Today's Message Index:
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1. 09:32 AM - Questions about nails and varnish ()
2. 09:54 AM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (TOM STINEMETZE)
3. 10:19 AM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (Bill Church)
4. 11:19 AM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (Brian Kraut)
5. 11:27 AM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (Jack T. Textor)
6. 12:11 PM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (Bill Church)
7. 12:32 PM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (Phillips, Jack)
8. 02:00 PM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (jimd)
9. 02:51 PM - Re: Questions about nails and varnish (Brian Kraut)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Questions about nails and varnish |
I've finally begun construction of my Piet, starting out by building the tail section
first. Just about done with the vertical fin, and will begin on the rudder
in the next few days. My questions at the moment are:
1) are aircraft nails necessary for the assembly process, or can I skip the nails
all together and just use an adequate number of clamps to hold things in place
while the T-88 sets?
2) what specific brands and type of varnish is everybody using to seal and protect
the wood, and how many coats of varnish are required?
I'm not at the point where I'm ready to varnish anything yet, but I'd just like
to know what's needed before I get to that stage.
Billy McCaskill
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Questions about nails and varnish |
Bill:
Here is my 2 cents worth.
> 1) are aircraft nails necessary for the assembly process, or can I
skip the nails all together
and just use an adequate number of clamps to hold things in
place while the T-88 sets?
Since the glue joint is the source of strength, not the nails, clamps
work just fine.
Make sure your joints are snug and clean (shop vac or air pressure).
Also rough
the mating surfaces a little with 60-80 grit so the T-88 has some
"tooth" to grab
on to. Don't clamp too tight or the joint will be glue starved.
> 2) what specific brands and type of varnish is everybody using to
seal and protect the wood,
and how many coats of varnish are required?
I am using Ace brand urathane spar varnish and have been told it will
not lift if
properly cured prior to covering. The first coat should be thinned 50
percent
for good wood penetration. One more coat should do it for parts that
will not
see the light of day. Use at least two more coats for exposed
surfaces.
Tom Stinemetze
McPherson, KS
Message 3
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| Subject: | Questions about nails and varnish |
>From what I have read, Spar Varnish is a very good, economical alternative
to the higher priced epoxy finishes. It is fully water resistant and
contains UV protection (designed to protect exterior woodwork on boats). It
does, however need to fully cure before you start applying covering
adhesives and finishes, or the solvents in the adhesives etc. will attack
the varnish. I believe the varnish should be allowed to cure for about a
month before attempting any covering.
Here's a little practical tip regarding Spar Varnish.
If you use satin finish, it will brush (or spray) on with a wet look, but
cure with a matte finish (not glossy). When you go to do the next coat, it
will be much easier to determine where you have applied the second coat, and
where you have missed. But if you use the high gloss stuff, it's very
difficult to tell what has gotten the second (or third) coat and what
hasn't. If you prefer the look of a glossy finish, just use the high gloss
finish for the final top coat.
Bill C.
Message 4
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| Subject: | Questions about nails and varnish |
What is a good varnish to use if you are going to be covering very soon
after?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Church
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:17 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
From what I have read, Spar Varnish is a very good, economical alternative
to the higher priced epoxy finishes. It is fully water resistant and
contains UV protection (designed to protect exterior woodwork on boats). It
does, however need to fully cure before you start applying covering
adhesives and finishes, or the solvents in the adhesives etc. will attack
the varnish. I believe the varnish should be allowed to cure for about a
month before attempting any covering.
Here's a little practical tip regarding Spar Varnish.
If you use satin finish, it will brush (or spray) on with a wet look, but
cure with a matte finish (not glossy). When you go to do the next coat, it
will be much easier to determine where you have applied the second coat, and
where you have missed. But if you use the high gloss stuff, it's very
difficult to tell what has gotten the second (or third) coat and what
hasn't. If you prefer the look of a glossy finish, just use the high gloss
finish for the final top coat.
Bill C.
Message 5
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| Subject: | Questions about nails and varnish |
Bill,
I've heard that Ace Spar Varnish is the "one" that works will all
coverings. The only finish I could find it in is Gloss. Wish I could
find it in Satin.
Jack
www.textors.com
________________________________
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill
Church
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 12:17 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
>From what I have read, Spar Varnish is a very good, economical
alternative to the higher priced epoxy finishes. It is fully water
resistant and contains UV protection (designed to protect exterior
woodwork on boats). It does, however need to fully cure before you start
applying covering adhesives and finishes, or the solvents in the
adhesives etc. will attack the varnish. I believe the varnish should be
allowed to cure for about a month before attempting any covering.
Here's a little practical tip regarding Spar Varnish.
If you use satin finish, it will brush (or spray) on with a wet look,
but cure with a matte finish (not glossy). When you go to do the next
coat, it will be much easier to determine where you have applied the
second coat, and where you have missed. But if you use the high gloss
stuff, it's very difficult to tell what has gotten the second (or third)
coat and what hasn't. If you prefer the look of a glossy finish, just
use the high gloss finish for the final top coat.
Bill C.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Questions about nails and varnish |
Jack,
Minwax sells a product called Helmsman Spar Urethane. It is available in
Satin, Semi-gloss and Gloss finishes. I haven't used it on my Piet woodwork
yet, as I am not at that stage yet, but last summer I did build a couple of
deck chairs (made of cyprus) that sit outside all year, and they were
finished with it. We just lost our snow in the last couple of weeks, and I
got a chance to see how they weathered the winter, and they look fine.
If you need a flying example of a Piet finished with Helmsman Spar Urethane
by Minwax, look no further than ...... Mike Cuy (at least that's what he
says he used in his rather well known video). And I think NX48MC's been
flying for about 10 years now, so I think it'll do the job.
Bill C.
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jack T.
Textor
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 2:22 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
Bill,
I've heard that Ace Spar Varnish is the "one" that works will all coverings.
The only finish I could find it in is Gloss. Wish I could find it in Satin.
Jack
www.textors.com
Message 7
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| Subject: | Questions about nails and varnish |
Brian, the very best varnish available, IMHO, is PolyFiber's Epoxy
Varnish. It is absolutely bulletproof and will not be lifted by their
finishing materials. It ain't cheap, though at about $24 a quart ($60
for a quart kit, which yields 2.5 quarts of mixed varnish).
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
_____
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian
Kraut
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 2:15 PM
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
What is a good varnish to use if you are going to be covering very soon
after?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill
Church
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:17 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
From what I have read, Spar Varnish is a very good, economical
alternative to the higher priced epoxy finishes. It is fully water
resistant and contains UV protection (designed to protect exterior
woodwork on boats). It does, however need to fully cure before you start
applying covering adhesives and finishes, or the solvents in the
adhesives etc. will attack the varnish. I believe the varnish should be
allowed to cure for about a month before attempting any covering.
Here's a little practical tip regarding Spar Varnish.
If you use satin finish, it will brush (or spray) on with a wet
look, but cure with a matte finish (not glossy). When you go to do the
next coat, it will be much easier to determine where you have applied
the second coat, and where you have missed. But if you use the high
gloss stuff, it's very difficult to tell what has gotten the second (or
third) coat and what hasn't. If you prefer the look of a glossy finish,
just use the high gloss finish for the final top coat.
Bill C.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matr
onics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List
href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
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Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Questions about nails and varnish |
Think the T-88 people (system3) have a varnish called "clear coat" that is fairly
inexpensive, compatible with T-88 and works with covering. There was quite
a bit of discussion of it on the biplaneforum sight, and they have a construction
manual with a chapter on their suggested stuff.. T-88/clear coat. Might be
something to look at, its at many hobby stores.
Jim
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=177482#177482
Message 9
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| Subject: | Questions about nails and varnish |
Thanks.
Any idea on how much would be needed to do a set of wings?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Phillips,
Jack
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 3:30 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
Brian, the very best varnish available, IMHO, is PolyFiber's Epoxy
Varnish. It is absolutely bulletproof and will not be lifted by their
finishing materials. It ain't cheap, though at about $24 a quart ($60 for
a quart kit, which yields 2.5 quarts of mixed varnish).
Jack Phillips
NX899JP
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Brian Kraut
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 2:15 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
What is a good varnish to use if you are going to be covering very soon
after?
Brian Kraut
Engineering Alternatives, Inc.
www.engalt.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-pietenpol-list-server@matronics.com]On Behalf Of Bill Church
Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:17 PM
To: pietenpol-list@matronics.com
Subject: RE: Pietenpol-List: Questions about nails and varnish
From what I have read, Spar Varnish is a very good, economical
alternative to the higher priced epoxy finishes. It is fully water resistant
and contains UV protection (designed to protect exterior woodwork on boats).
It does, however need to fully cure before you start applying covering
adhesives and finishes, or the solvents in the adhesives etc. will attack
the varnish. I believe the varnish should be allowed to cure for about a
month before attempting any covering.
Here's a little practical tip regarding Spar Varnish.
If you use satin finish, it will brush (or spray) on with a wet look,
but cure with a matte finish (not glossy). When you go to do the next coat,
it will be much easier to determine where you have applied the second coat,
and where you have missed. But if you use the high gloss stuff, it's very
difficult to tell what has gotten the second (or third) coat and what
hasn't. If you prefer the look of a glossy finish, just use the high gloss
finish for the final top coat.
Bill C.
href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-List">http://www.matron
ics.com/Navigator?Pietenpol-Listhref="http://forums.matronics.com">http://fo
rums.matronics.comhref="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.ma
tronics.com/c http://www.matronics.com/contribution
_________________________________________________
This message is for the designated recipient only and may contain
privileged, proprietary
or otherwise private information. If you have received it in error, please
notify the sender
immediately and delete the original. Any other use of the email by you is
prohibited.
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Norsk - Portuguese
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