is easily seen from a distance and the gauge hole is slightly off
center so I can see the gauge when a passenger is in the front cockpit. Once
I have tested this system further, I'll show a photo of the whole gauge in the
tank.
>
> Thoughts or opinions? I have more photos if interested...
>
> Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
>
>
I can't figure out how you get the float into the tank.. [Question]
--------
Piet-builder-who-hopes-to-be-flying-next-summer
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166838#166838
Kenneth M. Heide, BA, CPO, FAAOP
"Once you have flown, you will walk the earth with your eyes
turned skyward, for there you have been, there you long to return,
to break the surly bonds of earth and touch the face of God!"
-da Vinci/John Gillespie Magee
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
Message 28
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Skip,
I can drag it backwards fairly easily if it is on level snow. At first I was shoveling
snow into the hangar to move it in and out. Not a pretty sight to anybody
that might have been watching me shove on the thing! I thought it was a
good theory but it just doesn't glide across shoveled snow like it does across
nice level snow. Anyway I got a pair of furniture dollys and I set it up on
those while it's in the hangar now. Once again we have good snow on the ground
here, so I'm going to try to for a little skiing again this weekend! Maybe
find a snowmobile to chase!
Don Emch
NX899DE
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166858#166858
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives |
Cliff
Instead of having a one ply grain with only one orientation of the
grain, stacking plys with grain running in different directions would
add strength and limit the possibility of warping.. Same principal as
plywood vs regular board.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:32 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Spruce Alternatives
What would make it stronger?
Clif
Bill
I may be wrong about this, but I would disagree on that point as
stated. If a spar is built up of 3/4x3/34 laminations to a height of 4
1/4" with staggered joints and grain which is alternated, the total beam
will be much stronger than the wood it is made of.
Dick N.
Message 30
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| Subject: | Re: Another newbie looking for advise |
Hi Glenn,
Once again, thank you!
I ordered the 1/2 x 1/2 with my capstrip order to do the nose piece; I
got 6', sounds like I'll be ordering more ! I was hoping that was what
you used as my jig in now finished and that was my last question, for
this week.
I live in Wisconsin, about an hour and a half from Brodhead and an hour
and 15 from Oshkosh. I know, so close to Mecca. The list has been
incredible, and the info you have given me is a great example. I have
found several builders in my area but have yet to meet any personally. I
hope to change that in the near future.
No need to apologize for the 4 paragraph answer. I think I'm doing 3
paragraphs to say thank you. I will make my first rib this week and it
is exciting to finally get underway. And thanks for the open invitation
to ask questions, I know I have many to come.
Thanks again Glenn, I'm sure we will meet this summer at either Brodhead
or Oshkosh. Also, I'll bet we will e-mail again soon !
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Thomas
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Another newbie looking for advise
Hi Jim,
When I ordered the capstrip material I also ordered a 4 foot lenth of
1/2" x 1/2" for the nose blocks and the trailing edge wedges. I read
somewhere that these wedges are very important. I ran out of 1/2" x
1/2" before I got done with the ribs. If you are looking at ordering
get 8 feet. I'm making my tail feathers now and it also calls for 1/2"
x 1/2" too as well as some odd dimensions. The more you can get into 1
order means the less you'll pay for shipping by the end of the project.
A few months ago I just closed my eyes while I submitted the order and
bought a planer from Tyler tool and a jointer from Woodcraft. I will be
making all my wooden members from here out using those 2 tools, my
tablesaw and router table.
I almost forgot, the length of the wedge. I made them like this...
the fat end is 1/2" thick. I set a piece of this stock over the
trailing edge and drew the profile of the rib looking straight down on
it to where it comes to a point at the end. Then I cut the piece and
was left with 2 wedges. Used the belt sander to get it perfect. Each
wedge is just about 2" long.
Where are you? I'm in the Northeast and there is a serious shortage
of Pietenpol builders out here. I just found another person in this
wave of new builders that showed up and I can't wait to meet him. I'm
in CT and he's in MA. I love to meet other builders because this
project seems to bring together a highly varied group with uncanny
similar interests.
Feel free to ask as many questions as you want. If I can't answer I
know a few others who are fantastic builders that can. The Pietenpol
forum is good too but you end up with a lot of chatter sometimes that,
in the end, leaves you wondering. Once you get some parts built you
will be on your way and have a better sense of right and wrong. Right
now the forum is a little busy with an unusually large wave of builders
and opinions.
Sorry. I turned your 1 sentence question into 4 paragraphs. Hope you
have fun with this project. There are a lot of great guys on the list
that feel the same way I do about sharing their experiences and can
probably do it in less words.
Good luck.
Glenn
On 2/27/08, Jim Quinn <quinnj@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
Hi Glenn,
The pictures are excellent and as I said in my last e-mail, were a
big help. One more question: What size wood did you cut the wedge from ?
And how long is it ? (Okay, 2 questions.)
Thanks,
Jim
----- Original Message -----
From: Glenn Thomas
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 9:10 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Another newbie looking for advise
Hi Jim,
Here's how I did my ribs.
http://www.flyingwood.com/index.asp?page=8&filter=0
One of these days I'll push a piece of spar through them, and sand
the trailing and leading edges flush while they're all together like
Rick said.
Getting started is the hardest part. Welcome to the group.
On 2/17/08, quinn <quinnj@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
<quinnj@sbcglobal.net>
It must be newbie day. I just spent an hour going over current
and past e-mails, amazing. I do have my first question though. I'm
setting up my rib jig and am confused on how the trailing edge finishes.
Is it simply squared off with the capstrips ? What about the wedge
material, size ? Does anyone have a picture and/or advise ?
Thanks,
Jim Q.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=164690#164690
--
Glenn Thomas
Storrs, CT
http://www.flyingwood.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.mat
ronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
--
Glenn Thomas
Storrs, CT
http://www.flyingwood.com
Message 31
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sending Ideas |
good project, but looks like you can only install the float when the gauge
is directly below the filler neck??So, can you epoxy the gauge fitting into
the tank bottom or is that a weld requirement?
In a message dated 2/28/2008 7:03:38 P.M. Central Standard Time,
kmheidecpo@yahoo.com writes:
Hey Mike,
I insert the float with my hands into the tanks and then fish it up into the
opening. Then I screw the sight gauge into place. I will epoxy the red cap
on the top which prevents it from falling all the way into the tank. I have
around 2.5 to 3.0 gallons left when empty.
Ken
MikeD <mjdt@auracom.com> wrote:
--> Pietenpol-List message posted by: "MikeD"
kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Fellow Pieter's.....
>
> Or should I say Pieter fellows?...either way, here is some of the hardware
and results of building and testing for a new fuel sight gauge on my tank.
Remember, this is a test sample to see what works...this is a "professional"
please do not attempt to preform this at home or in your work shop! tee-hee-hee
>
> I started with a bunch of items from the local hardware store. After
creating a vision, I narrowed it down to the aluminum driveway marker, copper
water knocker, a few copper reducers and two brass sleeves to provide a smooth
inside surface to work with.
>
> I tested this in a bucket of water and found the small aluminum canister
of Axe works great but not strong enough for my liking. Therefore, I have
created another aluminum shaft with a 2oz can of WD-40 (not yet finished). After
draining the contents, drilling, and epoxy the aluminum shaft in place, this
set up works very nice. No binding and smooth shaft movement...
>
> Anyone else experiment with tank gages other than the wire. With my
eyesight, The red cap is easily seen from a distance and the gauge hole is slightly
off center so I can see the gauge when a passenger is in the front cockpit.
Once I have tested this system further, I'll show a photo of the whole
-da Vinci/John Gillespie Magee
____________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
(http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List)
(http://www.matronics.com/contribution)
**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
Message 32
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| Subject: | New Plans Owner, Builder Soon |
Hi John,
Welcome! I know your feeling well, as I saw my first Pietenpol in 1972, got
out of flying for many years, bought a set of plans several years ago, and
am just now getting started.
I refuse to pay $1,000+ for spruce, when there are many very good
alternatives available, locally, to almost anyone. Last weekend I went on a
wood hunt and finally decided to go with poplar, and have found abundance,
though one needs to know what to look for, and be selective.
After just a few hours of milling wood, I almost have all the pieces cut for
the tail group, so I am barely getting started ahead of you. I have found
the archives incredibly helpful!
If you haven't done it already, check out www.westcoastpiet.com.
Happy building and I look forward to going through this dream with you!
Gary Boothe
Cool, CA
WW Conversion 90% done,
Making sawdust!
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of JohnC
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:06 PM
Subject: Pietenpol-List: New Plans Owner, Builder Soon
Hello every one! I'm so happy I found you guys. I am a new Plans owner and
a soon to be builder. My plans arrived in the mail on Saturday and I have
been studying them quite intently. Many questions have come up in my studies
and I am sure you guys (and gals) will have the answers for me when I need
them. I am going to browse this board a bit more and try to make sure I
don't ask too many redundant questions. Thanks for having me!
John C.
Louisville Kentucky
P.S. I guess like most of the people here, this will begin my pursuit of a
life long Dream. I just hope that when it's my turn to reach up and touch
the face of God, I don't poke him in the eye on accident.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=166800#166800
Message 33
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| Subject: | Re: Fuel Sending Ideas |
BScott:
Here is a photo of the tank fuel opening and the fuel sending unit flange. I
made it so that the sending unit flange is only a few inches away from the filler
neck. This way it is angled slightly out of the way of the front seat passenger
and in clear view off to my right side looking forward.
The fuel gauge is pipe threaded into the tank with locktite in case I have to
remove it for repairs! I will take a photo of the compete set-up tomorrow for
you to see.
Ken
BScott116@aol.com wrote:
good project, but looks like you can only install the float when the gauge
is directly below the filler neck??So, can you epoxy the gauge fitting into
the tank bottom or is that a weld requirement?
In a message dated 2/28/2008 7:03:38 P.M. Central Standard Time, kmheidecpo@yahoo.com
writes:
Hey Mike,
I insert the float with my hands into the tanks and then fish it up into the
opening. Then I screw the sight gauge into place. I will epoxy the red cap on
the top which prevents it from falling all the way into the tank. I have around
2.5 to 3.0 gallons left when empty.
Ken
MikeD <mjdt@auracom.com> wrote:
kmheidecpo(at)yahoo.com wrote:
> Fellow Pieter's.....
>
> Or should I say Pieter fellows?...either way, here is some of the hardware and
results of building and testing for a new fuel sight gauge on my tank. Remember,
this is a test sample to see what works...this is a "professional" please
do not attempt to preform this at home or in your work shop! tee-hee-hee
>
> I started with a bunch of items from the local hardware store. After creating
a vision, I narrowed it down to the aluminum driveway marker, copper water knocker,
a few copper reducers and two brass sleeves to provide a smooth inside
surface to work with.
>
> I tested this in a bucket of water and found the small aluminum canister of Axe
works great but not strong enough for my liking. Therefore, I have created
another aluminum shaft with a 2oz can of WD-40 (not yet finished). After draining
the contents, drilling, and epoxy the aluminum shaft in place, this set up
works very nice. No binding and smooth shaft movement...
>
> Anyone else experiment with tank gages other than the wire. With my eyesight,
The red cap is easily seen from a distance and the gauge hole is slightly off
center so I can see the gauge when a passenger is in the front cockpit. Once
I have tested this system further, I'll show a photo of the whole
-da Vinci/John Gillespie Magee
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Be a better friend, newshound, and
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Message 34
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| Subject: | Re: Spruce Alternatives |
Having the grain varied will help with warping but you're still
dealing with tension at one cap and compression at the other.
In wood compression strength is less than tensile so there
will be failure in compression first. This means that the
compressive strength of the wood is the deciding factor.
You can't make that stronger by laying plies in any direction.
In fact, if you make it like plywood, with the layers at 90=B0 or
even 45=B0, it WILL be weaker in the lengthwise direction.
And that is the primary direction the stresses line up with.
Clif
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick Navratil
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 7:23 PM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Spruce Alternatives
Cliff
Instead of having a one ply grain with only one orientation of the
grain, stacking plys with grain running in different directions would
add strength and limit the possibility of warping.. Same principal as
plywood vs regular board.
Dick
----- Original Message -----
From: Clif Dawson
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 1:32 AM
Subject: Re: Pietenpol-List: Spruce Alternatives
What would make it stronger?
Clif
Bill
I may be wrong about this, but I would disagree on that point as
stated. If a spar is built up of 3/4x3/34 laminations to a height of 4
1/4" with staggered joints and grain which is alternated, the total beam
will be much stronger than the wood it is made of.
Dick N.
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2/28/2008 12:14 PM
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